Mozzarella, Museums, and Macchiato; Four Friends Spend Another Week in Rome

Planning:
To be honest, I didn't do my usual obsessive-compulsive planning for this trip. First, we had spent a week in Rome only 18 months prior so most of the research was done. Second, I had a 2 week trip to Vietnam in July which took up most of my planning time. And thirdly, we just wanted to make this a more relaxing trip.

For our last trip I had scheduled one "event" (museum, tour, or day trip) for each day. For this one, the only thing I booked in advance was a private tour of "Underground Rome" with Katie Parla (www.katieparla.com) and tried to figure out what to see in a 3 day time span to make the best use of the Roma Passes we intended to buy.
I researched going out to Tivoli on our own (included in the Roma e Piu Pass) but we ended up not going after we determined that it was just too much effort. Also, when we went to buy the Roma e Piu Pass from the information kiosk in Trastevere we were told they had to be reserved in advance and we would not be able to buy them anywhere. This is a little fact I did not see anywhere on the Roma Pass website.
So, other than the 1/2 day tour with Katie, and a loose list of museums, we had nothing concrete planned going into our week in Rome.

Finally, I want to give a shout out to a great website which is loaded with practical information on Rome called www.roninrome.com Ron gave me some great advice about getting to Tivoli, though unfortunately I wasn't able to use it on this trip.

Packing:
I usually travel carry-on only. However, my friends would be checking their bags, so my mother and I decided to do the same. I was able to check my usual carry-on 22" roll-aboard, and carry on a smaller rolling bag along with a day bag which held my camera.
My packing lists can be found here http://www.wired2theworld.com/BasicPacklist.html

Photography
I took 1010 photos in 7 days. I use a Nikon D40x DSLR and will be posting links to photos on my website as I go. I process all the photos through Photoshop Elements before putting them on my website and this takes more time than the writing (so please be patient with me!)

Technology
I travel with an old Toshiba 2 lb laptop. As I said above, I like having it with me to keep in touch and I was happy I was able to see my husband face to face via webcam on Skype every day. I also tried to download my photos to the laptop every day as a backup.

Personal Guidebook
From the information I put on a Google Map I made of Rome (restaurants and sightseeing) and information cut and pasted from various trip reports here (thanks to all of you who posted here before me), I created my own "guidebook" for Rome when we went last year.
This time, I updated it with our prior trip experiences and added new restaurant info on Trastevere and other neighborhoods we planned to explore. I arranged it by area or neighborhood, so if we were in some place and want to stop for a meal, it would be easy to find something.

This trip I took my Travel OCD one step further and printed out 7 pages of my Google maps to go along with each neighborhood. Then I manually numbered every item (all 115 of them!) on the maps so we could easily find each place.

The organization took a lot of time, but was really useful in the end. We rarely planned to go to a specific place to eat, but rather, would pull out my notes and walk to the closest place which looked good. Most of the time this worked well; there were a few times we got lost (Google is not perfect) or found four places in a row closed for lunch (opening hours tended to be missing from my notes). You can see my map at
http://www.wired2theworld.com/Rome2009.html

Flying Delta
I admit I've been spoiled in the last few years. Almost every time I've flown it's been either in Business Class (tickets or upgrades gained with FF Miles) or at minimum in Economy Plus which offers extra legroom.

I was not prepared for the bone-crunching, soul-sucking experience of Delta's "Economy" (read, "Cattle") Class. I'm just shy of 5', 4" tall and I have no idea how anyone taller can withstand it. The seats only recline about 2" and when the person in front of you reclines it is impossible to reach the bag under the seat in front of you. The food is barely edible. I recommend bringing snacks along.

The only positive is that the interior of the planes have recently been renovated and the seats, while tiny and close together, have new blue leather upholstery and individual seat back screens with video-on-demand. This meant that though I could not sleep, I was able to watch over 10 movies and shows (with the ability to start and pause on demand) during our trip there and back.

If you are interested in my trip from last year where we hit a lot of the major tourist highlights not covered on this trip (Vatican Museum, Scavi Tour, Orvieto, Ostia Antica, etc.), you can check it out here on Fodor’s, or with photos on my website at http://www.wired2theworld.com/ROME2008.html

Now, on to the trip…

hi kristina,

I've been so impressed by your website, which I've referred to a lot planning our Feb trip to Rome, so I'm really looking to your trip report.

thanks,

ann

Can't wait for more! Rome is one of my favorite cities in the world, and I love reading trip reports.

Kristina,
Looking forward to your trip report and photos. I would love to take the Underground Rome tour when we are there in May.
Judy

Sunday, October 11, 2009

The day had begun almost 36 hours earlier with the alarm going off at 2:45 am on the 10th of October. What followed was a haze of airports, airplanes, bad food, a ride into the city worthy of Mario Andretti, and a near-fainting. Fortunately, the day ended with the surprise of a catholic procession through our neighborhood and a lovely meal filled with laughter and hearty discussion among friends.

LAX-JFK-FCO
Because our flight is scheduled to leave at 6:10 am, I am up at 2:45 (yes, ouch!) for a 3:30am departure from my house. We arrive at the airport at 4:15 and because we've checked in online the day before, we are able to get in a different line to just check our bags.

Going through security still feels like undressing; Coat, scarf, shoes, belt, liquids, laptop, bag, purse, all come off and go through the x-ray machine.
Hold on to that boarding pass!
Put it all back together on the other side.
Careful, don't forget anything!

At LAX, there is only one place open in Terminal 5 before 5am, and oddly, it's not a Starbucks. My mom buys us coffee and I pass out the bagels and cream cheese I have brought for our breakfast.
The flight from LAX to JFK is 100% full and I am thankful I have an aisle seat. At JFK we have a couple of hours and walk around the terminal in search of someplace we can sit down to eat. Unfortunately, the only place is Chili’s. We sit and eat. 'Nuf said.
The flight to Rome is also full and I end up watching movies to pass the time, unable to sleep.

We arrive in Rome almost an hour ahead of schedule and have no problem going through immigration, getting our bags and clearing customs. The driver from Rome Cabs (www.romecabs.com) is there and waiting for us. He's not familiar with the street our apartment is on, but I'm able to show it to him on a map.
Zoooooom! Off we go!
It's a whirlwind ride into the city. We arrive at our apartment at 8:30 am, a full hour and a half before the scheduled time we are supposed to meet the owner.

Yay! Your trip reports are among my favorites! Look forward to all the details.

Oh goody, this is great! Thanks so much for posting.

Thanks everyone for the nice comments and encouragement.

Day 1, continued...
My mom and I take a wander around the neighborhood and can't find anything open where we can sit with our luggage for an hour or so. It's a Sunday morning and other than one small bakery (with no tables), nothing is open. We decide I will call the apartment owner at 9am.
At about that time, a car comes down our street and I say to Jess, "I want that car to stop and have it be the people to let us in." The car stops. It's the owners. The owner, S., says to me, "the agency didn't tell me what time you were arriving!"
Hmmm....I only confirmed this with the agency twice.

There are people upstairs in the apartment, but S. and her husband graciously allow us to go upstairs and drop our bags after the other renters leave. S. is dismayed we have to see the apartment messy. I'm just happy we can ditch our bags.

While we are there, we deal with the payment and discover I am 45 euros short. I had calculated the rate at 150 euros per day but somehow the agency had added on 45 euros and not detailed this in the email to me (though to be fair, their total included the 45 euros, I just hadn’t noticed it). I think it was for a "cleaning fee", but honestly, I'm too tired to argue. We scrounge for extra money and get that all settled, along with $450 in US dollars (300 euro) as a security deposit we will get back at departure.

Then S. starts explaining to me the details of the apartment, specifically the 4 separate bins for different types of trash and recycling and suddenly, I feel like I am about to faint.
I’m dizzy and my heart starts to race wildly and it's all I can do not to pass out on the floor. She must have thought I was crazy. I sit down for a moment, catch my breath, and we gather our things to leave for a few hours so she can finish cleaning.

Wow!!! I am in total admiration that you have started your trip report so soon. I'm still shifting through my photos...you know me, I have issues with deleting!

Really looking forward to your report and how you liked Katie Parla's tour. I'm hoping to get my trip report going soon...maybe late next week.

yay! Kristina's report!

Hi Kristina, I'm enjoying your new report. My trip to Rome next week is courtesy of the cheap Delta fare too. I hadn't been planning on Rome this year, but when I saw the cheap, cheap fare, I had to jump. My fare was $369 total RT!

I look forward to your next installment.

Kristina, you've been busy traveling! That is an unbelievable airfare. I would have done the same as you too!

Kristina: You are the rock star of OCD planning, and we are all the better for it. You have become the "go-to" gal for all things like packing, and preparation! You have probably saved many marriages, and cured other OCD'ers like me.
DH is eternally grateful.

I showed him your packing photos, and he now thinks I'm lobotomized.

I love every minute of every trip you do, and can't wait for more. I'll be needing it all for next trip to Italy in June, 2010, and only wish you could come along!

aggiegirl-Good for you for getting the good fare too! Just don't expect a lot from Delta. We kept repeating to ourselves "Four Hundred and Thirty Five Dollars" like a mantra instead of complaining about how much the seats sucked.

yk-Yes, I have. I finished my Vietnam report only a week before we left for Rome. Now, unbelievably, I have NO future trips on the books. At least now I can get caught up on my web site, food blog and oh yeah, the holidays are coming!

LCI- Get to it! You don't need the photos done to start the trip report. You got home before I did too! I hear you about the photos though; it took me almost all day today to do the photos for day 1 (not posted yet).

taconictraveler- Aw, thanks! Glad to help.
I wish I could go back to Italy in June 2010 too! It really is a toss up for me as to where I enjoy more; Italy or South East Asia. Each offers something different and I never tire of returning. OTOH, I think I need to go somewhere new next year.

To Continue...

"I've never seen you that particular shade of green."

The apartment is only about a block from the Ponte Sisto, so we walk across and into the historical center. We find a cafe in a little piazza about a block from the Campo di Fiori and everyone (but me) has a coffee and a snack.
I'm trying hard to hold it together, but I realize that if I don't get horizontal asap, I may truly pass out. It's a bit scary, and I'm having moments where I'm certain I'm going to die in Rome, but really, it's only lack of sleep. I just can't go 24 hours without sleeping any more. I'm too old for this.
We decide Jessica will walk with me back to the apartment and mom and Tris will stop at a grocery store we've passed and pick up some supplies.

We are waiting to cross over to the Piazza Trilussa and Jessica looks at me and says, "I've never seen you that particular shade of green." I now know this is not just in my head. I am praying they are done at the apartment, but they aren't. Fortunately, one bedroom is clean and S. graciously allows me to lie down. As soon as my head hits the pillow I am instantly out.

Kristina

Those maps are AMAZING.. I have made one for each city for my next trip but the day by day thing... LOVE IT

Then S. starts explaining to me the details of the apartment, specifically the 4 separate bins for different types of trash and recycling and suddenly, I feel like I am about to faint.>>

i have a similar problem when apartment owners start to tell me about how the dishwasher works, or how to operate the heating. my eyes glaze and my brain becomes mush, even when I'm not ill.

<<The owner, S., says to me, "the agency didn't tell me what time you were arriving!"
Hmmm....I only confirmed this with the agency twice.>>

For our February trip we are renting directly from the owner, using the driver she recommends. as we are arriving at night, I don't want to be worried that we won't be able to get in. I've learnt from our experience in Venice last year when the flight was delayed by 2 hours and we landed at about midnight; it was OK because I had the cell no of the owner and was able to warn him in advance that we were going to be delayed.

I am in awe of your planning and have started to adapt your googlemap of restaurants. [hope it's not copyright, lol].

looking forward to more of your report, when you feel better, I hope.

regards, ann

Nothing signals one has arrived in Rome quite like the smell of incense wafting from a Catholic Procession.

Mom and the girls go have drinks at a cafe in the Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere. They come back after an hour or so for a rest along with a story about how they'd seen some sort of religious gathering in the Piazza.

Suddenly, we hear noise outside and look out the bedroom window and down onto the street. It's the gathering they saw in the piazza, turned into a procession complete with priest, penitents carrying a heavy church idol on a platform (in this case a sacred painting), women carrying incense with their heads covered in white lace, and a marching band. It takes almost half an hour to move down our street and at one point the men carrying the idol stop for a rest right below my widow. The place and time could not have been more perfect. The smell of frankincense and myrrh lingers in my room for hours.

At 3pm Jessica leaves to meet up with her college roommate M., who now lives in Milan and has come down to Rome for the day. By 6pm I am feeling normal again and we all meet up to go out for a walk and dinner.

First we walk over the the historical center and to our favorite gelateria, Frigidarium (112 via Governo Vecchio). But wait! Where is our guy Fabrizio (the owner)? He's not there!

Note: We discovered Frigidaruim when we were here last year and visited almost every day. We got to know it's friendly owner, Fabrizio and have kept in contact with him via email. When I let him know we were coming back he seemed genuinely pleased. He also told me my web site had brought him a lot of business. So I guess people do read this stuff...

M. speaks to an older woman behind the counter in Italian and asks when he will be back. The woman eyes us all suspiciously and is deliberately vague as to when he will return.
Days? Who knows?
Only when M. tells her I have written about Frigidarium on the web and that Frabrizio knows us, does she loosen up. I leave my card for Fabrizio. My guess is that this woman is the over-protective mother-in-law. Everyone agrees.

We wander a bit more and pull out my restaurant list and map to select Osteria al Pegno. We get lost trying to find it and when we finally do, discover they are full unless we have a reservation.
One thing to keep in mind about dining in Italy, the restaurant may look empty, but many times they are holding tables for specific reservations. Things are different here than in the US where many places will seat until they are full and make their reservations wait. Mary calls another place on my list, Il Fico, and they say they can take our party of 5.

Kristina, I have really enjoyed all your trip reports, including your previous trip to Italy and France and I love your website and Google map. I leave for Rome in a week and look forward to trying some of your restaurants recommendations. How did you print out your 15 separate maps? Divide by neighborhood?

Drat...too bad you didn't make it to Osteria al Pegno. We went there our last night and it was one of the best meals of the trip...another reason for you to return to Rome!

Very enjoyable! I love all the details.

LouisaH- The Google Maps are actually a massive pain in the a$$ to print out.
First, they icons don't print properly (at least for me) in Internet Explorer so I had to do it in the Google Chrome browser.
Second, I then navigated the map to be in the neighborhood I wanted, blew it up to full screen size and then used the "print screen" function.
Then I hand wrote out numbers next to each icon which corresponded to the items in the guide I created.
Then I scanned that page and printed it out for my friends, but honestly, the half-fold map books I made just looked messy to me. I need to find a better way.

Each time I do this I learn something new in the process.
This time? Make sure you have as many opening hours listed as possible. Also, try and get as much detail on the maps as possible. Those streets in Rome are tiny!

Maybe someday I will get a GPS and there will be a way to automatically upload all the stuff on my google maps directly to GPS. A girl can dream...
Hmmm...I suppose you could access the google maps from a phone, though that might be prohibitively expensive in Europe.

Thanks, Kristina. That's what I figured but thought I'd check. I know what you mean about trying to find some of these places. Three years ago I visited my daughter, who was studying in Rome for the semester and who is a really good navigator. We were trying to find Cul de Sac and had a hard time even with map in hand. She was able to ask someone for directions in Italian and we found it but she won't be with me this time (much to her regret). I want to go back to Cul de Sac with my friend and so I've printed out careful directions.

Il Fico Ristorante

When we arrive the outside patio area is full. They offer us glasses of Prosecco while we wait for a table. After a few minutes, we take a table inside, choosing food over the wait. We order a number of antipasti dishes to share and everyone orders pasta for their main course. While most Italians don’t eat pasta for their main course, this was our first night in Rome and we were still getting into the eating groove.

We have an octopus salad, mixed grilled vegetables and two types of stuffed zucchini flowers; one breaded and fried, the other, which they called a “terrine”, was not a terrine, but rather just the flowers stuffed and baked. The battered and fried ones are very good and came with the traditional anchovy tucked inside along with the cheese. I could eat those all day long. We also have an order of eggplant parmesan.

My pasta, buccatini all’amatriciana comes with a garlicky tomato sauce with guanciale (bacon made from the pig’s cheek). It’s excellent but comes in a shockingly large portion size. In fact, most of the pastas here are quite generous of portion and everyone is happy with their choice (not because of size, but because of taste). The frutti di mare is beautiful, the caccio y pepe is very good, as were the house made ravioli and the pasta with mussels.

I think we had dessert, though because there are no photos, I can’t remember what it was. We had a liter (ok, a liter and a half) of the house white wine and it was perfectly drinkable. The service was friendly, if not a bit distracted. It takes us almost 45 minutes to pay our check, though we don’t mind because we’re having such fun and good conversation. To his credit, when the waiter realizes he had forgotten us, he brings us all complimentary glasses of Lemoncello. Dinner for five was approx. 95€

Il Fico Ristorante, Via di Monte Giordano, 49. Tel:06 6875568, www.ilfico.com

After dinner we get Mary into a cab back to her hotel and walk back across the bridge to our apartment. We find the street teeming with people walking, dining outside, drinking, etc. So, when in Rome...we stop at a gelato place right across from the apartment called Cremi for a late night treat.

Well, its about time. You've been home for at least a week.

My favorite photo (so far) is your view out the window of the graffiti, laundry, orange stucco, mossy patio. It's my idea of Rome's beauty.

Obviously, looking forward to more....

~Myra

Kristina - Love reading your report and waiting for more. And as I love Limoncello I'd gladly wait for a check for a free glass!

I'm considering Katie for a guide as she is willing to work with the time/attractions we want to see - would you recommend her?

Thanks.

The pictures For Day 1 are now on my website:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/Rome2009Day1.html

Myra-Yes, wasn't that courtyard picturesque? I still can't figure out why "Vietnam" was graffitied on the wall though. Wondering if it's been there for 30+ years.

travelfan1-Katie is great. You can tell she really loves what she does and she's incredibly knowledgeable. I'll be writing more about our tour with her, but that's not until Day 5. If you have specific questions, you can email me.
BTW, I like the screen name "travelfan." That used to me my username over on the Lonely Planet Thorntree boards.

Kristina...

FANTASTIC photos....love the ones of the procession...you really capture moment...feels like I was right there!

Hi Kristina,
Love your pictures and your website, so colourful! We are thinking of staying at Arco Del Lauro B&B in Trastevere so I was interested in what you were saying about that area being "party central". I have checked out the reviews on TA and no ones mentions noise as being a problem so I have my fingers crossed.

I loved your pictures, Kristina! And that "Vietnam" probably has been there since it was first done. Maybe the owners son did it? Anyway, thanks for sharing..truly a great trip report and oh the pictures of the food!

Maudie, I wouldn't worry about noise at Arco del Lauro. It's on the other, quieter side of Viale Trastevere, away from Vicolo del Cinque, which really is "party central".

Well that is good news Zerlina, thank you for letting me know.

Love the report and your photos! Have sent you an email about your site. I'd love to make the web my scrapbook!

Great pictures! I very Like your report!

Thanx

LCI & LoveItaly-Thanks!

Maudie, I'm glad Zerlina answered your question. And yes, the other side of Viale Trastevere seemed more quiet, though I was not over there at night.

Tdudette, I've replied to your email.

Another superb report by KrIstina! YAY!!!!!!!!!! I am eagerly awaiting the next installment and very curious as to the Katie Parla tour...

Wonderful report as was your last Rome adventure! We leave 12/21 for a week with 2 teens and your reports are our bible!

tagging for weekend reading!

Great report so far Kristina, can't wait for more. I'm just back from 10 days in Italy with one whirlwind day and night in Rome. Still on that high and missing it so much.

Hi Everyone, thanks for the encouragement.
Ekscrunchy, I used a couple of your recommendations again. Thanks!!!

Monday, October 12, 2009

Today begins in a much more gentle way than yesterday with one small exception. While Tris is in the shower, the shower head blows off, spraying water everywhere. I have to call S. and explain this. She says she will send her husband over while we are out. When we come back later in the day, the shower head is fixed.

My mom makes coffee in the apartment and then we head out toward the Coliseum/Forum/Palatine area. First we stop at the tourist information center on Viale Trastevere to buy our Roma Passes. www.romapass.it We had intended to buy the "Roma e Piu Pass" which includes some areas and sites outside of Rome but they tell us it’s not available without a “reservation,” something I don’t remember reading on the web site. Now, when I check their web site it says it's not currently available at all.

Roma Pass
The Roma Pass costs 23 euro, covers entrances to 2 sites/museums and is good for 3 days. After the first 2 sites are used, admission is "discounted" which I've found usually means 50% off. It’s most effective if used at the places with the most expensive admission prices first. Last year we used it for the Coliseum and the Borghese Gallery first. It is not good for the Vatican Museums.
It also includes a 3 day transportation pass good for buses, trams, metro and local commuter trains (like the one out to Ostia Antica), but not the train from the Airport. The museum pass and the transport pass do not have to be used on the same 3 days, but once you start using them, the clock starts ticking.

After buying the passes we walk toward the bus/tram hub at Largo Argentina and along the way stop at a small bar/cafe for some panini and coffee. Mom orders a "macchiato" which literally translated means "stained" and refers to an espresso with a spot of milk in it. This becomes her coffee of choice for the trip.

At Largo Argentina we walk around the outside of the ruins and have a chat with some of the local kitties who live in the cat shelter there. The Cat Sanctuary (http://www.romancats.com/index_eng.php)is open daily from 12-6 pm. We visited on our last trip, but did not make in down there this time. If you like cats, this is the place to go in Rome.

Once we have our fill of kitty love, we get on a bus going toward the Forum, validate our transportation passes in the bus on the machine, and now we are set for transport for the next 3 days. Once the pass is validated, you just have to carry it with you, not stamp it every time you get on the bus.

Looking good...

Day 2 continued...

We get off the bus at a stop about a block from the entrance to the Forum on Via Dei Fori Imperiali. A bathroom is needed and we remember from the last trip there's one there at the entrance (around the corner from the ticket office, before the actual entrance).
Once that's settled, there's some debate as to how we enter with our Roma Passes. Based on prior experience, I thought we had to show them at the ticket booth in exchange for a paper ticket. This is no longer true. Just walk up to the turnstile on the left, swipe the Roma Pass card in the machine, and we are good to go. This is only good for the first two “free” visits. After that, you have to wait in line to buy your discounted ticket, but some sites have different lines for Roma Pass holders.

As we wander around the forum it suddenly gets very humid outside and starts to rain a little. We can do nothing but laugh at our misfortune; when we were here last year we toured the Forum and Coliseum with Francesca Caruso it dumped rain so much that we were unable to take pictures. Jessica amuses herself by taking pictures of two little toy cars, Luigi and Guido, from the movie "Cars" in front of the monuments. The photos are hilarious.

I've never been up to the Palatine so I'm determined to get up there today. We head up the stairs, pausing to look at the grotto which because of the rain is flowing heavily. At the top of the steps, we reach a formal garden and the skies unleash. My mom and I huddle under an umbrella under an olive tree and Jess and Tris under another umbrella. I have no idea why we only had 2 umbrellas for 4 people that day. After about 10 minutes the deluge stops and the skies part. We are at a viewpoint which overlooks the Forum and most of Rome in the distance. The sun is shining on one side and the skies are threatening on the other. It's crazy, chaotic and beautiful all at once.

After we've had our fill of the view we walk around to check out the other parts of the Palatine. I really had no idea how large the area is and in the end, we only see a small fraction. We walk through a tunnel which has mosaic floors and an ancient artifact exhibit inside and then choose to leave and visit the coliseum again before it gets too late and we run the risk of breaking golden rule #1. I would have liked to have spent more time at the Palatine and will have to go back again (oh shucks!).

At the coliseum we don't have to wait in line, only put our cards in the turnstile machine and it lets us through. I'm worried that it will have charged us for a 2nd visit, instead of reading it as our first to be included with the forum. But I'm a worrier and I won't know the answer until we visit the second site, tomorrow.

Regular admission to the Forum/Coliseum/Palatine is 13 euro and the ticket is good for 2 days to allow you to see all the sites. I don't know if they let you return to the same place you've already visited on the second day however nor do I know how that works with the Roma Pass.

We enjoy ourselves walking around the Coliseum for a while, taking pictures. Unfortunately, it's impossible to walk the entire circumference inside, and there's only one place to go up to the second level.
This means we end up walking on the bottom level all the way to the (only) exit, walking all the way back to the entrance, going up, coming down, and walking all the way back to the exit. And of course, the exit is on the opposite side of the coliseum from where we want to be for lunch.
My advice if you are going in without a tour, enter, go upstairs first, come down and work your way toward the exit. There is less backtracking that way.

There are a new set of portable restrooms inside the coliseum, right next to the ticket area. I think in the past one had to exit to find any. While waiting in the long line, a woman standing near us says loudly, "you would think in a place this large, they would have more bathrooms!"
Yeah, right, let's convert this 2000 year old world treasure for your convenience. Would you prefer they drill right into the walls? How about putting the latrines down where they used to keep the animals? Would that be better for you?
We all marvel at this and even strike up a conversation with another woman in line near us who is also stunned by this example of the "inane tourist comments."

<<It's crazy, chaotic and beautiful all at once.>>

Oh, I know -- and isn't it fantastic? I smile just thinking about that view.

The Palatine Hill is my absolute favorite place in Rome. Reading this brought it all back; I can't wait to share it with my little kid-lets.

Now for the pictures.....
~M

Hi Kristina, can't wait for your next installment especially because I've been paranoid about the ticket turnstile counting the coliseum as a second site after visiting Palatine or Forum. Hope it worked out for you!

Kristina, I just posted to see if anyone can give me ideas re. our January (the whole month) stay in Rome. Now I'm feeling that I've got YOU and I don't need any more help...Thank you!
Back to reading your posts...I have my little leather bound notebook out ready to copy your notes.

Well that cinches it, I need to return to Rome...in all my visits there over the last 2 years I've yet to get to the Palatine Hill...seems reasonable to make that a reason for another trip!

Kristina, would you recommend your guide Katie Parla?

mebe-Wait until you see the panorama my friend Tris did from the top of the palatine.

giannetta-Katie is great. You can tell she really loves what she does and she's incredibly knowledgeable. I'll be writing more about our tour with her, but that's not until Day 5.

aggiegirl-I'm going to keep you in suspense...

LCI-I know! I want to go back just to explore that area more. I kinda feel like I missed out on something there.

Hostaria Da Nerone

Hostaria da Nerone is the type of place you really want to take the time to search out if you want to eat well near the Coliseum. Sure, you can sit at an outdoor cafe and gaze up at this wondrous monument, but not only will you pay a hefty price for the privilege, you will be sitting with hoards of package bus tourists and the quality of the food is questionable.

This restaurant sits on a leafy, tree lined street about a block north of the Coliseum. An extra bonus is that it’s only another block from the famous San Pietro in Vincoli (St Peter’s in Chains) Church which houses Michelangelo’s famous statue of Moses (stunning).

We start with a bottle of Rose, perfect for the hot, humid weather, a couple of artichokes alla romana and a salad. The restaurant has a large anti-pasti bar and had we been paying better attention, we would have ordered a plate off of that. My understanding of how anti-pasti bars work in Italy is that one is given a plate and you can put on it what you want, but there’s no going back for seconds. I would have liked to try their marinated eggplant, white anchovies, and just about everything else there. The artichokes were delicious.

We each order a pasta; fresh fettuccine with mushrooms, spaghetti alla vongole (with clams), canneloni al forno, and a special mixed plate for me with a little lasagna, gnocchi, and a single large ravioli. All are excellent and Jessica will not even share a bite of the vongole it’s so good. We have two desserts, a “cheesecake” and an unremarkable “tiramisu” served in a glass cup. Skip dessert and go somewhere for gelato.

This is clearly a family run place with mom, dad, and their adult son running the floor. They’ve been there since 1929, and while it is located by one of the world’s most famous tourist attractions, it still feels like a neighborhood place. The son waited on us and was very friendly. Lunch for four, including a 13 € bottle of wine, bottled water, and 10% service was 99€
Hostaria da Nerone, Via Delle Terme di Tito, 96. Tel:06 4187952

After lunch we walk over to San Pietro in Vincoli and marvel at the beauty of Michelangelo’s Moses and the ceiling painting of St. Peter in Chains. Along the way we pass what looks like a crime scene, complete with yellow police tape and a coroner’s van. Only after we see some people sitting under a pop-up tent do we realize it’s a film shoot. Perhaps CSI Rome? I’d watch that!
Think of the story lines…

Those contemplating a return to the Palatine should plan a visit to the Casa di Augusto: a few small but exquisitely frescoed rooms.

Kristina, I'm really enjoying your report. I've just started the planning stages for my 2nd trip to Rome. I am again traveling with my 32-yr-old daughter and am very excited about the trip. We will be arriving next April.

I'm hoping you will include the price of the tour with Katie. We had a wonderul tour of the Vatican Museums last time with Context Rome. We are planning on using them again for Palatine Hill and Forum, but will certainly consider Katie if the price is right.

Thanks for all the fabulous info! I'm really looking forward to identifying some good dining choices in each neighborhood. I'm going to pop some of those google maps into my DK Eyewitness travel guide, as I love their detailed 3-D city section maps.

Looking forward to more! And thanks for sharing!

Paula

Kristina,

I've loved your previous reports, and I'm sure this one will be no different!

I really appreciate how you've organized your report, and I love your packing pictures and the maps you made - I'm pretty ashamed to admit that I never realized you could make your own google map! So useful!!

Thanks for the info on the Roma Pass - I've seen it mentioned lots of times before, but I never knew what was included on it.

Your fainting experience - my heart really goes out to you as I can't sleep on flight either, and it takes us about 24 hours of flight time to reach Europe. On my first international trip, I thought I was coming down with the flu, but later learned it was just because of sleep deprivation - I'm glad you felt much better.

As everyone has said, you're pictures are lovely - I've always been a bit scared to whip out my camera at rest., but I really regret it now...just another reason to go back right!

Day 2 continued...

In the evening we have plans for another meet up. This time it’s with Fodorite Marcy, aka “LowCountryIslander”, her mother, and their friend. When we figured out we were going to be in Rome at the same time, we made plans to get together. It seems like we have taken several of the same trips in the past few years (Rome, Paris, San Francisco), so it was neat to be in the same place at the same time and put a face to the name.

We chose to meet at a wine bar called Cul Du Sac. This was a place I’d wanted to try on a previous trip as had Marcy. It seems to be very popular and I've seen it recommended a lot. Marcy agreed to check it out prior to our arrival, did so, and proclaimed it good. Our plan was to meet by 7:30 with them arriving early to get us all a table outside.

Unfortunately, with the rain earlier in the day, the outside tables were all wet and it was really too cold to sit out there. Inside, the place is so small and narrow there is no room for a table for 7 so we have to sit at two tables across the central aisle from each other. I sit with Marcy, her mom and friend while my mom, Jessica and Tris sit at another table. Needless to say, this isn’t really conducive to good conversation between everyone.

We're so busy chatting, I don’t take any photos of the food or wine. Plus, the tables are so cramped, there really isn’t any room. There is a lengthy wines by the glass list as well as a bottle menu which looks like a book. The food is basic; meats, cheeses and pates. It’s fine, but not stellar.

Unfortunately, this is one of those times when poor service can color the whole experience. Our server is not interested in us, or his job for that matter. He seems completely put out at all times. He ignores us, is impatient and disinterested. To be fair, Marcy said when they were there a couple of nights before they had great service. Frankly, there are too many other great wine bars in Rome and I’m not sure I get the hype over this one. It’s possible we just got a guy on a bad night, so give it a try, at least for a glass of wine.

Regardless of the surly server with the pierced lip (oh yes, he had a stud) we had a lovely time with LCI and I do hope our paths cross again. Marcy, where shall we meet next?

After dinner, we walk up the street to Frigidarium to see if Fabrizio is in. Again, he is not, but we do meet his brother who is just as nice as he is. We all order some gelato this time and when I order 2 flavors in a small cup, he says “Ah, you’ve been here before! Most people don’t know you can do that.” Their gelato really one of the is the best around.
The brother tells us Fabrizio now has another job during the week and is only in the gelato shop on weekends. He says, “Everyone in my family has three jobs!” I gave him my card again and by the time we got back to the apartment I have two messages from Fabrizio saying he will be there on Saturday, so we will hopefully see him then.

Anna-we must have been posting at the same time.
Yes, the older I get the more sleep deprivation affects me. I can't hit the ground running like I used to! Now I know better and will have to plan for it. It's extra hard with an early morning arrival.

Regarding photos in restaurants; it's funny but I only do it when I travel, never at home (though yes to when I travel in the US). My rule is never to use a flash, try and be discrete and be fast so people can eat! Fortunately, my family and friends support my obsession.

bookmarking for in flight reading along with Ms.Benson's

Kristina...

I really enjoyed meeting you, your mom, Tris and Jessica...what fun travel partners you have!

I was so excited to (finally) get to meet you since, as you said, we had been traveling around each other in circles for the last couple years.

I may need to try and get to any upcoming west coast GTG!

Loving this report! It's fun to see how we each spent our time in Rome at the same time!

Ok folks, I'm working on photos for Day 2. Will post a link as soon as I'm done, then I can get to writing Day 3...

Kristina, Brava! We return to Rome in 105 days, that would be 3 months and 13 days. Your trip report has come just in time to boost my excitement to over the top. Our apartment is literally next door to the Frigidarium, I believe we are in trouble. I remember you last Rome report and thought hmmm, I;ll have to try that place. I will ask for Fabrizio and mention your name too.

This will be I think my 8th trip to Rome but it's been two years since the last visit and I need it bad.

Thanks for your fantastic reporting, enthusiasm, humor, practicality and also to J & T for their contributions. I will continue to wait with others for more, more, more!

DH and I couldn't find Cul de Sac so missed Tedgale when we were both there. Neat area and am enjoying your TR.

As always, I'm loving your report! If I can't be in Rome then living vicariously thru you will have to suffice. Ah, Frigidarium - the thought of it makes me smile! Really the best gelato I've ever had.

Can't wait for more pics and details!

ecat <<We return to Rome in 105 days, that would be 3 months and 13 days.>>

that sounds like when we'll be there too! we arrive on 10th Feb and leave on 17th. How about you?

This is such a great report, Kristina. I am heading back to Rome next spring and am so happy to have all of your great information, tips, and experiences! Yay!!

Annhig, Cool, we arrive the 12th and leave 24th!! Maybe we could meet up?

hi ecat - great idea.

perhaps you'd like to e-mail me?

ann@trefula.com should find me.

http://www.wired2theworld.com/Rome2009Day2.html
Photos for Day 2 now on my website.

ecat and annhig- Sounds like another Rome mini-GTG in the making. If you do meet up, you must promise to report back.

Thanks to everyone for all the nice comments. It makes all the hard work worthwhile.

great pics, Kristina.

you seemed to be having a good time at the GTG, depsite the bad service.

if we manage to have another one, don't think we'll be going there though!

keep it coming!

regards,ann

BTW, in my opinion, the poor service and the poor food make Cul de Sac a definite no...the company however was "mahvelus"...

Kristina, Just wrote Ann, and if we GTG, will let you know ; ) The canneloni al forno at Hostaria da Nerone has me drooling and the panorama View from the Palatine - spectacular!

KrisMom...my sentiments exactly! Great to meet you...hopefully our paths will cross again!

Wonderful photo's, I can't wait to go!

Fantastic report & photos. Thanks.

Finally a quiet Sunday evening, a glass of wine and catching up on your trip report and beautiful and interesting pictures, Kristina. The picture of Moses..very special to me due to a sentimental time with my husband..he "discovered Moses and came rushing back to the hotel to tell me "hurry up, I have to show you something!".

Kristina: Fab Day 2 photos - you make it all come alive. thanks a million, and keep it up. loved your blog too.

Yep, pics lovely as always. They made DH and I day-dream about Rome all weekend.....

~M

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Today begins with another apartment drama, albeit small. We are all getting ready; showering, drying hair, making coffee and suddenly the power in half the apartment goes out. I have visions of having to call S. again and try to explain and this does not make me happy. I look for the fuse box and find it near the front door. I flip the switch and the power returns. It goes out one more time and we figure out we can’t run the microwave along with anything else at the same time in the apartment. Ok, that’s easy enough.

Our first stop of the day is to check out the daily market in Piazza San Cosimato in Trastevere. Along the way over there, we pass the church of Santa Maria in Trastevere and take the opportunity go inside. The mosaics inside are stunning.

The market turns out to be very small. I’m sure it’s fine if you live in the area, but there are maybe 20 vendors in all so it’s not a huge selection. Perhaps it’s larger on Fridays? If you are “into” food markets, I’m not sure I’d recommend going across town for this one, but it was ok if you are already in the area.

We walk toward Viale Trastevere and in the distance I see a very old woman walking toward us with a box balanced on her head. She is quite the character and smiles and says “buongiorno!” to us as she passes by. She says something else, but unfortunately, none of us understand. We all wish we could talk to her because she must have some great stories to tell. As Jessica says, “She was probably around the same time as Mussolini!”

By now it’s about 10:30 and we still haven’t had breakfast so we stop at the first place which has decent looking panini called Caffe Trastevere at the corner of Viale Trastevere and via di San Francisco a Ripa. The sandwiches and cappucini are fantastic and really hit the spot. We revel in having the luxury of time to sit and enjoy a leisurely breakfast without the rush of the “go !go! go!” sightseeing pace. This is one of the benefits of having visited a place before.

So enjoying your report! Can't wait for more!!

Day 3 Continued

From there, our goal was the Capitoline Museums to which none of us had ever been. We took tram #8 to Largo Argentina and transferred to the first bus which would get us close to the where it looked like the museum was on the map.

Rome Lesson #357: Sometimes it’s hard to tell where things are from the map, and where the closest bus stop is.

The Capitoline Museums (and there are two, right across the Piazza Campidoglio from each other) are essentially at the top of the Cordonata (Michelangelo’s grand staircase) next to the right side of the Vittorio Emmanualle monument.

Unfortunately, the bus did not stop until it had gone around and to the far side of the Piazza Venezia so we had to walk back and up the steps on the left in between the Forum and the monument.

Capitoline Museums
One entrance fee gets you into both the Palazzo Nuovo and the Palazzo dei Conservatori (www.museicapitolini.org). You must enter through the Palazzo dei Conservatori.

Now was the moment of truth; would our Roma Pass cards work for the 2nd free entrance? We followed the signs for Roma Pass holders, by-passing the ticket window, and went straight to the security line. They scanned our cards, and let us in. Easy. Yes, I was relieved.

There is a free coat check locker room right inside the entrance. Put your stuff in an empty locker and take the key. There are also basic maps in there but we ended up using the DK Eyewitness Guide much morr. Looking back, the info in the guidebook was pretty scarce on what was actually there.

The famous giant head, hands and feet of the colossal statue of Constantine are right there in the courtyard and we had the place to ourselves for a full 10 minutes. The rest of the museum is huge, spanning two building with many floors. It’s overwhelming and I know we missed a lot (including apparently a special Michelangelo exhibit!). It’s also nowhere near as crowded as some of the other museums in town. There are the remains of a temple of Jupiter and the museum is built right around it. I can't possibly explain everything we saw, but there will be plenty on photos on my web site.

One of the best things is the view from the area between the two museums overlooking the forum. Thanks to Marcy for telling us about this. To get between the two museums there is an underground passageway beneath the piazza. In the middle is an offshoot. Go up the steps and walk toward the light. You will be rewarded with the most fantastic view.
By the second museum we are starting to flag a bit, but we enjoy the sculptures and the temple ruins nonetheless.

Afterward, we exit from the Palazzo Nuovo, walk across the piazza, show our keys at the entrance and pick up our coats. We want to use the bathroom before we leave, which turns out to be big mistake. We follow the direction of a security guard and down the stairs and all the way across the passage to the second museum we go. If there was a closer one to the coat check, we do not see it.

We sit in the Piazza and pull out my trusty guide, looking for where to go for lunch. The Ghetto neighborhood is walking distance so we set out to find Sora Margarhita. But first we have to take one last look at the view.

Tip: if you don’t have time to see the view from inside the Capitoline Museum viewpoint, go up to the Piazza Campidoglio and head to the right side of the Palazzo Senatorio building. Go under the ancient archway connecting the two buildings and check out the view from there. It’s a slightly different perspective, but still stunning. In fact, I think this one might be slightly better because you can see the Coliseum more clearly from this angle.

Just another reason to go back! We haven't made it inside in several visits-always waiting for bad weather that never comes.

Oh I hope you made it to Sora Margarhita. I had that on my "go to list", but just ran out of time!

And yet another reason to go back! DH and I are of the "stumble onto a wonderful place" school. We seem to get lost looking for particular places...like Cul de Sac.

Sora Margherita

When is a restaurant not really a restaurant?

Question: When is a restaurant not really a restaurant?
Answer: When it’s a “cultural association.”

It takes us a while and as usual, we get a little lost, wandering in the Ghetto. In fact, we have to stop and ask someone for directions and end up back in a Piazza where we’d just been five minutes before. It’s no surprise because this place has no sign or visible entrance, unless you know what you’re looking for.
Stand in the Piazza delle Cinque Scole and look for the doorway with the long red ribbons/ropes (the kind used to keep flying insects out). See it? Then look closer at a metal plate on the wall next to the doorway and you’ll see that someone has hand painted “Sora Margherita” on it.

There is a gentleman standing in the doorway, policing all who dare to enter. We ask for a table for four. He hesitates and tells us we will have to wait about 20 minutes. It’s a little after 1:30PM and the small place is packed with people. We sit in the sunshine on a couple of folding chairs and wait, watching the crowd of mostly locals come and wait too. We chat for a while with a guy, also waiting, who teaches at a nearby school. He tells us “everything is good” here.

Finally they are ready to seat us and we squeeze our way to the back room and to a table for four. We’re asked if we’ve been before and when we say we have not, we’re given little cards to fill out to join the “cultural association.” Apparently, this is how they get around following certain rules and inspections governing restaurants. We are presented with a hand written menu on brown butcher paper.

We select a little of everything from the menu to try. The grilled and marinated eggplant is cooked to perfection. The typical carciofi alla giudea (a fried and flattened artichoke) is wonderful. Usually I have not liked this version as much as the marinated alla romana, but here it was wonderful, crispy and tender at the same time.

We get an order of agnolotti (a stuffed pasta like a ravioli) which comes filled with beef. We’d ordered it with a sugo di carne sauce (a tomato sauce with beef). If I’d realized the filling had meat in it, I would have ordered it with a different sauce, like pesto. Almost all the pastas came with a choice of sauce. We also order the rigatoni di pajata, which I love, but is not something for everyone. In fact, just like last year, our server clarified that I knew what I was ordering when I asked for it. For an explanation of pajata, please see my page from last year on this dish http://www.wired2theworld.com/ROME2008Day7.html (near the bottom of the page).

To round out the main meal, we get an order of meatballs and an order of eggplant parmesan. The meatballs are probably the weakest dish of the meal; they seem like they have too much bread crumb in them or something to alter the texture and make them less “meaty.” The eggplant parmesan is very good. I would have liked to have ordered another meat dish to try.

We order dessert (cheesecake with chocolate and peaches in red wine) and while waiting, we notice the man across from us has received a plate of chunks of what appears to be parmesan cheese. He sees both Tris and me eying the plate (me with curiosity and she with cheese lust in her heart) and holds the plate toward us, offering us some. We politely decline. He insists. We decline again. He won’t take no for answer and gets up from his seat and forces us each to take a piece of cheese. It’s very strong, sharp and incredibly salty. Later he tries to offer us more, along with other items from his table and we have to try and explain how full we already are. We leave, happy and satisfied.

Lunch for four, including a liter of house white wine, a liter of water and service, is 80€
Sora Margherita, Associazione Culturale; Piazza delle Cinque Scole, 30. Tel:06 6874216

Oh Darn! I wish we had made it to Sora Margherita.

I had a feeling after reading about it in my Food Wine Rome book it would be just the kind of place I like...and by your description it certainly sounds like I missed a gem!

Oh well...next time! I see you are keeping up "our" eggplant passion!

After lunch we walk over to see the turtle fountain and discover it has been drained and is being restored.

By now we’re ready to head back to the apartment, but first, I can’t leave the Ghetto without a stop at a wonderful kosher bakery called Pasticceria “Boccione” Limentani (Via Portico D’Ottavia, 1). This place is right on the corner of the piazza and is well known for its various biscotti and cookies and for crostata which is like a thick tart or pie with two crusts. We arrive too late to try the one with ricotta and chocolate, so I have to settle for the one with cherries and almond paste. I try it later, when everyone else is sleeping. It’s all I can do not to polish it all off myself. If it’s that good, how good must the chocolate be?

For dinner we decide to do something in the neighborhood and head out to Dar Poeta pizzaria. Inside they are full and it’s too cold to sit outside. We wait a few minutes and finally they tell us to come in. We find ourselves being led to a basement dining room, where we sit for the entire meal, alone. This ticks me off a bit and I wonder why the other people (clearly local) waiting for a table inside are not brought down to the basement as well. From a restaurant operator’s perspective, I’m sure they just wanted to give us a table, any table, and I really want to give them the benefit of the doubt that they weren’t putting us down there just because we were tourists. Still, it felt a bit lame. Fortunately, the pizzas, the crust especially, turn out to be really good.

We have one pizza with zucchini flowers, mozzarella and anchovies, one with sausage, mushrooms and mozzarella, and one with potatoes, sausage and mozzarella. My mom has nothing but tries each of the pizzas. There was a lot left over, and while getting a “doggy bag” is not very common in Europe, we get the remains of our pizzas to go because we see people leaving with boxes and figured it was acceptable here.

Three pizzas, 1 liter of aqua con gas, ½ liter of wine, 2 large beers, and 1 small beer was approx. 80€. Dar Poeta, Vicolo del Bologna, 45/46; Tel:06 5880516 www.darpoeta.com

hi Kristina,

I've just started reading HV Morton's "a traveller in Rome" [available on Amazon] so it was interesting to compare your description of the Capitoline museums with his!

you compare pretty well, but he's not so up to date on the restaurants!

sora margherita has definitely gone down on my list.

annhig-There's so much art there I couldn't possibly describe it all, which is why I didn't even try. That's what a good guidebook is for. But I will have a TON of pictures on my website.

Ann, for future reference...

HV Morton's books are excellent, but before you buy on amazon have a look in your local charity shops - you should be able to find a copy for less than £3 (a £1 or so more if it's in the dustwrapper). I work in an Oxfam bookshop and we get loads of his books in. I've got a nice copy of his 'The Fountains of Rome' at the moment - lots of pics, it's also a great book to read before you visit Rome, worth looking our for.

hi julia - why didn't I think of that?

DH is always saying I do things before thinking.

but I'll have a look for the Fountains of Rome - there are plenty of charity shops near my office plus a couple of 2nd hand book shops, which I never need an excuse to visit.

Bookmarking...for yet another reason that I shouldn't avoid Rome anymore.

...And that the only way to do it is in true "Kristina style".

Kristina.....I swear we're kindreds (among others here who feel the same way!).

A/S

sora...sounds wonderful. My Italian is too poor to even be called 'rusty' but is agnolotti a lamb dish? Anyway, it all sounded so great.

adventureseeker-yes, I have found many "kindreds" here on Fodor's. And no, please don't avoid Rome. It's really special. The trick is to give it more than the typical 2-3 days most tourists allow. I could spend a month there and not see everything on my list.

TDudette-agnolotti is a type of filled pasta like a ravioli or a tortoloni. My Food Lover's Companion defines it at "Italian for Priests Caps, a small crescent shaped stuffed pasta."

Folks, please bear with me. It's taking me longer than I'd like to get the writing done and go through all my photos.
I tell myself I won't move forward with writing the next day until I get the previous one up and posted on my website. That's the only way I can get it all done.
But real life intrudes and because I spend so much time on the computer, I've been having pain in my right arm (my mouse hand) and I've been trying to give it a rest.
I promise, I will get it done.

No worries. You just have us all hooked in and we want more.

We can all be patient.

"Rome wasn't built in a day"......(pun intended)

Kristina, I could spend all day on your site and never get anything done.
Question for you:
If you were staying in Umbria, and wanted to travel into Rome for the day, could you narrow down exactly what you would see. Keeping in mind the time frame we will be there.
a week before Easter....... First time Rome visit. Many times in Italy. I'm an artist and would love to see the highlights, but just know it'll be crazy busy there, and I will probably not really appreciate what is before me.
thanks and appreciation...for all your great posts!

grucci,

For a one-day visit, I think the biggest concern is to decide whether or not to visit the Vatican Museums, since it can take a big chunk from your day depending on your interests. The museums can take 2 hours for highlights or all day for a total exploration. Then add in at least an hour to explore St Peter's Basilica

Another concentration would be Ancient Rome, with the most popular sites clustered together: Colosseum, Forum, Palatine Hill. One could see the Colosseum and Forum in half a day. More time would probably be needed to explore the Palatine Hill.

The third concentration would be exploring the old center: Trevi Fountain, Pantheon, Piazza Navona, Campo de Fiori. This is more about wandering than paying admission, dealing with lines, and visiting a site.

As an artist, you may have your own must-see locations . . . Borghese Gallery . . . St Teresa in Ecstacy . . . that would take you to other parts of the city.

Set your must-sees and concentrate on that. Don't forget to add in cafe time.

grucci-

I see ellen has replied to your question already, but my take is a little different. That's the beauty of Fodor's is it not?

So, Roma as a day trip? My heart is breaking just a little...

BTW, if you look at my 2008 trip you will see we were also there the week before Easter. It was busy, but not that bad. Honestly, it did not seem any less busy this October.

I see you are renting a villa in Orvieto. This is good because you can take the train directly into Rome in about an hour. DO NOT drive, even if you have cars. It will take you longer than that hour and you will be fighting traffic and parking. It's just not worth it.
So, even if you get a very early start (which I recommend) you will only have 8-10 hours in Rome.

Here's what I would NOT do; I would not go to any museums and I would not do any tours. Both will suck up too much of your time.

Here's what I would do;
I would take the train in as early as possible. I would taxi or take the metro over to the Coliseum and check that out along with the Forum. Allow about 2.5 hours. Make sure you climp the stairs to the Palatine for the view of the Forum, but I agree you won't have the time to see all of the Palatine.

Then, I would take the bus over to the historical district and check out the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, Campo di Fiori (if you get there before 2PM you will be able to see the daily market) and the Trevi Fountain.
If you are not traveling with all 17 of your family members, I would make reservations for lunch at Armando al Pantheon. If you will all be together, I would probably search out a place for pizza. Wander around the historical district for a couple of hours.

Lastly, I would go see St. Peters Basilica, saving the Vatican Museum and thus, the Sistene Chapel for another visit.
Then, maybe an early dinner before getting on the train home. Or, if no time for dinner, a trip to the Testaccio neighborhood and a stop at the famous Volpetti deli for picnic supplies for the train ride back (or a stop at just about any market will yield good results).

grucci:

17 family members? really? Listen to Kristina--no tours, no cars.

I differ from her suggestions in this way: skip St Peters--lines too long and really, I know it's St Peter's , but I think there are much more impressive churches in the world. Heresy? Perhaps. Take the time and just sit somewhere, and absorb Rome--and decide when you will return and devote a week to it. This week that K writes about now was my second visit and I am going back next Spring. I may do the Scavi Tour at the Vatican, but right now I would not go back to St Peter's.

But mom, you've been before and she's never been. That's why I recommended a "greatest hits" kind of day.

Sorry, but I have to respectfully disagree with my mom here. Unless you dislike churches all together, I wouldn't miss it.

Kristina,
Loving your trip report as always!

We are also flying Delta in cattle class and though I am only 5'7", DS is 6'4". It will be a long flight.
I can so relate to the "green" comment. I'm hoping to avoid it this flight...but...the sleep deprivation takes its toll on this 50 yo body.
Years ago I got off the plane from NY to Tel Aviv, so sick, and went directly to a wedding rehearsal dinner. Not pretty. Similar experience in Madrid but I recovered faster.

I wondered how you used those google maps "on-the-ground". I will have to figure out the best way to print them out as I've been logging restaurants and sites like a lunatic- great fun!

I love your photos and I know that will be the guys (DH & both DSs) favorite part of the story.

Thank you for all your hard work!

Just to be clear, I was not recommending that grucci do all three of those "concentrations." I just wanted to point out a way of breaking up most traveler's major interests in Rome into three areas (which, conveniently, are in three areas) and how one might consider a quick versus longer visit to each. Then grucci gets to say, "Yes, that's what I've always wanted to see" and eliminate the unnecessary for so brief a visit. Grucci may decide to skip the Forum are entirely and concentrate totally on the Vatican Museums because of grucci's interest in art. Grucci might decide to sip the Forum and Vatican and instead wander the old center, see art in a few line-less churches, and have a nice lunch. In the end, the best single day in Rome concentrates on what grucci likes.

All right, here's Day 3 on my web site. TONS of photos!
http://www.wired2theworld.com/Rome2009Day3.html

eyemom84-Thanks! The Google maps are difficult on the ground. I did have to cross reference them with other maps we had on hand.

ellenem-Don't worry, I think your advice was clear. And I think it's sound. On the other hand, I'm the one suggesting the all-out greatest hits day!

grucci,

I agree with Kristina. At least go and look at St. Peter's - if the queues are too long, then perhaps cross the river into Trastevere and visit Saint Cecilia's. We did that the day that we gave up on the queue for the Vatican museums, and it was magical - you pay €3 to go into the basement to see the mosaics and there is a lovely garden outside for quiet contemplation.

Oh, what yummy photos. Thanks very much Kristina, you are so good at this! I am positively FAMISHED just looking!

Kristina...thanks so much for the photo credit!

Wednesday, October 14, 2009

We start the day with a breakfast of pancetta, eggs, toast and coffee in the apartment. This is one of the nice things about having an apartment and a kitchen when traveling.

Today is the last day our Roma Passes and transportation passes are valid, and we want to make use of them, but we choose to start with a walk over to the Campo di Fiori market.

It’s probably 10am by the time we arrive and the market is in full swing. It may be predominately for tourists, but the food here is good quality nonetheless. I am so impressed with the time they take to artfully arrange the produce in their stalls. Everything looks so beautiful.

There are also a number of non-food vendors selling clothing, hats, small kitchen wares, and jewelry. We are particularly taken by an older gentleman who is selling is special slicer/dicer. He has his spiel down perfectly in English, down to the jokes. Almost everyone who watches buys something from him.

From the guy selling hats, I buy 2, one in green, one in brown (16 euro each). Tris and my mom buy hats as well. We also spend quite a while looking at a never ending assortment of Murano glass necklaces (there had to be thousands, all different) and everyone buys something there as well. At the dried spice guy I buy a bag of arrabiata spice for a friend living in Cambodia.

After an hour or so, we are done with our shopping and make one last stop inside a salumeria on the southeast corner of the Campo. Mom buys a couple different cheeses and we walk back to the apartment to drop our spoils.

Along the way I have to stop and buy a couple of bottles of Amaro Lucano as a gift for my husband. We had this Amaro last time we were here and it became everyone’s favorite. Tris found it again in a market on our first day for only 9.90 euro a bottle. It’s almost impossible to find in the US, and when we did, it was $35 a bottle, so I know David will be happy.

After a pit stop at the apartment to drop our purchases, we are on our way out one again to the Baths of Diocletian. The plan is to take the bus over to the general area and then stop for lunch at a nearby restaurant.

Once again, we take tram 8 to the Largo Argentina stop and then transfer to a bus which we think will take us to where we want to go for lunch. It’s a long hot, crowded ride. Jessica is watching a map and following our progress so we can know when to get off the bus. Suddenly, the bus takes an unexpected (to us) turn. We’re not sure what to do. We look at my bus map. This doesn’t make sense.

Finally we figure it out; the bus has a long and convoluted route ahead and will eventually circle back to where we need to go. Do we stay on and wait it out or get off? We jump off at the next stop and start walking back toward the museum, but it’s a long way away. We keep walking along the bus route and finally one comes so we hop back on. We get off to the stop closest to our destination, a restaurant called Cantina Cantarini.

As we walk up there I am praying we will find it open. I don’t have a lot of options otherwise in this area, and it’s already getting late for lunch given our little bus adventure. Fortunately, Cantarini is open and they have a table for us. But it’s tiny and quickly filled. We are the only tourists in evidence here and I like that.

An older gentleman who is clearly the owner waits on us. He rattles off the specials in rapid fire Italian. When he walks away from the table, Jess asks me, “what did he say?” I have no idea past the first couple of items, but she says I look like I understood.

We order an arugula and tomato salad and a caprese salad along with two penne arribiata, a buccatini alla amatricciana and an order of liver, plus sautéed chicory and an order of broccoli. The salads and pastas are both good, especially the arribiata which is very flavorful without being overly spicy. I could eat the sautéed chicory every day. Those who had the liver (not me) enjoyed it. For dessert, we have panna cotta with chocolate sauce (odd) and one tiramisu (excellent). Half bottle white wine, 1 L bottle of water and 3 coffees is about 75 euro for four people.
Cantina Cantarini-Piazza Sallustio, 12-Tel: 06 485528 Closed Sundays

The owner’s wife and teenage daughter are there working as well. Teen exasperation is clear in any a language. The girl clearly does not want to be there. We are all amused watching her roll her eyes when asked to do anything, sigh, and begrudgingly make espresso.

Y'all still with me here? Sleeping yet?

From the restaurant, we walk about 5 blocks to Baths of Diocletian. This is part of the Museo Nazionale Romano and tickets here are good for the 5 museums of this group (also including the Palazzo Massimo, Palazzo Altemps, Aula Ottagona, and Crytpa Balbi) and are valid for three days. However, because we are using our Roma Passes on their last day, the ticket is only good for today. This is a bummer because tomorrow we go to the Crypto Balbi as part of our tour with Katie Parla and will have to pay full price admission there. Looking back on it, had I thought it through, I should have just paid the admission in full today and had my ticket for tomorrow.

The Baths of Diocletian are interesting, but not exactly what I expect. There’s a museum filled with statues and a cloister from a Carthusian monastery designed by Michelangelo which we check out first. Then we find the area where the baths were, but there’s not much left except the exterior walls.

Since our tickets will get us into the Palazzo Massimo museum for free, we go across the street (to the right on the diagonal when exiting the Baths).
I have now reached my Roman-Bust-Saturation-Point but there’s some interesting sculpture and mosaics here nonetheless. Actually, the mosaics are truly stunning in their size and complexity and the bronze sculpture of the boxer is quite moving. In addition there is the beautiful dining room from Livia’s Villa, the walls of which are completely covered in frescos of a garden.

After the museum we are all exhausted and from the Termini station next door, we catch a bus back to the apartment for a well deserved rest.

In the early evening we go out for a walk around the neighborhood and end up buying some amazing pizza bianca at a little shop with no name located at #1 Via di Santa Dorotea. It’s hot, salty, and brushed with olive oil. Absolutely fabulous.
None of us are particularly in the mood for a large dinner after our late lunch, so we buy more piazza Bianca and bring it back to the apartment to have with a bottle of wine, the cheese, and some pears, purchased earlier in the day at the Campo di Fiori.

Still here, and enjoying it all. getting a much deeper taste of Rome than I ever got when I was there. Much obliged!

I just can't imagine ordering liver for lunch, Lol

Pizza Bianca, cheese, pears, wine -- ideal dinner!

Roman-Bust overload....I hear you.

~Myra

me too - I'm still here and enjoying every mouthful.

even the liver.

Day 4 photos are now up:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/Rome2009Day4.html

Thanks everyone for hanging in there with me, I really appreciate it.

Thanks for putting in the effort!

I love your green hat. I bought a blue scarf the Campo dei Fiori and am happily wearing it now in this crisp weather. Wishing someone would ask me where I got it...

Such wonderful pix! I too love the hat. Know what you mean, mebe. DH bought me a big red one in Paris and not one soul ever asks about it.

Kristina, where/how did you get the "I was quoted in Fodor's" stuff?

Yes, I love the hat though I've not yet had the opportunity to wear it at home. I also like it when people ask me, "where did you get that?" Most of my scarves come from my travels as well. The scarf in that photo came from Vietnam, in case you were wondering.

Tdudette-Every year Fodor's pulls comments off the message boards to put in their guidebooks. In all my years of posting here, this is the first time I was quoted. They email everyone who gets quoted and offer them a free guidebook.

Kristina, as always, your writing and your pictures are wonderful. Since you started this, I've been to Rome and back (November 2-10) but it looks like you had much better weather than I did. I rained every day except once so I got far fewer pictures than I normally would. It was truffle/mushroom season, however, and I got to sample them cooked in a variety of ways, all delicious. I also love your hat; I was tempted by several but ended up buying lots of scarves.

Kristina: Remember for your previous Rome trip you took euros with you to pay for your Rome apt - we will have to pay in euros this Dec 22-29 for Rome apt. We'll be in Paris early Dec (back one week before leaving for Rome) can I take US cash to get euros from bank in Paris to use for Rome apt exchange rate here now stinks - make sense?

LouisaH-You bought scarves?? I didn't see any I could not live without. I usually buy at least one scarf where ever I travel. I wish I had...

joannapv-We bought euros in advance this time too.
I wouldn't take US cash to Paris to buy euros. I don't think the exchange rate will be all that good in a bank, but you can check while there. What I would do is withdraw euros from an ATM while in Paris, the exchange rate is usually better (depending on what your bank charges for international withdrawals).

Kristina, I bought one actual scarf, which is a silk Hermes-inspired scarf, much cheaper, obviously, and I love it. I also bought five "burn-out" velvet scarves but updated (that's the best way I can describe them), one at Sciunnach, a store also mentioned by LowCountryIslander, and four at the Mercato di Via Sannio, where I went instead of Porta Portese. The hard part will be to decide what I can give as Christmas presents, and which ones I cannot part with. That's why I always buy multiples but sometimes it's still really hard to choose!

Thursday, October 15, 2009

The attendant, who refuses to smile, takes our money, opens the door and disappears. We descend 2000 years down a stairwell on the back side of a “modern” Roman building.

It’s about 9am on a Thursday morning and we are with Katie Parla, an American living in Rome and a woman of many hats. This is the start of our 4 hour private “Underground Rome” Tour, custom tailored just for us. She says, about the man who let us in, “He’s always like that. You could tell him he’d just won the lottery and he’d look the same.”

Katie has a degree in Art History from Yale and a Masters in Food and Wine from the University of Rome. She writes for well known guidebooks like the Rough Guide, Fodor’s and DK Eyewitness. She also does private tours and has works with Context Tours. You can find her at her website www.katieparla.com

We’ve met Katie in front of the Church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin. This is the medieval brick church where the Mouth of Truth is located. We are now in a building behind the church, descending into an area called a “Mithraeum” which was used for meetings and ceremonies honoring the God Mithraeus. It is essentially underneath the Circus Maximus. The structure also housed official public offices. We are walking on floors almost 2000 years old and she shows us, based on differing methods of construction how to tell the age of the structure. We see carvings of the God Mithraeus who is usually seen killing a bull and altars for offerings.

From there, we walk over to the Circus Maximus, bordered on one side by the Palatine. It too has not changed much in over 2000 years. We continue walking, past the church of San Giorgio and the arch of Janus. There are rooms inside these mammoth arches. Who knew? They were used as fortresses in times of siege and offices in times of peace.

We make a stop at the Church of San Nicola in Carcere, but for some reason they will not let us go downstairs until later. From there, we walk to the Teatro Marcellus. This is a theater built by Julius Caesar and then converted into a palazzo during the Renaissance. It now has apartments on the top floors. I think it must be one of the coolest places to live, ever.

We walk through the Ghetto and Katie confirms my suspicions about some local restaurants which are over rated and my new found love of the Pasticceria Boccione. We end up at the Crypta Balbi which is about a half a block away from the ruins at Largo Argentina. Again, we are too early for our tour so she takes us out to see the ruins outside. Suddenly, they are all in perspective. While I’ve been here many times, I never really saw the site as a place which held four temples, side by side. I could picture them all along one street. Our friend, Mr. White Cat was still there, topside, looking for some love.

We go back to tour Crypta Balbi's substructure. There are a whole two floors of museums above ground here. I wish I’d realized that and gone back later with my ticket to see them. Underground are the remains of an ancient theater and a series of small ruins. Here we learn that it was not uncommon in ancient times for homes to be built on top of large pits into which garbage was thrown. Unfortunately, sometimes the decomposing trash would build up gasses and explode. Apparently, there are still buildings in Italy today with these trash pits beneath them.

Finally, we return and tour the ancient cattle market buried beneath the Church of San Nicola in Carcere. This time, the attendant there has no issues with letting us go downstairs. The market stalls, along with their built in ledges are still easy to discern even today.

Tip for touring; Have small bills for entrance fees. No one ever has change. Approx 3 euro each, each location. Our tour with Katie Parla was 250€ for a 4 hour personalized tour.

Kristina...

Your tour with Katie Parla sounds great. I don't have a future trip to Rome planned (yet!) but will definitely keep her in mind for a tour!

It’s time for lunch and we had back toward the apartment, hoping to find a place listed in my notes. As we walk though Trastevere, we stop at four different places and all of them are closed! Finally we end up at Tratorria Da Augusto, which a few nights ago we had seen with a line snaking out the door. Today it is crowded, but there is one empty table right next to the front door and we take it.

Both the menu and the food are very simple. I honestly can’t remember much about what we had, probably because I had too much wine. From the photos I know we had gnocchi with a tomato sauce, osso buco with peas (which came to the table tepid), beef with arugula (a little soupy for my taste) and a sausage which wasn’t what we thought it would be. We also had an order of their daily special which was a really wonderful, juicy and tender roasted pork.
I think we had something else, but it’s not in my photos. A note about the wine-we ordered a carafe of the house red and it came to the table ice cold. I asked if we could have white instead because I just can’t drink red wine that cold (on a chilly day too). The woman waiting on us looked perturbed but took it back and brought us a liter carafe of while. Jessica was horrified but fortunately, I saw the red wine went to another table so it was not wasted. Lunch was 45€ for the four of us the total of what we owed was added up by hand on the white paper covering the table.
Trattoria Da Augusto, Piazza de Renzi 15, Tel:06 5803798

Both the menu and the food are very simple. I honestly can’t remember much about what we had, probably because I had too much wine.>>

lol, Kristina - how much is tooo much???

<<osso buco with peas (which came to the table tepid), >>

this is my experience with osso buco in Rome too - it just seems to be how they like it. Fortunately, that's how i like it too!

you did pretty well for €45. I'm adding this place to my [growing] list!

annhig-probably only a couple of glasses, but I'm a lightweight, especially in the middle of the day.

I like my osso buco hot and I prefer it served with some sort of starch, like polenta. This was decent, but not fantastic. I wasn't overwhelmed by this place, but I have a feeling it may have been because of what we chose to order.

kristina, I like mine with rice, and a salad.

Not a fan of polenta, especially when i make it and it spits at me.

It seemed like such a good idea at the time.

After lunch we go back to the apartment for a rest and then go out early to walk around before 8pm dinner reservation at Armando al Pantheon. Our fist stop is Piazza Navona and it’s so nice to see Bernini’s Fontana dei Fiumi fountain uncovered and clean.
From there we walk to the Pantheon and the sun is beginning to set. Inside it’s very crowded. Suddenly I’m not feeling well. In fact, I’m downright queasy. I need to get outside into the fresh air and sit down. Tris wanders around snapping photos to her heart’s content with Jessica and my mom and I sit on the steps next to the fountain across from the Pantheon.

I go to use the bathroom in the stealth Mc Donald’s directly across from the Pantheon (I say “stealth” because there’s no big sign and unless you are looking for it, you might miss it) but I don’t feel any better. Jess and Tris head off to great purse shop they remember from last time and my mom and I go into a snack shop to buy a bottle of aqua con gas for me. All of a sudden I realize what the problem is.

Doh! I have the dreaded “Late Afternoon Hangover.” This occurs when one has too much wine at lunch and not enough water! Four hours later I am regretting this. It seemed like such a good idea at the time.

Unfortunately, our reservation time rolls around and we’re at Armando al Pantheon and I’m not hungry. I’m told to have a drink which will somehow make it me feel better and we order a nice bottle of organic wine from Sicily. It helps a little.

We order a mixed vegetable antipasti plate and two of their wonderful artichokes alla romana to start. We get two pastas; one, our favorite alla verde with aruguala, cheese and lemon, and one with asparagus and pomegranate (note to self; I must make for my food blog!).
For our main courses we share two orders of oxtail which they only make on Thursdays and I have pre-reserved, an order of the lamb chops, and an order of sauteed chicory. Everything is very, very good. Coffee and Amaro Lucano round out the evening. I’m not sure what the dinner cost because my incredible friend Jessica picked up the tab as a “thank you” for all my trip planning. Thank you Jess, for a lovely meal.

On the way home, we gape at what may be the World’s largest mortadella enclosed in a plexigass case in the doorway of a deli in the centro storico. We stop for gelato at Cremi across from our apartment. While it’s not Frigidarium, it’s very good.

Kristina...

I've seen that mortadella too...for the last 2 years I've walked by that deli on each of my trips to Rome and there it is...always the mortadella...one time I even saw a white coat clad butcher happily sawing away a piece!

You are sitting writing when you should be laying flat. Bad back won't heal while sitting at computer.

There! I have done my Mom thing.

Back to Rome: Armando al Pantheon was terrific, but the lunch at Augusto was really medium..but I would go back just to make sure

The hat is sooooo continental--looks great on you! I just wore mine in DC and got lots o compliments.

How DO you say "tail of the dog" in Italian! LOL

Kristine - where is the purse shop? I have worn out the wonderful wallet I got in Rome 9 years ago. Loving your report. I'm going with 2 women friends in May 2010.

Kristina, I'm finally catching up with your trip report- this is wonderful! I feel like I'm reliving my much too brief time in Rome. I still have to check out your pictures but I already took a quick a look at your packing list page and I can't thank you enough for that- I have "issues" with packing light and am determined to do carry only next time and I was blown away by what you were able to pack in a 22 inch suitcase!

Thanks for such a great report, I'm looking forward to reading more.

Photos for day 5 are now online:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/Rome2009Day5.html

Cobbie-I'll be writing more about the purse shop on the last day because we go back there. It's about 1/2 a block from the Pantheon.

Apres Londee-Thanks for the nice comments. If you want to pack light, you can do it!

LCI- Maybe next time you need to stop and buy a slice. Though I do wonder how long it's been sitting there. There's a photo of it on Day 5.