Our unforgettable trip to Paris and Rome - Some questions answered and some lessons learned

You are very funny, but I sense that something may have gone askew on this trip! I look forward to hearing more. And thanks for posting about the negative side of things too - as you point out, it leads to lessons learned.

Oh dear. I'm not sure my travels have led to the same lessons as yours, but I am interested to hear why yours did. Looking forward to the story.

Can't wait. Lead on!

Keep going

Waiting to hear more...

An interesting and ....'different' approach for sure, Hagan, to tell us of your trip ! I see your humour, but was at first alarmed at all the 'Probably NOT's as I read. However, I am looking forward to the rest of your report of yours and your grandsons' impressions.
Let the good times roll !

Glad you are home safely. I look forward to hearing the rest of the story.

I always like a good story...

Waiting for the beginning, the middle, AND the end of this one . . .

Enjoying your "tongue in cheek" narrative style---that's a compliment Deborah

And before you continue, I have to ask: were the drunks watering the wall outside American college students on spring break? I hope not, but I also know that public drunkenness is not common in most places in Italy. As for public urination, I don't know ...

Wow, there must be 2 Campo dei Fioris. That sounds nothing like our experience.

Day 1

The flight over from Atlanta on Air France was actually very nice - I really like that airline. We’ve flown United, AA, and Virgin to Europe previously, so this was our first experience with AF. The plane was an airbus and looked brand new, service was good and friendly, no complaints whatsoever - and it got us there safely and on time! Can’t ask for more.
Found an ATM across the room from the RER ticket office in the airport, bought our tickets into town and we were off. Exited at St. Michel, but detoured a few feet so we could all have a look at the Notre Dame. At his first sight of Paris, GS 1 exclaimed “This is SO cool!”
Walked the few minutes to our apartment on Rue St. Andre des Arts, and were met by the owner. Found this on the website, perfect places.com. She left after showing us around, telling us how everything works, and giving us her cell number in case we needed anything or had a problem.
The apartment is in a fantastic location , through the iron gates that open onto Cour de Commerce and steps from Rue de Buci. It’s on the 4th (French) floor with tiny lift, has a fairly large living/dining room, a tiny but very updated and well-equipped galley kitchen, a bedroom with queen-size bed, updated bathroom, and shelves and shelves of the owner’s gorgeous books, ranging from art to history and classics. I love it! The boys will sleep on the queen-size futon in the living room, and all will agree that the beds are extremely comfortable.
Walked down the street to Champion grocery with GS 2, while GS 1 soaks his foot in a bath of Epsom salts. He had toe surgery a week ago, is on 2 anti-biotics and has to soak it for 30 minutes twice a day. Bummer. Spent too much time just looking and trying to figure out what things are in the grocery, but LOVE the low price of wine - for less than 3 euro, you can get ANYTHING! Stopped on the way back bought those long hot dog sandwiches for the boys and jambon and fromage ones for us, 3.50 euro each. Everyone agrees, the food here is going to be fabulous.
The boys are exhausted, as are we, and GS 1’s toe hurts, so they rest for a short while. Then it’s up and over to Notre Dame. Wow, does it look gorgeous now! The last time, the entire front was hidden with scaffolding, but now it’s gleaming, brilliant and looks brand new! I never get tired of that sight, and try to explain the history of the building to the boys, have them put their hands on the pillars inside to feel the “ghosts.” Walk to the Internet café on Rue de la Harpe to send an e-mail to the boys mom to let her know we’re here, and then head home. The boys pass out on the futon for 2 hours while I go out and get something for dinner - rotisserie chicken and potatoes, with all the drippings, from the butcher shop down the street, baguettes from Paul’s - it doesn’t get any better than this, and all for under 15 euros. I think I could live here.
Everyone took showers and felt revived, so after dinner we take off on foot for a cruise on the Seine. I had coupons from the internet for 2 euros off each, so the cost was 36 euros total, CASH ONLY. They don’t take credit cards. Paris is the most gorgeous city in the world, especially so at night, so I was excited for the boys to see her. Unfortunately, there were mobs of spring breakers on board, standing in groups in the front, most were drunk and loud, you couldn’t see anything or hear the narrator. But the absolute WORST was the guy behind us who said he was a Methodist minister, used to be the bishop of North Carolina, and he was so drunk and obnoxious that we were all ashamed he was from the US!!!
We head back to the apartment, and I realize that it’s nearly 11:30. I had gotten the Pari-Roller route online before we left yesterday, and the skaters would be coming down St. Michel and turning east onto St. Germain any minute. So I send DH home,as his knees hurt and he was tired, and boys and I walk to the corner, just as the police had stopped all traffic and police on skates were leading the pack. Around the corner they flew, followed by the fastest skaters. A blur going by, and then several started spinning out as they sped around the corner, and slid into parked cars, flew over guardrails, it was mayhem. The boys loved it! Skaters continued to go by for 7 or 8 minutes, with the ones at the back of the pack going at a much safer pace. End the night with our first nutella and banana crepe - the boys think they’ve found nirvana, and get to bed at 12:30. I’m EXHAUSTED!
Tomorrow, it’s kilts everywhere - are we sure this is Paris?

To those of you wondering about the nationality of the people outside our apartment in Italy, most nights it was Italian men, but the worst night it was an English-accented couple. You know, it could happen anywhere, and we're FAR from being prudes. I mean, we drink most every night, in Italy 2 bottles of wine a night, so we're definitely not teetotalers!

And Sandi, it seemed, when we peered out the window, that for some reason, they tended to congregate just outside our building, always at least 6 or 7 people. There was a small, unnamed restaurant next door that seemed fairly refined,I don't think they came from there, and there was a bar just across and down the street. We were just before the famous arch that goes over Via dei Cappellari. I definitely didn't get the feeling that these were spring breakers!

In Vienna one night we had one lone drunk making his way down the street outside our hotel, singing at the top of his lungs and happy as a clam. He seemed to take about half an hour to make his way down the block ... Of course, this happens nearly every Saturday night on my street here in NYC. More than once. And more than one guy. Sometimes it's a bunch of omwen seemingly having a bachelorette party, or a few couples who stand outside their cars shouting goodbye for twenty minutes! You're right, Hagan - it CAN happen anywhere!

Day 2

It’s St. Paddy’s Day, and men in kilts are everywhere! GS 2 is fascinated, as he’s only seen them in marching bands before, and these guys are just everywhere in the streets. He begins taking pictures discreetly, and starts affecting an Irish accent and talking about the “Homeland.” Huh?
Day starts with yummies from Paul’s for breakfast, then we walk to the Cluny Museum and buy museum passes for us, 30 euros each. The boys get in just about everywhere free, so that’s a savings. Go through Cluny briefly, see the Roman baths (hope to segue that into the Rome part of our trip), then walk to the Louvre across Pont des Art bridge.
We see Egyptian mummies, which fascinate the boys, but we all agree the area has a strange odor - has anyone else noticed this?
See the Mona Lisa (disappointing), Italian art and sculptures, Winged Victory and Napoleon’s apartments. Dh’s knees are killing him, GS 1’s complaining with his foot, but GS 2 is enthused, loves the Louvre, is taking lots of pictures and would like to stay longer. On a side note, we bought a digital camera for GS 1 for Christmas, bought a new one for ourselves and gave our old one, a 3 MP Canon Elph, to GS 2.
We leave and head down Rue di Rivoli in search of Angelina’s for hot chocolate, but give up and go inside some awful little self-serve place just to be able to sit down. Had the worst meal of the trip there, but it’s cold out and we enjoy the opportunity to sit down. DH’s knees are hurting still, GS 1’s starting to limp. We decide to metro to the Metiers and Arts Museum, thought maybe the boys would enjoy it. Buy Mobilis passes for us, 5.50 Euros each, and Ticket Jeune for the boys at 3.50 each. The museum was OK, but very few exhibits had English translations so it's a little disappointing. We go back to the apartment and rest, they do anyway, while I go to the grocery. It’s mobbed as it’s closed tomorrow (Sunday). I also go to Picard’s Frozen Food Store, just across the street from us, and buy chicken cordon bleu and au gratin potatoes for dinner - 14 euros .
After dinner, we metro to the Eiffel Tower. I had GS 1 figure out the metro route, and he did fine! We get there at 9:15, and stand in line until 10:35. It’s REALLY cold and windy out now, but we’re all up for the adventure. Up to the very top we go, then down to the second level. It takes FOREVER to get the elevator back down, and we’re afraid we won’t make it to the metro in time to use our tickets, as they expire at midnight. We choose the RER, as it’s closer, and get through the turnstiles with about 12 minutes to spare.

At the start of our street, the crepe stand is still open so we all get crepes again. St. Andre is MOBBED with St. Patrick’s Day celebrants, many of them in kilts and funny hats. There’s an Irish Pub about a block in from St. Michel, and it’s rocking! GS 2 takes more pictures of them as we pass by and again adopts the Irish brogue. He’s having a great time with his camera. It’s nearly 1:30 AM when we finally get to bed after sitting up and talking about the day. The boys play a few hands of cards, “War” I think. Once again, I’m wiped out. These late hours are killing me!

Tomorrow, we take on the Army Museum - oh yay.

Love your report Hagan although of course I am so sorry to read about your husbands aching knees and your grandsons injured toe and the bad weather and the drunks. But really, your writing style is fantastic..and the food sounds so good. I am looking forward to your next installment. You are a good traveller!

Day 2

It’s St. Paddy’s Day, and men in kilts are everywhere! GS 2 is fascinated, as he’s only seen them in marching bands before, and these guys are just every in the streets. He begins taking pictures discreetly, and starts affecting an Irish accent and talking about the “Homeland.” Huh?
Day started with yummies from Paul’s for breakfast, then we walked to the Cluny Museum and bought museum passes for us, 30 euros each. The boys get in just about everywhere free, so that’s a savings. Go through Cluny briefly, see the Roman baths (hope to segue that into the Rome part of our trip), then walk to the Louvre across Pont des Art bridge.
We see Egyptian mummies, which fascinate the boys, but we all agree the area has a strange odor - has anyone else noticed this? See the Mona Lisa (disappointing), Italian art and sculptures, Winged Victory and Napoleon’s apartments. Dh’s knees are killing him, GS 1’s complaining with his foot, but GS 2 is enthused, loves the Louvre, is taking lots of pictures and would like to stay longer. On a side note, we bought a digital camera for GS 1 for Christmas, bought a new one for ourselves and gave our old one, a 3 MP Canon Elph, to GS 2.
We leave and head down Rue di Rivoli in search of Angelina’s for hot chocolate, but give up and go inside some awful little self-serve place just to be able to sit down. Had the worst meal of the trip there, but it’s cold out and we enjoy the opportunity to sit down. DH’s knees are hurting still, GS 1’s starting to limp. We decide to metro to the Metiers and Arts Museum, thought maybe the boys would enjoy it. Buy Mobilis passes for us, 5.50 Euros each, and Ticket Jeune for the boys at 3.50 each. The museum was OK, but very few exhibits had English translations so it was a little disappointing. We go back to the apartment and rest, they do anyway, while I go to the grocery. It’s mobbed as it’s closed tomorrow (Sunday). I also go to Picard’s Frozen Food Store, just across the street from us, and buy chicken cordon bleu and au gratin potatoes for dinner - 14 euros .
After dinner, we metro to the Eiffel Tower. I had GS 1 figure out the metro route, and he did fine! We get there at 9:15, and stand in line until 10:35. It’s REALLY cold and windy out now, but we’re all up for the adventure. Up to the very top we go, then down to the second level. It takes FOREVER to get the elevator back down, and we’re afraid we won’t make it to the metro in time to use our tickets, as they expire at midnight. We choose the RER, as it’s closer, and get through the turnstiles with about 15 minutes to spare.

At the start of our street, the crepe stand is still open so we all get crepes again. St. Andre is MOBBED with St. Patrick’s Day celebrants, many of them in kilts and funny hats. There’s an Irish Pub about a block in from St. Michel, and it’s rocking! GS 2 takes more pictures of them as we pass by and again adopts the Irish brogue. He’s having a great time with his camera. It’s nearly 1:30 AM when we finally get to bed after sitting up and talking about the day. The boys played a few hands of cards, “War” I think. Once again, I’m wiped out. These late hours are killing me!

Tomorrow, we take on the Army Museum - yay.


Day 3

It’s cold and rainy, and we sleep in until 10 AM! After breakfast, foot-soakings and such, we head off by metro to L’Orangerie, which I had really wanted to see. We bypass the line as we have the Museum Passes, so they’re definitely worth it. The boys appear bored, so we only stay a very short time. I especially like the second room of the Water Lillies and the Renoirs downstairs. We cross the Tuilleries and actually find Angelina’s, where we all have the hot chocolate - now that’s just sinful! It’s like drinking a melted chocolate bar. We walk to the shopping area of the Louvre to the Comedie Francaise to buy birthday presents for our eldest grandaughter, who is a theater major.
We metro to theh Invalides to see the Army Museum - there’s some kind of event going on, and soldiers are everywhere. The boys absolutely LOVE this place. They stand in front of each display and “choose” their weapons, or their helmets, or their armor. It becomes a competition, and DH and I laugh silently at their boyish enthusiasm. This place is definitely a hit!
We metro home and rest our feet a bit, then walk to the Internet place, and just a few doors down to have dinner at La Petite Hostellerie on Rud de la Harpe. We have the 9.95 euro dinners, 3 courses! DH and I have onion soup, beef bourguignon, and for desert, a warm chocolate cake with a molten center, surrounded by a cream sauce. It’s divine. Our four dinners, a carafe of vin rouge, a coke and a large carafe of water comes to 50 euros. Wonderful meal.
We walk home, and the boys still want to see the Arc de Triomphe, so DH stays home and we take off. This time, GS 2 has the job of figuring out our metro route.
The boys are impressed when they see the size of the monument, and we ride the lift to the top. As we step outside, it begins a cold rain, blowing sideways by the strong windsl We hang out a few minutes to see the Tower sparkle with it’s twinkle lights, then head home to finish packing for Rome tomorrow. The bad weather is supposed to follow us. Bummer.

Tomorrow, Rome!

Sorry about repeating Day 2 - it was enough to read it the first time!!! I'll try to do a better job of editing in the future. And thanks to those who say they're enjoying this.

Hagan - great style!

Can't wait to hear about Rome.
We make our first trip there in April.

We were in Paris-Florence-Rome March 11-27. Lulled into complacency by the 8 days of glorious weather when we arrived. Then we hit that bad patch -- deafening hail-storm in Rome the day of our arrival (March 20), followed by wet, blustery weather for a fair bit.

That, as they say, totally sucked.

Redeemed in toto by the sun and warm weather that followed -- sorry to tell you but the days after your departure (March 25, 26, 27) were heavenly in Rome. Will post details on an already commenced trip report/ posting....

Day 4

After an early breakfast, we head downstairs to wait for our taxi. This was pre-arranged by our apartment owner for 45 euros, and his name is Jean-Jacques. I just love saying that name! We’re glad to have the car, as it’s freezing and rainy this morning, and it begins to snow on our way to the airport.
We really don’t have clothes for this weather, we’re from Florida! The boys have 1 long-sleeve shirt, the rest short sleeves, a hoodie and a light waterproof jacket. However, GS 1 didn’t try on his jacket before he left home and the sleeves are a little short, so he won’t wear it. No amount of threats or begging can convince him, so he just wears the hoodie and freezes. For the entire trip. Stubborn!

Our flight is delayed about 30 minutes by bad weather somewhere - Rome? We’re picked up at the airport by Romeshuttlelimousine.com for 35 euros. It’s a WILD ride into town - the boys can’t look, and GS 1 says he doesn’t “enjoy almost dying every 10 seconds.” Welcome to Roma.

Our apartment is on Via dei Cappellari, just off Campo di Fiori. We rented it through sleepinitaly.com. The market has closed for the day and there’s trash and debris all over the square, it’s cold and rainy and dark. And there’s BRUNO looming over the Campo like the Grim Reaper. A somber welcome, to be sure. As we walk down our tiny lane, the cobbles in the street appear grouted with cigarette butts. The boys seem a little dismayed, they don't know quite what to make of this.

At our apartment, we’re met by the owner’s husband, who has no idea how anything works, where anything is, he’s just there because the wife is ill. It’s a good-size place, with a living room in the front, a dining room beyond, with small antique kitchen on the side, an adequate bathroom off the dining room, and a huge bedroom in the back. The bedroom has a king-size bed and a sleeper sofa, plus a small round game table and 2 chairs. We decide to let the boys have the bedroom, and we’ll take the futon in the living room. Actually, once again, the beds are all very comfortable, and I find the place quite charming.

We put our things down and head off to the Despar grocery several blocks away. What an experience - the entire store is the size of two rooms in my house, practically. I have a hard time figuring out what anything is and send the boys searching for chips, cokes, crackers and such while we do the rest. Hey, red wine is only 1.60 euros here - FABULOUS! We get several frozen meals for dinners, lasagna and manicotti, and head out. It’s raining hard now and we’re soaked when we get home.

There’s no microwave and no conventional oven that I can find, but there’s this ancient-looking contraption on the counter that looks like it could be some sort of oven, or broiler, or something that heats up. So, I start the lasagna, as I’m sure it will take forever in this thing. It makes a terrible grinding sound the whole time, that’s weird. Meanwhile, we need some underwear and socks washed, and the kitchen actually has a washing machine. We read the directions and try to put a few things in. Swish, swish, stop. Swish, swish, stop. This could take awhile.

We all sit at the dining table and begin to play some cards, and suddenly we’re in the dark - the power has gone out. We have no flashlight, no candles, no matches, NO PHONE! OK, we’re not going to panic. I grab my trip itinerary with all the phone numbers and run down into the street, searching for someplace open that has a friendly-looking person inside with a telephone. (Note here that the lesson learned is NEVER RENT AN APARTMENT WITHOUT GETTING A CELL PHONE). A few doors down, I see a tiny artist’s shop/studio and a young woman painting a ceramic pitcher at a desk that has a PHONE. With extensive hand language and minimal Italian, I ask if I can use her phono. I call the agency, they call the owner and he comes over in 10 or 15 minutes. He lifts up a painting on a wall to reveal a circuit breaker, resets it, looks at us with more than a little disdain and begins to leave. We detain him just long enough to ask why we can get only one snowy station on the TV, and the rest is static. He fools around with it for a minute, then says he’ll have to have it fixed but it will be next week before anyone can come out.

I attempt to heat the lasagna in a skillet, and we have our first meal in Italy - yuck! It’s pouring rain now, but the boys are getting bored so we walk to the Pantheon. It’s closed, but we admire it from the outside, underneath our pitiful umbrellas, and get our first gelatos. Now those are a definite hit! We’re cold and soaked when we get home, play cards awhile then hit the sack. It’s been an eventful day. I just hope the weather improves tomorrow.

OK, Tedgale, I really didn't need to hear about the fabulous weather after we left. I've been pretending that it's been horrendous even to this day, that it wasn't merely bad timing but was a LOOOOOOONG stretch of foul weather that could not possibly be avoided. Thanks!

Day 5

DH and I are up at 9, the boys are still sound asleep. We get dressed, have coffee and bread with nutella and walk to the Campo market. Just before we leave, we awaken the boys and tell them to eat breakfast and get dressed. We stroll through the market, drool over the luscious flowers (we’ve never seen calla lillies that enormous), and eventually buy some cheeses, salami, olives, pasta and prepared Bolognese sauce for dinner tonight. We get back home, and GS 1 still hasn’t soaked his foot, then he has to put a dressing on it, so we didn’t leave until after 11:30. The night before, I went around the corner to the farmacia and bought a foot-bath product that he’s starting to use, we’ll see how it works.

It had been sunny and fairly mild, sort of a hopeful-looking morning while we were at the market, but now it’s cloudy and the winds are picking up. We buy one-day bus passes for four euros each and head out to find the bus stop. Our goal is to get to St. Peter’s, but we’re having a hard time figuring out this bus system. Not only do you have to know where to get ON the bus, but you also have to know when to get OFF. I’m sure we’ll figure this out.

We eventually make it to St. Peter’s, and it’s a freezing wind now. GS 1 looks bored, is ticked off because his camera won’t take good pictures inside the basilica, and is sulking a bit. Not exactly the expression we were hoping to see. We expected jaw-dropping looks of amazement from them, but this didn’t happen. Neither of them wants to climb the dome so we leave after a very short visit. And walk back out into the cold to find the bus stop. Our destination is Barberini for the Hard Rock Café on Via Veneto.

Now this next thing is entirely my fault - I had us get off too soon at the WRONG stop, we end up wandering a bit, got lost, still not familiar with where things are, can’t find the right bus stop again and it’s freezing, the wind is blowing right through us. We eventually make it to the Hard Rock on a bus, after a 40-minute delay! Let’s just say none of us are too happy about this.

It’s great to be sitting in a warm, comfortable place, and we’re in no rush at the Hard Rock. The boys enjoy their American-style lunches and do some shopping at the gift shop for their parents. I hate to leave - can’t we just sit in the warmth a few more hours?

We finally head out and it’s raining now (surprise) as we head to the Capuccin Crypt. We make it inside before we’re completely soaked and head into the crypt. We all agree it’s pretty amazing - creepy but amazing. We try to pick out all the bones and name them, sort of a grotesque thing to do, but the bones are used so artistically and with so much imagination, that you almost forget they’re bones. OK, that’s a hit, we’re two for three so far today.

We get to the exit of the church when we hear thunder and a loud noise - it’s hailing! We run outside and up the stairs into the church to wait it out. After a bit, we walk toward the Spanish Steps and the American Express office, as I want to try to buy tickets for the Alto Velocita train to Naples, so we can go to Pompeii. There’s a promotion for due per uno and we can just afford it if we can get those tickets. I tried online before we left but couldn’t get the site to work for me.

At the American Express office, the woman tries to tell me the Alto Velocita goes to the Terminal Centrale in Naples, and we want the one that goes to the station that begins with an “M” for transfer to Pompeii. I know she’s wrong, as I’ve read so many reports here that give directions from Centrale, but she’s insistent and now I’m second-guessing myself, so I don’t buy any tickets. Outside, we step into blowing rain and start to walk around looking for a bus stop. None of us can see one, but GS 1 spots a taxi stand so we grab one and head for home, miserably cold and wet. Taxi fare 6.40 euro and worth every cent.

Minutes after we get in, it starts to thunder and lightning, followed by heavy hail that lasts 10-20 minutes. It eventually hails on us 4 times today. The boys go out and gather up ice to make snowballs to toss at each other and at anything that looks remotely like a target. Back inside, they’re loud, I’m exhausted and DH’s knees are shot. I fix the pasta and sauce and afterward, I walk with the boys to get a gelato in the Campo. We then walk to Piazza Navona and it’s completely empty, dark and dead because of the continuing rain and cold

I’m so disappointed with the havoc this weather is causing. There’s really nothing much to do or see that’s inside in Rome, unless you’re really into churches, it’s an outdoor type of city. We get only 1 station on our TV and it’s in Italian, of course. We do watch a game show that’s on around 8 or 9 that the boys have named “Dealo or No Dealo”, similar to our Howie Mandell show here, and there’s almost always a gorgeous Italian girl as a contestant. We just hadn’t planned to have to stay in our place so much of the time. I head to the Internet Point with GS 1 and check on weather.com to see if there’s anyplace within a day’s trip from Rome that might have decent weather tomorrow. It looks like Orvieto has a lesser chance of rain and a few degrees warmer than Rome, so we decide to head there tomorrow.

Hagan,

You are such a cool grandma! I love your trip report. When you mentioned nutella and banana crepes I was hooked. Yum!

Hagan wrote <<Not only do you have to know where to get ON the bus, but you also have to know when to get OFF. I’m sure we’ll figure this out.
>>

That is the best definition of travel and the need to do it that I've ever read.

The Cappuccin Crypt really is amazing and so easy to see as a short stop between other things. Art students love it.

Thanks to all for your responses. I intend to try to finish up later today, but for now I'm off to work. Now I have to PAY for the trip.

We rented an apt in Rome for the first time in January and in my trip report I wrote "Lesson #2, never rent an apt without a cell phone". We needed one about 3 times.

Great report...you are terrific grandparents. What's a trip to Rome without a good hail story? (It hailed us when we were peddaling a surrey around the Borghese Gardens.)

I'm sorry it was so noisy for you on the via dei Cappellari. We stayed in a different flat on the same street and were never bothered by noise.

Hagen,

Lovely report. I also think you just had a stroke of bad luck with the noise (well, that and the weather!). We stayed in apt. very close to yours (on Via Giulia) and it was always dead silent (in Aug). Looking forward to reading more.

Such a fascinating report! Not the usual "I stayed at... ate at... paid this much"

Bookmarking for further reading.

I think it's wonderful that you took your grandsons with you on this trip. I'm sure they will never forget it and that it will undoubtedly influence their lives in many ways.

It is too bad that the weather couldn't have cooperated a little more -- but perhaps the relatively unique experiences will be funny when you are a little further away from them! I'm sure it wasn't funny when you were cold and wet.

Day 6

Finally get the boys up early and we taxi to Termini (6.40 euros plus tip) for the train to Orvieto. I wasn't expecting such gorgeous scenery, but we're fascinated by the postcard-like vistas, the snow-topped mountains in the background. GS 1 takes pix from his window seat.
We take the funicular up to the city and walk to a scenic overlook - just breathtaking. It's a beautifully sunny day with just a few white clouds, cold but not uncomfortable, so we're elated. We take the bus to the center of town and get our first sight of the duomo, all of its colors glistening in the sunlight. What a fabulous facade!
As we begin to meander down the narrow, cobblestone lanes lined with picturesque shops, GS1 says "We should have stayed here - this is great!" Who knew they'd like little hilltowns?! We get most of our souvenir shopping done in the quaint little shops, small porcelain dolls for the grandaughters, knights and gladiators for the other grandsons, wall plaques for our daughters. GS1 heads out on his own down one of the small streets, and comes back to tell us he's found the house he wants to buy when he's older, so we trudge after him and take a picture of him in front of its gate.
Lunch is at a pizzeria on the square, 4 pizzas, 1/2 carafe chianti, 2 cokes and 1 water, 42 euros.
The wind is beginning to pick up now, really gusting, and we're starting to feel the cold more, which gives us an excuse to duck into more shops. The boys climb to the top of the clock tower, and make it a race, of course. We have return tickets for 6 PM, but the blustery winds are really making it impossible to enjoy walking outdoors for much longer, so we head back to the train station and catch one heading back to Rome at 3:40 or so. Back at Termini, I try once more to buy the promotional tickets to Naples for Pompeii visit, but can only get two at that fare, so we decide it's just too expensive and we'll have to go to Ostia Antica instead. The boys are disappointed but they understand (I hope).
Back at our apartment, we exhausted so we give the boys money to go get their own pizza, we're eating salumi and cheese!

Day 7

Our day to see the Colosseum and the Forum. It's not raining, the sun is trying to peek out, but it's still windy and cold. We set off walking to the Forum to buy our tickets at the Arch of Titus, but get sidetracked by the cat sanctuary and linger there a little. GS1 isn't happy that we're WALKING "all that way", wants to take a taxi, but we keep walking. His foot is feeling good now, since we've been using the Italian foot bathsalt.
Tickets in hand, we head over to the Colosseum and I get out my guidebooks and narrate a little of what we're seeing. We walk around a bit, talk about gladiators and Roman history, and the boys take pictures. GS1 takes a great shot of the ancient stairways between levels. But they admit to some disappointment at the condition of the monument, and are appalled that there's even some grafitti here.

We eat lunch at an overpriced pizzeria across the street, with an extremely rude waiter, but the food was decent and it was nice to sit in a warm place.
Next, it's over to the forum, where we want to take an English tour,but there's a sign that says "no tours in English today - personnel shortage", so I bring out my old "Then and Now" book and we try to wing it. We head up to the Palantine area and it's REALLY getting cold and windy now - seems to pick up every afternoon and the windchill factor drops like crazy! It's really beautiful up here, and we all enjoy the views and gardens, boys even find a tunnel to explore, but the cold winds eventually wear us down and we head back on foot to our apartment.
In the evening, we walk to the Pantheon and get to see the inside, which the boys really like - they marvel at how well-preserved it is and can't get over the hole in the ceiling. We have the best meal of our Italy trip at an outdoor cafe on the right side of the Piazza della Rotunda. The heaters are on full-force under the umbrellas and we're toasty warm. Our waiter is just the nicest man with the sweetest smile and the boys really enjoy him. I have a delicious pasta carbonara, they have pizzas, DH has seafood pasta. With 2 glasses chianti, 2 cokes with refills (!) the bill was 40 euros. Great value. There's something magic about sitting in that piazza at night, looking up at the lit Pantheon and feeling all of that history around you - gives me goosebumps.
We follow dinner with a 5 minute walk to Trevi Fountain, which really WOWED the boys and they thew their coins in. Of course, it was then time for the gelato stop before we head home. A lovely day.

Sorry to hear about your obstacles, but I'm really enjoying your account of the trip. Rome is bringing back great memories from last year-our first Europe visit ever, and I've been jotting notes for our short Paris stay this summer (we were excited to hear about a €10 3-course meal!).

We were embarassed by the graffiti around the Colliseum as well; especially (being Aggies) the aTm carved in one spot. Very disappointing.

Looking forward to the rest of your story!

Great trip report!
will also be heading to paris & rome (among other places) later this year & renting apartments in both - after reading about your 'adventures' i think i'll look into renting a mobile in rome (i think it can be organised through the rental agency we're using "cross-pollinate").
Looking forward to the next installment of your trip!

Hi Hagan,

wow, what a trip! I'm sorry you had such bad weather. I am very glad you enjoyed Orvieto, but you didn't do the underground cave tour! You would have been out of the wind and you boys would have loved it. Next time!

Do continue....

Love you report and looking forward to more!

Which Sleep in Italy apartment did you rent?? We have one reserved for May on the same street, it is supposed to be "deluxe" and I am getting worried about the description of yours and its owners!

DAY 8

Our day for Ostia Antica and our last day in Italy. Thanks to Walter, "ParadiseLost" on this board, for his fantastic directions to get there - we followed them to a "T" and had absolutely no problems. The total time from apartment to Ostia was about an hour.
It's really lovely here, a sunny day and fairly mild to start with. The boys climb on and jump off everything in sight, invent contests between themselves, and explore all the maze-like streets. They especially love posing behind headless statues and taking each other's photos. Boys!
We eat a light lunch at the cafeteria there, which is overun with children on field trips, so we're anxious to leave. Around 2 PM, the winds pick up and change direction again, becoming very cold and blustery. Time to leave, as I'm just really tired of fighting these winds - they're actually exhausting, and my ears hurt. Whine, whine, I know, but I'm tired. And we have to pack up for our trip home tomorrow.

Back home, we take showers, have some chianti and are packing when GS1 comes running out from his bedroom saying he can't find his beloved camera. In a panic, we all tear the place apart, crawl on the floors to look under the furniture, but no camera. He's just sick,as we all are. An hour later, DH says "Is this it?" It seems he had scarfed it up from an end table, thinking it was our mini-binoculars in a case. AAARGH! Anyway, relief floods over us and we all have a good laugh.

We walk over to Piazza Navona to see if anything's going on and see a few of the artists who have set up, but there's still not much activity, so we head back to our Campo. We have white pizzas with spinach at an outdoor place, then went for our last gelato at Blue Ice. My chocolate with nuts was scrumptious, the best flavor yet!

At home, we watch "Dealo or No Dealo" one last time and head off to bed.

Unfortunately, this would be our worst sleeping night to date. Most every night, we've had drunken revelers outside until 3 AM. But tonight, there's an argument going on outside between a couple with strong English accents who are screaming at each other at the top of their lungs, shouting obscenities, and then the woman gives out this blood-curdling scream like she's being murdered! We wait to hear police sirens, but evidently no one in the area is concerned. This continues for awhile and then we hear the door into our building slam and they begin coming up the stairs, past our door, screaming and cursing all the while. They go up to the floor above us, slam the door, and then furniture starts flying around and things begin hitting the walls. More shouting and screaming, then a door slams, we hear footsteps descending the stairway, the front door bangs shut, and an alarm on a vespa across from us goes off. At this, the girl gives out a final scream and disappears into the night. Whew! It's after 3 AM and we're WIDE awake, and we have to meet our driver in the Campo by 6:45 in the morning. We think about just staying up, but end up sleeping for a couple of hours.
Tomorrow, the trip home.....

DAY 9

We awaken at 5:30 AM feeling like we're hung-over, very sleep-deprived and in a fog. Wake up the boys, get dressed, grab all our belongings and head out, draggin our luggage down the tiny cobblestone via. The limo was there within 2 minutes.

The driver helped us in, then we began to drive through the Campo when we came upon an outrageously attractive couple locked in a passionate kiss, completely oblivious that there was a car within a foot of them. We expected our driver to honk the horn, but he waited patiently, then finally backed up and went around them. They never moved. Ah, Rome!

We fly Alitalia from Rome to Paris and take off about 30 minutes late. Arrive in Paris, and it's gloomy, raining, very dismal, and I remark to DH that this wouldn't be a good day to visit Paris.
We take the shuttle bus to Terminal 2F, walk through the underground passage to Terminal 2E, arrive at security, and I stop and tell everyone to get their passports out and ready - I have the boarding passes.
GS2 says "I don't have mine, do you have it Nana?" My heart sinks to my toes and we all frantically search everything on us, but no passport. For the entire trip, I've kept their passports and handed them out when needed, but they boarded the Alitalia plane and had to show their passports, so they just kept them on that plane. I figured it was a short flight, they'll have to show them numerous times to get on the plane from Paris, then I'll collect them again. DH says he saw GS2 put the passport in his pocket on the plane. LESSON LEARNED:
Never let your guard down, assume you will be a target at any moment in any crowded place.
I run over to the woman at the security line and tell her grandson can't find his passport and she says "Oh, Dear" and shows us the way to the Air France help desk.
I can't begin to relate the feeling of dread that came down on all of us. After relaying info to this really nice young man, he places several calls to have the plane and shuttle bus searched. Older grandson and I run back the way we'd come, looking everywhere, even between the moving walkways, but nothing showed up.
At this point, the AF agent is telling me we'll have to go to US Embassy on Monday, and that AF will rebook us at no charge for Tuesday flights, but if we can't make those we have to rebook at our expense. My head is reeling, my brain is in both overdrive and frozen at the same time, and I feel like I'm having an out-of-body experience! Then the agent says if hubby and other grandson are going to make the flight they have to leave NOW! I had made the decision to be the one to stay, as I make all the travel arrangements, do all the trip research, hubby just comes along, so I knew it would be easier for me to do it. But when we hurriedly kiss goodbye, he is ashen, looks like he's going to throw up, pass out or both. Older grandson keeps patting younger brother on the back, appears ready to weep. And then they're gone and we are stuck in Paris alone. All alone in a foreign airport.
Younger grandson is fighting back tears, taking deep breaths and saying "I'm such a bonehead!" I try to comfort him but I'm pretty much a mess by this time too. The AF agent works with us for over an hour, giving me the information on the US Embassy, website, etc., and giving me our new itinerary and hand-printed tickets.
I ask about an internet access so I can find a place to stay, and they point me to some machines. But they're out of order. We're directed to try the ones downstairs, so we go there, and THEY'RE out of order. What to do, I'm in panic mode and I need to settle myself down. I keep having images of Tom Hanks in "Terminal" running through my head. I need some comfort here!
So, I decide to take the RER into Paris and try to find a hotel room for us in the area I know best - St. Michel. I know the internet place there, it's convenient for transportation and there's lots of places to eat. We had stayed at Hotel Europe St. Severin on rue St. Severin, just off St. Michel, 3 or 4 years ago, so I decide to try there first.

We get on the train and start off for Paris, and I look at my watch and realize my husband is in the air heading for America. Outside, there's a dark gloom and a steady rain, just what I need. We exit at St. Michel and go to the hotel. They had a cancellation earlier so they can give us a twin room - hooray! We go to our room and try to think what we'll need to get through the next few days. All of our luggage has gone on without us, and grandson's jacket was in it. I don't have so much as a hairbrush on me. Then I realize that tomorrow, my credit card isn't going to work here, because I'd alerted them of the days of our travel before we left. So I try to call out, can't figure out the phone in my foggy state of mind, and head down to the front desk. The girl makes the call for me, and as I'm waiting, I hand my little notebook/journal to grandson to start making a list of what we need.

After giving the credit card rep all the info, she says she needs to speak with my husband as he's the primary cardholder - I want to scream at her, but I stay cool. She puts me through to her supervisor and they relent under the circumstances. OK, we're getting things in order. Calm down.

Grandson hands me the notebook, and after the list, he's written something that he wants me to read. In shaky script, it says "Losing your passport in a French airport and getting stuck in Paris with your grandma for three more days.....priceless!" I know we're going to be OK now, as we share a good laugh.

We head out into the freezing rain and buy the SIXTH stupid umbrella of the trip. On to Champion's grocery down Rue St. Andre des Arts, where we buy toothbrushes, deodorant, child's bubblegum-flavored tooth gel, as Crest is 5 euros (!), a hairbrush, a few cans of coke and a BIG BOTTLE OF WINE FOR THE NANA!
Stop and buy an international phone card so I can call my daughter (his mom) and tell her what's happened, go in one of the clothing stores on St. Michel and buy a men's x-large tee for me to wear to bed and a sweater-shirt for grandson to wear under his hoodie. Want to buy underwear, but at 11 euros a pop, we decide to take two showers a day and make do with what we have.

We're now on a show that's a cross between "Survivor" and "The Amazing Race" and we intend to win. We eat dinner at La Petite Hostellerie on Rue de la Harpe, where the four of us had eaten just last week, and I can barely get a bite down, having a hard time swallowing. I look over the room at where we'd sat last week, and feel an intense homesickness for my husband.
On to the internet cafe, where I go to the US Embassy site and get all the information I'll need to get his new passport, plus an emergency number.

Back at the hotel, I try to use the phone card to call daughter, but I can't get it to work. I go down to the desk 5 or 6 times and they keep trying to get it to work also, but no luck. I'm SO frustrated! Finally, before I turn in for the night, I give it one more try, and just keep putting in the "code" when I hear French words, and it works! The phone is ringing, and there's the answering machine - I have to tell this story to a machine! So I do, and go to bed.
Tomorrow, my French improves as does my spirit!

DAY 10 of a 9-Day trip!

Get up early, take a shower and wash my hair with shampoo/body wash provided by hotel. Go to use hair dryer and it goes "pffft" and stops working. Down to the desk I go once more, and they send me to a room where the people have just checked out to use one, as "no techs work on Sundays". I take the extra key back down to the desk after I dry my hair and ask if they've received any e-mails from my daughter, as I'd told her to send a copy of grandson's passport. Yes, there were 2 messages and she'd tried to print them out, but the printer's not working, and "no techs work on Sundays." ARRRRRRGH! She says she'll forward them to MY e-mail address and then I can go to the internet cafe and download it and print it out. I just want to freak out, but one hour and 4.50 euro later, I have a horribly blurry copy of grandson's passport. I call the emergency number of the embassy and talk to a human male (!) who reassures me that we should have no problem tomorrow, that I have everything in order, and that makes me feel lighter.

On to the police station at St. Sulpice, the only one near here that's open on Sundays, according to the hotel clerk. We walk, as it's finally a nice day, just a little brisk but sunny. We're going to file a police report, just to have everything that could possibly be needed. Only nobody here speaks English. So, with excessive hand gestures and my limited French, we manage to get a stamped report. Just to cover all bases, we walk across the street, step inside St. Sulpice and light a candle.

Now we decide that as long as we're in Paris, we're going to have some fun, and grandson wants to back to see more of the Louvre (!) So we do, and afterward stroll through the Tuilleries, pull up some chairs and sit in the sun, and watch the little boys play with their boats in the pool. We head on to Place de la Concorde to check out the address for the Embassy, as I don't want to run all over looking for it in the AM. Come back to hotel and finally get through to my daughter and my hubby, God it is so good to talk to him. Back outside, we walk and walk through the little streets, have some crepes, then to dinner at Le Menhir, across from hotel. Grandson has a wonderful tartiflette that he wants me to learn to make, and I have Crottinde Chevre, warm goat cheese on toast with salad. Things taste good tonight!

DAY 11 of a 9-day trip

Up early, anxious to get this passport in my hands. Walk over to Paul's and have yummy apricot tarte, which definitely lifts my spirits. Grandson wants hot chocolate, but the machine isn't working - there seems to be a theme here. Get to US Embassy at 8:30, they let us in to start filling out paperwork but the window doesn't open until 9. Have his passport photos taken in machine in waiting area for 4 euros coin only. Processed and paid by 9:10, new passport in hand by 10:10! Now the only hurdle left is making all the flights. We're feeling good, although the stress is showing on grandson and he wants to go back to hotel to sleep!
I go out and buy a new hoodie for him, with "PARIS" in camouflage, cool! And I buy a new top for me. I want something fresh for us for the long trip home tomorrow. I get him up, we have croque monsieurs for lunch, and then we're off to Montmartre. When we get there, the funicular is NOT WORKING (really), so we climb up all of those kabillion steps. But what a view, and it's a glorious day, so we sit on the steps and rest awhile. We even stop to enjoy the "concerts" in the metro stations and we both love the way the sounds echo through the tunnels. Back to the hotel, I have some wine, he some soda, and I get cleaned up. Dinner is at the pizzeria next door, per grandson's request, but I have the cheese plate. Afterwards, we walk across the Seine to take one last look at the Notre Dame, so gorgeous now that she's been all cleaned up - a sight I'll never get tired of seeing.
You know, as we were riding in on the RER a few days ago, when everything had just happened, I was afraid that it would alter the way I felt about Paris, and it made me so sad to even contemplate. But tonight, I realize that I love Paris even more than ever, and the people, down to a person, have gone out of their way to make us feel safe, comfortable and welcome. Today, when we came back to the hotel with the passport, the two girls at the desk cheered and gave us hugs. I will never forget the kindness shown to us. They made a scary situation bearable, and in the end, even fun.

DAY 12, D-Day
Awake before 6, down to buy RER tickets, but no one is manning booths so I try to use a machine with my credit card. Of course, it won't work, doesn't at CDG coming IN to Paris either, and grandson moans "OH NO!" I used all but 11 euros of my cash, just enough to get us breakfast at the airport, so I don't have any for a taxi, and I'm starting to panic when I turn and see the girl open the ticket booth. OK, we're OK. Get to the airport without incident, almost there now.
After a long journey (actually, we had a wonderful flight Paris-D.C.- Dulles on Air France, played games on their entertainment system), that involved 3 flights, we made it back to Daytona Beach at 8 PM and into the arms of our waiting family.
I just hope this helps to let you know what to do in case anything similar ever happens to you while abroad. The clerk at the Embassy said it's becoming extremely commonplace, that a US passport is like "gold in the streets" now and that even if he actually did lose it, most likely someone picked it up to sell it on the blackmarket.
We were lucky, I suppose, that we were in Paris when this happened, as I am most familiar with that city and felt a small degree of comfort there. Also, the Parisiens were absolutely fantastic to us, and we ended up enjoying the last 2 days of our extended stay. I'm sure it's something my grandson will be telling HIS grandchildren about when he's old, because we'll never forget it.
Thanks to all of you who've read this and responded.

Vivi, here's the link to our apartment:
www.sleepinitaly.com/files/apt_cappellari.html

I really can't recommend it due to the fact of the extreme noise and the fact that there's no oven or microwave in the kitchen. We ended up eating almost all of our dinners out, which was not our intention.
The apartment was actually pretty spacious and the sleeping arrangements were good, so it's a shame the owner hasn't gone a little further and updated things a bit. A TV that gets more than one station would have been nice, and a microwave would have been terrific. But the worst part was the noise. We even used earplugs, but they didn't put a dent in it. It literally sounded like the people were in our room!

Hagan - What a great trip report. And the note GS2 wrote you 'priceless'. I am glad everything worked out in the end. Bet your grandsons will have stories to tell for years.

Thank you so much for sharing this with us. Even with all that went wrong, will this be one of your favorite trips?

Tom

Dayle,
We had thought of doing the underground tour, but everything closed down for siesta and didn't reopen for several hours, and we were just too cold to hang around outside. The siesta timing is another important item to remember to work around when you travel in Italy - it caught us off-guard more than once!

Tom,
I'm sure when we've "recovered" from this one, it will indeed be remembered as a favorite trip. We're going to daughter's house Sunday for a cookout and to share pictures, videos and stories and we're looking forward to that. We're anxious to hear what the grandsons have to say about everything now that they're home.
We still have many grandchildren to take on trips (we have nine total), so this was a learning experience for all of us.

Hagan, Thank you for your "priceless" trip report. I will say it again, you are such a cool grandma. Your grandsons are lucky to have you as a nana. I hope you post some pictures.

I am taking my stepdaughter, granddaughter and husband to Paris in May and I hope I do a good job of taking care of them like you did.

Hagan- Thanks for the link, it looks like our apartments may even be in the same building! I am a heavy sleeper so the noise should not bother me but ugh, I hate the thought of stepping over drunks. (I had to do this at our apt on the lovely rue Mouffetard in Paris.)

Vivi,
Our address was 27 via dei cappellari, is that the same as yours?

Really, if you think it's in the same building, I would see if there's another location that's available. I can't stress enough how horrible the noise was. Not only did we have the drunks and fighters at night, but early each morning, there were the carts pulling supplies over the cobbled street up to the little carpentry shops, flinging lumber, making an awful racket. And we did use earplugs, but they didn't help much.
The building is ancient, with open windows on each floor of the stairway overlooking the street, making it difficult to soundproof the apartments. We've never been bothered by noise or sensitive to it, but this was really ridiculous. Please re-check your location if you want to get any sleep during your trip.

Hagan, thanks for sharing this incredible adventure with us. I'm certain you are the "glue" that keeps your family together.

Hagan, you showed incredible fortitude. Bravo, and thank you for telling us all about it.

Anselm

Excellent fun report.

To go back to the weekend of 16-17 March, that Sunday was the day of the final round of the 6-Nations rugby tournament (= 4 countries of the British Isles plus France & Italy). France was playing Scotland in Paris on the 17th (they slaughtered them), so Paris was full to the brim with Scottish fans, hence the kilts.

It's hard to believe we stayed on the same street in Rome. No one in our family had a bit of trouble sleeping on the via dei Cappelleri. The thing I loved about the street/buildngs, is to think that when Michelangelo was haning around Rome, these were the new buildings!

What an adventure with the passport. That will be some story for you to tell to HIS kids one day!

My kids are 16, 14 anbd 11, and I am still the "keeper of the passports" for the entire family. I pass them out, I collect them and zip them inside of another zipper compartment. Sounds like I should keep doing that for a while.

What a travel adventure!! Sure your Grandsons will remember this trip the rest of their lives. Having been to both Rome(in Jan.) and Paris(May) we have been fortunate to be there in weather that was desirable and not on any special holiday or event. I do think the weather and where you stay has a great inpact on the trip, regardless of all the wonderful sites.
Can't imagine having all those problems with the passport. This really made an interesting read and helps us look out for some of the things that can happen regardless of how well planned the trip is. I will return to Italy-Rome, Amalfi Coast, Florence, and Venice in May on an escorted tour. I know this is not what posters on this forum suggest,but it will be good for us this time to move around quickly.

Great report, thanks for posting it with both the good and the "bad". Nice to see how well you coped after the passport incident. You will all have great memories and great laughs over this trip in the years to come.

This is so sweet, it brings tears to my eyes. I can just imagine how your grandson felt. We have had times like that, when just about everthing that could go wrong does. I am so glad it had a happy ending, and now we all know what to do when we loose a passport. Thanks for sharing.

This should be in the Trip Report Hall Of Fame!! Your adventures, calamities, love of your grandkids [who sound like very nice young men indeed] and a terrific writing style made this wonderful to read. Thanks so much for sharing! lynda

In the end....making memories with your grandchildren with lessons learned and a sense of humor: eternally priceless!!

Oh Hagan, a fantastic trip report..the good, the beautiful, the bad and the scarey! I went through so many emotions reading about your trip. And the weather in Italy, I actually got a chill having been in weather like that is so many places in Italy. Bitterly cold doesn't even describe it does it?

And your family, they are precious. Your two grandsons sound adorable. I can only imagine how your GS2 felt regarding the lost passport. But that is one way to have some extra days in Paris with grandma! I was thinking about how worried your poor husband must have been while flying back to the states too.

You are Grandma of the year!! Thank you so much for sharing your trip. And your writing style is fantastic Hagan. Wishing you both many more trips with your grandchildren.

A little epilogue, if you will.

I had taken out trip insurance the day I made the plane reservations last year, "just in case", because with four of us, anything could happen before or during the trip.
I called the morning after I got back home, and it looks like the insurance is going to cover everything, even the cost of the new passport. I just have to make copies of all the receipts for hotel, transportation, food, supplies (personal stuff), and CLOTHING.
RATS! I could have gone shopping in Paris and bought a really smart outfit to wear and didn't even know it. And here we went without underwear! Another lesson learned.

WOW!! Talk about a great ending to the story -- how wonderful.

Wow, what a great report and what an ending. I would have been a total basket case, your "recovery" was spectacular!!!! LOL

Thank you so much for sharing your adventure with us! Your grandsons are very lucky young men to have such a fun and resourceful grandmother - I am sure they will remember this trip always. (Especially the one that got three extra days with you in Paris!)

Wow Hagan,

I can't believe all the things that went wrong for you! It seems all the "bad vacation karma" fell on your heads. Does that mean the Fodorites traveling in the next months are free and clear????

Lots of lessons learned on this one!

Priceless.

I jut booked a trip to London & Paris this week and found the Fodor site. I read some pretty funny threads (like what to wear in Europe and Hagan's great travelogue) and had to join! Will be traveling with husband and 16 yr old daughter. Husband & I have been to London before daughter was born so we are going back with her. Add since were were already there, we're taking the chunnel over to Paris.

I would love to hear of the top 7 must do's for London & Paris.

Your passport experience at the Embassy was surprisingly quick. My husband lost his in Amsterdam - we also went to the police station first, then to the US Consulate. We had to wait a little while, then fill out the forms, then we had to go to a local studio to have pix made, then back to the Consulate... it really took up most of a day, on and off, until we had the passport.

Since then, I carry extra passport photos (from AAA) and a copy of the application and birth certificates, which of course means we will never lose another one.
Our trip insurance also reimbursed for the cost of the new passport.

Hagan,
What a role model for grandmothers you are! Thank you for sharing your adventures and for the helpful advice. My DH and I love Rome and are taking our son and new DIL there in May, when the weather should be better than what you experienced. We are staying near the Pantheon so we were glad to hear that your family enjoyed that area as well.
What a story your grandchildren will have to tell through the years.

Hagen

I'm sorry your trip was such a tough one, but I really enjoyed reading your trip report. We stayed in Rome a while back in the Via Veneto area, and the noise was horrid at night as well, but to make matters worse, our hotel was in a building which was supposed to be sound proof, but there is no way it was! every night around 3am, a man on the floor above us started hacking up ( i think the poor guy has cystic fibrosis, which cant be pleasant for him) but the sounds coming from above were stomach turning. I couldnt eat for 4 days, and ended up falling ill. It was a total nightmare, and ruined my last impression of rome.

I think you should get the " Grandma of the year award" xx

Wow, Lucielou, your experience sounds pretty disgusting! It is amazing how noise levels can affect your attitude towards a place, isn't it? I never gave it much thought, we took earplugs (mainly for snorers), so I thought we'd be fine. But that lack of sleep really gets to you.
I've been trying to get some pictures posted, but it's taking awhile. Maybe by tomorrow.....

Hagan, a good story well told.

I loved GS1 finding the house he will buy someday in Orvieto. Obviously a lad of refined taste and sensibility.

And I'm sure you and GS2 feel bound forever by your shared torment and triumph in Paris.

My addendum to the suggestions of others re: passports - everyone, make a good photocopy (color if you can) of your passport open to the photo, number, info etc. Keep it separate from the passport while traveling (for instance, in a carry on if your passport is in a wallet, or vice-versa.) This is the thing to have if you need to replace a passport - and might even get you through customs in some extreme cases.

Hagan, I took the liberty of pasting a paragraph of yours (with proper credit) on another thread re: rudeness of Parisians. I thought it would be good for people to read this:

<<You know, as we were riding in on the RER a few days ago, when everything had just happened, I was afraid that it would alter the way I felt about Paris, and it made me so sad to even contemplate. But tonight, I realize that I love Paris even more than ever, and the people, down to a person, have gone out of their way to make us feel safe, comfortable and welcome. Today, when we came back to the hotel with the passport, the two girls at the desk cheered and gave us hugs. I will never forget the kindness shown to us. They made a scary situation bearable, and in the end, even fun.>>

Tomas,
Feel free to use any part of my report. I told my grandsons that if they EVER hear anyone bashing the French for rudeness, they are obligated to come to the country's defense! And they agreed.

As for using a copy of a passport to get through customs, that won't work in this day and age. We had several copies of our passports with us, but they were in our luggage which was on the plane! However, the man at the US Embassy told us they really didn't even need the copy, they could do it all with just the number and pull up what they needed with the computer.

Good to know. Maybe we should stitch our passport # into the waistbands of our underwear like going to camp! You'd always have it with you ...

Your story sent me to the dresser drawer to discover that I have just 6 months left with my current passport. I wonder if I'll have it stamped again before then ... ?

We were away about the same time as you , Hagan, and I somehow missed your report.

Sounds like the trip , even with the cold and noise was a success... memories for all of you that will be treasured and passed on. I'll second your nomination as Nana of the year.

We had some of the same weather in London, a glorious 5 days then rain and WIND the last 5! The Lonodoners told us it was coming when they heard about the storms in NY and NE.

I've always found the French polite, helpful and accomodating, I wonder when others talk of their rudeness. We stay in pretty much the same area of Paris as you, and just talking about Paul makes me hungry for a baguette and a lemon tart. My DH loves the funny older ,short waitress, Germaine. She is so French and always has a twinkle in her eyes.

Glad to have the info on the Daytona/Paris flights, I've been finding better fares from DB than from MCO for this fall and since I like AF ,too , I might try to figure out some transport to and from Winter Park to Daytona.

Have you thought of using the DOTS shuttle? The downside is it's really expensive, but if you travel alone, not so bad.
Hey, just let me know when you're going and I'll take you there and pick you up. From one fodorite to another!

Sounds like your grandkids learned a valuable lesson - it pays to be flexible when traveling!!!

The weather sounds like it was really awful. That is a bummer.

We rented in Camp and yes it is loud - but that's Rome! It's a noisy city. I think that's partially because the buildings are relatively low for such a busy city. If you were in NY you'd be on the 15th floor - so the noise wouldn't be such an issue.

We loved all the hustle and bustle though. My teens loved it to. Maybe because we live in such a quiet (and to them that = boring) place at home. It never felt disgusting - it just felt Italian.

We just can't wait to return to Rome. And I'd stay in Campo de Fiori again in a heartbeat.

If you werer renting MY apartment in New York you'd be on the 6th floor - and on a pretty noisy street. Not the worst, but it's a commercial cross street, so there are buses, refrigerated trucks idling, SIRENS, people leaving restaurants and bars who sing down the street ... sometimes it feels like they're in the apartment. Oh, by the way, I'm looking to swap with someone in Rome - after that big buildup, any takers?!

Hagan, thanks for sharing this wonderful story! Isn't it funny how sometimes the biggest disasters make for the best memories?

Your report also brought back many memories of a trip I made with my grandmother to the Middle East. I speak from experience when I tell you that your grandsons will treasure these memories for ever. And, if they are like me, will talk about them with anyone who will listen for years to come!

Thanks again. I, too, eagerly await your photos.

Fabulous report! Knowing the players personally brought your words to life and laughter. Can hardly wait to talk to DH and GSs! Are photos soon to follow? xoxo K

This was wonderful to read, you should indeed be grandma of the year!!!

Hagan, For a while now, I've been thinking of taking our two grand-daughters, ages 9 and 12, to Europe with us. Your report was most enlightning.

mkdiebold, Hagan's photos are here:

www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34976786

Anselm

Saw the photos and they are great!
Thanks again, for a terrific report.

Seems there are a lot of CFL's that want a GTG...so let's plan something!

Joyce, Thoroughly enjoyed reading each and every word of your report. When I got to the part about your credit card, I literally yelled, "OH, NO!" at the computer.

You're right; this will be a trip your grandchildren will fondly remember, even with the unexpected "extension." (Loved 'Day 11 of 9 day trip'

Your husband and your grandsons are SO blessed to have you! You have shown that problems can be resolved once you accept the situation at hand. I'm sure many, many people would have verbally attacked someone for a lost or stolen passport. Some would have continued to berate the child for days to come, creating such a nightmare situation. Thanks for demonstrating "grace under pressure"!

Great pictures, J -
I note that GS2 has a Franco-Italian look about him, could have been taken for a local boy.
Their GM, for her part, may have been taken for their dear mother.
I checked the latin inscription on that stone across from your apartment, via an online translator.
Domus is house, of course.
Haereditatis was more elusive - the closest version I found is hereditas, which is "inheritance" or simply "property". So maybe that stone has something to do with settling a disputed inheritance, declaring for one and all that the house is included. From there we could write a novel. Now, is it ancient, medieval, renaissance? Somewhere in Rome someone knows ...

Thanks for the unabashed voyueristic pleasure.

Hagan, I truly enjoyed your trip report. I am sorry you had to surmount so many obstacles.

I first came across the thread with your photos. They are lovely! But I realized looking at the pic of your DH in the living room of the apartment in Rome, that it is the one we have rented for our trip in late May! Now I am very worried. You did mention that you and DH slept in the living area. Do you think it was any quieter in the bedroom?

We traveled last spring break to Germany with my DD who was 17 at the time. We expected 40's and 50's as per the historical data. Wow, we arrived to lots of snow and temps below freezing most of the trip. I agree that I would think long and hard before going in March again.

I have also been struggling with the carry-on dilema. We are flying Air France as well, so your info was extremely helpful.

I am glad all worked out in the end, but I am not sure I would be able to keep a clear head, as you did. You really handled everything so well. Your family is lucky to have you.
H

Phieaglefan,
Yes, I believe the bedroom was considerably more quiet than the front room. However, the boys did report being unable to sleep on several nights due to people "moving furniture around", according to them.

Just be sure to note that the apartment really doesn't have an oven of any kind, no microwave and no real oven to heat anything up. There was only the toaster/broiler type of contraption that evidently tripped the circuit breaker! That was a real drawback for us, as we had bought several dinners to heat up and had to throw them out. If you read my trip report, you know all about the power outage we experienced an hour after we got there!
I did write to sleepinitaly.com about the problems when we returned but never heard a thing back from them. That really disappoints me. This was supposed to be a "deluxe" apartment, I can only imagine what a lesser standard must be like!
You might want to write to them and tell them you've heard that there's no oven in the apartment and see what they have to say. And you saw the pictures, and the pitiful little TV on the floor with only one station, and that pretty snowy! I didn't think we'd even need a TV, but with the horrible weather, we were in the apartment more than I'd thought. It would have been nice to get more than one station. And bring cards from home - we had to pay 8 euros for a deck from a tabacchi shop one rainy night.
The beds were actually very comfortable, and we could have slept well if not for the interminable noise from the street below. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.

Tomas.....
Thank you SO very much for the wonderful compliment to this grandmother! And yes, you are right, GS2 definitely could have been mistaken for a local. The boys' father is Cuban, and their mom (our daughter) is Irish-German, so quite a combination. GS1 looks more like his mother, but the younger one is all hispanic in his features. I'm not sure he noticed the similarity, however.

One thing about the sleep issue:
Even though you may have slept better in Paris, it's not unusual for the time difference to hit a few nights into the trip - so the noise you experienced in Rome could have been all you needed to make your bodies think "I'm supposed to be awake now ..." since back home it was a lot earlier. When something gets my motor going at that hour, it can ruin the night as far as sleep is concerned.

I had a hotel room in Paris where the problem was the deadly silence - a back room, double glazing, etc, and a nice, quiet hotel. I could hear myself think, and that was after I went to bed, and I was thinking a mile a minute. I had to make myself a white noise machine by turning the TV to a non-station and covering the screen with a towel to darken it. Whatever it takes!

An amazing report Hagan on an amazing journey. Well done for coping so brilliantly, what a terrible shock for you. Your photos are great too, the boys look like a lot of fun. I laughed at some of your comments regarding the boys as I have a 16 year old and could relate to the stubborness! Great reading, thanks for the laughs and the gasps!! Schnauzer

Hagan, You've had so many wonderful responses, so I truly appreciate you responding to mine.

We are scheduled to be in the apartment for the first 3 nights of our trip. We generally stay awake all of arrival day, so I am not too worried about the first night, now the next two might be a problem.

Do you think most of the noise was from inside the building? Or was more of it from out on the street? I guess I'd be more concerned about the noise inside, as that is more likely to be a constant.

Frankly, the oven and TV are not issues for us. I have no plans to cook anything except perhaps coffee (was there a coffee maker?) in the apartment. We're renting because there are three of us and the hotels in favored areas of town were very expensive.

Did you have any problems using a hair dryer or any other electronics? At least we now know where the circuit breaker is, and I'll be sure to pack a small flashlight.

Thank you again for taking the time to fill me in. I think I will print your report and re-read it just before we go! And I will report back as to whether the owner has fixed the tv (ha!).
H

Phieaglefan,
Just remember the breaker box is behind a painting just to the right of the entry door! There's no coffeepot, we just boiled water in a pan and used instant coffee that someone before us had left there. I believe there was one of those tiny expresso pots that I don't know how to use.

As for the noise - nearly every night, except the first two when it was raining heavily, there was a group of people directly outside our building. I'd say there were 6-8 people, very drunk and very loud, and they congregated there for an hour or two in the wee hours of each morning, between 1 and 3 AM. I really don't know WHERE they came from.
The noise inside came from that one couple who started arguing OUTSIDE, then came inside and began throwing the furniture around. I'm not sure, but I suppose that's what the boys heard in their bedroom, as well.
Also, between 6 and 7 AM each morning, there's a lot of noise as carts hauling supplies to the little shops along the street jostle down the cobblestones and throw pieces of lumber into the furniture restorer's shops. But I quietly smiled at that, as I could imagine the noise was very similar three or four hundred years ago. If we could have figured out how to keep the fan on continuously in the heating/cooling window unit, it would have helped, but we couldn't get it to work.

We brought our foreign converter and plugs along, and used this in the bathroom to plug in the hairdryer - no problems there.

The noise problem is so unfortunate, because the apartment really has some charming and delightful features. I sure wish you luck and hope that some of this could be attributed to the many spring breakers in town at that time. Please let me know if I can be of any further help.

I assume you are a wonderful example to your grandchildren. Your trip report is incredible because it seemed like an incredible trip! YIKES.

Gonna go back someday?

Suzie,
Oh yes we'll go back, if our finances and health hold out! We still have many more grandchildren to do this with, so there's no retiring for us.

My memory suddenly returned to something I read a few years ago - I hunted a little, and found it in Elizabeth Bowen's A TIME IN ROME (1960).

She writes that in ancient Rome, the law forbade wheeled traffic in the city by day.

"This mean that everything, everything, was unpent at nightfall. Wagons and chariots surged through tortuous streets (which were sounding boxes), colliding and interlocking, desperately racing against cockcrow. The struggle to be extricated from Rome, head on against those who were forging into it, took place - when there was not a moon - in darkness: there was no street lighting. The streets, where intermissions in traffic made this possible, were accordingly given over to crime and lust. Respectable citizens bolted themselves in and retired early; through the chinks in their shutters there now and then entered a whirling ruddiness - torches conveying nefarious pleasure-parties. And more threatening glares, also, disturbed the worthy: houses were constantly bursting into flames. A dropped lamp or kicked-over brazier could be enough; dwellings were esy tinder."

Thought I'd throw in a little about the houses (ancient Rome had the world's original tenement apartment buildings of up to 4 and 5 stories)just to give the tiniest amount of perspective re: apartment living in Roma today!

Tomas, what a beautiful passage - thank you so much for sharing! And it's still much the same today, making it feel even more "ancient." Indeed the carts' wheels still echo through the tiny cobblestone lanes.

Hagan,

Thanks again. I appreciate the specific info on the breaker! I am not too worried about the morning noise, unless of course, I've been up all night. I think I'll pack a few Ambien, just in case.

I am glad to hear the apartment was pleasant otherwise. I looked at Hotels, but they just can't compete with apartments price and location wise.

Tomas, thanks for the quote. I've seen photos of the street this aparment is on, it's not difficult to visualize the ancient scene.

H

thanx Hagen & Kerouac for the explanation of those guys in kilts in Paris. We were there on spring break the week up to March 17, and didn't know what was up with the kilts.
Our potential bad experience was when one of my credit cards stopped being accepted: it turns out that the company decided all those charges from France were dodgy (my daughter & I did serious shopping). Luckily I had other cards. I called when I got home and they said next time to let them know in advance if I was going to charge a lot overseas.