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Northern Lights / Dog Sledding

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We have a maximum of 4 days (Fri to Mon) to fly from UK to somewhere in Norway (or perhaps Sweden/Lapland) and would like to do the following during Nov to Dec 2011.

1. See the Northern Lights (we do understand this isn't guaranteed)
2. Take a dog sledding trip just for the day or half day through a scenic white winterland.
3. If time, see some reindeer.

Could anyone out there suggest places to look at? We have heard about Tromso but I wonder if this place is too touristy for us - we like small and unspolit. And chaming cosy places to drink/eat for the the evenings.

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