Our trip to London was great!

Old Dec 15th, 2003, 08:52 AM
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Our trip to London was great!

Returned home on Friday from a terrific, albeit short visit to London. We were very fortunate as far as weather was concerned. No rain until our last day there. We had clear skies (one sunny day) and actually we didn't feel it was even very cold. In fact, we were often too warm inside (kept our hotel room window cracked most of the time) and were pleased when we had cloak rooms to check our coats when visiting museums, etc.

Much to our surprise Ray Skinner was not there to meet us, since he has received such rave reviews here. We called him and he said he had no record for our pickup and transport to our hotel; only taking us to the airport for our return home. I checked our correspondence when I got home and indeed I did have confirmation from him for pickup at the airport. We ended up taking a cab to the hotel, which didn't please us but seemed the best solution under the circumstances.

We spent Sunday afternoon in Covent Garden piazza, market, etc. It was very crowded with Christmas shoppers, but we enjoyed looking around. The Christmas tree was very pretty and the decorations very festive. We tried to eat in the Punch & Judy Pub but it was packed. Walked a few blocks and found another pub-type place to eat which had a non-smoking section. Had bangers and mash and a pint, and were serenaded by a group of partyers in the bar singing carols. Not Vienna Boys Choir, but added a holiday atmosphere.

We went to Somerset House and the Courtauld on Monday. Enjoyed both and saw the temporary Rubens exhibit. The courtyard has been converted into a skating rink, with a very beautiful Christmas tree at the front. The skaters glided around accompanied by classical music. Would highly recommend visits to both.

England won the Rugby World Cup and celebrated with a parade on Monday, which ended in Trafalgar Square. When we left Somerset House the festivities were ending and we ran into a sea of people (one side of the Strand was closed to auto traffic). We felt like salmon trying to swim upstream against this tidal wave of humanity.

Went to see Chicago Monday night and thought the company was excellent.

On Tuesday we went to a shop to buy model cars for our grandson and great nephews (as part of their Christmas presents). It's on St. Martin's Lane, so after buying two Jaguars and a Mercedes we walked to St. Martin-in-the Field, where we were just in time for a piano concert, and what a talented young man played. It was wonderful.

Went to the National Gallery afterwards. We had been there before, but there is always something new to see.

The Cabinet War Rooms were first on our agenda for Wednesday and like many other Fodorites were so glad we went. Brought back many memories of that time so long ago. It is very well done and we too would recommend it as a must see.

From there we went to the V&A for the first time. While we are glad we went, we found it a little overwhelming. Where do you go first; what to see next? It was open late that night, so after shopping in two museum shops, we sat down at a table in the lobby, where they had set up a temporary bar, had a glass of wine and a nice visit with an English gentleman.

Did some shopping on Thursday. Got a Christms bear at Harrod's for our newest great nephew. The trees, wreaths, all the decorations were gorgeous. The toy department was jaw dropping. Saw the "shrine" by accident when we went to the lowest level for a specific department.

It was much too short but nonetheless an excellent visit. As usual we didn't do several things we had planned to, but that's always the way isn't it?

So here we are back at home, busily preparing for the holidays with the short time we have left. Hope all of you enjoy the best Holiday Season ever!




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Old Dec 15th, 2003, 08:59 AM
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Welcome back Giovanna! Weren't the Rugby crowds amazing! The shopping crowds were pretty intimidating too. It sounds like you had an action packed time. We visited the Somerset House too, on Saturday, following a visit to the Temple Church.
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Old Dec 15th, 2003, 09:04 AM
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I didn't think the rugby crowds were intimidating at all - very good fun, very happy party atmosphere - but then I was one of the supporters
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Old Dec 15th, 2003, 09:06 AM
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Kate, Not intimidating! They were just so big! 750,000 people! Here our sports crowds can be intimidating (followed by riots, looting, fires....) Now the shopping crowds... THEY were intimidating.
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Old Dec 15th, 2003, 09:40 AM
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Welcome home! Sounds like you had a great trip - where did you stay?
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Old Dec 15th, 2003, 10:03 AM
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Giovanna,
I am interested to know where you stayed. We are going in March and staying at the Morgan Hotel.
JoeG
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Old Dec 15th, 2003, 03:55 PM
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Grasshopper: Would like to hear about your trip. If I remember correctly you left the day before we did.

Margie & JoeG: We always stay at the Strand Palace. This time it was completely full so we didn't get a corner room, which we like because they are larger. The hotel had undergone some renovation since we were there last, and the lobby areas are quite nice now. Of course, with two beautiful 8' Christmas trees, wreaths and garlands everywhere, how could it not look great? We did have full breakfast included this time, so had eggs, bacon, ham, etc. if we liked.

We love the location and though it is very old and perhaps not as posh as some like, we will continue to stay there on our London visits.

(JoeG--it isn't the Calendal, but it suits us fine. I know you'll have a great trip. If I can help at all with London questions or ideas, let me know.)
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Old Dec 16th, 2003, 06:03 AM
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JoeG - if you have not stayed at the Morgan before, worry not, it is one great little hotel and I suspect you will be happy as a clam there. It is the only place my wife and I stay when in London. Tell the owners/operators hello for us.
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Old Dec 16th, 2003, 06:55 AM
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Curt,
This will be our first stay at the Morgan(based on recommendations from posters like yourself). We are excited.
Giovanna,
How much was the taxi fare from Heathrow? We are contemplating taking the tube or Heathrow Express/cab on arrival and then a taxi or service (like Ray Skinner) for departure. Also how did you travel about while there?
JoeG
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Old Dec 16th, 2003, 09:17 AM
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I'm afraid our trip was even quicker than Giovanna's. Myself and my two daughters were in London from Friday through Tuesday, just a lovely long weekend to take advantage of $296 rt airfare and stay in status with my mileage program. We stayed at the Radisson Edwardian Vanderbilt (So. Kensington, booked through londontown.com). Spent Friday fighting the crowds shopping, Saturday explored the Temple area and visited the Temple Church (gotta be one of the hardest to find churches in London!), Somerset House, and took a double decker bus into some of the neighborhoods on the south side of the Thames where it was fun to observe busy people shopping, eating, mingling and bustling about real "neighborhoods".

Sunday we went to Greenwich - fun town with lots of great shops and restaurants and enjoyed Tapas at a Spanish restaurant (and sangria that had a lot more than the red wine and fruit that I usually make!). Saw the prime meridian and Cutty Sark. Monday, avoided the 750k rugby fans at the British Museum and shopping in other parts of the City. I got my hair cut and colored at Alan d's, and we had a wonderful Italian dinner at Da Mario's on Glouchester Rd.

London is very expensive for Americans these days. We got weekend 4 zone transit passes and used them well. But we didn't hesitate to take a taxi when our feet hurt. We took the Heathrow Express into London and a cab back (36 pounds for the Tues. morning trip). As Giovanna said it was cold but clear and sunny. We came home to a very rainy San Francisco. Tomorrow I leave for 3 weeks in a very snowy and cold Christmas in the Rockies. No wonder I keep catching a cold!
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Old Dec 16th, 2003, 10:11 AM
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I'm glad you two wonderful people had great trips and are back posting. We can always use your classy and informative inputs.

Oh, how DO you find the Temple Church?
 
Old Dec 17th, 2003, 06:45 AM
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Hi JoeG: I think the cab fare from airport to hotel was about 50 pounds. This would vary in terms of traffic, since the cabs are all metered. Ray Skinner (www.london-transfers.com) quoted rates of 39 pounds from the airport and 34 pounds to the airport, but I think this is based on a round trip. In the past we have used mostly buses and a few tube rides, but this time for whatever reason, my husband wanted to use cabs to places we couldn't walk. Was more expensive obviously, but was sure convenient.

Grasshopper: Sounds like you and your daughters had a great, short trip too!

Degas: You Silver Tongued devil! I'm sure Grasshopper will be back to give you the directions you need. When are you leaving?
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Old Dec 17th, 2003, 02:45 PM
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To find the Temple Church is kind of tricky because it's right in the middle of the Temple (which is a big office/legal complex). We got off the underground at Temple(which is closed on Sunday) and then went to Strand, turned right and followed it to a sign that showed to go through some big black (locked) doors to Temple Church. A kind gentleman directed us down to the next alleyway and we turned down and then asked directions a couple more times until we finally found the correct building. Someone else (another American searching Da Vinci Code locales, like us) tried coming up from the Embankment but found more locked gates and fences.

I recommend visiting on Saturday when the area is pretty deserted and you feel so alone in the tiny courtyards and alleys. The church is only open from 11 - 12 and then later for a couple of afternoon hours on Sat.
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