non-touristy in Umbria or Tuscany?

Old Apr 24th, 2014, 08:26 AM
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non-touristy in Umbria or Tuscany?

Hi! So my fiance and I have the first 1/2 of our honeymoon planned and need some assistance with part 2. June19-July11 is our frame

Let me preface this with: I know we are moving around a lot, but my fiance has never been to Italy and he wants to see a few areas so we can decide where we want to spend a whole 2 weeks next time.

We are spending the first 9 days in Puglia with a rental car and then heading over to the Cilento coast and staying 3 nights somewhere there before we return our car in Salerno (anyone like Salerno in July or super crowded/touristy?). After we return the car we will take a train to Rome and spend 4 nights. After that, we have about 6 days before we have to be in Milan for our flight home (used miles so no choice on airport). Initially we were going to spend those days in Florence, but now I am feeling stressed about being in another huge, crowded city after Rome and I like the idea of chilling in a small Tuscan or Umbrian village and doing perhaps a day trip to Florence or passing through Florence for one night on our way to Milan (fiance really wants to go to Florence). I found a cute little town, Bettona, but you need a car, and that seems the case for every small village. So, does anyone have a suggestion for a small quaint non-touristy village reachable by public transit? Or should we stay in perhaps Perugia or Bologna or Parma which would not be small but an easy train to/from Florence? We could potentially rent another car in Umbria for 4-5 days (if there is a town that we just have to visit) but that's another expense....the easiest thing would of course be to stay in Florence the whole time but I am not a Renaissance art fanatic (plus I've been to Florence) and really I just want to relax in a tiny village square, soak up the culture, and eat local delicious food and wine. I feel that it would also be easy to stay in a village near Florence, but I would be concerned those would be touristy.

Thanks in advance x a million!

LP
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Old Apr 24th, 2014, 09:25 AM
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The owner of Enoteca Piazza Onofri in Bevagna has a dozen or so apartments to rent in the town center. You would need a car. Within a half hour or so are Spello,a nice hilltop town, Montefalco, the home of Sagrantino, Perugia, the capitol of Umbria, Assisi, Norcia, of salumaria fame.

Just a suggestion.
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Old Apr 24th, 2014, 09:36 AM
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That time of year I would not spend that time in Florence. You did not mention the Ligurian coast, but I see that as an excellent alternative on your way to Milan.

If you do rural Umbria or Tuscany you will need a car. I know several good places to enjoy the best of Tuscany--holler if you decide to do that.
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Old Apr 24th, 2014, 10:12 AM
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"Fiance really wants to go to Florence" but you've already been...I assume your compromise is this small village but with a car, correct?
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Old Apr 24th, 2014, 11:50 AM
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For Tuscany without a car near Florence, check out Pistoia. Lucca and Settignano. You might even consider Bagno a Ripoli. San Miniato would mean a bit more complicated trip to the train station, but you might like it or be willing to spring for the occasional taxi ride. Also check out Montecatini Alto as a possibility.

A bit further from Florence but closer to beaches in both Tuscany and Liguria is Pietrasanta. It might be just what you are looking for.
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Old Apr 24th, 2014, 12:00 PM
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Florence is really overrun in summer. Bologna is kind of dead in summer - - almost too much so. If you don't want to rent a car, a nice compromise might be Lucca. Although there is an ant lane of tourists from the main bus park down a couple main streets (mostly daytrippers), 90% of pretty Lucca is relatively untrammeled. You can ride bikes through town and atop the city wall around the town (I stayed at a very nice 3* right at the train station and they had free bikes). It's a short train ride to Florence, or to Pisa, or to the beach at Viareggio. Cinque Terre is a couple hours. Here are some pictures from last July (arriving Bologna; train to Lucca; one night in packed Florence): https://www.flickr.com/photos/dougla...7634874102329/
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Old Apr 24th, 2014, 12:17 PM
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http://bagnidilucca.wordpress.com/20...4/pietrasanta/

http://www.localidautore.com/paesi/pietrasanta-435.aspx

http://www.aboutversilia.com/pietrasanta.html

http://www.tuscany-charming.it/en/pl...ietrasanta.asp

Another place to check out is Arezzo. You wouldn't need a car there.
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Old Apr 24th, 2014, 03:51 PM
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Wow guys thanks for all the great replies! So what I am gathering is if we stick to some of those towns near florence or even go to pietrasanta we could get along without a car but if we go into Umbria (spello, bevagna..) we would have to rent a car in, say, Perugia.
We will definitely look into all these spots and make our decision (perhaps by going onto airbnb.com and just seeing what apartments are out there)

All three suggestions sound spectacular: Florence to Ligurian coast on way to Milan, or Tuscan towns not too far from florence, or the several close together hill towns in Umbria. Decisions to make!
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Old Apr 24th, 2014, 05:16 PM
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Somewhere like Siena or Lucca would be good and you wouldn't need a car.

For the smaller towns in Umbria a car would be best if you want to see a lot of places. However, we spent five days in Spello last year and used only bus and train. We were able to visit Bevagna, Assisi, Spoleto, Foligno, Montefalco, Trevi all by bus and train but as bus services are not frequent, we only visited one or two places each day. For us that was plenty anyway. Check http://www.umbriamobilita.it/it for buses and www.trenitalia.com for regional trains (select tutti treni and a date not too far into the future).
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Old Apr 26th, 2014, 01:19 PM
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@ Bobthenavigator

I would love to get more info on great spots in tuscany. how do I PM you?
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Old Apr 26th, 2014, 05:22 PM
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@Dreamon: Thanks for the suggestion. Lucca and siena will be too touristy for what we want. (we want as little tourists as possible--I know WE are tourists but we have been learning Italian and really want to practice and get an authentic experience). I think for now we are looking at Spello, or perhaps Todi or Narni (did you go?) since those can be reached by public transport. If we decide to get a car then we can go to the really small villages like Bettona or San Gemini. That would be best, but we are trying to save $ by not renting the car, since we are doing that for 11 days in the south.
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Old Apr 26th, 2014, 05:57 PM
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Just Google my handle to find my web site.

In the meantime, here are some of my favorite places---the Val d' Orcia is my favorite part of Tuscany.


BOB’S FAVORITE DIGS IN TUSCANY
A. RURAL LOCATIONS: All have parking and good food options nearby

1. Relais La Saracina www.lasaracina.it 230 to 300E
Fabulous country home near Montepulciano—helpful owners

2. Cretaiole Agriturismo http://www.cretaiole.it/ Good value for families
Isabella also has 2 apts. in Castelmuzio for rent—wonderful—see her site.

3. Terre di Nano www.terredinano.com 100 to 155
Both rooms and apartments at rural Agriturismo near Monticchiello

4. Casanova di Pescille http://www.casanovadipescille.com/ 100E
Rural B&B 3 KM from famed San Gimignano—we loved the views of San Gim.

5. Fattoria Tregole www.fattoria-tregole.com 110E to 180E
Has both B&B and apartment accommodations. Near Castellina in Chianti

6. Agriturismo apts. near San Quirico— www.poggiolo.info/ About 110E

7. New historic B&B north of Pienza. http://www.camprena.it/index.htm
Site of filming for THE ENGLISH PATIENT About 90E for double

8. http://www.borgoargenina.it/index.html A special rural B&B in Chianti.
The lovely owner, Elena, will make you feel like family. 170E for double

B. IN-TOWN LOCATIONS: For walking convenience to shops & ristorantes.

1. Palazzo del Capitano www.palazzodelcapitano.com 170 to 210E
Very nice small hotel in center of San Quirico—perfect location to explore.

2. Vecchia Oliviera www.vecchiaoliviera.com/ 150 to 200E
Nice 4 star hotel at the gate into lovely Montalcino---has pool.

3. Palazzina Cesari www.montalcinoitaly.com 80 to 110E
Lovely small B&B in heart of Montalcino—great value—2 night stay minimum.

4. Locanda di San Francesco www.locandasanfrancesco.it 180 to 200E
New boutique B&B in a lovely location in Montepulciano—great reviews !

5. Politian apartments http://www.politian.com/ Good value apts. with
minimum stay of 3 nights in Montepulciano---helpful host---85E

6. Palazzo Ravizza www.palazzoravizza.it 170 to 250E
Very nice & popular hotel in Siena with parking.
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Old Apr 28th, 2014, 09:01 PM
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For Cilento - I love Pisciotta. Gorgeous. Romantic. A medieval fishing town clinging to the hill. Hotel Marulivo is as lovely as it looks and the restaurants in town are delicious and affordable. The swimming is good. From Palunuro you can rent a boat to see the grottos along the coast. I'll be there in a week (YAY!), and I'll check out Castellabate too. I would definitely not choose Salerno but then I've only been to rent and return a car.

Spoleto is a good, less-touristed option in Umbria. I've stayed there twice and had a car both times, but it's on the train line and I think you can see the small towns of Umbria via train or bus. Not all, but many.

I would never go to Florence in the summer. I like Lucca but prefer Spoleto. And the Val d'Orcia is gorgeous but lots of visitors and fewer transit options.
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Old Apr 28th, 2014, 11:58 PM
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If you want as few tourists as possible neither the val d'Orcia or Spello fits that description. Be aware that in the first half July Spoleto hosts a huge international music festival so it will be slammed out with tourists (and Perugia will be slammed out with the jazz festival). Assisi is always slammed out with tourists. If I stayed in Todi, I would want a car. (I would want one in Spello too.)

Of all the towns on your list that you don't absolutely need a car, I would probably pick Narni. San Gemini looks lovely, by the way. I'd never heard of it.

Is there any way you can reduce the number of days you need a car in Puglia?
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Old Apr 29th, 2014, 12:12 AM
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I just looked at your previous posts on your trip and if you are flying into Bari and heading to some like Lecce or Matera in Basilicata it is possible to get there by train or bus (and to other major Puglia towns) and skip renting a car for several days depending on where you are and what the rest of your itinerary is.
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Old Apr 29th, 2014, 03:15 AM
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Agree about Pisciotta. Make sure to have dinner below the town in Pisciotta Marina ifi you like seafood.

Beaches at Palinuro are beautiful!
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Old May 2nd, 2014, 09:19 AM
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Thanks everyone! We decided to hold off on the few days in umbria for the next trip and spend those extra days in cilento since it will be less running around, and more relaxing, we booked a beautiful place in pisciotta and I can't wait!!

So, we are doing mostly southern italy this trip (puglia, cilento and rome). Next time, hopefully during the off season, we will hit up Umbria and Tuscany.
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Old May 3rd, 2014, 05:06 PM
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That sounds like a great choice, Lauren. I think it's always better to stay in one general area. We leave tomorrow and are flying in and out of Milan too - on Easy Jet to Naples, then on the 20th, from Bari back to Milan.

I just changed some of our reservations. We had planned to stay in Bernalda, but switched to Pisticci because the hotel - Hotel Torre Fiore Masseria - is so lovely. I'll report back.
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Old May 4th, 2014, 03:46 AM
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Bookmarking
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Old Jul 22nd, 2014, 03:07 AM
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Just a little tip: if during your trip you will want to relax, in Tuscany there are many free hot springs thermal baths: absolutely not touristy... the full list here

www.italytraveller.com/en/e/bargain-baths
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