Our first visit to France, Sarlat in the Dordogne
Jun 6th, 2017, 07:48 AM
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Our first visit to France, Sarlat in the Dordogne
Just got back from our 10 day stay in Sarlat in the Dordogne which was simply wonderful although we got off to a bad start.
Early Wednesday morning we set off from Manchester (UK) via Amsterdam and after having had our flight time changed twice we landed at Bordeaux at 4pm, picked up our rental car and got straight onto the motorway just to find there had been a few really bad accidents and we were at a standstill for hours. By 9 o'clock I was ringing our B & B to let them know we were still on our way in case they thought we were no shows and they were fine about it, said they would stay up till whatever time we got there and let us in. We finally arrived at 10.30pm tired and fed up but seeing our room cheered us up, it was absolutely huge with an equally huge bathroom. There was only a large roll top bath with a shower attachment which at first I wasn't too happy about but I quickly got used to having a bath everyday and actually enjoyed it. We stayed at a lovely little place called Les Cordeliers, they only have 5 rooms and the hosts are both English who've lived there for the last 12 years. They offer breakfast each day which you have to pay extra for but we felt it was worth it, there was the usual continental meats and cheeses, cereals, fresh fruit, yoghurts, croissants and other pastries and he will also cook eggs to order.
Also, our host pointed out a 'snack room' that he said we were to make full use of and help ourselves to whatever we wanted, there was wine, beer, soft drinks, hot drinks, chocolate bars, nuts, pringles, biscuits (cookies) cakes and all sorts of other bits. That cheered us up even more as we settled in to unpack with two large glasses of wine.
The following day, Thursday, we decided we couldn't face getting back in the car so just had a good wander round Sarlat. It's a really beautiful town, lots of tall medieval buildings and tiny twisty streets and alleys to wander around in. It was absolutely packed as not only was it the start of a school holiday they were also having a gastronomic 2 day event with lots of market stalls and lots of pens everywhere with horses, cows, ducks, geese etc etc all round the town. As it was such a hot day this made it quite smelly as you can imagine, I felt very sorry for all the animals being penned up in such small places in searing heat, they were also left where they were overnight and all the following day. We had a small lunch in the main square and then joined a guided history tour which was really good, very informative. We discovered that Sarlat had been virtually abandoned at one point and left to go to ruin but somebody had the foresight to rescue it and it has been wonderfully restored back to its former glory.
Headed back out later on for an evening meal and DH ordered from a 3 course fixed price menu and I ordered from the a la carte, we both had starters of foie gras and mine was enormous and his was paltry and the same happened with the main meal, as you can imagine he didn't do that again.
Next day we drove out to Domme, our sat nav took us down some very small twisty roads so that was a bit unnerving but we made it only to discover the small car park was completely full, whilst we were dithering about what to do we had cars behind beeping their horns so we decided to drive off but just as we were coming back out of the town someone drove off from a side street so we were able to quickly take their place and had free parking for the day. Had a good wander round the town and up to the viewpoint and then took a little train ride that takes you all round the town and out and down to a huge car park at the bottom of the hill. Wish we'd know that was there before we drove into the town for parking.
We then went into the caves which were really good, the guide only spoke in French so we couldn't understand a word of it which was a shame as he had the group laughing a great deal, I'd have liked to have known what he said that was so funny.
We then had a wander round a little museum which was very interesting, they have folders in all different languages for you to take round with you so you know what you're looking at. We had picked up a map from the tourist information showing a suggested walking trail around the town so we followed that for a while but it was so hot we gave up halfway through and heading back to Sarlat.
Before we went on this trip we learned as much of the basic words as we could, please and thank you etc and how to ask for things but we knew even if we asked a question it was unlikely we would understand what was said back to us but it really wasn't a problem, most people spoke English and were very helpful, I also used google translate on my phone which was incredibly useful where I could hold it over any French words and it would translate it into English.
The following day was a Saturday and the market was on in town so we had a good wander around that, it was huge, although it was no different to markets the world over mostly just cheap tat apart from the food stalls which looked lovely.
After lunch we drove out to La Roque Gageac and I decided to have a go at driving, it was quite nerve wracking I have to say. We are from the UK so not only was I on the wrong side of the road but changing gear with my right hand was just really weird and felt all wrong. I've driven hire cars in the US and Canada but they always seem to be automatic so I was always ok as it's just stop and go and the roads are very wide but I found it quite hard driving in France, DH was gripping his seat most of the time especially as I clipped the kerb twice as I couldn't judge just where I was in relation to the middle of the road. He was very relieved that I actually got us there in one piece.
We had a good wander around, it's a very interesting town built right up against the cliff face, again very tiny streets and lovely old buildings. We took a boat trip on a Gabares boat, they are replicas of the flat bottomed boats that used to ferry cargo up and down the river. It last 55 minutes and they have audio guides in different languages and takes you from La Roque up to Castlenaud and back, the views are spectacular and the river was absolutely full of canoeists, and I mean hundreds of them, they did well not to be run down by all the Gabares boats that were steaming up and down. We then went back for a wander round the town and watched a wedding party coming out of the church, it was interesting that they didn't throw confetti, which is always used at UK weddings, but instead had bottles of bubbles to blow at the bride and groom. I don't know if this is a French thing or just something they did at this wedding but all I could think of was the soap mark you'd have on your dress if a bubble popped on you. Think I'd rather stick to confetti.
The next day, Sunday, we headed back out to Le Roque Gageac again to do a canoe trip ourselves on the river. We were taken by mini bus upriver to Vitrac and then left to our own devices, you can take as long as you want and make as many stops as you like and you are then picked up and taken back to your car. They provide you with life vests and a large plastic screw top container to put all your belongings in. It was such a great thing to do, we enjoyed it so much we went back on our last day to do it again. The current is quite fast in places so you can just drift along without doing much although if you suddenly decide to stop somewhere you've to work hard to get yourself into the side before you are swept past. There was hardly anyone else about unlike the day before so it was nice and peaceful. We had a couple of stops for drinks and a paddle in the river and ended up just past Beynac, about 16 kms in total. Once back at the car we quickly changed into a clean set of clothes and went on to Le Jardins de Marquessac which was a nice relaxing walk after our exertions on the river. You can walk through the woodlands or along the cliff top up to a viewpoint which gives spectacular views over the river. There's a lovely cafe on a terrace but unfortunately by the time we got back to that they had stopped serving main meals and only had snacks so we had to make do with a coffee.
On Monday morning we happened to mention to the B & B owner that we would be going to Lascaux caves later in the week and he offered to book the tickets for us online and print them out which was so nice of him, unfortunately we ended up wishing we hadn't bothered as it took him absolutely ages and he ended up booking us on a French tour so then he had to ring them to try and change it to the English one and we had to wait in till the email came to make sure we had the right tour and we hadn't paid twice. After all the messing about it was gone 11 o'clock before we got out and drove to Beynac Castle which was very impressive and well worth a look round. You can see for miles down the Dordogne valley and the even more impressive chateau De Castlenaud across the way. There is an upper and lower town to Beynac which was very quaint just like all the towns in this region and we picked a small restaurant in the upper half for something to eat. I decided to drive us back which resulted in more white knuckles for poor DH. We went out into Sarlat just for drinks but as it started raining most places closed up early so we had to make do with the free wine back at the B&B, saved us a fortune that snack room.
On Tuesday we went to Rocamadour and stopped to take pictures from the other side of the valley at L'Hospitalet as it looked breathtaking and that was about the best part of the trip as far as we were concerned. We drove down and parked up in a large field which was free and then went up to where a little train waits to take you, we thought, up to the top. We paid about €7 for return tickets thinking it would save us a lot of hiking up and we could then just walk down but all it does is take you about 5 mins into the lower town, we could have quite easily walked it. We needed the loo as soon as we got there and they were €2 each, another rip off, and then we took a lift up to the middle bit and they also charged for that! And then to cap it all, when we'd walked up the winding road past the stations of the cross we paid another €2 each to go into what we though was a chateau but it was just to go up on the ramparts. I climbed the first lot of steps but as I'm really scared of heights I had to come straight back down is its very steep and narrow and extremely high up, it really wasn't made clear that that's what you were paying for or I would not have gone in that part.
We went back down to the middle bit and looked at all the churches which were superb and a nice antidote to the main thoroughfare which was mostly full of souvenir shops. We found a nice cafe and just got coffee and cake to put us on till our evening meal, I can't remember now what it cost but it was very expensive for a tiny cup of coffee and a small dry piece of walnut cake. When we were ready to leave there was no sign of the little train so we walked back to the car, I think we just felt the whole visit was spoiled just a little by paying for things which even though individually they weren't a great amount we felt were just a waste of money. If you are of reasonable fitness you can easily walk from the bottom of the town up to the top.
We carried on to Gouffre de Padirac which was one of the main highlights of our whole trip. It looks like a huge sink hole in the ground and you descend something like 100 metres down, we took the stairs rather than the elevator as you got the wonderful views as you go deep down into the earth. You walk through the first bit yourself at your own pace and then reach an underground river where you board a small boat which winds it way along some utterly stunning rock formations. The water is incredibly clear and varies between being very shallow and up to 6 meters deep in parts. You are matched with a guide who speaks English which was very helpful as he was really knowledgable and interesting. At one point you go through what they called the lake of rain where water is pouring down on you, glad I remembered to take my raincoat. After the boat trip you remain with the guide for the last bit of the tour before heading back again on the boat. There are a lot of stairs going up and down and a few people there with young children found it a bit of a struggle. The whole thing was spectacular and punting along on a subterranean river made it really special.
The next day we headed out first to Chateau Des Milandes which looked like a fairytale castle, it was once the home of Josephine Baker, we had never heard of her but were very impressed by her story once we had finished the tour of the castle. She was an amazing woman who was ahead of her time. It is a self guided audio tour which I always like as you can take as long or as little as you like with the different exhibits. There are lots of her outfits on display and a room dedicated to her work with the French resistance during the war. The gardens are very pretty and there was a bird of prey display as well.
We then moved on to Chateau de Castlenaud which we felt was even better than Beynac. It's just how a medieval castle should look, huge and forbidding and with some fantastic replicas of siege weapons. It had just started to rain when we first entered but by the time we had climbed to the top of a tower up a very narrow spiral staircase a huge storm had started up with thunder, lightning and torrential rain and that's when we realised we couldn't go back down the stairs and you had to go outside across the ramparts to get to the next bit of the castle. There were a few people already sheltering in what was a tiny room with more coming up the stairs all the time but nobody wanted to be the first to go outside, eventually when we were all squashed together some brave souls decided to make a run for it and everyone followed in a mad dash, must have looked quite funny from below. We were absolutely soaked but carried on round the rest of the castle and by the time we came out the sun had come out again and it was back to being glorious. We felt this was the best castle of all the ones we saw.
We had a very busy day on Thursday as our tickets for Lascaux cave wasn't until 16:04 pm, don't know why it has to be such a precise time, so we had the full day to fill before then. We went first to Maison Forte De Reignac which is a house built into a former cave so it was split into two parts, the house at the front and a troglodyte cave at the back which had lots of palaeolithic exhibits, all the signs are in French but they have English guide books which was great to be able to really understand everything. In the house itself it is stuffed with all sorts of artefacts and they even had the fires lit which made it different to most places you see. You also end up upstairs and outside on the cliff face which was very steep and high up, I didn't stay there for very long. At the end of the visit you can enter a torture museum, they do warn you that it's not for the faint hearted and it really is gruesome. I gave up halfway round and had to come out, I just couldn't bear reading anymore about the awful things humans have done to each other down the centuries it was too sickening.
We then carried on to La Roque Saint Christophe, another troglodyte cave which was ok, just a long slit in the rock face where people have lived for thousands of years. They had some replicas of cranes and winches to show how they got stuff up and down and some very naff looking models of cave men fighting off a bear. It seemed to promise a lot from the leaflet but we felt it didn't quite deliver. Maybe we are getting cave fatigue.
When we first booked this trip I knew I wanted to visit Lascaux cave and felt it would be the highlight, unfortunately this was one of those times when you big something up and it just doesn't live up to expectations. To start with it was very hard to find, hardly any signs and nothing to really announce it when you were right outside. The frontage is very modern, looks just like an airport terminal and we had to wait for about 40 minutes till our tour started but there's nothing to see or do in that time other than wander round the gift shop. When finally it was 16:04 and we could go in we were kept waiting ages while the guide explained how the iPad type tablets that we had to use along with headphones worked, it took such a long time as a lot of the elderly people there just couldn't understand how to use them and were getting quite flustered. Then we had to listen to a long and boring tale of how the cave was found by some boys and a dog, then we were taken up on the roof and given another monologue of how the area looked in prehistoric times, then back inside to see a film about how the boys found the cave and what the area looked like in prehistoric times and then into a darkened room so that our eyes could adjust to the dim cave light. Finally we were allowed in where we were almost rushed through as another tour was right behind us. I already knew that this wasn't the original cave as that had been closed in the '60's but we weren't told anything about how they recreated this cave and how they re-did the paintings which would have been of interest. The cave art itself is extraordinary and talented, showing depth and perspective, and without a guide pointing bits out you would miss a great deal of it. Although we had booked the English tour our guide was Swedish and she had a very heavy accent so it was sometimes difficult to make out what she was saying especially as her microphone kept crackling and breaking.
After the cave which was actually quite small you go into a large room which is when you start to use the tablet, as you approach an exhibit the tablet vibrates and you click on the headphone icon so you can then hear all about what you are looking at in your chosen language. You can also, if you wish, enter all your personal details and use it to take photos in this room (non are allowed in the cave) and email them to yourself. Once you got the hang of it it was really good but again there were a lot of frustrated people who couldn't understand how to work it and gave up. There was then a 3D film to watch which was ever so slightly boring, I actually dozed off, and the 3D effect was quite poor. Next along the corridor was the gallery of imagination which was completely pointless, there were large screens showing different pics of art old and new and you could swipe them around to make your own collage. We thought it was just time-wasting nonsense unfortunately. The last room we did enjoy, it was a virtual reality headset where you use a joystick to navigate yourself around the caves. It was so realistic I actually felt sick when I found myself plummeting down a large hole.
All in all we could probably have given this a miss, we felt the high ticket price was to pay for all the high tech stuff they have introduced but until it all works properly it's not much good. The cave itself is small and you are through in about 15 mins but end up spending about 2 hours there being guided round in a Disney like way from one little segment to another before seeing the cave itself.
Having since read reviews I think there are probably other places with cave art that may be better.
On Friday which was our last day we decided to do another canoe trip on the river as we had enjoyed it so much, once again we started at Vitrac and ended just after Beynac but this time we took longer over it and had more stops. It was so quiet, most of the time we had the river all to ourselves which was lovely. We had intended to have a wander round La Roque Gageac when we finished but we felt so hot and sweaty we decided to head back to Sarlat for a wash and change and out for drinks. In the main square a large stage and sound system had been set up for a jazz/blues festival and on that night it was dedicated to Josephine Baker which we really enjoyed as we had learnt all about her at Milandes. We thought maybe it was just a coincidence that they were doing a tribute to her but the next morning I noticed the google doodle said it would have been her birthday so that was possibly the reason.
Saturday and we were up early, quick breakfast and the start of our drive back to Bordeaux for our flight home. It was absolutely torrential rain, we got soaked getting to our car and then completely drenched again getting from the car return place into the airport but at least there were no delays this time.
We had an amazing trip, loved every minute of it although I wouldn't rush to go back to that area. For me, once I've seen a place or attraction it would be many years before I would feel the need to see it again but I would definitely like to see more of France as its such a huge country and so diverse.
Some of my observations while we were there - we were shocked at the amount of dog muck everywhere, the French just don't seem bothered about picking it up. It's horrible when you are walking down a quaint cobbled medieval street and all down the middle are great dollops of muck. Not nice at all.
People seem to fart quite openly, maybe this wasn't the French, I don't know. Could have been another nationality, but it was pretty alarming to be stood next to someone and they let rip very loudly and don't bat an eyelid. It happened on quite a few occasions, it wasn't just an isolated incident. I didn't know whether to laugh or indicate how rude I thought it was.
All the French people we came into contact with where extremely helpful and friendly, we tried our best with our rudimentary language skills but almost everyone spoke English and were very happy to do so.
We were quite underwhelmed by the food on offer, we are not foodies, we eat to live but almost every restaurant had variations of the exact same menu so after 10 nights of eating out it got quite boring. They could sink the titanic with the amount of foie gras there is on offer and we had it a couple it times but I can't reconcile myself with how it is obtained so then avoided it. The rest of the menu usually has loads and loads of duck done different ways, the odd beef dish, maybe a couple of fish dishes, omelettes and salads all served with either fried potatoes or chips (fries). Not a great deal of variety or different types of restaurant and we tried ten different ones. From the ones in the central square that packed in the tourists to ones down tiny little back streets and some right on the edges of the town, we felt they were all much of a muchness. The food certainly wasn't horrible or badly cooked we enjoyed everything we did have, just not enough diversity. I'm probably not the best person to speak about the food though as neither of us have very big appetites and could never eat a 3 course meal even a 2 course I find too much so most meals we just had a main course and bottle of wine.
Also, like we discovered in the smaller towns of Italy you have to eat when they decide, lunch is 12-2 dinner 7-whenever. If you are hungry at 5.30 you'll struggle to find somewhere serving food. We quite often miss lunch if we've had a big breakfast but don't want to wait till 7.30 or 8 o'clock to eat our evening meal. At home we are used to being able to walk into any cafe, bar or pub and being able to order something to eat anytime of the day, though even here I accept restaurants don't open until about 6 but then I don't eat in a restaurant every time I want to go out for something to eat. But that's the beauty of travelling, discovering other ways and traditions.
Like I said these are only my observations not generalisations and none of it spoiled anything, it was a wonderful introduction to a country I've always wanted to go to and I hope to see a lot more of in the coming years.
We really enjoyed being based in Sarlat as it was very central to everything we wanted to see and it's a big enough town for you to have a good wander around in the evenings, lots of restaurants and some nice little shops.
I would like to thank everyone who gave me advice and help, particularly about getting the google translate app on my phone, that worked a treat.
I was advised that the markets would be closed by around lunch time but this wasn't the case in Sarlat, it stayed open till around 4.30 which made it slightly difficult getting out of town that day as there were a lot of roads closed and diversions in place but we managed fine.
As a few people said, getting petrol was really easy, loads of garages around.
I was pleasantly surprised by how much French we picked up and understood as well and felt I was doing quite well during the whole 10 days until the very last moment at the airport when we checked our bag in and the lady said (in English) 'hope you have an enjoyable flight' and I said in reply (wanting to use my French for the last time) clearly, confidently and with great gusto 'bonjour' and then immediately felt such an utter fool, no wonder she gave me a funny look. I hang my head in shame.
Early Wednesday morning we set off from Manchester (UK) via Amsterdam and after having had our flight time changed twice we landed at Bordeaux at 4pm, picked up our rental car and got straight onto the motorway just to find there had been a few really bad accidents and we were at a standstill for hours. By 9 o'clock I was ringing our B & B to let them know we were still on our way in case they thought we were no shows and they were fine about it, said they would stay up till whatever time we got there and let us in. We finally arrived at 10.30pm tired and fed up but seeing our room cheered us up, it was absolutely huge with an equally huge bathroom. There was only a large roll top bath with a shower attachment which at first I wasn't too happy about but I quickly got used to having a bath everyday and actually enjoyed it. We stayed at a lovely little place called Les Cordeliers, they only have 5 rooms and the hosts are both English who've lived there for the last 12 years. They offer breakfast each day which you have to pay extra for but we felt it was worth it, there was the usual continental meats and cheeses, cereals, fresh fruit, yoghurts, croissants and other pastries and he will also cook eggs to order.
Also, our host pointed out a 'snack room' that he said we were to make full use of and help ourselves to whatever we wanted, there was wine, beer, soft drinks, hot drinks, chocolate bars, nuts, pringles, biscuits (cookies) cakes and all sorts of other bits. That cheered us up even more as we settled in to unpack with two large glasses of wine.
The following day, Thursday, we decided we couldn't face getting back in the car so just had a good wander round Sarlat. It's a really beautiful town, lots of tall medieval buildings and tiny twisty streets and alleys to wander around in. It was absolutely packed as not only was it the start of a school holiday they were also having a gastronomic 2 day event with lots of market stalls and lots of pens everywhere with horses, cows, ducks, geese etc etc all round the town. As it was such a hot day this made it quite smelly as you can imagine, I felt very sorry for all the animals being penned up in such small places in searing heat, they were also left where they were overnight and all the following day. We had a small lunch in the main square and then joined a guided history tour which was really good, very informative. We discovered that Sarlat had been virtually abandoned at one point and left to go to ruin but somebody had the foresight to rescue it and it has been wonderfully restored back to its former glory.
Headed back out later on for an evening meal and DH ordered from a 3 course fixed price menu and I ordered from the a la carte, we both had starters of foie gras and mine was enormous and his was paltry and the same happened with the main meal, as you can imagine he didn't do that again.
Next day we drove out to Domme, our sat nav took us down some very small twisty roads so that was a bit unnerving but we made it only to discover the small car park was completely full, whilst we were dithering about what to do we had cars behind beeping their horns so we decided to drive off but just as we were coming back out of the town someone drove off from a side street so we were able to quickly take their place and had free parking for the day. Had a good wander round the town and up to the viewpoint and then took a little train ride that takes you all round the town and out and down to a huge car park at the bottom of the hill. Wish we'd know that was there before we drove into the town for parking.
We then went into the caves which were really good, the guide only spoke in French so we couldn't understand a word of it which was a shame as he had the group laughing a great deal, I'd have liked to have known what he said that was so funny.
We then had a wander round a little museum which was very interesting, they have folders in all different languages for you to take round with you so you know what you're looking at. We had picked up a map from the tourist information showing a suggested walking trail around the town so we followed that for a while but it was so hot we gave up halfway through and heading back to Sarlat.
Before we went on this trip we learned as much of the basic words as we could, please and thank you etc and how to ask for things but we knew even if we asked a question it was unlikely we would understand what was said back to us but it really wasn't a problem, most people spoke English and were very helpful, I also used google translate on my phone which was incredibly useful where I could hold it over any French words and it would translate it into English.
The following day was a Saturday and the market was on in town so we had a good wander around that, it was huge, although it was no different to markets the world over mostly just cheap tat apart from the food stalls which looked lovely.
After lunch we drove out to La Roque Gageac and I decided to have a go at driving, it was quite nerve wracking I have to say. We are from the UK so not only was I on the wrong side of the road but changing gear with my right hand was just really weird and felt all wrong. I've driven hire cars in the US and Canada but they always seem to be automatic so I was always ok as it's just stop and go and the roads are very wide but I found it quite hard driving in France, DH was gripping his seat most of the time especially as I clipped the kerb twice as I couldn't judge just where I was in relation to the middle of the road. He was very relieved that I actually got us there in one piece.
We had a good wander around, it's a very interesting town built right up against the cliff face, again very tiny streets and lovely old buildings. We took a boat trip on a Gabares boat, they are replicas of the flat bottomed boats that used to ferry cargo up and down the river. It last 55 minutes and they have audio guides in different languages and takes you from La Roque up to Castlenaud and back, the views are spectacular and the river was absolutely full of canoeists, and I mean hundreds of them, they did well not to be run down by all the Gabares boats that were steaming up and down. We then went back for a wander round the town and watched a wedding party coming out of the church, it was interesting that they didn't throw confetti, which is always used at UK weddings, but instead had bottles of bubbles to blow at the bride and groom. I don't know if this is a French thing or just something they did at this wedding but all I could think of was the soap mark you'd have on your dress if a bubble popped on you. Think I'd rather stick to confetti.
The next day, Sunday, we headed back out to Le Roque Gageac again to do a canoe trip ourselves on the river. We were taken by mini bus upriver to Vitrac and then left to our own devices, you can take as long as you want and make as many stops as you like and you are then picked up and taken back to your car. They provide you with life vests and a large plastic screw top container to put all your belongings in. It was such a great thing to do, we enjoyed it so much we went back on our last day to do it again. The current is quite fast in places so you can just drift along without doing much although if you suddenly decide to stop somewhere you've to work hard to get yourself into the side before you are swept past. There was hardly anyone else about unlike the day before so it was nice and peaceful. We had a couple of stops for drinks and a paddle in the river and ended up just past Beynac, about 16 kms in total. Once back at the car we quickly changed into a clean set of clothes and went on to Le Jardins de Marquessac which was a nice relaxing walk after our exertions on the river. You can walk through the woodlands or along the cliff top up to a viewpoint which gives spectacular views over the river. There's a lovely cafe on a terrace but unfortunately by the time we got back to that they had stopped serving main meals and only had snacks so we had to make do with a coffee.
On Monday morning we happened to mention to the B & B owner that we would be going to Lascaux caves later in the week and he offered to book the tickets for us online and print them out which was so nice of him, unfortunately we ended up wishing we hadn't bothered as it took him absolutely ages and he ended up booking us on a French tour so then he had to ring them to try and change it to the English one and we had to wait in till the email came to make sure we had the right tour and we hadn't paid twice. After all the messing about it was gone 11 o'clock before we got out and drove to Beynac Castle which was very impressive and well worth a look round. You can see for miles down the Dordogne valley and the even more impressive chateau De Castlenaud across the way. There is an upper and lower town to Beynac which was very quaint just like all the towns in this region and we picked a small restaurant in the upper half for something to eat. I decided to drive us back which resulted in more white knuckles for poor DH. We went out into Sarlat just for drinks but as it started raining most places closed up early so we had to make do with the free wine back at the B&B, saved us a fortune that snack room.
On Tuesday we went to Rocamadour and stopped to take pictures from the other side of the valley at L'Hospitalet as it looked breathtaking and that was about the best part of the trip as far as we were concerned. We drove down and parked up in a large field which was free and then went up to where a little train waits to take you, we thought, up to the top. We paid about €7 for return tickets thinking it would save us a lot of hiking up and we could then just walk down but all it does is take you about 5 mins into the lower town, we could have quite easily walked it. We needed the loo as soon as we got there and they were €2 each, another rip off, and then we took a lift up to the middle bit and they also charged for that! And then to cap it all, when we'd walked up the winding road past the stations of the cross we paid another €2 each to go into what we though was a chateau but it was just to go up on the ramparts. I climbed the first lot of steps but as I'm really scared of heights I had to come straight back down is its very steep and narrow and extremely high up, it really wasn't made clear that that's what you were paying for or I would not have gone in that part.
We went back down to the middle bit and looked at all the churches which were superb and a nice antidote to the main thoroughfare which was mostly full of souvenir shops. We found a nice cafe and just got coffee and cake to put us on till our evening meal, I can't remember now what it cost but it was very expensive for a tiny cup of coffee and a small dry piece of walnut cake. When we were ready to leave there was no sign of the little train so we walked back to the car, I think we just felt the whole visit was spoiled just a little by paying for things which even though individually they weren't a great amount we felt were just a waste of money. If you are of reasonable fitness you can easily walk from the bottom of the town up to the top.
We carried on to Gouffre de Padirac which was one of the main highlights of our whole trip. It looks like a huge sink hole in the ground and you descend something like 100 metres down, we took the stairs rather than the elevator as you got the wonderful views as you go deep down into the earth. You walk through the first bit yourself at your own pace and then reach an underground river where you board a small boat which winds it way along some utterly stunning rock formations. The water is incredibly clear and varies between being very shallow and up to 6 meters deep in parts. You are matched with a guide who speaks English which was very helpful as he was really knowledgable and interesting. At one point you go through what they called the lake of rain where water is pouring down on you, glad I remembered to take my raincoat. After the boat trip you remain with the guide for the last bit of the tour before heading back again on the boat. There are a lot of stairs going up and down and a few people there with young children found it a bit of a struggle. The whole thing was spectacular and punting along on a subterranean river made it really special.
The next day we headed out first to Chateau Des Milandes which looked like a fairytale castle, it was once the home of Josephine Baker, we had never heard of her but were very impressed by her story once we had finished the tour of the castle. She was an amazing woman who was ahead of her time. It is a self guided audio tour which I always like as you can take as long or as little as you like with the different exhibits. There are lots of her outfits on display and a room dedicated to her work with the French resistance during the war. The gardens are very pretty and there was a bird of prey display as well.
We then moved on to Chateau de Castlenaud which we felt was even better than Beynac. It's just how a medieval castle should look, huge and forbidding and with some fantastic replicas of siege weapons. It had just started to rain when we first entered but by the time we had climbed to the top of a tower up a very narrow spiral staircase a huge storm had started up with thunder, lightning and torrential rain and that's when we realised we couldn't go back down the stairs and you had to go outside across the ramparts to get to the next bit of the castle. There were a few people already sheltering in what was a tiny room with more coming up the stairs all the time but nobody wanted to be the first to go outside, eventually when we were all squashed together some brave souls decided to make a run for it and everyone followed in a mad dash, must have looked quite funny from below. We were absolutely soaked but carried on round the rest of the castle and by the time we came out the sun had come out again and it was back to being glorious. We felt this was the best castle of all the ones we saw.
We had a very busy day on Thursday as our tickets for Lascaux cave wasn't until 16:04 pm, don't know why it has to be such a precise time, so we had the full day to fill before then. We went first to Maison Forte De Reignac which is a house built into a former cave so it was split into two parts, the house at the front and a troglodyte cave at the back which had lots of palaeolithic exhibits, all the signs are in French but they have English guide books which was great to be able to really understand everything. In the house itself it is stuffed with all sorts of artefacts and they even had the fires lit which made it different to most places you see. You also end up upstairs and outside on the cliff face which was very steep and high up, I didn't stay there for very long. At the end of the visit you can enter a torture museum, they do warn you that it's not for the faint hearted and it really is gruesome. I gave up halfway round and had to come out, I just couldn't bear reading anymore about the awful things humans have done to each other down the centuries it was too sickening.
We then carried on to La Roque Saint Christophe, another troglodyte cave which was ok, just a long slit in the rock face where people have lived for thousands of years. They had some replicas of cranes and winches to show how they got stuff up and down and some very naff looking models of cave men fighting off a bear. It seemed to promise a lot from the leaflet but we felt it didn't quite deliver. Maybe we are getting cave fatigue.
When we first booked this trip I knew I wanted to visit Lascaux cave and felt it would be the highlight, unfortunately this was one of those times when you big something up and it just doesn't live up to expectations. To start with it was very hard to find, hardly any signs and nothing to really announce it when you were right outside. The frontage is very modern, looks just like an airport terminal and we had to wait for about 40 minutes till our tour started but there's nothing to see or do in that time other than wander round the gift shop. When finally it was 16:04 and we could go in we were kept waiting ages while the guide explained how the iPad type tablets that we had to use along with headphones worked, it took such a long time as a lot of the elderly people there just couldn't understand how to use them and were getting quite flustered. Then we had to listen to a long and boring tale of how the cave was found by some boys and a dog, then we were taken up on the roof and given another monologue of how the area looked in prehistoric times, then back inside to see a film about how the boys found the cave and what the area looked like in prehistoric times and then into a darkened room so that our eyes could adjust to the dim cave light. Finally we were allowed in where we were almost rushed through as another tour was right behind us. I already knew that this wasn't the original cave as that had been closed in the '60's but we weren't told anything about how they recreated this cave and how they re-did the paintings which would have been of interest. The cave art itself is extraordinary and talented, showing depth and perspective, and without a guide pointing bits out you would miss a great deal of it. Although we had booked the English tour our guide was Swedish and she had a very heavy accent so it was sometimes difficult to make out what she was saying especially as her microphone kept crackling and breaking.
After the cave which was actually quite small you go into a large room which is when you start to use the tablet, as you approach an exhibit the tablet vibrates and you click on the headphone icon so you can then hear all about what you are looking at in your chosen language. You can also, if you wish, enter all your personal details and use it to take photos in this room (non are allowed in the cave) and email them to yourself. Once you got the hang of it it was really good but again there were a lot of frustrated people who couldn't understand how to work it and gave up. There was then a 3D film to watch which was ever so slightly boring, I actually dozed off, and the 3D effect was quite poor. Next along the corridor was the gallery of imagination which was completely pointless, there were large screens showing different pics of art old and new and you could swipe them around to make your own collage. We thought it was just time-wasting nonsense unfortunately. The last room we did enjoy, it was a virtual reality headset where you use a joystick to navigate yourself around the caves. It was so realistic I actually felt sick when I found myself plummeting down a large hole.
All in all we could probably have given this a miss, we felt the high ticket price was to pay for all the high tech stuff they have introduced but until it all works properly it's not much good. The cave itself is small and you are through in about 15 mins but end up spending about 2 hours there being guided round in a Disney like way from one little segment to another before seeing the cave itself.
Having since read reviews I think there are probably other places with cave art that may be better.
On Friday which was our last day we decided to do another canoe trip on the river as we had enjoyed it so much, once again we started at Vitrac and ended just after Beynac but this time we took longer over it and had more stops. It was so quiet, most of the time we had the river all to ourselves which was lovely. We had intended to have a wander round La Roque Gageac when we finished but we felt so hot and sweaty we decided to head back to Sarlat for a wash and change and out for drinks. In the main square a large stage and sound system had been set up for a jazz/blues festival and on that night it was dedicated to Josephine Baker which we really enjoyed as we had learnt all about her at Milandes. We thought maybe it was just a coincidence that they were doing a tribute to her but the next morning I noticed the google doodle said it would have been her birthday so that was possibly the reason.
Saturday and we were up early, quick breakfast and the start of our drive back to Bordeaux for our flight home. It was absolutely torrential rain, we got soaked getting to our car and then completely drenched again getting from the car return place into the airport but at least there were no delays this time.
We had an amazing trip, loved every minute of it although I wouldn't rush to go back to that area. For me, once I've seen a place or attraction it would be many years before I would feel the need to see it again but I would definitely like to see more of France as its such a huge country and so diverse.
Some of my observations while we were there - we were shocked at the amount of dog muck everywhere, the French just don't seem bothered about picking it up. It's horrible when you are walking down a quaint cobbled medieval street and all down the middle are great dollops of muck. Not nice at all.
People seem to fart quite openly, maybe this wasn't the French, I don't know. Could have been another nationality, but it was pretty alarming to be stood next to someone and they let rip very loudly and don't bat an eyelid. It happened on quite a few occasions, it wasn't just an isolated incident. I didn't know whether to laugh or indicate how rude I thought it was.
All the French people we came into contact with where extremely helpful and friendly, we tried our best with our rudimentary language skills but almost everyone spoke English and were very happy to do so.
We were quite underwhelmed by the food on offer, we are not foodies, we eat to live but almost every restaurant had variations of the exact same menu so after 10 nights of eating out it got quite boring. They could sink the titanic with the amount of foie gras there is on offer and we had it a couple it times but I can't reconcile myself with how it is obtained so then avoided it. The rest of the menu usually has loads and loads of duck done different ways, the odd beef dish, maybe a couple of fish dishes, omelettes and salads all served with either fried potatoes or chips (fries). Not a great deal of variety or different types of restaurant and we tried ten different ones. From the ones in the central square that packed in the tourists to ones down tiny little back streets and some right on the edges of the town, we felt they were all much of a muchness. The food certainly wasn't horrible or badly cooked we enjoyed everything we did have, just not enough diversity. I'm probably not the best person to speak about the food though as neither of us have very big appetites and could never eat a 3 course meal even a 2 course I find too much so most meals we just had a main course and bottle of wine.
Also, like we discovered in the smaller towns of Italy you have to eat when they decide, lunch is 12-2 dinner 7-whenever. If you are hungry at 5.30 you'll struggle to find somewhere serving food. We quite often miss lunch if we've had a big breakfast but don't want to wait till 7.30 or 8 o'clock to eat our evening meal. At home we are used to being able to walk into any cafe, bar or pub and being able to order something to eat anytime of the day, though even here I accept restaurants don't open until about 6 but then I don't eat in a restaurant every time I want to go out for something to eat. But that's the beauty of travelling, discovering other ways and traditions.
Like I said these are only my observations not generalisations and none of it spoiled anything, it was a wonderful introduction to a country I've always wanted to go to and I hope to see a lot more of in the coming years.
We really enjoyed being based in Sarlat as it was very central to everything we wanted to see and it's a big enough town for you to have a good wander around in the evenings, lots of restaurants and some nice little shops.
I would like to thank everyone who gave me advice and help, particularly about getting the google translate app on my phone, that worked a treat.
I was advised that the markets would be closed by around lunch time but this wasn't the case in Sarlat, it stayed open till around 4.30 which made it slightly difficult getting out of town that day as there were a lot of roads closed and diversions in place but we managed fine.
As a few people said, getting petrol was really easy, loads of garages around.
I was pleasantly surprised by how much French we picked up and understood as well and felt I was doing quite well during the whole 10 days until the very last moment at the airport when we checked our bag in and the lady said (in English) 'hope you have an enjoyable flight' and I said in reply (wanting to use my French for the last time) clearly, confidently and with great gusto 'bonjour' and then immediately felt such an utter fool, no wonder she gave me a funny look. I hang my head in shame.
Jun 6th, 2017, 08:32 AM
#2
I found your report very interesting and especially appreciate your review of Lascaux. I think you are right about the lack of variety among the restaurants in the area but since those things are among my favorite foods, you have me wanting to go back. The information about the hours restaurants are available is useful because I think many people find themselves in the situation of wanting to eat at hours when things are closed, and one can be better prepared if you know this in advance.
Jun 6th, 2017, 10:13 AM
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I completely agree, we were bowled over by how wonderful the Dordogne region is, I would definitely like to explore different areas of it. Since getting back I have read reviews of Lascaux and far more people like it than not. We didn't dislike it just felt it was slightly badly presented.
Jun 6th, 2017, 12:04 PM
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We are currently in Sarlat and your post is making me glad that we are leaving a night early to stay in Bordeaux before our flight to London. We are spending 9 nights here in an apartment so have avoided being ducked out. Have bought a lot of foie gras for home.
Jun 6th, 2017, 01:01 PM
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Thanks Sharone
We are driving from Manchester to just outside Sarlat in early July.
Your description of the trip from Bordeaux to Sarlat has sent shivers down my spine. That drive is tiny compared to our whole journey and it took you how many hours?
I'm a little worried about your summary of the restaurants on offer. I absolutely will not touch fois gras based on the production methods. Looks like we will have to stock up at M&S in Folkestone!
How busy were the towns ?
Is it worth setting off early to avoid traffic?
We are driving from Manchester to just outside Sarlat in early July.
Your description of the trip from Bordeaux to Sarlat has sent shivers down my spine. That drive is tiny compared to our whole journey and it took you how many hours?
I'm a little worried about your summary of the restaurants on offer. I absolutely will not touch fois gras based on the production methods. Looks like we will have to stock up at M&S in Folkestone!
How busy were the towns ?
Is it worth setting off early to avoid traffic?
Jun 6th, 2017, 01:48 PM
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It should have taken us just over 2 hours to get from the airport to Sarlat, I guess you just can't account for accidents, they can happen anytime anywhere. It certainly was a gruesome start but was soon forgotten by the next day. I agree about the foie gras, I am more than happy to try most things, and it did taste nice but was only willing to try it a couple of times.
Most places we visited were very quiet, no queues and on the whole were able to park easily apart from the weekend when everywhere was super busy. Sarlat itself was really packed when we first arrived but, as we found out, that was due to there being a food festival on, once that was over it went back to being quiet again, don't know what it will be like in July.
I am quite sure there are some far better, high end restaurants in the town but like I said we are not foodies, we just want something to eat at the end of the day and are not prepared to pay high end prices night after night just to eat our dinner, although we did feel nowhere was particularly inexpensive.
Most places we visited were very quiet, no queues and on the whole were able to park easily apart from the weekend when everywhere was super busy. Sarlat itself was really packed when we first arrived but, as we found out, that was due to there being a food festival on, once that was over it went back to being quiet again, don't know what it will be like in July.
I am quite sure there are some far better, high end restaurants in the town but like I said we are not foodies, we just want something to eat at the end of the day and are not prepared to pay high end prices night after night just to eat our dinner, although we did feel nowhere was particularly inexpensive.
Jun 6th, 2017, 08:42 PM
#9
Having just returned from our own Dordogne/Lot holiday <i>(ironically we spent 5 nights in Les Cordeliers in Sarlat)</i>, your report made for interesting reading.
As regards driving, I have the same problem <i>(we drive on the "other side")</i> so I always pre-book automatic cars to avoid the challenges of a stick-shift - they're usually available in larger towns like Bordeaux (we rented one in Toulouse).
The Gabarre trip and Canoeing down the Dordogne river are both unmissable experiences. With Rocamadour, we were lucky to get there early (before the crowds and tour buses arrive) allowing us to soak in the experience <i>(the religious level is primarily interesting)</i> at a slow pace, which I think materially impacts the experience. Like you, we also visited the new Lascaux IV centre in Montignac <i>(sadly, there are only French tours at Lascaux II now, the replica cave at the original site)</i>, and must confess that while they have tried their best to recreate the experience, I also prefer the authentic experience (e.g. Pech Merle, near Caberets, which was outstanding for its geology and art)
As regards driving, I have the same problem <i>(we drive on the "other side")</i> so I always pre-book automatic cars to avoid the challenges of a stick-shift - they're usually available in larger towns like Bordeaux (we rented one in Toulouse).
The Gabarre trip and Canoeing down the Dordogne river are both unmissable experiences. With Rocamadour, we were lucky to get there early (before the crowds and tour buses arrive) allowing us to soak in the experience <i>(the religious level is primarily interesting)</i> at a slow pace, which I think materially impacts the experience. Like you, we also visited the new Lascaux IV centre in Montignac <i>(sadly, there are only French tours at Lascaux II now, the replica cave at the original site)</i>, and must confess that while they have tried their best to recreate the experience, I also prefer the authentic experience (e.g. Pech Merle, near Caberets, which was outstanding for its geology and art)
Jun 7th, 2017, 01:18 AM
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I enjoyed reading your report. It is always interesting to read other's impressions of places we have visited. We are Australian, so we also have the 'driving on the other side of the road'issue. Fortunately my husband really enjoys driving in France. We have not found 'farting 'an issue at all. You must have been really unlucky!!! Dog droppings, yes, but we watch carefully now after P got caught once.
My suggestion for your next trip would to be to consider self catering. We always stay in self catering and it means you are not locked into restaurant meals every night. Shopping for food in France is one of the great pleasures of our trips. We love duck in all its'forms but we also do not want to eat it every night.
We have been to the UK, stayed in B&B's and eaten in pubs every night. There was not a lot of variety - bangers and mash, fish and chips, pie and chips, burger and chips. So it happens everywhere.
The Dordogne is indeed lovely and it sounds as though you had a very nice trip.
My suggestion for your next trip would to be to consider self catering. We always stay in self catering and it means you are not locked into restaurant meals every night. Shopping for food in France is one of the great pleasures of our trips. We love duck in all its'forms but we also do not want to eat it every night.
We have been to the UK, stayed in B&B's and eaten in pubs every night. There was not a lot of variety - bangers and mash, fish and chips, pie and chips, burger and chips. So it happens everywhere.
The Dordogne is indeed lovely and it sounds as though you had a very nice trip.
Jun 7th, 2017, 02:20 AM
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There are many ways to get to Sarlat from Bordeaux and avoid accidents on the autoroute. The Route Nationale will get you there in about 2.5 hours; there are other more scenic routes as well.
There are also many restaurants in and around Sarlat that offer all kinds of food that isn't duck, restaurants that aren't high-end, either. But you need to do some research and ask around.
Sarlat will be packed in July. It already is.
There are also many restaurants in and around Sarlat that offer all kinds of food that isn't duck, restaurants that aren't high-end, either. But you need to do some research and ask around.
Sarlat will be packed in July. It already is.
Jun 7th, 2017, 04:27 AM
#14
Duck and foie gras are (perhaps too much) everywhere because that is what most visitors want to eat. But I agree with StCirq that it is not very difficult to find completely different food, especially if you are not asking for recommendations for tourist meals.
Jun 7th, 2017, 07:59 AM
#15
My husband loves foie gras, I don't, but it wasn't a problem at all. Lots to choose from in every restaurant we went to.
I was surprised at the "farting" (I HATE that word). Maybe it was a by-product of tending bodies who overindulged in foie gras....?
In the last number of years, I've noticed the dog poop issue much improved, still it pays to pay attention, and anyone who does any research at all on France will know what to expect in that regard.
I adore the Dordogne, it was one of our best trips to France, we prefer it to Provence.
I was surprised at the "farting" (I HATE that word). Maybe it was a by-product of tending bodies who overindulged in foie gras....?
In the last number of years, I've noticed the dog poop issue much improved, still it pays to pay attention, and anyone who does any research at all on France will know what to expect in that regard.
I adore the Dordogne, it was one of our best trips to France, we prefer it to Provence.
Jun 8th, 2017, 01:53 AM
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The word "farting" doesn't offend me much at all; it's just a very peculiar observation. I've been around here for 25 years and never noticed anything like that, and we are with local French people all the time.
Likewise, we are very often in Sarlat and numerous small local villages and have never had a problem with dog poop. It was much worse in the small towns in SW England we visited a couple of weeks ago. A decade or so ago I might have agreed with you, but not today. Did you see the squads of street cleaners out every morning meticulously cleaning up the street?s Sarlat has phenomenal municipal services (the tourist economy pays handsomely for it) and takes great care of the town.
I very much appreciate your taking the time to offer such a comprehensive report on your trip. I will, however, point out a couple of inaccuracies:
The gabares did not for the most part ferry cargo to and from Bordeaux to the region. They ferried cargo downstream only, as it was too difficult to get back upstream against the currents. Moreover, there wasn't much of anything to take back to Bordeaux that Bordeaux didn't already have. The boats were broken up once they reached the Dordogne and used for firewood.
As for currents, perhaps the day you were there the river was running high and swift, but that cannot be put forth as a generalization. It depends entirely on rainfall. There are many days of the year when the current is barely noticeable.
La Roque St-Christophe is not a cave. It is an abri (shelter), a totally different formation. The "naff" models of "cavemen" there can be found all over such sites in the Dordogne. They are there for young visitors. There is a huge culture here of teaching children about their prehistoric origins, and a good deal of it manifests itself in models of prehistoric man and the animals he lived with, demonstrations of how to carve a silex and throw a spear and build a fire, lessons in blowing pigments, etc. Yes, they appear hokey, but IMO they serve a great purpose.
Hard to believe you found it difficult to find Lascaux. No matter which direction you're coming from there's detailed signage all over. As for "the boring story of the four boys and their dog who found it," you're entitled to your opinion, of course, but that story is fascinating to me and a lot of people with a sincere interest in the pre-history of this area. And for those who may be contemplating a visit, I've been to Lascaux II at least a dozen times and have never had a guide who didn't explain exactly how the cave was replicated, or what materials the original artists used to do the drawings, how they got the pigments onto the rocks, and how they used the natural contours of the rocks for relief. Something about your visit must have gone awry.
ANUJ, it is not true that there are no longer visits in English to Lascaux II (that would have been a ridiculously bad marketing decision ). Visits are, as they have been for years, available in French, English, Spanish, German, and Dutch. Visitors can also, with advance planning, arrange for visits in other languages.
Again, thank you for your input and glad you enjoyed this beautiful part of the world.
Likewise, we are very often in Sarlat and numerous small local villages and have never had a problem with dog poop. It was much worse in the small towns in SW England we visited a couple of weeks ago. A decade or so ago I might have agreed with you, but not today. Did you see the squads of street cleaners out every morning meticulously cleaning up the street?s Sarlat has phenomenal municipal services (the tourist economy pays handsomely for it) and takes great care of the town.
I very much appreciate your taking the time to offer such a comprehensive report on your trip. I will, however, point out a couple of inaccuracies:
The gabares did not for the most part ferry cargo to and from Bordeaux to the region. They ferried cargo downstream only, as it was too difficult to get back upstream against the currents. Moreover, there wasn't much of anything to take back to Bordeaux that Bordeaux didn't already have. The boats were broken up once they reached the Dordogne and used for firewood.
As for currents, perhaps the day you were there the river was running high and swift, but that cannot be put forth as a generalization. It depends entirely on rainfall. There are many days of the year when the current is barely noticeable.
La Roque St-Christophe is not a cave. It is an abri (shelter), a totally different formation. The "naff" models of "cavemen" there can be found all over such sites in the Dordogne. They are there for young visitors. There is a huge culture here of teaching children about their prehistoric origins, and a good deal of it manifests itself in models of prehistoric man and the animals he lived with, demonstrations of how to carve a silex and throw a spear and build a fire, lessons in blowing pigments, etc. Yes, they appear hokey, but IMO they serve a great purpose.
Hard to believe you found it difficult to find Lascaux. No matter which direction you're coming from there's detailed signage all over. As for "the boring story of the four boys and their dog who found it," you're entitled to your opinion, of course, but that story is fascinating to me and a lot of people with a sincere interest in the pre-history of this area. And for those who may be contemplating a visit, I've been to Lascaux II at least a dozen times and have never had a guide who didn't explain exactly how the cave was replicated, or what materials the original artists used to do the drawings, how they got the pigments onto the rocks, and how they used the natural contours of the rocks for relief. Something about your visit must have gone awry.
ANUJ, it is not true that there are no longer visits in English to Lascaux II (that would have been a ridiculously bad marketing decision ). Visits are, as they have been for years, available in French, English, Spanish, German, and Dutch. Visitors can also, with advance planning, arrange for visits in other languages.
Again, thank you for your input and glad you enjoyed this beautiful part of the world.
Jun 8th, 2017, 04:15 AM
#18
I wasn't scolding you for using that word, apologies if it appeared that way.
It's my own particular thing, just like my mother hates the word "veggie" and my daughter "moist"....I was trying to be a bit amusing in my own lame way.
Maybe I should start a post on words that make us cringe....lol
It's my own particular thing, just like my mother hates the word "veggie" and my daughter "moist"....I was trying to be a bit amusing in my own lame way.
Maybe I should start a post on words that make us cringe....lol
Jun 8th, 2017, 07:41 AM
#19
"We carried on to Gouffre de Padirac which was one of the main highlights of our whole trip"
Although many would disagree with my assesment, we liked Gouffre de Parirac much more than the cave drawings we "saw" at Font-de-Gaume. Thanks for the great memories in your report.
"People seem to fart quite openly..."
After seeing this, Tracy is now suggesting I purchase a home there.
Although many would disagree with my assesment, we liked Gouffre de Parirac much more than the cave drawings we "saw" at Font-de-Gaume. Thanks for the great memories in your report.
"People seem to fart quite openly..."
After seeing this, Tracy is now suggesting I purchase a home there.
