Not a trip report but just some comments about a couple of new things from our recent trip to France, 10/11-10/25. The Delta non-stop flight from PIT was lots better than our usual plane change on USAirways in PHL. We spent the first five days in Paris and then off for a week in the medieval village of Riquewihr.
We discovered a great little restaurant, Cafe de la Tourelle, at 5, rue Hautefeuille, in the 6th, very near Place St. Michel. It’s in an historic building that used to be a hotel particulier. We ate there twice during the week (b/c we liked the food and also the two minute walk from our hotel) and then again our last night after we arrived back in Paris from Strasbourg. The menu is 24 euro, and that includes entree, plat, and dessert. I’ve forgotten all the choices but will mention the ones we either tried or that made an impression. Entrees: green salad, poached egg with roquefort sauce, asparagus terrine, foie gras. Plats: porc aux pruneaux, porc with braised carrots, boeuf bourguignon, blanquette de veau, gratin of endive with ham, entrecote, lapin. And funny how I remember more desserts: chocolate sublime, gateau marron, ile flottante, gateau au riz, fresh fruit with cassis, opera, creme caramel. We didn’t hear anyone else speaking English any of the times we were there. No reservations so go early; it is small. Friendly owner and his wife run the restaurant.
A couple from SC were staying in our hotel , and they mentioned that they were going to the American Library of Paris to hear a speaker one night. I might have just passed on this, but the couple we were traveling with were eager to go, so we went and enjoyed it immensely. The speaker was Philippe Labro, who is a 70-some year old journalist who still writes a weekly column for Le Figaro; he spoke about his year as a scholarship student at Washington and Lee back in the 50ies and the culture shock he experienced. The talk was based in part on his book about this experience, and it was an amusing (mentioned fraternities, drinking, learning to smile--and this latter brought knowing giggles from the audience, mostly ex-pats, my guess) as well as thoughtful delivery about some of the differences between our two cultures. The Library is in the 7th, on ave. de General Camou. I will look at the calendar of events next time I am in Paris.
Cafe Constant and Les Cocottes are very close to the Library, but we were too late to get a table at either, unfortunately. And this is how we ended up at La Tourelle the second time.
In Alsace we stayed in a wonderful house built into the ramparts of the old town of Riquewihr. It had been restored according to strict regulations (the owner said you didn’t drive a nail in without getting permission!), and whereas it had modern conveniences (memory foam mattresses, Nespresso machine, etc.), the renovation maintained the integrity of the original building, using as much from before as possible, such as the exposed ceiling beams. www.i-love-riquewihr.com
We stayed in Le Colombier, which has two bedrooms, two bathrooms, kitchen, salon, and “stub”. Riquewihr is very touristy in the afternoon but quite lovely and simple in the morning and evening, before and after the shops with the stuffed animal storks are open
. We went every morning to the boulangerie, a one minute walk from our front door, to buy our fresh bread just like the local folks. And the best winery, Frederic Engel et Fils, was just across the tiny cobblestoned street from us. Our landlord had a bottle of Engel’s 2007 Pinot Blanc waiting in the fridge for us. We had a delicious dinner at Le Sarment d’Or our last night in Riquewihr. The amuse-bouche was a little foamy cheese concoction served in a tiny glass. We had something similar in the hotel restaurant Chambard in Kaysersberg, another village we found very interesting. And the Alsace sejour review would not be complete without a few words about the giant supermarket , CORA,in Houssen, outside Colmar, where I was so impressed with, among other things, the large selection of fromage blanc, something that is hit or miss in the markets here at home.
And speaking of Nespresso machines, what’s with their stores in Paris with the lines out the door? Think Pierre Herme or Laduree, only people lined up to buy coffee capsules! Or maybe the capsule boutiques are everywhere but here in Pittsburgh?
Book Your Next Trip
Check hotel rates and airfares around the world.
Find a great deal?
Tell us about it.
Hotels
Flights
Packages
Cars
Musing About Recent Trip to France
40 Replies | Jump to last reply
|40 Replies |Back to top
|Sign in to comment.
Recent Activity
View all Europe activity »
- 1 21 days itinerary South to North
- 2 Vienna Christmas Market and Restaurant Tips
- 3 Elevator Eifel Tower
- 4 Is there a Paris version of the Hoxton Hotel in London?
- 5 Great place to stay in Sicily/Taormina
- 6 Paris - Nov 3 - Dec 14
- 7 BA Club in LHR - Does it have a quiet room to sleep?
- 8 Munich airport train or bus to Le Meridien hotel
- 9 My experience with the French Heath Care System
- 10 One Night in Riomaggiore
- 11 Looking For Edinburgh Military Tattoo Ticket Buying Tips
- 12 Istanbul airport to Inter Continental hotel
- 13 three nights from Paris, by train, no car, village/small town, walking
- 14 French Riviera towns
- 15 Frankfurt/Amsterdam
- 16 Flooding in the UK Lake District and Ireland
- 17 Rome Shuttle Limousine - WATCH OUT!
- 18 New Years in London
- 19 What is your favourite British saying?
- 20 London airport to hotel and suggestions
- 21 Hotel in Sorrento
- 22 Value-Added-Taxes in Europe Average 19.8%
- 23
Amsterdam Planner for the Clueless & Clued
- 24 Trieste to Venice - is there a Ferry or do I need to catch a train?
- 25 Berlin trip
Trip Ideas
Maybe they're hoping to run into George Clooney -- he's the one who does the commercials shown in France.
Kerouac, can these capsules be bought only in these stores? That might explain why our landlord in Riquewihr offered the option of buying them from him when we rented the house.
Grandmere, your trip sounds lovely.
Re the Espresso machines, we have the George Clooney ads here in Sydney and here too, there are queues out the street at the Nespresso shop.
Hi Sue I'm very happy you enjoyed your stay in France. Le Colombier looks perfect. As for Nespresso there are only a few shops which sell the capsules. http://www1.nespresso.com/precom/contact/all_boutique_fr_fr.html (The shops in Dijon only sell the machines so I have to order them on the internet)
<our landlord in Riquewihr offered the option of buying them from him when we rented the house> Do you mean you had the machine at your disposal but had to buy the capsules?
Sue,
I'm so glad that you enjoyed Jean-Paul and Martines place in Riquewhir. They are such nice friends and do things so nicely.
Re Nespresso: I stay in the www.parisperfect.com apartments in Paris and they have the Nespresso machines. They provide a basket with many capsules in the various colors. They also list 4 Nespresso boutiques in Paris where you are able to
purchase additonal capsules. I imagine that Sue's apt. came with some capsules and then you would need to purcahse additional ones. I imagine Jean-Paul had a supply from which you could purchase?
Joan
Hi GM,

>And speaking of Nespresso machines, what’s with their stores in Paris .....<
I went into one a month or so ago. It was a huge, 2 story building very much like a melange of a museum, an antique art gallery and Louis Vuitton.
People spoke in hushed tones as sales staff offered tiny cups of what must have been the nectar of the gods to some. (Tasted like coffee to me.)
Prices were outrageous.
grandmere,
I love your reports and they've been so helpful to me as I plan for the week I'll be in Paris with my 9 y.o. daughter in December including the apartment we're staying in and helpful hints on shopping!. In your report from your April trip you mention visiting a restaurant, Le Train Bleu. I am wanting one "sparkly, dress-up, make her feel special" night for us - would you recommend this? Thank you.
Thanks for your non-report! I remember reading Philippe Labro's book about his college experience (L'etudiant etranger) years ago. Always interesting to see what we look like to others. I would have enjoyed seeing him in person.
Thanks for the tip about the American Library of Paris. My daughter and I will be spending a month in Paris this summer and we are compiling a varied list of potential activities. Though we are hoping to become immersed in the culture, an evening such as you described might be enjoyable as well.
So this Nespresso thing is really a phenomenon! Where do we buy the coffee here in US? I've never paid any attention to it but have seen the machines, etc., at Williams-Sonoma. I think our landlord provided some capsules and we bought the rest from his supply. And, Coco, nobody stocks the apartments as you do; your style is exceptional!
Travelingmom3, what a great trip that will be for you and your daughter; you must be getting so excited as time draws near. Yes, I think Le Train Bleu is just the place for what you want. The staff acted as though it was a special night for us, and my granddaughter loved it. I will be eager to hear all about your trip when you return. And you mentioned an apartment--did you mean that you're staying in vrbo 58971 as we did?
Thank you grandmere - I am now excited about one more thing! We are staying in VBRO 103254, the garden apartment in the 11th that I think you stayed in?
Actually, as I just looked back over some postings it was ParisJo who recommended this apartment. Sorry.
You gite looks lovely grandmere!
Nespresso capsules are really expensive here in the Netherlands (€0.35 - €0.40 per capsule), so I would be pleasantly surprised to find some provided at a house I rented, but not disappointed to find I had to buy my own.
I use a proper espresso machine and a grinder and buy my beans from a local coffee roaster, which works out at less than €0.02 per cup even for their more expensive coffees.
Is is time to mention the fact that the Nespresso system has been branded an ecological disaster?
Barbara, it was very interesting seeing him and hearing what he had to say. His talk was entitled "My Love Affair with America", and he used the different stages of a love affair as an analogy. It looks as though L'Etudiant Etranger is the only book of his that has been translated into Eng., acc. to Amazon. I think I will get it; would like to say I will try the French version but I will probably take the easy way.
If you're in Paris for a month, I imagine you'll find something interesting to attend there; as I mentioned I was lukewarm on the idea but pleasantly surprised.
Flounder, I justified going to an "American library" by the fact that the speaker was French
website is www.americanlibraryiniparis.org
This whole Nespresso thing is amazing, and I can see what you mean about the ecological disaster, Kerouac.
The gite really was very comfortable as well as being nicely appointed in an authentic Alsatian way, and JoanGrace was the one who recommended it.
Travelingmom3, your apartment looks lovely; what a great place for you and your daughter. I'm not real familiar with that part of Paris but would like to get to know it better.
You may have a chuckle over this: my granddaughter loved her pain au chocolat every morning in Paris, and that was something she wanted me to bring back from this trip. So there i was at Paul's at CDG early in the morning of our return, buying 2 pains au chocolat to go, stuffing them in my husband's carry on, and Chloe and her brother enjoyed them hours later just as though they weren't a bit crushed and soggy.
This is turning into a report after all; just can't keep quiet when it comes to talking about France! Anyway, some of you may remember the big debate a few month ago about macarons in France. Well, I was one who insisted that French macarons are all like Laduree's, but no--in Alsace they are like our macaroons, made from coconut and very different from the ones in Paris.
If you take a GPS to France and it asks what address you want in a village, just put in Avenue de General de Gaulle, and you can't go wrong.
Thanks to everyone for all your kind comments.
Thank you Sue, as ususal an interesting and welcoming information.
For my last trip to Paris I thought ahead and packed a small plastic container in my suitcase. On my last morning I visited my favorite bakery http://www.poilane.fr/ one last time and loaded up on pain au chocolat so jetlag would be less painful once I arrived home.
We get Polaines bread here in Boston at a few shops.
grandmere----did you ever get to "Mini Junior" the childrens shop on Montparnasse & Raspail?
cigalechanta----how lucky you are to get Polaines in Boston. They've tried to do some authentic bread and pastry in our area but it's never measured up.
TPAYT, no, I did not get to "Mini Junior" but I did happen upon C de C; (rue de Bac?) isn't that the one you mentioned, also? Beautiful little outfits there.
Amwosu, what a good idea to take a container along. Next time.
Yes, in the east of France "macarons" refers to coconut macaroons. Coconut macaroons are called "congolais" in Paris.
Thanks Grandmere. Fun mini-report. Great info on the places in Riqwhir. They look terrific. Love Alsace. Also love my Nespresso machine and the whole Nespresso thing. They haven't caught on so much in the US yet, but they are all over in hotels in Europe. Remember when you were a young girl scout and had to make decorations for the town Christmas tree out of chicken pot pie tins. Think of making strings of faux Christmas tree lights out of those little leftover Nespresso capsules in all their wonderful colors. I'm betting they're recyclable. Though I must admit that I hadn't thought about the ecological aspect of the whole phenomena. Whatever, this company knows their business. Last night I had a call from the Nespresso people conducting a customer survey. I'm guessing that because I haven't mail ordered any capsules lately they were worried about losing me as a customer. They probably have mail order customers on some kind of data base to determine approx. when you should be reordering. Actually we've been on the road so much that I just haven't used up my last supply as quickly as I normally would. This whole thing is kind of like Tivo. Those of us who are hooked are true zealots. It certainly beats that awful Nescafe stuff that Europeans seem to hang onto.
JulieV, interesting thought about recycling the Nespresso capsules for Christmas decorations; maybe Martha will come up with an idea
How are your plans for the Alps coming along?
Hi Sue. So glad I caught your post. I was wondering just yesterday if you had written anything.
My brother has two of those machines in New York and he is on a mail order rotation which sends him various combinations of flavors so often. He always takes them out of the boxes they are packed in and I never remember which are the decaf! I do not know where the order is shipped from. We don't recycle them I don't think and it seems a shame. All of those little colored metal capsules.
Even in Lisbon I came upon a store.
Great musings! I"ve had that apartment earmarked for a while, hoping to get back to Alsace one day. I'm glad that you enjoyed it, it certainly looks lovely .
We rented an apartment in the south of France this summer and it had the Nespresso machine, enough of capsules for a few days, we could buy a box of 10 capsules from the landlord for 5E, she had a huge selection.
I have drank good french pressed coffee for more than 50 years, have never found anything I like better than a extremely hot cup of my french press, and I drink a lot of morning coffee and have since I was about 4years old...yeah I know, bad mother, but we're Italian and back then it must have just been easier to give me a little cup of coffee with a lot of milk than argue every morning.
When we returned, our morning coffee just didn't taste good anymore. We had to order a Nespresso machine, we absolutely love the coffee. We order it online, if I order today it is on my front porch tomorrow. Yes, it is expensive, about $.50 a capsule/cup, and I think $6.95 shipping no matter how much I order. They do have a Nespresso Bar at the Bloomingdales in downtown SF,but we can't buy the capsules there, although that might have changed now, it is just so easy to order on line.
It is a delicious cup of joe!
Well the new commercial has both George Clooney and John Malkovich.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ODB9xXLZ2oE
I can see that I shoulda gone into a Nespresso boutique.
And maybe I need a machine!
Grandmere, put a Nespresso on your Christmas list. You won't regret it.
I'm not doing well on my Alps planning. We have the flights of course and the hotels, but I'm arguing with DH about renting a car or not. I say yes. He says no. Of course, he's the one who drives and if it's snowy, icy, etc. I can hardly blame him for not wanting to drive. OTOH we can certainly see more if we have our own wheels. Thanks. Your question may be just the impetus I need to get going on this.
Thank you so much for your musings. Makes me want to go to France all over again. So much France, so little time......
I could have been sighted today in Williams-Sonoma checking out Nespresso machines. The sales associate had nothing but good things to say about them
.

And if you buy the machine plus the frother/foamer together in a "bundle", you save money.
grandmere,
I appreciate your musings.
I've made a note of your restaurant recommendation, Cafe de la Tourelle. Thanks. You mentioned that your hotel was about a two minute walk away. Is this a place you would also recommend? If so, what's the name and price range? I've apparently missed out on a few posts so was wondering what the shop C de C offered. Children's clothing? Is it pricey? Most likely.
Historytraveler, the hotel is Hotel du Lys www.hoteldulys.com
I (and others to whom I've recommended it) have stayed there several times. It is 120 euro for a double, and I have always thought it was a great little hotel for the money. On Trip Advisor you will read reviews all over the place. This time, however, our carpet really needed a shampooing, and that's the first time I would have said this. We were on the first floor (French), and our friends stayed up another level, and their room was much nicer.
On the plus side, it is in a super location (two minutes walk from both Odeon and St. Michel metro stations) and it is housed in a building that dates from the 17th century, with original exposed beams, etc. No elevator. Breakfast ( beverage, oj, fresh, crispy croissant, baguette, jam, etc.) is included in the price. It has been run by the same family for a couple of generations. The woman (second generation owner) whom I've always dealt with before was cordial but not especially friendly; her son seems to mostly run it now, and he was very helpful. In fact, it was he who said that his grandfather was the original owner of the hotel.
I know the word "charming" is overused, but it certainly does have a certain charm about it; check it out on website. I would still recommend the hotel as long as someone is not looking for upscale. I will probably stay there again.
I don't know where I read about Cordelia de Castellane's children's store; I thought it was on TPAYT's post of a couple of months ago but just looked, and it's not there. It was a bit expensive but not as high priced as BonPoint, Tartine et Chocolat, etc. As I mentioned on an earlier thread, now that I have 3 grandchildren, I have taken to looking for less expensive places to buy their outfits from Paris. I now shop at Du Pareil Au Meme and find outfits that my grandchildren (and their mothers!) like. They have cute, trendy styles that are reasonably priced, and they have shops all over Paris. Granddaughter #! had the advantage of a grand-mere who was eager to buy fetching outfits with less regard for the price tag, and of course, 7 years ago the dollar was stronger, too!
Thank you for all the information. I'll certainly check out the hotel and the restaurant is already on my list.
I'll have a look at CdC, BonPoint and Du Pareil Meme. I love shopping for the grandkids,especially my lovely Natalie. However her mother seems to find absolutely adorable outfits at Costco etc. at unbelievable prices, so Granna feels a bit silly spending more.
i agree; it's lots of fun to shop for grandkiddies. Everything always looks wonderful on them, n'est-ce pas?
Jacadi, Catamini, and the dept. stores are other great places to find beautiful children's clothing. And TPAYT mentioned a place on Blvd. Montparnasse and Raspail called Mini Junior; I've never been there.
When are you going?
We'll be in Paris this coming September. I've been to Paris a number of times, but not recently, so looking forward to the trip. Of course now it is going to be much more fun shopping for the grandkiddies than it is shopping for myself. How did that happen?
historytraveler----Mini Junior on Montparnasse & Raspail is my favorite childrens shop (for granddaughters 4 yrs and 8 yrs.) Rue Vavin from Motparnasse to Luxemborg Gardens (about a 3 block stretch) has many childrens shops to choose from.
I agree that I enjoy shopping for them more than myself and I also don't know how that happened except that they are SO CUTE.
Anybody who has just one shot at children's clothing stores (and who likes shopping malls for the convenience) might consider taking the RER A out to Val d'Europe, which has an entire large corridor devoted exclusively to all of the main children's brands. And since they are right next to the Auchan hypermarket, prices are competitive with that place rather than with each other.
kerouac, what a tip! Thanks. My daughter will be forever indebted and her children will be well clothed as a result.
kerouac, which direction on the RER A is Val d'Europe? Is that an actual RER stop? Thanks.
Julie:
http://www.ratp.info/orienter/f_plan.php?fm=gif&loc=reseaux&nompdf=rer_a&lang=
It's the next-to-last stop before Disney, east of Paris, on the A4 line.