sformby

Hello. My husband and I spent 2 weeks in Ireland in March, we "did" a loop from Dublin to Galway. Now I'm ready to head back in October!

I'm wondering what this esteemed board would recommend as good "home bases" in the northern half o' the isle. Towns we were considering include Westport, Sligo, Donegal, Portrush, Belfast, Drogheda, go home from Dublin. I like 2 or 3 nights in all but the sleepiest of places, but may do 1 night in Belfast. I think we need to limit our time in the 6 counties, because of the crushing exchange rate right now.

I like the Rick Steve's books, and he doesn't seem to recommend lingering in the northwest quandrant, just goes straight from Westport to Portrush. Any thoughts from fellow travelers? Excellent B&Bs or small hotels that will "make" our trip?

As an aside, stayed at Heaton's Guesthouse in Dingle and The Lodge at Kenmare in March, and was blown away by the charm and hospitality.

LilyLace

Sounds nice! I have a customer just outside of Belfast and I've been to visit a few times. Unfortunately there never seems time to do much else! This past March we had an extra day and drove up the east coast to Giant's Causeway. It was lovely and I can't wait to go back when there is more time to explore. We had a wonderful, warm & cozy meal at the Giant's Causeway Hotel and I plan to stay there a night or two when I go back. A glimpse of one of the rooms was enough to welcome me! All very quaint on the way up by the way, some little villages that I'm sure would be fun to explore and the cliffs! By the way Belfast is also very nice to visit - nothing like the picture we 40 something Americans picture from those awful news reports of our childhood!

3gigs

Have you considered Londonderry? It's surrounded by medieval walls, has many historic sites, and is convenient to the Antrim Coast (a very worthwhile drive), the Giant's Causeway, Donegal and Sligo, and is a few hours' drive from Westport. We stayed at the Beech Hill Country House Hotel outside of Londonderry and were warmly welcomed by the manager, Patsy. The Beech Hill housed American soldiers during WWII and is full of mementos from that time. Despite Rick Steves' reservations, the North is worth a visit and Americans have no reason to fear violence. As Patsy told us, the "troubles" are an old man's conflict and the younger generation in the North wants to move on.

spootiskerry

Well, if you haven't been to Newgrange, you MUST go! It is an amazing place...older than the pyramids. We stayed in a hostel nearby, which was great, as we met a nice family from The Netherlands whom we met up with at the Blarney Castle a couple weeks later by accident! Very magical.

Also, I LOVE Westport. Irish session music every night and a good base to take trips of Connemara. You know, Cong, where Quiet Man was filmed. I did that tour and really enjoyed it. Stayed at Westwood House with hosts Maire and Declan. Lovely place and folks. Highly recommend.

Danna

We visited the Antrim coast in October 2000, it was wonderful. If you get a chance, the Glenariff Forest Park has a magical waterfall walk. We stayed at The Meadows B&B in Cushendall on the coast road. They had won a national award that year. Have a great time!

Ann41

You'll be hitting my favorite parts of Ireland. Co. Donegal is incredibly beautiful. Donegal Town is okay as a base. Not particularly scenic, but it is fairly convenient to the rest of the area.

Near the Bushmill's Distillery is the Bushmill's Inn. I haven't stayed there, but many friends have, and I've only heard good things about it. The restaurant at the Inn also gets great reviews. It's not horribly far from Portrush. They have a website and you'll probably get a good deal in October. I'm not too familiar with Portrush, but you'll have an easy time finding accommodation there in October.

One night is probably fine for Belfast. It's not a huge city. Definitely do the black taxi tour. You used to (and might still) get the taxis behind Castlecourt shopping mall, but I've found it easier to arrange for guests by getting brochures from the visitors' centre (right next to Boots in the city centre) and calling up one of the companies listed.

Belfast's City Hall is worth a visit. Tours go regularly. Just check at the visitors' centre (which is excellent, btw).

Derry is interesting to visit, although somewhat depressing. Definitely the most "Irish" city in Northern Ireland. Go to the tourist centre (it's on the river--anyone can direct you) and arrange to do a walking tour of the city walls.

All I know of Drogheda is driving through it on my way to Dublin. There's a nice hotel outside Dundalk (just over the border into the south)--the Ballymascanlon (I'm sure I've butchured the spelling). You wouldn't be too far from Newgrange.

Other small towns worth a visit in the North: Hillsborough, Portaferry (take a ferry from Strangford), and Killyleagh. These are all in County Down--I'm sure other people would have other suggestions.

Glad you're heading up our way. Even with the weak dollar, it's really not any more expensive in the north than in the south. Until recently, I was paid by my company in US$, and going down south used to kill me. Prices have really climbed in the Republic over the past 7 years or so.

sformby

Thanks for the responses. Any more welcome! It's hard to know how long to stay in each area of the north. And most tourbooks don't seem to give as much ink to the northern half of the isle as the touristed south.

Ann41

The guidebooks don't dwell on the north because they don't think people want to come here. Which is ridiculous, but does keep the north less unspoiled than the south.

I would spend 3 nights in Donegal/Inishowen Peninsula area, 2 nights at the Bushmill's Inn, 1 or 2 nights in Belfast, and then maybe one night somewhere on the way back to Dublin.

Meant to mention, in Belfast, the Europa Hotel and Jury's are in the city centre and close to everything. I've stayed at the Europa and thought it was overpriced, but you can sometimes get some good deals. I think Jury's is your standard Jury's.

Angela

I wish to second Bushmills Inn in Bushmills. It is abslutely beautiful. I eat there regularly, the food is wonderful, as are the staff, and the rooms are quaint and charming. It's a good base to explore Dunluce Castle, Giants Causeway, and the towns of Portrush, Portstewart and Coleraine. I can give you a wealth of information on these places, if you are interested.

http://www.bushmillsinn.com/Files/Bushmills.htm

Westport is also a great town, I have spent many weekends here. I stay in the Knockranny Hotel which is absolutely wonderful - http://www.khh.ie/

I have stayed in most hotels in this town, and give you many more recommendations if you like. Knockranny remains my favourite though!

Let me know if you need any more help.

Angela

sformby

Great ideas, thanks. I think Knockranny House and Bushmills may be a bit too pricy for my budget. I'm looking more for a nice b & b or small hotel. Trying to stay under $125 a night. But I may splurge on one or the other...they look nice!

If anyone has any other property suggestions for Westport, Donegal, and Londonderry, they would be welcome.

Angela

If you were to choose to splurge on Knockranny or Bushmills, I would definitely say Bushmills!! There are many other nice hotels in Westport:

The Wyatt Hotel: very friendly staff and right in the centre of town. I have stayed here and can highly recommend it. http://www.wyatthotel.com/home.html

The Westport Inn: I have never stayed here, but have called in. It's next on my list of places to stay. Again very central. http://www.westportinn.ie/

Atlantic Coast Hotel - not situated in the main town, but in The Quays, about 1 mile away. The Quays is a separate part of Westport, a smaller, quieter version, right on the water. This hotel has its own pool and a fabulous restaurant. I have stayed here many times. It's a bigger, less personal hotel than the above, but very good.
http://www.atlanticcoasthotel.com/

Olde Railway Hotel: beautiful hotel in centre of town. Have stayed here and it is lovely. Very 'olde worlde', with beautiful quiet reading rooms, etc.
http://www.anu.ie/railwayhotel/

These, to me, are the nicest hotels in Westport. I'm sorry, but I can't personally recoemmend any B&B's in the area as I have never stayed in them.

Angela

jheim

Hi,

My wife and I love the North. Our favorite area is Fermenaugh. It is scenic, is a super location for exploring the area, and has a ton of stuff to keep you busy.

We did not find many travelers from the U.S., but met of ton of folks from Europe. It is a non-touristy area with lots of local flavor.

If you are in to self-catering, I would highly recommend Belle Isle as a base.

As an alternative to Westport or Donegal - Fermenaugh can not be beat.

Have a super trip.

Angela

I assume jheim means 'Fermanagh'.

Angela

Ardfert

I enjoyed visiting the highest sea cliffs in Europe at Slieve League,a few miles from Kilcar in south Donegal.Do not park at the first car park if you are brave-drive to the one near the top of the cliffs instead but take care.Incidentally I read in to-day`s Irish Times (full edition,on subscription only at www.ireland.com)about staying in hostels in Ireland which are apparently popular with tourists as well as being cheap-about 10-25 Euros per night.One comment from the owner of Dooey Hostel (www.dooeyhostel.com -Euros 10-12 per night)which is not far from the Cliffs at Glencolumbcille is "Sometimes we have so many doctors and nurses from England,Italy anfd Germany that we could open a hospital".Details on other hostels at
www.hostels-ireland.com

sformby

Great ideas. One hundred thanks to all.

My husband is really looking forward to Belfast. Has anyone done any of the black cab tours or other tours that they would recommend?

I'll check out Fermanagh, as well as all the Westport hotels, thanks Angela. It is great to get ideas on other places for a "home base" besides the ones listed in the main travel books. I'm just hoping it isn't _too_ cold and wet by August. But you roll the dice in the "shoulder season."

ealing_calling

I've been lucky to have good weather the times I've been along the Antrim coast. Pack a picnic, it's a beautiful coastline!

BTW you may have heard about full English breakfasts. Well, they're nothing compared to an Irish fry. Scrummy sausages, potato cakes, soda farls or bread . . . beans & egg . . . could do with 1 right now! Go for that if your lodging offers it for breakfast.
Have a great trip

IrishEyes

Keep in mind that Fermanagh is a county and covers a large section of Ireland. Enniskillen is a nice town to stay in Fermanagh.

allisonm

We stayed at Abocourragh Farmhouse in Enniskillen, very lovely area. We were missing our yellow lab who had recently died, and got a wonderful fix with their lab, Jack. The home was gorgeous and we enjoyed walking around the town the next morning. Highly recommended!

Ann41

I did the black taxi tour last night when my mother came to visit. It was very good, except I should have never told the guy that I lived there. He spent half of the time saying to me "As you know..." I forget which company we used, but I just picked it out of the tourist guide. And I was able to rearrange the time without a problem.

Bushmills Inn has a 2-night deal in October. 88 GBP per person for the two nights (that's for both nights, not per night), and that includes one dinner (and breakfast both mornings). I've decided to book a weekend in October myself! Check on the website under Winter Breaks:

http://www.bushmillsinn.com/Files/tarrif.asp?ID=6

Angela

Goodnees, thats a really good deal Anne. I have a holiday house in Portstewart, and even I'm tempted to book that for a wee treat!!!

Enjoy!

Angela

Ps, if you want any tips on where to eat on your second night, let me know.