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            Oh, No, Not Another Trip Report - for England and Wales

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            I owe so much to the good people at this site for the invaluable information I gathered here before our trip to Britain. So I am putting together this trip report even though I suspect I’ve not much new to add!

            Basically, this was a twelve-day trip in which we tried (not always successfully) to jam in as many must-see sights as possible in places we’d always wanted to visit. Twelve days turned out to be not enough time, but with an 82-year old mother (and a 12-year old dog) at home to consider, it was all the time we could spare (not to mention the expense!).

            We tried to do this trip as frugally as possible, so I will include any cost-saving tips that are relevant. We managed to keep the cost for the entire trip (not including airfare which was paid for with frequent flyer miles) under $3000; this included EVERYTHING --lodging, meals, site admissions, transportation, and (minimal) souvenirs and gifts. We did find Britain to be rather expensive; particularly for dining out (which we didn’t do a lot of.) I hope this observation doesn’t insult anyone.

            So, here we go –

            October 17th - We live near Seattle but because we were using FF miles, flew British Air out of Vancouver to Heathrow. YVR is a lovely airport and seems much more user-friendly than SeaTac. We had to abide by British Air’s annoying policy of not permitting seat assignments until 24 hours before the flight – even then, the website didn’t work and we ended up having to phone BA to get our seats. Seatguru.com indicated that several rows near the rear of the plane were preferential as the plane (747) is narrower there so the side seats are only two across -- a nice arrangement for couples. Still, the man in front of me reclined his seat back from takeoff to landing, so I felt pretty cramped. Plenty to do on the plane what with first-run movies on the individual TV screens and two meals, but we managed to grab a couple of hours sleep.

            October 18th – Landed at Heathrow about 1:45 PM, pretty close to on-time. Immigration was a breeze, as was purchasing our Oyster cards and grabbing the tube to Victoria Station (one change at Hammersmith.) We opted to buy 7-day travelcards (about 25 GBP each) loaded on an Oyster, though we were only in London for parts of five days…this was to take advantage of the 2-for-1 deals at various attractions, and it really paid off. (Thanks, alanRow.)

            It took us about half-an-hour to negotiate the ten-minute walk from Victoria Station to our hotel the first time…street names kept changing and confusing us. Duh! Finally we arrived at the Luna & Simone Hotel. We had indicated that we traveled light, but that quiet and (if possible) views were important to us, so we were given a room on the 5th
            floor – 88 steps up! Oh, well. Upon first entry, our room at the L&S was shockingly small…by actual measurement, it was 9’ by 11’, and the bathroom door could not be opened all the way because it ran into the bed. But it was spanking clean and we eventually got used to stepping around each other en route to the bathroom.

            We wandered around our neighborhood and had pasties at a nearby coffee shop. Then we used my Costco – MCI calling card to call my niece, who is a theater arts major at Ithaca College doing a semester on West End theater. Kacie showed up soon, looking quite the little Londoner in her high boots, tights, short skirt, red trenchcoat and cap. We all boarded the #24 bus; literally right across the street, and rode to Trafalgar Square. They were showing great old silent films, with improvisational piano accompaniment, in the moonlit square that night…then we walked through Leicester Square to Piccadilly Circus, and had a drink with my oh-so-sophisticated niece. It was a great introduction to London. Home on trusty #24!

            October 19th – Up early for our first English breakfast, including (for the first and last time) baked beans. Victoria Station was a sea of people during the morning commute; folks had to go down to the platforms in regulated groups as they were too crowded. We stood most of the way to Tower Hill, then used our Oyster cards for the first time to secure 2 for 1 entry into the Tower of London…saving 16 GBP.

            If I have one piece of advice for travelers to the great sights of London, it is this: get there early. We were literally the ONLY ONES in the building (except the guards, of course) to see the Crown Jewels, and shared the first “Beefeater Tour” of the day with only about 20 other people. Our Yeoman Warder was Phil Wilson, who is featured in the Tower’s guidebook, and he was very entertaining. As we left, we noticed another Yeoman Warder leading a crowd of what must have been 150 folks – so again, get there early. The tour, and the Tower, were of course not-to-be-missed experiences.

            Out to the Thames to take photos of Tower Bridge, and then we walked to St. Paul’s, stopping at Subway on the way (because it was cheap and also because we love their meatball subs). I used the Oyster card again for admission to St. Paul’s, saving 9.50 GBP. Toured the marvelous church and climbed up to the Whispering Gallery (whispering didn’t work for us unless one used sort of a shout-whisper), then on to the first viewing gallery. Lacking the energy to go further, we climbed back down and took Bus #15 back to Trafalgar, then bus #24 home.

            By the way, if you can manage to score the front seats on the top of these double decker buses, you are in for a ride as good as anything at Disneyland. We tried for them every time.

            Our day still wasn’t over, as we shopped for food (roast chicken, rolls, apples, strawberries) at Sainsburys, then picnicked in our room. Then we were off on a 10-minute walk to the Victoria Apollo Theatre, where we had tickets (purchased from home) to see “Wicked”. The show was great, as it had to be to keep us awake after this extremely strenuous day!

            More to come – this will be my LONGEST daily report, I promise.

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