Naples & Amalfi Coast

Old May 4th, 2015, 05:01 AM
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Naples & Amalfi Coast

Hello!

My fiance and are honeymooning in Paris and Naples/Amalfi Coast region. We will have 6 to 7 full days on the ground in the latter and will depart early from Naples to Milan on the morning of the 7th/8th for a 4 pm flight. We definitely want to see Pompei and wouldn't mind a day in Naples, whether on the front end of the trip or the back end before we head to Milan.

As for the coast, I'm just wondering if it would be best to stay in a more centralized location like Sorrento and then take trips to Positano, Amalfi and the other little towns or if we would be difficult to stay in Positano (or another location on the coast) and do trips from that location. Because its our honeymoon, beauty and atmosphere are pretty high on the list, along with food. Any advice would be appreciated!

Lauren
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Old May 4th, 2015, 05:56 AM
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Well I stayed in Sorrento because I wanted to go to Capri, Ischia, Pompeii and up Mount Veuvius and to Heracluneam (sp?) - but if not intent on doing those things much and want to enscocnce yourself in a more dreamy setting than Sorrento - nice watering hole but no sea views and not that romantic like Positano or my favorite Amalfi or even Ravello, perhced high above Amalfi (the town).

Boats in season do go Positano, Amalfi I believe to Capri and buses are always running along the coast to Sorrento where you can get the CircumVesuviana commuter train to Pompeii or more frequent boats to Capri and Ischia and Procida sp?).
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Old May 4th, 2015, 06:59 AM
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what month?
I could not bear to stay in Sorrento the whole time when Amalfi and Positano are within reach, but with 7 days, you could do both--which I recommend if you want to do day trips.
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Old May 4th, 2015, 07:02 AM
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I would split it--2 nights in Sorrento for the convenience and the rest in Positano--it is special.
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Old May 4th, 2015, 07:21 AM
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I like bob's scenario - combining the best of both places - convenience of Sorrento from a utilitarian standpoint and the qambience of an Amalfi or Positano.
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Old May 4th, 2015, 07:48 AM
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There are certainly sea views in Sorrento and pretty gorgeous ones at that. I spent a week staring out the window at them!
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Old May 4th, 2015, 08:42 AM
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Sorrento is on the Bay of Naples and many of the hotels have wonderful views over that (esp if you get a terrace or balcony -you don;t mention hotel budget). We like it because it is a larger town with many more shop and restaurant choices and is great for visiting other places - trains and ferries to Naples, ferries and hydrofoils to Capri, bus and ferries down the AC to smaller towns, easy train directly to Pompeii.

So it really depends on what you want relaxing or sightseeing or both (for the latter I would split time between Sorrento and Positano). Getting from the smaller towns on the coast to see Pompeii can be a major PIA on the local bus and commuter train.

However I wold be hesitant to leave the AC the morning of your flight from Milan. There are just too many chances for delays, strikes, etc that could make a nonsense o f your flight home (The train naples to milan is almost 5 hours, plus an hour to get to the airport, plus 3 hours in advance for an international flight - totals 9 hours - plus the time to get from the AC to Naples - perhaps 11 hours total.) I would want to be in Milan the night before.
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Old May 4th, 2015, 08:49 AM
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Old May 4th, 2015, 09:33 AM
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When are you going? I hope you have some time, otherwise you need to get on a booking engine and see what's available BEFORE planning your trip! Otherwise:

I would recommend landing in Naples, arranging a private transfer to a hotel in Positano.(Cost: about 120-130E) Then:

5 nights in Positano with day trips to: Amalfi and Ravello; then Capri. Make sure you get an early start to avoid the big summer crowds.

Then... two nights in either Sorrento or Naples with a day trip to Pompeii and/ or Capri if you were unable to get there from Positano.

Just a FYI: If you decide to stay in Naples, look at hotels on the waterfront which is car-free, since it's your honeymoon. We really liked HOTEL EXCELSIOR, a gorgeous older hotel with stunning views of the waterfront and castle from its rooftop terrace.

Lastly, why Positano over Sorrento? Because it's your honeymoon. And there's a good reason why Positano is often called one of the honeymoon capitals of the world. It's absolutely gorgeous and slightly less full of tour buses and fish n chip shops than downtown Sorrento.
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Old May 4th, 2015, 11:21 AM
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Are there not boats at times from Naples via Sorrento to Positano?

Going by water would be so so sweet!
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Old May 4th, 2015, 01:37 PM
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You can only take ferries from Naples to Sorrento. Then you need to make a connection to Positano.
There are only two services per day from Sorrento to Positano.

Sorrento is a resort town full of package tourists and English speakers. It is not a representation of authenticity of the region of Campania. It may have nice views but you can't spend all day staring at a view. It has nothing to do except eat and shop. People who stay there use it as a base and leave for other destinations like Capri (overcrowded) and Pompeii. If that doesn't bother you then you may like it.
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Old May 4th, 2015, 03:03 PM
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I've been to region several times including just in March, as well as last July. I think there were far more "English speakers" in Positano and Amalfi than in Sorrento. There are plenty of English speaking tourists in all those places, but certainly no more in Sorrento. In fact, since Sorrento is larger than Positano or Amalfi the ratio of 'locals' to 'tourists' is higher in Sorrento. But no way will you feel you are in an 'authentic' little Italian village in any of those places, even in March, and certainly not in summer. This does not make these places any less wonderful to visit - they are ALL worthwhile. But you will not be able to pretend you are in anything but a very popular tourist resort town in any of them.

While it would be possible to stay in Naples the night before a 4pm flight out of Milan, I think it would be too risky. There are trains as early as 6am, that would get you to the airport (change in Milan Centrale) in time for the flight, but what if the train was late - that happens all the time in Italy.

I would probably stay in Sorrento the whole time (I'm one of those who actually prefer to stay there and not just because of its convenience for day trips) and do day trips to Amalfi, Positano, Capri, Pompeii, and Naples. But I'd go to Milan the night before.
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Old May 4th, 2015, 03:09 PM
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Good point, isabel. I totally missed what the OP was saying about her departure. I was thinking it was a 4 PM out of Naples to Milan.

Anyway, isabel is right. I wouldn't take a chance on missing your flight home. Spend the last night in Milan to be safe!
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Old May 4th, 2015, 03:12 PM
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Train strikes in Italy are all too common to not be near your departure airport if depending on public transportation - the old adage something hits when least likely at the time you desperately need it!
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Old May 4th, 2015, 05:40 PM
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Isabel - I agree with you - Positano is high on the English speaking tourist radar, however at least it has things to do like the Path of the Gods and beaches. Sorrento has no beaches (and IMHO a 'bathing platform' is not a beach).

OP - you say:

>

In that case I would avoid Sorrento as the food is ordinary/average and caters to the same English speaking tourists who hunt down lasagne and spaghetti bolognese. There are notable exceptions of course, Delfino being one of them and Bagni St. Anna - hotels that offer 'half board' are best avoided.

Campania is loaded with little gems that are not frequented by tourists and that fit your brief. Procida is one - a tiny jewel of an island, quiet and unspoilt, fantastic food and picturesque but with that authentic experience that's lacking in towns overrun with English speakers. It's a one hour ferry trip from Naples and is just gorgeous.
http://www.procida.org/
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Old May 4th, 2015, 05:43 PM
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Wow, thank you so much for all the advice! Ok:

1) We arrive in Paris Sept 25 and plan to head to Italy on the morning of the 30th. So from my research it looks like we will miss the insane end of summer but still have great weather, I hope

2) I was leaning towards Positano because yes, as some of you said, its our honeymoon and I (we) want to be blown away by beauty

3) For Pompei, I'm hoping we can do the Ferry thing then a train from Sorrento? I know it may be time consuming, but my hope is the Ferry will be nice in itself.

4) Having read all the feedback, I agree - Milan the night before our flight.

Other thoughts, is Capri worth it? Also, is it the best island to see as far as beauty/sights/etc?

You all have been so helpful, I appreciate it! We will definitely be in Positano, at least for a good portion of time. If anyone has any must-visit restaurants in the area, please share.
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Old May 4th, 2015, 07:37 PM
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'best island' - check my link for Procida. Also consider Ischia which is large and has great food including its specialty - coniglio.
End of September is a beautiful time to be there, and you will miss the worst of the mobs of other visitors.
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Old May 5th, 2015, 03:27 AM
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Pompeii is reached by train from Sorrento. No ferry involved.

Is Capri worth it? Depends what you're looking for. It's a high-end shopping mecca mobbed with day trippers in the summer months. Hopefully, you'll miss most of that end of September/early October.

Anacapri, at the top of the island, is very beautiful. So is a 1/2 day cruise of the island, with a possible stop at the very touristy- but worth a look if you can get in - Blue Grotto.

Now about restaurants in Positano:

Along the seaside Path of the Gods which begins near the town dock, you'll find LO GUARACINO, a simple handmade pasta/pizza trattoria with outstanding views of the water.

In town, on the beach, we really like BUCA DI BACCO.

On Via Pasitea, SARCENO D'ORO, at the far end of the street towards Fornillo Beach, has excellent food, though not much of a view.

And the best for last, LA TAGLIATA in Montepertuso, a mountain village 15 min by car from Positano. Food is amazing, views down the mountain at dusk toward Positano are unforgettable.
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Old May 5th, 2015, 06:55 AM
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Hey Blueeyed!- My wife dreaded eating coniglio. She would not even look at it. She was raised in Naples during WWII, even though she was American. Her father got hold of a couple of coniglios, and their main source of nutrition was coniglio, due to the fact that they multiply so rapidly. She recalled her difficult days in Naples during those times. She was a little girl, but that always stuck in her memory. A side story--How many Americans can say that they came face to face with Hitler? She was less than two feet from the bastard's face, and looked right into his eyes.
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Old May 5th, 2015, 01:07 PM
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As for restaurants in Positano, we like Lo Guaracino also - good food with a quiet ambiance and nice view of the sea. We also love Tre Sorelle right on the beach - great grilled seafood and people watching!

One of our favorite spots for dinner, if they are still open when you are there, is the restaurant at Hotel Le Sirene on Laurito Beach. They will send a shuttle to pick you up at the dock in the Positano, and bring you back after dinner. It is charming, romantic, has a great view of the sea and terrific food. We usually get there in time to have an aperitivo cocktail with a view of the sun setting over Positano.

We also love the Latteria store across from Hotel Poseidon for sandwiches and other take away food. There is a good wine shop on Via Pasitea not too far up from Piazza Mulini (on the right side as you are heading up toward the car park/gas station - near the pharmacy) where I usually get a couple of bottles to enjoy on our terrace.
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