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          Musing About Recent Trip to France

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          Not a trip report but just some comments about a couple of new things from our recent trip to France, 10/11-10/25. The Delta non-stop flight from PIT was lots better than our usual plane change on USAirways in PHL. We spent the first five days in Paris and then off for a week in the medieval village of Riquewihr.

          We discovered a great little restaurant, Cafe de la Tourelle, at 5, rue Hautefeuille, in the 6th, very near Place St. Michel. It’s in an historic building that used to be a hotel particulier. We ate there twice during the week (b/c we liked the food and also the two minute walk from our hotel) and then again our last night after we arrived back in Paris from Strasbourg. The menu is 24 euro, and that includes entree, plat, and dessert. I’ve forgotten all the choices but will mention the ones we either tried or that made an impression. Entrees: green salad, poached egg with roquefort sauce, asparagus terrine, foie gras. Plats: porc aux pruneaux, porc with braised carrots, boeuf bourguignon, blanquette de veau, gratin of endive with ham, entrecote, lapin. And funny how I remember more desserts: chocolate sublime, gateau marron, ile flottante, gateau au riz, fresh fruit with cassis, opera, creme caramel. We didn’t hear anyone else speaking English any of the times we were there. No reservations so go early; it is small. Friendly owner and his wife run the restaurant.

          A couple from SC were staying in our hotel , and they mentioned that they were going to the American Library of Paris to hear a speaker one night. I might have just passed on this, but the couple we were traveling with were eager to go, so we went and enjoyed it immensely. The speaker was Philippe Labro, who is a 70-some year old journalist who still writes a weekly column for Le Figaro; he spoke about his year as a scholarship student at Washington and Lee back in the 50ies and the culture shock he experienced. The talk was based in part on his book about this experience, and it was an amusing (mentioned fraternities, drinking, learning to smile--and this latter brought knowing giggles from the audience, mostly ex-pats, my guess) as well as thoughtful delivery about some of the differences between our two cultures. The Library is in the 7th, on ave. de General Camou. I will look at the calendar of events next time I am in Paris.
          Cafe Constant and Les Cocottes are very close to the Library, but we were too late to get a table at either, unfortunately. And this is how we ended up at La Tourelle the second time.

          In Alsace we stayed in a wonderful house built into the ramparts of the old town of Riquewihr. It had been restored according to strict regulations (the owner said you didn’t drive a nail in without getting permission!), and whereas it had modern conveniences (memory foam mattresses, Nespresso machine, etc.), the renovation maintained the integrity of the original building, using as much from before as possible, such as the exposed ceiling beams. www.i-love-riquewihr.com
          We stayed in Le Colombier, which has two bedrooms, two bathrooms, kitchen, salon, and “stub”. Riquewihr is very touristy in the afternoon but quite lovely and simple in the morning and evening, before and after the shops with the stuffed animal storks are open :-) . We went every morning to the boulangerie, a one minute walk from our front door, to buy our fresh bread just like the local folks. And the best winery, Frederic Engel et Fils, was just across the tiny cobblestoned street from us. Our landlord had a bottle of Engel’s 2007 Pinot Blanc waiting in the fridge for us. We had a delicious dinner at Le Sarment d’Or our last night in Riquewihr. The amuse-bouche was a little foamy cheese concoction served in a tiny glass. We had something similar in the hotel restaurant Chambard in Kaysersberg, another village we found very interesting. And the Alsace sejour review would not be complete without a few words about the giant supermarket , CORA,in Houssen, outside Colmar, where I was so impressed with, among other things, the large selection of fromage blanc, something that is hit or miss in the markets here at home.

          And speaking of Nespresso machines, what’s with their stores in Paris with the lines out the door? Think Pierre Herme or Laduree, only people lined up to buy coffee capsules! Or maybe the capsule boutiques are everywhere but here in Pittsburgh?

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