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One Step at a Time - julia_t begins the Camino de Santiago

One Step at a Time - julia_t begins the Camino de Santiago

Old Sep 25th, 2015, 08:47 AM
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One Step at a Time - julia_t begins the Camino de Santiago

Last month I posted how I was about to start walking the Camino de Santiago...

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...me-join-me.cfm

Well I'm back - after walking 106km in 5 days! It was harder than I ever imagined it would be, at times joyous, at others sheer torment. I surpassed all my expectations of my capabilities and walked further than I ever thought possible. But I had a great time, I met some wonderful people and it broke my heart a little to have to leave them to continue towards Santiago de Compostela and Finisterre. I shall follow in their footsteps over time though.

This is my basic trip report.
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Old Sep 25th, 2015, 08:51 AM
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Oh - I'm so glad you were able to get through the posting problems. What a mess.

Anyway -- REALLY looking forward to your story . . .
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Old Sep 25th, 2015, 09:15 AM
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I flew Heathrow-Bilbao, then took a bus to Pamplona (2 hours) followed by the 6pm bus to Saint Jean Pied de Port – along a very twisty road with many hairpin bends (I hour 45 mins). Lucky I’d taken some sea-sick pills before!

In Saint Jean I easily found Gite Ultreia where I had reserved a bed in a 4-bed room. €17 plus €5 for breakfast.

http://www.ultreia64.fr/en/

I shared with two women from the US and one from France, though I didn’t meet them until after I had eaten dinner, in one of the many restaurants along Rue de la Citadelle. The Pilgrim Office is near the top of this street, and I got my Credencial (Pilgrim Passport) stamped there. I also arranged to have my backpack carried on for me the next day. €8 with Express Bourricot.

Breakfast the following morning was simple. I was in no hurry to leave as I only had 8km to walk. I’d decided to break the first stage Saint Jean to Roncesvalles, 26km over the Pyrenees into two stages, and the only option for doing this is to stay at Refuge Orisson.

http://www.refuge-orisson.com/en/

This wonderful place has quite a reputation for the wonderful friendly atmosphere, good food and wine in a stunning location. It is essential to reserve a bed in advance. €35 including dinner and beakfast. I was in a 6-bed room (all women), and luckily got a bottom bunk! It was all very clean. We were all given a token for the showers, which allowed 5 minutes of hot water!

Anyway, getting there... the road climbs 800m over 8km. That’s pretty steep overall, yet it is not all uphill. There are downhill stretches and flat places too. At every turn you look back down to Saint Jean down in the valley. Some of the uphill stretches really are steep though! And it’s not all road either, some of it is stone tracks, grass. The views are spectacular, and at one point I counted 16 Griffon vultures wheeling and soaring above me! There were red kites as well, distinguishable by their forked tails. I walked this in a little under 3 hours, and apart from one rocky incline did not find it too arduous. Suddenly round a bend in the road Refuge Orisson comes into view with the panoramic terrace. I sat here for a while chatting with other pilgrims, some of whom were staying, others were taking a break before continuing on to Roncesvalles, a further 17km over the Pyrenees.

There was a definite air of excitement and anticipation here, and when we were all seated at 3 long tables for the evening meal of soup, chicken, yoghurt, washed down with local red wine, there was such a great feeling in the room. Amazing positive energy. People from all over the world, Canada, USA, Australia, Japan, South Korea, Israel, and many European countries - but only myself actually from England! There were two other British-born women, but they have lived in Germany and Cyprus respectively for many years.

Next morning everyone rose about 6.30 and after breakfast everyone set out up the hill under a glorious sunrise. Gradually people settled into small groups, sometimes walking alone, passing others, falling behind. I enjoyed walking alone, within myself, having time to think, admiring the incredible views. There was the music of the mountains – the constant ringing of the bells round the necks of the sheep, cattle and horses roaming and grazing over the mountain pastures.

A man with a white van parks up as far as the road goes up (before curving round and going back down the other side) close to Croix Thibault, and he sells coffee, water, snacks, local cheese. He provides a most welcome service on this long first stage of the Camino. After refreshments I continued up and over the mountain passes and crossed into Spain. At various points I could look back and see a tiny white speck – the van – and was filled with awe, amazement and sense of achievement at how far I had walked! Finally I reached the Col de Lepoeder, the highest point on the route. Here I met with several others, and while some chose the steep short path, Kathi (from Lake Tahoe) and I took the slightly longer but safer route down the paved road to Ibaneta and Roncesvalles. I’d reserved a room at La Posada €55 and Kathi stayed in the pilgrim hostel in the old monastery.

http://www.laposadaderoncesvalles.com/

After a shower I went down to the terrace and met up with several members of my ‘Camino family’ and we drank beer and wine. Over time we were joined by others and had quite a party going on spread over several tables. We ate the pilgrim meal (fresh trout) offered by La Posada and then attended the Pilgrim Mass at the monastery chapel which felt very special, before heading to our respective beds.
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Old Sep 25th, 2015, 09:19 AM
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Great report Julia and well done
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Old Sep 25th, 2015, 09:30 AM
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Whoohoo! What an accomplishment. Congrats.
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Old Sep 25th, 2015, 09:32 AM
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Lovely start - I have so enjoyed your photos on Facebook and look forward to more of this.
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Old Sep 25th, 2015, 10:00 AM
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Lucky you! This is something I've long wanted to do, but I didn't start wanting to do it until I was too old and in shape too bad to do it.

Buen Camino!
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Old Sep 25th, 2015, 10:14 AM
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wow such a well written and informative report!
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Old Sep 25th, 2015, 05:46 PM
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Excellent!
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Old Sep 26th, 2015, 12:52 AM
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Every time I read a report I feel like getting another jaunt organized! Can't wait for the rest!
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Old Sep 27th, 2015, 02:59 AM
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Thank you for all your kind and positive comments.

lincasanova - you were very inspirational when telling me that I didn't have to walk it all at once, I could do short distances and encouraged me to do so.

So I would like to extend this encouragement to pegontheroad... it is absolutely true that you can just 'dip in and out'. Age is no barrier, most pilgrims are 60-plus, many in their 70s and some even older. Some level of moderate fitness is important, but there is no reason why you could not walk a short distance for a day or two to give you a sense of the Camino. Pick a relatively flat stage with villages every 3-5km and just do it! I'm sure you can, and I'm also sure you would love it. It is something quite special.
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Old Sep 27th, 2015, 03:16 AM
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So those two days were Thursday and Friday. Time unravels when on the Camino!

Saturday I left my backpack to be sent on to Viskarret, then met with Kathi and we walked the 3km to Burguete where we stopped for a cafe con leche and croissant with Eloi and Louise (from Canada). We met up again in the next village, Espinal where we also came across several other people we’d met previously at Orisson, and also the American women from my first night in Saint Jean.

Viskarret (Biskarret-Guarandian) is 10km from Roncesvalles. Remember I had only thought I would walk 10k a day? So I had booked a room at Corazon Puro.

http://www.corazonpuro.es/Enghome.html

But it was only 11.30 when I got to Viskarret. We all had lunch of bread, olives, tomatoes and sheeps cheese I’d bought from white-van-man on the mountain, and I was feeling so good and strong I decided to walk on, and try to get a taxi later for my bag. But when I went to Corazon Puro I was told as it was Saturday I would not be able to get a taxi, no buses until Monday, either stay or go on!

I had a small day pack and my big pack, but knew I wouldn’t be able to carry both. So, everything came out of both bags and I reshuffled stuff I could do without that night into the little pack and heaved the big pack onto my shoulders. I left the little pack at the pension for collection and transport the next day to Pamplona – I had no idea where I would be staying so wrote down the name of the biggest hostel there.

And off we went again for Zubiri, 10.5km distant. After passing through the village of Lintzoain the track began to climb, and climb, and climb! Part of this was paved but then became a narrow rocky path. I just kept my head down, took short strides and plodded on and up. One step at a time!

Eventually we reached the top of Alto de Erro, crossed the main road – and there was a van selling drinks! After a brief refreshment stop, we continued on along a wooded path with great views down into the valley below, and descended a tricky rocky track to the small town of Zubiri and crossed the medieval Puente de la Rabia (the bridge is so named because it was once believed that animals would be cured of rabies by being led around the central arch would be cured).

While we wondered where to stay – there were a lot of pilgrims already in town and we heard one hostel was full - we were approached by a little old lady who mimed ‘sleep’ then led us to a door and guided us up (via a lift/elevator) to the 4th floor where she let us into an apartment and showed us a two-bed room. This was €35, there was a bathroom and kitchen; it all seemed very clean, there were sheets and towels (oh joy!) and we paid up. Signora spoke no English, everything was done by mime including showing us our boots smelled and should be put out on the kitchen balcony! I had a little trouble communicating I wanted to have my backpack transported the next day, but got there. By the time Kathi and I had both had showers Signora had persuaded several more pilgrims to take on her rooms, two of whom were the American women I’d shared a room with in Saint Jean.

http://www.turismo.navarra.es/eng/or...enta-Berri.htm


Kathi and I went for a short walk around the town, then found a table at one of the only 2 restaurants was free so we grabbed it, and shortly we were joined by most of our Camino friends, and extended to a second table. The pilgrim meal included fresh tuna steaks, I had paella to start, and finished with ‘flan’ which is actually crème caramel and delicious! All pilgrim meals come with wine and water, and cost around €10-€12.

We slept well, me hoping it wouldn’t rain the next day as my waterproofs were all in my small bag back in Viskarret! Thankfully the weather was good – a misty start but drying out to be a hot and sunny day. In the morning I left my big bag at the door of Pension Benta Berri, hoping it would be waiting for me in Pamplona later.

Given my back problems, carrying anything other than my daypack wasn't something I had planned to do, but for those 10.5km I didn't find it too bad. However I realised it was not something I could or would wish to do again unless absolutely necessary. I am glad I did it, because it gave me understanding of other pilgrims who do so, and I am filled with admiration of them and how much harder it makes their pilgrimage.

Breakfast was in a busy bar on the street corner where several of us met up, and after jamon tostadas and cafe con leche we walked back over the bridge and turned on to the track out of Zubiri.
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Old Sep 27th, 2015, 03:31 AM
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Wonderful!
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Old Sep 27th, 2015, 03:53 AM
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I am getting the itch again!! Great report and anyone who has done any part of the camino is reliving their experience. The stops for coffee with familiar faces.. the sense of personal achievement. Can't wait for the next installment.
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Old Sep 27th, 2015, 04:45 AM
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Great report, julia-t, and so impressed.

What sort of shoes/boots did you wear, besides eventually odorous?
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Old Sep 27th, 2015, 05:10 AM
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I've done it with tennis shoes.. my "hiking boots" destroyed my big toe toenail the first day.. so next time i wore comfy walking/running type tennis shoes.
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Old Sep 27th, 2015, 05:44 AM
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Ha! Actually my boots didn't smell, but I'm sure Senora Benta Berri has come across many boots that have done! But it is always good to let said boots air after a day walking. I wore leather boots with vibram soles, good ankle support, with my orthotic liners and gel insoles. I have lighter goretex boots (Merrells) but don't find them so comfortable.

I didn't have a single blister! Just a couple of hotspots on two of my smaller toes. I put compeed on one, and micropore tape on the other. They were fine.

On the sort of terrain we were walking over, gravel, stones, rocks, pebbles and boulders, you really need decent support, and firm soles. No one wore sandals that I noticed, and most people wore boots or hiking shoes.

I also used trekking poles, and could not have done it without. I put a lot of weight on them each step, uphill and downhill, I could feel the spring/shock absorber each time, and they really helped.
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Old Sep 27th, 2015, 05:52 AM
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By this time, my ‘Camino Family’ had crystallised and settled into one core group, comprising Kathi (from Lake Tahoe), Eloi and Louise (from Ottawa), Kia (Sweden), Denise (British but living in Hamburg), Felicity (British but living in Cyprus). Tom and Marja from Holland were always around and often joined us - at 58 I was the baby of the group- giggle! – though definitely not the fittest; age/fitness should never be a barrier to doing even part of the Camino. Many others became familiar faces along the way – Sivan from Israel, two women from Norway and Carla from Alaska who had been in my dorm at Orisson, Dinora from Mexico, Andrew from South Korea, and so many more who I recognised but either forgot or didn’t know their names.

Today, Sunday, the path followed the River Arga for the first 8 km or so, along riverside paths. It was fairly easy walking, some small undulations but peaceful and enjoyable.

Although we set out together, people walk at different paces, so even couples walk apart, then wait for each other, catch up, continue on. It’s not a race or competition. There are no rules (though there is a code of Camino etiquette which basically means being polite, courteous, respectful – of other pilgrims and of The Way itself. And not leaving litter! I was disgusted by the sheer quantity of toilet paper and used tissues I saw. Why it can’t be buried or at least tucked into a plastic bag and taken to the next village for disposal I do not understand. Or for women to use a pantyliner! I can honestly say I did not leave a single piece of litter of any sort on my short Camino journey.

The route passed by some industrial works on the outskirts of Zubiri, then along to a tiny village with a ruined church. The tower had once been an ancient fortress. An Englishman is restoring this, and we stopped in to see his work, and get a (sello) stamp in our credencials. I think this village was Ilaratz. We passed the turn to Larrasoana and continued along the wooded river bank before passing through Akerreta – where a scene from The Way was filmed – the one with the meal being eaten outside on the terrace and the Frenchman arguing about Roland and Charlemagne, where Sheen’s character meets the blonde woman (forget her character’s name).

Onwards, we came to Zurian where there was an idyllic cafe by the river, with a striking metal pilgrim sculpture outside. Time for a coffee and a slice of spinach tortilla! Now we were leaving the river, and followed the road for a while then branched off up to Irotz. Here there is a restaurant called Horno Irotz where they cook fabulous pizza in the horno (pizza oven). A shaded table under the terrace called us. Kathi and I shared a pizza which had the most gorgeous thin crispy crust (I don’t usually like pizza but this was good).

And on. Several of us decided to take the (uphill) detour to Zabaldika. Here there is a chapel renovated by the Sisters of the Sacred Heart and they also run a small albergue (I’d originally hoped to stay here when I was still walking short distances each day!).

In the lovely shaded courtyard we were welcomed into the chapel with a glorious altarpiece and statue of Saint James. It was well worth the hike up the hill. We were encouraged to climb the narrow spiral stair to the tower and ring a bell, said to be the oldest in Navarra, and to send our prayers out over the countryside. The tone of the bell was glorious.

http://zabaldika.wix.com/zabaldika#!story/c123j

We were also given a piece of paper with the Pilgrim Blessing on it, you can read it here...

http://zabaldika.wix.com/zabaldika#!prayer/cj1m

Our path down from Zabaldika undulated along a rocky track for several kilometres. Looking down we could see other pilgrims who had opted for the usual route along a paved track through the fields below. Apparently our route was half a km shorter, but many miss out on the beautiful chapel because they don't want to climb the hill.

When you reach the outskirts of Pamplona there are two options: one is to walk in along the busy city streets for around 6km, or to take the slightly longer (0.6km) route along the River Arga through a riverside park. It was hot, and we chose this slightly more shaded and quieter path. I was pretty tired by now, but with the company of Eloi, Louise and Kathi I was able to keep going. The relief when we reached and crossed the Puente de Magdalena outside Pamplona city walls was slightly tempered when we rounded the corner and realised we still had to climb up to the city gate! We walked through the city, stopping at the tourist information office for a map and advice on accommodation. We asked in at a couple of places but they were either full or we didn’t like the rooms. We found Hostal Arriazu where they had two nice rooms available so we took them. €45 each, in a street just off the Plaza del Castillo so incredibly central.

http://www.hostalarriazu.com/es/home.html

Incidentally, a hostal is a private room with its own bathroom. A hostel is a shared room with a shared bathroom. A pension is a private room with a shared bathroom. An albergue may offer any or all of these.

Before Kathi and I settled down, I still had to find my bags! She very kindly offered to come with me to the hostel Jesus y Maria near the Cathedral where I found my small bag straight away in reception, but there was no sign of my big backpack. I went cold for a moment, my contact lens stuff was in there, my glasses, kindle, phone charger, clean underwear – but my bag was then found in a big hall next door. Phew, so much relief, thank you Camino angel.

Because I’d been in Pamplona before, I’d suggested everyone meet up at the easily-found Bar Txoko in the corner of Plaza del Castillo, and that’s what we all did at 6pm! Service was very slow, so after one beer we moved on to calle San Nicolas which is lined with restaurants and bars. None of the restaurants were serving dinner before 8pm, which was getting to be a bit late for us, so we just settled for pinxos and wine in a bar. So many wonderful dishes to choose from, and actually 3 or 4 pintxos are pretty filling. A final gelato from the shop on the corner and it was bedtime.
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Old Sep 27th, 2015, 06:00 AM
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I was also given this text at Zabaldika, and feel it to be very appropriate. I think it sums up what it is to walk even part of the Camino very well...

EL CAMINO

The journey makes you a pilgrim. Because the way to Santiago is not only a track to be walked in order to get somewhere, nor it is a test to reach any reward.

El Camino de Santiago is a parable and a reality at once because it is done both within and outside in the specific time that takes to walk each stage, and along the entire life if only you allow the Camino to get into you, to transform you and to make to a pilgrim.

The Camino makes you simpler, because the lighter the backpack the less strain to your back and the more you will experience how little you need to be alive.

The Camino makes you brother/sister. Whatever you have you must be ready to share because even if you started on our own, you will meet companions. The Camino breeds about community: community that greets the other, that takes interest in how the walk is going for the other, that talks and shares with the other.

The Camino makes demands on you. You must get up even before the sun in spite of tiredness or blisters; you must walk in the darkness of night while dawn is growing, you must just get the rest that will keep you going.

The Camino calls you to contemplate, to be amazed, to welcome, to interiorize, to stop, to be quiet, to listen to, to admire, to bless… nature, our companions on the journey, our own selves, God.
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Old Sep 27th, 2015, 07:08 AM
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Good story, well told. Thanks.
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