Hi Fodorites! We have used this site before and have had lots of success with our trips. We (meaning hubby and I) are planning a trip to Italy for our 50th birthday. We have seen Rome, Tuscany, Florence, Venice so now we would like to see the Almalfi Coast. My thoughts are as follows and our dates are flexible:
Plans are to go mid-late September although we are very flexible with dates.
Fly out of Naples - stay here for 3 nights
Onward to Positano - thinking private driver from Naples and staying here 4 nights
Take ferry to Capri - hopefully 3 nights here
Ferry back to Naples - fly home that day or stay overnight and fly back next day
1st question: We would like to visit Pompeii, Herculeum and maybe Ravello. Is it easiest to do from Naples or Positano? Should I take a night from Naples and add it to Positano or Capri instead?
2nd question: Places to stay? I know I could do a search on this site but are there any places that we absolutely should not miss? We would love romantic and quaint places to stay with terraces overlooking the sea. It's been 6 years since we have been wanting to go back so trying to make this vacation extra special without breaking the bank!
3rd question: Is a private driver worth doing to Positano. I'm assuming it's easiest to just fly into Naples rather than Rome. Is this correct?
4th question: Oh, and where else should we not miss? ![]()
Millie Grazie!
Naples, Positano, Capri...and then some for 10 days?
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Not overlooking the sea, but with a nice terrace, and quiet even though in the middle of the old town: http://www.fodors.com/news/story_5369.html
We really liked it, but the web site is misleading. There is no view of the sea.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca/sets/72157627058744325/show/with/5932332955/
Happy birthdays! To respond, it would help to know more about your interests.
To answer your Q3 we used this car service and were very happy with the service http://www.cuomonet.it/
ladyYogi - depending on your flight times, i might be inclined to put the Naples section at the end, so you as close to the airport for the flight home - it saves wasting a day at the end of the trip, especially as traveling to your first destination can be a good way of using up the first day when jetlag may make you unwilling to both which much serious sight-seeing.
that would give you an extra night to play with.
Thank you everyone! I think we will take your advice annhig and do Naples at end of trip. Unless you think we should avoid Naples altogether.

Jamikins - I sent email to car service to check rates.
kja - we love to explore all areas, hike, visit the ancient ruins, would like to visit beach, and eat and drink wine!
Michael - thank you for suggestion but I really, really would love a room with terrace if possible.
Planning this trip is exhausting!
Our room had a terrace, but no sea view. We had breakfast (mini-Continental) at the table you see on the second or third picture of the B&B.
Sorry, meant to say sea view. I'm wondering if we should consider an apartment instead for our time in Positano.
nooo, don't avoid Naples - you must have wanted to see it as it is one of the main parts of your trip.
there are several recent threads about Naples - search this forum and the threads should come up.
re having an apartment, you can find them for 4 nights but 7 is more common. If you can find one that ticks all your boxes [eg a balcony/terrace and sea view] why not? you don't HAVE to eat in at all - on our last trip to Rome we rented an apartment but never ate in at all, not even breakfast. but it was nice to have the extra space and to be able to make tea, coffee etc, when we wanted.
LadyYogi - there is another thread going about visiting the area around Naples.
someone there recommends this hotel in Sorrento:
http://www.hotelcorallosorrento.com/
looks nice, has rooms with a view, and Sorrento makes a great base for exploring the whole area.
Good gracious no - stay in Naples for three nights as planned!
Pompeii and Herculeum are easiest to visit from Naples (via train), BTW, do you really want to do both? Ravello is easist from Positano (via bus).
FWIW, I think 2 nights in Capri is plenty. It's quite small.
YES - Fly into Naples. It cost just a little more than flying into Rome (and saves the considerable time/expense of getting from Rome to Positano).
In Naples, you DON'T want a sea view as the better area to be is in the historic center - a bit back fro the Naples waterfront. I strongly suggest THIS place - nice, PERFECTLY located and very well priced (saving you money for Capri where hotels are MUCH pricier). Enormous rooms in a converted 1600's pallazzo. http://www.decumani.com/en/
In Capri, we loved this place. Gorgeous rooms, enormous terraces with sea view and much better prices (about half) than the hotels right in Capri town - though town (village?) center is less than a 5-minute walk. It's STILL expensive though, especially compared to Positano and Naples, but in Capri it is what it is ($$$). http://www.laminervacapri.com/
Cannot comment on Positano hotels as we stayed in Amalfi but I suspect it will be easy to find terrace and sea-view hotels as the whole town is on a cliff-side facing the sea..
Thank you annhig and bardo! Bardo - the Decumani looks great and I am definitely considering it. LOVE, LOVE la Minerva and I am trying to come up with a way we can stay there. So, now I am thinking of staying in Almalfi instead of Positano after reading some posts that Positano is very crowded even in September. Is it just as easy to get to Capri from Positano?
You can easily get a direct boat to/from Capri from many places. Look here: http://www.capritourism.com/en/timetable-and-prices
We loved our hotel in Positano. It is called Hotel Marincanto. We had a wonderful seaview room. The hotel has an amazing infiniti pool that looks like it drops into the sea and this hotel even has it's own private beach. It was our favorite part of our European trip. I believe it was only 210 Euro per night, but if you pay in cash they give you a little discount.
We spent three weeks in Naples and the AC in June. Our third or fourth visit, can't remember! Anyway, some thoughts...
We stayed on the waterfront in Naples at the Hotel Exelsior, and were very glad we did. It's a longish walk to the historic center from there, but I really enjoyed returning to a room with a terrace overlooking both the castle and harbor after a day of sightseeing. And it was much quieter/less congested in that area than it was in the historic center.
In Positano, we always stay at the Hotel Poseidon, a small family-run hotel just uphill from Le Sirenuse. You get much better views when you are father up from town, and it keeps you away from the crowds and noise. Yes, Positano will be busy in September, but if you can escape to a nice room with a beautiful view over town and the water, it won't matter.
This time we stayed in the FUNNY SUITE, which is on the top floor of the hotel. The room has a small bedroom, small living room with five tiny steps that connect to a HUGE terrace with a sweeping view of Positano. The terrace ran about half the length of the hotel. It really made our stay.
I will admit that I'm not an Amalfi fan. I don't think Amalfi can match the views and ambience of Positano, especially at night after most of the tourists have left. And during the day it's possible to escape the crowds by spending your time slightly out of town at FORNILLO BEACH rather than the town beach which is wall to wall people. Fornillo is an easy walk from town along a seaside path that starts at the hotel in back of the town pier. ( I am temporarily forgetting the name)
About transportation to Capri: Yes, you can USUALLY get to Capri from Positano, but you should be aware that some days the boats may be cancelled due rough water. And this can happen even on a gorgeous, sunny day. This happens less often in Sorrento.
Finally, if you decide to use a driver, I can highly recommend tourofitaly.com. We have used the Gargiulos-father and son- for many years, and highly recommend them for transfers and tours of the coast.
One more thought... There is a fast train that runs both ways between Naples and Rome. It only takes about 90 minutes. So if you want to spend a day or two in Rome and go home from there, this would make sense. Or if you want to land in Rome and take the train down to Naples from there, you can also do it this way. Good luck!
We loved Naples. We liked it so much we never left the city to do any day trips as we had planned. Spent 4 nights in Naples upon arrival at the Albergo Palazzo Decumani (http://www.palazzodecumani.com) and loved the hotel & its location in the historic center. Returned for a couple nights at the end our our trip and stayed at a small B&B, Orsini 46
http://www.orsini46.it. This was located right near the waterfront and I much preferred the location in the Historic Center.
The beginning our our TR is about Naples http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/venturing-into-southern-italy-a-short-tr.cfm
Hello again, still trying to plan our trip to the Almalfi region. Also still trying to decide whether to fly into Naples or Rome. We are lucky that we have frequent flyer miles on United and noticed we would have to connect into Munich if we decide to take a flight to Naples. I guess my concern there is missing the connecting flights or lost luggage. We can take a direct flight into Rome, but then would have to take a train to Naples. Can someone tell me whether you have to leave the Rome airport for the train and would we have to take a taxi to the train station from the airport?
Last time we went to Italy we flew directly into Rome but we also stayed in that region so we flew home from Rome as well. This trip we plan on staying in Almalfi region.
After reading the forums, we decided to stay a few nights on Naples so that we can also visit Pompeii probably toward the end of our trip.
I really just want to book these flights so that we can then decide on hotels.
Fly into Naples. You won't miss your connection (how long it the layover BTW?)
You cannot take a train from FCO to Naples, you would have to take a commuter train from FCO into Rome center city and then transfer to a different train to continue on to Naples. And then the REVERSE of all that for trip home.
Flying with a connection in Munich, is quicker, cheaper, and easier. Make it easy for yourself and don't worry about some hypothetical glitch that in all likelihood won't come up.
I only say this because I think you deserve an opposing point of view. Me, I don't like Naples.
IMO, and it's only mine I know, it is dirty and rough. The above ground air tanks are unattractive. If there are charming shopping areas, I didn't find them. If you have a thing for cheap underwear shops, Napoli is your city.
I did like the Archeological Museum very much, but even that was poorly maintained. The corruption that affected the city for so long seems to me to have taken its toll on the streets, the people and the institutions.
I've been to Italy several times, and worked for a company based there for a few years. I just don't put Naples very high on my list of places to visit in Italy.
One suggestion would be to base in one place your entire time and do day trips. That place would be Sorrento. It is central to all the places you list. In many places doing day trips involves a lot of backtracking and boring time traveling, but in that region the 'getting there' is half the fun. So I don't consider it a chore, or a negative. If you stay in one place you don't have to pack/unpack, etc. You also have the flexibility to spend more or less time in each place. For example you wonder if you should spend three days in Naples. Some people love it, some hate it. If you book three nights there you are committed. If you do it as a day trip from Sorrento and you hate it, then don't back another day, spend more time elsewhere. But if you love it you can do it a second or even third daytrip. You can get there either by train or boat from Sorrento. Pompeii is a half hour. You can also mix things up a bit - one day in the city, the next on Capri, the next stay put in Sorrento, etc. Also, although the weather should be fine at that time of year, if you did get a rainy day you can spend that one in Naples and save the other areas that are more dependent on sun for a good time for the sunny days.
It's also more convenient in the sense that you take a train from Naples and then when you visit Positano, etc you don't have luggage and can just take the boat or bus and not bother with drivers.
I know I sound like an advertisement for Sorrento, but we spent 8 days there and visited all the places you mentioned and had a great time. Here's my trip report: http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/amalfi-coast-rome-and-croatia-images-of-three-hot-but-wonderful-weeks.cfm
In terms of flying into Naples versus Rome - unless you can do it without a lot of changes and added expense I'd just fly into Rome. When we looked at the options it just didn't seem worth the added expense to fly to Naples over Rome since we'd have an extra flight and it wouldn't save any time in the end anyway. Depends on your flight options but don't assume one way will be quicker/cheaper than the other.
I loved Naples - so vibrant and alive, even if it is a bit dirty and gritty! And so perfect for a short stay, just in case it isn't your style!
Isn't it wonderful that we all travel for different reasons and treasure different things? Vive la difference!
Thank you all. The flights as far price is not a problem this time since we do have enough frequent flyer miles to get to Naples and return. I live right outside of NY city and frequent it often and love it, however some people you ask may have no desire to visit NY or if they did they might not want to go back. I did love Rome when we were there so if Naples is similar to Rome I think I would like it. Besides, I have lineage from Naples so thought it be cool to visit. How many days is another question.

Isabel - I'm thinking about your idea of staying in Sorrento. I just thought Positano would be special and romantic since my husband and I are both celebrating our 50th birthdays. However, if its easier to get around in Sorrento and if it just as beautiful as Positano that may sway me. I would like to visit Ravello as well since I heard good things. By the way, your pictures were all beautiful!
I'm thinking more and more to just fly into Naples.
So anyone else have their opinions of whether to stay in Sorrento or Positano? Also, more thoughts on Naples would be appreciated.
Millie Grazie!
If you want to enjoy the Amalfi Coast stay in Positano. It's got beautiful views and can be very romantic. Don't miss a visit to Ravello -- it's fabulous.
Naples is a bit girtty, but not horribly so. I avoided it for years and finally started reading and hearing such good things about it, figured give it a chance. As someone said, try it for a few days.
It's aways preferred to have a direct flight when possible. We flew thru Frankfurt to Naples both ways. had relatively short connection times and made them both with no problem at all. Munich is an even easier airport to navigate. I think it will be much easier to just do the flight to Naples with a stop then the train scenario which sounds like a pain esp after an overnight flight.
I didn't like Naples at all. Not an attractive city at all. That is just my opinion.
I think we have decided to go with our first choice and stay in Positano.
To visit Ravello, would we have to take a train? Just not sure of best way to get around.
U can take a bus from Amalfi. To get to Amalfi there are ferries u can take. Check with your hotel on times.
Hi LadyYogi, there is no train up to Ravello. If you haven't got a car then you can take the bus. Amalfi is the terminus for buses so you would probably have to take the ferry from Positano to Amalfi and then get the bus up from there. The regional bus line is called sita so check this website for the schedule: www.sitabus.it
We were just there in October and Ravello is just lovely. Get there early if you can before the crowds arrive. We stayed at an agriturismo in Minori and you could see Ravello up above us and our landlord said they call it the "balcony of the world". You'll see why if you go to the Villa Cimbrone and see the view from the gardens there. Magical.
Also I would recommend flying through Naples rather than Rome and then bothering with the train etc to get to Naples. We had to connect through Munich and it was no problem.
We had three nights in Naples at the Hotel Piazza Bellini which we loved, right in the historical centre and a few minutes walk from the Archaelogical museum. www.hotelpiazzabellini
We spent most of a day in the museum with a break for lunch and really enjoyed it. I agree with tuscanlifeedit that it was somewhat poorly maintained, you can see that all over Naples, that the money just hasn't been put into maintaining things, but it is still a beautiful museum, well worth seeing. And best of all, it wasn't crowded with other tourists!
Naples is gritty but it pulses with life and atmosphere. It is not like Rome at all, it really has it's own flavour.
We had a day with a local woman guide which was fantastic, she spent over six hours with us, taking us through the historical centre in and out of churches and underground ruins, interesting little streets, she was just full of historical information and best of all love and passion for her city. Her name is Marina de Martino and you can find her here: www.napolinostressitinerari.com
I'd have to say Naples isn't my favourite city in Italy but I'm really glad we went.
Have a great trip!
Thank you!!
raincitygirl - Villa Cimbrone looks wonderful! I like your idea of the tour guide in Naples so will look into that as well.
How long were you in Italy? We were planning 10 days and seeing Positano, Capri, Naples plus Ravello and some other areas if we can. We just do not want to spend all our time traveling on buses and trains.
My husband and I had 13 nights: 3 nights, Naples, 5 nights Minori in the agriturismo and 5 nights in Sorrento in the hotel Mediterraneo with a view of the Bay of Naples and Vesuvius...it was divine. www.mediterraneosorrento.com/
But I was in Florence and then a week at a cooking school in Tuscany with friends before that.
You should have a very good trip with 10 days and to minimize the travelling around on buses and trains definitely fly into Naples instead of Rome. And I like your idea upthread to take the car and driver to Positano. Positano is lovely, just be aware that it is perched on a very steep hill so be prepared for lots of climbing every day. And the whole region (except for maybe Naples, we didn't see hordes of other tourists there) is very busy with other tourists. Taking the ferry from place to place is nice as you get to see the area from the sea.
We were going to take the train from Naples to Sorrento to pick up our rental car and in the end we made a deal with the taxi driver to just take us all the way to Sorrento for 100 euros, it was worth it to me not to have to hassle with the luggage and the train station etc. Be prepared to be mind boggled at the traffic and the way they drive in Naples!!
We enjoyed having a car as we could go where we wanted, when we wanted and one of our best days was to Paestum to see the 2600 year old Greek temples. However, my husband is a very calm, good driver and to drive on the Amalfi you need to have nerves of steel, no fear and good spatial judgement. And a small car!
Also wanted to mention that I think Marina de Martino does accompany people to Pompeii for a tour if you are interested in having a guide there. And her rates are not expensive.
Another vote for Positano and the Hotel Marincanto. We had unbelievable views, the staff was wonderful, the beach area was relaxing and the water, well, INVIGORATING for sure. If you're wanting a romantic setting, this place definitely fits the bill.
If we could take the ferry from Positano to Sorrento and Ravello and its easy enough to get there then we won't rent a car. However, if its easier just to rent a car we might do that, but I hear it may be tough to park in Positano.
A driver to Pompeii for the day is a good idea. Will have to tally up the cost of everything to see if its doable.
paris1953 - Hotel Marincanto is on my list of places to look into. Looks beautiful!
There is no ferry to Revello as it is more than a mile inland. There is an easy SITA bus from Positano to Ravello, however.
You can easily take the small train from Naples or Sorrento to Pompeii for the day. Just make sure that you know the correct name of the stop to get off because as I remember there are two stops, one for the town and one for the ruins. Also, be aware that certain ferries stop running in October. W e could take a ferry from Sorrento to Capri but not Sorrento to Positano because the season was over. We took the bus and, having seen the ride, I would never attemp to drive this road by myself.
LadyYogi, I apologize if I gave you the idea that you could take a ferry to Ravello, I thought I was pretty clear that you would take the ferry to Amalfi and then get the bus. As bardo1 says it is way inland, waaayyyy up a hill. And good to know from bardo1 that the bus goes from Positano to Ravello, I was under the impression you first had to get to Amalfi.
LadyYogi, parking is tough in most places in the Amalfi, get a very small car if you do rent one. (and don't take an upgrade even if they offer it for free!!)
In Amalfi town there is a big parking lot near the marina we used several times. We didn't drive to Positano from our base in Minori because we were worried about parking, we drove to Amalfi and took the ferry instead.
And like wanttogo, I personally would not drive there, but as I said upthread my husband is a super good driver and he had no problem at all, although there were a few moments at first when he said "oh boy.." and then he said look you just can't show fear and hesitate you just go for it. I confess I said "oh holy sh--balls" many, many times on those drives. But after seeing the looks on the faces of the bus passengers we passed with literally inches to spare I'm not sure the bus was any better!
The bus doesn't go from Positano. You take the ferry or bus from Pos to Amalfi, then a different bus from Amalfi to Ravello. There are also taxis parked where you catch the bus in Amalfi, so that is also an easy option to get from Amalfi up to Ravello.
We've driven the Amalfi coast several times and it is very crowded with lots of buses. Every time a bus comes at you, they seem to have the right of way and plough around the curvy roads--quite the experience. If you're comfortable with that, driving gives you a lot of flexibility. As mentioned parking is hard to come by. Some hotels have parking so if you decide to drive you might want to pick a hotel with parking.
I think raincitygirl gave a great description of Naples. One of the nice things about Naples is because people think it might be horrible, they don't go and prices are way down compared to other Italian cities. Wonderful pizza's were about 3€.
All of you are awesome! Although my husband drives in NY city like a cab driver I think he would rather not drive in Almalfi. When we went to Rome and Florence it made NYC look like the country. I think we will go car-less this trip and take public transfportation. Plan on booking the flights this weekend and then figuring out hotels, or apartments whatever we can decide.

Definitely thinking of private driver from Naples to Positano - seems like it would be worth it.
We are thinking 5 nights in Positano, 2 in Capri,and 3 in Naples so that should give us enough time so that we don't feel like we are spending our vacation on trains and buses. We would love to just relax, enjoy the food, wine and scenery. I'm even thinking of staying in Ravello for a night but not sure if we want to move around that much.
Why is this so stressful?
> I'm even thinking of staying in Ravello for a night
I'm so glad I did! I thought it magical.
Agree with kja
Well enjoy your trip and Happy Birthday to the both of you. You have had some great suggestions and you will be able to get to the things you want to see just fine on public transport and using the private driver.
I think a night in Ravello would be lovely but that means a bit more moving around which is not my favourite thing.
Don't be stressed, think of it as fun! It's exciting and when you are there and see how gorgeous it all is you can give yourself a big pat on the back for being so clever to have organized it.