Great start! Can't wait for the rest of it I too moved in 10th grade, so can relate...although we didn't move anywhere near as interesting, lol!

gruezi, I love mother-daughter trip reports, and yours is one I am anxiously looking forward to reading.

What a lucky girl your daughter is to have such a special birthday weekend. I can tell from your post how lovingly you planned the trip.

Please continue!!

Wonderful report! Looking forward to reading more. Your daughter has one terrific mom.

as for the Bold and italics and underline -- without any spaces, type < B > before, and < /B > after what you want BOLD,

Or (again w/o spaces) < i > < /i > for italic, or < u> </u > for underline, or < red> < / red > for red
and so on

Gruezi gruezi This is a lovely report you've written. I am so jealous that you can just hop on over to Paris for a weekend jaunt!

I love your daughter's enthusiasm! I remember taking my children when they had just finished taking an art history class in high school. They, too, were amazed at seeing "the real deal."

I'll be right here waiting for the next installment!

Oh, and to help out with bold and italics, it's easy.

You use the < then an i for italic or b for bold, then >

Then you type your text.

To discontinue the bold or italic, use < then / then the i or b and then the final >

Wonderful so far. I am taking my 17 yo to Paris and Rome for her high school graduation. I can't wait to read more.

I'm looking forward to reading this! We have three nights coming up in Paris, for my 16-year-old daughter and me. We also went last year, and it was mostly good, but I know she felt Paris a little more "difficult" than some other cities she's visited. This was both in terms of the language (she wanted to speak only French there and it was tough), and the size of Paris. Nonetheless, she chose Paris to revisit (or actually we mutually agreed to return to Paris and she was happy with it). I can imagine that an expat teenage girl like your daughter might find some aspects of being away from her home country quite difficult, no matter how great the opportunity is.

Wonderful report. Can't wait to read more.

gruezi - You have done a sterling job on your report so far.....nothing to fear from us fellow Fodorites!

Yes, it was a pity about your first resto choice and I was a little surprised you did not know about the Louvre Food Court - this would have been perfect for you, but now you know for next time!

Looking forward to more soon.

As a fellow mother-daughter traveler, I must say I love your trip report. Anxiously awaiting your next installment.

As a mother with young sons, and no plans to ever end up with a teenage daughter thanks for letting me eavesdrop into your world... I'm really enjoying your style and detail/anecdote/feelings blend!

Dear Fodor friends,

Thank you so very much for your many positive comments on my report. You inspire me to carry on.

Thanks for helping me on the type formatting question - I'm going to try it the next post.

It has been really nice "reliving" our weekend through the words I've written here. It was a very special time for us, and I appreciate your kind words as I share with you. Those with daughters, or mothers!, know that these relationships are complex and require lots of attention and care. Well, I think so anyway. But so worth it, too...

gruezi

Notre Dame

After we left the Louvre on a cloud of excitement, we still had a few hours until dinner so we took a walk toward Notre Dame and Ste. Chapelle. My daughter had recently studied both churches in her art history class and was anxious to get a look. It was a pretty quick walk to ND and we walked in and looked about. It was full of tourists, but still reasonably quiet and sacred-feeling. We looked about a bit, and my daughter explained the period of the church to me as well as what the proper name was for the various windows and the vaulted ceiling. I smile because I am so happy for her that she has had the opportunity to study art history while she is living in Europe. She is pretty mature and actually does “get” how amazing and special this is.

After about 3 or 4 minutes gazing about the interior of ND, we kind of looked at each other like “well, what should we do now?” I think we were missing the wonderful commentary of our Louvre tour guide and I hadn’t really brought a good enough guidebook for self-exploring churches and museums. Plus, I guess I should mention we have been inside a lot of churches in the past year since we arrived in Europe, so maybe the grandeur was starting to lose its power over us.

So, for lack of a better plan, I said, “let’s have a seat” which we did. Well, we are Catholic (sort of) but not currently practicing, so it felt a little fake to kneel and say a prayer or light a candle like I would have done years ago. On the other hand, we were in one of the world’s most famous churches so we felt we should be in some kind of spiritual state. Don’t get me wrong, this is an impressive building, but we just didn’t feel much of anything at that moment.

After a quiet minute or two (where I said my own kind of mother’s prayer for a good weekend and health and happiness for my daughter) I said, “you want to go?” “yup!” and so we did. Don’t worry – more positive observations on ND later…

We had a little powow outside ND and decided that since we were in the neighborhood, we should go see Ste. Chapelle. Just as we got there, they were putting up signs announcing their early closure due to the transit strike, so we couldn’t go in. Probably just as well, as we were maybe just a bit too church-jaded at the moment.

What next? We had a 7:30 dinner reservation and we were getting tired, so it was time to head back to our hotel, have tea, get settled, showered and ready for our first night in this magnificent city.

We walked back to Hotel D’Aubusson and before we were shown to our room stopped in the parlor for our complimentary tea. The parlor has a large fireplace and a very small fire was burning. We waited and waited for someone to serve tea and eventually someone did bring tea, hot chocolte, and a couple of cookies. We both noticed the parlor furniture was really soiled, so I was getting a bit nervous about the quality of the room. Eventually, we headed up to room 405 (I think) which was a bit dark and just shy of dingy, but clean, spacious and with a large bathroom complete with a huge selection of Hermes amenities. There was a basket of fruit and note welcoming us. I was hoping for something a bit more charming, so was a bit let down, but my wiser daughter kept saying, “mom, it’s fine – we’re going to have a great time and we’re only sleeping here anyway…” She’s so smart. But I will confess here that part of me kept thinking “so this is what $500 gets you in Paris…” We unpacked a bit, showered and got ready for dinner.

Dinner at Les Ombres with Views of the Twinkling Eiffel Tower

I always think when you travel somewhere new, the first day can really set the tone. So I really wanted to dine someplace special the first night out. I had carefully researched restaurants with a view of the Eiffel Tower and had finally decided on Les Ombres. The HD concierge had reserved a few days prior for us and placed a written confirmation in our room. (They made a point of doing this for everything we asked for help on, and I must say they were the most pleasant and thorough concierge team I’ve experienced so far in a European city.) From what I later learned, I think the reason we were able to get this reservation with very short notice was because of the transit strike keeping lots of Parisians and tourists home. There is a silver lining to every cloud!

On the way out to dinner, the concierge told me they had called the airline to locate my bag – I had not asked them to do this! – and that they were still working on it being delivered. Well, I think that is really good service! I started getting ready to spread some love with my euros…

So, we set off on foot toward the Musee D’Orsay and Les Ombres and after a 15 or 20 minute walk arrived at the museum only to find neither a restaurant sign nor an unlocked entrance. We finally located an entrance for a restaurant around the block and in our very poor French said we had a reservation at the museum restaurant. We were told that the restaurant had a private party that night. “You mean you cannot honor our reservation?” “non”… all communicated in very polite tones with dramatic hand gestures. “Parlez vous Anglais?” “non”…. “Sprechen Sie Deutsch?” “Ja, ein bisschen”… So in my really bad German I explained our situation, they very generously called our hotel concierge who explained to them in French that we were to be at Les Ombres at the Musee du Quai Branly not the Musee D’Orsay, which they explained to us and then directed us to where we might find a cab although they didn’t seem too hopeful that we actually would. They were extremely gracious and we merci’d them to death…and as we headed to find a cab talked about how helpful, courteous and nice all the French had been to us so far, and how we don’t understand why they get such a bum rap…

Well, by now we were already late for our reservation, had very tired feet, were a little cold, tired and hungry. The type A in me was getting worried because if this was like NYC I imagined they would give up our restaurant reservation if we were more than 15 or 20 minutes too late. I called the hotel concierge and asked them to phone ahead to the restaurant for us and let them know we definitely were coming, but we’d be a bit longer.

We headed in the general direction of the Musee du Quai Branly, all the while looking for a cab. My daughter was quite proud when she pounced on a cab just as it let another party out. I handed over the address and we were dropped off in less than 10 minutes. But, again, no sign for the restaurant and all the museum doors were locked! The museum grounds were actually all lit up with some type of garden light exhibit and looked very cool but not a single solitary sole was in sight. By now I am getting frustrated, and trying to keep my cool, but sort of tired of the whole quest. Wise daughter, “mom, WE’RE IN PARIS!!! Don’t worry, it will be fine.” And, well you know, she was right. (Again.)

Finally found the entrance, headed upstairs by elevator, shown to a very nice table with a very up close and personal view of the Eiffel tower that had just begun its hourly 10 minute twinkling just for our grand entrance. Pure magic. Ordered champagne and toasted to ourselves, our trip, and, of course, to Paris.

A lovely dinner followed – sorry I just don’t remember what I ate (big Fodor demerit to me!) - with friendly, English-speaking service. We sat for the next hourly Eiffel twinkling and my daughter went out on the terrace and took 10 billion photos.

I think with 2 glasses of champagne, appetizers and entrée, but no dessert or coffee it came to 140 Euros. I’m pretty spoiled about food I think, and probably a bit picky, so I thought the food was very good but not unbelievable. I think my daughter felt the same way. It was worth it to us for the view alone which I can’t imagine being any better. The restaurant was never more than ½ full all evening and I attribute this to the strike as I had read these were “the hottest tables in town” ….Yes, really, but I can’t remember where I read that…

After dinner we walked over to the Eiffel Tower and there was just about no one there – no lines at all – although the cars up were still running. We had this wonder to ourselves and we felt so lucky.

Another confession…I don’t love heights, but I used to go up the WTC and the Empire State building so I hadn’t really made a decision about the ET, but now that I was there I just could absolutely not imagine going up there at all, but I didn’t want to say that.

I had never actually been right under the Eiffel Tower during my first trip to Paris and the architecture really took my breath away. My daughter was as in awe as I was. “Do you want to go up, sweetie?” “I don’t know Mom, what do you think?” “If you want to go I’ll go with you” “I don’t know Mom – maybe tomorrow?” “Okay, no problem” Phewwww… that was a close one. No way did I want to go up there!!

Later, “do you think we’ll go up this weekend?” “I don’t know Mom, that was a lot scarier looking than I expected…” “Okay, we’ll see.” “Maybe when we come back to Paris with Dad and sister” Phewwww… sounds good to me… I know her sister does not like heights and definitely would not go up there either. She’ll have to go with her Dad.

Took about 10 billion more pictures of ourselves under the Tower, smiled and laughed a ton, stood on benches to get better shots, etc. etc. We were pretty impressed.
(Note about the heights… Well, all weekend I thought about getting up the “noive” to go up that tower but I just couldn’t see myself doing it. I’ve been working on my heights thing a lot and have made some progress and maybe someday I will be brave enough. I hope so…)

We were just too over the moon to head back to the hotel so we walked back along the Seine watching the many boat cruises and talking about our day, our plans for the next few days, life, her future, our move to Switzerland, friends back home, and on and on….

Back at the hotel the jazz bar was in full bloom, “do you want to sit for a while?” “No, Mom, I’m really tired. Is it okay if we go to bed?” “Yup”

Good news from the concierge… Your bag has been delivered and is in your room! Hurrah!

Oh, my! the Hotel D’Aubusson does a really beautiful turndown service with a nice note, a sweet treat, the weather report for morning and the most absolutely wonderful linens. HD was starting to grow on me.

Daughter rang for the wakeup call, read a few pages of the Da Vinci Code she had bought at the airport, and fell fast asleep. I did my last look over of tomorrow’s plans and went off to sleep. And visions of a twinkling tower danced in our heads…

Up Next: D’Orsay, Galleries Lafayette, Laduree, and PMS

I don't know why the edit function is not working for me... This was supposed to come after the ET...


"Mom, I just can't believe anyone would say Paris is a letdown!"

"Me neither it was love at first sight for me."

"I really love it here too - it's way better than I even thought"

"Really?"

"really, mom."


Phewwww.... my work is done, and my heart is full...

gruezi--Your report really makes me smile. Last summer DD (16), myself and my mother went to France. My mother had never been overseas before. So I can relate about how mother/daughter trips can be Very good, but you never quite know. BTW, we celebrated my mothers bday at the ET and had dinner up there. If you get the chance, definitely go all the way up. I don't care for heights either, but for some reason that didn't bother me.

What a great trip report! I would have loved to have gone to Europe with my mother when I was in high school. I did take two mother/daughter trips with my mom after college and loved both. The one to paris was particularly special. Now that I have a baby, not sure when we'll do it again as mom is my #1 babysitter to help out my husband when I'm away. Can't wait to finish the rest of the report. Your daughter sounds wonderful too.

Am loving your report, greuzi!

I have fantastic memories of 2 trips taken with my sister and adult parents driving through Europe for 6-8 wks. That was almost 30 years ago and we still talk and laugh about it...even the yucky moments have become favorites.

In hopes that our two sons will feel the same, my husband and I are foregoing our usual September ramble and have to resort to August travel -ugh-due to university constraints. But we feel the family experiece will far outweigh the inconveniences.

Continuez, svp!

" I started getting ready to spread some love with my euros."

Your trip sounds absolutely charming, gruezi. Your daughter sounds like a delightful teenager, so patient and grateful for this opportunity to travel with mother.

I've been to Paris 4 times before, and am going again in April, and this is one of those trip reports that just gets me all excited for that trip. Your enthusiasm is actually palpable. Thank you for sharing!

Great trip report. Thanks for sharing your lovely time...

Still enjoying your report, gruezi! Can't wait to read the rest. Thanks again for sharing.

Thanks for the report!

Thanks everyone for sharing your thoughts and for reading this trip report. It sure is fun talking about Paris isn't it?

I'm enjoying reading about your travel plans too...

I'll get my next installment up in a few days...

I had to check in with my daughter to remember exactly what we did on day two - thank God someone's memory is still working

So next up is D'Orsay, shopping at GL, Sacre Coer, and Saturday night PJ party...

gruezi

Gruezi,

Your mother-daughter trip sounds like a dream. I can't wait to hear more.

Thanks so much for sharing.

dina

Your trip report was fantastic. We will be in Paris for six nights this March with our 15 year old daughter and will use this for recommendations for restaurants, etc.

We have booked the Loft/Duplex at the Hotel D'Aubusson and were lucky enough to stay there last December for one night.

It sounds as if you were skeptical about the hotel at first, but came around- if you were to return, would you stay there again?

Hi gruezi,

Great report, I really am enjoying this! It is so touching to me the love and care you have for your daughter.

BTW, I, too, have height issues but somehow found myself on that vader, eyes focused on the floor, up to the second level...could not, would not do the third! Oy, the second level was enough for me and while I'm glad I did it, it was not without discomfort.

Anyway, your report finds me longing to return--I look forward to reading more!

gruezi--really enjoying your trip report. It has all the details it needs.

We have been to Italy once with the kids and I really hope to go back to Europe with them at least once more before they're off to college. Your trip report just reminds me of all those reasons why.

Still here! Anxiously awaiting the rest of your report.

Cool report! As a daughter who travels the world with her mom, I found your trip to be adorable.

I know I love my trips with my mom. It's all I look forward to each year, as she is my favorite travel companion.

Looking forward to reading more!

gruezi, what a fun, touching trip report! we just returned from london, rome, and paris a few weeks back and i'm still unpacking, not to mention needing to get my photos and trip report in order, but yours makes me want to write to my mom right now and demand a mother-daughter trip!!! (We've never done anything like it before.)

Cheers, and keep it coming!!

- raspberry

ps, the French were wonderful with us, too, and we share your sentiments!

Gruezi - I am loving your report! I took my oldest daughter to England, France and Italy 3 years ago and this year is my youngest daughters turn. She is going to college in the fall also, and life is about to take a major change. I totally understand the sentimental mother stuff - I'm constantly aware that this is the last year to watch her play basketball, no more parent teacher conferences, no more after school conversations at the kitchen counter discussing her day... I know it's the natural progression but you can't help your heart breaking just a bit now and then. It all went so fast.

Can't wait to read more.

Sunnyflorida - when are you traveling this year? We leave 6/13 and come home 6/30.

I'm really enjoying your report, although you guys are making me sad that my oldest son will be going to college in 3 years!

Gruezi, really nice report although I read the first part late. Apparently, I am not late for the rest of it.

It is always interesting, when you live in a city like Paris, to see how people react to it. I see the Eiffel Tower every day, from my office. From a distance, it just seems abstract to me. But when I am next to it or under it, the wow factor is still there.

Thanks to all of you who have stopped by to read my report. I am determined to get the next installment in very soon.

I have been busy helping my daughter get ready for a whirlwind trip home to the US to look at colleges. This college trip is a little more stressful than the Paris one and very time consuming in the planning, but we leave the day after tomorrow and are almost set.

I will get to the rest of our weekend very soon.

Thanks for sharing your thoughts and experiences with me.

Kerouac - isn't it wonderful when some things still thrill us no matter how many times we see them? Everyday, when I see the lake and mountains here in Zurich, they look just a little bit different. Sometimes the lake is choppy and the sky blue but only a glimpse of the Alps can be seen. Other days, like today, the sky and lake are gray, but the Alps dramatic snowy peaks jump right out at you. I already know how much I'll miss this scenery when it's time to move back home.

Thanks again everyone for letting me share.

gruezi

Musee d'Orsay

The next morning we were up early so that we'd be in the beginning of the line at the Musee d'Orsay. First we had breakfast at the Hotel D'Aubusson. There was quite a variety of breakfast foods including eggs, fruit, cheese and pastries and all were attractively displayed. The breakfast room is a bit gloomy but that just follows on my theme of the hotel not getting much light.

I had been telling my daughter for about a gazillion years that she hadn't really tasted a croissant until she'd had one in France. So, finally the big moment and, oh well, bit of a letdown moment. The croissants were the mini ones and not really all that special. So, we drank our tea, vowed to buy a croissant later, and headed out to walk to the Musee D'Orsay.

When we arrived the museum was opening a bit late due to the strike so we waited in line and chatted with an elderly woman from Indianapolis and her adult son who seemed to be living in Paris. She shared that she "just didn't get all this art" and I had to smile because her son seemed so into taking mom to all these special museums... I felt lucky my daughter and I had each other.

We waited a while in the cold and finally got into the museum. We did get the audio guide as we both like to listen to a little overview of what we're seeing.

The inside of the Musee d'Osay is rather breathtaking. It is a converted train station so the dimensions are very grand. Again I was surprised at how much I liked the building itself before even looking at any art.

I had heard the museum gets very crowded and to head up to the 3rd and 4th floor first so that's what we did. It was a bit confusing knowing just where to start as this is quite a large museum. At the top floor there is a long glass paneled floor that cuts across from one wing to the other. Well, I have a bit of a thing about heights, and I absolutely hate walking on glass floors so I sent my daughter along to see if that wing was "worth it" for me to brave the trip across. She disappeared for a while and then reappeared giving me the thumbs up to head on over. As I hesitated a bit a nice young man noticed me, laughed a bit and directed me to a solid floor that went across. Lots of eye rolling from my daughter about my little "issue".

Once in the wing, we couldn't figure out how to get our audios to line up with the paintings we were seeing - finally someone helped us out.

Let me confess right here to a life-long love of everything Impressionist. I was pretty overwhelmed by this wealth of artistic riches. It was a bit difficult to know where to look. I had planned we spend the morning here and then head to Galleries Lafayette for some shopping but I quickly realized this museum requires a lot more than a morning. But it was so hard not to try see it all...Renoir, Gaugin, Monet, Degas etc. etc. Hard to really even imagine so much beauty all in one place.

My daughter was visibly less enthralled. I guess she hasn't yet studied this period in her art history class and just didn't feel connected to the art in any way. I tried to steer her to what she "should" see and funnily she really loved Renoir which isn't my favorite but I was glad she was enjoying something.

We worked our way through a few wings and floors and then saw the Degas statues which I had never seen before. We were both taken with a young dancer with a very primitive face... absolutely entrancing to see.

And then, just around another bend who did I see but the very famous "Whistler's Mother"... Stopped me dead in my tracks. I can't explain how amazing it was to see something I've heard about and read about and seen small pictures of my whole life and now I was finally right up close and personal to it. For me, I guess this was the highlight of the morning.

Well, my daughter was getting a bit weary-looking after about 2 hours of my oohing and ahhhing and so we took a lunch break. We ate at the beautiful cafe in the museum. I love how European museums always have a pleasant spot for coffee or something to eat and this one was indeed perfect.

I ordered a salad and my daughter had steak frites which is basically her favorite meal anytime, anywhere. I know, I know we could have eaten a ton of other, better places but here we were and that's what she wanted... Anyway, not so great as you've probably already guessed but again the company and atmosphere was wonderful.

After lunch and a rest we went to the first floor and spent time with the sculptures. Lots of Rodin here - another favorite of mine - and my daughter connected much better with this floor.

She confided her taste in art is a bit "weird" and that her art history teacher didn't think she'd be too excited by the Musee d'Orsay... I think her taste is just a bit more developed than mine since she has a much better education that way than I do. Nonetheless, she was a trooper and I got to see a lifetime's worth of Impressionists. I will go back here again I know...

Time to head to Galleries Lafayette for some shopping. Our feet are tired from the museum so we queue up for a cab and after about 20 minutes have success.

So glad that you are still writing! We had planned to go back to Italy in a year, but now DD says she wants to go back to France. So we are already planning that trip, just she and I. So your report has me anxiously awaiting it!

So sorry I've not been able to finish this report! We've been traveling a lot and just took a marathon college visit trip to the US with this same daughter. That's another trip report in itself! I just found out I'm taking my 13-year-old to Paris in a few weeks (for our birthdays) so I joyfully have Paris back in my head and heart again. I hear there is a GTG there the weekend we visit, so hopefully we'll get to meet some fodorites. Here is a second to last installment of Paris with daughter #1.

Shopping, Perfume and Tea

We took a cab to Galleries Lafayette. The Christmas tree was already up inside and it was huge and breathtaking.

The store itself was big and overwhelming as department stores go, (okay, I confess right now that I hate shopping but my daughter lives for it, so bear with me). With our USD there wasn't much that made sense to buy. We play a little game with ourselves where we convert Euros to Swiss Francs and then back to USD trying to get to a number that feels better, but the truth is, shopping in Europe is just too darn expensive to be a lot of fun.

We did get to the Zara dept. and my daughter bought two little tops for herself and her sister that were "reasonable" and then we headed to the perfume department. She had it in her mind to chose a signature scent for herself, and thought Paris was the perfect place to do it. Her dad had given her some spending money, and I agreed perfume was a good choice too as it was something she'd have for a while to remind her of her trip and it fit into her budget and her suitcase. She also had an interest in "french underwear" but her mom was just not ready to go there...Oy!

Well, we had a ball going from counter to counter and collected a fistful of little perfume papers. The decision was tough. Did I mention she is a Libra? Every decision is tough for her She finally chose an American perfume - Calvin Klein Euphoria - and I must say it smelled great on her. She made her purchase and spent the rest of the weekend alternating between telling me how great she smelled and asking me if I thought she smelled great.... She is a funny kid. And she smells great still every morning on the way to school...Sure hope it fades by the time she gets there

After the successful perfume purchase, we headed to Laduree, a tea shop recommended by her teacher. We didn't know there are two Ladurees in Paris, one near the big dept. stores and the other in the 6th. I guess we went to the "wrong" one. Anyway, it was jammed packed with Saturday shoppers - some buying the macaroons it's famous for for take home and others waiting for a table. It was push and shove, and finally when we got a table, people obnoxiously hovering over us as we ate. The first 2 pastries we ordered were sold out so we settled for our third choices. The interior of the shop is really charming, and the people watching was great, but it was not relaxing and we didn't feel the need to ever go back again.

We walked back toward the 6th and by the time we got there it was dark and getting toward dinner time. We were pretty exhausted and my wild and crazy daughter said, "Mom, how bad would it be to just get some sandwiches and head back to our room for the night and read our books?" Well, okay, she'll probably have other Saturday nights in Paris but I don't know about myself!! "Is that what you'd really like to do?" "Yup!"

We stopped at a little grocery and picked up some water bottles and prepared sandwiches. As we walked back to the hotel I looked longingly at all the charming cafes in the very charming neighborhood but reminded myself this was her trip...

On the walk back, I thought about Ira of Fodor Fame, as we passed his much touted Hotel Bonaparte - fantastic location BTW - and we also passed the other Laduree which we peaked inside of and saw that it was charming and civilized.

The jazz band was in full swing when we returned to Hotel D'Aubusson.

"Do you want to have a drink and listen to some music since they don't play tomorrow?"

"Maybe later, Mom."

Okay, back in our room I devoured the surprisingly good market sandwiches and then my daughter decided we needed some chips and junk food. She went back out in her sweats and returned with a bag of pastries and a few cans of pringles and some soda.

"Oh my gosh, mom, I must look so menstrual right now!"

Well, I'd never heard that expression before but actually, yes, she did. We had a good laugh and then munched away and read our books. I made her swear never to tell anyone this is how we spent our Saturday night in Paris!!! Well, now you know our little secret...shhhh!!

Later that night we had a heart-to-heart wherein she shared details about her latest crush on a "bad boy" senior at her high school. Well, she shared a lot more than usual, and I realized that it's true that teenagers really need to be ready to talk, and that as parents we have to listen without judgment sometimes. (She is now dating that boy and I'm glad she told me all about him up front - good lesson for both of us.)

I also realized that our night "in" turned out to be really special even if the food was not what I was envisioning for a Saturday night in Paris. Sometimes it's all about the bonding. Anyway, by now I realized I would definitely be back in Paris again some time soon. I just love this city.

Well, we planned our Sunday itinerary and put in for a wakeup call. I love that she is game for another day of art and walking and doesn't complain that we have to get up early to do everything we want to do. After Rodin, top on her list is a visit to the "right" Laduree in the 6th. Lights out and to sleep on the wonderful Hotel d'Aubusson linens.

Next: Rodin, Laduree, Sacre Coeur

Thanks for listening...

gruezi

Thanks for updating! Very sweet that you got to bond.

Actually there are 4 Ladurée locations in Paris (the others are on rue Royale and on the Champs Elysées) - alos 2 in London, 1 in Berlin, 1 in Monaco, 1 in Geneva and 1 in Lausanne. The totally fake décor of Ladurée cracks me up, especially the one on the Champs Elysées -- it used to be the Japan Airlines agency in pure 1970's style.

www.laduree.fr

Hi gruzi! Wonderful report! I hope to see you on the bike ride Monday night, March 24 in Paris. Are you and your daughter planning on the Mikes Fat Tire Bike ride?

Hi Gruezi

Since you are living in Zurich and very close to France - you should go to the beautiful French castle
Hattonchatel Chateau owned by www.ritz-resorts.com
We have just been invited to a wedding there.

Slot

I'm really enjoying your report. I've had a couple of those mother-daughter trips to Paris, and I loved your description of your Saturday night bonding in the hotel. Three stars, vaut le voyage.

Thanks for your charming report. I am planning a trip with my daughter (who will be 18) for next summer and am hoping for an experience such as yours. You've been an inspiration!

Melissa

bmark

What a wonderful post...I can't wait to read more. This sounds like a great mother-daughter trip.

Hi gruezi-- your report is delightful and your daughter sounds adorable and fun to travel with. My daughter is my favorite travel companion and I love reading about mother-daughter trips.

Can't wait for more-- thanks!

Gruezi,
Thanks for posting this delightful trip report. Reminds me of the first time we took DD to Paris. These kinds are trips are forever etched into both your hearts!

gruezi, Again, I loved, loved reading your report. What an awesome daughter you have, and she is lucky to have such a great mom. May the two of you enjoy many more special times together.

And yes, we'd love to read a trip report of your U.S. college visit trip. Just be sure to alert us here so we can jump over to the U.S. board.

Well, Bon Jour! and thanks everyone for sticking with me on this report. In my head I have a ton of trip reports as we've been really trying to see a lot of Europe while everything is so close. It's great to share and someday I know I'll be glad I recorded these special times.

If it interests anyone, I chaperoned my other daughter's trip to Morocco for a music festival last week and I'll be posting the first part of that report on the Africa board this week as well. It was a really fascinating (and educational!!) trip but the report is a bit more factual than this one - although it was some good M/D bonding as well.

Kerouac - Guess we have a few more Laduree's to try! Our second experience was much better as you'll see...Our family has a long history of loving tea, hot chocolate and pastry. My poor husband even enjoys it now after living with 3 females for so long. I've read (perhaps from you?) that Plaza Athenee has a lovely tea and I plan to take my other daughter there on our trip at the end of March.

Slot - I will look into that castle - my younger daughter loves that sort of thing. Enjoy the wedding!

Nikki - thanks for reading the whole thing! I think I won't see you on the 24th unless the weather looks bad, as the bike tour sounds better for my daughter. Wish I could do both.

Images - I'm going to see what the weather is, and if it's not too cold aim for the bike ride on the 24th. Wish I could meet all the Fodorites, but I think the bike ride will be more my daughter's speed. I have read great things about that tour here on Fodor's before. Do you plan to visit the Louvre? Will you use a guide? I used Paris Muse last time, and am tempted to again, except for the cost. The dollar falling again is really making things expensive.

Lucy - I know I should write up the college visit trip. I will let you know when I do. It was a real eye-opening week and also very interesting. We went from Boston to Philly in 8 days and saw about 14 schools. We visited a number of the Ivies (although I don't know if my daughter can get in to any of them!) but it was definitely cool to see those campuses and meet some of the students. We learned one very important lesson - you really have to visit the campus when school is in session to know if it's the right place for you....We loved some places we didn't expect to, and hated some places we expected to love!

So, today I will finish the final post of this trip.

gruezi

Great report -- what a wonderful experience for your both. I'm really looking forward to the rest of it... and your college trip report...and your Morocco report. We're a demanding bunch aren't we?

KT-

Thank you because I really need the pressure!! I wish I had started writing about all these travels last year when we got here. People kept telling me to keep a journal and I'm really mad I didn't listen.

I am determined to start jotting down all these experiences at least here on Fodor's. I've been writing in a long Word document for myself and then cutting and pasting onto Fodor's. It's not polished writing, but at least it's a record.

Today's goal is to finish this report and put the first section of Morocco up. I want to start the college report soon, because I think I'll forget that one the fastest as most of it was what went on in our heads and the conversations in the car as we drove from city to city.

gruezi

Musee Rodin

Next morning we were up early, quick breakfast, and ready to walk to the Musee Rodin. It was a cloudy, brisk day so we bundled up for the 20 minute walk through the quiet Sunday morning streets of the 6th.

It would have been nice to have some sunshine as a special part of the Rodin exhibit is in the gardens surrounding this museum. But, despite the weather, we had a stroll in the gardens and saw the very famous “Gates of Hell”, “Burghers of Calais” and “The Thinker” as well as some other studies and sculptures. I loved getting right next to “The Thinker” and really getting a good look at this masterpiece. We took a ton of photos.

Then we went inside to warm up and see the rest of this beautiful collection. Rodin spent the last nine years of his life living in the Hotel Biron and that is the building in the center of the gardens that now houses this impressive collection of his work as well as some pieces of his own art collection including works by Van Gogh and Monet. There is also a full room of works by his muse, and sometimes model, Camille Claudel.

(From the gardens and second level of the building there is also a nice view to the Hotel Invalides, which we did not visit this trip, but it intrigued my daughter and she took some photos…)

We rented the audio at the Rodin, as is our way, and spent a few hours there. I love sculpture, and my daughter loves history and there was much for both of us to enjoy. There was an interesting display about how the bronze casts are made, which I really liked although the process is quite complex and a bit confusing to grasp.

We really loved this museum. The size is very manageable for a younger audience or for the less art-inclined, and there is something there for everyone be it the gardens, the architecture, the history or the art. I will definitely return there again.

We stopped in the gift shop where my daughter insisted on buying me a little momento of this visit. “Mom, you’ve been talking about Rodin forever, you have to get something…” We could afford a bookmark of “The Thinker” and she treated me to it. She’s so sweet

Today’s Lesson: Don’t be Judgmental!

After that, we were a bit cold and tired and my daughter insisted we head to the “right” Laduree for lunch and hot chocolate. We walked back over to that neighborhood and at Laduree were shown to a table upstairs in a beautiful parlor filled with blue settees and little café tables. I love blue, and the room was very charming and cozy and just what we were in the mood for.

On arrival, we had the place to ourselves, but soon after two tall, blonde, attractive young women arrived and despite the many empty tables, insisted on having the one right next to us. Well, my daughter and I shared what my kids call “eye talk” – it’s when you look at each other knowing just what the other is thinking without saying a word. In this case, the eye talk translated to, “why the hell don’t they sit somewhere else when the whole place is empty??!!”

Well, we ordered lunch and warm drinks and chatted a bit and tried to figure out what language the two girls right next to us spoke. We just couldn’t place it. Occasionally it was sprinkled with some English and a little French but they were clearly “something else”. They ordered some amazing looking pastry and so I asked them what it was and if they liked it, and we suddenly had two new best friends. They were from Greece, which we had visited the month before, so we had a lot to talk about – in English of course. They were lovely, and one worked for a private jet company in Paris and the other was visiting for the week and they shared their adventures in Paris with us and we talked about life in Europe, American politics, good food, Switzerland, etc. etc.

After my daughter and I left Laduree, she wisely said, “You see Mom, we shouldn’t make such quick judgments about people, because they turned out to be really nice. You know, that is one thing I have really learned with this whole ‘move to Europe’ thing.” Well, she is absolutely right and what a good lesson she has learned. I need to remember that more often too!

BTW, we loved everything about the “right” Laduree in the St. Germain neighborhood and my daughter insisted we find a way to get there again on Monday before we head back to Zurich, where the pastry looks really good, but is always a bit of a let down when it comes to actual taste. We also decided to buy a little gift there for the Art History teacher who had helped us plan our trip.

Sacre Coeur

The first time I went to Paris, when I was 23 and pretty clueless, the boy that worked at the reception desk at the hotel I stayed at befriended me and took me on a little tour of the city. I wasn’t too keen on him, but I remember he had me run up the steps up Sacre Coeur without looking back until we reached the top.

For 24 years, my mental picture of Paris has been the view from Sacre Coeur. So, I guess that boy knew a few things… Anyway, I had it in my head that I had to get my daughter up there before our weekend was over and Sunday evening it seemed the only thing left on my “must show her” list.

We couldn’t find a taxi so we started walking. It was cold, we were tired, and finally we got a cab for the rest of the way up. (Apparently the Metro was now running pretty frequently, but we had heard it wasn’t….)

Well, it was a bit smoggy and cloudy from the top of the Sacre Coeur steps, and the sunset and view was less than spectacular, and I’m sure my daughter was thinking, “whoopdeedoo” but she was sweet and didn’t say anything. We went into the church, which was crowded with tourists, and there was a service just beginning. Well, we are originally Catholic, even if we are somewhat heathens of late, and so we found a seat and settled in. There was a choir of nuns singing beautifully, lots of incense, and a very grand cathedral all around us. Plus, my heart was feeling very full from a really special weekend with someone I love so much. I had tears in my eyes, but they were the good kind.

Afterward we strolled around Montemarte, bought some souvenirs after carefully finding the absolute lowest prices (daughter #1 is quite the comparison shopper – gets it from her dad), took a photo of me in front of an Irish pub named after my father’s family. I thought my daughter would like to eat in this fun and funky neighborhood, but she wasn’t really too impressed, so we headed down the hill and decided to try taking the metro back. (We were surrounded at one point by the bracelet scammers at the SC funicular, but we have a little trick we use for such things. In our best German accents we firmly say “Nein!” and with our heads down keep walking. Seems to get rid of most aggressive street vendors, and it always makes us laugh at ourselves.) Thankfully the Metro was running and we managed to find our way back to our little neighborhood for a shower and rest before dinner.

We had reserved a table at La Langueduc a casual little family-run steak place on the left bank on Blvd. Pont Royal. The art teacher had recommended it and I think I mentioned my daughter’s favorite meal is steak frites.

When we headed out, the weather was clear, so we left our umbrellas – we’d be sorry later, and our hotel had gotten us a cab as it was a bit of a trip to the restaurant. We arrived, ordered our steak frites and salads and some red wine.

A large group of 8 twenty-somethings was seated next to us and they spoke a number of versions of English – Aussie, GB, and American. They were an interesting group, and decidedly “geekish” in an almost embarrassing way. But still, we were not being judgmental, remember? Well, my petite little daughter had quickly downed her wine and had gotten silly enough about the “geeks” that I had to tell her to cool it a bit. This warning was followed by a brief lecture on “safe” comportment when around strangers. I’m sure her eyes were rolling back in her head the whole time, but sometimes her lack of street smarts is alarming to me and I have to put on my parent hat… (In Strasbourg, a weird young man sat next to her on the metro and she giggled at him and then proceeded to pull her wallet out of her bag and look for something as her younger sister and I watched in horror. Thankfully, her much savvier little sister gave her the lecture that time…)

Before dinner, which was mediocre, but priced so, I went to the WC to freshen up and had a Jerry Seinfeld moment. Remember the hand washing incident? You guessed it. The very large woman (it’s her family business) who is in and out of the kitchen, serves everything, has omitted the hand washing detail after using the toilet. I’m quite the germ-a-phobe, but I returned to my seat, drank some more wine and dutifully ate my meal. I did survive

Sometime during the dinner, the heavens opened and it was pretty much a torrential downpour, we had no umbrellas or raincoats, and it was probably a 20 minute walk to our hotel and I was going to need my map out to find our way back there. The restaurant said there were no taxis to call with the transit strike going on. My enterprising daughter told me to wait under the portico of the restaurant and she very assertively tracked down a taxi after a few soaking minutes. We were pretty lucky and got back to the hotel reasonably dry.

Next installment: Good bye to Paris (for now)...

Final Night

Well, the weekend had flown by, and we were a bit sad to see it end, but also tired from our marathon Paris weekend. So, feeling bittersweet, we packed our bags and planned our last ½ day in Paris. I think my daughter was beginning to have a bit of the “Ed Sullivan’s” (Ed Sullivan’s for those that don’t know: that Sunday evening feeling of dread and worry about the week ahead) about her schoolwork and such, and was mentally ready to be back home. I on the other hand, could have stayed forever☺

Top on my daughter’s list for the final morning was a return to Laduree for a “good” Paris croissant. We also planned to walk over to Place des Vosges and perhaps stop in the Shakespeare and Co bookstore. Wakeup call was ordered and quickly we were fast asleep.

Place des Vosges, a re-look at Notre Dame, a very good Croissant

We were very tired and moving slowly on this final morning. The weather was damp and gloomy but I stuck to my itinerary (well, it’s what I do, although I’m working on this issue!) and we headed toward Place des Vosges after a quick breakfast. We had the chance to see Notre Dame from all around the outside and we were infinitely more in awe from this perspective than we were when we sat on the inside. The flying buttresses, gargoyles and the spire were pretty amazing and we were glad we had the chance to be properly wowed by this famous church.

We strolled from Ile de la Cite to Ile St-Louis and onward toward the Marais. It was Monday morning and kind of quiet everywhere. We ran into a large mob of high school- aged kids outside their school and passed down some quaint little streets, but were too tired to wander much and so made a pretty direct route to Place des Vosges. We really loved this charming square and spent some time just sitting on a bench in the park. It reminded me of the “Who Will Buy?” scene from the movie “Oliver!” How amazing it would be to live in one of these apartments. Weeks later, I saw a BBC documentary about Paris and in it a French gentleman actually shows you inside his apartment and his view of the square and it is really special. I would like to go back there on a “beautiful morning” to see it once again. One more reason to return to Paris!

After this little respite in the park we headed back toward the 6th. Laduree was on my daughters mind, and a look in Shakespeare and Co was on mine. I’m a bibliophile and definitely finding it hard to sate my reading appetite since moving overseas so any chance for an English-language bookstore is a treat. This one was nicely featured in the movie “Until Sunset” and I was hoping to get a peek and buy a small stack of books. We were running out of time, so we had to choose food over books (there’s a philosopher who would have done the opposite, but I can’t remember his famous quote just now…)

This time we were seated downstairs at Laduree as the upstairs was closed. My daughter had a croissant and hot chocolate and I had something that looked like a pretzel but was a pastry and some tea. Absolutely wonderful. The room was pretty and there were pretty people there too. After, we bought some chocolate covered macaroons in the gift shop for her teacher. They were beautifully packaged – the shop itself was a Paris picture.

And then it was time to go home. I had already tipped my friends at Hotel D’Aubusson so we just loaded our luggage into a taxi and headed to the airport.

Final Thoughts

Paris still held its magic for me. I think I loved it even more the second time around. Sharing it with my daughter was really special since she also fell in love with my favorite city. She didn’t “get it” on the way home when I said, “We’ll always have Paris” but I know we are so lucky, because we always will.

Now we’re back to the reality of SATs and AP exams, and college applications loom just around the corner. I’m a nagging mother, she’s a teenager; she gets sick of me, and I of her sometimes. But underneath all the other mother-daughter stuff, are these special memories and the realization that we will travel together again and again. It’s so wonderful to have found a perfect travel companion right in my own family.

p.s. A couple of months after this trip, my daughter went to Florence with her Art History class. Neither of us had ever been there before but it has been on our “list”. She said it was her absolute favorite city so far. “Even better than Paris?” “Yes.” Well, I was a little hurt until she said, “Mom, we absolutely have to go back there together.”

I can’t wait.



Dear Fodor Friends: If you’re still reading this, thanks for hanging in there and letting me share with you!

gruezi

Thanks for finishing! It is so nice to have a written record of a memorable trip, as otherwise the memories fade over time and the trips seem to blend together. At least, that's the way I felt about our 11 week trip in 2006 - I still enjoy pulling out my trip report and reading it every now and then. I'm working on putting it into a book with pictures, based on advice from a fodorite, but for now the trip report is fun to read.

Thank you so much for finishing this! Loved it!!! Makes me even more anxious for our M/D trip again.

Your love for your daughter just flows from the page. Mine is far from being a teenager, but she is definitely my favorite travel companion. I have now graduated to tagging along with two of my granddaughters for their 12th birthdays in Paris, and there is nothing quite like handing down one's love of the city and of travel in general. Thank you for a wonderful read.

Excellent report. You will have more trips to Paris in the future.

Just what documentary was that???

Thanks for a great report. It makes me wish I had taken my girls to Paris when they were teenagers. But it would be just as much (maybe even more fun) now that they are grown. We did do a girl's trip to NYC a couple of years ago and had a wonderful time. Hopefully, we'll get a chance to do Paris one of these days! Thanks again for such a fun report!

travelgirl - I wish I had photos but I am terrible about taking them. I definitely should have gotten myself a small camera for this year and taken a few shots along the way... hindsight is 20/20 right? Now I'm just determined to start recording the trips on paper at least. I'm working on a trip report about Morocco where I went with my other daughter. It really takes a lot of time to write these so I have a new appreciation for all who share with us here on Fodor's.

Kerouac - thank you very much and also for all your help when I planned this trip! and yes, you're right, I'm going back!!

Palette - how nice to be a grandmother of 2 girls!! I hope for the same some day - and for the travel experiences.

hypatia - 2007 BBC "Paris with Sandrine Voillet" . My daughter thought Sandrine was "annoying" but the documentary was fun esp. after the trip to revisit the memories... Also, we enjoyed "Before Sunset" with Julie Delpy and Ethan Hawke for the Paris scenes...

mms - where/when are you headed out again?

blh - I hope you plan another trip soon and that you share it with us here.

Thanks everyone!

gruezi

Wow, what a great TR. I am trying to take my mom to Paris this summer for her first time to celebrate her 60th. We will be over in the UK and I thought a trip for just us would be special. Your TR inspired me--I need to make it happen. Thanks again for sharing!

gruezi--June 2009, for DD's graduation. It is a ways off, but I can't wait. It will be our 3rd trip, but there is always so much to see!

StephCar--Do try and make it work. We took my mom last summer for her 65th bday, and while she was definitely out of her comfort zone, she still says it was a trip of a lifetime!

This was such a lovely report - my mom and I are jut now getting the chance to go away together and this report has really made me look forward to it! What a beautiful ending to a lovely trip.

Hi Gruezi

I just came across this TR just before Mother's day and had tears in my eyes while reading it. After experiencing Paris with my adult children last year I can absolutely relate to the wonderful time you had with your daughter. I hope all of your travels with your daughters are just as blessed!

Thanks for reading my report!

My daughter was just asking my husband last night if there was any way possible he could get a transfer to Paris next year... Sadly, there isn't

I took my younger daughter (14) to Paris in March. We took the train and had an extra day there. They are different girls, and it was a different trip, but still wonderful. Some of her favorites were the Pantheon and tea at Plaza Athenee.

We also saw the Marie Antoinette exhibit which is at the Gran Palais ? through June. I loved this exhibit and highly recommend it.

I just can't get enough of Paris...

Hope you moms and daughters get there together soon.

Everyone talks about Paris being such a romantic city, but I think it is a city made for enjoying with your best girlfriend - or your mom or daughter.

gruezi

what a treat to find right before Mother's Day. It reminds me of trips my Mom and I have taken and hopefully, trips I will make with my daughter, one day soon.

It also brought a few tears since I'm leaving the day after Mothers Day, on my first solo trip since becoming a Mom. I will miss the bond of Mother and child that you so sweetly described.

~mebe

Dear Mebe,

Have a wonderful time on your trip!! Try not to miss everyone too much - you'll be back and doing the diapers in just a snap.

Remember you deserve this time for yourself.

gruezi

I don't know how I missed this report when you first started posting; how lovely. You provided some good pointers, as well as describing a wonderful trip and a wonderful experience with a teenager.

We (including DH) have been to Paris twice with our son, and while he says NYC and London are his favorite cities, he loves Paris too. Going to Laduree is one of our favorite activites, though we go primarily to try every different flavor of macarons. So it doesn't have to be a daughter...

Thanks Gruezi -- I'm trying my best to remember why I'm going! I tend to get so sappy before the "good bye" part.

Gruezi,
I'd like to thank you for such a lovely and meaningful trip report. I had it bookmarked (back in March) and just came back to it today.
I have been having a difficult time motivating myself to complete the details of our trip to France in the fall... I suppose the trial's of life have distracted me.
HOWEVER, your report has ignited my enthusiasm as it has brought back wonderful memories of seeing my 10 yr old daughter's shining face when she walked through Notre Dame for the first time, and as she stared in awe at the paintings in Le Musee Dorsay and said somewhat accusingly, "I thought you said it would be like the Metropolitan," and would not leave until the Orsay closed for the night.
Your daughter sounds lovely, intelligent, and quite sensible, and is fortunate to have such a mother as yourself!

Gruezi,
Thanks for a great report. I'm taking my daughters (12 and 13) to Paris in June. I'm hoping to have some of those same special moments you described. My mother was from Paris, and I am looking forward to showing them where she grew up. Unfortunately my mother passed away last year, but I know she will be watching over us. Thanks again for sharing your trip with us!

Dear Guezi;

I am a little late on this since it seems you have already been back to Paris......but I just wanted to mention that there are two places to eat in the Musee du Orsay. One is the cafe you mentioned upstairs that has the marvelous clock windows you can see Sacre Coeur, the Louvre, and the Seine through. There is a terrace there that is one of the best seats for lunch or coffee in Paris, if it is open.

But there is another restaurant not so obvious or easy to find but it is above the entrance. This is a grand gallery with a mirrored wall on one side, a painted ceiling to rival any in the Louvre, plants as dividers, it also has a terrace that in good weather looks over the Seine as well. This is a sit down place and the food is good and reasonably priced. It is nearly like eating in the hall of Mirrors in Versailles, or in a Gallery in the Louvre. The desserts are great as well.

You mention one of the secrets of eating in Switzerland, that the desserts look better than they taste. For some reason the French do them better in the taste department. Same for the bread, except dark breads in the German/Swiss areas which are outstanding. I am forever buying good looking desserts in Switz only to be dissapointed, including a torte that was so tough it took three men to cut at a dinner party. Rarely if ever a problem in France. But to be fair the cakes are better in Switz. and Germany.

Which brings me to hot chocolate, I will be sure to look up Laduree next time I am in Paris,thank you for the tip, but if you get back sometime right across from the Tuileries just down from the Louvre is a Paris landmark Tea/Patisserie called Angelina's. The place itself is a fine old (1903) belle epoch cafe with gilded mirrors adorning the walls, lovely tablecloths and a take out counter of confections. It has a wonderful elegance associated with affluent matrons and famous people. Audrey Hepburn and Coco Chanel were frequent guests. It is world renowned for it's hot chocolate and justly so. But here is the secret, after about 1pm they also make a White Hot Chocolate, that I have never had anywhere else in the world.

Try it even if you don't favor white chocolate it is an indescribable taste of pure pleasure. Unique in the world. And I am not a food guy.
The pastries can disappoint if you are used to great French pastries. But it is worth a visit for either kinds of hot chocolate.

If you like pastries then be sure to visit one of the many 'Masion du Chocolate' stores around Paris. They are of course known for their chocolate and put your choices in the box wearing white gloves. Some of the best chocolate anywhere. But look around and you will see the single best Chocolate Eclair I have had in my life. I like to take them to a park and eat them there.

Thanks for your tips and I will also try to eat at Les Ombres next time.

Many more Happy Trips to you and your family.

Many thanks to those who have stopped by to read my report since I last checked in.

James - We had a really lovely follow up trip to Paris. Funny, I had been to Angeline's my first trip to Paris around 25 years ago. My daughter and I did stop in this time for lunch just because it was convenient to our hotel and we were famished. It was a very hot summer day so no hot chocolate but I did have a delicious iced tea which can be hard to find in Europe. My husband would love the white hot chocolate so maybe that is an excuse for another Paris weekend!

Thanks for your tips on where to eat at the Musee d'Orsay as well and the other chocolate shoppe.

The dessert and bread thing in Switzerland is funny isn't it? I do love a wonderful dark nut bread very much, but beyond that, I think even the US beats the bread and pastries here in Switz.

We are headed to Berlin next week and I will definitely be eating my share of cake there!

Thanks again for a good read and lots of interesting info!

gruezi

Dear Gruezi;

Berlin is an amazing place these days. It is striking in that all of the new architecture is solid glass. The difference in psychology this engenders is subconscious and uplifting. Life, government, and business are now as transparent as possible in distinct contrast to not only the Russian era but also the classic German buildings of the 1800's. Even the Reichstag now has a glass dome and observation areas not only for seeing out over the city but straight down into the Bundestag even while it is in session. Where else in the world do the tourists get to watch government in action?

Be sure to get to the Tiergarten Zoo. When I was there three years ago they had baby gorillas, elephants and tigers.

Try the cakes/tortes/Kuchen. I usually go on a mission in Germany and Austria to try all the apfelstrudels I can find, preferably with raisins. Don't forget the Black Forest Cakes, and the Sacher Tortes.

They almost always have great hot chocolate for breakfast any where you stay. Just ask if you don't see it. They make it in giant pots in the kitchen.

As we said the dark breads there are unbeatable. But don't forget the pretzels as well.

We have the advantage of living in Geneva on the border so we get our, wine, pastries and bread on the French side.

We are off to Sicily in Oct. for a couple of weeks so if anyone has any good spots to eat or stay let me know. We have a B&B in Siracusa that over hangs the water. I Can't wait.

But I think I will try to get back to Paris before that..........

bis bald,

James

James -

I was just checking in on my Berlin thread when you posted.

Thanks for your thoughts on Berlin as well! I am a Black Forest Cake fan...

Have a wonderful trip to Sicily. I've been to Italy 5 times since we moved to Zurich last year but so far not to Sicily although I hear it is beautiful.

I will have to remember to ask your advice when I finally make it to Geneva.

So many places yet to see...

and I agree, Paris is always calling!

gruezi

Hi gruezi,
Just read your lovely Paris trip report and am bookmarking it for a re-read and search for myriad of things for an upcoming visit. Many kudos!

TDudette,

Thanks and let me know if you have any questions. I've been back to Paris 2 times since this trip - once with the younger daughter (14) and another quick stop with the older...

Before we leave Europe, I've decided my last hurrah will be a week in Paris - maybe with my husband this time as he gets jealous!

gruezi

Gruezi and Daughter;

Just wanted to say that I went to school in Boston too and while all the schools mentioned are fine institutions I would vote for Wellesley.

It is a great campus and only half an hour into Boston which is perfect for catching all the culture and fun but then it is quiet the rest of the time. Just watch out for those Harvard boys.........and MIT boys.

Plus it will always look better on your CV. I know early to be thinking about that but the hard fact is it matters. College is a fantastic life changing experience. You make friends and open doors of opportunity that influence the rest of your life. That is almost impossible to appreciate until years after you finish college. I assume you will get good marks because you will be doing something you are interested in. I salute you for being interested in a Peace and Justice major. Only 7% of degrees granted are in the Liberal Arts anymore. But more and more that is what employers are looking for because of the narrowness of business degrees.

The advice I give every freshman is to take the lightest load possible. The minimum hours needed to be full time. There are many distractions in the first years of college, being away from home, lots of chances to do things besides study, etc. Only take courses you are interested in. Do well in them. You can wreck a GPA in just one bad semester. Try to avoid prerequisite courses if you don't like the area of study until the second year when you can focus on studying more. If you do poorly in a course drop it before you get stuck with a bad grade and retake it if you have to later. Take advantage of any tutoring offered. Look at exams of past years when you start a course so you know what is expected to be covered. Don't wait until the end of term. I sense you will go on to grad school. So if you want to go to the best then you have to do the best. Boring stuff. The stuff no one tells you until too late. Or you learn it the hard way. I am sure you are smarter than me so you so you will figure all this out on your own.

But the most important advice is to enjoy it. It will be the best time of your life. No matter how difficult you might think it is when you are there, studying, writing, taking exams, etc. it is easier than anything that comes after that. Do what you have a passion for and you will always be happy. Same goes for picking a college. Remember that if you find you don't like it it is easy to transfer somewhere you like better if you have good marks.

I have a book for you to read along the lines of your Holocaust studies.
"Frauen" German Women Recall the Third Reich by Alison Owings 1993
It is a haunting oral examination of the thoughts and motivations of German Women. http://www.amazon.com/Frauen-German-Women-Recall-Third/dp/0813522005


Great Idea to not take your younger daughter to Dachau.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dachau_concentration_camp

Along with the Holocaust Memorial in Jerusalem it is one of the most justifiably terrifying depressing experiences in the world. http://www.yadvashem.org/

I still remember them vividly 20 plus years later.

I assume you know Dachau is no where near Berlin.........

Gruezi,

RE: Berlin,

http://www.nytimes.com/2008/07/31/world/europe/31berlin.html?ref=world

The German Court just reversed the no smoking ban in Berlin.

Hi James,

I was just working on my trip report re:WWII and noticed that I never answered your very thoughtful posts.

I had taken the time to share them with my daughter though esp. your thoughts on Wellesley. I would love to see her go there and I'm glad she decided to apply. I am a women's college graduate...

My WWII trip report is very long and wordy but I hope if you have a boring night sometime and need something to make you sleepy you will take a peek.

Thanks for your support and good advice.

gruezi

Loved your report. We will be doing many of the same things on our Paris trip. No matter how many times you have been to Paris...these places are worth seeing again.
FYI..Wellesley...I am Women's collge graduate and wanted my daughter to go co-ed but niece graduated Wellesley and loved it and got into med school. Wellesley students can take courses at MIT!! Niece didn't.

gruezi,

I love your report! And I don't know how I missed seeing it all these months! My 20-year-old daughter is off to Paris for a semester this spring, so your report is very timely. Like you, we've stayed at Hotel d'Aubusson. We loved the hotel ( stayed in grande luxe rooms) and will go back again when we visit our daughter in the spring.

Anyway, best wishes to your daughter! I hope that she has a wonderful freshman year. Out of curiousity, which women's college did you go to? I'm a Sarah Lawrence grad.

Thanks again for the fantastic report!

Dear Elaine and Weadles,

Thanks for reading and sharing your thoughts.

Paris is such a wonderful city and I love sharing talk about it. Weadles, your daughter will have such a wonderful time!

It's so nice to get the support on the women's colleges too.

I went to Douglass College - women's college of Rutgers the State U. of NJ. We lived in Bronxville when my oldest was born, so I know Sarah Lawrence quite well! Wonderful writing program there...

Thanks to both of you.

gruezi

Gruezi - I am researching a mother daughter weekend for my Mom and I - and googled on the internet and this came up. Your famous

Hi Mom,

Or maybe just infamous!

Where are you going with your mom??

Hope it is Paris.

gruezi

ps Just went back to work today...

No Gruezi..no not Paris... I have not been there since Christmas of 2008... We are not decided yet on where to go - but only have 3 nights so it will be here stateside. I hope work went well