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More of Zurich+ Rapperswil and Einsiedeln

More of Zurich+ Rapperswil and Einsiedeln

Old Nov 13th, 2010, 12:25 PM
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More of Zurich+ Rapperswil and Einsiedeln

Can't believe I'm already home for 8 days!
Left Friday, October 29th for Switzerland, my second trip this year (yahooo!!!)
Arrived Sat, Oct 30 to Zurich. Got my phone card, stamps and ATM withdrawal at the airport, oh, and a strong Starbucks (no sleep on the overnight flight)!
Because my hotel in Rapperswil could not guarantee check-in before noon, I opted to stow my luggage at Stadelhofen (5 chf) and visit the Burkliplatz flea market..huge, by the way.
Cold and cloudy, but I had packed my heavier coat in my suitcase.
Just three weeks status post knee surgery, and feeling my knee stiffen/pain, but I "needed" to see certain things! Found Rathausbruecke and the few late-season fruit and vege market--bought a Birnbrot (pear and fig-filled roll) to try. Found Teuscher's chocolate shop on Storchengasse and bought my allotment of fine chocolates (2 boxes for 72 CHF!). I can't believe that I had actually peered into this shop's fanciful windows in June and didn't realize then that it was Teuschers (said by many to exceed Sprungli in quality).
Strolled down Limmatquai to sit on a bench, and found myself staring at Teddy's Souvenir Shop, my next intended target! Tiny from the outside, red awning, easily missed, just below Grossmunster. Bought a Tshirt or two and a swiss music CD.
By now it is warming up nicely, with the sun peeking through.
Took the 12:15 train to Rapperswil, where I easily located Hotel Jakob on the main square. Nice location, just beneath the castle and town church. The sun is shining and tables are set up outside for luncheon diners! A happy, lively background noise of cafe-goers, german-speaking tourists, children, birds and dogs, while I took a much needed nap. (Sigh of contentment, I'm really here!)
Back up and in action by 3:30. The Polish museum (in the castle) reverts to weekend-only hours after tomorrow, BUT I have plans for tomorrow, so TODAY IT IS! Open until 5 pm--go I must (being of Polish/Austrian/Irish heritage).
Spent an hour inside with exhibits, climbing the tower, then visiting the deer park and lavishly taking photos. Snowy mountains across Zurichsee, and not just the peaks anymore! Visited the Pfarrkirche and the last remaining rose bushes in the church plaza.
Dinner at my own hotel--salad with warm mushroom dressing, pork cutlet with rosemary fingerling potatoes in a flavorful brown gravy and ....tiramisu for dessert. In my room once again, watching Cougartown in german! Clocks turn back tonight--thank goodness, I can use the sleep.
Day two: Slept about ten hours before continental breakfast next door at the Burgcafe. Milchkafee, rolls/jam/meat/cheese, fruit, yoghurt and oj.
Took the 10 am train to HB, where I switched to the Uetliberg train. New area to me. Gentle climb above the city. Cars became very crowded with families, children in strollers. Trees just past peak autumn color, still beautiful.
Walked about 15 minutes along Planetenweg to the summit. Cool to cold, but sunny, and with exertion, sweaty. Free metal tower of 170 steps to consider...hmmm.
Spectacular views of snowy mountain ridges opposite.
Steep steps marked the beginning of the hike (Wanderweg) to Felsenegg. I had planned on doing this after advice on fodors. Walk of about 1.5 hours, then Luftseilbahn down to Adliswil then train back to Zurich. The hiking board described this walk as steep with occasional steps. I was conflicted. Should I? Could my knee 'take' it?
Decided to climb the metal tower on the summit. Much traffic up and down. Freezing wind whipping around. I made about 125 steps before height-phobia and Knie-Schmerz compelled me to stop. Back down and still wishy-washy about the Felsenegg hike. Okay! I'll do it...or start anyway.
Steep steps down, thank god for the railing, many leaves, no walking stick and a freshly bum knee-not the best constellation IMO. OOPS! Not a good choice, even this slight decline was really hurting....Then, a sign to UtoStaffel restaurant. Oh good, maybe I could circle around and abort the Felsenegg hike. Too risky for my already-aching knee (and I'm to return to work as soon as I return home...hmmm).
Stopped for lunch at UtoStaffel resto, sat outside on the terrace with autumn views, eating Linsensuppe with Wienerli and Brot, and of course, Schoko...heavenly.
Circled back down to the train station. Clouding up outside. Because it was still early in the day, decided to visit the Landesmuseum. Called home from the RR to let everyone know I was well.
Normally, the museum entrance price is 10 CHF, but as luck would have it, today, the price was...free!!! Last Sunday of each month (well kept secret). Backpack had to be locked away and no photos. Shame, they had such an extensive and beautiful collection of ceramic tile ovens, among many numerous displays. Special exhibit in the ?basement of religious artifacts, some remarkably preserved items.
Somehow I missed the basement exhibit on medieval wine and book-making...but I had had enough walking by then. Visited the museum gift shop for a few unique, old black 'n' white postcards.
Growing dark at 5:30 with the time change. Why not go to vegetarian Haus Hiltl for dinner? (We missed it in June).
TI in the RR gave me easy walking directions.
Host a little snooty. I was squeezed in upstairs between two couples in an otherwise more than half-empty room (was it the back pack? the fact that I was a single diner? or no reservation? Anyway they lost points here). Reminded me of a NYC hip though condescending eatery....
Had a nice meal of Roesti with drei Gemuese (celery root, carrots and something related to cauliflower) and a large Panache...mmm. Would have liked to try the famous buffet downstairs, but no way I was SQUEEZING back into the tight space.
Back at Shopville (under the main RR), I bought a few less expensive chocolate bars(for me) at Merkur.
No Christmas lights yet on the streets of Zurich.
Back in Rapperswil, explored another lane and found an inviting italian eatery for another night.
Weather forecast on TV--mid 50's all week with possible rain on Tuesday, Nov 2.
Watched an episode of LOST in german.
To be continued.
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Old Nov 13th, 2010, 08:06 PM
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Enjoyed your post! Thanks for including details about food, prices, etc. We were in Zurich in Sept and visited Teddy's! I'll watch for more!
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Old Nov 13th, 2010, 09:34 PM
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Lovely, lovely. It feels like being there!

Thanks!

s
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Old Nov 14th, 2010, 10:47 AM
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Day 3:
November 1st--a holiday here.
Slept poorly last night due to knee acting up. I had been advised to apply an ice pack each evening, but where to find ice in Switzerland? Silly, BESIDES the mountaintops! None in the hotel, no fridge in room, Migros market closed by the time I had gotten back to R'wil last night (I had planned in advance to buy a bag of cheap frozen peas each night to apply). Chemical icepacks available in US are banned from airplanes...Since this trip was a total 'secret' from my workplace, I didn't want to end up on the evening news accused of trying to smuggle potentially explosive icebags on board! Okay, so sink-cold water bottle applied nightly
Tentative plans had been for a 10km level stroll from Meilen to Kusnacht then on to Einsiedeln today, but this was not gonna happen! So I slept a little later and decided to visit Schwyz (investigated by internet previously).
After breakfast of a nice whole grain(!) croissant, oj, banana yogurt and HOT CHOCO (MMMMMMMMM), I walked along the lake promenade to better orient myself to town, then left on the 10 am train for Schwyz (one change in Arth-Goldau). Many military reservists on the way to their mandatory duty aboard.
Actual village of Schwyz was a good 20-25 minute slightly uphill walk from the station. Sunny, sweaty. Of course, stores all closed for the holiday.
There were 11 posted points on a village walking tour
(Dorfrundgang). Sorry, all in german. Viewed a picturesque though somewhat short, tower from 1200, used at one time as a prison (now a printer's workshop), Hauptplatz-included an elaborately painted Rathaus facade from the 17th C, Frauenkloster St. Peter (convent),and Pfarrkirche St. Martin-where I went inside and lit a candle. Many well-preserved and still lived in manor houses along Herrengasse. One interesting-looking museum, not open on a Monday .
Lovely fall foliage and the Mythen mountain peaks behind meadows with cows moo-ing behind apartment buildings.
But now, for lunch on the square.
Sat at an outside table and feasted on a "small plate" of gnocci pasta with Gorgonzola sauce and a panache (14.50 + 4 tip CHF-too much tip in retrospect).
Local musicians starting to gather on the square for some type of procession. But the train beckoned and I was happily full. Aiming to get to the Migros Markt in town for my frozen peas before they closed!
Alas, though Migros was posted as open until 18:00, they were already closed (holiday I guess).
Discovered the busier, modern section of Rapperswil, with a Starbucks no less! A Manor department store with a cafeteria (not open today).
I'm craving something healthy to eat for dinner (ie: no bread, pasta or cheese).
Many diners along the harbor (inside now, since the sun was down). Decided on SanMarco Resto. Although I ordered what I THOUGHT was smoked turkey breast on salad, what I GOT was rucola leaf salad with pancetta, cherry tomatoes and walnuts (turns out I pointed, while I ALSO spoke my order, but the waitress saw the NEXT menu item listed below my choice!)
TG that I am an adventurous eater and BTW, it was excellent!
Knee a bit better, using sink-cold water in my drinking bottle. Snacked on my Birnbrot from first-day Zurich (tastes very much like a big, homemade Fig Newton - not a childhood favorite, but glad that I experienced it!)
Plan return to Zurich tomorrow, more things that I want to see. Can't wait! Bought a 24 hour "9 o'clock daypass" for 23 CHF for this daytrip, assured by RR personnel that this was the cheapest option, given the multitude of 'zones' through which I would travel.
More to come.
R
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Old Nov 14th, 2010, 11:44 AM
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Day 4:
After breakfast, walked up to my local castle again. Lit two candles at the Pfarrkirche. Foggy, cloudy but still warm.
Wandered to the endpoint and down steps, discovering the Kapuzinerkloster. Visited its chapel. The expansie rose gardens have all been trimmed back by now. The vineyards stretching in tidy rows up the hill are full of beautiful yellow leaves. Walked along the lakefront/harbor and then window-shopped a bit.
Took 11 am to HB. Found Augustinergasse on the free map (with the help of the TI). How could I have missed it in June? Absolutely beautiful with many colorfully painted oriel windows on this narrow cobbled lane. Sat a bit and soaked up the ambience on a bench at the first fountain-square.
Such an oasis of quiet just yards from the frantic traffic of business Zurich!
Came across an enticing Christmas shop - Pegasus Verzaubt, I think. Spent over 1/2 hour inside, not to mention the 135 CHF old-fashioned tree ornaments, tins, nostalgic postcards...!
Lunchtime all around, but I wanted to get my visit in to the Zunfthaus zur Meisen in Munsterhof first (porcelain museum).
3 CHF entrance. The Landesmuseum actually had far more of the tiled ovens...but it was a nice display over two very large rooms with excellent views out the windows to Munsterbrucke.
Finally the need for food and a WC weighed heavily.
Crossed the bridge back to Bellevue, aiming initially for Schobers, BUT I came to Teuscher's Felix Cafe first.
decorated inside and out for Christmas, looked inviting.
Most excellent choice for lunch (the most expensive on my trip).
Heavenly thick, rich and creamy hot chocolate for 9 CHF, with a side salad, curry poulet pot pie, stilles wasser and Macchiato cake for a total of 48 CHF! (And that day, I was worth it!) Can you say himmlich?
Afterwards, I walked to Napfgasse...to be continued.
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Old Nov 15th, 2010, 05:06 AM
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Enjoying your post! I applaud you for taking on this adventure so soon past knee surgery! It's intersting to hear about places we didn't see!
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Old Nov 15th, 2010, 03:34 PM
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Found Napfgasse with a little effort. Oh, THIS was the place where my friend had found Cafe Voltaire and I had seen the enticing fossil store--and THERE was Schobers! Because the small, tiered, outside terrace of this famous bakery-cafe only got a sliver of sunshine, the patrons sitting outside were provided with a fleece/sheepskin chair cover to help ward off the chill--clever!
Saw the Schnaps boutique, but decided against transporting this type of fragile purchase back home. But was that alluring fossil store nearby? Yes! Siber&Siber had a different window display of their gem and stone collections now.
I have not previously collected this sort of thing, but the trilobite fossils had me hooked. After scrutinizing many, I chose one. The owner assured me that it was NOT a cast reproduction, and included a certificate about its age and where found. I bought a second, tightly wound organism (?name) that appeared silver and could be worn as a necklace since there was a small hole at the center the the thing.
The age and find location was also given. It had turned this color due to Pyrite (or fool's gold) in the surrounding stone leaching into it over the thousands (?millions) of years.
Finally, I couldn't resist a fossilized cave bear's tooth from 30,000 years ago, Russia. Credit card was smokin' today!
Then after much meandering, I finally found Rennweg and the Spielzeugmuseum (toy "museum" and I use that term loosely!)
On the 5th floor of a building, free entrance, two moderate-sized rooms. A limited, eclectic collection, but by no means exhaustive, and dating back to only 1890 or so.
So to the train station (getting dark now at 5 pm).
Shopville is an extensive maze of stores under the train station, always bustling, and I believe, most stores remain open till at least 9 PM!
I picked up an nice-sized mozzarella/tomato salad with Balsamic vinaigrette AND a fruit-and-nut-studded roll for only 8 CHF-this would be dinner tonight!
AND hurrah, Migros market was still open back in Rapperswil!
Bought a package of hot chocolate mix to take home, AND the long-awaited frozen peas for an icepack!
After yummy salad and icepack treatment in the hotel room, I went down to the hotel bistro for an Edelbrau Calanda beer.
Served in a tall thin glass. With the table's candle just behind the beer, a beautiful still life of amber glowing liquid, fine bubbles rising--reminded me of electric candlelights on the childhood Christmas tree! (Too bad I hadn't taken my camera down).
Plan a trip to Stanserhorn mountain tomorrow. Will only take the trip up if the weather cam down below looks promising, as it costs 64 CHF. Will need an earlier start.
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Old Nov 16th, 2010, 12:16 AM
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Looking forward to more!
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Old Nov 16th, 2010, 05:54 PM
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Enjoyed the newest report. Do you have photos you can post?
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Old Nov 17th, 2010, 09:15 AM
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Well...I have some really beautiful shots with gorgeous autumn foliage (if I proudly say so myself), BUT at this point, I do not yet have the technological savvy nor appropriate ?hook-up/port to post. However, I am looking for help from a sib or two, and hope to learn how before Christmas (no, I'm not kidding!).
Next installment tonight....
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Old Nov 17th, 2010, 10:15 AM
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Or now!
Day #5:
My standard breakfast of croissant, roll, butter/jam, banana yogurt (can't find this good flavor with real fruit bits at home) and hot chocolate (I alternate each morning with Milchkaffee--the waitress sort of smiles, I guess not too usual)!
Ticket to Stans 62 CHF with a change in Luzern (20 minute layover). Short stroll along this lake.
Followed signe in Stans to Stanserbahn. Up above cam looking good, so purchased RT ticket for 64 CHF. Many older people on this 1893 "Nostalgie"-funicular. Passed meadows with cows nearby. Changed to a gondola about 1/3 of the way up--standing room only now! Sunny and clear.
Stans lies at 451m, 14 minute beautiful ascent. Stanserhorn at 1891m. Snow on terrace, all trails except Gipfelrundweg (path to peak) were closed as expected. Nearly everyone else flew to the restaurant. The path to the Gipfel had been cleared of snow, was wide, so I headed up.
Breathtaking views (where are those photos to share?), with haunting sounds of wind and a refreshing scent--sweet...earth?
Many photos, including those of me by kind co-trekkers.
After an easy 15 minutes-the peak was reached. Photo boards with the names of the numerous surounding mountains. Started back down, then sat on a bench to prolong the experience and just...breathe.
Okay, back down to the self-service resto with many options.
Got an Appenzeller beer (same price as water), Kalbwurst with onion sauce and french fries for 22.40 CHF.
Sat at a perimeter window (glass top to bottom), before I realized that the 'revolving' restaurant actually only involved the inner, raised portion .
By then, all seats up there were taken! No matter, I had seen all those great views up-close on my little walk! (Including, it is said ten lakes).
Reasonably priced desserts called my name (how did they know it?), so I splurged on a piece of Black Forest Cherry Cake too (4.50 CHF). Finally, back down to Stans. Couldn't have had better or more clear weather today. Walked the main street of Stans, bought a couple more Christmas tree ornaments (carousel horses). On to Dorfplatz with its dominating church SS Peter and Paul -locked though...

On the way back 'home', I decided to spend a couple of hours in Luzern (previously visited 2 or 3 times).
There was an open-air market not far from the train station.
Bought a piece of delish marzipan-filled cake, and a neck scarf (all the rage with these european women over here)!
Waled the covered bridge and got some cool sunset photos.
Bought an english newspaper back at the station, but no results yet from yesterday's government elections-bummer, how did it end?
Back in Rapperswil by 7PM. Tonight I planned for Pizzeria de Medici for dinner. Resto up one flight, delicious garlicky aromas wafting down the steps. Cozy italian eatery, brick oven for pizzas, but much, much more on the menu.
I got pesto penne (LOVE the green stuff) and a large iced tea (no ice is the norm). The BESTEST pesto ever! (23 + 3 tip).
Really starting to get crowded as I left about 8:30 or so.
Back at my room, watching something similar to "The Bachelor"
called "Bauer, ledig, sucht..." Like a personal ad that a single farmer would post and subsequent dates set up with various respondents... a hoot.
Decide to entirely skip the Meilen to Kusnacht walk tomorrow and further explore my own surroundings in order to ease up on my knee. After walking the wooden bridge to Hurden, I'll visit Einsiedeln.
Oh, what about USAir check-in? I'll need to find a computer somewhere too.
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Old Nov 17th, 2010, 01:38 PM
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Day #6 - November 4th:
My last full day in Switzerland--boy, did that go fast!!
Slept a bit later (9 am) mindful of breakfast end time (10 am). Warm and nicely sunny outside. After breakfast I meandered along the lake promenade to the Holzsteg (wooden bridge) which crosses over the river to the next town of Hurden (841 meters--is that about a half mile?).
Ducks and the occasional swan. Signs describing the various nature plants (protected) and changing habitat (lake-marsh-meadow). New views of Rapperswil with its castle and church dominating it.
Not much to see in Hurden, though a small chapel proclaimed that it was there 137 years before Columbus discovered America! Nice inside with dreamy lake and mountain vistas from the altar area windows(I'd go to church everyday just for the views!)
Ambled slowly back to Rapperswil. Tourist Info not yet open (hours are now an inconvenient 1pm-5pm).
Sat at Fischmarktplatz,at Conditorei Rosenstaedter, in the sun, for lunch (aahhh). Had Kaesesalat (salad with grated gruyere cheese), roll and Rivella. Rivella now comes in regular, green tea and diet. It tastes like a mild gingerale (to me) and utilizes part of the ubiquitous whey produced during cheese-making here in SW. Its carbonated, refreshing AND provides a bit of protein as well! (20 CHF with tip).
At 1 pm, the TI opened. They had a computer and charged 3 CHF for 15 minute Internet usage (plenty of time to check in for tomorrow's flight and review a couple of personal emails).
Good-that task is done.
Freshened up back at my hotel, then on to Einsiedeln (34 minutes and 23.60 CHF).
Easy walk along busy Hauptstrasse past the Dorfzentrum and to the Kloster (17th century monastery). Imposing structure-dominates the entire end of town. Lovely stone plaza with benches in front, but many souvenir stalls below sort of detracted a bit.
Golden Frauenbrunnen was outside (Mary fountain). People were filling bottles with this water, I believe, said to help ailments.
Went inside to the main foyer, to see the black marble Gnadenkapelle with the Black Madonna. No photos, quiet and dignified prayer. Entire monastery ceiling and walls are fantastically painted in rococco style-mainly gold and pink.
Bought a votive for mom.
Afterward, I found the Klosterladen (shop) to the right and bought a bottle of monastery-produced white wine and a few medallions to take home.
Following this, I had been tipped off by posters on this forum, that the monastery/town raised some type of well-known horses (? name). I asked for the stalls, and found a number of handsome horses out well BEHIND the monastery (behind an archway). Some were gentle enough to allow nuzzling....
My next destination was the Goldapfel Nostalgieladen - a Lebkuchen "museum /shop". This maker claims to be the oldest continuous baker of Lebkuchen in the area (a mild gingerbread type of confection). They've also branched out into chocolates ).
Many of their original forms dated back to the 1700's. Old baking equipment also interested this baker (and someday-hoped-for Konditorei owner!)
Well, sample I must! Short little video plays reviewing production of this treat.
They also had locally produced Kirsch (cherry liquer) in tiny sample bottles. Nice town with many shops, beautiful old houses, quaint lanes.
Back to Rapperswil for my last evening .
Dinner at my hotel of yummy sald, lasagne and chocolate bread.
Paid my hotel bill tonight as I ws leaving about 6 am and reception desk became staffed only at 7 am. Jazz in bistro tonight, but it didn't carry up to the room, even with the window cracked.
Oh well, its getting late and I still have to pack.
Trip home uneventful with a half-empty plane and room to stretch out.
Glad I was able to travel a second time this year, and pleased with all my daytrip choices.
Can't wait to share my photos and souvenirs with loved ones at home!
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Old Nov 17th, 2010, 09:21 PM
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November has been a very good month for visiting Switzerland. Last weekend we had very warm 20C temperatures. Then the winds came and zap, the temperature dropped and we now have snow on the ground from 900 m up.

Your report and last weekend are proof that November can be very idealic to visit Switzerland.

Thanks again.
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Old Nov 17th, 2010, 09:57 PM
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mokka - Many thanks for your detailed report. You took me on a mental stroll along old familiar places. You're an intrepid traveler especially considering your painful knee. I was intrigued by your hobby and amazed by your thorough local research. Kudos for the correct German spelling!

Being a chocoholic, I also enjoyed reading about your meals. Looking forward to seeing your photos.
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Old Nov 19th, 2010, 05:09 AM
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waggis- thanks!
You picked that chocoholic tendency up did you ;-)!
Hoping that photos will be posted Thanksgiving weekend....
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Old Nov 22nd, 2010, 04:54 PM
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Can't wait to see your photos! Thanks for such an interesting report!
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Old Dec 24th, 2010, 12:46 PM
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Finally, my photos! Sorry no captions for now. Write with questions.

http://myp.mypicturetown.com/myphoto/member/myphoto.jsp
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