Northwestern Switzerland Fall 2014

Old Feb 18th, 2015, 10:02 AM
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Northwestern Switzerland Fall 2014

Nothing like the boredom of recuperation from orthopedic surgery to jumpstart a long-delayed Trip Report!
I was lucky to visit Switzerland for 10 nights last September, staying for a week in Solothurn (FeWo), then 3 nights in Luzern.

Uneventful, though cramped, flight via Toronto into Zurich. Foggy upon landing, but sunny in 'my' beautiful baroque town of Solothurn.

Why this town? I had visited Solothurn the year prior as a daytrip from Bern, and fell in love with the multitude of preserved baroque buildings, the quaint cobblestoned lanes, the St. Urs Cathedral, the numerous hidden squares and restored fountains.
It was just the right size (pop about 12,000), with good rail connections, along a picturesque river, and had a nice selection of cafes and dining options.

I had consulted the town's website and found a vacation apartment with photos, corresponded with the owner (auf Deutsch for months, before learning she was a transplanted Briton!). I love the space, hominess and price of self-catering apartments!
Traveling solo, this was about my 15th trip. I have a (largely unused) degree in German, which comes in handy, though I'm not particularly fluent, and eavesdropping on Schweizerdeutsch is hopeless!
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Old Feb 18th, 2015, 10:41 AM
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Ok, so after the requisite airport tasks (ATM, breakfast, postcard stamps---yes, I still love to send them!-- a phone card (mom is NOT a tekkie) and Half Fare card purchase), I arrive in Solothurn 75 minutes later.
Got oriented and headed to the Altstadt, crossing the Aare River via the pedestrian Kreuzacker bridge...beautiful cityscape with St.Ursenkathedral predominating. Sunny, coolish day..maybe 60 degrees?

My apartment was in the museum square just below the Cathedral. On the ground floor was a hair salon, I was one floor up. A wall of windows lined the entire front overlooking a somewhat plain fountain and several parking slots.

My landlady, Penny, is from England. She lived a year in Paris, studying painting, where she met her swiss husband. They moved to Switzerland almost 40 years ago to raise their family.
We went over apartment details..Penny seemed especially happy to be speaking English! After a quick unpacking and a brief nap, I got up to explore the Messe (sort of home-and-garden-themed fair) on the edge of town.
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Old Feb 18th, 2015, 04:02 PM
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Wonderful weather. The Messe had a large number of indoor and outdoor booths, food stands, a petting zoo and kiddie rides,in addition to the sponsoring home-&-garden businesses. Just HAD to get a chocolate and banana crepe as I strolled along (7 CHF)!
Picked up a mini-quiche at the enticing Baseltor bakery for dinner tonight (3.80).

Went back to my oh-so-convenient apartment to deposit the food and sweater.
Back out to find one of the town Coop grocery stores.
Stopped at the Jesuitenkirche to light a candle. Meandered along the cobblestone lanes, past the 12th century Zeitglockenturm (clock tower), revisiting some sites from last year, discovering new corners and window-shopping.

Found the Coop Rossmarkt and picked up provisions, including a toothbrush (to replace the one that fell in the airplane toilet!)

Heavy groceries! Found a phone booth (one of two seen in the city) and called home.
Back "home" to relax in my comfy leather recliner, watching "Beiz und Beiz" about re-doing small unknown country diners, then "The Big Bang Theory" auf Deutsch.
To bed by 9 pm...the apt has a Nespresso machine...yea!
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Old Feb 19th, 2015, 04:29 AM
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on for the ride, often get to Lichtenstein so good to hear about this.
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Old Feb 19th, 2015, 05:59 AM
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Thanks, Mokka, looking forward to finding out more about your trip!
Solothurn is such a great small city. I forgot, where you there during the Art Supermarket?
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Old Feb 19th, 2015, 07:30 AM
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WT: no not during that Art event...
Sunny start to the next morning as well. SOOO hard to get up the first several days with jet lag!
My great big picture windows make me feel on display to the square!

Today's target: Neuchâtel, just 35 minutes away (21.80 CHF roundtrip with HFC).

Train station sits above the butter yellow buildings of town. I walked along Ave de la Gare, slowly getting my bearings.
The produce market in Place des Halles was just wrapping up. I decided to have lunch on the square before climbing up to the chateau.
Unremarkable salad/Brot with Panache (14CHF).

This being a Tuesday, the streets and shops were teeming with people. I worked my way uphill to the chateau, snapping pics. There were free tours on the hour, but I opted to just explore the expansive grounds for the views, then rested on a sun-dappled bench for a bit. Terrific gargoyles and faces carved into corners above.
I explored the Collegial church...pretty blue ceiling with stars and the colorful figures of the Monument of the Counts was impressive.

Heading back toward the city, I looked for the two notable fountains: Justice and du Banneret, but never did find them. But, there were two tall structures covered with wood...maybe these were the fountains, covered for fall already?

I sat for a while on a bench on the lakeshore...sign said 22 C = 72 F! Many residents out enjoying the fine weather and ice cream.
Eventually started the steep and sweat-producing trek back up to the Bahnhof. Easy trip to Solothurn.

Freshened up at my central apartment, went out for an evening stroll, in search of dinner. Gasthof zu Wirthen advertised Flammkuchen...mmmmm! Had a klein pizza with local cheese/ham and a local beer "Oufi", hoppy, but good
then a dark beer (30 CHF).

Did I mention this town likes the number eleven? Eleven chuches and chapels, 11 fountains and towers, and the beer 'Oufi' is Swiss for 11!

Back home, I watched "Bauer, ledig, sucht"-on for the fourth year! The show follows a farmer seeking a love match on his arranged dates (think: rural Bachelor). Then, "Mom, I'm pregnant!" Wow, does that happen over here too?
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Old Feb 20th, 2015, 09:22 AM
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The next morning I was able to get up a little easier. Rain was forecast for later in the day, and my landlady had suggested a walk to the local hermitage "Einsiedelei".
This holy site had been in existence since the 17th century, and consisted of the Varenakapelle and St. Martinskapelle, in addition to a ?caretaker's cottage, reportedly still lived in by a modern-day hermit.

So, after stopping in the TI for a proper map, I headed past the Messe/fair and beyond the bordering neighborhood to a beautiful walk through the Verena Gorge, along the forested Meditationsweg. There was a babbling brook all along the wide pathway, making the trek in the heavily dappled sunshine really special! As the trail meandered on, small wooden pedestrian bridges, and a heavily moss-and lichen-covered stone bridge crossed the tiered stream. No one else was on the path for a good 20 minutes...really peaceful.
Finally, I approached St. Varena's chapel on the left, up several steps. Built INTO the rock cave, with an altar, reposed Jesus, ceiling artwork and figures. Further back into the cave were statues of guards on the right, and the women of Israel on the left. A moment of quiet spirituality...
And then other visitors arrived, and the spell was broken.

Down the steps and across the paved pathway was St. Martins chapel. The entrance was gated, but one could peek inside at the highly decorated interior. A sign noted that religious services were held within 1 or 2 times per month.
All of this quiet beauty just 30-40 minutes walk from Solothurn's centre! So glad that Penny suggested it!
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Old Feb 20th, 2015, 09:43 AM
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After returning to the apartment for lunch of Rheintaler Bauernwurst and Eistee, I headed out to Zofingen, 40 minutes (by train) away.
The Altstadt was an easy amble from the Bahnhof.

Small town of about 11,000-just my size! Quaint squares and preserved buildings around every corner, a not another tourist!
I found my way along Vordere HauptGasse to the lions gate with extravagant flowers and fountains at the far boundary of the old town.

I decided to have a mid-afternoon dessert break with the seasonal Vermicelli-sweetened chestnut paste extruded through small holes, so that it resembles pasta-and a hearty Kaffee (8.50) at a table in the sunshine.

Visited the town's church, and Niklaus-Thut square with beautiful fountain near the Rathaus. Such a shame that so many of these grand squares have now been converted to parking spaces!

I meandered for another couple hours, visiting the Pulverturm, where the arsenal had previously resided, the Markthalle, where produce markets take place 3x weekly, the old guardhouse and finally, Laederach chocolate store, where they didn't bat an eye at my 200 CHF bill (ATM dispensed).
I saw several old half-timbered buildings, including the in-process-of-being-restored St. Urbanhof.

I think this town may just be NEXT year's home base....!
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Old Feb 20th, 2015, 09:53 AM
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Moderate rain upon changing in Olten. Home by 6 pm and decided on takeout from my very local DonerKabob...just 3 doors away on an intersecting street.

I settled in my very private and picturesque courtyard (off the back of the apartment) with my delish vegetarian pizza and a cold wheat beer. Caught up on a little texting. Also, very difficult to find postcards nowadays--- did I buy 7 expensive (1.90 each)stamps for nothing?

Began planning for tomorrow--Gruyeres!
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Old Feb 20th, 2015, 10:34 PM
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Lovely to discover a town I had never heard of, and it looks gorgeous. I like smallish towns too. What a nice holiday. Looking forward to reading more...

My family (teens included) declared Mittenwald, Germany, (population 7000) their favourite destination of last years' holiday. And I thought they might get bored..
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Old Feb 21st, 2015, 03:09 AM
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It is a very attractive town and one that many tourists don't know about or skip because it's not in the Alps. It has a pretty Christmas market as well plus an annual art fair where people can buy original art at relatively low prices (some of it is great stuff by talented, budding artists and some of it is dreck, but the selection is wide). Has several nice cafes and good restaurants.

I do have to add that it seems to rain there more than in many other Swiss towns that I've been to. I don't know whether I've just been unlucky on my visits or whether it's in a Swiss rain pocket.
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Old Feb 21st, 2015, 07:11 AM
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WT: My landlady DID tell me that thick fog was common in Solothurn, though a bit of morning fog was encountered only one day during my trip...

Thursday, Sept 25--
My morning lethargy persists, so, in the interest of sleeping later, I gave up my oft-dreamed of Broc Fabrique Chocolate Tour at Villars! Now for an avowed CHOCOHOLIC, this was no easy decision! I have been anticipating the tasting room (with NO limits!) for months! But today's trip to Gruyeres would take 2hrs10minutes one-way...and there was just too much to experience in Gruyeres.

I had the train station make up a Fahrplan, and was surprised to learn that a bus was involved. Left 9:49, change Bern, arrive Fribourg 10:55, cross lot for bus to Bulle (48 minute ride), then train to Gruyeres arriving 11:59.

A sunny day again! Interesting to see the Landschaft from a bus' perspective. There was a huge mega-mall complex called "Shoppyland" in Schoenbuehl..��yuk...then I saw my first TWO McDrives--yes, McDonald drive-throughs--on the outskirts of Fribourg and Bern. And on the way home, a strip mall with stores still open at 19:30...this is progress?
(On the positive side, gas is still holding at ~$7.50/gallon).

At Gruyeres, the station was tiny with a big modern cheese-making demo/restaurant right across the way.
While the other passengers waited for the uphill bus to the Ville, I headed for the 'Pedestrian path.'
Though gentle at first, the gravel path steepened to almost 45 degrees (no lie)!
Jacket off..great cardio!
Moleson mountain loomed in the distance-I'd like to come back someday to get up there too...I was bypassed by a young couple, and there was wine alte Frau far ahead, otherwise, no one else for the 15 minute climb.

I entered Gruyeres Ville from a side portal with unique views to the surrounding countryside.
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Old Feb 21st, 2015, 07:43 AM
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Of course, the iconic fountain with oft-photographed town center was first. Then lunch called at La Maison des Traditions on the back deck, under an umbrella (intense sun). Roesti fromage und eine Flasche Mineralwasser (25 Chf). So yummy, but heavy, so no room for meringue (yet).

I wandered about taking in every wonderful view and picturesque, flower-bedecked corner and rustic alleyway. So clean..everywhere.

Bought a combi-ticket (17chf) for the Giger museum and Chateau. Ok, Giger was one sick puppy--how did all that weirdness reside in one brain?
No photos inside-leave backpack in locker. Even the attendant at the ticket counter was alternative/goth!
The "Train of Extinction" left an enduring impression. Such dark and aberrant thinking!

After the museum, I continued uphill to the Chateau. Waited 10 minutes then watched a short video presentation (select English headphones). The tour was self-guided, with rooms numbered and an English description pamphlet. Photos permitted. Crane symbol repeated throughout. Lovely manicured gardens with covered wall walkways surrounding.

Back 'down' in the village, I decided to experience Meringue with double cream and a Kaffee (13 CHF). Mmmmm!
Walked back down to the Bahnhof by another, less steep, route and made good time. Too early for my train, so I visited the touristy shop across the street. Bought a bag if mini Villars bars for work and a water for me.
This is where things went wrong!
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Old Feb 21st, 2015, 08:18 AM
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Cliffhanger time!
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Old Feb 22nd, 2015, 07:44 AM
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So, at the Gruyeres gare, two trains were due, one minute apart, one in each direction (see where this is going?)
MINE to Bulle, was to be first. Well, a train did pull in, and although it seemed to be facing the wrong direction,it was the right time, and I figured it was a tooterville trolley and would reverse direction.

By the time I saw a throng of panicky, similar-minded passengers jump off the train, we were rolling in the wrong direction! Aaargh!
I had no schedule for the multiple connections home! A teen sitting across from me used her smartphone to translate that I could get off at the next stop, but would have to wait for the next hourly train to head back to Gruyeres .

This is how I became acquainted with 'Enney'--an unmanned, stop-on-demand, tiny cluster of buildings at the edge of an endless field! The two other disembarking passengers disappeared into the dusk...
So, its rapidly darkening and getting cold, and I'm trying to remain confident about getting to Solothurn sometime tonight. TG I had brought a jacket and scarf in my backpack--used for the first time on this trip!

After a small Swiss eternity (or 55 minutes where I berated myself), the first of many many connections arrived. Sigh of relief! Although the bus driver from Bulle to Fribourg was a racing maniac on the swervy highways in the dark...yes, I know Postbus drivers are highly vetted, but still...
There were more roundabouts (14+) than you can shake your fist at!
I was enormously happy to reach my hometown by 10 pm...
lovely nighttime photos along the river!
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Old Feb 23rd, 2015, 07:43 AM
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Friday's goal was the (previously walled) city of Romont, atop a hill and promoting a history of stained glass.
I had plenty of time to buy my train ticket from the self-serve kiosk (34 CHF with HFC).

A steep, long street stretches uphill through a residential neighborhood to get to town (follow the obvious castle ramparts above)! TG there are benches strategically placed on the way up. Warm and sunny again.
There was a sheep grazing in someone's hilly backyard...
Bought an almond croissant 'for breakfast tomorrow' ;-) .

I knew that the stained glass museum (in the castle) closed for lunch at 1 pm, so I decided to wander the ramparts after I located the Vitromusee 's location.
Most of the ramparts are no longer covered or enclosed, but a paved (or gravel) path faithfully follows its position, and the views of the surrounding fields were great. Saw the Boyer tower at extreme end of town and the Wildman's tower (Tour du Savage), before settling on a bench at a scenic overlook for my picnic lunch of apple and aforementioned croissant .

I visited the Notre Dame de l'Assumption Collegiate Church with its mix of old and new stained glass windows, several dating back to the 13th, 14th and 15th centuries. How did these fragile works of art survive?

I returned to the castle courtyard (beautiful grounds)just before 2 pm. There was a party of fancily dressed people assembling...we all waited for the desk clerk to return from lunch..at 2:05!
After this excited group entered, I learned that it was a wedding party who had rented private space on a lower level!

Nice exhibits over two floors + of VERY old to newer stained glass and reverse-paintings with thorough explanations in an English brochure. Not much contemporary art though. The vines framing the courtyard were a brilliant fall-red, so pretty! And the window boxes along the dark wood ramparts here were overflowing with crimson geraniums...a feast for the eyes.
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Old Feb 23rd, 2015, 08:17 AM
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Did you see the cat??
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Old Feb 23rd, 2015, 09:26 AM
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No cat. Had read about that on previous threads...where would I have seen it?
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Old Feb 23rd, 2015, 10:20 AM
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Wonderful report! I'm heading to Switzerland in a few weeks, and will be based in Luzern for one week. We will have a car, so no train rides. I want to make it to Gruyeres and Interlaken before our "free" time gives way to business time in Luzern.
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Old Feb 23rd, 2015, 10:37 AM
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Simpson:
I ended this trip with a 3-day stay in Luzern...still to come. Though I had daytripped
to Luzern multiple times before, I had never overnighted until last October. Overrun with tourists, esp Asian, but still very "worth" it!
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