Our trip to Paris,amalfi and Rome,sept 11 to oct 3.

So far, so good, José! Don't worry about mistakes, no one who matters cares!

Before installing the Paris report,I will finish the section of "logistics",with comments on our hotel in Rome:
--Hotel in Rome: Ara Pacis Hotel, via Vittoria Colonna.
Mmmmmm mixed feelings!!!!
--Good: LOCATION; we walked everywhere, very safe zone, close to anything;200 meters from the shuttle bus stop to the airport(we were 6 persons on the bus; ticket 7.50 euros each!!!).Breakfast is good, bread, pastries, meats, honey, variety of coffee from a machine, juices from another machine.
--Bad: the hotel looks really “old” or “tired”, but rooms are clean if definitely small and bathrooms are also old,.
Not a disaster, but at 160 euros we expected much more.Will we return? No, better look for other hotels with more time, we are sure there are better value for the money out there.

--First Week: PARIS.
This is our fifth visit to Paris; and we intend to walk everywhere, stopping at will, enjoying the city.
-Day One,saturday(September 11th):We arrived at Orly West after a 14 hours flight(with a transfer at T4 in Madrid); not so tired and really happy of returning to Paris after 14 years.
We took Orlyval, RER B and a taxi to our hotel in Rue Monge, and in a matter of minutes after check in we were out to explore rue Monge, and we walk to Blvd. S. Michel, Notre Dame(organ music, a pleasure, really moving).I can think about the persons at the cathedral centuries ago, illuminated by candles and hearing this music…they should have felt the presence of something superior…
A very good experience; then we proceed to Ile de S.Louis, plenty of tourists!!, then,to the Pont Neuf to see the place where we will, any day, take our boat to cruise the Seine.
Back to the hotel and a stop a Carrefour, and what a surprise!! Prices are quite normal…and quality is generally very high.
We have a window towards Arenes De Lutece,and tonight there is some kind of show, but we didn’t hear anything and slept very well!!
-Day two,sunday:have breakfast at the hotel,and start to walk rue Monge,searching for the market in rue Mouffetard,but previously we go the Mosque,take a look at gardens(somewhat like the ones at the Alhambra),then to rue Mouffetard,really nice with a sunday market where we tasted cheeses,bread and let the time goes by..,all fruits and products really fresh and at reasonable prices.
Being near to two important churches, we go to Saint Medard and Sainte Genevieve(sp?),attend the mass and hear the organ, and a woman singing really well…the presence of many youngs call our attention, as we are not used to see much teenagers at our churches…
Our steps took us to the Panteon(closed),anyway we enjoyed the views and sunbath a little at the stairs(a beautiful day…sunny).
We proceed to Jardins de Louxembourg, one of our preferred places in Paris,and as usual we seated near the flowers, look at the sparrows and well fed pigeons,take some pictures,and talk when we met 35 years ago and when we married,almost 33 yars now…we didn’t then think that we will ever visit Paris…5 times…
Being lunch time we went to the Latin quarter,where there are dozens of cheap restaurant and select Le Marathon; we ask for the “menus”.DW asks for moules mariniere, grilled chicken and ice cream,I go with soupe a l’oignon, steak au poivre and apple tart, rosé wine and water,of course bread is delicious, 32 euros, not bad at all….
We walk towards Musee du Louvre and rue de Rivoli( shopping starts), Visit la Madeline and L’Opera, then come back through le Palais Royal and take a look(just a look) at Le Grand Colbert and Le Grand Vefour…mmmmm who knows?, if there is a sith visit may be we dare…
Near 8 pm we are caming back to the hotel and day 2 is gone…

Enjoying your report - always love to read about Paris! Thanks for sharing.

ttt

Wonderful! DH and I have been married 31 years and are 1 ahead of you in trips to Paris but I'm loving reading about your trip! Agree how nice it is to take time to savor things after those first "I must see everything NOW" trips.

More Please!

-Day three, Monday: We buy a Metro carnet(10 tickets) ,and easily arrived a rue Lepic;then, started our walk at Montmartre, enjoyingPlace du Tertre the Basilica; and the views, of course.
The views from Montmartre are always glorious, and we seated at the stairs,looking at all the tourists(many from China and Japan of course).
We came back to Place du Tertre to buy some souvenirs,and a memory card for my camera(I forgot one at home); 2 gigas at 20 euros…arghhhhhh.Then,we start our descent, and suddenly DW sees ….bargains….shopping mode for one hour(real bargains for her),and we go to Moulin Rouge and take Rue Lepic one more time, arriving at Café des Moulins(remember Ameli Poulin?)..Our lunch is baguettes and tarte aux poires, on the go; and we return to the hotel
After a little nap, on the road again; for a visit to Sephora and Mac(dear niece,(DN),Fatima,a fashion design student, hear that we were going to Paris,Paris being his second preferred city,the first is New York, and give us a long list of the cosmetics she “absolutely” needs, otherwise, her life will be ruined.
Can you sense the aroma of burnt euros?????..
We take a light dinner and the day is over.
-Day four,Tuesday :took the Metro to Invalides and started a long walk though Invalides, Eiffel Tower,Trocadero, Av. Kleber, Arc de Triomphe,Champs Elysees,Concorde, Tuilleries, Forum des Halles, Centre Pompidou, boul Sant Michel to the hotel.
We enjoyed the tower almost without lines, as it is relatively early, suddenly,a young couple starts to run chasing one of the million of immigrants selling little Eiffel Towers; they have been so naïve as to give him a camera and asked him to take a picture!!!!; of course, no picture, no camera, no police(gerdarmerie is present, but they do nothing, as, I suppose,they are here only to prevent terrorism).Poor young couple, a bad and expensive moment!!!).
At the Trocadero DW took a funny picture of me hugging one of those giant Michelin inflatables on show.
Looking for a place to lunch(we finally have lunch at Quick Burger, good hamburgers with crispy onions); we find a Starbucks, where there used to be a beautiful Café, where ,in the past, we had pastries we will never forget.
We like Starbucks, but we regret we cannot have those tarts aux poires that were really sublime!!!
We really have very good moments resting at the chairs at Tuilleries, people watching and inspecting some sculptures, very funny that were on show on the gardens.
When we reach the Saint Michel area, we are really tired and we look for a table outdoors, overlooking the Seine and Saint Michel, ask for two cappuccinos(11 euros), and have a great moment, people watching, resting and talking about our preferred city .
Its incredible how much we love this city, and how much we love to remember what we did in very previous visit.

We happened to be in Paris around the same time you were and I have to agree---it is incredible how much we also love Paris and how we like to remember our previous visits.

Good report. Looking forward to the Italy part.

Too bad about the camera scam. You guys have been doing some serious walking!

After 14 years, quite a few things must have changed, yet the overall look of the city remains admirably stable.

-Day five, Wednesday: Today, we will visit some places we have never been previously, Jardin des Plantes and Bastille.
An easy walk from the hotel and we arrived at Jardin Des Plantes, a beautiful place, very quiet.We arrived at the Seine and walk in the left bank; following the signs for a garden of sculptures.Really disappointing…nobody takes care, statues are very few and ugly….Paris has better attractions…
Then, we proceed to Bastille, and we saw the signs remembering those fallen in the insurrection of the Police de Paris in WW2,really moving.

Took some pictures of the Column at Bastille Square ,and go towards Place des Vosges…almost alone, we take seat and enjoy the views, magnificent architecture …

We continue walking,and DW finds shoes for sale!!!!!!…mandatory stop and some bargains are added to our luggage.We go to the hotel to left the new shoes and start our evening stroll to Laduree(thé a la rose for DN, this girl knows the good things of life!!!!); then we stop at Fauchon in order to buy a “surprise” for DN…a beautiful box of bombons, illustrated with monuments of Paris!!!
We visited Printemps and Gal.Laffayette; buy Laduree macarons as a desert for tonight and have fun seeing the japan tourists enterin Louis Vuitton stand….those persons were really desperate…and they come out with 2 or three bags each!!!!! Out of our reach..jaja

Macarons are really good,may be on the “too sweet” side….but this is what I like; but if I must choose macarons or italian gelato…. Gelattoooooooooooooo

-Day six,Thursday:Its 9 in the morning and we are out,
to start our day at rue Montorgueil.Rue Montorgueil has a good open air market,but my big interest originates in Monet’s “rue Montorgueil”, as I am a fan of both Monet and of this particular paint,a symphony in bleu,blanc and rouge.
We walk through Montorgueil street, beautiful market, then a visit to forum des Halles ,S.Eustache church,and at at 1 pm we take our Seine cruise in the “Vedettes du Pont Neuf”.It is very cold, but we resist in the upper(open) part of the boat.Another perspective of Paris, unforgettable, really not to be missed( buy your tickets on the web, save 5 euros each and skip the lines, as there is a special window for internet tickets).When we return, on the Pont Neuf there is a plaque about Jaques de Molay, last Master of the Templars being burnt here.I found interesting that the name of Jaques de Molay has survived, and nobody cares about the French king that killed him and other Temple Knights in order to take their treasures.
Luch is chicken baguettes and fruits, and we take the Metro to Rodin’s Museum.Beautiful museum, not so big, with all the marvelous works from Rodin and other artists,and you should not miss a visit to the gardens, sublime.
Being near rue Cler we visit just another street market and return to B.S.Michel; a Caffé offers coffe and creppes beurre sucre at 2.50….we took a table and let almost one hour go by ,people watching and enjoying the creppes, they are really good, and we feel at paradise just by doing nothing….

Days seven and eight: Friday, Saturday: Friday,Today we start at the Metro to La Defense,a very special place that we like to visit.The views special, and we like the change of atmosphere, related to the old Paris.
Metro back to Arc de Trimphe, another walk at Champs Elysees and we head toward rue Bonaparte(mmmm window shopping at its best),then a visit to the churches of S.Germain des Pres and S.Sulpice(take a look at the meridien, depicted by D.Brown in his famous novel).(more on meridians in Rome)
We come back to the hotel via S.Michel monument(outdoor table,2 cokes 11.50….).
Saturday: at 9 am, the van is in front of the hotel to take us to the airport for our flight to Napoli, going to Amalfi.

We are leaving Paris thinking that many things change, tourists arrive from all over the world, but the city remains as wonderful and romantic as ever…,and this time was special for us…we walk and walk, enjoy monuments, views and people watching, but we never feel hurried, we decided this must be a trip to enjoy at our pace, without the pressure of “ 2 churches and 3 museums a day”… we walk a lot but we don’t run..at it worked!!!! Also in Italy….but this is too much long and I am boring everydoby….nexy instalment:Amalfi coast…

Amalfi Coast:

--Day One,arrival fromParis via Napoli/Sorrento:
Easy Jet flight from Paris started and ended with a delay of more than one hour. Outside the airport, we take the Currieri bus to Sorrento, for a beautiful trip, and connected with the SITA bus for the Sorrento-Amalfi leg of the trip. Everything went ok, and we arrived to Amalfi at 8 pm (pouring rain!!!!) .We arrived at Sharon House B&B wet but happy, did our check in, went to a supermarket next door to buy prosciutto,bread, juice and fruits and return to dine in our excellent room, take a shower and sleep in the hope that tomorrow we will have a better climate.The transfer via Currieri/ Sita is reliable and cheap, but takes at least 4 hours plus waiting time for the next bus in Napoli and Sorrento.
--Day two:Amalfi
We wake up to a sunny day!!!Breakfast is excellent and we start our day with a visit to the Cathedral then, return to S.H. to change to our shorts and capris and we take a walk to know the city; really small but charming with cobblestone streets, alleys and passages
That take the tourists back to ancient times.No steps or very little,we are happy of our selection of Amalfi as our base for this week.We walk to the near village of Atrani(almost part of Amalfi, going south),with excellent views, we visit the church of S.Magdalena, and seat in a little square in front of the church.There is a old man and we chat some time, and really enjoyed the conversation(my Italian roots are starting to grow inside me).Lunch is at the Grand Caffé, in open air at the lungomare; 1 pizza,1 bruschetta,2 beers,20 euros.
We take a nap, then walk to the port ,buy our multi day passes for the Sita bus( this ended being a real bargain, as we used Sita as hop on hop off for all the A.C.),look at the mountains,the old cemetery,and,as rain is starting again,we go to the hotel,to dress for a (free!!!) piano concert at the old church(really good,plus we also take a look at many ruins they are excavating).
--Day Threeorrento.
Small rain, and we decided to go to Sorrento(start using our passes),a trip of 2 hours after breakfast proved too much for poor DW, she experiments motion sickness, but recovers quickly.We walk in Sorrento, really like the city, did some window shopping as all shops are closed 1pm to 4 pm, and return to Amalfi.
We rest a little and take our routine walk in Amalfi, searching for a restaurant.Selection for dinner is Il Chiostro,we go for the 20 euros fixed menu( bread, marinated anchovies, the best olives in our life; spaghetti ai vongoli for DW and schalatelli marinara for me; grilled fish for DW and scalopes with lemon sauce for me, fruit for DW and sorvette di limoncello for me,a garrafe of white wine,4 euros , for a total of 44 euros.One of the best meals in Amalfi,excellent food and wine,and a cozy place!!!

--Day four: Positano and Ravello.
Start the day going to Positano.Panoramic views, good driver in the bus and a beautiful place to visit.Expensive also, everything is more expensive than in Amalfi.
We walk the alleys, enjoy the views, visit Sta Maria Assunta, do some window shopping and return(standing) to Amalfi.We had a light lunch and took the red(open top) bus to Ravello(the trip, one way, is free with the 3 day pass for the SITA busses).
The city of Ravello is amazing,and views are unique.We visit Villa Ruffolo, walk a little in the city and decide that “Villa Cimbronne is just another villa” and didn’t go there(more on this later).Villa Ruffolo is charming, for the views and the gardens, and we are sorry we missed the season for the concerts.
We think the visit to Ravello is a must for anyone visiting the A.C.
Returning to Amalfi, we meet our new love Dolceria Savoia…..mmmmmm…..best dolci and gelatti in Amalfi.
We became regulars, and until our last day, we went there to buy some pastries, and after dinner to have our gelatti.Pastries are not expensive, and gelatti are relatively cheap,at 2.50 euro each,two flavors and really big.
Dinner is another hit: restaurant and pizzeria Sant’ Andrea, just by the stairs of the Cathedral.We seated in open air,with views to the square of the city,temperature is good and pizza Margheritta(for DW) is excellent and my Antipasto Assortitto is… mmm …out of this world.Olives are as good as ever(some six are included with the antipasto..je je….wait for more news).
--Day Five: We started in Salerno, arriving early,and we were able to do some shopping for DW and DN.We come back to Amalfi, then go to the Grotta dello Esmeraldo..so so,5 euros each…not to go there twice..
Then,DW suggests..what if we go to Ravello to take a look at Villa Cimbronne?…right on target!!!!!
We go to Ravello, then to Villa Cimbronne and enjoyed the best views of the A.C. even better than the views in Villa Ruffolo…beautiful gardens, Terrazzo dello Infinito, a real hot spot not to be missed, definitely not “another villa”.
--Day Six: Pompeii.
We took the bus for our tour at Piazza Flavio Gioia; and before arriving at the highway, we went south, to pick up other persons.
In less than one our we arrived at Pompeii, buy our tickets and start the visit…very interesting…another place you cannot miss if you are in the A.C.
We have lunch in Pompeii(as did everyone in the tour), lasagna, white wine, ice cream.13 euros each, at the restaurant Tiberius.
We returned to Amalfi,rest a little,walk the city,and have a light dinner and dolci and gelatti at Savoia(you see a pattern here?).
--Day Seven:Capri.
We took the ferry to Capri,via Positano(this is the way to see Positano!!!!).We have been to Capri many years ago,and we enjoyed it as if we have never been there.We wento to Capri,Anacapri,Piazzetta,August’s Gardens…take a look at hotel_Quisisana and the luxury shops in the neighborhood,have some gelato, and rounded a very good day returning to amalfi and having dinner at Ristorante Sant’ Andrea again.This time DW had ravioli panna e prosciutto(yummy, creamy, she even shared one with me!!!!),and I have(once again) antipasto assortito,but I tell the waiter that “here in Amalfi olives are soooo god”, and here comes my antipasto with as many as 12 or 14 olives!!!!!! As usual,no dessert,we pay some 30 euros(beers inclusive) and go to Savoia for gelatti.Passegiatta and return to the hotel to prepare all things for our departure to Napoli(car transfer) and then to Rome(train).

The A.C. has been an unforgettable experience for us, we found people to be extremely nice,very “italian”, welcoming, open, willing to help….and the views and food cannot be missed.
Tomorrow we will go to Rome,a city we visited in 1981….big expectations…as the bar keeps rising after Paris and the Amalfi Coast.

I am loving your report, brings back many good memories . Looking forward to reading about the rest of your fabulous trip.

We couldn't believe how winding the road was! Back to Paris, we have not visited La Defense yet. Are there many shops there or more businesses?

tdk320n:
Thanks for your comment! Rome to follow this week.

TDudetteid you see the SITa drivers on those winding road? They are able to drive,smoke,talk on the cell phone and have a conversation with a friend in the bus!!!
Related to La Defense: We like the views,La grande Arche and yes,there is a huge shopping mall including everything you need or want;restaurants,boulangeries and patisseries also.

ROME.

--Rome,day one:
Its saturday,and at 8 15 a.m. we left Sharon house to pick up our private transfer Mercedes to Napoli;our driver ,Andrea, is professional, very friendly, and took us though Pogerola and Agerola, some 1000 metres or so high, for really unforgettable views on the A.C.
As you can guess the trip in a Mercedes is really comfortable, and we reach Napoli without any troubles and perfectly on time for our train to Rome.
The trip is uneventful,and lasts only 2 hours.We arrive at Termini,go to the taxi line and wait some 5 minutes in line.Arrived at Hotel Ara Pacis, we found it so so, but location is superb.
We register,go to our room and quickly leave for a little exploration of the zone, and into the Vatican.
Some two or three blocks from the hotel is Piazza Cavour, where we see a bus stop for the Airport bus(a real bargain and very convenient).
We go to Vatican city(not Saint Peter),Castel Sant’Angelo,Via del Corso,Via Condotti,Piazza Spagna, and Piazza del Poppolo, where there is a concert backed by Coca Cola and MTV(lots of young people, good ambiance).Via del corso,Via Condotti and Piazza Spagna are full of both locals and tourists, and everybody seems happy and in good mood.We just walk and people watch, in appreciation of the good location of our hotel and taking mental notes of attractions to visit.
We dine 1 pasta,1 pizza and two beers for 25 euros,and this is all for today.

ttt

Wonderful, thank you. Your English is perfect!

--Day Two(sunday): After an early wake up and breakfast, around 8.45 am we are our way to the Vatican.It is an easy and pleasant walk, and when arrived, we found a short line to security checks.After waiting in line some 10 minutes, we are admitted to Saint Peter.
We have been there in 1981…and now it looks somewhat bigger and more massive..glorious anyway!!!
First stop is at my favourite sculpture in the world,La Pietá; moving, perfect, think it is far better than the Moses or the Extasis of S.Therese.A few days later, we come back for a second visit to S.Pietro and La Pietá.
We stop by all chapels, admire the art there, specially Bernini’s Baldaquino, and hear Mass,a real experience.
We stay some 2 hours inside S.Peter, and when we exit,the line for admission goes all around the square!!!! I think that some some people will have to wait in line no less than 2 hours or even more; its always good arrive early to such a big attraction.
Then, we start one of our long and pleasant walks: Via della Conciliazione, crossed the Tevere at Vittorio Emanuele bridge, via giulia(in front of the church of San Giovanni dei fiorentini we crossed Mr Giulio Andreotti,former Italy Premier) we take a look at the gardens of Palazzo Farnese and we arrive at piazza Campo dei Fiori.


Campo dei Fiori is a beautiful square, full of history and the place for a tipycal food market(but not on sundays!!).At the center of the square is placed the monument to Giordano Bruno, a priest convinced of the heliocentric theory, was subjected to a “trial” and burned at this very same site.The monument is very “dark”, but always surrounded of young people, which brings some joy to and otherwise terrible murder, because a murder it was.
An interesting fact is that the president of the trial also was president at the trial of Galileo Galilei, a few years later.
From Campo dei Fiori, we went towards the Church of Gesú(Jesus Church) notorious for the baroque art one can find there, really beautiful, something not to miss when in Rome.
Then,to piazza Venezia, Vittorio Emanuelle monument (yes, the so called typewriter, but let me tell you that we really like it),another walk and we are at the Panteon, one of my favorite places in Rome, moving, an example of excellent architecture ,and the site for the grave of the great Raffaello.We took some pictures and search for some place to lunch,something light and simple:chicken salad, capriciosa salad, bruschetta, mineral water euros 24.
A visit to Santa Maria Sopra Minerva and later we arrived to piazza Colonna in our route to Trevi.
You can see that we have commited to visit almost every church we find on the route.This is because Italian churches are a real marvel, much more beautiful than
In any other country.May be they are not very impressive in their exterior, but inside, they are, almost all, real masterpieces.
When nearing Fontana di Trevi (some 50 metres from the fountain,you can really hear the water),we found a new love: Blue Ice, a Gelatteria that sells the best gelatto you can savour.
It becames a matter of loyalty for us to return every afternoon to taste a new flavor( cappuccino,amaretto,amarena,zabaglione,cassata,nociolla….really big, creamy and 2 euros a cone, with your choice of two flavors).
Trevi is a melting pot of people, color, costumes and languages!!!!..a place we also visited every day..always full, always a little different..full of tourists, but all having a great time.

Then we proceed to the maremagnum of via del Corso shared by cars and pedestrians,chaotic,you can bet…but so italian and funny!!
Then via Condotti towards the Spanish Steps; wow!, for us it is window shopping at its best, for many japans and russians it is simply a shopping mall at its best,believe me,they are buying 1000 euros shoes or 2000 euros bags without any problem!!!
The Louis Vuitton shop has a lcd staircase that is the joy of any person walking the street.
An you can guess how the ambiance is at Piazza Spagna: al the world seems to have concentrated here, Carabinieri look as if they are fashion models, we seat at thes teps and have a great time looking around and thinking of how fortunate we are of being there.
It is an easy walk back to the hotel,and you will see,we never used any public transportation when in Rome,it is so easy to walk,to get lost and to enjoy each little street!!!

Great report. I agree with you about the treasures of Roman churches--always a surprise inside. What a nice combination of places and time you had: a week in Paris, a week in the AC and a week in Rome. I could handle that!

Leely2:
I am sure you can handle a trip like ours!!!!Believe me,it was great,never hurried,just at leisure.And our choice was to take it easy,taking long strolls,feeling the cities...mmm I think I will start to plan a new itinerary!!!,this time for 2011,as in 2010 we are going to Spain to visit some relatives of DW(who is a native spaniard).

--Day Three(monday):
We with an early and long visit to Piazza Navona.We arrived at 8.30 am, and found the Piazza absolutely empty(of course, there are some waiters preparing the outdoor tables, but nothing more), we are the owners!!
Is this the most beautiful square in the world? At least it should qualify between the 2 or 3 “ best in the world”.
Having the square for us is magical, we enjoy every corner, every detail in the magnificent fountain, we seated to enjoy the early morning, with a perfect temperature, and in 30 minutes, the multitude comes in, and everything changes, with absolute peace leaving place to joy and a babel of languages.
Then,we walked the Corso , and we made a full visit to the “Vittorino”, going upstairs,
Stopping at the Flame for the Unknown Soldier, and at the top, I counted the church towers in my field of vision: there were fourteen easily visible!!!
From here,to the Trajan Column,the Fori Impeririali ,a little stop at the tourist office to have our bottle of water recharged and we arrive at the Colosseum.
Nothing new can be said, lots of tourist, a magnificent site and gorgeous surroundings with the two Arches and 2 or three modern sculptures that suit very well(in my opinion) with the landscape.
We proceed to San Pietro in Vincoli; to enjoy the Moses statue.after waiting more than one and a halfe hour,the church open again(closed 12.30 to 3 pm); in the wait,we talk to other tourists,and have great fun about the church being closed for a priest nap; bat be advised,many churches are closed more or less at this same time.

Then, back to Trevi for our ritual of gelattoi at Blue Ice , (amaretto and zabaglione,please),and we switched to shopping mode, visiting Zara,H&M,Chopin and other shops.

After shopping,we return to the hotel for a little rest, and proceed to admire Castel Sant’Angelo by night,marvelous,as well as the bridge,with all the illuminated statues!!!
There is no any problem at night in Rome,at least in all the neighborghoods we visited.

We have dinner at a restaurant near the hotel; grilled chicken for DW; saltimbocca alla romana for me, and a delicious pannacotta ai frutti di bosco as dessert; with two beers we paid 35 euros.

hi jelopez,

lovely report. i so agree about going into the churches - you never know what you will find, be it a mosaic encrusted crypt, a little-known old master, or, the most curious spectacle I came across, a motorcyclist, complete with helmet, crying whilst she stroked the cheek of the statue of a saint.

I will have to look out for blue Ice.

I'm very much enjoying your trip report. I agree about Piazza Navona. We were there on a February evening and had it almost to ourselves. It had rained a bit that day and the lights were glistening off the ground and fountains. And high above, through the windows of one of the surrounding buildings, we could see the loveliest painted ceiling. Simply magical.

As was our walk around the Colliseum and Forums another night. Rome is just magical. Thank you for bringing back the memories.

Annhig and LCboniti: Thanks for your comments!!We really did a great trip and specially found Rome alive,beautiful safe and charming.We hope we can return!!!

Day Four, (tuesday):

A glorious sunny day, we go across the river, pass in front of the Ara Pacis and continue to Piazza del Poppolo.There are two twin churches, and we visit the one devote to Santa Candida, as this is the name of DW(we usually call her Candy).We take a look at the piazza, and go up to the Pincio, for a glorious view or Rome,including churches,the Piazza and far away the Vatican and the monument to Vittorio Emanuele.Not the cleanest park, but the views really deserve going up there.
We take via del Babuino(sister to Madison Avenue in N.Y.C.),only second to via Condotti in luxury shops;we crossed Piazza Spagna and arrived at Mc Donald’s,for a technical stop.
Yhen,following via sistina,we go to the gorgeous Fontana del Tritone,in piazza Barberini,DW reads a little from our old guide book and we follow via Veneto,all the way up to the American Embassy(Palazzo Margherita); along the Via Veneto one finds lots of expensive hotels and equally expensive caffes.
We read our map and walk towards Piazza della Reppublica, for another high point in the trip: Santa Maria degli Ageli.
This church was built in the site of the tepidarium of ancient public Terme.The original project is by Michelangelo..and wow….what a place!!!!
The church is really big, airy, clear and in the floor,there is a bronze line, a meridianum by Francesco Bianchini.When the sun lights the line, a very old man comes and gives explanations to all people there, in two or three languages.
We really liked this church may be not the most well known, but really interesting and beautiful,for us,a must visit when in Rome.
We went to piazza dei Cinquecenti,took via Dazzeglio and were even able to find the hotel where we stay in 1981!!
Then its time for a short visit to Santa Maria Maggiore,with his Porta Sacra,of course a beautifull Cathedral.
A walk towards Trevi for a late lunch of gnocchi and a glass of white wine, our daily visit to Blue Ice and shopping for some little souvenirs.
Another visit to the Panteon (one of our preferred monuments in Rome).We go to the hotel for a little rest and visit theVatican by night, taking some pictures of the S. Peter Dome,illuminated.
Next day: faslling in love with porchetta!!

Great report! Rome is my favorite city, followed by Paris, so I am really enjoying reading about your trip!

Day Five(wednesday):
Another sunny day, starts at Piazza Navona again, but or aim is Trastevere via Campo dei Fiori.
At Campo dei Fiori we made a little shopping of crystal necklaces and rings for DN and some friends of her, and we continue to Trastevere with the idea or returning to Campo in order to buy a simple lunch at the market.
Trastevere is the kingdom of graffiti, but also the home of Santa Maria in Trastevere, the church that has the most beautiful mosaics in Rome(in my opinion of course).
The zone is has plenty of tourists, but not as many as Piazza Spagna or Navonna.
DW buys one more hand bag (a woman never has enough hand bags) to a street vendor for a mere 25 euros; we pass along the tram that connects Trastevere with other parts of the city, but we keep on walking, in order to see and enjoy as much as we can.
A short walk and we are back at Campo dei Fiori,and we buy all the elements for a light but excepcional meal:
Fragole dei bosco: small and most savoury strawberries,out of this world in flavor.We also buy some apples,nectarines all for 4 euros.
Porchetta panini: best meal we have in all our trip, believe me!!!! The guy in the market is always making prosciutto and porchetta panini, and the ones filled with porchetta are enormous and delicious…better yet they cost only 3 euros each!! This lunch was something to remember…talk about gourmet pricey food!!
Sometimes, simple pleasures are the best ones.
Those panini are sold in the daily market,but on a corner in the square there is a de luxe salumeria that also sells panini, olives and anything you want but of course at higher(but affordable) prices.
One more time we arrived at via del Corso in shopping mode,and continue to found reasonable prices(doing a little search of course); then proceed to Trevi for gelatti and to toss our coins ant the fountain(one additional coin for our best friends).
We stop by two churches: San Cosme e Damian and the beautifull San Ignacio de Loyola.
The night comes in and we made our diner at Piazza Navona; in a little restaurant some 10 or 15 metres from the piazza,but with full views.
We dine outside,2 salads,2 spaghetti,2 ice creams and soft drinks 24 euros.Another stroll at the Piazza,gorgeous at night and back to the hotel.

Day Six(thursday):
A new and early(almost no lines) visit to St. Peter, to enjoy La Pietá one more time(with the secret hope of retirning some day).
The success of the porchetta panini was so great that we walk along the Tevere and arrive to Campo dei Fiori; great deception…themarket is there, but the guy who sells panini has taken a day off or something like that!!!!; well sometimes one has to loose!!!
More shopping at the market, buying presents for friends.
Back to the hotel we have some pizza on the go,and some fruit at our room.We take a nap and decided to visit the Ara Pacis, some 200 metres from our hotel.
The monument is worth the visit, tickets are not expensive,7 euros.But one can only access the Ara Pacis, there are no other masterpieces or things on show,anyway the monument is well preserved and a real marvel.
A little more shopping and we go to Piazza Spagna,to visit Trinitá dei Monte(not really good) and we stay seated at la “barcaccia”, people watching and one more time thinking of how fortunate we are, being here 28 years after our first and only visit to Rome.

Day Seven(friday):
Last day in Rome,we must check out by 11 a m .
We made a walk,said good bye to many good things and we are ready to take the bus to the airport the first leg of our trip to home(Rome to Madrid).
The suttle bus is a bargain at 7.50 each; and we arrive with plenty of time.
We have lunch at the airport, with surprisingly good chicken saladas and red fruits tarts.
The flight to Madrid and our connection at T4 for our flight to Montevideo went well and we have an uneventful flight back home to find our family and friends.

All in all: an almost perfect trip that we thoroughly enjoyed.Our choice of long stays at only three places went perfect, and we almost have no rain(only when arriving in Amalfi).
We found that some places can be seen and visited many times,and we are happy of being together after 33 years!!!!

And that’s all at least by now….if you have any question, I will be glad to answer and help.
And thanks to all of you for being so benevolent with my poor and broken English(ahhh remember always…ALWAYS try to speak the local language... everyone will welcome your effort).

What an extremely enjoyable and evocative trip report. Your English is quite good - certainly much better than my Spanish would be.

Speaking of which, my son, who is graduating college next spring, is intending to live in Spain and teach English. I look forward to visiting him there.

Thank you for taking the time to post this trip report. I loved every line of it.

jelopez,

Thank you for a wonderful report about three of my favorite cities/areas. What a nice trip for both of you. I greatly admire your ability to write in English.

I loved when you wrote: "Carabinieri look as if they are fashion models." That is so true!

jelopez - a lovely report, so well written, in whichever language.

I will particularly try to remember about the porchetta panini in the campo dei fiori for our trip to Rome in Feb - DS in particular loves pork and this sounds a bargain.

Thanks to all for your comments!!!
LCBoniti:I hope you enjoy your visit to Spain next year.

I haven't been to Ara Pacis in several trips to Rome--I think next time I shall visit. The architecture of the building housing it certainly stands out, doesn't it?

Have a delightful time in Spain. Coincidentally, just about 33 years ago my parents took my sister and me to live there for a year before we began kindergarten. I haven't been back since...but someday.

Thank you for taking the time to share your journey here! Very enjoyable reading.

jelopez, a really enjoyable report, with the personal details that make a story interesting. Your DN is a lucky girl with such dedicated shoppers working for her. Thanks for letting us come along with you on your trip.

ttt

Bravo, José! Very enjoyable. You were good walkers, eh? DH and I had the same experience in Piazza Navona but our occurred over two visists-no one there on the first, and mobs on the next. Rome is an amazing city-thanks for bringing it alive again,

Merry Christmas to you all!!!!!! and a Happy and well traveled 2010!

Hi I am originally from Montevideo,what a coincidence.I am planning a trip to Florence,Rome and Amalfi Coast in SEPTEMBER2010, I did enjoy and expect to take advantage of your trip and food.
Great Report
Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

mheinz:Nice to hear from you!!! great coincidence.where are you living? Please,let me know if I can be of any help.Good Trip!!!!

ttt for later

Thanks for your report , it will be very hepfull in our next trip
amapati

Thanks for your detailed report! We only have one day in Rome after getting off a cruise, and I've written down several of your suggestions...

Thats a great trip report. Was it the Sitbus?
There is great detail about this on the roninrome blog, which shows all the places you can pick it up in Rome. One way 8€ return 15€ - great value - thanks for reminding me of this.

Patricia:

I really don't take note of the name of the bus company; as our hotel was realy next to Pizza Cavour, Piazza Cavour was the stop we choose for boarding the bus.On the piazza there is a post with the timetable, and I remember the route was through the city,the near the Vatican and the the highway to the Aiport.

Bookmarked thnx

dondonandjj:
If you have any question just let me know; enjoy planning and your trip!!

Great TR, JELopez. How did i miss this during my won planning a few months ago? Wish i hadn't--we were in Amalfi for an afternoon (from Sorrento) and wish we'd have known about Savoia Plan to return to Amalfi Coast when have more than four days--you're "encouraging"me! Love the details of your report. Grazie!!