My Honeymoon - Trip report, South of France and Paris
Dec 7th, 2006, 06:56 AM
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My Honeymoon - Trip report, South of France and Paris
Its OK, I know I’m a very lucky woman “of a certain age”. I met a wonderful man and we fell in love and then we got married and left for our honeymoon on October 6th. He’s in his sixties and I’m in my fifties.
My husband is German, but chose to live in the US years ago. During our courting time, he’d tell me tales. One of them being that for years he rented a house for a month in the South of France. Perhaps you’ll find this funny…but I thought he said he rented in St. Tropez. When its time to plan the honeymoon, I booked us in St. Tropez because he loved it so much. Upon arriving there he asked why I had chosen St. Tropez.
“Because you said you loved it here and rented there years ago.” Says I
“I do love it, but I rented in St. Raphael.” Says he
“Oh… nevermind…!” Says I. (Anyone remember Emily Latella on Saturday Night Live?) We are both so conscious of the other’s feelings he thought I really wanted the glam of St. Tropez so he didn’t complain. I thought he wanted to share with me a favorite place! Ah love!
USAir had flights that were in line with what airfare’s are now.
Michael is a “preferred” AVIS customer so that was not problem. AVIS with partnership with HirePhone gives you 1 week free cell phone rental. (An aside: I’m a wussy and can’t remember how to drive a standard shift. It has been 40 years since I tried. I suggested to Michael that if he could get an automatic that would be GREAT because then I could drive as well. He could have gotten one. It would have been a big Mercedes; he would have had to have had an International Driver’s license. One week’s rental was over 1,200€. The flat was only 500€! I suggested we cancel the apartment and just sleep in the car.)
Prem fares obtained at sncf from CDG to St. Raphael… ét voila!
Uneventful flight over…a nice “gift” from the cosmos, Michael and I shared a row all by ourselves. THAT was indeed comfortable!
We had a 2 hour wait until the TVG swept us away to St. Raphael.
The train came, we whooshed away. Come to find out - it would have been A LOT less time in the TVG had we gotten off at Grimaud rather than go along the coast to St. Raphael. Next time, we’ll know. Because we will be back.
Couldn’t find the AVIS rental kiosk at the train station…but when we did they had been so excited about the upgrade to what appeared to me, huge, Renault Laguna. We had asked for a compact compact because we had planned on some day trips.
Anyway, with the help of Homelidays.com I had found a cute little charmer of a flat (No. 47652). October being off-season, we got it for a low rate and we dealt strictly with the owner. Sophie, the owner, is a charming woman. The apartment is above her home. While there is no view of the Bay or Mediterranean, out our windows was the beautiful countryside. It was quiet and lovely. Ah, what a pleasure to wake up to birds singing away… without the sound of the multitude of motorbikes and motorcycles that ABOUND in St. Tropez proper. It was heaven. A perfect place to “get away”, while 5 minutes away is the totally exotic, exciting, enchanting, beautiful, glamorous, pretty-peopled St. Tropez.
I enjoy having an apartment not just because of the extra space but because of a kitchen. This one did not have an oven, just a microwave I couldn’t get to work. At any rate, I was able to live out a fantasy of shopping the market on Tuesday morning and take my goodies “home” and prepare dinner! Crevettes, Belgian Endive, little fingerling potatoes, garlic, onions… and wine. Michael and I enjoyed lots and lots of beautiful Provencal rosés. He could sleep in and I’m always awake at 6ish. We didn’t disturb one or the other.
The day we arrived was the end of an annual boat race that had been run earlier that week. It was, I was told, antique sail boats that run from Positano to St. Tropez every year. OHMYGOODNESS…those were some sail boats! Breathtaking.
We never had a bad meal in St. Tropez. BUT we had the best meal at a beach-shack sort of place on Pamplonne Beach called “The Liberty”. Excellent…both in food and service. Sat in the sunshine, had a lovely lunch, music playing in the background, just a few families on the beach, a time I’ll remember for as long as I live.
While I’m at it, I never met one snooty, snappish, superior, supercilious, pompous or otherwise nasty French person the whole time we were there. WHERE and WHY does that myth perpetuate…?
After the big sail boats left, each leaving with a great fanfare of toots and horns blowing from the other boats moored there, the motored yachts pulled in. That is helluva lifestyle. These were registered from all over Europe.
I’d say for every car in St. Tropez there are 5 motor scooters or motorcycles. Everyone, even old teenagers (like Michael and me) drove them. Makes sense … small narrow streets, no parking, zip in … zip out …when you live there. I noted one tiny little old lady who had seen many seasons come and go, had her small white dog, purse, her bag of goods from the market all lined up on the floor-board of her scooter with her feet on either side holding everything on. Nice style.
But some of the cyclists have no fear (and I understand no lawful guidelines either). They zip in and zip out on blind curves, saw a couple of fellows pass a left turning car on the car’s LEFT. Anyway, scared me for them. Saw one “down” as well, he was moving about on the ground … I truly hope he is OK. I can imagine how the driver of the car must feel.
Another thing I loved, I loved the scents. The sea air; the smells from all of the restaurants; whiffs of the ladies’ perfumes.
Sometimes one has to do something to do to find out that one doesn’t LIKE it. I don’t like driving up to those hilltowns. Nope, I confess, I got freaked out (I did say earlier that I can be a wussy). Only fight we had on the honeymoon, was my getting on my shrill voice and demanding “Take me down. Take me down to the flatlands NOW.” When he didn’t, he drove around looking for parking space. Then I reverted to a prima-donna 7 year old and sulked. Nice behavior! I know, I know (sigh). I didn’t get to see the hilltown. Next time, a train or bus. Not that big car with a stick shift that Michael didn’t drive to well with that kept falling back down the road!
Wait? I did manage to enjoy Grasse. That counts as a hilltown, right?
Michael promised our landlady Sophie that we’ll return. She asked, “Next year?” Michael said “No, maybe 2 years.” I hope so!
From St. Tropez, Michael and I were in Paris for what he kindly referred to as my Paris “fix”. His niece and her family live in Paris close to the Port St. Cloud Metro. We had dinner at their home the last night of our stay. Our host had baked a whole salmon stuffed with cilantro and fennel fronds. Served it encircled with tiny potatoes and carrots. Delicious! But it was the first course! 4 Dozen beautiful, fresh, raw oysters. Their shells had been cracked but the oysters hadn’t be totally shucked. Oh my, oh-my…just a squeeze of lemon and a dash of pepper. Heaven. And then about 1 kilo of steamed crevettes. (When we had been invited, his niece didn’t exactly ask us specifically for dinner. So Michael and I had a “just in case” snack of Lyonnais Sausages and potatoes … with mustard” at one of the cafes. We were foolish. But that was delicious too!)
Thinking it was not too far away from their home, I choose the Monceau Wagram in the 17th. It isn’t even rated on TripAdvisor. And I’ll say that THAT was a VERY nice choice indeed. Small hotel, small rooms but all nicely appointed, nice large bath with a deep soaking tub and handheld shower, and glass shower door (for those that care about these things). Our room was on the top floor, the 5th floor with a wonderful view of the stylish apartment buildings (I’m a sucker for the chimney pots…I think). The street was pretty quiet all in all so we could have our windows open, and the nights were warm. Has anyone ever had a pigeon fly in their room? That neighborhood is predominately residential but of course with its share of cafes, bistros, shops, etc. They maintain a great thoughtful kind staff, who spoke English well; and the rate included a nice breakfast which could be served in your room or down in the breakfast room. The rate we paid was $75 a night. Three stars too.
On Sunday, Michael wanted to stroll the Champs Elysee. I had told him what the Fodorites say, and after walking the entire length of it in Sunday morning softly blurred sunshine, he agreed it has become a tad “commercial”.
In our neighborhood, Michael who loathes American pizza, ordered pizza at a place on Wagram called Pappagogo. He said it was one of the best he had ever tasted. It was good. Something about the crust. I had a salad with warm goat cheese.
So see? I’m blessed. The cosmos was thoughtful and we had terrific weather. Warmish sunny days and the nights chilled nicely, GREAT for sleeping.
I love France. I am a lucky lucky woman.
We laughed as we were talking about the next trip to Europe while on the flight home.
An apartment at Christmas in Germany somewhere?
Or next time, deeper Provence, Vauclaus, Luberon, (Arles, Aix, etc)
Hmmmm….
So much to see; so little time.
My husband is German, but chose to live in the US years ago. During our courting time, he’d tell me tales. One of them being that for years he rented a house for a month in the South of France. Perhaps you’ll find this funny…but I thought he said he rented in St. Tropez. When its time to plan the honeymoon, I booked us in St. Tropez because he loved it so much. Upon arriving there he asked why I had chosen St. Tropez.
“Because you said you loved it here and rented there years ago.” Says I
“I do love it, but I rented in St. Raphael.” Says he
“Oh… nevermind…!” Says I. (Anyone remember Emily Latella on Saturday Night Live?) We are both so conscious of the other’s feelings he thought I really wanted the glam of St. Tropez so he didn’t complain. I thought he wanted to share with me a favorite place! Ah love!
USAir had flights that were in line with what airfare’s are now.
Michael is a “preferred” AVIS customer so that was not problem. AVIS with partnership with HirePhone gives you 1 week free cell phone rental. (An aside: I’m a wussy and can’t remember how to drive a standard shift. It has been 40 years since I tried. I suggested to Michael that if he could get an automatic that would be GREAT because then I could drive as well. He could have gotten one. It would have been a big Mercedes; he would have had to have had an International Driver’s license. One week’s rental was over 1,200€. The flat was only 500€! I suggested we cancel the apartment and just sleep in the car.)
Prem fares obtained at sncf from CDG to St. Raphael… ét voila!
Uneventful flight over…a nice “gift” from the cosmos, Michael and I shared a row all by ourselves. THAT was indeed comfortable!
We had a 2 hour wait until the TVG swept us away to St. Raphael.
The train came, we whooshed away. Come to find out - it would have been A LOT less time in the TVG had we gotten off at Grimaud rather than go along the coast to St. Raphael. Next time, we’ll know. Because we will be back.
Couldn’t find the AVIS rental kiosk at the train station…but when we did they had been so excited about the upgrade to what appeared to me, huge, Renault Laguna. We had asked for a compact compact because we had planned on some day trips.
Anyway, with the help of Homelidays.com I had found a cute little charmer of a flat (No. 47652). October being off-season, we got it for a low rate and we dealt strictly with the owner. Sophie, the owner, is a charming woman. The apartment is above her home. While there is no view of the Bay or Mediterranean, out our windows was the beautiful countryside. It was quiet and lovely. Ah, what a pleasure to wake up to birds singing away… without the sound of the multitude of motorbikes and motorcycles that ABOUND in St. Tropez proper. It was heaven. A perfect place to “get away”, while 5 minutes away is the totally exotic, exciting, enchanting, beautiful, glamorous, pretty-peopled St. Tropez.
I enjoy having an apartment not just because of the extra space but because of a kitchen. This one did not have an oven, just a microwave I couldn’t get to work. At any rate, I was able to live out a fantasy of shopping the market on Tuesday morning and take my goodies “home” and prepare dinner! Crevettes, Belgian Endive, little fingerling potatoes, garlic, onions… and wine. Michael and I enjoyed lots and lots of beautiful Provencal rosés. He could sleep in and I’m always awake at 6ish. We didn’t disturb one or the other.
The day we arrived was the end of an annual boat race that had been run earlier that week. It was, I was told, antique sail boats that run from Positano to St. Tropez every year. OHMYGOODNESS…those were some sail boats! Breathtaking.
We never had a bad meal in St. Tropez. BUT we had the best meal at a beach-shack sort of place on Pamplonne Beach called “The Liberty”. Excellent…both in food and service. Sat in the sunshine, had a lovely lunch, music playing in the background, just a few families on the beach, a time I’ll remember for as long as I live.
While I’m at it, I never met one snooty, snappish, superior, supercilious, pompous or otherwise nasty French person the whole time we were there. WHERE and WHY does that myth perpetuate…?
After the big sail boats left, each leaving with a great fanfare of toots and horns blowing from the other boats moored there, the motored yachts pulled in. That is helluva lifestyle. These were registered from all over Europe.
I’d say for every car in St. Tropez there are 5 motor scooters or motorcycles. Everyone, even old teenagers (like Michael and me) drove them. Makes sense … small narrow streets, no parking, zip in … zip out …when you live there. I noted one tiny little old lady who had seen many seasons come and go, had her small white dog, purse, her bag of goods from the market all lined up on the floor-board of her scooter with her feet on either side holding everything on. Nice style.
But some of the cyclists have no fear (and I understand no lawful guidelines either). They zip in and zip out on blind curves, saw a couple of fellows pass a left turning car on the car’s LEFT. Anyway, scared me for them. Saw one “down” as well, he was moving about on the ground … I truly hope he is OK. I can imagine how the driver of the car must feel.
Another thing I loved, I loved the scents. The sea air; the smells from all of the restaurants; whiffs of the ladies’ perfumes.
Sometimes one has to do something to do to find out that one doesn’t LIKE it. I don’t like driving up to those hilltowns. Nope, I confess, I got freaked out (I did say earlier that I can be a wussy). Only fight we had on the honeymoon, was my getting on my shrill voice and demanding “Take me down. Take me down to the flatlands NOW.” When he didn’t, he drove around looking for parking space. Then I reverted to a prima-donna 7 year old and sulked. Nice behavior! I know, I know (sigh). I didn’t get to see the hilltown. Next time, a train or bus. Not that big car with a stick shift that Michael didn’t drive to well with that kept falling back down the road!
Wait? I did manage to enjoy Grasse. That counts as a hilltown, right?
Michael promised our landlady Sophie that we’ll return. She asked, “Next year?” Michael said “No, maybe 2 years.” I hope so!
From St. Tropez, Michael and I were in Paris for what he kindly referred to as my Paris “fix”. His niece and her family live in Paris close to the Port St. Cloud Metro. We had dinner at their home the last night of our stay. Our host had baked a whole salmon stuffed with cilantro and fennel fronds. Served it encircled with tiny potatoes and carrots. Delicious! But it was the first course! 4 Dozen beautiful, fresh, raw oysters. Their shells had been cracked but the oysters hadn’t be totally shucked. Oh my, oh-my…just a squeeze of lemon and a dash of pepper. Heaven. And then about 1 kilo of steamed crevettes. (When we had been invited, his niece didn’t exactly ask us specifically for dinner. So Michael and I had a “just in case” snack of Lyonnais Sausages and potatoes … with mustard” at one of the cafes. We were foolish. But that was delicious too!)
Thinking it was not too far away from their home, I choose the Monceau Wagram in the 17th. It isn’t even rated on TripAdvisor. And I’ll say that THAT was a VERY nice choice indeed. Small hotel, small rooms but all nicely appointed, nice large bath with a deep soaking tub and handheld shower, and glass shower door (for those that care about these things). Our room was on the top floor, the 5th floor with a wonderful view of the stylish apartment buildings (I’m a sucker for the chimney pots…I think). The street was pretty quiet all in all so we could have our windows open, and the nights were warm. Has anyone ever had a pigeon fly in their room? That neighborhood is predominately residential but of course with its share of cafes, bistros, shops, etc. They maintain a great thoughtful kind staff, who spoke English well; and the rate included a nice breakfast which could be served in your room or down in the breakfast room. The rate we paid was $75 a night. Three stars too.
On Sunday, Michael wanted to stroll the Champs Elysee. I had told him what the Fodorites say, and after walking the entire length of it in Sunday morning softly blurred sunshine, he agreed it has become a tad “commercial”.
In our neighborhood, Michael who loathes American pizza, ordered pizza at a place on Wagram called Pappagogo. He said it was one of the best he had ever tasted. It was good. Something about the crust. I had a salad with warm goat cheese.
So see? I’m blessed. The cosmos was thoughtful and we had terrific weather. Warmish sunny days and the nights chilled nicely, GREAT for sleeping.
I love France. I am a lucky lucky woman.
We laughed as we were talking about the next trip to Europe while on the flight home.
An apartment at Christmas in Germany somewhere?
Or next time, deeper Provence, Vauclaus, Luberon, (Arles, Aix, etc)
Hmmmm….
So much to see; so little time.
Dec 7th, 2006, 08:01 AM
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Loved this report! Congrats to both of you...I found "Mr wonderful" in my 40's and have had the most blissful 8 years ever. AND he loves to travel! I totally fell apart about the "St Tropez" story...lol. I can't remember which movie it was where they went to Morocco instead of Monaco (she got it wrong) and they end up with sand, monkeys, etc...really funny. Have a great life and enjoy planning all those many many trips together!
Dec 7th, 2006, 08:16 AM
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Oh LLindaC, I was going to tell that story about Monaco/Morocco! It was an episode of the Bob Newhart Show (the second one that took place in Vermont.)
Only two travelers could remember something so obscure as that
Only two travelers could remember something so obscure as that
Jun 1st, 2009, 07:40 PM
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<b>Best wishes on your marriage, Suzie!</b>
I was looking over some of my old trip reports this weekend...and much to my chagrin, I found that I had promised you some pics on my followng thread (do you recall?)...and I never came through..how embarrassing...so here are the pics also:
<b>The old thread:</b>
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...l-may-2006.cfm
<b>The promised pics: (only three years later..mea culpa!)</b>
http://picasaweb.google.com/stuartto...enceBarge2006#
http://picasaweb.google.com/stuartto...ndParis2006II#
http://picasaweb.google.com/stuartto...SelectedPhoto#
Again, congratulations and much happiness!
Stu Tower
I was looking over some of my old trip reports this weekend...and much to my chagrin, I found that I had promised you some pics on my followng thread (do you recall?)...and I never came through..how embarrassing...so here are the pics also:
<b>The old thread:</b>
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...l-may-2006.cfm
<b>The promised pics: (only three years later..mea culpa!)</b>
http://picasaweb.google.com/stuartto...enceBarge2006#
http://picasaweb.google.com/stuartto...ndParis2006II#
http://picasaweb.google.com/stuartto...SelectedPhoto#
Again, congratulations and much happiness!
Stu Tower
Jun 1st, 2009, 07:44 PM
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Jul 2nd, 2011, 08:14 AM
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I still laugh at the Bob Newhart Monaco/Morocco episode - and the famous lines.
To get the joke you have to understand that Bob has resisted this trip from the start having been station in Morocco during the war.
This scene takes place on the airplane just as it is about to take off...
"I can't wait to see Princess Grace..."
"Why would we see her?"
"She lives there..."
"Princess Grace lives in Monaco."
"Where are we going?"
"Morocco"
"Where the hell is that?"
"In the desert.."
"Oh heck I am not going there..."
She gets up and leaves the plane but Bob is to late to follow her and is forced to make the trip by himself...
End credits....
To get the joke you have to understand that Bob has resisted this trip from the start having been station in Morocco during the war.
This scene takes place on the airplane just as it is about to take off...
"I can't wait to see Princess Grace..."
"Why would we see her?"
"She lives there..."
"Princess Grace lives in Monaco."
"Where are we going?"
"Morocco"
"Where the hell is that?"
"In the desert.."
"Oh heck I am not going there..."
She gets up and leaves the plane but Bob is to late to follow her and is forced to make the trip by himself...
End credits....
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