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Need Help Narrowing Down Which Loire Chateau to Visit

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Need Help Narrowing Down Which Loire Chateau to Visit

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Old Mar 12th, 2015, 05:55 PM
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Need Help Narrowing Down Which Loire Chateau to Visit

So many chateau...so little time! Our current plan is to leave Mont St Michel early in the morning, drive 4 hours, and stop at Chateau de Villandry for 2 hours or so. We love beautiful gardens and the chateau sounds inviting, too. If there is time, we'll stop briefly for a walk around Amboise, buy chateau tickets at the TI, and go to our lodging in Blere (Moulin du Fief Gentil). After unpacking, we'll have dinner in Blere or return to Amboise (15 minutes away). Does this sound doable?

Blere is very close to Chateau de Cheonceau and we plan to be there when it opens. We are considering seeing Chambord in mid-day and then Cheverny in the late afternoon for the feeding of the hounds, or Chaumont-sur-Loire (mostly for the gardens) if there is time. I realize this may be planning too much in too little time, so I would welcome comments about the amount of time needed to tour the chateau and opinions about prioritizing chateau.

Without buying a ticket, can any of the chateau be approached closely enough to view the exterior and take photos? We are actually more interested in seeing that and the grounds than touring inside (although the roof line of Chambord and the double helix staircase sound intriguing.).

Another alternative would be to return to Amboise to see Chateau du Clos Luce after Chenenceau and possibly Chambord or Chaumont.

Finally, how arduous is the climb to the top of Chambord to see the turrets up close?

I hope this isn't too confusing! Thanks for your guidance.
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Old Mar 12th, 2015, 06:16 PM
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Of the chateau you mention, I visited only two. I spent about 1 hour at Villandry, all in the gardens. That amount of time suited me very well. BTW, if it matters, the gardens of Villandry were open later than just about anything else when I was there, so I made it my last stop of that day. I spent just under 2.5 hours at Chenonceau, and again, that amount of time worked well for me.

Enjoy!
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Old Mar 12th, 2015, 07:18 PM
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Interesting at Villandry how the gardens are wider at the far end, because of perspective when viewed from the terrace of the chateau.

Our favorite is Valencay. Lots of period furnishings. An excellent audio guide, telling in part how Tallyrand ran the place.
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Old Mar 12th, 2015, 11:17 PM
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Chateau de Clos Luce is a fantastic place to visit if you are interested in Leonardo da Vinci and his works. The grounds are also worth spending some time in to see his sculptures etc, but the chateau itself is not a building on the grand scale of most of the well-known ones such as you have listed. To my mind it was more of a grand home. Di
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Old Mar 13th, 2015, 12:03 AM
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Personally I could spend all day at Villandry if my family let me, so 2 hours would be a minimum for me. We saw the inside of the chateau the first time we went and frankly it wasn't worth the time it took ,let alone the money.

Chenonceau is also a priority, as would be the Clos Luce. I have not seen Chambord but we did go to Chaumont where the international Garden festival is always a draw. this year it's on from 23rd April to 31st October. if you are interested in gardening, it should be fun to visit - it tends to be "cutting edge" - not Chelsea.
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Old Mar 13th, 2015, 02:08 AM
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If you want to have diner in Bléré, I would stay there rather than eat there and then drive to Amboise. I will order wine with dinner and I never drive anywhere after drinking anything.

Some of these châteaux I have visited maybe 15 to 20 times over a course of 35 years; here are my recommendations for châteaux east of Tours:

Chambord - the center double helix staircase is easy to climb if you want to visit the roof and enjoy the vista. The staircase has had a lot of repair work done recently but I believe it remains open.

Chenonceau - I would attempt to arrive here as early as possible. Staying in Bléré and visiting the next morning might work well for you.

Cheverny - one of the few château with most if not all of its original furnishings. There is also an interesting story that accompanies the Apprentices Garden with which you should acquaint yourself if you visit here.

Most under rated château: Château Blois - the architectural developments which take place over a number of years are fascinating and easy to compare and recognize.

Most over rated visit: le Clos Lucé - there is absolutely nothing of Leonardo's found here; while he did live here, what´s left is mostly imagination, marketing and a few recreations of his ideas in the basement.

Most of Château Amboise was destroyed during the Revolution. It is best viewed and photographed from across the Loire River. I would only pay for admission here if I had alot of time. The tiny chapel, where Leonardo´s remains are said to be laid to rest, is visible from the street below the château.

The garden show at Chaumont is interesting if you like gardening. The show is best viewed earlier in the year when the displays are at their best, rather than later in the year.

If you call ahead, you might have time to include a visit to la Cave de la Grande Brosse. Situated between Cheverny and Chenonceaux, this vineyard stores and ages its wine in the cave which was actually an underground quarry for the procurement of limestone used to built the surrounding châteaux.

Give Philippe a call and see if you can arrange a visit:

http://www.cavegrandebrosse.com/
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Old Mar 13th, 2015, 02:13 AM
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You can certainly approach Chambord without a ticket, and I think you can go into the courtyard. The chateau isn't furnished, but sometimes there are small exhibitions that might interest you.

The climb to the roof is not too hard (part of it being that wonderful staircase), but I don't know if you can get outside with the turrets unless you're with a guide.
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Old Mar 13th, 2015, 02:53 AM
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Hi DRCHRIS,

Personally I would not attempt three chateaux in one day. Definitely CHENONCEAU, as suggested - get there early. Lovely interiors, magnificent gardens, and spectacular floral arrangements throughout.

I thought CHAMBORD sterile and disappointing. I don't recall seeing any gardens on their wide, flat lawns.

Heard that VELENCAY is gorgeous but haven't been there. Have a great trip...
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Old Mar 13th, 2015, 03:34 AM
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We will visit 3 in a day, Cheonceau only after 4pm when the tour buses leave. We liked the evening light show in Amboise, dinner at L'Epicerie beforehand. We love Chambrod, Villandry almost every one we have visited. The only time we ever left one and felt we wasted time was Château d'Ussé (Sleeping Beautys Castle).
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Old Mar 13th, 2015, 06:33 AM
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Thanks to all. This gives me some food for thought. I am concerned now about possibly not being able to go on the rof at Chambord without a guide as that is what most interests me, and I might not go if That't not possible. Does anyone else know? I don't remember seeing anything on their website. I saw photos on Teipadvisor of people walking around on the roof and assumed it was open to all.

I believe the sound and light show at Amboise is only on during the summer, but there is one at Chateau Blois, though we don't want to drive that far so late at night (10 pm).

I hadn't considered Velencay and will do some research on it.
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Old Mar 13th, 2015, 06:55 AM
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Why would you need a guide to visit the roofs at Chambord? We were in the Loire for 2 weeks this past Sept, & spent about 1 hr on the rooftop just wandering around. They were doing some rooftop construction at the time.

Only 2 hrs at Villandry!!! We got there at 9 when they opened. Only visited the gardens. I had lunch by myself outside of the entrance at 12:00 and finished at 1:30. My wife stayed inside the garden grounds - photographing (about 500 pictures). She met me after I finished lunch. She was viewing/photographing for 4 1/2 hrs.

Here is a Shutterfly book she developed for our trip to the Loire Chateau region (trip also included Ile de Re plus Poitiers area). She ran out of allowable pages before she was ably to include the pictures she wanted to put in the book for Villandry & Chambord. So Villandry & Chambord will be a "later book" (she hasn't started it yet).

http://share.shutterfly.com/share/re...=1EYt2Llw1ZMpC

Click "view photo book" and then "full screen".

Stu Dudley
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Old Mar 13th, 2015, 09:01 AM
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<<The climb to the roof is not too hard (part of it being that wonderful staircase), but I don't know if you can get outside with the turrets unless you're with a guide.>>

Uncertain what you're on about. Dr. Chris is talking about the ROOF of Chambord, not the outer walls. There are no real "turrets" there are hundreds of towers. And we were able to climb up and look at them on our own just like every other set of travelers. The boss was 6.5 months along with junior when we did it, so either the climb isn't bad or the wife is that dang tough or both. And yes, it is more than worth it.

The sterility of Chambord (to the extent it is "sterile" - it is not) is part of the point of the visit - > 100 rooms, > 100 fireplaces, unstinting excess, and the Bourbons barely used the place.
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Old Mar 13th, 2015, 01:12 PM
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I believe that there are 365 fireplaces at Chambord and the roof is absolutely available without a guide.

I have never thought Chambord to be sterile. The architecture is mesmerizing, much of it revolutionary, the scope of the work took decades to complete, and many consider it to be the real gem of the Loire Valley.
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Old Mar 13th, 2015, 01:39 PM
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Yeah, I undershot the mark because the actual number seemed so ludicrous - Chambord has 440 rooms, a fireplace for every day of the year, and could never be comfortably heated.

And yes, Chambord and Chenonceau are usually considered the two must-see chateaux.

Cheverny is the basis of Marlinspike Hall in Tintin. If it still has the Tintin bookshop, be sure to look at the horrific Tintin in the Congo . . .
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Old Mar 13th, 2015, 01:45 PM
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Chambord, Chenonceau, Cheverny are often considered to be the top three "out in the countryside." Amboise and Blois are excellent inside cities. And I like Azay-le-Rideau which is on the fringe of the Loire Valley.
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Old Mar 13th, 2015, 02:08 PM
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IMO, one of the great things about Chambord is that there are no gardens and no landscaping of note to detract from its architectural beauty. I love gardens but not at Chambord! I also like kerouac's picks.
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Old Mar 13th, 2015, 03:58 PM
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More wonderful suggestions to chew on. It's so difficult to choose when time is so limited.

StuDudley and BigRuss - thanks for the encouragement about climbing to the roof not being too difficult. Last year we walked 7-8 1/2 miles a day in Italy and climbed what seemed like thousands of stairs, so I'm hoping France will be kinder to my knees. But I have begun working out at the gym and will be in much better shape for this trip!

StuDudley - Please give your wife kudos for designing such a beautiful photo book, and thank you for sharing it. The photos are stunning and the way she has put them together tells a lovely story about the places you visited. I, too, am a Shutterfly fan and have done a book of our trip to Switzerland but have yet to complete one for the Italy trip (too busy making them for my granddaughter!). Your gites were so warm and lovely and the food looked delicious. I am curious about the month during which you visited Valencay as I read a post elsewhere from someone who visited in June and said there were few plantings then, which sounded odd. As for time allotted for Villandry, I wish it could be more but we are taking what I sometimes call a "tasting tour" of France. If we live long enough, keep our health, and don't run out of money, perhaps we can return (after we've visited several other countries we want to see).
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Old Mar 13th, 2015, 04:28 PM
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We were at Villandry in mid Sept. My wife has made 21 Shutterfly books about our vacations in Europe. She just finished Cote d'Azur & Provence - our June trip last year.

Stu Dudley
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Old Mar 14th, 2015, 10:50 AM
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StuDudley - Thanks for always responsing. I'm impressed, knowing well how many hours (or should I say days?) go into creating those photo books. Can I ask what size book she does? I did an 8 X 11 for Switzerland but wonder if I should bump up to the 12 X 12 for future books.
Inspired by the description of your trip to Villandry, I did some tweaking to our itinerary and think we can manage 3 1/2 - 4 hours there. We love to stroll through beautiful gardens so that will be a relaxing treat.
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Old Mar 14th, 2015, 10:50 AM
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responding - not responsing!
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