cdispoto

I will be visiting Venice from September 23-26, 2012 and have drawn up an itinerary I would love for some experienced travelers to look at and let me know how it fares.

My wife and I are 35 and 31, will be staying in the Dorsoduro area and like to get up early and walk a lot. We want to find the balance between seeing a lot without having a chaotic visit.

My main question about the itinerary is whether I should begin Day 2 at the Rialto and end in Piazza San Marco or vice-versa. I'm not sure if one area is better than the other in mornings, afternoons, etc. I'd also like to know the best time of day for a gondola ride.

This itinerary includes the sightseeing but not lunch or dinner plans as I can decide a little later on.

This will be a little long but bear with me and any feedback woud be greatly appreciated.

DAY ONE:
Arrive in Venice via Train from Milan at 11:40 am
Take Vaporetto from Ferrovia to Salute
Walk to Hotel (Ca Santo Spirito), Check In

Visit Santa Maria della Salute, La Dogana da Mar, Peggy Guggenheim Collection and Palazzo Cini and Gallerie dell'Accademia - all in Dursodoro area.

After dinner, end day with a stroll on the Zattere

DAY TWO:
Breakfast at Ca Santo Spirito Hotel

Walk to Piazza San Marco (See: Museo Correr, Torre dell’Orologio, Piazzaetta dei Leoncini, Basilica di San Marco, Palazzo Ducale, Campinale)

Walk from Piazza San Marco to Rialto

Along the way, visit:
Bacino Orseolo (gondola stand), San Moise (church), La Fenice (opera house), Santo Stefano (church), Palazzo Grassi (palace), Palazzo Mocenigo (palace), Palazzo Fortuny (palace), Scala Contraini del Bovolo (palace), San Salvador (chapel)

Cross the Rialto to the Market

Make way back to hotel on west side of the Grand Canal and visit: Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari (church), Scuola Grande di San Rocco (16th century school), Scuola Grande dei Carmini (17th century school), Campo San Barnaba (square)

Gondola ride (Where?/When?)

DAY THREE:
Breakfast at Ca Santo Spirito Hotel
Take Vaporetto to Murano (52 mins)

Walk Murano

Take Vaporetto to Torcello (33 mins)

Walk/Have Lunch in Torcello

Take Vaporetto from Torcello to Burano (10 mins)

Take Vaporetto 12 from Burano to Murano back to Dorsodoro (60 Mins)

DAY FOUR
Breakfast at Ca Santo Spirito Hotel

Vaporetto back to Train Station for trip to Florence.

worldinabag

Hi

"My main question about the itinerary is whether I should begin Day 2 at the Rialto and end in Piazza San Marco or vice-versa."
The two aren't that far apart walk wise. But I definitely would start at the Rialto end mainly because you wanted to visit the market. The market is essentially fruit and vegs, meat and fish. I particularly wanted to visit the fish market but note that by midday it's pretty much winding up. Like any market I would visit early to enjoy all its attraction.

"Gondola ride (Where?/When?)". Entirely up to you. We asked to be taken to the small, less busy canals. This was around mid morning. Venice is beautiful 24/7 but you may like to ride at dusk or even after sunset. I suggest have a walk around Venice first to assess what would be your best gondola experience.

Peter_S_Aus

I think you will find that things take longer than you expect. The basilica plus the Doges palace alone will take at least two hours, probably more, depending on the length of the lines to get in.

I would suggest that you save Murano / Burano / Torcello for another visit.
It all seems awfully busy:
Day two – see all these things (after you walk from Dorsoduro to the Piazza, which is about half an hour at least)
Museo Correr, say ¾ hour
Torre dell’Orologio, ten minutes
Piazzaetta dei Leoncini, ten minutes
Basilica di San Marco, half an hour
Palazzo Ducale, one and a half hours
Campinale ten minutes
Bacino Orseolo (gondola stand), ten minutes
San Moise (church), (omit this)
La Fenice (opera house), half an hour
Santo Stefano (church), 20 minutes, and a canal flows right under the sacristy
Palazzo Grassi (palace), five minutes
Palazzo Mocenigo (palace), five minutes
Palazzo Fortuny (palace), five minutes
Scala Contraini del Bovolo (staircase), ten minutes, and it is not easy to find
San Salvador (chapel) don’t know this one
Cross the Rialto to the Market - allow 3/4 hour around the Rialto.
Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari (church), is 15 minutes walk from the Rialto. I've spent an hour in there - there are some spectacular painytings in the Frari.
Scuola Grande di San Rocco (16th century school), is close to the Frari. Needs 3/4 hour.
Scuola Grande dei Carmini (17th century school), is twenty minutes walk from the Frari, probably more. Allow 20 minutes for the Carmini, but we spent an hour.
Campo San Barnaba (square) – just walk through it is not significant.
Gondola Ride – say an hour.

And in September, the press of people will make getting around a bit slow. The walking distance for this route is at least several kilometres, plus a heap of bridges.

I'm not trying to rain on your parade, and i think your plan is not do-able.

If you click on my user name, you'll find a couple of trip reports that I've written about Venice.

tarquin

When you get to the Piazza San Marco on Day 2, I would go first to the Basilica and go in then if the queue is short. In my experience, the Museo Correr is never busy, go there later on.

And I agree with Peter, the islands are subsidiary to Venice - allot them less, if any, time.

You have far too many "sights" on your list. For instance you say "Campo San Barnaba - just walk through it is not significant." Venice is the thing, walk around with your eyes wide open and and take it in. And try to remember it, you won't see anywhere else so beautiful.

cdispoto

Thanks for the feedback.

Peter, you said to save Murano, etc. for another visit but didn't specify what should I do on Day Three?

Also, Campo San Barnaba IS significant as it was featured in Indiana Jones at the Last Crusade, which is one of my favorite movies. However, I will only pass through.

I will check out your trip reports, thank you.

Pepper_von_snoot

keith and i just returned from venice. we stayed two weeks.

you will experience what i call a 'tsunami' of tourists between piazza san marco and the rialto bridge.

i visit piazza san marco as early as possible. cruise ships park in venice and thousands flock to piazza san marco for the day.

the rialto market is going until about 1--some stands stay open later--there is an indian guy who is usually there until 5 pm. you can stop for a aperol spritz or some cichetti at all' arca, do mori, al merka, etc. you will see these places near the market.

i would not do the peggy guggeheim and accedemia on the same day. you will have what i call 'art fog'--i work for one of america's greatest auction houses and look at art, furniture, and object d'art all day long so i know what i am talking about.

the diana vreeland exhibit is over at the fortuny, don't know if the museum is open unless there is a special exhibit taking place.

i would not forsake venice to see murano.

you really should visit the jewish ghetto and walk up to madonna dell'orto. it is so peaceful and quiet there-- a great place to escape the tourist crowds.

the via garibaldi in castelo is also nice, with a turn through the biennale gardens. cafe paradiso for a spritz is great.

good luck,

thin--sorry for typing but i am posting from my phone.

wanderful

cdispoto:

Minute-by-minute planning is not the way to experience Venice. You've got too too many churches, palaces, and museums on your menu, and too little time to breathe in this unique city. As you go along, you may want to spend more time at a venue than you originally planned, which would throw off your clockwork itinerary. You may just want to walk around and drink in a particular area, which again will explode your plans. Don't straitjacket yourself.

Ackislander

I don't know where you will be coming from, but expect it to be hot and humid. It was at that time last year, and that weathe provided a significant brake on the activities our friends had planned. If you come from Houston, disregard this.

Delaine

I agree that you have too many things planned for day 2. If you do not end up going to Murano/Torcello/Burano, you could move some of those things to day 3. I went to Venice for the third time at the end of last August, and it was the most crowded I have ever seen it, not to mention extremely hot (and I am from Texas). The crowds and the heat will slow your progress despite your best intentions.

Unless you really want to buy glass direct from a factory, I don't think Murano is worth taking time away from Venice when you only have a couple of days. Burano was nice, with all the brightly painted buildings; it is also smaller. I did not go to Torcello as the Campanile of Santa Maria del Assunta was closed for repairs(and may still be).

I think a great time for a gondola ride, especially in September heat, is at dusk. My boyfriend and I arranged for a ride down mainly smaller rios and canals from the gondola stand near Santa Maria del Giglio. It is in front of Ristorante da Raffaele. We had dinner reservations there at 8 and showed up at the gondola stand a bit after 7. We were even able to get drinks from the restaurant to take on the gondola with us. When we returned, we had dinner on the canal-side terrace. The restaurant was very good and had been recommended by a friend who goes there almost yearly.

Finally, I too have been to Campo San Barnaba. It is famous not only from the Indiana Jones movie but also from the classic Katherine Hepburn movie, Summertime. However, the visit did not take long. It is very near the Ponte dei Pugni too (Bridge of Fists), should you wish to see it.

Pepper_von_snoot

agree--campo san barnaba is very small.

the most beautiful campo in venice is campo san giacomo dell'orio.

thin

socaltraveler

I know you will love Venice, but you will love it more if you throw away the 'lists' and the 'times' and let your days flow a little. It will be hot, humid and full of people. The vaporettos will be crowded, and will run mostly on time, but maybe not. Try to see less, take spritz breaks and people watch.

rhkkmk

my reaction is that you will not have time on any of your days to do all of what you want.. take day 1 for instance--totally unrealistic..

i love D and just wandering around there could consume your whole stay..

you seem to be rushing from one place to another without time to soak up the city itself..

i would forget the islands totally

Peter_S_Aus

Campo San Barnaba has a toy shop or two (one of the toy shops featured in the Hepburn movie, when she fell in the adjacent canal), an internet café of sorts, a clothes shop,a tabac, a shop selling designer home wares, a restaurant, a deli, and the Ai Artisti bar, who pour a spritz with the best olives I have ever eaten. Check out Fabio Bressalano’s photos, just to the right as you cross the Pont de Pugni from Campo Margerita. His photos are pretty good, and I’ve bought one. Also check out the vegetable barge right by the bridge – it has been there for eons, and appears in many photos. The grumpy vegetable vendors have sold out, and replaced, hopefully, by less grumpy vendors.

There are generally a couple of gondoliers waiting in Campo San B.

The church of San Barnaba is de-consecrated, and is given over to an exhibition of models of Leonardo da Vinci inventions (unless it has closed). Otherwise the church is no big deal.

Turn right into Calle Longa San Barnaba, away from the church, and 50 yards, on your left, is a shop selling linen. The owner is delightful, and speaks perfect English. (Tell her that Peter and Louise from Australia recommended her.)

Back to Campo San B, turn right at the tabac, continue towards the Academy (sign posted San Marco), cross one bridge and there is a shop on your right selling convex mirrors, as seen in Vermeer’s painting of “The Banker”. Further on, on the Fondamenta Toletta, there is a good bookshop, and before you cross the next bridge, on your left, a shop selling the best tremezzini in Venice. At least, that’s our opinion.

Cross the bridge and turn right on the fondamenta (I think it is the Fond San Trovaso), and go 200 yards. You can see across the canal the last squero in Venice, a boat yard where gondolas are hauled out and painted. Walk back to the bar San Trovaso, where they do good snacks. Point to what you want, and each piece costs one euro, a glass of wine two or three euro.

Follow the signs towards San Marco, and you'll reach the Academy.

There, a little walk in a part of Venice that we called home for a couple of months almost two years ago.

cdispoto

Thanks everyone for your invaluable advice. Based on the responses, I have drastically altered my itinerary to the following. It's changed quite a bit so any further feedback would be fantastic:

DAY ONE:
Arrive in Venice via Train from Milan at 11:40 am
Take Vaporetto from Ferrovia to Salute
Walk to Hotel (Ca Santo Spirito), Check In

Visit Santa Maria della Salute, La Dogana da Mar, Peggy Guggenheim Collection and Palazzo Cini - all in Dursodoro area.

After dinner, end day with a stroll on the Zattere

DAY TWO:
Breakfast at Ca Santo Spirito Hotel

Walk to Piazza San Marco (See: Museo Correr, Torre dell’Orologio, Piazzaetta dei Leoncini, Basilica di San Marco, Palazzo Ducale, Campinale)

Take Vaporetto from San Marco to Ca'd'Oro

Stroll south along the east side of the Canal and view:

HIGH PRIORITY: Ca'd'Oro/Galleria Franchetti, Santa Maria Miracoli

PRIORIITY: Campo Santo Giovanni e Paolo (square), Bacino Orseolo (gondola stand), La Fenice (opera house), Scala Contraini del Bovolo (palace), Palazzo Grassi (palace),

IF THERE IS EXTRA TIME: Santo Stefano (church), Palazzo Mocenigo (palace), Palazzo Fortuny (palace), San Salvador (chapel).

Gondola ride at dusk.

DAY THREE:
Breakfast at Ca Santo Spirito Hotel

Take the Vaporetto from Salute to Rialto.

Cross the Rialto to the Market

Stroll south along the west side of the Grand Canal and view:

HIGH PRIORITY: Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari (church), Scuola Grande di San Rocco (16th century school), Campo Santa Margherita (square),

PRIORITY: Campo San Polo (square), Scuola Grande dei Carmini (17th century school), Campo San Barnaba (square), Ca'Rezzonico (museum)

Finish at the Gallerie dell' Accademia.

DAY FOUR
Breakfast at Ca Santo Spirito Hotel

Vaporetto back to Train Station for trip to Florence.

*************************************

If there is extra time, I would love to take the vaporetto up to the Palazzo Labia area, but I'm not rushing it.

This seems like a much more pleasant and well-paced trip just by looking at it. Now I'm going to have to write another post just to figure out where to eat!!

cdispoto

Peter, I was writing my last long post as you posted your last response, but thank you I will definitely note that route!

Peter_S_Aus

For eating, try "La Bitta", Calle Lunga San Barnaba. We've eaten there several times. They don't do fish.

Peter_S_Aus

The church of San Polo is really worth going into.
. The church is pretty dim, and when inside you can see people put their noses in, and decide that they’ll maybe spend their three euro on a coffee and brioche rather than yet another church. In the church proper, there is an OK Tiepolo the elder, and after that the usual group of dark oils showing various saints having a rough time of it.

The treasure of San Polo is in the sacristy. There is a Stations of the Cross, the story told in fourteen frames, almost like a documentary. This group of paintings did not find favour when Tiepolo the Younger painted it around 1750, and I think that the style would have cut across the conventional view of the crucifixion. Tiepolo painted no calm, placid, self-sacrificing demi-god, there’s no Father, Son and Holy Ghost in evidence here. We have a tortured, agonised man, being done to death for upsetting the Roman order of things, threatening the status quo, that “Render unto Caesar” phrase would certainly have threatened the taxation revenue, and overturning the tables of the money changers would knock a hole in synagogue revenue. Those moneychangers paid for the table concessions, were licensed, and entitled to make a buck on the exchange.

That Tiepolo painting, that first Station, sets the scene of what is to come, and outlines the way the narrative will be told. And so asking the mob, “What should we do, what’s a fit punishment” was always going to have the mob baying for blood, “yeah, let’s have a crucifixion, haven’t seen one for weeks”. Nobody was going to suggest a period of home detention, an ASBO, or a fine. And no magistrate was going to lose favour by asking the mob – every election campaign, 2000 years later, still brings up law and order as a issue. “Let’s get tough on Crime!” I’ve read an account of the municipal authorities of a fourteenth century Italian town paying for the right to disembowel, hang, draw and quarter a criminal from a nearby town. Getting tough on crime has a long history.

So there is no “gentle Jesus, meek and mild” portrayed in these Stations. It is all a very human story; I think not the way the people who commissioned the work expected the story to be told. They were not expecting a political statement to hang in the church, and so the paintings languished, unhung, for decades. The same goes for the ascent to Heaven. Mostly one see a most serene portrayal, Jesus ascending, maybe standing on some sort of little cloud, a bunch of angels in attendance, being drawn up to the light. Not in Tiepolo’s version. He has Jesus literally jumping towards the heavens, ascending completely under his own steam, a most athletic Jesus.

So the San Polo church may not be for everyone, but the Tiepolo works make it pretty special for me.

tarquin

Spending time and money (20 euro entry) on the Palazzo Cini is madness on your first trip to Venice, unless you are Extremely serious about modern (like 21st century) art. Just take a look at the boy holding fish statue on the point behind the building.

Pepper_von_snoot

tarquin, is that statue any relation to charles ray's statue of 'boy holding a bullfrog' on the punta dell dogana/

keith tripped over that statue whilst taking a photo of the doge's palace. the security guard was rather nice about it though. he did not yell, 'don't touch the art.'

when i first saw this statue i immediately thought of tom sawyer and huckleberry finn.

thin

tarquin

Yes, of course, frog. I have enough pictures of it!