Paolo's famous walking tour of Siena

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Oct 20th, 1999, 03:29 PM

Jane

Guest

Posts: n/a

Paolo's famous walking tour of Siena

I've read countless raves about Paolo's walking tour of Siena, but I can't find the actual posting which describes an itinerary. Now my curiousity has gotten the best of me! Paolo, if you're out there, what is the best way to see Siena? We'd like to do a day trip from Florence (should we take the bus or train?) and we're going in May. If anyone else can offer insight into the delights of Siena, please pass it on! Thanks, all.

Oct 20th, 1999, 06:08 PM

Jane

Guest

Posts: n/a

PAULO, a thousand apologies for spelling your name wrong!

Oct 22nd, 1999, 04:59 AM

Paulo

Guest

Posts: n/a

There's really not much to it, Jane. A net friend asked me a one-day walking tour suggestion for Siena in the past and I have been mailing a copy of it to the people that have contacted me directly (too lazy to edit it to fit one's specific needs ... sort of, go through it and fit it to your needs yourself

I recommend people visiting Siena on a day tour out of Florence to catch the fast SITA bus (far right corner of the square street as you leave Sta. Maria Novella train station in Florence). This is more convenient than the train because it's faster (1:15 hr) than most available trains and because it leaves you within the city walls in Siena (from the train station to the old city it's an uphill relatively long stroll). Most day trippers to Siena (and to Venice for that matter) rush to the Piazza del Campo (San Marco). IMO this is a mistake. Unless the weather is very bad, the "approch" to both cities should be strolling as much as possible. Once there's no way one will miss both piazze, what's the purpose of rushing there? By doing that, one only accomplishes loosing precious time ... Below, I'm reproducing that old mail ... it's quite long, so I hope that Fodor's will excuse me the waste of bandwidth. For trips on a particular season, one should get informed of monument opening hours (which may change from year to year). Paulo

Oct 22nd, 1999, 05:05 AM

Paulo

Guest

Posts: n/a

__________________________________________________ ________ mailed originally in Feb/98 ... The following itinerary suggestion by no means aims to cover all what there is to see in Siena. Within the city walls there's plenty to visit during at least 3 days (I have a guide that suggests 6 strolling routes). We like to mix a stroll with some sight seeing and visits to the quarters of a specific contrada (its church, its headquarters, hangout bars, etc) and talk to people about their contrada folklore. I tried to pack the best Siena has to offer in a single, pleasant and judicious circuit. It is meant to start anytime in the morning, before 10am, at the San Domenico church, very near the parking lots of the Fortezza Medicea or Stadium and the bus stop. Visiting monuments inside will depend on the total time available. You'll need a map. After a *fast* visit to the barn-like Gothic S. Domenico church, exit and walk along the left side towards the apse, taking the last street to your left (Via Camporegio) into Via Costa di S. Antonio and visit the Casa di S. Caterina. Continue straight on Via della Galluzza till the end. Turn left on Via di Diacceto to Piazza Independenza. Take Via delle Terme towards the Piazza del Campo, and turn right on Via di Citta turning right again on Via dei Pellegrini, into Piazza San Giovanni. Visit the Battistero San Giovanni. On exiting, pass under the portico (unfinished nave) into Piazza del Duomo. Visit the Duomo and its library (and eventually its museum in the unfinished nave) and take a break in one of the cafes in the piazza. Leave the piazza taking Via del Capitano, turning left on Via di Citta. At the height of Vicolo delle Campane turn right, into Piazza del Campo. Leave the Piazza on the right side of the Palazzo Publico and turn left into the Piazza del Mercato. Continue till the end of the piazza, turning left into Via di Salicotto and back to the Piazza del Campo. Visit the Palazzo Publico, its museum and eventually its tower (a kids' must). Leaving the Palazzo turn right till the corner of the Piazza and continue right into Via del Porrione. Take the first left into Via di Pantaneto and first left again on Via Rinaldini back into Piazza del Campo. Leave the Piazza through the Loggia della Mercanzia (facing the Palazzo Publico) into Via di Citta to your right and into Via Banchi di Sopra to your left into Piazza Salimberi, Piazza Matteoti and Viale Curtatone back to the starting line.

Oct 22nd, 1999, 05:07 AM

Paulo

Guest

Posts: n/a

You may consider visiting the Pinacoteca if you feel there's plenty of time (when leaving the Piazza del Duomo on Via del Capitano, cross the Via di Citta into Via di San Pietro). When possible, I like this option better because of the crowds. The Pinacoteca is normaly not crowded, while the Palazzo Publico is (the Palazzo is best visited in the late afternoon). After the visit, retrace your steps back turning right into Via di Citta. Continuing straight on Via di San Pietro into Via Mattioli, you find the Chiesa di Sant'Agostino on your left. Other minor sites are the Palazzo Piccolomini (on Via Banchi di Sotto, just off Piazza del Campo's corner) and the Fortezza Medicea. In the Fortezza there's the Enoteca Italica (open from 3pm till midnight) where you can sit down, have some snacks or diner, and taste/buy wines from all over Italy. There is also an Archeology Museum (we never went, though). Real "musts" in Siena are the Piazza del Campo, the Duomo and the Palazzo Publico. The tall Torre del Mangia (330 ft and 500 steps) is a must for the kids (while you relax in a cafe <g&gt

. Reserve around 3.5 hours for these visits. Rated as "important sites" are the Cathedral Museum (45min), the Pinacoteca (45min) and strolling through Via di Citta and Via Banchi di Sopra (45min), specially in the late afternoon, to see a dozen of beautiful palazzi facades. The rest can be rated as minor sights. Of course, visiting all three collections of the Palazzo Publico, Museo dell'Opera del Duomo and the Pinacoteca is too much for a single day. Between the Museo del Duomo and the Pinacoteca I would stay with the former because part of it is devoted to sculptures (Giovanni Pisano) and because it houses the famous Maesta painting by Duccio. From the top floor you also have a nice view (without having to sweat it out in the Torre del Mangia <g&gt

. I guess you won't have much problems with monument opening hours. Anyways, here it goes (I wouldn't bet my life on it, though <g&gt

: Palazzo Comunale 9:30am to 7:30pm Torre del Mangia 9:30am to 6:30pm Duomo 9:00am to 7:30pm Library 9:00am to 7:00pm Museo dell'Opera 9:00am to 7:30pm Pinacoteca 8:00am to 6:00pm Casa di S. Caterina 9:00am to 12:30pm and 15:30pm to 18:30pm Palazzo Piccolomini 9:00am to 1:00pm Finaly, a word about restaurants. Though there aren't any "first" class restaurants in Siena, we always ate quite well and never repeated the same one (except maybe for a quick snack or sandwich at lunch, a couple of times) I have the impression you could go in just about anywhere and be satisfied. Prices ranged from US$ 40 to US$ 70 (for the two of us, with wine and a meat dish). Last summer, we spent $80 for the 4 of us at dinner and $45 at lunch. All restaurants are close to Piazza del Campo. On the more expensive side: Al Mangia (Piazza del Campo) - we had Bistecca alla Fiorentina Al Marsili (Castoro, just off Piazza Duomo) - Ribollita soup & Boar Le Logge (Porrione, just off il Campo) - Rabbit with cappers On the more economic side: Da Guido (Vic. Pier Pettinaio) - Bistecca (last year dinner) Grotta S. Caterina (Galluzza) - Rabbit Nello la Taverna (Porrione) - Lamb with beans Le Campane (Campane) - ??? probably Bistecca or Bollito di Manzo On the unknown side (listed with the economic ones): Il Biondo (Rustichetto) - were we really there? or was it a tip? On the cheap side: Il Verrocchio (Logge del Papa) - lunch for the 4 of us last summer IMO, the Al Marsili is where we had the best dinner. The Le Logge was surely the prettiest one and also very good. Last year we had references for the La Torre (Salicotto, outside city walls) but it was full when we arrived for dinner and we ended up "discovering" the da Guido. Having time available, going to the Enacoteca is lots of fun (if it's full of people at night - but depending on what you order it may get quite expensive). ____________________________________________ _

Oct 22nd, 1999, 05:24 AM

Carol

Guest

Posts: n/a

Dear Paulo: You are the best! By the way, I'd love to know where you stayed in Siena. And thank you Jane for asking about Paulo's walking tour.

Oct 22nd, 1999, 06:09 AM

Beth

Guest

Posts: n/a

We used Paulo's walking tour and it was great. One suggestion if you drive... though there is parking near the Stadio, its not enough for all the daytrippers. We arrived at 10AM and couldn't park there. We ended up in a big lot on Via Pescioni at the end of the road that leads to the Fontebrandi (sp?) gate. This would be a very long, steep walk into the town. Fortunately there is a bus that runs from the parking lot, up that street into the center of town. If you walk partway down the road toward the gate there is a tabachi on the left which will sell bus tickets. Its a very easy place to find, and the parking lot was large and mostly empty.

Oct 22nd, 1999, 06:20 AM

Paulo

Guest

Posts: n/a

I guess you wouldn't want to hear about the places I have stayed when I was still single

After marrying, we once stayed in a classy hotel (relais & chateaux chain) outside town (25 min driving) which may be an option on occasions ... Within the city walls we stayed once at the *** Duomo. Nicely located but kind of awkward if you have a car (you have to have the hotel reservation fax in hand for the police to allow you to drive to the hotel, parking difficulties, etc). We then switched to the *** Chiusarelli and have sticked to it since. Not as central as the Duomo but more confortable, nice little garden, a good restaurant (tough filled with tour groups at times) if you need one on the run, cheaper and very convenient if you have a car (hotel itself has a small parking lot and if that's filled, there are public parking lots nearby (Stadium and Fortezza Medicea). It's about 150 meters from the bus stop, therefore very convenient for those who intend to tour Tuscany using this mode of transportation. Finally, it appears that they now also have a/c in all rooms (and rates have not risen substantially from what we payed the last time up - summer 1997). Bookings may be done on line. http://web.tin.it/chiusarelli/ Paulo

Oct 22nd, 1999, 06:21 AM

Paulo

Guest

Posts: n/a

I guess you wouldn't want to hear about the places I've stayed when I still was single, Carol

Oct 24th, 1999, 05:53 PM

#10

Jane

Guest

Posts: n/a

Paulo, Thanks so much for the insider's guide to Siena! it covers everything I wanted to know and I especially appreciate your restaurant suggestions. I've also printed out your comments regarding the Gothic v. Renaissance in Siena, so I feel well prepared to make the most of this visit! Jane

Oct 25th, 1999, 05:37 AM

#11

Carol

Guest

Posts: n/a

Paulo--molte grazie!!

Aug 11th, 2000, 03:42 AM

#12

helping

Guest

Posts: n/a

To the top for Jan.

Aug 21st, 2000, 05:50 PM

#13

jan

Guest

Posts: n/a

Message - Paulo -- a thousand thanks for your help with the walking tour of Siena. - jan

Aug 21st, 2000, 06:01 PM

#14

andy

Guest

Posts: n/a

Just to clarify something. I believe that despite all the great advice Paulo gives, if you look at his email address, he is in Brazil. Also, if he were truly Italian, I believe his name would be Paolo for I don't know any Paulos in Italy. Just so everyone knows where this guy is coming from. Good advice,but Paulo, are you a native Italian???

Aug 21st, 2000, 06:08 PM

#15

kam

Guest

Posts: n/a

Paulo, I'm disappointed that you don't tell folks what the main attraction in the San Domenico Church is. Most Americans don't believe that it's real!

Aug 22nd, 2000, 04:00 AM

#16

Lenore

Guest

Posts: n/a

This message is for Andy!!! I'm sure many of us are aware Paulo spells his name Paulo instead of Paolo and maybe even thought about where he's located since he knows, down to the nitty gritty, details about Italy...but you know what? No one thought it important enough to ask. You know why? Because...who gives a hoot!!! What does it matter whether he's a native Italian or not? What was the significance in pointing this out? '...this guy'???? The amount of time, effort, and invaluable information he has given to many many of us, unconditionally, far outweighs how he spells his name or where he's from. His advice, friendship and caring is highly regarded and respected on this Forum and warrants the courtesy in addressing him by his name, rather than 'this guy'. I would trade 10 'Andy's' for one 'Paulo' any time and, in my opinion, you were very rude. Shame, Shame. Lenore Ps. We know where Paulo is coming from. Where are "YOU" coming from?

Aug 22nd, 2000, 04:17 AM

#17

Paulo

Guest

Posts: n/a

Andy: I've a birth certificate that says I was born in Brazil, named Paulo, and another one that I was born in Italy, named Paolo ... take your pick

Kam: For me,, San Domenico's Basilica main attraction is the 14th century fresco of St Catherine of Siena by Andrea Vanni in the Capella delle Volti. This is supposed to be her true portrait (Vanni was her contemporary). But the reliquary displays her head and one of her fingers ... if that's what you mean! Paulo

Aug 22nd, 2000, 11:19 AM

#18

kam

Guest

Posts: n/a

Paulo, It is exactly what I meant and, as I said, so many Americans can't believe that it's the real thing! I must say, I've never noticed the finger though.