Navigating northern Italy--the SILVER for GOLD TRIP

A DELIGHTFUL WEEK IN VENICE:
Our flight was a bit late and we decided to take the blue ATVO bus from the terminal into Piazzale Roma, and then the # 2 vaporetto to the San Zacchria stop near San Marco. We were running late to meet the rental agent and had a mad dash to the apartment—over 2 bridges with our luggage—big mistake.
Next time we will take the vaporetto to the San Marco Vallaresso stop. We did buy the weekly vaporetto pass for 50E each since we did expect to use the system extensively—and we did. Venice is still expensive !

Our apartment was a terrific location about 3 minutes walk to San Marco and at the end of the same canal as the Bridge of Sighs. The highlight was obvious. We had a balcony over the canal and a charming small bridge that got heavy gondola traffic---I was captivated watching the gondolas, especially, in the early evening sipping some vino and clicking my trusty camera. The apartment could have been bigger—especially the bathroom—but the price was not bad and the location was excellent. Here are some pics:
http://www.slowphotos.com/photo/showgallery.php?cat=4440

Now we had 6 more days to savor Venice, and we had no real agenda. This was our 4th trip to Venice—actually 5 for Susan who stopped there in 1958 with her Kappa sisters on their Europe sojourn of 10 weeks. So, we sought out some of the lesser Venice highlights that we had missed on prior trips. I will not bore you with our wanderings---any good guide book would be more help for you—but I will make some notable comments:
• My new favorite Venice church is Giovanni e Paolo in Castello
• Burano deserves half a day
• Try to ride the Grand Canal in full twice, for the architecture
• Plan to hang at these Campos: San Polo, Santo Stefano, Santa Margherita, Santa Maria Formosa, and San Giacomo dell Orio.
• Plan to drop 50E one nite in San Marco after dinner—with the bands.
• Ascend one or both of the Campaniles for great photo ops.
• Eat nocciola [hazelnut ] gelato at Gelateria Paolin often[ Santo Stefano]

I have never been a big fan of food in Venice and this trip was no exception. I will mention 2 places that deserve special note and are worth your time:

• Alla Rivetta---near the San Zaccaria church in Castello—60E for 2
• Taverna San Trovaso---near Accademia Gallery—lunch for 2 at 35E


THE MOUNTAIN JOURNEY: We got our car from Europcar [Kemwel] on a Saturday morning at Piazzale Roma and hit the road north. I had requested a mid-sized wagon and we got a BMW 320-d wagon. I was hoping for something bigger since we are not the lightest packers, but we did exercise the muscles and some basic geometry to squeeze it all in the car---albeit 2 small bags in the back seat. Nice car, but not as big as a Volvo or Ford wagon.
My advice is to be sure you have enough room for luggage and a station wagon will make a huge difference. We had planned a short leg the first day since we were not sure how long it might take to get the car and we wanted to experience the Dolomite drive with ample time to stop often. Paul had volunteered to be the designated driver.

Paul had volunteered to be the designated driver since he has driven sports cars for years and has been to the BMW driver’s school---some perfect credentials. You can probably guess who became the navigator, and the girls were basically tolerant in the back seat exercising their well developed vocal muscles and catching up on old times.

We got into Cortina at lunch time and quickly checked into our hotel. We had stayed here in 1999 as well—our 40th anniversary trip—and loved the central location. Our stay was not eventful except for a pageant in the local church across the street from the hotel—a musical drama about St. Francis. The next morning we hit the road to see the best of the stunning Dolomites, and the weather was perfect. Our first stop was at the Falzarego Pass where Paul and I took the Funivia Lagazuoi to get a spectacular vista of the eastern Dolomites. Our cameras were busy---see the photo gallery. After a snack in Arabba we continued over the Pordoi Pass and onto my favorite part of the Dolomites---the Sella Pass. It was a beautiful Sunday and the locals were out in full force, especially the paragliders and hikers. It was awesome.

http://www.slowphotos.com/photo/showgallery.php?cat=4441

We arrived in Ortisei mid-afternoon and eventually found our hotel—the Grones. I had read glowing reviews of this new hotel and was eager to find out for myself. What a gem ! It really is an oversized B&B that is virtually brand new with every modern amenity, including a large parking garage and a complete spa with pool. It is well run by the Grones family and they take it all very seriously. The major surprise was the food. We opted for the half-board plan and were treated to 5 course gourmet dinners. The chef is the son-in-law and he is good. It was off-season so we only paid 90E each, and that proved to be a bargain. We would have gladly paid 50E each for the dinner, another 10E for breakfast, leaving only 30E for the large room. And, the pool and parking were free. The only catch is finding the hotel on the hill overlooking the town. Not really bad, but get good directions. You will see the parking garage sign first as you approach the hotel. The walk into the village center is about :10 using the local escalator to navigate the hill.

We love Ortisei and have stayed here before. It makes the perfect base location for the Val Gardena and has a wealth of good hotel and food options.
We spent the next day exploring the area to include a stop in charming Castelrotto, a mandatory photo op at the St. Valentin church near Seis, and the cable car ride up to the famed Alpi di Siusi hiking area. No, we did not hike. We left that to our son and his family earlier in the summer. Do not miss this excellent trip report if you plan to spend time in the Val Gardena or plan to hike the Dolomites. They did it right—we are too old for the hiking.

http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/live-trip-report-from-the-dolomites-and-beyond-by-mrgo-msgo-daughter.cfm

TO THE ENGADINE VALLEY OF SWITZERLAND:

We took the scenic route from Ortisei to the charming village of Guarda in the Engadine valley. Check out your map, but we navigated via Merano, the medieval village of Glorenza, and the UNESCO St. Johan monastery at Mustair.
It was not the fastest route but certainly the most beautiful.

We arrived in Guarda at about 16:00 and easily found our hotel, the historic Hotel Meisser. Guarda is small village with a cluster of old farm houses all painted with lovely murals and every window with colorful flowers. I have never seen more beautiful flower boxes than I saw in this region, many of them featuring red geraniums [see gallery]. The hotel is the heart of the town and dates back to the 17th century and has been a hotel since 1893. The owner knew of our 50th anniversary and upgraded our rooms to suites in the annex that was a transformed old barn. The hotel is unique but the food was average.

We spent the next day exploring this part of the Engadine valley including the town of Scoul and a visit to here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tarasp_Castle
Most of the tourists to this region are hikers. We were the exception.

TO THE LAKES:

I am often asked about my favorite destinations in Italy and my reply has been the same for the past 25 years---THE LAKES. Of course, that includes a wide area that to me is really 3 destinations. This trip it meant the middle region of the 5 major lakes in northern Italy---Lago Lugano, and spectacular Lago Como.

We drove via St. Moritz down the west shore of Lago Como but our destination was one of our favorite small hotels from 25 years ago---Hotel Stella d’ Italia on the north shore or Lago Lugano. As we arrived, the entire Ortelli family were at the front desk---the parents are our age and the son is in his mid forties. They were kind enough to give us the same balcony view we had 25 years ago. This is the type of hotel we love most---family operated, small, and boasting some of the best food in the region. We were not disappointed and ate there both nights.

The next day we went shopping in Lugano, had an abortive drive up Mt. Bre, but ended with a most enjoyable ferry cruise of the entire lake. The highlight of the cruise was the wonderful village of Morcote with its hilltop cathedral.

Have I mentioned that we are now 2 weeks into our adventure and have yet to see even a cloudy day. The weather has been nearly perfect for our entire time---lows of 55 and highs of 75 and clear. It was a bit humid in Venice, but overall it has been spectacular. We thank all of our Fodorite and Slowtrav.com friends for your prayers. The weather was my major concern and it was perfect for 20 of our 21 days in Europe. It did rain the last day before we left.

We dropped our car on a Saturday morning at the Europcar office in Como and hired a taxi to take us to Bellagio—about a :50 drive on a tight road up the middle of the peninsula. It is not for the faint of heart. I prefer driving up the west shore to Cadenabbia and taking the car ferry to Bellagio.
A WEEK AT LAGO COMO:

A WEEK AT LAGO COMO:

It was no accident that we picked this destination for the final week of our anniversary trip---Lake Como is special. We had looked at 3 apartment options in Bellagio but settled on the Residence Ulivio located near the 5 star Hotel Villa Serbelloni and managed by them. Being able to use the hotel amenities was part of our rationale. It proved to be more than adequate and offered daily maid service as well. We had side-by side small apartments with a nice deck and view.

We spent a leisurely week in Bellagio---as per our game plan---but did manage to include these day trips around the lake. It was our 4th trip to Lake Como:

• A day trip to Varenna and the Villa Monastero gardens. Do not miss the surprising San Giorgio church.
• A day trip to Menaggio for lunch
• A day trip to Lenno and the nearby Villa Balbianello. Do not let them tell you the walk is easy—it is :30 and up and down hill. Take the boat.
• A day trip to the city of Como and the local museum---a pleasant day.
• A walk to the Villa Melzi gardens south of Bellagio.

http://www.slowphotos.com/photo/showgallery.php?cat=4442

I did manage to swim in the local indoor pool at the hotel and the girls managed to shop every corner of Bellagio—they are good at that. We also ate well in Bellagio. Here are our four favorite places—in rank order:

• Ristorante Bilacus—I had a wonderful veal dish.
• Trattoria San Giacomo—just across from Bilacus and less $$$
• Antico Pozzo—nice selection and reasonable
• Barchetta—this was a real surprise and worth a visit.

SUMMARY: Our goal was take our time and enjoy some of our favorite destinations in Italia---mission accomplished. Our time was made even more enjoyable by having long time friends with us to share the experience. But the greatest joy of all is being able to share my passion of travel in Italy with the love of my life. Susan makes it all worthwhile. She is always supportive, always smiling, seldom needs a pit stop, and is truly a joy to be around. We may be traveling less to Europe as we grow older but I know that wherever we end up I will have her by my side. I am the luckiest man in the world.

BOB THE NAVIGATOR

Bob; Sensational trip report. You/we have great partners. Mine sounds very similar to yours, but mine does need more 'pit stops'. However, I am the 2nd luckiest man in the world. Our 50th is next year and we are doing a Scandinavian tour with six other friends. Our first trip up north, but 31st to Europe. Enjoyed every word. Good Health to you both. Richard

awwwwww how sweet... both of you. I say my husband must be the 3rd luckiest man in the world. He's not here to argue the point at this moment.

Bob, great report. I went to Lago Como in September. I love Bellagio. Certainly will be going back.

I'm jealous! Some of my favorite places!

If you're familiar with Lalimonera in Bellagio, how would you say l'Ulivo compares? Thanks.

And thank you for the great report.

Sounds like a wonderful trip!

Jean, I have seen La Limonera but not inside so hard to compare. I believe we paid more, but the hotel amenities were a factor.

thanks for a great report and lovely pictures!

Bob, thanks for your wonderful report! Some of my favorite places - wish I could have been there! Thanks for the info about l'Ulivo.

I'm pleased that you enjoyed La Barchetta. We ate their twice last year,including a special birthday dinner. I'm saving your report for future travel to Lugano and the Dolomites. Thanks for such a detailed report.

Dang, that really is an outstanding vacation. Well done, Bob. Well done indeed.

Your 50th wedding anniversary will always be intertwined with the memories of your lovely trip to Italy! Thanks for sharing!

2010

you inspire me in so many ways. thanks.

Bookmarking. This is a must read since its from one of my fave Fodor's gurus.

Congrats on the Anniversary BTN!

Thanks anyway, Bob. I guess I'll have to go to Bellagio and do my own comparisons. Do you think hubs will consider that a good enough reason to go?

So this weekend we were just discussing where we should go this summer (the last summer before DD goes off to college) and of course it has to be Italy. We were discussing Venice, the Lakes and one other location - Dolomites? Switzerland? Croatia? Well, haven't been on the Europe forum for awhile(as we have been exploring other parts of the world) but opened it up today and saw your trip repoert!! I think it is fate!! Then on top of that to have the link to mr./mrs. go's report with their teen!! (BTW didn't know mr. go was your son!!)

Breezed through both reports and pictures - will digest more later. However, the fact that you've been 50 times (this will only be our 3rd) and the Lakes, Venice and Dolomites are your favorites - I think we need to go with that! DH was rooting for the Dolomites!! Anyway thanks again! We hope to go for 2 weeks in early July.

Great reading - and lovely photos as usual, Bob.

Steve

Bob, I so want to be like you when I grow up!!!

Now I must add Lake Como to my list as I absolutely adore your other destinations: Venice, Lugano and the Engadine!

Wow--you all flatter me. I have been blessed.

Topping by request

bookmarking

Topping for Linda

Don't know how I missed this one!! Thanks, Bob for another great trip report. You make us all want to go there.

And by the way, don't stop traveling. I'm guessing DH and I are older than you two and we're off to Italy again in June, and loving all your help and that of others on Fodor's.

Grazie TT,
We will beat you back to Italy for our 16th time. This time we are doing Naples and then a week in an apartment in Praiano. My back will hurt but who cares.

Your (and others) reports of the Piedmont are making me want to go there. It's still a toss up between that and the Dolomites this time, in the 10 days til we meet friends in the val d'Orcia.

I've only been to Italy about 5 times, and usually it's been southern Tuscany (with the addition of Venice, Milan, Rome,& Lake Como, which I dearly love) and now we'll have time to branch out.

Lago di Orta sure sounds great.

And yet, we still have to get to the Marche, and to the Dolomiti, and never been to the Amalfi coast.

sure hope our health remains good, so much wonderful to see and do and be in Italy.

Excellent shots, Bob. You had some cool curves going-especially one shot in Venice where the curve of the gondola melts into that of a nearby ponte!

And how wonderful to be able to get back and revisit. For our 30th we found the restaurant in Rome where we celebrated our 10th and they gave us the same meal (even though parts weren't on the menu anymore!)

Good Show!

Bumping for Valeria !

Dear Bobthenavigator! Congratulations on your wonderful times in Italy - it's surely worth it! And thank you for such helpful reports!

Hopefully, you could help us a little, too. We're two females who are to take a 9-day car trip July 23-31st from Munich - Garda Lake - Verona - Como Lake - Turin - Zurich -Munich. The musts for us are a bit of Garda, Verona, Come, Zurich. Enough tips here for Garda and Como, but we've got a huge problem with a stay in Verona - still haven't booked anything and are looking for smth inexpensive. We plan on going to the Opera on Sat. So, the Qs are:

- would you recommend a reasonably priced place to stay in the center of Verona. Do you know anything about tickets for the Opera, if it's important to prebook them or OK to buy on a day of a performance? Do we even need to stay in Verona to see it? Maybe an agriturismo nearby could do it..

- would you pls give us any tips for the a/m route, meaning that we still didn't find out if it's reasonable to make it in 9 days, which little towns and places of interests we shall visit on our way etc..

- if you know someone else who can help us with Verona in case you can't, pls let us know.

With thanks in advance, Tanya

Hello Tanya, I hope you mean 2011, but I suspect not. You are likely too late for centro hotels or Opera tickets for this year. The operas run to past midnite so you want to stay locally--here is where I would stay for a 3 star:
http://www.giuliettaeromeo.com/index.cfm?lang=en

On a broader issue, you do not have time for all of that. I would drop Turin and Zurich from the end and drive back to MUnich from Como via the Engadine valley and Landeck. I would plan on 3 destinations in that time. Good luck !

Thank you for your reply, Bob! Yes, it is this year, in 5 days we are to leave! As you suggest, we might drop Turin, but Zurich is where we have to visit some friends, so we plan to leave Verona on Mon afternoon to reach Zurich via Como Lake by Friday evening.

Your recommendation is highly appreciated but their prices for the season are quite high. We'll have to look for a B&B, not a hotel. Do you think it's worth posting such question on forum here?

Just stumbled across this, Bob. What a fabulous trip - thanks for sharing it with us.

topping by request for Ken

Another late reader here but do want to let you know, btn, how much I appreciate your reports and other info italy. Still pining to go to Lake Como, especially reading your report, and hoping I can convince my husband likewise.

So glad this report came to the top. We too are lovers of Lake Como and I regret that we won't get to see it on our upcoming trip to Venice in a few days.

Love your photos. The flowers are so beautiful. The one regret I have about seeing Venice off season is that I imagine that most of the flowers will be gone. I have a question about one of your photos in Venice, the 20th in the Venice series labeled Happy Gondolier. Do you recall if that is the Trattoria Sempione to the right of the photo? If that is accurate I think I shot one of my favorite photos from that bridge looking at the restaurant a few years ago. I've always wanted to go back and try it. Have you ever dined there? The reviews are pretty good but I will confess that authentic Venetian food just isn't my favorite.

Now I'm off to find that photo. Thank you for the wonderful report.

Grazie quinnsmon,
Yes, I do think that is the Sempione location. We have not eaten there but our son loves it---you may know him as Mr Go on this forum.

The food is decent (if not necessarily spectacular) at Trattoria Sempione, but the atmosphere is really nice there.

Here's a photo of the place that I took over 19 years ago...

http://travel.webshots.com/photo/1199890871053249937MNVxhW

Okay, here my key questions:

1) How did I miss this thread when Sir Bob first posted it?

2) Why did Bob & Mrs. Navigator marry when he was 15 years oldand she was 8 years old?

3) What was Mr_Go doing with a camera in Venice when he was a little boy of 5???

Geez, why not just call yourselves The Precocious Family?

Bob, wonderful report, and now I understand how easy it was for Mr_Go to cultivate such a deep and abiding love for Ms_Go, whom he referred to yesterday as his "little desert flower". Y'all are so romantic, I'm almost swooning out of admiration!

BC

Actually, bookie, I just misspelled "dessert flour". Cuz she's so sweet & everything.

Kidding aside, that shot was taken on my very first European holiday in 1991... when I was just a lad of 28 years. Seems like only yesterday.

I love your photo better than mine Mr. Go! We're going to try Trattoria Sempione if at all possible but I'm guessing the windows will be closed. ;(

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b252/Red11111/IMG_2734-1.jpg

Topping for Brenda !

Just wanted to tell you how much I loved the report! Gives me lots of ideas for my trip... just wish I could squeeze Lake Como in now too!

Mille grazie !
Plan 3 trips in advance---you will return.

My wife and I are quite a bit younger but love to travel, Italy being our favorite. Our daughter is just over 2 years old and has been to Italy twice already. I didn't even have a passport until my early 20's! All of our trips to Italy (even before the baby) have been centrally located. We need to break out of our "rut" (good problem to have, I admit) and see other parts of the country. This report will serve as a GREAT primer for a trip up north.

Topping by request.

Inspiring report! Also appreciated your advice to the honeymoon in 2012 couple. We're halfway between the 2. Planning a 25th anniversary trip to Italy for November. Will be DH's first time in Italy. Thanks again!

Very interesting trip report!