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Neighbourhood for longer stay in Lisbon?

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If you were going to spend 2-3 weeks in Lisbon, just soaking up the culture and enjoying the cafes, restaurants, bars, parks, etc., what would be some good neighbourhoods? Don't mind walking up and down somewhat, although we wouldn't want an apartment at the very top of a hill, unless it was near the Metro.

I remember walking along Dom Pedro V past the Botanical Gardens, and Science Museum, past the nice park with the farmer's market (Praca do Principe Real?) and then on down to the amazing Church of Sao Roque and thinking that neighbours like this would be fun to live in for a few weeks. I'm sure there are lots of them. Doesn't have to be terribly central to tourist things, as long as it's interesting of itself, and well-connected.

Any suggestions? This is just one of many ideas for a trip next fall--this would be one of the laid-back options. Of course, we'd do side trips.

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