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Trip Report Mostly Food Report on Lyon and Paris- Feb 21-Mar 6

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We spent a week in Lyon and a week in Paris this winter. I don't see much written about Lyon so here is my trip report on Lyon. At the end I will hit on a few places we ate in Paris.

We rented a great apartment:http://www.lepetittramassac.fr/en It was a great location in the old town He rents for less than a week as well as taking cc so reserving and paying is great. I think it is 450 E a week, not sure on that since we rented for 5 nights .That said the apartment is on the 3rd floor, without elevator. The owner met us at the apartment as well as meeting us at the end and carried my overpacked heavy luggage up and down the 58 spiral stairs, thank god he did that. He does this for all his guests...good thing. I had argued with him at first that, NO, I could carry my own luggage but when I saw the stairs I laughed. He was sweating bullets when he finished bringing up the second overpacked bag.

Tourist office: couldn't have been better ,so helpful. We bought two day city passes that got us in to all museums,an all day transportation ticket, and covered the cost of our two walks, one up on the Fourviier Hill with the two roman theaters and one in the old silk area, Croix Rouge. They didn't really have anything in english so we took the french tours, well they were OK, but a little to wordy for my limited french. The tour guidess were great though and tried to tell us in english if we asked. The passes were 30E for two days for one person. The walks themselves are 10E so it was a no brainer.

Lyon: in general a beautiful city, wonderful architecture, very Italian, loved the traboules and wandering through them, they are all maked with a plaque outside of the doors, and at the bottom the info is written in english. You enter one and walk through the buildings inner courtyards, with wells and spiral stone staircases. They are fun to find and all are very different. I do believe that the Lyomaise might be the nicest friendliest people in all of France, and we have been to quite a few areas. We told someone this and they said that they have the exact opposite reputation!

Besides the two walks, we explored the town on our own, went to a few great museums. I really liked the miniature museum, where everything was 1/12 or 1/24th it's size...amazing things that people have made. There is also a section about how they use these miniatures in movies, it was my favorite in Lyon. We also saw the Beaux Arts as well as the history of Lyon, the name escapes me, maybe Garner? The shopping district is big, with no cars, so strolling and shopping was great. Although we really liked visiting Lyon, we knew we would not go back, it just didn't speak to us, which is a good thing because so many other places are calling us.

We are very adventurous eaters, as you will see . The first few dinners were very different than what we were use to. I won't say that they were delicious and I can't wait to have it again, but I'm glad that we tried it.

The Bouchons: not exactly what I was expecting. After eating at two we opted for a young creative modern chef/meal.

La Machonnerie, 36 rue Tramassac, 04 78 42 24 62
One of the good ones in the old town, there are lots of bad places here to eat we were told. This was a very cute restaurant, very friendly staff. The owner seem to socialize with most tables, including ours.
We started off with one of the most unusual amuse bouch, a fresh sourish cream cheese, toasted bread pieces and cold, salty, fried bacon fat, yes, just the fat! We had a delicious salad lyonnaise although the poached eggs were too cooked and didn't run all over the salad, very disappointing. I had the kidneys in a wonderful rich brown sauce, served with a casserole of leeks, they were to die for,you couldn't hardly find the leeks amoungst all the cream, cheese and butter. DH's plat wasn't as successful, it seemed to be a pot eu fue but will all pork products, boiled potatoes and cabbage. It really reminded us of the food in Alsace, which was also not our favorite french food. I have to say there were a few pieces in the pot the I have no idea what they could have been. People looked surprised that we were tasting all of it,must not be comon for Americans,the people at the next table struck up a converrsation after they saw us trying what looked like a ribbon of fat, folded over itself a few times and tied with a string., I haven't a clue what that was, it didn't taste like chicken....with a couple of glasses of wine our bill was about 70E. We found the food to be quite reasonable in Lyon.

Next day we went up to Forviere, looked around the roman theaters and the church. The mosaic murals in the church are just amazing. We decided to have lunch before the scheduled walk.
Le restaurant de Fourvière Adresse : 9 place de Fourvière right next to the church
Téléphone : 04 78 25 21 15

The views are beautiful from the dinning room and we were surprised to have one of our better meals. I had the chicken in vinigar, which I make, but was nothing like this one because I don't put cream in mine, DH had a grilled liver with a parsley garlic sauce, both plats came with potatoes daphine and green beens, really great, we shared an ice cream sunday for desert, total with one glass of wine,about 50E


We also tried Chez Hugon, 12 pizay, 04 78 28 10 94
This was like eating at your grandmothers home. We called the day before and it was all booked for that night so we booked two days out. It's a tiny place with about 12 tables, again, unusual food. The menu was hand written which is sometimes harder for me to read. DH started with a cold pate turrine, served with no bread or mustard, I had boiled potatoes and fish,which was ok, but I think they boiled it in oil?, odd. We saw lamb on the menu,good we like lamb, any lamb cooked anyway, but madam pointed to her head, we "bayed" she said "oui" and we enjoyed the lamb brains, good lemony sauce , probably wont order that again. Again the father and daughter dining next to us engaged us in conversation and invited us to there place in Paris when we returned at the end of the week. We were too sick to take them up on the invitation..too bad.

At this point I have had it with mystery meals and would like to read a menu and know what it is, and not have people at home ask me if it tasted like chicken...NO, it never tastes like chicken.

La Boname de Bruno:5 grand rue des feuillants 04 78 30 83 93 Our best meal by far. We decided that we needed to go back to what we like, young creative chefs. The room was beautifully decorated, the architecture old and the table setting very modern. I started with champagne followed by a delishous Macon, my new favorite white wine. I started with a cold squid salad, sliced very thin with sliced zucchni and a hint of mint, DH had a fresh pear, pealed and sliced and layered with a foi gois terrine between the layers and a wonderful prune sauce on the plate. DH had grilled lamb chops, which were perfect and I had a rabbit soup/stew, the rabbit seemed to have been marinated in red wine, the broth and veggies hit the spot!!!! For desert, chocolate soup, which turned out to be a bowl of chocolate and carmel sauce with a bread pudding square in the center, YUM! I highly recommend this place. Again, our total bill was about 70E

We skipped dinner the next night in favor of drinks at Grand Cafe Negociates. It is a beautiful old fashioned tea room/bar/restaurant in the downtown shopping area. Lovely setting, always packed. We had two drinks, a diet coke and a cheese platter for 20E, quite reasonable considering it looked touristy. Again the people next to use struck up a conversation with us, such nice people in Lyon.



Boulangerie du Palais, 8, Rue du Palais de Justice , 69005 Lyon We loved this bakery. The famous Lyon pastry which is shocking pink, they said it was praline but I've never seen it that color, was to die for. They made about 6 different ones and I have to say ALL were wonderful. We also got sick and could just stumble down to this bakery for bread, pizza sliced and sandwiches, all were just great.

We ended up with some weird virus that made me cough non stop for days and nights, we weren't able to have another nice meal, we really wanted to try Paul Bocuse's smaller restaurants but we couldn't taste anything.

Next up a few notes on Paris.

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