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Norway and Nordics - guidance sought for solo trip in May/June

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Old Apr 14th, 2011, 04:40 AM
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Norway and Nordics - guidance sought for solo trip in May/June

I've been reading up here on Norway and some itineraries combined with Copenhagen or Stockholm. I'm having some trouble getting my arms around things - feeling overwhelmed actually.

I'll likely be solo for most of this trip. My key interests are scenery - especially on the water, small scale culture (art museums/galleries), hiking (not too cliffhanging), cuisine is something I enjoy trying everywhere I go but not the primary goal on this trip...

Here are some general questions but I am open to any advice/suggestions:

1. I am thinking of second half of May into early June - any experiences with weather at that time?

2. I like (love) scenic ferry/train rides and hiking. I prefer not to drive. Will I miss a lot by not driving? How easy/difficult is it to get from place to place on public transportation? I would like to do a bit more than NIN standard tour and have about 2 weeks. What should I include given my interests/lack of car? Must I book in advance for trains at this time of year? How long did you enjoy staying in a particular area - say for instance Bergen or Oslo? Was there a ferry ride not to be missed?

3. Any experiences with the NIN plus hike tour? Any other specific fjord or hiking recs?

4. I am a 51 year old woman of moderate fitness and excellent health. I don't love cliffhanging hikes (some issues with heights). Can I find hikes that are 'safe' to do alone and not too treacherous feeling? Will the weather be right for this sort of thing in May/June? I have hiked solo for up to 3 days but in Switzerland where the trails are well marked and villages can be found every few hours...Is there a similar feel anywhere in the Nordics?

5. I'm thinking of staying in Oslo a couple days - would like to see the Edvard Munch museum. Any other city you would combine with? I have been to Stockholm but in the winter. The archipelago there intrigues me as does a visit to Karl Larsen garden which is further afield.... Have not been to any of the Nordic countries other than the trip to Stockholm in December. Is Copenhagen easily combined?

6. Not to get ahead of myself, but any favorite places to stay/eat? Budget is open but am aiming for local charm/cleanliness/views/friendly versus 5 star accommodations.

I have read Steve's report and also the Go's reports here on Fodors (thanks!!). Both itineraries look great... need some help refining... deciding...

Thank you very kindly for any thoughts/suggestions you might have.

gruezi
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Old Apr 14th, 2011, 06:54 AM
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Some partial answers...

<i>1. I am thinking of second half of May into early June - any experiences with weather at that time?</i>

No guarantees, but I find this to be the best period for weather, at least in Southern Scandinavia. All of the averages suggest this holds for Northern Scandinavia, as well. Weather in Scandinavia, however, is not the best.

<i>Is Copenhagen easily combined?</i>

It is very easily combined. Both Norwegian and SAS have frequent flights and they tend to be quite cheap. There is also an overnight ferry, which is quite expensive.

<i>Not to get ahead of myself, but any favorite places to stay/eat?</i>

If you settle on Copenhagen, I can help. I don't have that much knowledge about Stockholm or Norway.
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Old Apr 14th, 2011, 09:44 AM
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Thanks travelgourmet...

I will followup if I decide on Copenhagen.
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Old Apr 14th, 2011, 10:24 AM
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gruezi, I'm also planning a very short trip to Norway for the end of May and first part of June 2012 and will be doing it solo. Unfortunately I won't have as much time as I'd like but will be following your posts for more information. I've done a little bit of research but like you am finding it a bit dauting especially as I plan to use public transportation.
Good Luck
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Old Apr 14th, 2011, 10:42 AM
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Here are a few small local places to eat in Oslo,Copenhagen and Stockholm:
In Oslo, at the Aker Brygge along the waterfront we had a wonderful large bowl of shrimp for lunch at Lofoten.. both Lofoten and the shrimp dish were recommended by a Norwegian friend.
Copenhagen.. Restaurant Told & Snaps, a small place, below street level, filled with locals who helped us order different smorrebrod. It was on a side street , back and a liitle away from the Nyhaven waterfront.Delicious food, fun place.
Stockholm..
Fjaderholmarna- an island in the archipelago..30 minute boat ridefrom dowtown..Good waterfront restaurant near the ferry landing.
We totally used public transportation in all three cities, easy and reliable.
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Old Apr 14th, 2011, 12:21 PM
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We only did a cruise, and Norway is breathtaking, so I can't give advices, but there is much discussion about "Norway in a Nutshell" - looks like train trip, and gets rave reviews, so check this out.

http://www.visitnorway.com/en/sponso...n-a-nutshell-/

I see fjord cruises on this website - don't miss them. Most beautiful thing. Take another memory card for your camera.
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Old Apr 14th, 2011, 01:20 PM
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Public transportation in Norway (ferries, buses and trains) is excellent, though we found that early May was still very much shoulder season with schedules somewhat curtailed. Here's what we did: two nights in Oslo then a train to Bergen; two nights in Bergen; a bus and ferry to a hotel on the Hardangenfjord where we spent the night. The next day we took a bus to Voss and then the train to Flam and the ferry down the Naeroyfjord, spending the night at the Stalheim hotel. The next morning we took two buses and a ferry to Balestrand on the Sognefjord where we spent the night. We would have liked to stay longer in Balestrand since there are interesting day trips to the glacier from there but we were on a tight schedule. We returned to Bergen by a fast ferry and flew to Stockholm from there.

All transportation is well coordinated which means you get off one bus and the next one comes quickly. Ferries and buses wait for each other. Since we were going to meetings and burdened with business clothes, we left our luggage in the train station in Bergen and carried only knapsacks. That made public transport very easy. We didn't book the trains in advance but did book hotels. Although the Stalheim hotel is overrun with tourists in high season we were the only guests since it had just reopened for the season.
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Old Apr 16th, 2011, 03:19 AM
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May and the powerful coming of spring is for me the best time of year (live in Oslo). You might catch the quite spectacular celebrations on the 17th of May, Norway's constitution day. Hordes of celebrating people and parading children in every town and village across the country.
http://www.visitnorway.com/en/Articl...-national-day/

Perhaps take the ferry to charming and waterfront Lille Herbern for lunch?
http://www.sult.no/englishinformation.cfm

In Oslo, go to Bygdøy for woods and beaches, Holmenkollen for the ski jump, forest and magnificent views. Both are very popular hiking areas. Or visit the popular and large Vigeland park for sculptures and outdoor cafés close to the city center. http://www.vigeland.museum.no/en/vigeland-park

Gentrified Grünerløkka has got coffee bars on every corner, great shopping and some of the best bars and restaurants in town. Also nice city parks in this area. Lots of life, upscale shopping, cafés and restaurants in Hegedehaugsveien/Bogstadveien just north of the Royal castle towards the Majorstuen area.

And you might want to take a look at our new Opera house. People tend to gather on the roof on sunny days. Won the culture award at the World Architecture Festival in Barcelona in October 2008 and the 2009 European Union Prize for Contemporary Architecture. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Fu...a_by_night.jpg

Lots of great restaurants in town, but if you want to have traditional Norwegian food, you can try some of these places:
Frognerseteren café and restaurant, with tram from the city center in 20 mins:
http://www.frognerseteren.no/comweb.asp?segment=1&ID=25

Go native at traditional and recently renovated Theatercafeen. As Oslo as it gets: http://www.hotelcontinental.no/Theat...en.aspx?ID=236

Great value three-course meal at Olympen:
http://www.olympen.no/olympen

Lorry, just behind the Royal castle, is very popular:
http://www.lorry.no/

Fabulous fish at traditional and low key Lofotstua:
http://www.lofotstua.no/

The best fish and seafood at expensive Solsiden: http://www.solsiden.no/

Newly opened Fiskeriet at Youngstorget is extremely popular with locals for fish and seafood. Fish market, take-away or eat in: http://fiskeriet.com/
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Old Apr 16th, 2011, 05:43 AM
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Nice photo presentation of Oslo: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9aL8...eature=related

I can recommend the hike from Frognerseteren (metro/tram from the city center in 20 mins), via Ullevålseter to Sognsvann (tram back to the city center in 20 mins). A couple of hours walk, included a stop at the Cafeteria at Ullevålseter.

Sognsvann, close to the tram: http://www.google.no/search?q=Sognsv...w=1379&bih=805
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Old Apr 16th, 2011, 06:25 AM
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... and you might want to visit small and idyllic Drøbak on the coast just south of Oslo. One hour by bus from the city center. In can highly recommend Skipperstuen with a great outdoor terrace right in the small harbour. You can also buy the freshest shrimps directly from the boat in the harbour: http://www.visitdrobak.no/visitdroba...drobak.no.html
http://www.skipperstuen.no/uteservering

The large terrace at Signalen Bar & Restaurant at Nesoddtangen can boast a fantastic location and the most wonderful sunest in all of the Oslo area. Right on the waterfront, and not nearly as crowded, hectic and touristy as Aker Brygge. Out here it's a local atmosphere and frequent jazz/blues concerts. 20 mins by ferry from Aker Brygge to Nesoddtangen, leaves every hour until midnight. Signalen is 50 meters from the ferry. Great and informal place to spend a Oslo spring evening/night: http://www.signalen-tangenbrygga.no/
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Old Apr 16th, 2011, 07:26 AM
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I've been out of town and just had a moment to check in here.

Many thanks for all the help and advice everyone!! I really appreciate it.

I'm going to spend time this weekend working on this.

gruezi
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Old Apr 17th, 2011, 03:07 PM
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Dear kimhe,

Just wanted to say thanks for all the ideas and the links to go with them.

I will print out your posts and bring them with me to Oslo.

Thanks again!

gruezi
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Old Apr 17th, 2011, 05:12 PM
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Gruezi and Kimhe,

I am going to be in Oslo on the 6 and 7 of June. Maybe we could have a little GTG if you will be there then. I'd be up for visiting some of the places recommended by kimhe.

ahotpoet
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Old Apr 17th, 2011, 07:30 PM
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ahotpoet - I will likely be back home by then but thanks for the offer of a GTG. Have a wonderful time and report back - we need more information on Norway here.
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Old Apr 17th, 2011, 10:54 PM
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I'll be out of town in all June, but I wish you some great Oslo days!
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Old Apr 18th, 2011, 09:19 AM
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Gruezi,
Have a wonderful time on your trip. Sorry we will miss each other.

Kimhe,
Thanks for your good wishes. I hope your travels will take you good places.
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Old Apr 20th, 2011, 04:16 PM
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Well, I finally put together my itinerary. It took a long time to put everything together that I wanted to do (some things will have to wait for next trip!) and at a price that seemed reasonable for a solo trip.

Also, the hotels everywhere seemed to be really filling up and that was a bit stressful. Every time someone had suggested a hotel, I'd go to book the room and there were none available for my dates - same with the ferry...If anyone has an opinion on the 3 hotels I've reserved let me know. I'm leaning toward Doubletree if my husband can get me a discount there...the more lower priced hotels I was interested in were all filled.

I did end up calling Hurtigruten directly and a very helpful young woman helped me arrange a Port to Port itinerary so that I could visit Geiranger fjord without having to take the 7 day southbound trip which as a solo traveler was just too pricey with the solo charge.

Here is my plan:

Wed - Fly overnight NY to Oslo

Thurs - spend day in Oslo - depending on weather lowkey day to see sculpture park or head to Edvard Munch - sleep at Radisson Blu Plaza

Friday - Oslo to Bergen (fly or train - not sure yet)

Friday night - Monday - Bergen at Hotel Clarion Admiral

Monday evening - board Hurtigruten in Bergen

Tuesday - Hurtigruten ink. Geiranger Panarama

Wednesday - Arrive with Hurtigruten in Trondheim and spend night at Rica Nidelven

Thursday - Hurtigruten from Trondheim arrive late afternoon Friday in Bergen

Friday night - stay at Grand Hotel Terminus in Bergen

Saturday early am - Board train to begin Norway in a Nutshell trip toward Oslo

Saturday evening - Overnight at Stalheim Hotel

Sunday night - arrive Oslo; not sure about Hotel - have reservations at Hilton Doubletree, Clarion Christiana and Best Western West (I think the last 3 rooms in all of Oslo

Monday - Tuesday - Museums/Parks etc. in Oslo; perhaps a hike outside the center city

Wednesday late am - Fly back to NY

Thanks to everyone who gave me advice here. Much appreciated!!

Thanks to Kimhe for the specific links to hikes and restaurants in Oslo - will print these to bring along.

Thanks to ssteve and Mr_Go for great trip reports here on Fodor's. You really helped me a lot!!!

I will try to be good and write a brief trip report on my return. We could use a bit more material on here for Norway...

(Unfortunately, not enough time and money to get to wonderful, wonderful Copenhagen so that must wait for another trip.)

gruezi
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Old Apr 26th, 2011, 03:06 PM
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Hi gruezi,

Well, here are my armchair comments, for whatever they're worth.

I'm choosing a different approach to visiting Norway. I would like to concentrate on visiting fjords - and maybe a little bit of time exploring a glacier or two.

Norway in a Nutshell sounded like too much running around for me - but then I'm such a slow traveler - and Hurtigruten is above my budget and it's mostly along the coast (which is beautiful but doesn't spend much time in fjords). I also think that I won't be traveling solo on this trip, so it makes renting a car more affordable.

So my hope is to rent a car and concentrate my time on one or two fjords. I'd rent a cabin for a few days and explore the area via car, hiking, and boat. I'm not that interested in Oslo - I'm sure it's nice but I'll have limited time and money so plan on flying into Bergen. I'm tending towards visiting Sognefjord and then going kayaking and glacier hiking in Jostedalsbreen. But I'm also considering Nordfjord, Hardangerfjord and/or Lysefjord. Heck, if I continue doing research, I'd probably end up liking the idea of going to other fjords, too.

Your itinerary sounds good and it's a good time of year to visit, according to my research. But why don't you fly open jaw - Oslo at one end and Bergen at the other. There are international flights to Bergen.

Here's a couple resources that I've found useful:

driving itineraries: http://www.turistveg.no/en

general intro to Norway with sections on fjords and on hiking:
http://www.visitnorway.com/en

if you're into waterfalls: http://www.world-of-waterfalls.com/t...aterfalls.html

fjords: http://www.fjordnorway.com/en//

Bergen: http://www.fjordnorway.com/en//

I'm assuming that you already have links for Hurtigruten and Norway in a Nutshell.

Hope you have a great trip.
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Old Apr 26th, 2011, 11:06 PM
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Hi Shanti,

Thanks for your note. I also found Hurtigruten too expensive and so ended up doing a port-to-port trip through them rather than their traditional northbound or southbound trip. My trip includes a visit to Geiranger fjord which I did not want to give up. I am able to see a bit of the coast without spending thousands of dollars. I very much enjoy boats and trains so the Norway in a Nutshell worked for me as I don't love driving that much - especially when I'm alone and wanted to see scenery rather than worry about directions, etc. I will break up my train trip with a stay in Stalheim where I hope to do some hiking.

An open jaw was a possibility, but I got a good price on a flight in and out of Oslo (upgrade to Business Class which was nice as I am not a good flyer) and I do want to visit a few museums there so it worked fine. I may have a tiny bit too much time there - not sure really - but I hear there are many lovely day trips nearby if that is the case. My husband did not care for Oslo and kept saying don't even visit, but he doesn't really do the same kind of travel as I like to do... but perhaps he is right. I'll report back on my impressions.

I will say this was a trickier trip to plan as there was so much to see (in my opinion) and I had trouble narrowing things down and also making the trip seem doable alone, with luggage, and with a lot of stops I wanted to make. I do hope I have made good decisions in the short time I had to plan things - I leave in less than 2 weeks.

Thanks for all the links... I especially think it is good to build the Norway information here on Fodor's. There were a few great trip reports but not much beyond that.

Hope you are off the armchair and on the plane before long!

gruezi
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Old Apr 27th, 2011, 12:34 AM
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If the Hurtigruten grabs you and you want to do the full trip solo, then go in the winter season when there is no single supplement. That's what I did, and loved it. I also only booked half board to further save some money and didn't miss lunch one bit, the breakfast and dinner were so good.
I'm hoping to go again, with or without DH, next winter or the one after.

Your trip sounds wonderful - I hope you get good weather and enjoy yourself. You are braver than me doing all that. I stuck to the Hurtigruten trip as my solo effort.
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