kerouac

Lots of people seem to wonder about "secret" places to go away from the swarms of tourists in the center of the city, but most of the suggestions that I have seen are just for places with slightly fewer tourist swarms but not at all off the beaten track -- Père Lachaise? Full of people with cameras. The back side of Montmartre? Just as many tourists as the rest of Montmartre except that some of them are lost. The Buttes Chaumont and the Mouzaïa? Loads of people, and part of that might even be my fault.

Yesterday I knew that I would see loads of people, but I confess that I too get tired of dealing with the tourists from time to time. So I took bus 46 from Gare du Nord to Porte Dorée to dive into different crowds. Metro line 8 or the T3a tramway would have been just as good, but the 46 was more convenient for me even though it was a good long ride all the way to the other side of Paris. I wasn't in a hurry.

The Bois de Vincennes is always popular with 'ordinary' Parisians, the kind who don't feel that they can relax in the prim and proper Parc Monceau or the Luxembourg Gardens. The Bois has few rules and people can pretty much do whatever they want.

Right now the <b>Foire du Trône</b> is in progress until May 23rd. It is the spring fun fair and attracts people who have a lot of children and cannot afford Disneyland Paris or Parc Astérix. It is a lower class event, and I do not say that derogatorily at all. It is a pure carnie atmosphere, and I am sure that there are plenty of upper class New Yorkers who have enjoyed a day at Coney Island or Angelinos who like to go to Santa Monica Pier from time to time. Then again, some people are appalled by such things. In that case, don't go.

I made a report about what I saw yesterday, and here it is: http://tinyurl.com/trone2016

If any of you think this is interesting but won't be in Paris before it ends, there is a similar event during the summer which is just a little bit smaller. It is the <b>Fête des Loges</b> and runs from 24 June to 15 August. It takes place in the forest of Saint Germain-en-Laye and entails a ride to the western end of the RER A, where you will find shuttle buses waiting to take you into the forest. Don't forget to visit the town of Saint Germain-en-Laye if you go there. You can spread out for a delightful picnic on the grounds of the château, which has a magnificent terrace overlooking Paris in the distance with a delightfully tiny Eiffel Tower.

In any case, neither of these fun fairs can be compared in any way to that pathetic little summer event in the Tuileries. That is just a sleazy embarrassment.

prmbrown

I have only been to St Cloud a couple of times and then it was more for the history than for the "parc" atmosphere. Still, I was surprised at how few people were there. As I recall, there is only one restaurant and it was small but my memory fades. The point is, if you want to picnic you might best bring everything you will need with you.

I agree with your comments about St Germain en Laye and the terrace you mention is a Le Notre design and you can never miss with him. Not far away is Marly or rather the ruins which gets a little better each year. Not many people there either.

If anyone has explored the Forest at Fontainebleau I would love to hear a little about it. I've been to the Chateau several times but never the forest nor the village of Barbizon.

rouelan

Thanks Kerouac for your Nice pictures. You captured the essence of That day out. Yes, it seems That Parisians were craving for it.
For fontainebleau, some trains from Gare de Lyon stop right in the forêt (probably only on sundays). From There, You Can hike to Fontainebleau. There are several choices. Either marked trails That go round the rocks (bleau as rockclimbers call it Is famous for rock climbing) or, equiped with Top25 IGN map, build your own way.
Or, You Can stop at Bois le roi between melun and fontainebleau, stock some food at the sunday market right at the station and then hike With pick nick to Fontainebleau.

fuzzbucket

Nice report, kerouac - I'm headed to the Foire du Trone next weekend.

On a somewhat related note - if anyone feels the need to be surrounded by picnic-happy tourists - this article includes a map of all the parks that will be open 24/7 - yep, you read that right - which has already started Fridays and Saturdays until the end of June, then 24/7 all week long during July and August.

The mysterious "parc Louis XIII" is actually Place des Vosges.

http://www.leparisien.fr/paris-75/pa...16-5746879.php

denisea

Fun...I have not been to a fair or carnival in ages. Except for the French signage, looks like a visit to the Mid-South Fair in Memphis from my childhood! Funnel cakes anyone?

brubenow

I miss funnel cakes, Denisea. And elephant ears. Remember those?

I had planned to take my kids to the Fete Foraine in the Tuileries, but didn't know it was "sleazy". Can you elaborate, Kerouac?

Pepper_von_snoot

Did you pick up any mecs in the park?

I am sure there is a cruising area with all those trees and bushes for
privacy.

I like the photo of Madame with the microphone best. She looks like she can't wait to go home, put her feet up and drink a bottle of Stoli.


Thin

kerouac

Thin, the Bois de Vincennes caters to every imaginable need in different areas. There is an absolutely fascinating new documentary about it, poetically titled <i>Le bois dont les rêves sont faits</i> (The woods of which dreams are made). It shows the working women, the pervs, the peeping toms, homeless people and others who have voluntarily decided to live in the wild... in Paris, forestry workers, Cambodians worshiping at the Buddhist temple, cyclists, joggers, professional dog walkers... It is a whole world in itself. I was kind of happy that it did not reveal my own secret abandoned garden of desolation, but here it is anyway: http://tinyurl.com/zzf29al

Christina

I've been to St Germain en Laye several times and there have always been lots of tourists there when I was (including around the chateau and terrace), it's not unknown -- at least in the town and the chateau, and some museums. I've never been in the forest, though. I guess it's relative, no, it wasn't as crowded as central Paris.

Agree with the Tuileries, but it's central so people just run across it while in the city.

PalenQ

Is this a typical Paris picnic spot for Parisians?

https://bonjourparis.com/food-and-dr...risian-picnic/

kerouac

Unlike tourists who often say they had a "picnic" when they actually just ate a sandwich on a bench, the French like to sprawl out on a picnic. The youngest are fine with the hard stone banks along the Seine or the canals, but once you reach age 30 a bit more comfort is desired, so people go to the parks in the outer arrondissements with a blanket and full picnic equipment where they can relax. Relaxation is not as easy in the more central parks like the Luxembourg, Champ de Mars or Parc Monceau because they are patrolled much more by the authorities since there are sections of forbidden lawns to protect. And they also tell people what they are allowed to drink, which is almost never an issue in outer Paris.

Ackislander

Ah, the 46 bus. It passed outside the window of our rental in the 10th last June, and we, like you, took it to Vincennes. It is a long trip indeed, but when one is retired and in Paris, what else is one going to do?

We saw a lovely fight on our bus between two young women, one of whom criticized the mothering skills of the other. The critic thought she would make her remarks and get away, but they were both getting off at the same stop! Oh, dear!

What does one call someone who is a flaneur but does it by bus rather than on foot?

I will settle down with your pictures this weekend, Kerouac. Thank you.

Nikki

What a fascinating trip I have just taken down the rabbit hole, following the links to the "abandoned garden of desolation" above, and then to an article about the use of that property during the Colonial Exposition as a "human zoo".

Thank you, Kerouac, for letting us tag along as you peer into the corners and under the rugs to uncover the things I would never have seen or thought to look for.

kerouac

Now is as good a time as any to revive an old thread of mine, since today I returned to my secret abandoned garden of desolation in Paris.

The abandoned garden of desolation | Any Port in a Storm

billandcindy

My wife and I visited the quite expansive Parc de St. Cloud on Bastille Day last July. It is on the west side of the Paris agglomeration and overlooks the city a bit like the chateau at St.German-en-Laye does but from a slightly different angle. We were enroute to (à pied) the Mémorial de L'Escadrille La Fayette, just outside the park and farther to the west. The Mémorial, itself in a fairly large park-like setting, commemorates the 68 American flyers who died in the service of France in the early days of WWI. Almost no one was in the Parc or at the Mémorial despite it being a good day, at least by Paris standards. (Maybe the Bastille Day parade with Trump attending kept the French glued to their TVs.) So, if you're trying to get away from tourists and would like to explore two new areas, I would recommend the Parc and the Mémorial to you (as well as the historically significant chateau at St. German-en-Laye).

kerouac

I need to fully investigate the Parc de Saint Cloud one day. My only visit was to drive through with my mother one day when she was no longer able to walk. (On the plus side, if you have a handicap permit, you can drive into the park free of charge.) It was clear that there were many things to see in the park.

PegS

That looks amazing, kerouac. I've only been to the very public side of Bois de Vincennes, and even that was enchanting. I'm looking forward to crashing your garden the next time I'm back in Paris.

nukesafe

You are a true treasure for this Forum, Kerouac! Your wonderful excursions are the only reason I keep returning to this site. Please keep reporting for us.