Europe Forums

Start a new topic Change Forum
Advanced search

Trip Report Naples report - including staying in the centro storico

Jump to last reply

I’d posted a question earlier about which neighborhood to stay in at Naples. Just to report back that we spent 10 days in Naples in early October in the centro storico and loved it. Yes, it’s chaotic and you need some tolerance for grime. On the other hand, it’s not been Disneyfied or Prada-ized like so many historical centres that cater primarily to tourists. There are still streets that specialize in presepi (amazing nativity scenes), and grandmothers that pull up a chair at the street corner to watch the action. And all that you have to do is to look up above street level and you see amazing Baroque splendor (often decaying, but that is attractive in its own way). We also walked around the other neighborhoods we considered staying in (Vomero and Chiaia) and were glad that we decided to stay in a more central location.

Staying in Naples also worked very well for our day trips to Pompeii, Herculaneum (both fabulous - go to the Naples Archaeological Museum first if possible so you can better imagine what the villas contained) and Capri (now a tourist trap, even if it’s a beautiful tourist trap; if you’re going to the Amalfi Coast and are going to do some hiking there, there’s no reason to go to Capri). If you have time, we’d also recommend something we hadn’t heard of before: Walking through a Roman tunnel under a hill in Posillipo (on the outskirts of Naples) to the Roman ruins of Villa Pausilypon - we were the only ones there.

We had an outstanding meal btw at the Ristorantino dell’Avocato restaurant near the waterfront - local clientele, charming proprietors (we went for lunch, but you need reservations for dinner). We still fantasize about their eggplant parmigiana. Fish and wine were excellent as well. And just off the Piazza Bellini, there’s Un Sorisso Integrale, an excellent and inexpensive vegan restaurant - we’re not vegetarian, but it was SO refreshing to encounter vegetables being featured at an Italian meal.

I recognize that staying in Naples is not for everyone, and that those who want a more ordered European experience may choose to stay elsewhere and just visit the Archaeological Museum, Capodimonte museum, etc. But I think you’d be missing a terrific, authentic experience. (If you take the mindset that you’re in a developing country or in the medieval era, that may help! And we didn’t have any problems with crime or see any, for those worried.) It also helped that we found a wonderful modern apartment on airbnb right off Spaccanapoli - www.airbnb.com/rooms/635477 , so it was a good refuge from the action on the streets.

21 Replies |Back to top

| Add a Reply

Sign in to comment.

Recent Activity

  • Announcement:
  • Fodor's Go List 2015 Has Been Announced
    by Emily_D Fodor's Editor | Posted on Dec 19, 14 at 05:08 PM
View all Europe activity »
  1. 1 Spain/EU trip in february "History,Nature is our main goal"
  2. 2 Best Area to Stay in Amsterdam
  3. 3 Trip Report Finally in Italy for the holidays - installment report
  4. 4 For those interested in visiting WW I sites in France
  5. 5 A month in Europe - how does this sound?
  6. 6 All Set To Go!!
  7. 7 Hotels in Toulouse & Montpellier
  8. 8 VAT refund Q--new carryon bag ??
  9. 9 Tripadvisor fined in Italy over fake reviews
  10. 10 Renfe planning strike December 26th
  11. 11 Ireland, Honeymoon, early June 2015, active couple
  12. 12 22 year olds in Europe
  13. 13 Earthquakes in Tuscany
  14. 14 Granada
  15. 15 Tour Guide in Budapest
  16. 16 Caserta, Italy? Anyone Been There?
  17. 17 Istanbul Bosphorus Tour
  18. 18 Early stages of planning for Euro trip + would love suggestions
  19. 19 Rome bus tours-which one?
  20. 20 Coffee in Naples
  21. 21 Trip Report A Sardinia trip report
  22. 22 First time Ireland trip
  23. 23 Trip Report Truffles, Tajarin & Turin…Two weeks in the Piemonte Region of Italy
  24. 24 Favorite place for morning espresso or cappucino in Venice
  25. 25 Trip Report Spain and Portugal in Depth
View next 25 » Back to the top