Naxos and Santorini - May 2010
Jun 11th, 2010, 10:35 AM
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Naxos and Santorini - May 2010
We returned home from Naxos and Santorini a couple of weeks ago and have prepared a trip report I have started with the practical stuff. I've also started to put some of my Naxos pictures onto Flickr and Worldisround - Santorini pictures and some from a boat trip to Mykonos and Delos will follow, when I've finished sorting them out There are a few more pictures in the Worldisround article, as I don't like flooding Flickr, as it's not just a travel site.
Flickr Slideshow
http://www.flickr.com/photos/3169346...18521773/show/
Flickr set
http://www.flickr.com/photos/3169346...7624018521773/
Worldisround article
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/359655/index.html
Booking, accommodation and transfers
We travelled from the UK using a tour operator called Sunvil and I must say, we were very impressed with their service and flexiblity. Few UK tour operators seem to offer Naxos, maybe due to the transfer complications. Although there is a small airport on the island, this appears just to be used for internal flights from Athens, which means that most tourists arrive by ferry from either Santorini or Mykonos. We discovered that the Manchester flight to Santorini arrives too late for the ferry - this proved no problem for Sunvil. At their suggestion, we spent one night on arrival on Santorini, then caught the ferry the following day. We had 9 nights on Naxos and returned to Santorini for the last 4 nights. This had several advantages - We did not have to rely on a ferry to catch a flight (or vice versa), we had the bulk of our time on Naxos, which we have never visited before, 4 nights was enough for us to re-visit anything we wanted on Santorini (which we visited 10 years ago) and it reduced the cost, as we wanted to stay in more upmarket caldera view accommodation for our stay on Santorini. Sunvil don't have their own reps on Naxos or Santorini but use local travel companies on these islands. This seemed to work very well. We had a local contact in case of problems, no hard sell and all information, transfers, delivery of ferry tickets, etc, worked very smoothly.
After all the fiasco with the volcanic ash clouds, we were relieved to be able to fly on 11th May. The airport seemed very quiet when we arrived for our 11am flight and we were checked in and through security in record time. The flight actually left a few minutes early and we were soon landing in Santorini. Our baggage arrived quickly and we walked outside to find someone holding up a card with our name and we were ushered into a waiting taxi. Our first night was spent in a hotel called the Philippion, on the main road heading into Fira and about 10 minutes walk into town. The room was simple but clean, we had a good buffet breakfast in their restaurant overlooking the caldera and the hotel had a nice pool area where we were able to relax the next morning until our transfer.
On arrival at the hotel, a fax was waiting for us with details of our transfer for the next day and an envelope with our ferry tickets. All the transfers went very smoothly and were either by minibus or taxi, there was always someone waiting at the other end with our name and ferry tickets arrived, as promised. The huge Blue Line car ferry takes two and a half hours to travel between Naxos and Santorini. There was a general strike while we were there, fortunately the day before our transfer back to Santorini, so we were not affected. In fact we were on a boat trip that day and were totally unaware it was taking place. Other than ferries, banks and flights, it had no effect on tourists already in the resorts.
On Naxos we stayed in the Birikos apartments in Aghios Prokopios. The apartments are about 5 minutes walk from the beach, tavernas and shops and around 15 minutes further on to Aghia Anna. The small complex is set in well kept gardens around a swimming pool and consists of a pension and various sizes of apartments, including some more expensive deluxe ones in a separate block. We had a standard, one bedroomed apartment which was spacious and simply furnished. We even had a sea view - admittedly across the swimming pool, over the road and past the petrol station! Cooking facilities consisted of 2 rings, set into one end of the sink drainer - enough for making breakfast and coffee but not for any serious cooking. There was a small snack bar at reception, serving breakfast, snacks and drinks if you didn't want to bother making your own. The apartments were spotless, sheets and towels were replaced and the rooms cleaned, every other day. The whole complex seemed very well maintained by Maria and Dimitrios Birikos and we were made very welcome.
http://www.birikos-studios-naxos.gr/
We visited Santorini 10 years ago, staying in the beach resort of Perissa. We said that if we ever returned, we would like to stay by the caldera. We booked 4 nights in the Pegasus Suites in Imerovigli, staying in a superior studio on a bed and breakfast basis. When we arrived, our cases were carried to the caldera path with us walking behind, wondering where we were going. From the path, all that can be seen of the hotel is a wall with a gate and a small sign. The hotel is arranged on terraces below this, on the side of the caldera. Our room was at the bottom level, down lots of steps, with a terrace overlooking the pool and the caldera beyond. The spacious room had a king sized bed, a flat screen TV with satellite channels, a small fridge (which doubled as a mini bar) and was decorated with Minoan style frescoes on the walls. The large bathroom was all finished in marble and had a proper shower cubicle. Extras such as hairdryer, monogrammed bath robes and slippers and pool towels were included. Breakfast was was served by the pool or on your own terrace - we just rang reception when we were ready and tray full of food was delivered and set out. The first day's breakfast consisted of bacon and egg, a basket of bread, some mini croissants, fruit, yoghurt, honey and jams, orange juice and coffee. The contents varied from day to day but each was equally good.
http://www.pegasussuites.com/
Prices
We hired a car for a week on Naxos, which cost us €210, fully insured. Fuel is quite expensive at around €1.60 a litre. Meals on Naxos cost us in the region of €35 to €45 (starters and main course for two, bottle water, a Mythos and half a litre of house wine). A Mythos typically cost €2.5 to €3 and half a litre of house wine €3. We paid a bit more in Chora but for a more upmarket meal. Prices in santorini were typically higher and some with caldera views were extremeley expensive - but it was still possible to eat a reasonably priced meal on a par with Naxos if we chose somewhere on a back street. We never had a bad meal on either island.
Weather
As it was quite early in the season, we were prepared for changeable weather. It turned out to be mainly very nice. The first few days it was very hot - getting as high the late 30s C. We were told the winds were coming from the Sahara and it did get quite windy and dusty - one particular day it was like walking round with a hair-dryer blowing over us! We then had a day where it rained a little, and then the weather become brighter, clearer and fresher. We had one more rainy day but as most of the rain was while we were on the ferry back to Santorini, it didn't really bother us. The days were in the comfortable mid 20s, sometimes a bit breezy and we needed a light fleece at night. Overall it was very good for May.
Flickr Slideshow
http://www.flickr.com/photos/3169346...18521773/show/
Flickr set
http://www.flickr.com/photos/3169346...7624018521773/
Worldisround article
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/359655/index.html
Booking, accommodation and transfers
We travelled from the UK using a tour operator called Sunvil and I must say, we were very impressed with their service and flexiblity. Few UK tour operators seem to offer Naxos, maybe due to the transfer complications. Although there is a small airport on the island, this appears just to be used for internal flights from Athens, which means that most tourists arrive by ferry from either Santorini or Mykonos. We discovered that the Manchester flight to Santorini arrives too late for the ferry - this proved no problem for Sunvil. At their suggestion, we spent one night on arrival on Santorini, then caught the ferry the following day. We had 9 nights on Naxos and returned to Santorini for the last 4 nights. This had several advantages - We did not have to rely on a ferry to catch a flight (or vice versa), we had the bulk of our time on Naxos, which we have never visited before, 4 nights was enough for us to re-visit anything we wanted on Santorini (which we visited 10 years ago) and it reduced the cost, as we wanted to stay in more upmarket caldera view accommodation for our stay on Santorini. Sunvil don't have their own reps on Naxos or Santorini but use local travel companies on these islands. This seemed to work very well. We had a local contact in case of problems, no hard sell and all information, transfers, delivery of ferry tickets, etc, worked very smoothly.
After all the fiasco with the volcanic ash clouds, we were relieved to be able to fly on 11th May. The airport seemed very quiet when we arrived for our 11am flight and we were checked in and through security in record time. The flight actually left a few minutes early and we were soon landing in Santorini. Our baggage arrived quickly and we walked outside to find someone holding up a card with our name and we were ushered into a waiting taxi. Our first night was spent in a hotel called the Philippion, on the main road heading into Fira and about 10 minutes walk into town. The room was simple but clean, we had a good buffet breakfast in their restaurant overlooking the caldera and the hotel had a nice pool area where we were able to relax the next morning until our transfer.
On arrival at the hotel, a fax was waiting for us with details of our transfer for the next day and an envelope with our ferry tickets. All the transfers went very smoothly and were either by minibus or taxi, there was always someone waiting at the other end with our name and ferry tickets arrived, as promised. The huge Blue Line car ferry takes two and a half hours to travel between Naxos and Santorini. There was a general strike while we were there, fortunately the day before our transfer back to Santorini, so we were not affected. In fact we were on a boat trip that day and were totally unaware it was taking place. Other than ferries, banks and flights, it had no effect on tourists already in the resorts.
On Naxos we stayed in the Birikos apartments in Aghios Prokopios. The apartments are about 5 minutes walk from the beach, tavernas and shops and around 15 minutes further on to Aghia Anna. The small complex is set in well kept gardens around a swimming pool and consists of a pension and various sizes of apartments, including some more expensive deluxe ones in a separate block. We had a standard, one bedroomed apartment which was spacious and simply furnished. We even had a sea view - admittedly across the swimming pool, over the road and past the petrol station! Cooking facilities consisted of 2 rings, set into one end of the sink drainer - enough for making breakfast and coffee but not for any serious cooking. There was a small snack bar at reception, serving breakfast, snacks and drinks if you didn't want to bother making your own. The apartments were spotless, sheets and towels were replaced and the rooms cleaned, every other day. The whole complex seemed very well maintained by Maria and Dimitrios Birikos and we were made very welcome.
http://www.birikos-studios-naxos.gr/
We visited Santorini 10 years ago, staying in the beach resort of Perissa. We said that if we ever returned, we would like to stay by the caldera. We booked 4 nights in the Pegasus Suites in Imerovigli, staying in a superior studio on a bed and breakfast basis. When we arrived, our cases were carried to the caldera path with us walking behind, wondering where we were going. From the path, all that can be seen of the hotel is a wall with a gate and a small sign. The hotel is arranged on terraces below this, on the side of the caldera. Our room was at the bottom level, down lots of steps, with a terrace overlooking the pool and the caldera beyond. The spacious room had a king sized bed, a flat screen TV with satellite channels, a small fridge (which doubled as a mini bar) and was decorated with Minoan style frescoes on the walls. The large bathroom was all finished in marble and had a proper shower cubicle. Extras such as hairdryer, monogrammed bath robes and slippers and pool towels were included. Breakfast was was served by the pool or on your own terrace - we just rang reception when we were ready and tray full of food was delivered and set out. The first day's breakfast consisted of bacon and egg, a basket of bread, some mini croissants, fruit, yoghurt, honey and jams, orange juice and coffee. The contents varied from day to day but each was equally good.
http://www.pegasussuites.com/
Prices
We hired a car for a week on Naxos, which cost us €210, fully insured. Fuel is quite expensive at around €1.60 a litre. Meals on Naxos cost us in the region of €35 to €45 (starters and main course for two, bottle water, a Mythos and half a litre of house wine). A Mythos typically cost €2.5 to €3 and half a litre of house wine €3. We paid a bit more in Chora but for a more upmarket meal. Prices in santorini were typically higher and some with caldera views were extremeley expensive - but it was still possible to eat a reasonably priced meal on a par with Naxos if we chose somewhere on a back street. We never had a bad meal on either island.
Weather
As it was quite early in the season, we were prepared for changeable weather. It turned out to be mainly very nice. The first few days it was very hot - getting as high the late 30s C. We were told the winds were coming from the Sahara and it did get quite windy and dusty - one particular day it was like walking round with a hair-dryer blowing over us! We then had a day where it rained a little, and then the weather become brighter, clearer and fresher. We had one more rainy day but as most of the rain was while we were on the ferry back to Santorini, it didn't really bother us. The days were in the comfortable mid 20s, sometimes a bit breezy and we needed a light fleece at night. Overall it was very good for May.
Jun 11th, 2010, 01:08 PM
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Thank you for the lovely photos of Naxos! I look forward to your Santorini and Mykonos/Delos photos. We were in Greece last year, and are hopefully going to return this Fall (this time including Naxos), so your report is very timely. Sounds like you had a wonderful trip.
Jun 15th, 2010, 02:44 AM
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Naxos
Naxos is the biggest of the islands in the Cyclades and is around 40km from north to south and a little less wide. It is an attractive and relatively green island with mountains in the centre of the island rising to around 1000 metres. As most tourists arrive by ferry, it seems to have escaped mass commercialism and has a traditionally Greek feel. Much of the tourism centred in and around Chora (Naxos Town), on the west of the island, and the adjoining Aghios Georgios beach. South of that are the small resorts of Aghios Prokopios and Aghia Anna, at either end of a sandy bay. There are many, beautiful, sandy beaches round the island and though a few of the sea-side villages and bays may have a scattering of of accommodation and tavernas, they could hardly be described as major resorts. We were rather early in the season but few of the tourists we came upon were British - we saw French, Italian, German and a few Americans - we even got talking to an Australian couple who were spending 6 weeks exploring Greece.
Chora is the main town and is where the ferries and most tourists arrive on the island. The old town is built on a hill, in and around the remains of a Ventian Castle. The narrow lanes of the old town are a great place to explore, containing tourist shops and tavernas, several museums and churches and it is also still very much lived in. The archeology museum was free to enter and worth a visit, we didn't get round to visiting the folk or Venetian house museums but they also looked interesting. More tavernas line the harbour front, where you can watch the ferries, fishing and tour boats going to and fro. At the north of the harbour a causeway leads to the little hill containing the remains of the Temple of Apollo and the famous and much photographed Portara or Naxos Gate.
We stayed in Aghios Prokopios, which is a small resort at the northern end of a sandy bay about 10 minutes drive south from Chora. The beach is a long, wide stretch of coarse golden sand that reaches beyond the small selection of tavernas, cafes and shops by the beach road. When we arrived, only 2 of the tavernas and a couple of cafe/bars were open (fortunately both were good) but as the week progressed, more started to open or prepare for opening. A 15 minutes walk south brought us to Aghia Anna, which was probably the prettier of the two resorts, with some of the tavernas opening directly onto the beach. At the south end of the bay was a headland with a little white church and beyond that, beautiful sandy Plaka beach which stretched for miles.
There is plenty to explore on the island, making a few days car hire worthwhile. We hired a car for most of the time we were there, which enabled us to visit some of the more remote corners of the island and the mountain villages. The roads are typically winding and steep in places but generally very quiet. Some lovely quiet beaches can be found but some of the more remote beaches are reached by dirt tracks.
The island is famous for it's white marble, which has been quarried since antiquity and exported for use in places like Delos. Modern quarries carve great blocks out of mountainsides, which make it look like the mountain is made of huge white lego bricks which are being slowly dismanted. At a couple of sites on the island, evidence of older quarrying can be seen and partially completed statues lie abandoned, presumably when the marble broke before completion. These are known as Kouros. a couple lie on the hillside near the village of Melanes - these are around 5 metres tall and looked like the carving was almost complete. An even larger Kouros, at 10 metres tall, lies still attached to the hillside where it was being quarried, just off the road above Apollonas in the north-east of the island.
There are a couple of ancient sites on the island. The Temple of Dionysos at Iria, is signposted near the back of the airport. Not much remains to be seen here, other than the bases of columns but the site was pleasant with flowers and was full of little lizards, scuttling about. The Temple of Demeter near the village od Ano Sagri has a partially re-constructed 6th C BC temple and a small museum - both free to enter and worth a visit.
The hill towns are quite attractive and we visited Apiranthos, a pretty town built largely of marble. It is also possible to visit the kitron distillery in the village of Halki, though we didn't get round to this. Kitron is the local liqueur, distilled from citrus leaves which comes in various flavours and colours. We were given one "on the house" after a meal. The smell of the bright yellow liquid reminded me somewhat of lemon scented flash! It didn't taste too bad but I can't say I was totally taken with it!
One of the things we wanted to do while on Naxos, was to visit the island of Delos. It is not possible to stay overnight on the island but boat trips run once a week (more often in high season) visiting the islands of Delos and Mykonos, staying for around 3 hours on each. The journey to Delos took a little over an hour and we were lucky enough to have a perfect, sunny day. The island is a World heritage site and has been considered a sacred island for thousands of years. It was the mythical birthplace of the god Apollo and his twin sister Artemis. In Roman times it was apparantly a wealthy trading island with a tax haven status. The ruins are extensive and well worth visiting, as is the modern museum on the site, containing some wonderful micro-mosaics, statues and other finds from the site. We also climbed to the 100 metre peak of Mount Kythnos, a steep climb in the sun but worth it for amazing views over the ruins and nearby islands.
We have avoided holidaying on Mykonos, due to it's reputation as a "party" island but were interested to see it for a few hours. There is no doubt that Mykonos Town (also known as Chora) is pretty, with it's turquoise sea, sandy beach and blue and white houses but I'm afraid I found it an almost Disney-fied version of Greece. The island is popular with well heeled youngsters and is also frequented by the cruise ships. The shops and tavernas looked upmarket and expensive - especially the harbourside tavernas where we were hassled to enter as we passed. Though it was intersting to see, to be honest we would have been happy to spend the whole day exploring Delos and missing out on Mykonos.
We very much enjoyed our time on Naxos and would highly recommend it to anyone who likes the less commercial side of Greece. Beaches were beautiful and there is sufficient to explore to easily fill a week or two. We have also added the nearby island of Paros to our "must see" list.
Some pictures from Delos and Mykonos - the link to the Naxos pictures are in the original post.
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/359676/index.html
Naxos is the biggest of the islands in the Cyclades and is around 40km from north to south and a little less wide. It is an attractive and relatively green island with mountains in the centre of the island rising to around 1000 metres. As most tourists arrive by ferry, it seems to have escaped mass commercialism and has a traditionally Greek feel. Much of the tourism centred in and around Chora (Naxos Town), on the west of the island, and the adjoining Aghios Georgios beach. South of that are the small resorts of Aghios Prokopios and Aghia Anna, at either end of a sandy bay. There are many, beautiful, sandy beaches round the island and though a few of the sea-side villages and bays may have a scattering of of accommodation and tavernas, they could hardly be described as major resorts. We were rather early in the season but few of the tourists we came upon were British - we saw French, Italian, German and a few Americans - we even got talking to an Australian couple who were spending 6 weeks exploring Greece.
Chora is the main town and is where the ferries and most tourists arrive on the island. The old town is built on a hill, in and around the remains of a Ventian Castle. The narrow lanes of the old town are a great place to explore, containing tourist shops and tavernas, several museums and churches and it is also still very much lived in. The archeology museum was free to enter and worth a visit, we didn't get round to visiting the folk or Venetian house museums but they also looked interesting. More tavernas line the harbour front, where you can watch the ferries, fishing and tour boats going to and fro. At the north of the harbour a causeway leads to the little hill containing the remains of the Temple of Apollo and the famous and much photographed Portara or Naxos Gate.
We stayed in Aghios Prokopios, which is a small resort at the northern end of a sandy bay about 10 minutes drive south from Chora. The beach is a long, wide stretch of coarse golden sand that reaches beyond the small selection of tavernas, cafes and shops by the beach road. When we arrived, only 2 of the tavernas and a couple of cafe/bars were open (fortunately both were good) but as the week progressed, more started to open or prepare for opening. A 15 minutes walk south brought us to Aghia Anna, which was probably the prettier of the two resorts, with some of the tavernas opening directly onto the beach. At the south end of the bay was a headland with a little white church and beyond that, beautiful sandy Plaka beach which stretched for miles.
There is plenty to explore on the island, making a few days car hire worthwhile. We hired a car for most of the time we were there, which enabled us to visit some of the more remote corners of the island and the mountain villages. The roads are typically winding and steep in places but generally very quiet. Some lovely quiet beaches can be found but some of the more remote beaches are reached by dirt tracks.
The island is famous for it's white marble, which has been quarried since antiquity and exported for use in places like Delos. Modern quarries carve great blocks out of mountainsides, which make it look like the mountain is made of huge white lego bricks which are being slowly dismanted. At a couple of sites on the island, evidence of older quarrying can be seen and partially completed statues lie abandoned, presumably when the marble broke before completion. These are known as Kouros. a couple lie on the hillside near the village of Melanes - these are around 5 metres tall and looked like the carving was almost complete. An even larger Kouros, at 10 metres tall, lies still attached to the hillside where it was being quarried, just off the road above Apollonas in the north-east of the island.
There are a couple of ancient sites on the island. The Temple of Dionysos at Iria, is signposted near the back of the airport. Not much remains to be seen here, other than the bases of columns but the site was pleasant with flowers and was full of little lizards, scuttling about. The Temple of Demeter near the village od Ano Sagri has a partially re-constructed 6th C BC temple and a small museum - both free to enter and worth a visit.
The hill towns are quite attractive and we visited Apiranthos, a pretty town built largely of marble. It is also possible to visit the kitron distillery in the village of Halki, though we didn't get round to this. Kitron is the local liqueur, distilled from citrus leaves which comes in various flavours and colours. We were given one "on the house" after a meal. The smell of the bright yellow liquid reminded me somewhat of lemon scented flash! It didn't taste too bad but I can't say I was totally taken with it!
One of the things we wanted to do while on Naxos, was to visit the island of Delos. It is not possible to stay overnight on the island but boat trips run once a week (more often in high season) visiting the islands of Delos and Mykonos, staying for around 3 hours on each. The journey to Delos took a little over an hour and we were lucky enough to have a perfect, sunny day. The island is a World heritage site and has been considered a sacred island for thousands of years. It was the mythical birthplace of the god Apollo and his twin sister Artemis. In Roman times it was apparantly a wealthy trading island with a tax haven status. The ruins are extensive and well worth visiting, as is the modern museum on the site, containing some wonderful micro-mosaics, statues and other finds from the site. We also climbed to the 100 metre peak of Mount Kythnos, a steep climb in the sun but worth it for amazing views over the ruins and nearby islands.
We have avoided holidaying on Mykonos, due to it's reputation as a "party" island but were interested to see it for a few hours. There is no doubt that Mykonos Town (also known as Chora) is pretty, with it's turquoise sea, sandy beach and blue and white houses but I'm afraid I found it an almost Disney-fied version of Greece. The island is popular with well heeled youngsters and is also frequented by the cruise ships. The shops and tavernas looked upmarket and expensive - especially the harbourside tavernas where we were hassled to enter as we passed. Though it was intersting to see, to be honest we would have been happy to spend the whole day exploring Delos and missing out on Mykonos.
We very much enjoyed our time on Naxos and would highly recommend it to anyone who likes the less commercial side of Greece. Beaches were beautiful and there is sufficient to explore to easily fill a week or two. We have also added the nearby island of Paros to our "must see" list.
Some pictures from Delos and Mykonos - the link to the Naxos pictures are in the original post.
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/359676/index.html
Jun 15th, 2010, 05:10 AM
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Thanks for your informative report! As an independent traveler who is a great fan of Naxos (i've been to Greece 9 times since 1999 and Naxos is the only island that's been on my itinerary every single time), it is interesting to get the reactions from someone who is more accustomed to a package holiday arrangement. This may encourage others in the UK to be more venturesome.
I'm glad you liked your accommodations and that you enjoyed exploring the entire island. Some people are not aware that, just a few km's inland from the beaches, Naxians go about their lives as they always have, on their fertile farms and hillsides, and thus visitors can glimpse more of an authentic Greek island life, rather than on the islands that have largely turned themselves over to tourism (such as Kos).
Thanks also for the good review of the day-excursion to Delos/Mykonos. There are 2 companies offering this, as well as a day-excursion to Santorini; their trips take people from Naxos AND Paros. These are virtually the ONLY day-excursions available in the Cycladic islands and are workable because they use their own vessels -- visitors who try to use regular ferries for a day-trip to adjoining isles find it impossible because the schedules are not set up for this.
Your flicker slideshow of Naxos is super... captures the flavor of the place ... and the serenity of the sunsets over the harbors. Thanks.
I'm glad you liked your accommodations and that you enjoyed exploring the entire island. Some people are not aware that, just a few km's inland from the beaches, Naxians go about their lives as they always have, on their fertile farms and hillsides, and thus visitors can glimpse more of an authentic Greek island life, rather than on the islands that have largely turned themselves over to tourism (such as Kos).
Thanks also for the good review of the day-excursion to Delos/Mykonos. There are 2 companies offering this, as well as a day-excursion to Santorini; their trips take people from Naxos AND Paros. These are virtually the ONLY day-excursions available in the Cycladic islands and are workable because they use their own vessels -- visitors who try to use regular ferries for a day-trip to adjoining isles find it impossible because the schedules are not set up for this.
Your flicker slideshow of Naxos is super... captures the flavor of the place ... and the serenity of the sunsets over the harbors. Thanks.
Jun 15th, 2010, 05:49 AM
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Thanks travelerjan. We have done both package and independant travel to Greece and almost always hire a car to see more of the area. Package holidays need not be restricting and much of our early experiences of Greece were exploring from a cheap and cheerful package holiday base. Sunvil offer the best of both worlds in that their packages are quite flexible but someone else makes all the arrangements, flights ferries, etc. It is also all ATOL protected, an important factor at the moment with the fiasco earlier in the year with volcanic ash and the financial climate putting tour operators at risk. We have also been to many Greek destinations (mainland and islands) and don't often return to the same place - but Naxos is one I would go definitely back to.
Our Delos trip also called at Paros, where most of the passengers got on board that particular day. I'll add our Santorini experience when I've had chance to sort out my pictures.
Our Delos trip also called at Paros, where most of the passengers got on board that particular day. I'll add our Santorini experience when I've had chance to sort out my pictures.
Jun 15th, 2010, 02:41 PM
#6
Maria,
Your photos of Naxos are terrific - I love the closeups (the cat with kittens is photo-perfect! as much as the scenics. You've definitely whet my appetite for my trip next year to Naxos, and I only wish that I had more days to spend. I also loved the photos of Delos - the statues and the mosaics in the museum are remarkable.
Thanks for a great report.
Paule
Your photos of Naxos are terrific - I love the closeups (the cat with kittens is photo-perfect! as much as the scenics. You've definitely whet my appetite for my trip next year to Naxos, and I only wish that I had more days to spend. I also loved the photos of Delos - the statues and the mosaics in the museum are remarkable.
Thanks for a great report.
Paule
Jun 23rd, 2010, 04:27 AM
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Santorini
Having first visted Santorini 10 years ago, we didn't feel we needed to spend a week on this small island., so we booked 4 nights, plus a night on arrival, as the flight arrived too late for the ferry to Naxos. This was enough for us to re-visit anything we wanted and to spend a few days in more luxurious, up-market accommodation, without breaking the bank. Our hotel was in Imerovigli and about half an hour's walk down the hill brought us to the centre of Fira - and obviously back uphill on the way back! Both Imerovigli and Firostefani, which is in between, have their share of mainly up-market accommodation and restaurants, so it was not necessary to walk into Fira every night to eat and we found less expensive places on the side of town bordering the road, rather than the caldera.
Fira town is packed full of tourists of all nationalities, many of them day visitors from the visiting cruise ships. Cable cars or donkeys transport these visitors up from the port to tha main town on the top of the caldera. It is the main shopping centre with plenty of tacky tourist souvenirs and expensive (but equally tacky looking) gold shops and very expensive restaurants, especially those with caldera views. It is a unique place and worth seeing and the cathedral and museums are also worth a visit - but it is very touristy, busy and expensive. One thing I'd also say is that the island is not very suitable for anyone with walking difficulties, as there are many steps, hills and uneven cobbles. Some of the older cruise ship passengers really looked to be struggling, getting about the town.
It wasn't worth us hiring a car on Santorini, as all the busses start from Fira and are cheap and reasonably frequent. One of the highlights for us, was to walk from our hotel, all along the caldera to Oia which is about 5 miles. For all but a couple of hundred yards, the route runs on paths and tracks beside the caldera giving amazing views. Though much of the vegetation was already starting to dry up, in places the path was bordered by wild flowers and it must have been very colourful a month or so earlier. Oia seems to have grown a lot since our last visit (a little too much for my liking) and is certainly very touristy. There is some some very upmarket accommodation, shops and restaurants but the place, though undeniably very pretty, is almost too pristine and a little like a stage set. We didn't go back to Oia for the famous sunsets but saw some equally good ones from nearer our hotel - without the huge crowds and applause!
We very much enjoyed visiting Pyrgos, which we had remembered from our last visit to Santorini. In the years since then, this little hill town seems to have developed more into a tourist destination with tavernas and gift shops and even a very smart looking looking hotel. One thing we had remembered from our previous visit, that hadn't changed, was a little old man with his donkey, who asked for a few euros to have his picture taken! He was still in the little square where we remembered him from last time - but now had 2 donkeys! It is a pretty town to explore and is still very much lived in.
The ruins of Ancient Thera sit high on a hill on the headland between the black sand beach resorts of Perissa and Kamari. On our last visit we had walked up to it on the path from Perissa and had planned to do the same this time. We just missed the Perissa bus, so ended up getting the bus to Kamari instead, where a zig-zag road leads up the hillside. As the bus arrived in Kamari, we saw a sign saying that the site was only open until 2.30 - we also realised that the hill was much bigger than we remembered, at around 400 metres (we were 10 years younger then!). As it was already almost noon, we had visions of getting to the top just as it shut. When we were there last the site was completely open - now there is a gate and a small entrance fee of a couple of euros. As luck would have it, the bus stopped right outside a small tour office and the guy there greeted us, asking if we wanted to get the minibus to Ancient Thera that was due to go in 5 minutes! For 10 euros return, we were saved a long hot climb and had sufficient time to explore the ruins before they closed. The city was inhabited from 9thC BC and has remains from Hellenistic and Roman times. The site is worth a visit and has good views over Perissa and Kamari.
We were lucky enough to visit the 3600 year old ruins of Akrotiri when we visited Santorini 10 years ago. The Minoan town was buried by ash and pumice, preserving many of the buildings and excavations only started in 1967. I read somewhere that only something like 3% of the ruins have been excavated, so it is amazing to think what still might be found. The site is unfortunately still closed at the moment, after the accident 5 years ago where the protective roof collapsed, killing someone. There is no confirmation of when it will re-open, though someone told me it will be next year - though they have been saying that for the last few years now! Some of the finds and frescoes from this amazing site are now housed in the Museum of Prehistoric Thera in Fira town, which we found fascinating.
Would I return to Santorini? I know some people adore the island and others have been put off by the commercialism. It is one of those islands that is worth seeing, not because it is typically Greek but it is unique. Having been twice, we wouldn't return for a long stay - but it is a useful arrival point for some of the other Cyclades and it is well worth a day or two. I'd like to return again once Akrotiri has re-opened to revisit the ruins there and maybe use it a a stopping off point for for Paros or one of the other the Cyclades islands.
The island is certainly very photogenic and I managed to take way too many pictures, here is just a selection of them:
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/359724/index.html
Having first visted Santorini 10 years ago, we didn't feel we needed to spend a week on this small island., so we booked 4 nights, plus a night on arrival, as the flight arrived too late for the ferry to Naxos. This was enough for us to re-visit anything we wanted and to spend a few days in more luxurious, up-market accommodation, without breaking the bank. Our hotel was in Imerovigli and about half an hour's walk down the hill brought us to the centre of Fira - and obviously back uphill on the way back! Both Imerovigli and Firostefani, which is in between, have their share of mainly up-market accommodation and restaurants, so it was not necessary to walk into Fira every night to eat and we found less expensive places on the side of town bordering the road, rather than the caldera.
Fira town is packed full of tourists of all nationalities, many of them day visitors from the visiting cruise ships. Cable cars or donkeys transport these visitors up from the port to tha main town on the top of the caldera. It is the main shopping centre with plenty of tacky tourist souvenirs and expensive (but equally tacky looking) gold shops and very expensive restaurants, especially those with caldera views. It is a unique place and worth seeing and the cathedral and museums are also worth a visit - but it is very touristy, busy and expensive. One thing I'd also say is that the island is not very suitable for anyone with walking difficulties, as there are many steps, hills and uneven cobbles. Some of the older cruise ship passengers really looked to be struggling, getting about the town.
It wasn't worth us hiring a car on Santorini, as all the busses start from Fira and are cheap and reasonably frequent. One of the highlights for us, was to walk from our hotel, all along the caldera to Oia which is about 5 miles. For all but a couple of hundred yards, the route runs on paths and tracks beside the caldera giving amazing views. Though much of the vegetation was already starting to dry up, in places the path was bordered by wild flowers and it must have been very colourful a month or so earlier. Oia seems to have grown a lot since our last visit (a little too much for my liking) and is certainly very touristy. There is some some very upmarket accommodation, shops and restaurants but the place, though undeniably very pretty, is almost too pristine and a little like a stage set. We didn't go back to Oia for the famous sunsets but saw some equally good ones from nearer our hotel - without the huge crowds and applause!
We very much enjoyed visiting Pyrgos, which we had remembered from our last visit to Santorini. In the years since then, this little hill town seems to have developed more into a tourist destination with tavernas and gift shops and even a very smart looking looking hotel. One thing we had remembered from our previous visit, that hadn't changed, was a little old man with his donkey, who asked for a few euros to have his picture taken! He was still in the little square where we remembered him from last time - but now had 2 donkeys! It is a pretty town to explore and is still very much lived in.
The ruins of Ancient Thera sit high on a hill on the headland between the black sand beach resorts of Perissa and Kamari. On our last visit we had walked up to it on the path from Perissa and had planned to do the same this time. We just missed the Perissa bus, so ended up getting the bus to Kamari instead, where a zig-zag road leads up the hillside. As the bus arrived in Kamari, we saw a sign saying that the site was only open until 2.30 - we also realised that the hill was much bigger than we remembered, at around 400 metres (we were 10 years younger then!). As it was already almost noon, we had visions of getting to the top just as it shut. When we were there last the site was completely open - now there is a gate and a small entrance fee of a couple of euros. As luck would have it, the bus stopped right outside a small tour office and the guy there greeted us, asking if we wanted to get the minibus to Ancient Thera that was due to go in 5 minutes! For 10 euros return, we were saved a long hot climb and had sufficient time to explore the ruins before they closed. The city was inhabited from 9thC BC and has remains from Hellenistic and Roman times. The site is worth a visit and has good views over Perissa and Kamari.
We were lucky enough to visit the 3600 year old ruins of Akrotiri when we visited Santorini 10 years ago. The Minoan town was buried by ash and pumice, preserving many of the buildings and excavations only started in 1967. I read somewhere that only something like 3% of the ruins have been excavated, so it is amazing to think what still might be found. The site is unfortunately still closed at the moment, after the accident 5 years ago where the protective roof collapsed, killing someone. There is no confirmation of when it will re-open, though someone told me it will be next year - though they have been saying that for the last few years now! Some of the finds and frescoes from this amazing site are now housed in the Museum of Prehistoric Thera in Fira town, which we found fascinating.
Would I return to Santorini? I know some people adore the island and others have been put off by the commercialism. It is one of those islands that is worth seeing, not because it is typically Greek but it is unique. Having been twice, we wouldn't return for a long stay - but it is a useful arrival point for some of the other Cyclades and it is well worth a day or two. I'd like to return again once Akrotiri has re-opened to revisit the ruins there and maybe use it a a stopping off point for for Paros or one of the other the Cyclades islands.
The island is certainly very photogenic and I managed to take way too many pictures, here is just a selection of them:
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/359724/index.html
Jun 24th, 2010, 01:07 AM
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Maria, I arrived on Santorini from Gatwick on May 11. I was visiting a friend in West Sussex just prior and was watching the flight cancellations around Europe a couple of days before flying to Greece. I also went to Pyrgos and took photos of the Greek man and his donkeys. My impressions of the island were similar to yours as I was on Santorini ten years ago (the same as you--we must be on the same wave length) and saw many more shops, restaurants, and cruise ships this time. I don't remember any cruise ships docking there ten years ago. (You can read my trip report by clicking on my name.) Sounds like you had a wonderful trip. Thanks for sharing your journal and wonderful photographs. Diane
Jun 24th, 2010, 05:41 AM
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Hi Diane, we arrived in Santorini on the same day as you! Then after one night, we moved on to Naxos before returning for our 4 night stay at the Pegasus Suites. It looks like you formed very much the same impressions as me. There is no doubt that Santorini is unique, beautiful and photogenic but it does not feel like "real Greece". A work colleague who returned this week from Santorini (who is also a big Greece fan) said exactly the same.
I would not wish to put anyone off visiting - as said before, it is worth seeing and is unique, but to be totally honest, I found Naxos to be much more to my taste. The combination of the two, very different, islands made a great contrast and in all, it was a fantastic holiday.
I would not wish to put anyone off visiting - as said before, it is worth seeing and is unique, but to be totally honest, I found Naxos to be much more to my taste. The combination of the two, very different, islands made a great contrast and in all, it was a fantastic holiday.
