Need suggestions for Sardinia

Old May 15th, 2017, 09:52 AM
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Need suggestions for Sardinia

We'd love to spend 5 or 6 days in Sardinia, in late September/early October. We are a 60's couple, well-traveled, and will rent a car while there. While we've traveled much of Italy before, we've never set foot in Sardinia, and it's hard to even find tour books which cover it. Any suggestions for one or two towns to base ourselves in? Ideally we'll be flying in and out of Cagliari & Alghero. We enjoy great food & drink, historic spots, and of course beautiful beaches & scenery. Any suggestions at all will be very much appreciated.
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Old May 15th, 2017, 11:34 AM
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I've only made one trip to Sardegna and I essentially road-tripped, with a mix of one-night destinations, and then longer ones for Alghero & Cagliari. (I went from north to south). So I can't be too-helpful about the idea of "base" travel. Were I going back to Sardegna, I would road trip again, with the possible exception of staying some nights in either Bosa or Tresnuraghes, and using that as "base" for very small excursions to neighboring towns and beaches. Ditto for the area of Sant'Antioco.

We got a fair bit of advice before going to Sardegna, a surprising amoung of which turned out not to be well-suited to our tastes. For instance, several people told us that the prehistoric sights of Sardegna were not all that interesting, but from the very first one we visited, we were fascinated, and ended up adding more into the intinerary. In particular we found Pozzo Sacro Santa Cristina and Tamilu near Santu Lussurgiu (a marvelous town) incredibly rewarding. likewise the Tomb of the Giants near Olbia, and Barrumini.

We also were told that the interior of Sardegna was "weird" and that the whole point of visiting the island was the scenic beaches, but we found the landscape around places like Orogosolo or Nuoro, once you were in the mountains, to be quite atmospheric, another world. There are intereseting towns up there too, and we thought the rustic food was fantastic.

While Alghero is a heavily touristed town visited by cruise ships, we found a b&b away from the scrum and thought the town wonderful & ambience wonderful. Cagliari was a total surprise. We stayed at the top of the town, on the rocky summit where the oldest part of town are located, and it was wonderful. (Take the short guided tour of the Duomo.) Food in Cagliari was also terrific. We made an excursion to Pula, using a private guide. We did not drive in Cagliari. While there is no two ways about it that much of Nuoro is an ugly town, it turned out to be one of our favorite stays for a pair of nights. We were very taken with the local culture and food. Again, another world.

I'm sure many beaches on the island are thrilling for those who love thrilling beaches and who have time to swim, but in general they were the least interesting part of our journey, and for us not worth the miles and detours to see the advertised "stunning beach". We did see lovely coastline, and that was enough. (Some beaches that left us shrugging our shoulders were Stintino, Cala Gonone, Porto Conte.

We also really treasured an agriturismo stay with 0km farm food, everything harvested from outside the doorstep. Highly reommend you look for a similar experience. (Ours was Su'Recreu in Ittiri.) We wished we'd stayed longer around the Tresnuraghes area and it would be fascining to live in Santu Lussurgiu.

If you are near Barrumini there is an amazing church in the tiny town of Tulli with an extraordinary altarpiece and antique organ. You must call the sacristan's tel number on the door to get the church unlocked.

I think had we done other things we might have equally amazed. Maybe best advice is to read up on what you most want to see, but leave plenty of time to add more stuff in as you discover what is there.
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