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Naples/Sorrento/Amalfi coast at Christmas? check this itinerary please?

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Naples/Sorrento/Amalfi coast at Christmas? check this itinerary please?

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Old Aug 5th, 2006, 02:34 AM
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Naples/Sorrento/Amalfi coast at Christmas? check this itinerary please?

We are thinking of flying into Rome on the 22nd or 23rd, taking the train to Naples, spending a few days in Naples/Sorrento/Amalfi coast (these few days would include Christmas) then train back to Rome on the 26th or 27th and stay until New Years Day or the 2nd.

Rates on the Amalfi coast for the places that are open are very high for Christmas, so I'm guessing that we wouldn't be the only ones there. Anyone have any experience in this area at Christmas time?

I've heard someone say that there was "no magic at christmas" in Naples, but I am getting the impression that there is really no "magic" to be had in Naples at any time of year, that it's a dirty, gritty city that, while interesting with it's own distinct personality, is a bit rough around the edges and they like it that way.

I would like to see the archaeological museum in Naples; Pompeii, some scenery-enjoying (bus? boat?) and if possible the blue grotto on the Isle of Capri. Maybe go to the top of Mt. Vesuvius? Obviously, I know we are not going to be doing anything beachy and that things will probably not be exactly "green" but I'm hoping we could make this a nice trip anyway.

Does anyone see any glaring holes in this (very sketchy) plan?

Friday 22 Dec:
fly to Rome Ciampino, arrive 8:30 a.m.
shuttle to Termini station
Train to Naples. Store luggage.
Visit Archaeological museum
Pick up luggage, train to Sorrento
Spend night in Sorrento

Saturday 23 Dec:
Day trip to Pompeii
Mt. Vesuvius

Sunday 24 Dec:
Stuff on Amalfi coast.
Sounds like there's fireworks and lights and stuff (http://www.giracostiera.com/eng/amal...ti_amalfi.html) in Amalfi and Atrani)

Monday 25 Dec (Christmas day)
Assuming there won't be much open.
Amuse ourselves, sleep late, ride buses, look at nativity scenes, figure something out.

Tuesday 26 December
Day trip to Capri. I know this is weather dependent so if we have nice weather on the "Pompeii" day we could opt instead to go to Capri.

Wednesday 27 December
Travel back to Rome, check into a hotel there

Thursday-Saturday 28-30 Dec. do typical Rome stuff

Sunday 31 Dec. Do Rome New Years Eve-y stuff

Monday 1 Jan. sleep as late as possible, (possibly beg hotel owners in advance), piddle around and catch an 8:30 pm flight back to Brussels.

Input appreciated!
Carrie
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Old Aug 5th, 2006, 03:24 AM
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It's not the best time of year to visit the Amalfi Coast. Many places are closed; others, including ferries to Capri, are on a reduced winter-hours schedule. Maybe you should reconsider this part of the trip and go to Rome and Florence or Venice instead?
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Old Aug 5th, 2006, 04:20 AM
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Would buses be running on Christmas Day?
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Old Aug 5th, 2006, 04:20 AM
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Thanks for your input, but we've already been to Venice, and I'm not all that excited about Florence. If Naples/Amalfi doesn't work out we could sub Florence I suppose.

Are there any things in particular on my itinerary/wish list that you do not believe we will be able to do because something is closed?

Carrie
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Old Aug 5th, 2006, 04:27 AM
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According to this hotel website http://www.ondaverde.it/sitai.htm holidays are on the same schedules as Sundays re: the bus.

I have never heard of public transportation being unavailable on a holiday (strikes etc excluded)
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Old Aug 5th, 2006, 04:36 AM
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ira
 
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Hi LSU,

Other than that you are going out of season, I see no problems with your plan.

Give Naples a chance. It's chaotic. It needs a cleaning, but beneath the grime is some very good architecture.

I found it to be more distinctly Italian than the cities farther North.

They even speak differently,eg, Sansevero is Chan che VerrrrO not
SAN severo.

Do try to see the Veiled Crisst at the Capella Sansevero.

Have you considered spending one or two nights in Naples?

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Old Aug 5th, 2006, 06:10 AM
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Hi Ira:

Haven't considered staying in Naples, but would be willing to consider it....

We are usually most interested in soaking up local culture, listening to music, trying local dishes/wine/etc, getting a feel for what it's like to live in a place. The occasional church or museum or castle or whatever is fine as long as it's unique and interesting. We also like seeing things that you can't see anywhere else. Like Pompeii, I would never say in a million years that we "are interested in ancient history" but there are only so many 2000 year old cities that were buried under a volcano and preserved almost intact!

So tell me, what makes Naples Naples? Why do people who live there want to stay there? Would love to learn more.

Carrie
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Old Aug 5th, 2006, 08:06 AM
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I've been to Naples when they are getting ready for Christmas and it is lively and festive.

There is a whole area of town that is really wonderful at that time of year, they have chrech scenes and the wonderful smells of spices, etc. I hope these urls come out but if not, just google creche and Naples. Naples and Sorrento are more or less working towns so of course the locals will be having Christmas festivities. In Sorrento there are strolling musicians and minstrals who come out of the back country only during the Christmas season to play music on a goat skin bag kind of like a bagpipe. They go up and down the streets and into shops for donations.

It is a wonderful area to be at Christmas after all the locals are mostly Catholic and it is a big time for them.

Positano was pretty quiet but some places were still open. Amalfi is another working town with the locals celebrating their holidays and yes there are fireworks. If the buses aren't running hire a taxi to take you down the coast they are standing on Tasso Square in Sorrento year around.

http://www.op.net/~bocassoc/Issue6/article3.htm

http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpag...51C1A967958260
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Old Aug 5th, 2006, 08:24 AM
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I think this sounds great. I agree with Ira that you should consider some time in Naples, perhaps if that day trip to Capri doesn't pan out. I would stay in Sorrento rather than in one of the smaller towns on the coast as there will be more restaurants and shops open and more transportation options.

I responded to your other post about arriving in Rome and hoping to catch the last train to Naples the same night. But I guess you're now arriving in the morning...? Better plan.
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Old Aug 5th, 2006, 08:44 AM
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Hi carrie,

>So tell me, what makes Naples Naples? Why do people who live there want to stay there?<

They can't afford to leave?

>Would love to learn more.

See http://www.itwg.com/city13?CRS=ITWG&...03c3e6bd7e4ad8

It also has sites for hotels.

Also check out www.albergosansevero.it/

Also go see any Loren/Mastroianni movie, especilly the portion "Adelina-Naples" in "Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow".

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Old Aug 5th, 2006, 08:49 AM
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You need to be aware that you may well not be able to get to see the Blue Grotto.

If the weather is bad (most likely in winter) the feries don;t run at all.
I don;t know the number of days this happens - and obviously it would vary by year - but not only is it unlikely you could get into the grotto (possible only when the sea is calm) but the ferries to and fro Capri might not run at all. So - you might never get there - or you might get there and not be able to get back (short-term of course).

The Amalfi Coast is so beautiful in spring, summer and early fall - why go in the middle of winter and miss so much?
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Old Aug 5th, 2006, 08:54 AM
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The denizens of Naples dont want to leave! Whether they could afford it or not. They would leave for work and for visits but not much else. They are fiercly proud of their heritage and their part of Italy, in fact they are Neopolitans first and Italians second.

I agree, stay in Sorrento and Naples and you will really get the flavor of the Southern spirit.
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Old Aug 5th, 2006, 09:00 AM
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LSU-I would seriously consider staying in Naples-because this is where Northern Italians go to get an authentic sense of what's it like to be "molto Italiano" and for that reason they come to get just that sense themselves. The Neapolitani are "brioso" full of life, exuberant, their dialect very colorful and full of expression-they are, for the most part, incredibly friendly and willing to help out strangers-they do love their city very much.

The thing is, too many people "fight" against the reality of Naples, instead of just moving with it and going with the flow-the Vespas, the purse-snatchers, the grand expressions, the chaotic traffic, the poverty, the noise, the smells, interspersed with relics of ancient history, and oases of charm and great elegance-all mixed up against this backdrop of loveliness-the Golf of Naples with Mt. Vesuvius/Pompeii in the background-a reminder to people of how fleeting life can be, and how important it is to experience life, and to live it in the moment- a concept that I think Neapolitans understand very well.

If you want to go to the archeological museum, you might want to look at this hotel that is very near there, is good value and has a terrific rooftop terrace that overlooks the botanical gardens and Mt. Vesuvius-Hotel del Real Orto Botanico-located about 20 minutes walk from the city center, in a real neighborhood of great local restaurants, 5 min. from the museum.

If you give yourself a chance, you might really be taken with this city, you certainly can't be indifferent to it-it won't let you do that.

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Old Aug 5th, 2006, 09:23 AM
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Girlspytravel, what a lovely way to put to word the experience of Naples, I wholly agree.
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Old Aug 5th, 2006, 09:43 AM
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Thanks, Sea Urchin. As I'm sure you know, there is just something about that city that calls you....
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Old Aug 7th, 2006, 02:34 PM
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LSUvetgirl-
I have spent Christmas in Napoli/Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast and can say that it was one of the most unforgettable times of my several visits.
The hand carved "cribs" (Creche scenes) created by the artisans of Napoli are world-famous for their lifelike details, and passionate sensitivity of expression. There is an awe-inspring one in Sorrento (one among many).
Though the tradition of shepherds coming into the cities and towns to play bagpipes takes place all over Italy (I saw in in Rome the first time), it is extraordinary around Naples.

Piazza Tasso in Sorrento is decorated with a giant tree which as I remember was covered with lights and flowers.

The Galleria in Naples also has a tree which is decorated with hundreds of little pieces of paper inscribed with personal wishes. Some of The clothing stores are filled with red lingerie to observe the tradition if wearing red undergarment (or clothes) for good luck.

And the pastries......oooh.

If you are alert, I think you'll also see Babbo Natale lurking around some corner....

I also went for a hike above Positano and was happy to see some flowers in bloom even in December!

I can' t imagine anyone thinking there is no magic at Christmas in Naples!!

Enjoy your trip!
 
Old Aug 7th, 2006, 06:35 PM
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We are going to fly into Rome in October stay two days, on to Sorrento for a week and then to Naples and return home. I have a friend here in the states who is from the Sorrento area waiting for a transplant. He is very concerned about me and my husband being in Naples. He went to school there and says it has changed and crime is a major problem. He has advised me against going there, but it really made the most sense travel wise and in making flight arrangements. He wants us to go to our hotel and stay in it and not come out until the next morning when we catch the taxi to the airport.
Well he knows me better then that. He has warned me not to speak to anyone on the street, that they have all sorts of way to scam you and to just keep to ourselves and stay safe. He says Sorrento is absolutely safe as is the coast, Positano and surrounding areas.
 
Old Aug 26th, 2006, 10:12 AM
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Naples is Christmas for many Italians who flock to the see the nativity scene workshops
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Old Aug 26th, 2006, 10:22 AM
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Not only Italians. The Met is New York has special Neapolitan Christmas tree and creche that they displeay every year. Exquisite!
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Old Aug 28th, 2006, 11:22 PM
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The cribs and figures make good presents and are a good reminder of bella Napoli at Christmas
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