My Two Week Trip to Rome in April
May 9th, 2005, 07:10 PM
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My Two Week Trip to Rome in April
Just got back a few weeks ago from 2 wonderful weeks in Rome. Thanks for all the tips and recommendations I received from all you Fodorites. I hope I can return the favor a bit with my trip report. Here goes...
Rental Apartment - I rented the La Guilia apartment near Piazza Farnese. It was wonderful! An adorable apartment in a perfect location. I found this apartment at www.italyperfect.com It looks exactly like it does on the website. I arrived on Sunday morning 4/11 and was in the center of town by 9am or so. Check-in was supposed to be at 6pm but thankfully they were able to clean and have the apartment ready and I was checked in by 10:30am...Francesca was at the apartment when I arrived and was delightful. She helped me lug my huge suitcase up the spiral staircase. She showed my how the stove worked (gas, you have to light it with matches), how the cable tv worked (hundreds of channels), and the shower features. She offered the use of a cell phone but I already had one. So, after leaving me her number in case of an emergency, I was on my own
Restaurants - I really lucked out with restaurants. One of my first nights I had dinner with a friend at a place called Santa Cristina (Via della Cordonata, 21-22, www.ristorantesantacristina.com) I had the best lasagne I've ever had. My friend, Melissa, had rigatoni with zucchini, delicious. Both of us had fried carciofi for appetizers. I've eaten at this restaurant on previous trips and really dream about the lasagne. It's a family run business and the grandmother will not give out the recipe! They also bring warm bread to the table in a little basket with a lid
Another night, Melissa and I went to the new mozzarella bar, Obika (Piazza di Firenze - angolo Via dei Prefetti, 06 6832630). We ordered a sampling of three types of mozzarella (smoked, plain and one other - can't remember). The sampler also had tomatoes and we were served bread and balsamico. Everything was delicious and really light. Neither one of us was super hungry, so this was perfect. I have read that some people think the ambiance is a bit cold or modern. It's definitely not trattoria-like, it's more like a sushi bar style restaurant. I thought the staff was friendly and attentive.
One last restaurant that Melissa and I checked out (and loved) was Maccheroni (www.ristorantemaccheroni.com 06 68307895 - Piazza delle Coppelle, 44). We split a cheese plate and bread for our appetizer. I ordered the ravioli with pumpkin and Melissa had the rigatoni. Both dishes were so delicious, I don't think we talked for the next twenty minutes. We didn't order dessert because we were going to go for gelato, but the waiter did bring us a complementary glass of limoncello (it was the creamy kind, heavenly). After dinner we went to Della Palma for gelato, I got my usual nocciola (hazelnut). This was actually my only gelato on the whole trip (travesty, I know). I kind of overdosed on gelato when I lived in Rome.
Dar Poeta (Vicolo del Bologna, 45/46 angolo Piazza della Scala)- This is an incredible pizza place in Trastevere. I ate here twice. First with a friend who has lived in Rome for years. The pizza is amazing. I've become addicted to the pizza with potatoes on it. We ordered a mixed bruschette plate (4 euro), my pizza with potatoes and sausage, I can't remember the pizza my friend ordered and then we split a bottle of house red (8 euro) and a huge bottle of acqua (1 euro). We didn't order dessert, but I heard an Italian couple next to me order crepes with nutella...The wait staff is really friendly and the place is a mix of mostly locals and a few tourists. There is usually a crowd outside waiting but the wait usually isn't that long...definitely worth it.
Ristorante Costa Smeralda - My Italian friends took me to this restaurant and it was the highlight of my trip. The seafood is flown in daily from Sardinia...simply amazing. Do not eat before you come to this restaurant...they bring platter after platter of food. First they bring plates of antipasti - octupus, different types of clams, mussels, fried zucchini, sardines. Then they bring a plate of risotto, then a plate of spaghetti with clams, then a plate of linguini and another type of clam or mussel. NOW comes the main dish...a huge platter of different types of fish, some deep fried, some filetted, an amazing presentation. Oh, before they brought out this dish, they brought out a tray with radishes and type of celery with olive oil/pepper for dipping. Is this to clean the palette before the next dish? Anyway, after the big platter of fish, they brought out a platter of fruit, a wine glass filled with a type of lemon/vanilla cream, and a bottle of grappa. The address is: Via R. Marcolongo 37, Tel. 06 55 91 245. My friends say you definitely need a reservation for Friday or Saturday nights. The place had only locals in it.
Two places I went for pre-dinner wine and appetizers were: Enoteca Il Piccolo on Via del Governo Vecchio, 74-75. I love the gorgonzola with honey and a glass of wine. I also would go to Enoteca Trastevere for drinks and appetizers. They are located on Via della Lungaretta, 86 tel 06 588 5659.
Ok, last but not least...a sushi restaurant...(I know, I know, how could I have gone to a sushi restaurant in Rome, but it was my Italian friends idea). The place is called Kisso and it's located on Via Firenze, 30/32. I love sushi and was not disappointed here.
Shopping - I didn't do a lot of shopping on this trip, but one store I found and loved was called Old & New. It is an adorable little shop on Via di Monserrato 99 (near Piazza Farnese). It just opened and is run by a lovely French woman. The store has jewelry and ceramics. I bought a beautiful brooch for my grandmother, and several necklaces for me and my Mom,
Libreria delle Arte - It's on the main street, Vittorio Emanuelle (if you're walking towards the Vatican from Torre Argentina, it's on the right hand side of the street just past Chiesa Nuova. This store was a used bookstore/gift shop. I really spent some time in here and found some gems. The best thing I bought was an old edition of Oggi magazine from 1954 with Ingrid Bergman on the cover. She was in Rome getting ready to film a move. The price for this was 15 euro. I also bought my Vatican/Pope items (postcards, rosaries etc). They also had those watercolor prints that they sell in Piazza Navona, but at much better prices (3-4 euros per print).
Weather - Just a mix really. Days when it POURED, thunder, lightening etc. Then there would be days of 70 degree weather. I just had layers since each day varied.
Clothes - Ok, I mostly wear black (not for any fashion statement, but rather for its slimming effect) but I saw so many colors over there being worn, I felt so dark and dismal. My friend brought a beautiful light green trench like coat (and she was hesitant to bring it because of its color) but two Italian women stopped her and actually asked her where she bought her coat, they loved it so much! Go figure...my advice is just to wear what you like, what looks good on you and what is comfortable. Rome has such a mix of people, there really isn't one standard of fashion. I saw a bit of everything.
Scuola Leonard da Vinci - I had signed up for a two week course at this school. I had previously attended this school for 3 months in 2002 and 3 months in 2003 (both times were great). This time, however, was a little different. The main problem is that they put me in the afternoon class (2-5pm) when I had normally had the morning session (8:45-12). This was not a good time for me at all...I felt like I was waiting around all day for my class instead of getting it out of the way in the morning Most importantly, it was a real struggle to sit in a class at 2pm after a huge lunch and mezzo litre of vino bianco I only lasted a week, then my friend came over from San Diego and that was the end of school.
My flight home...sigh...what a long day. I had a free ticket on American Airlines, so I really shouldn't complain but here was the route. Rome, London, Chicago, San Diego. I left Rome on Sunday, April 24th...the first day the new Pope was giving a public blessing in Vatican City. My taxi was supposed to get me at 8am and arrived at 8:40...a little stressful...then we couldn't get out of the center of Rome. Most of the main road were blocked off for all the VIP, high up people coming in to Rome to see the Pope...I knew we were in trouble when I started giving the taxi driver suggestions on side streets. Thankfully, we found a way out and by the time we got to the freeway, we were speeding along just fine. I ended up having a 2 hour wait in Rome, a 3 hour layover at Heathrow and due to delays in Chicago, three hours there...
This was my ninth trip to Rome and it was just as wonderful as all the other visits. I'm already hoping for a trip back in October. If you are planning your first trip to Rome, don't get too stressed out about seeing everything, or worrying about what exactly to wear, take time to enjoy the atmosphere, sit in a piazza and people watch etc. There is nothing wrong with taking "wine breaks" every two hours or so. Rome has such a magnetic pull that your first trip will not be your last!
Rental Apartment - I rented the La Guilia apartment near Piazza Farnese. It was wonderful! An adorable apartment in a perfect location. I found this apartment at www.italyperfect.com It looks exactly like it does on the website. I arrived on Sunday morning 4/11 and was in the center of town by 9am or so. Check-in was supposed to be at 6pm but thankfully they were able to clean and have the apartment ready and I was checked in by 10:30am...Francesca was at the apartment when I arrived and was delightful. She helped me lug my huge suitcase up the spiral staircase. She showed my how the stove worked (gas, you have to light it with matches), how the cable tv worked (hundreds of channels), and the shower features. She offered the use of a cell phone but I already had one. So, after leaving me her number in case of an emergency, I was on my own
Restaurants - I really lucked out with restaurants. One of my first nights I had dinner with a friend at a place called Santa Cristina (Via della Cordonata, 21-22, www.ristorantesantacristina.com) I had the best lasagne I've ever had. My friend, Melissa, had rigatoni with zucchini, delicious. Both of us had fried carciofi for appetizers. I've eaten at this restaurant on previous trips and really dream about the lasagne. It's a family run business and the grandmother will not give out the recipe! They also bring warm bread to the table in a little basket with a lid
Another night, Melissa and I went to the new mozzarella bar, Obika (Piazza di Firenze - angolo Via dei Prefetti, 06 6832630). We ordered a sampling of three types of mozzarella (smoked, plain and one other - can't remember). The sampler also had tomatoes and we were served bread and balsamico. Everything was delicious and really light. Neither one of us was super hungry, so this was perfect. I have read that some people think the ambiance is a bit cold or modern. It's definitely not trattoria-like, it's more like a sushi bar style restaurant. I thought the staff was friendly and attentive.
One last restaurant that Melissa and I checked out (and loved) was Maccheroni (www.ristorantemaccheroni.com 06 68307895 - Piazza delle Coppelle, 44). We split a cheese plate and bread for our appetizer. I ordered the ravioli with pumpkin and Melissa had the rigatoni. Both dishes were so delicious, I don't think we talked for the next twenty minutes. We didn't order dessert because we were going to go for gelato, but the waiter did bring us a complementary glass of limoncello (it was the creamy kind, heavenly). After dinner we went to Della Palma for gelato, I got my usual nocciola (hazelnut). This was actually my only gelato on the whole trip (travesty, I know). I kind of overdosed on gelato when I lived in Rome.
Dar Poeta (Vicolo del Bologna, 45/46 angolo Piazza della Scala)- This is an incredible pizza place in Trastevere. I ate here twice. First with a friend who has lived in Rome for years. The pizza is amazing. I've become addicted to the pizza with potatoes on it. We ordered a mixed bruschette plate (4 euro), my pizza with potatoes and sausage, I can't remember the pizza my friend ordered and then we split a bottle of house red (8 euro) and a huge bottle of acqua (1 euro). We didn't order dessert, but I heard an Italian couple next to me order crepes with nutella...The wait staff is really friendly and the place is a mix of mostly locals and a few tourists. There is usually a crowd outside waiting but the wait usually isn't that long...definitely worth it.
Ristorante Costa Smeralda - My Italian friends took me to this restaurant and it was the highlight of my trip. The seafood is flown in daily from Sardinia...simply amazing. Do not eat before you come to this restaurant...they bring platter after platter of food. First they bring plates of antipasti - octupus, different types of clams, mussels, fried zucchini, sardines. Then they bring a plate of risotto, then a plate of spaghetti with clams, then a plate of linguini and another type of clam or mussel. NOW comes the main dish...a huge platter of different types of fish, some deep fried, some filetted, an amazing presentation. Oh, before they brought out this dish, they brought out a tray with radishes and type of celery with olive oil/pepper for dipping. Is this to clean the palette before the next dish? Anyway, after the big platter of fish, they brought out a platter of fruit, a wine glass filled with a type of lemon/vanilla cream, and a bottle of grappa. The address is: Via R. Marcolongo 37, Tel. 06 55 91 245. My friends say you definitely need a reservation for Friday or Saturday nights. The place had only locals in it.
Two places I went for pre-dinner wine and appetizers were: Enoteca Il Piccolo on Via del Governo Vecchio, 74-75. I love the gorgonzola with honey and a glass of wine. I also would go to Enoteca Trastevere for drinks and appetizers. They are located on Via della Lungaretta, 86 tel 06 588 5659.
Ok, last but not least...a sushi restaurant...(I know, I know, how could I have gone to a sushi restaurant in Rome, but it was my Italian friends idea). The place is called Kisso and it's located on Via Firenze, 30/32. I love sushi and was not disappointed here.
Shopping - I didn't do a lot of shopping on this trip, but one store I found and loved was called Old & New. It is an adorable little shop on Via di Monserrato 99 (near Piazza Farnese). It just opened and is run by a lovely French woman. The store has jewelry and ceramics. I bought a beautiful brooch for my grandmother, and several necklaces for me and my Mom,
Libreria delle Arte - It's on the main street, Vittorio Emanuelle (if you're walking towards the Vatican from Torre Argentina, it's on the right hand side of the street just past Chiesa Nuova. This store was a used bookstore/gift shop. I really spent some time in here and found some gems. The best thing I bought was an old edition of Oggi magazine from 1954 with Ingrid Bergman on the cover. She was in Rome getting ready to film a move. The price for this was 15 euro. I also bought my Vatican/Pope items (postcards, rosaries etc). They also had those watercolor prints that they sell in Piazza Navona, but at much better prices (3-4 euros per print).
Weather - Just a mix really. Days when it POURED, thunder, lightening etc. Then there would be days of 70 degree weather. I just had layers since each day varied.
Clothes - Ok, I mostly wear black (not for any fashion statement, but rather for its slimming effect) but I saw so many colors over there being worn, I felt so dark and dismal. My friend brought a beautiful light green trench like coat (and she was hesitant to bring it because of its color) but two Italian women stopped her and actually asked her where she bought her coat, they loved it so much! Go figure...my advice is just to wear what you like, what looks good on you and what is comfortable. Rome has such a mix of people, there really isn't one standard of fashion. I saw a bit of everything.
Scuola Leonard da Vinci - I had signed up for a two week course at this school. I had previously attended this school for 3 months in 2002 and 3 months in 2003 (both times were great). This time, however, was a little different. The main problem is that they put me in the afternoon class (2-5pm) when I had normally had the morning session (8:45-12). This was not a good time for me at all...I felt like I was waiting around all day for my class instead of getting it out of the way in the morning Most importantly, it was a real struggle to sit in a class at 2pm after a huge lunch and mezzo litre of vino bianco
I only lasted a week, then my friend came over from San Diego and that was the end of school. My flight home...sigh...what a long day. I had a free ticket on American Airlines, so I really shouldn't complain but here was the route. Rome, London, Chicago, San Diego. I left Rome on Sunday, April 24th...the first day the new Pope was giving a public blessing in Vatican City. My taxi was supposed to get me at 8am and arrived at 8:40...a little stressful...then we couldn't get out of the center of Rome. Most of the main road were blocked off for all the VIP, high up people coming in to Rome to see the Pope...I knew we were in trouble when I started giving the taxi driver suggestions on side streets. Thankfully, we found a way out and by the time we got to the freeway, we were speeding along just fine. I ended up having a 2 hour wait in Rome, a 3 hour layover at Heathrow and due to delays in Chicago, three hours there...
This was my ninth trip to Rome and it was just as wonderful as all the other visits. I'm already hoping for a trip back in October. If you are planning your first trip to Rome, don't get too stressed out about seeing everything, or worrying about what exactly to wear, take time to enjoy the atmosphere, sit in a piazza and people watch etc. There is nothing wrong with taking "wine breaks" every two hours or so.
Rome has such a magnetic pull that your first trip will not be your last!
May 9th, 2005, 09:42 PM
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Hello amsinrome thanks for an great trip report!
Can you tell me where Piazza Farnese is? I don't recall ever passing by it on my trip to Rome and it sounds very nice.
Also thanks for all the wonderful restaurant recommendations!
Can you tell me where Piazza Farnese is? I don't recall ever passing by it on my trip to Rome and it sounds very nice.
Also thanks for all the wonderful restaurant recommendations!
May 10th, 2005, 03:13 AM
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Thanks for the great information! I had been recommended Maccheroni for our last trip, but never made it. But it sounds yummy, so I hope to make it there this trip.
Is the pizza place you recommend in Trastevere near Piazza Santa Maria?
iloveitaly -- Piazza Farnese is one block from Campo dei Fiori, going towards the river.
Is the pizza place you recommend in Trastevere near Piazza Santa Maria?
iloveitaly -- Piazza Farnese is one block from Campo dei Fiori, going towards the river.
May 10th, 2005, 08:54 AM
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Hi awbaker and Sally-
Dar Poeta in Trastevere is on the corner of Via della Scala (a pretty main street in Trastevere, right off of the main piazza) & Vicolo del Bologna.
Scuola Leonardo is just an Italian language school. It's 1 1/2 hours of grammar and 1 1/2 hours of conversation. The teachers are really good.
Dar Poeta in Trastevere is on the corner of Via della Scala (a pretty main street in Trastevere, right off of the main piazza) & Vicolo del Bologna.
Scuola Leonardo is just an Italian language school. It's 1 1/2 hours of grammar and 1 1/2 hours of conversation. The teachers are really good.
May 10th, 2005, 09:25 AM
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ams,
Great report - thanks for posting. I especially appreciate the dining details.
Your apartment looks wonderful and is a steal at under $130 night. (I'll never understand how anyone could prefer to lodge in the Steps, Collossium, or Termini areas as opposed to Farnese/Via Giulia/Campo).
Did you happen to check out that wine/oil/pasta boutique on Via Giulia?? I think the all small shops in that general area have great, unique stuff, even if not always practical (like the toy store for pets).
Great report - thanks for posting. I especially appreciate the dining details.
Your apartment looks wonderful and is a steal at under $130 night. (I'll never understand how anyone could prefer to lodge in the Steps, Collossium, or Termini areas as opposed to Farnese/Via Giulia/Campo).
Did you happen to check out that wine/oil/pasta boutique on Via Giulia?? I think the all small shops in that general area have great, unique stuff, even if not always practical (like the toy store for pets).
