Nukesafe in Paris, Welkenraedt, and Amsterdam
Jun 13th, 2011, 06:28 PM
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Nukesafe in Paris, Welkenraedt, and Amsterdam
I'm a bit late in beginning this report, as I got a cold somewhere over there, and it developed into pneumonia after I returned. I'm well on the mend, so it is time to share some of our adventures. I am indebted to all of those on the Forum from whom I received advice and council in the year-long planning stage.
I am going to try to dampen my tendency to give too many details (worked for the Government, you know) and skip reporting the parts most of you have already done or read about.
The short of it:
Left Seattle on 14 May, 2011, and returned from Amsterdam on 31 May, 2011.
Things happened between those two dates.
The somewhat longer of it:
We flew on an open jaw Icelandair flight out of Seattle to Paris, and back from Amsterdam for two main reasons. First, it was cheap. Second, it offered the shortest travel time. I used Hipmunk www.hipmunk.com , a site that was new to me. The advantage was one can sort flights a number of ways, one of which is “Agony”. They combine factors such as cost, flight time, and layovers to come up with a list that had, in our case, Icelandair the second shortest flight, 11 hours 25 minutes, and by far the cheapest price. Air France nonstop was the shortest flight by about an hour, but it cost well over double the $829 we paid. There was a 45 minute stopover in Iceland, and a longer one coming back
Be warned, Icelandair is one of those “desperate to survive” airlines where nothing is free. Each passenger is given a bottle of genuine Iceland glacier water on boarding, and that is it. Period. You pay for everything else. Load up on snacks in your carry-on. They also have very strict weight limitations for carry-on, at six kilos. Our traveling companions could not believe they really meant that. They did, so they had to check their bags. We believed them, and put everything heavy in a daypack, or big handbag, and squeaked our roll-aboards just at the limit.
The other negative about Icelandair is their aircraft are obviously configured for short hauls. The pitch is 32 inches in economy, which is all right, but the seats themselves are covered with some sort of plastic, and are HARD.
Not comfortable at all for a 12 hour flight. See if you can grab an extra pillow for your sit-upon.
When I talk of “We”, I'm not using the Imperial, We, I'm talking about myself, Dick, my Dear Wife, Annette, and our great next door neighbors Dan and Amy. I'm 80, DW is about ten years behind me, and Dan and Amy are mere youngsters. We have been to Paris a number of times, as has Amy, but this would be Dan's first time.
Our flight left at 4:00 pm from Sea, and got in shortly after 1:00 pm Paris time. No sleep for anyone, as it never got dark on the polar route. We left the decision of whether to taxi or RER into town until we arrived. We were pooped, but wired, so we lined up at the ticket counter, and got all of the transport stuff done right then. I got RER tickets to town, recharged our Navigos, bought new Navigos for Dan & Amy, and a Carnet for each couple, as it was Sunday and the Navigos would not be valid until the next day.
We checked into our apartment on the Ile de la Cite, without problems. It was just as advertized; simply perfect. http://www.vrbo.com/171773 We were concerned because the beds shown on the website are “Murphy” beds; the kind that fold up into the wall, and we were afraid that meant the rooms were very small. Not true at all. We never saw the need to fold the beds out of the way in either bedroom. After choosing bedrooms and unpacking a bit, we resisted the urge to collapse and went walking over the Petit Pont into the Latin Quarter, where we picked a cafe at random, and ate something I cannot remember. Walked a bit more and hit the hay.
Monday morning, I had arranged for us to take a sightseeing tour with the new bus company, Foxity. http://foxity.com/ at 11:00. I thought it a good way for us to get Dan an overall view of the city, and the rest of us a refresher. We caught a bus to the Madeleine area, intending to grab a cheap breakfast. We soon found out that this was not the right area to expect cheap breakfasts. We ended up in a bar, where a croissant and cafe crème cost as much as we had planned for lunches. From there we wandered around, looking in windows Ladueree, Fauchon, and high end fashion houses, until we found the passage in which Foxity was supposed to live. It was not open, but the sign said if that were the case, go to the bus. Around the corner, we found the 10:00 bus getting ready to depart. I showed the nice lady my reservation, were handed a set of ear buds, seated ourselves up top, and away we went. Very good value for money, IMO. We got a glimpse of, and a bit of history about a lot of things I had never seen and/or noticed before in just under two hours.
When we got back to the Madeleine, we got off the bus and thought about lunch. Our experience with the cost of breakfast made us start looking for a bus – but then I remembered that lunch was served by volunteer ladies in the basement of the Madeleine itself. I could not remember exactly where the entrance was, so we walked all the way around the building (it's a big mother), to find a sign on the East side near the flower market.
You first go down a few steps, where a lady behind a table will help you to buy a membership in the “Association du Foyer de la Madeleine” for only a few Euro; five I think. That lets you come back as many times as you wish. You then go to your left, where you pay another nice lady €7.50 for lunch. She will also sell you small bottles of (quite drinkable) wine for €3 (?) Yet another lady will find out the number in your party, and lead you to a suitable table. Our lady spoke some English, and explained the menu. There were choices of at least five entrees, three plats, and three deserts. Not up to the standard of Jules Verne, perhaps, but well prepared, tasty, and served with good humor. Our volunteer lady kept coming back and gushing about her trip to visit her Sister in Florida.
A really enjoyable experience. We all said we would come back again, if we were in the area and hungry. Didn't happen this trip, but I'm going to keep my membership card for next time.
I'll post this part of the report now, and guilt will force me to go on to complete it.
I am going to try to dampen my tendency to give too many details (worked for the Government, you know) and skip reporting the parts most of you have already done or read about.
The short of it:
Left Seattle on 14 May, 2011, and returned from Amsterdam on 31 May, 2011.
Things happened between those two dates.
The somewhat longer of it:
We flew on an open jaw Icelandair flight out of Seattle to Paris, and back from Amsterdam for two main reasons. First, it was cheap. Second, it offered the shortest travel time. I used Hipmunk www.hipmunk.com , a site that was new to me. The advantage was one can sort flights a number of ways, one of which is “Agony”. They combine factors such as cost, flight time, and layovers to come up with a list that had, in our case, Icelandair the second shortest flight, 11 hours 25 minutes, and by far the cheapest price. Air France nonstop was the shortest flight by about an hour, but it cost well over double the $829 we paid. There was a 45 minute stopover in Iceland, and a longer one coming back
Be warned, Icelandair is one of those “desperate to survive” airlines where nothing is free. Each passenger is given a bottle of genuine Iceland glacier water on boarding, and that is it. Period. You pay for everything else. Load up on snacks in your carry-on. They also have very strict weight limitations for carry-on, at six kilos. Our traveling companions could not believe they really meant that. They did, so they had to check their bags. We believed them, and put everything heavy in a daypack, or big handbag, and squeaked our roll-aboards just at the limit.
The other negative about Icelandair is their aircraft are obviously configured for short hauls. The pitch is 32 inches in economy, which is all right, but the seats themselves are covered with some sort of plastic, and are HARD.
Not comfortable at all for a 12 hour flight. See if you can grab an extra pillow for your sit-upon.
When I talk of “We”, I'm not using the Imperial, We, I'm talking about myself, Dick, my Dear Wife, Annette, and our great next door neighbors Dan and Amy. I'm 80, DW is about ten years behind me, and Dan and Amy are mere youngsters. We have been to Paris a number of times, as has Amy, but this would be Dan's first time.
Our flight left at 4:00 pm from Sea, and got in shortly after 1:00 pm Paris time. No sleep for anyone, as it never got dark on the polar route. We left the decision of whether to taxi or RER into town until we arrived. We were pooped, but wired, so we lined up at the ticket counter, and got all of the transport stuff done right then. I got RER tickets to town, recharged our Navigos, bought new Navigos for Dan & Amy, and a Carnet for each couple, as it was Sunday and the Navigos would not be valid until the next day.
We checked into our apartment on the Ile de la Cite, without problems. It was just as advertized; simply perfect. http://www.vrbo.com/171773 We were concerned because the beds shown on the website are “Murphy” beds; the kind that fold up into the wall, and we were afraid that meant the rooms were very small. Not true at all. We never saw the need to fold the beds out of the way in either bedroom. After choosing bedrooms and unpacking a bit, we resisted the urge to collapse and went walking over the Petit Pont into the Latin Quarter, where we picked a cafe at random, and ate something I cannot remember. Walked a bit more and hit the hay.
Monday morning, I had arranged for us to take a sightseeing tour with the new bus company, Foxity. http://foxity.com/ at 11:00. I thought it a good way for us to get Dan an overall view of the city, and the rest of us a refresher. We caught a bus to the Madeleine area, intending to grab a cheap breakfast. We soon found out that this was not the right area to expect cheap breakfasts. We ended up in a bar, where a croissant and cafe crème cost as much as we had planned for lunches. From there we wandered around, looking in windows Ladueree, Fauchon, and high end fashion houses, until we found the passage in which Foxity was supposed to live. It was not open, but the sign said if that were the case, go to the bus. Around the corner, we found the 10:00 bus getting ready to depart. I showed the nice lady my reservation, were handed a set of ear buds, seated ourselves up top, and away we went. Very good value for money, IMO. We got a glimpse of, and a bit of history about a lot of things I had never seen and/or noticed before in just under two hours.
When we got back to the Madeleine, we got off the bus and thought about lunch. Our experience with the cost of breakfast made us start looking for a bus – but then I remembered that lunch was served by volunteer ladies in the basement of the Madeleine itself. I could not remember exactly where the entrance was, so we walked all the way around the building (it's a big mother), to find a sign on the East side near the flower market.
You first go down a few steps, where a lady behind a table will help you to buy a membership in the “Association du Foyer de la Madeleine” for only a few Euro; five I think. That lets you come back as many times as you wish. You then go to your left, where you pay another nice lady €7.50 for lunch. She will also sell you small bottles of (quite drinkable) wine for €3 (?) Yet another lady will find out the number in your party, and lead you to a suitable table. Our lady spoke some English, and explained the menu. There were choices of at least five entrees, three plats, and three deserts. Not up to the standard of Jules Verne, perhaps, but well prepared, tasty, and served with good humor. Our volunteer lady kept coming back and gushing about her trip to visit her Sister in Florida.
A really enjoyable experience. We all said we would come back again, if we were in the area and hungry. Didn't happen this trip, but I'm going to keep my membership card for next time.
I'll post this part of the report now, and guilt will force me to go on to complete it.
Jun 13th, 2011, 07:07 PM
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I am so glad that you are feeling better
I am hooked on your trip report already! We are headed back to France this summer and the lunch at Madeleine sounds perfect for us, so thank you for the information. Personally, I like trip reports with lots of details, so please write as much as you can
I am hooked on your trip report already! We are headed back to France this summer and the lunch at Madeleine sounds perfect for us, so thank you for the information. Personally, I like trip reports with lots of details, so please write as much as you can
Jun 14th, 2011, 07:49 AM
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I'm getting there. If anyone wants to "read ahead" I already posted an snippet from later in the trip, titled a "Bad Rental Experience in Amsterdam". Just search for either that title, or my screen name to bring up the post. It's a cautionary tale about not doing one's due diligence in choosing a rental.
Jun 14th, 2011, 09:56 AM
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As far as I can tell from the pictures of the apt., we were in the apt. just above you. We became real familiar with the stained glass window, wondering what was on the other side, as we climbed to the next floor. Yours looks much nicer but we needed 2 baths. We also had that patio sitting above the courtyard. Came in the same day as you (were supposed to arrive Sat. but that's another story.) It will be fun to read your report and compare experiences. The location is perfect , especially for first timers, we had two and , if my memory serves me, so did you. I hope to write a small report but am preparing for out of town guests. Keep on writing, you have an eager audience. CJ
Jun 14th, 2011, 11:40 AM
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Carol Jean, I didn't know about the apartment above us. I only guessed there was one because you must have had a party/dinner on your patio one evening. No problems, you evidently went inside before we went to bed, but it sounded as if you were having a good time.
One reason we chose the apartment was the fact that Annette is a glass artist. Her website is http://lumenaeries.com/Lumenaeries.com/Welcome.html if you have an interest in glass art.
Yeah, we could have used two bathrooms, too. We managed, however. Would you mind posting a link to your apartment, just for my curiosity? We agree the location was perfect, but we will probably locate further out next time. The crowds around Notre Dame, and the distance to groceries were negatives for us.
One reason we chose the apartment was the fact that Annette is a glass artist. Her website is http://lumenaeries.com/Lumenaeries.com/Welcome.html if you have an interest in glass art.
Yeah, we could have used two bathrooms, too. We managed, however. Would you mind posting a link to your apartment, just for my curiosity? We agree the location was perfect, but we will probably locate further out next time. The crowds around Notre Dame, and the distance to groceries were negatives for us.
Jun 14th, 2011, 11:55 AM
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We did the usual things, including another dumb one. We wanted Dan and Amy to be sure to see the d'Orsay, since we love it so much. That was not the dumb thing. The dumb thing was to not to follow the good advice of Fodor's folks and buy our museum passes at a less crowded museum. Got stuck in a 45 minute line. We did not think our Museum passes would be good value for money for us, but Dan and Amy intended to go to Versailles, and a two day pass made sense for them, financially.
The museum's top floors are still under renovation, and that means the escalator at the back is not in use. My old bones regretted that, but there is still enough wonders on display to numb the mind. We had lunch in the delightfully decorated restaurant under the clock. The secret is to arrive about 11:30 and wait in the line for opening at 11:45. We were about forth in line, and it stretched behind us a long way, as we were seated. In a splendid room they serve a set menu for €16:50 that was well plated and delicious. My companions ordered a la carte, but I went whole hog and got the menu. When it came time for my desert I asked the friendly waiter what my choices were. He said, “Just follow me.” and led me to the desert cart, so I could pick out something for myself – and the others who wanted a taste.
That night, still feeling a bit jet-laggy, we were sitting around the kitchen table trying to decide where to have dinner. I had heard good things about the restaurant that was just around the corner from the apartment, Au Bougnat. http://www.aubougnat.com/accueil.html It was a bit late, but I trotted (all right, shambled) downstairs and asked if they could fit in a party of four. They had one table left, so I rushed (OK, wheezed) back upstairs to gather the troops for dinner, “Right Now”. Good choice, it turned out, as it was one of the best meals of our trip. The name, by the way, means “coal seller”. We also had lunch there one day, and it was equally good.
Avenue President Wilson street market was a highlight. We had stumbled on this before, and Annette and I made a point to visit it on Wednesday morning. Dan and Amy were doing something else, so we toddled off to the Pont d'Lena bus stop (We seldom use the Metro, now.), and wandered up the hill from one delightful stand to the next. I know Kerouac is appalled at the prices charged in this affluent neighborhood, but for a visitor that hardly matters. I saw my first wild asparagus for sale here. There was the usual green asparagus we yanks know, the thick white variably that was just in season, and other bunches of sprigs that were labeled Asparagus, that looked more like stalks of green wheat to me.
http://tinyurl.com/3h9fdar Did not get the chance to try any, but I certainly did get to eat the white asparagus on several occasions. On a lot of menus, since it is in season.
Musée National du Moyen Âge For some reason we had never visited the Cluny before. There always seemed to be something more to see than shabby old tapestries. Boy, was I wrong. A wonderful museum, containing some awesome things. Strongly recommended.
We went with Dan and Amy to the Luxembourg gardens. Bought baguette sandwiches and drinks (beer for me) at a stand across from the entrance and ate while sitting on a bench listening to an orchestra playing classical music on the bandstand. We then wandered around the pond, where unfortunately there were no kids playing with sailboats, and on to the playground where we watched the kids having a great time on playground equipment that would send any OSHA inspector in the States into cardiac arrest.
Since it was a nice day, we walked past the Pantheon (didn't go in – next time) and on to the Jardin des Plantes. I had wanted to see the Museum of Evolution for some time. “Evolution” - these misguided foreigners do have some strange ideas. Just imagine having a place called that in the States. Anyway it is a magnificent display, in a lovely old building. Well worth the time, if you have any sort of scientific background and/or an open mind.
That’s enough for today. I need a nap.
The museum's top floors are still under renovation, and that means the escalator at the back is not in use. My old bones regretted that, but there is still enough wonders on display to numb the mind. We had lunch in the delightfully decorated restaurant under the clock. The secret is to arrive about 11:30 and wait in the line for opening at 11:45. We were about forth in line, and it stretched behind us a long way, as we were seated. In a splendid room they serve a set menu for €16:50 that was well plated and delicious. My companions ordered a la carte, but I went whole hog and got the menu. When it came time for my desert I asked the friendly waiter what my choices were. He said, “Just follow me.” and led me to the desert cart, so I could pick out something for myself – and the others who wanted a taste.
That night, still feeling a bit jet-laggy, we were sitting around the kitchen table trying to decide where to have dinner. I had heard good things about the restaurant that was just around the corner from the apartment, Au Bougnat. http://www.aubougnat.com/accueil.html It was a bit late, but I trotted (all right, shambled) downstairs and asked if they could fit in a party of four. They had one table left, so I rushed (OK, wheezed) back upstairs to gather the troops for dinner, “Right Now”. Good choice, it turned out, as it was one of the best meals of our trip. The name, by the way, means “coal seller”. We also had lunch there one day, and it was equally good.
Avenue President Wilson street market was a highlight. We had stumbled on this before, and Annette and I made a point to visit it on Wednesday morning. Dan and Amy were doing something else, so we toddled off to the Pont d'Lena bus stop (We seldom use the Metro, now.), and wandered up the hill from one delightful stand to the next. I know Kerouac is appalled at the prices charged in this affluent neighborhood, but for a visitor that hardly matters. I saw my first wild asparagus for sale here. There was the usual green asparagus we yanks know, the thick white variably that was just in season, and other bunches of sprigs that were labeled Asparagus, that looked more like stalks of green wheat to me.
http://tinyurl.com/3h9fdar Did not get the chance to try any, but I certainly did get to eat the white asparagus on several occasions. On a lot of menus, since it is in season.
Musée National du Moyen Âge For some reason we had never visited the Cluny before. There always seemed to be something more to see than shabby old tapestries. Boy, was I wrong. A wonderful museum, containing some awesome things. Strongly recommended.
We went with Dan and Amy to the Luxembourg gardens. Bought baguette sandwiches and drinks (beer for me) at a stand across from the entrance and ate while sitting on a bench listening to an orchestra playing classical music on the bandstand. We then wandered around the pond, where unfortunately there were no kids playing with sailboats, and on to the playground where we watched the kids having a great time on playground equipment that would send any OSHA inspector in the States into cardiac arrest.
Since it was a nice day, we walked past the Pantheon (didn't go in – next time) and on to the Jardin des Plantes. I had wanted to see the Museum of Evolution for some time. “Evolution” - these misguided foreigners do have some strange ideas. Just imagine having a place called that in the States. Anyway it is a magnificent display, in a lovely old building. Well worth the time, if you have any sort of scientific background and/or an open mind.
That’s enough for today. I need a nap.
Jun 14th, 2011, 02:03 PM
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Yet there are bargains to be had, Kerouac. My dear, sweet, wife bought three hats at a stall in the market. While she was quibbling over the price, the vendor asked her, "Do you know what these would cost you in a department store?" We both did, because we had walked around shops on the Ile Ste. Louis, and the Latin Quarter the day before, and I had seen the price tags on those (I'm being diplomatic here) lovely creations Annette was trying on.
Would make a grown man weep --
The price of the three hats did make me blink in the market, but there was no public sobbing.
Would make a grown man weep --
The price of the three hats did make me blink in the market, but there was no public sobbing.
Jun 14th, 2011, 04:10 PM
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The web site for our apt. is www.vrbo.com/3121878 or www.paris-flats.com We were in Chanoinesse 6. There is quite a bit of puffery in the description, using words like 'dream' and 'luxury.' We were quite happy there. It suited our purpose but we, also, would not stay there again. We have stayed on Rue Maitre Albert - just across the river and on Isle St. Louis so we are certainly ready to move on.
We didn't have the dinner/party. We are in your age bracket and just went out there to rest, journal and have a glass of wine after returning from the excursion of the day. On your level, behind us (away from Chanoinese) was another patio/deck which appeared to belong to local .residents and they may have had friends over.
Thanks for your wife's web site. Her work is lovely. The next time we are in the area we will certainly try to see it in person. We are in Bend, Or. and have a brother in Bellingham so we may venture up that way this summer.
We also went down to Au Bougnat and had a very good meal. Thanks for the report. Maybe I can do a short one later. CJ
We didn't have the dinner/party. We are in your age bracket and just went out there to rest, journal and have a glass of wine after returning from the excursion of the day. On your level, behind us (away from Chanoinese) was another patio/deck which appeared to belong to local .residents and they may have had friends over.
Thanks for your wife's web site. Her work is lovely. The next time we are in the area we will certainly try to see it in person. We are in Bend, Or. and have a brother in Bellingham so we may venture up that way this summer.
We also went down to Au Bougnat and had a very good meal. Thanks for the report. Maybe I can do a short one later. CJ
Jun 15th, 2011, 09:04 AM
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We have always loved Train Bleu, and have had lunch there every time we were in Paris, so we made an early dinner reservation. We wanted Dan and Amy to experience that magnificent room. I had worn a jacket on the plane, and even packed a tie for what might be our only splurge dinner. Dan did the same. Unfortunately, it was not a complete success. We were stuck at a table next to the lounge, behind a serving station. I asked for a more central station, but the manager came over and said there were no other tables available, they had a large party, but that we would get really good service. I guess we did, but the sparkle had gone from the evening, and even the food, though beautifully plated, did not seem so special.
Shortly after the entree, Dan reached up and wrenched off his tie, and I did the same. You have to realize that in our tiny town of Anacortes, Washington, “Dress Up” means “Clean blue jeans”. Formal is, “Clean blue jeans with no paint spots. Big belt buckle optional”.
We will still go back, but will probably stick to lunch.
Poo ------
St. Denis was a wonderment! I have heard folks rave about it – “but it is so far out” ------. It is NOT too far out! By metro from Chatelet, it is 24 minutes, with one transfer at Saint-Lazare, plus a three minute walk. It is simply breathtaking, and one has the place almost to one's self. Get the audio guide by all means. My understanding of French history was advanced by orders of magnitude by this experience.
After our tour we decided to have a light lunch at the large restaurant on the square, on the right as you leave the Basilica. It was a warm and sunny day and we considered eating outside, though Annette usually does not enjoy windblown lunches. No, we decided after looking at the menu board, let's save some money, as the prices inside are usually cheaper. We went inside, were seated in an almost empty room, and ordered a beer for me and a water for DW, while we looked at the menu. Whoops! This was NOT one of the places where it is less expensive inside; quite the opposite. Very fancy place, no “menu”, and none of the dishes on the board outside appeared on the carte. The prices approached those of Train Bleu. I had no hesitation in calling the waiter over, paying for my beer, and walking outside to enjoy a light lunch for a reasonable price at an outside table.
Us grumpy old codgers can get away with a lot.
We did the Louvre with Dan and Amy. Always new things to see. Our interests differ, so we split tacks after Napoleon III's apartments, and met later in the cafe.
Aux Trois Mailletz: We always take in the show there when we are in town. High energy entertainment that lasts all night really turns us on. Originally, Dan and Amy were going to attend as well, but mid-trip exhaustion/ sensory overload was getting to them, so they opted out. We decided not to have dinner there this time, but went to the upstairs bar for a drink around 10:30 to listen to the singers. One of the paid (?) singers had just finished a portion of an aria, when an attractive lady at a table, belted out a few bars of another operatic selection that just blew the room away. She got up, talked to the pianists and belted out a couple of spectacular numbers. That is one of the attractions that keeps us dropping in for an evening drink at the upstairs bar. I like their moules et frites, as well.
Anyway, I asked the manager when we should go into the cellar, and he said, “Now”, so we went down around 10:45 to be given a couple of seats way up front on the side. I was against the wall, so one of the arches blocked some of my view, but because we were within feet of the acts, it hardly mattered. BTW, the cover charge is now €20 on week nights, and €25 on Friday and Saturday. We were not disappointed this time, either. Audience participation is always part of the fun, and Annette was one of the first to be dragged on stage to dance. I was content to watch. We had never seen so many of the audience dancing on the long central tables as this time. The performers always do, very cleverly ducking under the low arches as part of their acts. Drunken patrons doing their gyrations up on the table top were not so skillful, and it was part of the fun guessing which one would crack their noggin on those ancient stones.
One delight was that Pascal Horn was on that night. He is a male soprano that can just blow the audience away. Here is a link to him singing a slow number http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zEw6e...eature=related but it gives no idea how his high energy delivery of faster numbers can electrify a close proximity room like Trois Mailletz.
The action never stopped until sometime after 05:00; no intermissions, no breaks, just one act blending into the next. The place really jumped! There were still folks playing and singing on stage at around 5:15, but we left then (we must be getting old.) to walk across the Petit Pont, past Notre Dame to our apartment, as the sky started to lighten just before dawn. A wonderful evening. Not too expensive, either. Annette nursed one glass of port the whole evening, though I had more than my share of beers to compensate.
That day got off to a slow start for us, but those young puppies, Dan and Amy, were all raring to go. “Most annoying”, said the old grouch.
The Musee des Arts et Metiers is another place I always try to visit. Being a scientific type, the place fascinates me, with it's endless displays of mechanical and architectural marvels which prove conclusively that the French invented simply everything. From Lavoisier's laboratory and apparatus, to the early aircraft hanging in the old church, I never fail to discover new wonders. I did this one on my own. Annette came with me last time, mostly to see Lavoisier's lab, as she is a chemist, but once was enough for her.
Last time I visited, We had the place essentially to ourelves. Unfortunately this time my visit coincided with the visit of French students by the bus load. Each was armed with a notebook and were scribbling away to prepare a report on some aspect of French ingenuity. Made for a less than contemplative visit.
One thing I had never noticed was a display of the building of the Statue of Liberty. Encased in glass were scale models of the workshops where the original plaster model was scaled up to full size. Tiny workmen mixing buckets of plaster, climbing long ladders to slather it on the huge head, following the directions of foremen who were translating the measurements with giant calipers. Another case showed how the huge sheets of copper were formed to fit exactly the enormous plaster model, using hammers and skill.
Coincidentally, as I entered the museum, I noticed a small scale Statue of Liberty in the courtyard. I did not recall it from before, but my aging synapses ----------- Later in the trip I saw an article that said the statue was newly made and placed. The government had given first time permission for 12 copies to be made of the fragile original plaster model of the statue that Berthodi made. Measurements were taken by laser, so the original was not damaged, and the replicates were cast in bronze by the same foundry that used to cast Rodin's works. The one outside the Museum is number one of the edition.
A lot of our time was spent just wandering. We prowled many small galleries and shops, mostly looking for glass art. Saw many interesting things, but very little in the way of the glass art Annette was interested in.
One shop we particularly enjoyed, and the only one in which I bought something, was Pylones. It is a French company, which has now come to the U.S., that has loosed their creative designers on the world of kitchen utensils. Not just that, but they seem to have taken a new approach on almost all everyday items. “This is a fork. How can I redesign this thing so that it still functions as a fork, but either looks like something else, does other things, or just looks cute/funny as hell?”, must be the question that inspires their designs. A delight to browse. There is one on the Ile Saint-Louis.
That's enough for today. More later.
Shortly after the entree, Dan reached up and wrenched off his tie, and I did the same. You have to realize that in our tiny town of Anacortes, Washington, “Dress Up” means “Clean blue jeans”. Formal is, “Clean blue jeans with no paint spots. Big belt buckle optional”.
We will still go back, but will probably stick to lunch.
Poo ------
St. Denis was a wonderment! I have heard folks rave about it – “but it is so far out” ------. It is NOT too far out! By metro from Chatelet, it is 24 minutes, with one transfer at Saint-Lazare, plus a three minute walk. It is simply breathtaking, and one has the place almost to one's self. Get the audio guide by all means. My understanding of French history was advanced by orders of magnitude by this experience.
After our tour we decided to have a light lunch at the large restaurant on the square, on the right as you leave the Basilica. It was a warm and sunny day and we considered eating outside, though Annette usually does not enjoy windblown lunches. No, we decided after looking at the menu board, let's save some money, as the prices inside are usually cheaper. We went inside, were seated in an almost empty room, and ordered a beer for me and a water for DW, while we looked at the menu. Whoops! This was NOT one of the places where it is less expensive inside; quite the opposite. Very fancy place, no “menu”, and none of the dishes on the board outside appeared on the carte. The prices approached those of Train Bleu. I had no hesitation in calling the waiter over, paying for my beer, and walking outside to enjoy a light lunch for a reasonable price at an outside table.
Us grumpy old codgers can get away with a lot.
We did the Louvre with Dan and Amy. Always new things to see. Our interests differ, so we split tacks after Napoleon III's apartments, and met later in the cafe.
Aux Trois Mailletz: We always take in the show there when we are in town. High energy entertainment that lasts all night really turns us on. Originally, Dan and Amy were going to attend as well, but mid-trip exhaustion/ sensory overload was getting to them, so they opted out. We decided not to have dinner there this time, but went to the upstairs bar for a drink around 10:30 to listen to the singers. One of the paid (?) singers had just finished a portion of an aria, when an attractive lady at a table, belted out a few bars of another operatic selection that just blew the room away. She got up, talked to the pianists and belted out a couple of spectacular numbers. That is one of the attractions that keeps us dropping in for an evening drink at the upstairs bar. I like their moules et frites, as well.
Anyway, I asked the manager when we should go into the cellar, and he said, “Now”, so we went down around 10:45 to be given a couple of seats way up front on the side. I was against the wall, so one of the arches blocked some of my view, but because we were within feet of the acts, it hardly mattered. BTW, the cover charge is now €20 on week nights, and €25 on Friday and Saturday. We were not disappointed this time, either. Audience participation is always part of the fun, and Annette was one of the first to be dragged on stage to dance. I was content to watch. We had never seen so many of the audience dancing on the long central tables as this time. The performers always do, very cleverly ducking under the low arches as part of their acts. Drunken patrons doing their gyrations up on the table top were not so skillful, and it was part of the fun guessing which one would crack their noggin on those ancient stones.
One delight was that Pascal Horn was on that night. He is a male soprano that can just blow the audience away. Here is a link to him singing a slow number http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zEw6e...eature=related but it gives no idea how his high energy delivery of faster numbers can electrify a close proximity room like Trois Mailletz.
The action never stopped until sometime after 05:00; no intermissions, no breaks, just one act blending into the next. The place really jumped! There were still folks playing and singing on stage at around 5:15, but we left then (we must be getting old.) to walk across the Petit Pont, past Notre Dame to our apartment, as the sky started to lighten just before dawn. A wonderful evening. Not too expensive, either. Annette nursed one glass of port the whole evening, though I had more than my share of beers to compensate.
That day got off to a slow start for us, but those young puppies, Dan and Amy, were all raring to go. “Most annoying”, said the old grouch.
The Musee des Arts et Metiers is another place I always try to visit. Being a scientific type, the place fascinates me, with it's endless displays of mechanical and architectural marvels which prove conclusively that the French invented simply everything. From Lavoisier's laboratory and apparatus, to the early aircraft hanging in the old church, I never fail to discover new wonders. I did this one on my own. Annette came with me last time, mostly to see Lavoisier's lab, as she is a chemist, but once was enough for her.
Last time I visited, We had the place essentially to ourelves. Unfortunately this time my visit coincided with the visit of French students by the bus load. Each was armed with a notebook and were scribbling away to prepare a report on some aspect of French ingenuity. Made for a less than contemplative visit.
One thing I had never noticed was a display of the building of the Statue of Liberty. Encased in glass were scale models of the workshops where the original plaster model was scaled up to full size. Tiny workmen mixing buckets of plaster, climbing long ladders to slather it on the huge head, following the directions of foremen who were translating the measurements with giant calipers. Another case showed how the huge sheets of copper were formed to fit exactly the enormous plaster model, using hammers and skill.
Coincidentally, as I entered the museum, I noticed a small scale Statue of Liberty in the courtyard. I did not recall it from before, but my aging synapses ----------- Later in the trip I saw an article that said the statue was newly made and placed. The government had given first time permission for 12 copies to be made of the fragile original plaster model of the statue that Berthodi made. Measurements were taken by laser, so the original was not damaged, and the replicates were cast in bronze by the same foundry that used to cast Rodin's works. The one outside the Museum is number one of the edition.
A lot of our time was spent just wandering. We prowled many small galleries and shops, mostly looking for glass art. Saw many interesting things, but very little in the way of the glass art Annette was interested in.
One shop we particularly enjoyed, and the only one in which I bought something, was Pylones. It is a French company, which has now come to the U.S., that has loosed their creative designers on the world of kitchen utensils. Not just that, but they seem to have taken a new approach on almost all everyday items. “This is a fork. How can I redesign this thing so that it still functions as a fork, but either looks like something else, does other things, or just looks cute/funny as hell?”, must be the question that inspires their designs. A delight to browse. There is one on the Ile Saint-Louis.
That's enough for today. More later.
Jun 15th, 2011, 01:41 PM
#17
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CarolJean, Thank you for the link to your apartment. The photos certainly make it look good; sorry it did not live up to your expectations.
Thank you, also, for the nice things you said about Annette's work. Unfortunately she is not currently showing any of her work in Bellingham, but currently has pieces in the Museum of Northwest Art in La Connor, Insights Gallery in Anacortes, and at the Matzke Fine Art Gallery and Sculpture Garden on Camano island. If you are in the area, we would love for you to stop by and have a chat about Paris, and have a look around her studio. Just contact her at the email address listed on her web site.
Dick
Thank you, also, for the nice things you said about Annette's work. Unfortunately she is not currently showing any of her work in Bellingham, but currently has pieces in the Museum of Northwest Art in La Connor, Insights Gallery in Anacortes, and at the Matzke Fine Art Gallery and Sculpture Garden on Camano island. If you are in the area, we would love for you to stop by and have a chat about Paris, and have a look around her studio. Just contact her at the email address listed on her web site.
Dick
Jun 15th, 2011, 07:08 PM
#20
Love Au Bougnat---it's not well known and quite a plain room, however the food is great and well priced for Paris. We've been there many times on our travels. "Boom", the Asian girl that runs around doing erverything efficiently is a real joy.
We also enjoy " Le Train Bleu"---loved your description on "dress up"---the more we travel, the more we see blue jeans topped by dress wear. Jeans with a fancy, beaded top for ladies and jeans with a sport coat for men. Next time I'm thinking of leaving my dresses at home!!!
Also liked your take on Aux Trois Mallietz----we have always wanted to visit, but haven't made it there after 7 trips to Paris. You have piqued our interest. Maybe next time.
Waiting for more of your report.
We also enjoy " Le Train Bleu"---loved your description on "dress up"---the more we travel, the more we see blue jeans topped by dress wear. Jeans with a fancy, beaded top for ladies and jeans with a sport coat for men. Next time I'm thinking of leaving my dresses at home!!!
Also liked your take on Aux Trois Mallietz----we have always wanted to visit, but haven't made it there after 7 trips to Paris. You have piqued our interest. Maybe next time.
Waiting for more of your report.
