MlleFifi's week in Par(ad)is, with a side trip to Nancy

Oh, MFifi, I was past our return from Paris by now, then you had to start up this report!

Ah, lovely, please continue.

Wonderful start to your report -- I'm looking forward to the rest.

More, please!

Johanna

Looking forward to more!

MademoiselleFifi- Wow, I can't believe you are back already! Time sure flies by quickly when you're having a good time! Can you tell me what 18" rollaboard you ended up getting and do you like it?

Fifi, I was just thinking about you the other day because I know you stayed in the apartment on JP Timbaud and I was wondering how you made out and hoped to ee your trip report soon. And here you are. Can't wait to read more!

This will be excellent.

Good start - can't wait for more!

Fifi Don't stop now. I have had a hell of a day and need some relief. Hey I'm in Detroit and it's been a painful day. I came here for some much needed distraction.

Thanks Theresa

Thanks for the encouraging comments! Weekend is finally here, so I'll have time to sort and upload some photos.

Day 1, continued

The Roissybus drops off behind the Opera Garnier. The day is cold but beautiful, with a photogenic blue sky. http://images47.fotki.com/v1404/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B4038-vi.jpg First stop: Repetto on rue de la Paix for a new pair of my favorite ballet slippers, in leather as soft as kid gloves. This store, founded by Rose Repetto, the mother of Roland Petit, also sells dance-inspired street shoes in gorgeous colors, but those are way beyond my budget. There's a snowy display in the windows. http://images47.fotki.com/v1400/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B4045-vi.jpg

Next, metro line 3 to "my" apartment in the 11eme. http://images45.fotki.com/v1424/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B4051-vi.jpg Thanks to Apres Londee's trip report last spring (http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=35128263) , I can now afford to stay in an apartment even on solo trips. Her report describes the place in detail, so I don't need to repeat here.

Don't we always underestimate the down-time needed on the first day. When reading another trip report on Fodor's recently, I didn't understand how they landed at CDG in the morning, settled into their apartment, and were suddenly watching the sunset at the Eiffel Tower-- what happened to all the time in between? Now I remember. After various errands (such as trying to load my Navigo pass for the next week, forgetting it couldn't be done before Friday) and distractions (snapping photos, sampling pastries, soaking in the sound of the beautiful language, and just ogling the sights I've been missing for 51 long weeks), I don't arrive at the apartment until a little past noon. The neighborhood looks much brighter than in the Pages Jaunes photos. I love the winding wooden staircase (102 steps) and the Pissarro-esque view of the zinc roof tops. http://images42.fotki.com/v1372/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6535-vi.jpg
I set up the wifi on my computer, check some museum websites, and intend to go right out to buy groceries and supplies but feel too dead-tired to move (not jet lag but just sleep debt). Lie down for a while and finally get head out again in the late afternoon.

Been curious about the Bibliotheque des Arts Decoratifs for a long time. According to their website, anybody can obtain a library card by providing a small photo and an ID. Having had no luck finding any good books about Nancy in NY book stores, I decide to try there. Turns out I don't even have to set up a library card-- the librarian just writes up a temporary one-week pass. My search for "l'Ecole de Nancy" on their database turns up a long list of books, from the early 1900s to the present, some in English even. Unfortunately, it's only a half hour before closing time, so it's too late to ask for any of the (non-circulating) books. Next time.

Before heading over to the Musee de la Mode et du Textiles next door (open late Thursday nights), I stroll around outside for a while. Wanting to pick up some Dondon & Kamkam (http://www.petsatwork.fr/) items at Colette, I look in vain on the wrong block of rue St Honore for the store. Lesson: the numbers on the odd and even sides of the street do NOT match up! #213 is across from #330, nowhere near #204. That's OK; even getting lost in Paris is fun. The Palais Royal Metro entrance looks like sparkling jewelry at night.
http://images44.fotki.com/v1418/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B4079-vi.jpg
http://images48.fotki.com/v1408/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B4082-vi.jpg
When it becomes too cold outside, I return to the Musee de la Mode to see its Sonia Rykiel exhibit. It's much bigger than I expected. The first few rooms were so-so, not really my style, but the second floor had some fascinating pieces. Didn't have time for the furniture at Musee des Arts Decoratifs (included on the same ticket) before closing.

Tomorrow: trip to Nancy, the birth place of macarons and Galle.

Wonderful reporting, MademoiselleFifi!

"even getting lost in Paris is fun." So true.

The metro pictures are gorgeous.

We'll be in Nancy next summer, so I await your comments.

Good job!

All these years of going to Paris, I've never ventured anywhere else in France. Being an art nouveau fan, I decide to add on Nancy this time. I want to thank all you Fodorites for your helpful input during my research phase.

None of the guidebooks at my local book stores provide much detail on Nancy-- some have only one or two paragraphs, at most two or three pages-- and I don't want to lug around a heavy book on all of France anyway. This old NY Times article http://travel.nytimes.com/2007/07/29/travel/29dayout.html and Nancy's tourist office site http://www.ot-nancy.fr/ are useful.

Day 3 -- Self-guided art nouveau tour of Nancy

(Warning: this part may get long and wordy because I'm obsessed with this stuff. That's why I travel solo to such places-- no travel companion would have the patience to tag along while I gawk at fancy doorknobs).

The alarm clock buzzes at 5:50am. Not having shopped yet, I have no shampoo but the dish soap works surprisingly well. Although I'll be staying overnight, I don't want to have to worry about what to do with luggage before check-in and after check-out, so I bring just my large handbag with a change of scarf, underwear, and socks, plus my little computer (shouldn't have) and camera.

Two short metro rides to Gare de l'Est, a nice tarte au sucre aux framboise for breakfast, and I'm on the 7:12 TGV to Nancy. About 2/3 of the way there, snow appears along the train tracks. When we arrive in Nancy, there's no snow, but it's VERY cold. Even with gloves on, my fingers hurt.

Looking out from the train station across Place Thiers, one distinctive building stands out, with strange spiky shapes on top. It turns out to be Brasserie l'Excelsior. The interior decor is sumptuous, but the breakfast menu doesn't look very interesting, so I continue on one of the art nouveau walks downloaded from the OT site, http://www.ot-nancy.fr/brochures/art_nouveau.pdf (the yellow trail). On Place Maginot, booths that resemble little wooden huts are set up for a Christmas market. http://images48.fotki.com/v1407/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4092e-vi.jpg

One of the prettiest AN buildings is the Chamber of Commerce at the T-intersection of rue Henri Poincare and Rue Chanzy, with lacy ironwork, a gracefully curved glass awning, and stained-glass windows depicting various industries.
Entrance: http://images45.fotki.com/v1424/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4114-vi.jpg
Windows: http://images42.fotki.com/v1372/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4123-vi.jpg

Nearby on rue Stanislas stands Immeuble Margo, an apartment building from 1906. As I'm admiring the sinuous facade, a resident returning home lets me in to see the lobby and stairwell. That's the nice thing about less touristy cities like Nancy and Budapest-- people living in landmark buildings are happy to show them to visitors; I don't expect the same welcome in, say, 29 ave Rapp in Paris or the Osborne in NY.
Facade: http://images44.fotki.com/v1420/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4147-vi.jpg
Stairs: http://images43.fotki.com/v1389/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4143-vi.jpg
Ironwork: http://images47.fotki.com/v1397/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4145-vi.jpg
Exterior: http://images45.fotki.com/v1424/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4146-vi.jpg

A fun trompe l'oeil painting: http://images47.fotki.com/v1401/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4161-vi.jpg

By now, I'm really freezing. Now, winter is my favorite time of year and I love off-season travel, but this week feels MUCH colder than the same time last year. Although there's not much wind, the "Feels like" temperature on weather.com is 8 degrees lower than the actual temperature (high 30s to low 40s). Luckily, my next stop, the former Banque Renauld built in 1910, is now a PNB Paribas open to the public and heated, so I take a break in there. The marble staircase has an intricate leafy metal railing by Louis Majorelle; too bad my badly-focused photo doesn't do it justice.

On to rue St Jean. The former Graineterie Genin (1901) is currently vacant and being renovated inside. Wonder what it will become next? I hope some charming boulangerie and not just a chain clothing store; this street is filled with many H&Ms, Gaps, etc. Wouldn't this house look great with baguettes and croissants in the windows?
http://images43.fotki.com/v1386/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4181-vi.jpg
http://images47.fotki.com/v1399/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4186-vi.jpg

Still freezing, I duck into a boutique and buy a thick, fluffy sweater-dress (19 euros) to layer over what I already had on. Much better. Another AN building now houses a McDonald's, and I stop in to use the toilettes. It's locked and requires a code from a receipt to unlock, so I buy a chocolat chaud and a pastry from the McCafe section up front. Surprisingly, it's thick real chocolat chaud like at other French cafes, not instant sugar-water like from US fast-food places, and the tarte aux framboise is not bad either.

A few other gems along the AN trail include the former Arnoux-Masson tailor shop (1911-13) http://images45.fotki.com/v1394/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4211e-vi.jpg
the credit Lyonnais' enormous glass ceiling (1901)
http://images43.fotki.com/v1384/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4238-vi.jpg
the wood and iron doors of the turquoise-blue tiled Pharmacie Rosfelder (1902, and still a pharmacy now, with an un-decorative preservatifs dispenser out front-- had that be around in 1902, would it have been in ornate bronze?)
http://images42.fotki.com/v1373/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4267e-vi.jpg
the carved wood on the former Magasin Gouchaux of 1901, now a bank (I wish I knew enough about botany to describe identify all these plants)
http://images48.fotki.com/v1408/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4281-vi.jpg
http://images47.fotki.com/v1397/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4285-vi.jpg
and the Maison du Peuple (1900-02) with sculptures by Victor Prouve.
http://images44.fotki.com/v1418/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4330-vi.jpg

The end of AN trail #1 brings me to the spectacular Place Stanislas. From descriptions in books, I expected it to be a smaller version of Brussels' Grand Place, but it's completely different, grand yet muted-- for some reason, it reminds me of one of my favorite places, the War Memorial Opera House in San Francisco. Here's a view which, by chance, happens to be same perspective as on the Bergamotes tin: http://images47.fotki.com/v1402/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4290e-vi.jpg
At the tourist office, I pick up a map and a shiny new copy of the AN brochure that I had printed out on a bad ink-jet printer. So much more legible. I ask the man at counter how long it would take to do all five walks. "Trois heures." "Pour tout?" "Oui." He points to the map, une heure for these two sections, une heure for those other two, and about une heure more for the rest. Hmmm, I've been here over five hours and have barely finished ONE trail. And I'm not even a slow walker. Guess I stop for too many photos.

The Musee des Beaux Arts is on Place Stanislas, but, wanting take advantage of the remaining daylight, I stroll around a bit more first, up past Place de la Carriere (kind of gloomy and deserted) to Place St-Epvre. Unfortunately, the basilica is closed. There's a note on the door announcing that mass will take place in the crypt, so the main part must be undergoing restoration work. Been so busy gawking at architectural details that I've forgotten to stop for lunch and am suddenly starving. Luckily, my other destination on Place St-Epvre is open. Patisserie Adam is known for a pastry called the St-Epvre, made from "almond meringue, vanilla cream, and crushed nougatine." Local customers are busy ordering a birthday cake and buying desserts for the night, so it doesn't seem to be a tourist trap. I pick up a St-Epvre, a tourte lorraine, and the most delicious quiche aux poireaux. http://images46.fotki.com/v1395/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4372-vi.jpg

Back to Place Stanislas for the Musee des Beaux Arts. With limited time, I take just a brief look through the ground floor paintings before heading down to the basement for their immense collection of Daum glass. These alone are worth the trip!
http://images47.fotki.com/v1399/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4406-vi.jpg
http://images47.fotki.com/v1399/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4460-vi.jpg
http://images44.fotki.com/v1419/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4478-vi.jpg

When the museum closes, it's already very dark out, and Place Stanislas and the surrounding streets are lit up with Christmas lights. I finally check into Hotel de Guise, rest for a while, and go to dinner at nearby P'tit Cuny. Flammenkuche menu: one with saumon for the main course and one with mirabelles for dessert.

I love your photos from Nancy, it looks so beautiful (and cold...something about the light, it really does look cold!)

>>>Hmmm, I've been here over five hours and have barely finished ONE trail. And I'm not even a slow walker<<<

Same here. I'm a fast walker, but incredibly slow when it comes to sightseeing. The number one major benefit of solo travel = not getting dragged away from anything before you're ready.

Where did you take ballet class? Are there places with something like an open master class? I always wished I'd kept up taking classes after I quit.

Beautiful pictures - I love the way you are including them in your report.

I'm obsessed with art nouveau too and am so enjoying your report!

I am enjoying your report too, it brings back memories of Nancy and your photos capture the feel perfectly. I especially like your stairwell photo, excellent.

Lovely, lovely, lovely .

The glass ceiling of the CL - so beautiful!

I am enjoying soaking up the delicious flavor of Nancy with you. You have surely captured its beauty in your writing and photos.

M Fifi-

Finally caught up with the most recent posts. LOVE your Nancy descriptions and photos. Love the Art Nouveau architecture and decors. I need to save your TR so that I can follow your footsteps when i go to Nancy (which has been pushed up my list based on your report).

BTW, your London trip report was such a gem, and thanks to you for inspiring me to visit Leighton House, William Morris Gallery, and the V&A dining rooms.

Looking forward to the rest!

Still waiting to here what brand of 18" carryon you used.

Nancy is a gem for Art Nouveau, but for those with time to head up the A31 autoroute for 40 minutes or take a regional train, nearby Metz is a totally different gem of Prussian architecture.

In any case, this report is great. My mother went to university in Nancy and has always talked about it fondly, even though it was during WW2 and the city was being bombed.

I often comment that I've learned a lot on Fodor's, to the point that it may sound phoney.

In all my trips to France, I have never been to Nancy and knew nothing about it other than a vague idea of location.

Now it's on my list, preferably for warmer weather. 5 F today where I live so I "feel your pain."

Great trip report.

Great report! Looking forward to more...

Wow! I have been reading this with enjoyment, but your trip to Nancy really took my breath away. My wife is a glass artist, and I can't wait for her to get home to show her some of your shots.

We will certainly include Nancy in our next trip to France.

Great report! Sigh. Now I'm going to have to go to Nancy too! Who knew??
Please continue...

I am LOVING your report. I've not been to Nancy, but it certainly looks like a place I would enjoy! Your pictures are fabulous! Love art nouveau! The ironwork is wonderful!

Can't wait for the next installment!

Wonderful report.
And I copmpletely agree: I also thought the Daum collection was reason enough to visit Nancy, which I did for 2 days (not conecutive) last April.
And I also agree with Kerouac: Metz is a gem of a different kind. I had the good fortune to stay there on my trip for just over 5 days and was so pleased. The Prussian architecture, the old town, place Saint Louis, place de la Comédie, all worth a visit. Such a pleasant town.

Oh how you make me wish I were in Paris!!
We spent a day in Nancy and lunched at the Excelsior and bought the bergamottes that are the specialty of Nancy at Lefevre-Lemoine on the rue Henri Poitcare. I chose the red tin box that you see "Amelie" finds in the wall.

Thanks, everyone. Kerouac and Keren, I just Googled Metz, and it does look tempting. Maybe I'll combine it with a trip to Strasbourg next time. YK and Apres, I haven't forgotten your questions-- luggage shopping and dance classes coming up soon.

Oops, the last entry should be "Day 2"; Day 3 is coming up next-- wish I knew the mysterious trick of editing old posts.

Day 3 -- Musee de l'Ecole de Nancy & Villa Majorelle

My breakfast is a tourte lorraine and the St-Epvre (http://images46.fotki.com/v1415/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4559e-vi.jpg) which, even day-old, taste divine. The free wifi at Hotel de Guise doesn't work on the third floor. Should have left my computer in Paris instead of lugging it around all day-- with so much walking, even 2 pounds make big difference.

The Musee Lorrain and Eglise des Cordeliers are just a few steps from the hotel, but they don't open until 10 am, and I need to get going. Grand Rue leads to the medieval Craffe Gate (http://images42.fotki.com/v1375/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4576-vi.jpg), and beyond that the Citadelle gate (http://images48.fotki.com/v1411/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4582-vi.jpg), once separated by a moat but not anymore.

I stroll past a few more unusual houses such as the whimsical Maison Huot (notice the tree-like windows!) and the colorful Maison Bouret before taking the #123 bus to Musee de l'Ecole de Nancy. Lots of fabulous furniture, Galle lamps, and other objets d'art. What makes this place especially enjoyable and less "museum-like" is that the pieces are not stuck in display cases but arranged in whole period rooms, re-creating Majorelle's bedroom, the 1903 Masson dining room, etc. I love how the furniture are not disjointed pieces but meld into the woodwork of the walls and ceilings. There's even music to go with it all-- a great gesamtkunstwerk. No photography allowed inside, so y'all have to go and see for yourselves. I really want the book, but my bag is already so heavy that I have to settle for a few postcards instead. Among the postcards is a photo of a stunning 1900 gown called "Bord de Riviere au Printemps" (river bank in spring) designed by Victor Prouve, with a large beaded dragonfly on the bodice and sheer cut-out embroidery of waves along the hem, in ivory, turquoise, and antique gold. I ask the woman at the desk if that's here at the museum. She says it is but not currently on display-- it's extremely fragile and rarely shown, about once every 8 or 10 years. The most recent showing was during their special Victor Prove exhibit which ended a few weeks ago-- I've just missed it!!

Maison Huot: http://images43.fotki.com/v1369/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4595e-vi.jpg
Maison Huot detail: http://images47.fotki.com/v1402/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4595detail-vi.jpg
Maison Bouret: http://images47.fotki.com/v1400/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4601cr-vi.jpg
Garden of the Musee de l'Ecole de Nancy: http://images43.fotki.com/v1385/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4618-vi.jpg
Peeking through a window of the aquarium in the garden: http://images48.fotki.com/v1410/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4622-vi.jpg

AN trail #3, the area near the musee, is short and quick, with the green-domed Nancy Thermal pools, the Sainte-Marie park, Maison Biet, and some quaint little residential houses along rue Felix-Faure.
http://images47.fotki.com/v1398/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4673-vi.jpg
http://images46.fotki.com/v1395/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4693-vi.jpg
http://images43.fotki.com/v1367/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4631-vi.jpg
http://images47.fotki.com/v1400/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4639-vi.jpg

Villa Majorelle, where Louis Majorelle lived and worked, is shown by guided tours only, twice a day on Saturdays (plus Sundays during warmer months). Reserve ahead by email (http://edn.nancy.fr/web/index.php?page=infos-pratiques-2) -- they do sell out, even off-season. It's in French, but even if you don't speak French, take the tour anyway, to look at the house. The guide points out many interesting details that I wouldn't have notice on my own, such as how each room is designed around a different motif related the function of the room-- wheat for the dining room, ivy for the stairwell.... Again, no photos allowed inside; here are a few from the outside:
Graceful awning above the front door: http://images47.fotki.com/v1404/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4707-vi.jpg
Terrace with iridescent ceramics: http://images42.fotki.com/v1373/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4744-vi.jpg
Our tour guide pointing out the details: http://images42.fotki.com/v1363/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4721-vi.jpg
Resident cat who joined us during the tour of the garden: http://images48.fotki.com/v1408/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4705e-vi.jpg

After the guided tour, AN trail #4 takes me from the villa back toward the train station, ending just as the sun sets.
69 & 71 ave Foch (1902-04) http://images46.fotki.com/v1416/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4770-vi.jpg
Maison du Dr Jacques (1905) http://images44.fotki.com/v1417/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4787-vi.jpg
Immeuble Biet (1901-02) http://images42.fotki.com/v1378/photos/8/852267/7008224/F11B4803-vi.jpg

Since Nancy claims to have invented the macaron, of course I can't leave without sampling some. Back to Place Stanislas for one last look, stopping at Hotel de Ville where I had forgotten to look for its grand staircase yesterday, and then I go shopping at Maison des Soeurs Macarons for a box of macarons and a small tin of Bergamotes. Macarons de Nancy are different from Parisian macarons-- they look more like cookies, without creamy filling and not pastel-colored. They're gift-boxed and tied up with a ribbon, so I can't taste them right away.
http://english.macaron-de-nancy.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=ShowPage&page=99

On the way back to the train station, I see a street vendor whose sign, from very far away, looks like "m__rons chauds." What? Warm, freshly-baked macarons? No, closer up, it reads "marrons chauds"-- roasted chestnuts! Hot, soft, and very delicious. The Village Noel on Place Maginot is beautifully lit up and very busy. I get a gauffre with creme de marron, and then it's time to catch my train. The town is lovely, the days are too short, and there are many more things I'd like to see, but for once I'm not sad to go home because, this week, "home" is a cozy little studio in Paris!

To edit your old posts, go into your history and find the screen where you previewed your reply. Then press the edit button and edit and then post it. This is not foolproof; sometimes the edit won't take. But it usually works.

Love the rest of your Nancy description and the photos. Do you think 2 days is enough or did you feel rushed to see everything?

Hi YK,

I think with warmer weather and longer daylight hours, 2 days would be perfect, but with the early sunset and freezing temperatures (having to take frequent breaks) I felt rushed.

Nikki,

I tried that this morning, but the old post didn't change. Backing up in my still-open window to add to this post works. Is there a time limit?

Found a photo of the Prouve gown online:
http://www.mairie-metz.fr/METZ/MUSEES/EXPOS/0102/images/PICTO_gd_robprouve.jpeg

(I was mistaken-- the waves are not sheer; they just seemed transparent because some of the embroidery is the same color as the floor).

No time limit. I do find that when I copy something from a Word document, it might not like being edited. Other than that, I think it works pretty consistently for me.

Day 4 -- Impressive students and sneaky waiters

It rained during the night, and old cities are always more enchanting after a storm.
http://images44.fotki.com/v1417/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B4827-vi.jpg
http://images46.fotki.com/v1413/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B4828-vi.jpg

Today I have tickets to two Demonstrations de l'Ecole de Danse at Opera Garnier, where Chagall's ceiling always makes me smile. http://images46.fotki.com/v1416/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B4854e-vi.jpg These annual performances by students of the school of the Paris Opera Ballet are such a treat. Tickets sell out quickly-- I ordered mine online the very first day they went on sale, back in September, and even then seat availability was quite limited. The morning performance features young students doing classroom exercises on stage, with explanation, narration, and correction by their teachers. In addition to their impressive technique, the kids are reminded to present "sourires," "jolies mains," and "charme."
Amazing how professional and polished even the youngest students are. Every turn of the shoulder, tilt of the head, and curve of the wrist is in sync.
http://images46.fotki.com/v1414/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B4845-vi.jpg No wonder the company has such a great corps de ballet.

With only a short break between the two shows, I walk over to nearby Grand Cafe des Capucines, on my list of AN interiors to see. The stained glass over the stairwell is gorgeous. http://images46.fotki.com/v1416/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B4893-vi.jpg From their Opera Express menu, I order some kind of leek terrine (don't remember exactly what it's called) as entree and "parmentier de canard" for the plat (not familiar with this dish, but I love duck). The entree arrives immediately and is absolutely delicious-- a very smooth flan-like texture with chunks of tasty leeks and some pretty drizzle. If mom or sis were here, we would photograph it, but as a solo diner I feel self-conscious taking photos of my food. My premature verdict: "what a perfect place for opera goers-- close, beautiful, fast, AND delicious." But then a waiter (not the one who took my order) brings over a main dish, announcing "Cheeeken." Seeing the confused look on my face, he knows it's a mistake and goes away. I wait a long time and my duck still hasn't arrived. The same waiter comes by AGAIN and sets down a plate of chicken. This time, the waiter who took my order is standing nearby, and we both look toward him in confusion. He insists, "Yes, yes, c'est la volaille." The next ballet is starting soon and I don't have time to argue, so I eat the dry, dull chicken (not at all like the juicy rotisserie ones sold at outdoor markets). A French family arrives at the next table and the father seems excited to find "parmentier de canard" on the menu. I want to ask him whether it's supposed to be real canard or just chicken with duck sauce (like Leon de Bruxelle's "escargot style" dish which doesn't contain snails?) but it's getting too close to curtain time so I rush back to the opera house.

The afternoon show is more like a regular ballet performance, by the advanced, upper-division students. Not as informative as the morning show but still very enjoyable.

My one must-do on every trip is a boat ride on the Seine. I'll never get tired of leaning over the waves, feeling the cold breeze on my face, and watching all that glorious architecture passing by. This time I use the Vedettes du Pont Neuf because the Bateaux Mouches' too-loud Spanish/Chinese commentary kind of ruins the Parisian atmosphere. I have too many Eiffel photos from previous trips, but this time it's different, with the blue lights and EU stars. http://images46.fotki.com/v1413/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B4969-vi.jpg

I'm such a ditz, arriving at the Centre Pompidou tonight thinking it's free first Sunday. But it's still November! NEXT Sunday will be the first Sunday of the month, when many museums are free. Not worth it to shell out 12 euros so close to closing time when I've already spent many, many hours in that museum before, so I go to its wonderful book store instead. I stumble across one last (slightly beat-up) copy of a book I've been eyeing on Amazon.fr , Paris Meconnu, and talk the clerk into give me a 10% reduction without resorting to English.

Back at the apartment, I check email, look at museum websites, and Google "parmentier de canard." It IS indeed suppose to be real duck, layered with potatoes. French version of shepherd's pie? Online photos of the dish look SO much better that that boring "cheeeken" they dumped on me. I'll be more assertive from now on.

Yes, parmentier de canard is a version of shepherd's pie (the 'normal' beef version is hachis parmentier). The whole point of the dish is the mashed potatoes, hence the 'parmentier' in the name.

Antoine Parmentier is the person who developed potato culture in France. He served potatoes to Benjamin Franklin and even put a potato flower in Marie Antoinette's wig.

Your pictures from Nancy were wonderful! We were there for four days several years ago, and we spent all our time looking at AN buildings from a brochure provided by the tourist office. We saw every one of the places in your pictures, and are now longing to go back again. Many thanks for reviving great memories.

Day 5-- dance class, communal table, and POB

In the morning, my landlord comes by to pick up the balance of my rent. A very nice expat with the best screen-name on Slowtravel: Happy in Paris.

It's Monday, my first day using the Navigo Decouverte. LOVE it! Like Travelnut, I've always liked the Carte Orange, but this is even better. Although I bought this a year ago, I've never used it because that time we arrived during the tail end of a train strike, and we were staying in such a central location, next to the Centre Pompidou, that we walked to most places. It's so convenient not having to fumble in my messy bag and take out the card-- simply touch the handbag to the sensor at the turnstile, and walk right through! I wish NYC's Metrocards were like this.

My apartment is closest to the Parmentier metro but today, for the #11 train to dance class, I have to walk a little farther up av Parmentier to the Goncourt station. This train goes through the interesting Arts et Metiers station: http://images47.fotki.com/v1397/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5571sm-vi.jpg (It only has this decor on the #11 line, not on the #3). Exiting the Rambuteau metro station, I reach the familiar block where, last year, we sampled croissants aux amandes at every one of the numerous bakeries.

Around the corner on rue du Temple, above the Cafe de la Gare, is my favorite dance studio, the Centre de Danse du Marais. The building, from the early 1600s, has a marble staircase, intricately painted wood-beamed ceilings, and traditional bare wood floors (not the icky Marley surface used in modern NY studios). There's even a rosin box in the corner, as seen in old films. My usual teacher, M. Casati, is away en vacances, and M. Lazzarelli, who teaches the evening classes, is substituting for him this week. Like my NY teacher, he's well-travelled and multilingual and likes to throw in a few foreign phrases when there are new foreign students around. "Japonaise?" He asks me. "Non... uh... chinoise" (I'm never sure if people are asking about ancestry, nationality, or what). "Oh..." Not one of the languages in his repertoire, so he corrects me in French from then on.
http://images45.fotki.com/v1394/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6123-vi.jpg
http://images45.fotki.com/v1422/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6122-vi.jpg
http://images42.fotki.com/v1375/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5066-vi.jpg

After class, I pick up a bag of chouquettes and stroll around the Hotel de Ville area. Many school children on field trips. The skating rink is being set up but won't be open until late December. Nearby, there's the recently unveiled Tour St-Jacques which had been under scaffolding for years.

From Chatelet, I take the metro over to Madeleine. I've wanted to see Porcher's 1905 Art Nouveau toilettes ever since Kristina wrote about them on her blog (http://www.wired2theworld.com/paris2005day3and4.html), but they were never open when I was in the area. Today, I finally find them open. Each stall has its own sink with a curvy brass faucet and a stained glass panel above the glossy wooden door. http://images44.fotki.com/v1419/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5114-vi.jpg
http://images42.fotki.com/v1363/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5110-vi.jpg
The surly attendant points out the "No photography" signs on all the doors and sends me toward the exit. There are no such signs in Kristina's photo, so this must be a recent rule.

Restaurant Chartier is not full, yet the waiter brings me to a table which is already partly occupied. At first I'm annoyed, uncomfortable that the other two ladies are forced to move their coats and bags to clear out a space for me when there are plenty of empty tables around, but we end up having a great time. I order the salade d'endives au roquefort (the waiter's recommendation, and delicious-- my new favorite cheese), andouillette, and creme de marron for dessert. On the table, there's a sheet of paper scribbled with some English phrases and French definitions. One of my tablemates, D., is trying to learn more English, and the other, R., is helping her. We converse in a mix of French and English, and whenever D. or I don't understand a word, R. writes it down for us. Later, a young friend of R. arrives and entertains us with his eccentric ideas about hand-writing analysis, religion, and the role of the internet. D. gets my number and email and wants her son (qui est deux metres) to show me around Paris, but of course I don't expect to hear from him-- who's going to call up a stranger his mother met at lunch? http://images46.fotki.com/v1393/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5137-vi.jpg

Not far from the restaurant, on Rue Grange Batelière, is Lesage, the most famous embroidery atelier in the world. On the ground floor, they have a school, Ecole Lesage, with classes ranging from single 3-hr sessions for tourists to semester-long professional courses. The shortest lessons are far too simple, while the really interesting projects require hundreds of hours and thousands of euros, so I settle for just a book, Ecole Lesage chez Vous. http://www.lesage-paris.com/

Nearby are two of the covered passages, Passage Jouffroy and Passage Verdeau.
http://images47.fotki.com/v1401/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5144-vi.jpg
http://images44.fotki.com/v1418/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5154-vi.jpg

As YK knows from another thread, I've been looking for a new carry-on bag. I like the size and shape of my decade-old 18" Ricardo rollaboard, but it's quite heavy, and I'd like one of the new ultra-light ones. Maybe there's not enough demand for smaller, light-weight luggage in the US-- there are many nice-looking, well-designed pieces (such as Travelpro's Crew 7) at Macy's, but they're all on the big and heavy side. The lighter, 50cm ones I like online (such as Delsey's Expandream Plus) aren't available in the US. Passing by Galeries Lafayette, I check out their selection. They have the Delsey I wanted, for not much more than the internet price. The color doesn't look quite as good as in the online photos, but it's a better size and weight than the Travelpro. There's only one left, and I'm not going to bring it to the opera house, so I put it on hold for tomorrow.
Christmas decor at Galeries Lafayette: http://images45.fotki.com/v1424/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5167-vi.jpg
http://images45.fotki.com/v1424/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5168-vi.jpg

Outside, a vendor is selling warm, tasty marrons chauds for just 1 euro a packet.

Back across the street to Palais Garnier again, for the Paris Opera Ballet's Raymonda. Last year, on the night of our arrival in Paris, a young dancer named Dorothee Gilbert was promoted to Etoile after an unusual performance of the Nutcracker which, due to strikes, was done in practice clothes without costumes or sets. How I wish we had seen that! (The strike continued, and the performance we were to see later in the week was cancelled). Tonight, I finally see Mlle Gilbert, in the supporting role of Henriette, and she's a delightful sprite. The leads, Jose Martinez and Marie-Agnes Gillot, are wonderful as well.
http://images46.fotki.com/v1416/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5183-vi.jpg
http://images47.fotki.com/v1404/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5242cr-vi.jpg http://images47.fotki.com/v1399/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5244sm-vi.jpg
Scattered throughout the opera house is an exhibit « Maria Callas et Swarovski – Bijoux de scène » commemorating the 50th anniversary of the diva's Paris debut. http://images47.fotki.com/v1403/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5215-vi.jpg
http://images44.fotki.com/v1418/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5206-vi.jpg
During intermission, I chat with the Japanese girl in the next seat who turns out to be even more of a balletomane. She gives me a list of several other dance studios and shoe stores in Paris. At the end of the evening, a woman is photographing the grand staircase with a DSLR, and we exchange cameras to take photos for each other. She happens to be a fellow New Yorker who frequently goes to ABT. Small world.

Reports like this one are one of the only reasons I come back to Fodors. Thank you so much for sharing with us. You know how to travel and enjoy interesting more unusual sites. Your photos are so lovely, I love the curtain at the opera.

Very enjoyable report! Thank you so much.

PS: I would kill for that black coat you're wearing.

Well how cool it that? I love it that you went to the Porcher toilettes in Place de Madeleine based on my website!
I took my mom there when we were there in October and yes, I noticed the new "no photographs" sign as well.

Love the photo of you too-you're adorable!
I'm always so impressed by (and a little jealous of) people who are comfortable traveling solo. That's just way out of my comfort zone, even given how much I like to travel. You go girl!

Kristina,

Try a half-solo trip, where someone joins you for half a week but you have couple extra days before or after to yourself. That's what I did the first time.

Still enjoying this report very much. Thanks for sharing, I know how much time it takes.

I agree about the half solo trip. That's what I did with a friend last March, and I enjoyed my three days alone at the end of the trip so much that I rented an apartment for two weeks by myself in November.

wonderful report,
lovely photos(and coat
thank you.

Wonderful report of my favorite city.
I loved looking at your photos as I read the text. It was far more interesting than seeing them all at the end.
Paris calls us back time and time again. I could almost taste the pastry in your photos.

MlleFifi-

Reading your TR and looking at your photos, reminds me of those lovely articles at Travel + Leisure. You should work for them!

May I ask what camera you used on this trip? I'm very impressed with the clarity of the photos in (seemingly) low light conditions.

BTW, MlleFifi, I'll be in NYC in mid-March to catch a couple of operas at the Met. If you're interested in meeting up, you can drop me an email. I posted my email address towards the end of my London/Oxford trip report. If you can't find it, let me know.

So nice to be back online for more than 10 minutes and enjoy a report like this! I really like the way you inserted the pix along the way, makes you feel like you are there. I too have to put Nancy on the short list, LOVE the architecture!

I agree with all those praising the report. And I love your photos, especially the way you are including them in the body of your essay. Now that's an organized Fodorite!

Thanks for a fun read.

I've really enjoyed your report and pictures M.Fifi. Thanks so much for the tip on Ecole Lesage. I'd love to look into that!

MlleFifi,
I also want to add kudos for a fabulous report! You've really done a stellar job of bringing us along with your truly offbeat trip. I can't tell you how much I love your report of Nancy - I, too, love art nouveau, and was thrilled with the photos. Add Nancy to the list of towns to visit!

Loved your "tour" of the dance studio as well - really made me feel like I was there with you (I wish!).

Paule

Day 6-- Marais, Printemps, Festival d'Automne

Ballet class. M. Lazzarelli tells me again and again to "tends le genou!" even when I think my knees are straight. One window faces the back of Centre Pompidou, and I envy the classmates who can be here regularly. One of them lives near St Michel-- 3 mornings a week, she walks past Notre Dame and Hotel de Ville to come to class. Sigh...

Today I'm going to the Marais, but first a quick stop at Forum des Halles (http://images47.fotki.com/v1400/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5282-vi.jpg) to pick up a ticket from Fnac. Seeing a Parashop (Walgreen-type store), I replenish my stash of bootleg sunscreen-- Avène eau thermale emulsion in the orange tubes. Forget complicated skincare routines; a good sunscreen is the only fountain of youth.

L'As du Fallafel (http://images48.fotki.com/v1407/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5298e-vi.jpg) does live up to the hype. The fried chickpea balls are light and crispy, not greasy at all. http://images46.fotki.com/v1414/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5305e-vi.jpg One falls out while I'm fumbling for a napkin, and a group of birds immediately swoop down and gobble it up-- they must be old hands at this, perched nearby looking out for clumsy eaters-- wonder how many balls they score in a day? At least these get some exercise; pigeons around Notre Dame look as obese as genetically-altered mice: http://images42.fotki.com/v1378/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6662-vi.jpg.

Next stop, some dessert from the pretty boulangerie-pâtisserie Florence Finkelsztajn (http://images47.fotki.com/v1402/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5308-vi.jpg), and then to... what, when did Goldenberg go out of business?! The name is still up, but the space is empty. Guess I haven't be back to this area in a long time. http://images47.fotki.com/v1401/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5309-vi.jpg There are posters up for some klezmer concerts-- I love klezmer music-- too bad they're for much later in December. Funny that the concerts are to take place not here in the Marais but "au Centre de Culture Chinoise."

The first time I saw the Guimard synagogue on rue Pavee many years ago, I had no idea what it was-- just loved the undulating curve of the facade. http://images43.fotki.com/v1388/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5343-vi.jpg After reading more about it, I wanted to see the inside, but in 2002 a "NO TOURISTS" sign was taped on the door. I got lucky in 2005-- that time, there was no sign, and the door was ajar. Asking to use the toilettes, I was allowed upstairs and got a good view of the interior from a high balcony. This year, there's again a sign posted on the door-- not as harsh as the previous one-- something more diplomatic like "Due to security concerns, we regret that visits are not possible." In the few minutes that I spend admiring the facade this afternoon, many visitors approach door, see the sign, and sigh in disappointment. I feel fortunate to have peeked in at the right time.

When I arrive at Musee Carnavalet, there's a large group of high school students. I move quickly to the next room to avoid the crowd, but their teacher is giving such a good lecture that I soon tag along to eavesdrop. He explains that the pearly shimmer of the Wendel ballroom is achieved by a layer of white-gold leaf under the paint. http://images43.fotki.com/v1384/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5361-vi.jpg Among the period rooms, I revisit a few old favorites such as Proust's bedroom http://images48.fotki.com/v1407/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5458e-vi.jpg and the Fouquet jewelry store. http://images47.fotki.com/v1398/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5390-vi.jpg
http://images45.fotki.com/v1424/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5370-vi.jpg
http://images48.fotki.com/v1405/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5388-vi.jpg

A few other miscellaneous photos from Marais:
Rue des Rosiers http://images47.fotki.com/v1404/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5296-vi.jpg
a shop window http://images45.fotki.com/v1429/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5297-vi.jpg
a pedestrian http://images47.fotki.com/v1397/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5351-vi.jpg

The free map from a hotel has a discount coupon for Printemps (haven't been able to find one for Galeries Lafayettes this time), so before going back to G.L. to buy the suitcase, I stop by Printemps to see if they have the same Delsey model. They do, but I find a different one, by Lipault, that's much lighter-- only 2.2 kilos! And it looks good too. http://www.rayondor-bagages.fr/LIPAULT-Valise-2-roues-55cm-p-JPF%20020.html (the brown one). Since it's collapsible and comes with a carrying case, I won't even have to drop it off at the apartment before going to the theater tonight.

Printemps' trompe l'oeil facade during renovations, with sparkling lights resembling fireworks: http://images43.fotki.com/v1389/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5519e-vi.jpg

The Festival d'Automne usually coincides with my trips, and this year I finally try a play-- Marivaux's "La Seconde Surprise de l'Amour" at Theatre des Bouffes du Nord. Although I speak very little French, I can read a lot (learned with French translations of the Harry Potter series and have moved on to regular books now). Having downloaded and read the script (http://fr.wikisource.org/wiki/La_Seconde_Surprise_de_l%E2%80%99amour), I'm able to follow about 90% of the dialogue tonight. The old theater itself (built in 1876, once called Theatre Moliere, currently home to Peter Brook's company) is worth seeing too: http://images47.fotki.com/v1404/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5553e-vi.jpg
http://images43.fotki.com/v1383/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5555cr-vi.jpg

Just realised that my title is a little misleading. I was there 11 days total-- the "week" plus arrival/departure days plus the 2 days in Nancy. A ballet classmate asked "why do you always come for such a short time?" Short? She didn't know that this is one of the longest vacations I've been able to take in ages!

YK,

My camera is an old Fuji F11. All of Fuji's F-series does well in low light. There's very little noise at 400 or even 800 ISO. 1600 gets fuzzier but is still much better than most other small point-and-shoot cameras.

I'll check Met Opera ticket availability this weekend (been procrastinating for too long) and email you.

Your report could be a book in itself, love it and your appreciation of architecture and design.

I agree - thank you again for continuing this very enjoyable trip report.

Thank you so much for sharing your photos and experiences! I've been transported to a most beautiful part of the world. I'm definitely adding Nancy and Metz to my next trip to France, whenever that is.

My friends will be pleased to know that I am not the only person to take photos of beautiful or interesting bathroom features.

Your attention to detail is most impressive.
Thanks once again.

bookmarking

Congrats on finding such a lightweight suitcase, and getting a discount too!

BTW, DH & I visited Musee Carnavalet on our last trip, and I swear we didn't see anything that you mentioned, LOL! Guess we'll have to go back for a revisit.

Your photos of Theatre des Bouffes du Nord seemed to show that it's in dire need of a facelift? Was it water damage in the ceiling and walls?

P.S. those pigeons are obsene!

P.P.S. I have tix for Rusalka (Renee Fleming) on March 12, and La Sonnambula (Florez) on March 14. Looks like Rusalka is close to sold out at this point, while there are still tix for La Sonnambula.

I had the same thought as yk about the Carnavalet! My Mom and I went in October and we really didn't "get it", but we didn't see anything like you did! Where were those rooms???

Oh yeah, isn't L'As Du Falafel AMAZING? I swear, I never really like falafel before I had it there.

Kristina,

Yes, the falaffel was amazing but smaller than I expected-- how could you and your mom have shared ONE? I was tempted to get a second one for myself!

Musee Carnavalet-- I think the period rooms are on the 2nd (French 1st) floor. The Proust bedroom is in a narrow hallway (it's dimly lit, so you may have passed right by without noticing), and the Fouquet Jewelry store is in a corner, just past the toilets on that floor.

Your photos of Theatre des Bouffes du Nord seemed to show that it's in dire need of a facelift? Was it water damage in the ceiling and walls?

The Bouffes du Nord looks that way on purpose. When Peter Brook took it over more than 30 years ago, it was an abandoned theatre. He renovated the basics but kept the abandoned look of the place. If you have ever seen the film "Diva," the Bouffes du Nord is where the opera performance is held at the beginning of the movie.

I'm loving your report, MmeFifi. I'm another L'As Du Falafel fan. We just discovered the place this August and your picture made me salivate.

slightly off-topic, MlleFifi, have you seen the "Chagall and the Artists of the Russian Jewish Theater" exhibition at the Jewish Museum in NYC? I think I'll go check it out in March before it closes.
http://www.thejewishmuseum.org/exhibitions/JewishTheaterUSSR

Funny, yk, and I want to suggest a show at the Museum of the City of New York entitled: "Paris/New York: Design Fashion Culture 1925-1940", showing the interconnections between the 2 cultures.

http://www.mcny.org/

It's a small exhibit, but it has some lovely work on display. Combining this with the Jewish Museum makes the trip a full one!

Paule

Thanks for the feedback!

Progol,
Thank you so much for posting that. I hadn't heard about the MCNY exhibit before and will definitely go and see it soon.

yk,
I was going to suggest the Chagall exhibit to you too! Did you know it's free on Saturdays?

Kristina, re Musee Carnavalet
I finally dug out the brochure and looked at the floor plan. Looks like I missed more than you did! Going up the stairs, I somehow ended up on the Hotel Le Peletier de St-Fargeau side of the museum (missing the larger, main building, Hotel Carnavalet) and saw only the 20th century section. I'll have to go back again to check out the 17th century / Mme Sevigne section next time.

Day 7-- costumes, paintings, and pests

Ballet class. Today there's pointe (optional) too, but I haven't done that in such a long time, and my old shoes are so worn-out, that I attempt only a few short barre exercises en pointe before switching to back to soft shoes.

La Fermette Marbeuf: I have no reservation but arrive early enough to get a table in the lovely Winter Garden section. This room, actually smaller and more intimate than it appears in photos, soon fills up. Sunflowers, dragonflies, nymphs, gourds, and white peacocks adorn the tiled and enameled walls, and the ornate glass coupole is painted with Asian-looking branches. From the prix-fixe lunch menu, I get feuillete with leeks, steak tartare, and the dessert du jour, chestnut feuillete. I've wanted to taste steak tartare for a long time but have always been too afraid to risk food-poisoning while on vacation. (As it turns out, I do become miserably ill the next day, but not from the meat). My obsessive quest to see original vintage interiors comes with some chance of mediocre meals and rude service, but in this case food and staff are both excellent.
http://images47.fotki.com/v1402/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5612e-vi.jpg
http://images46.fotki.com/v1432/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5608e-vi.jpg
http://images47.fotki.com/v1404/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5616-vi.jpg
http://images43.fotki.com/v1384/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5642e-vi.jpg

On avenue Marceau, a church tower catches my eye. It is the Église Saint-Pierre-de-Chaillot, a neo-Byzantine building from the 1930s. Inside, its arches and windows produce an interesting play of shadow and light, reminiscent of De Chirico. Some beginner is practicing scales on the organ.
http://images42.fotki.com/v1378/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5681e-vi.jpg
http://images43.fotki.com/v1383/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5695e-vi.jpg
http://images46.fotki.com/v1432/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5722e-vi.jpg
http://images47.fotki.com/v1403/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5724e-vi.jpg

Musée Galliera's current exhibition, "Sous l'Empire des Crinolines," is about fashion of the Second Empire. Not only gowns but also accessories such as a muff made of peacock feathers and "dance cards" as intricate as jewelry.
Museum: http://images45.fotki.com/v1429/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5737-vi.jpg
Peacock muff: http://images45.fotki.com/v1428/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5743e-vi.jpg
Dance cards: http://images42.fotki.com/v1374/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5742e-vi.jpg
It's not too crowded, but for some reason one tourist who's coughing and sneezing with a severe flu seems only interested in whichever vitrine I happen to be looking at!

Across the street, the Musée d'Art moderne de la Ville de Paris is showing "Raoul Dufy: Le Plaisir." As you can tell from the title, these paintings are bright and joyous. I love his huge murals with birds, and also his woodcut illustrations for Apollinaire's poems. Photos are only allowed of one painting-- the enormous "La Fée Electricité" mural which is part of the museum's permanent collection. http://images48.fotki.com/v1410/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5775-vi.jpg For a glimpse of his other works, watch the video here: http://www.paris.fr/portail/Culture/Portal.lut?page_id=6450&document_type_id=2&document_id=57656&portlet_id=15515

Around the corner from the museum, the blue Eiffel Tower looks huge, topped with tonight's thin crescent moon. Never been up to Trocadero, and since it's so close, I may as well make a detour and see what the fuss is about.

Up there, the view is good but the atmosphere far from peaceful. Aggressive souvenir vendors are swarming around like flies. With only a small point-and-shoot camera, cold fingers, and no tripod, it's hard enough trying to hold the camera still for a decent night shot without having a flashing plastic tower shoved within inches of my face every few seconds. Ignoring them doesn't make them go away. I growl a harsh "NON" and one of them still has the nerve to persist with "Are you SURE??" His accent is not French, and I'm suddenly overcome by an irrational rage, jealous that this twerp somehow manages to carve out a living in this most beautiful of cities while I, with more relevant skills, will never find the courage to try; and he's unknowingly rubbing salt in that wound by assuming I'd want a tacky plastic tower.

No longer in the mood for any Eiffel photos (bright blue or not), I head toward the metro, and along the way there's yet another infestation of souvenir vendors. Ça suffit! This is getting almost as bad as the most charmless part of Times Square, and I certainly know how to navigate that. Switching gears, I walk with a brisk commuters' gait and stare straight ahead with the stay-out-of-my-way-or-I'll-trample-right-over-you lethal glare that I wear when late for work in my efficient home town. Works anywhere in the world. In my peripheral vision, one of the approaching pests hesitates and backs off, and I reach the metro without further harassment.

Next stop, Champs Elysees Clemenceau for Emil Nolde at the Grand Palais (open to 10pm Wednesdays). Compared to the nuisance at Trocadero, even the Champs Elysees feels pleasant. The tartiflette stand at at the marché de noël will be open until close to midnight; I can go to the museum first.

"Emil Nolde 1867-1956"-- my first exposure to this artist, and what a surprise. Unlike the somber sea scene chosen for the exhibition posters (http://images48.fotki.com/v1406/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5889e-vi.jpg), most of his other paintings are in striking, luminous colors, similar to Soutine's works. I especially like his "Adam and Eve", self portrait, and the Berlin nightlife scenes.

When the museum closes, the street fair is still lively. I pick up some tartiflette and head back to the apartment, dead tired.
http://images48.fotki.com/v1410/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5886e-vi.jpg
http://images48.fotki.com/v1410/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5865e-vi.jpg

Day 8-- sickness, nostalgia, exhaustion.

Waking up this morning, my throat feels like sandpaper, my nose is congested, and I'm weak and achy all over. When a bad flu was going around NYC about a month ago, I was actually relieved to catch it, thinking I'd be done and safe the rest of the season. But of course it's a different strain going around here, though the symptoms feel identical. Very tired, I sleep in late and don't get out of the apartment until almost noon. Too dazed to explore anything new, I head for comforting familiar territory-- Ecole Militaire stop in the 7eme, home base of our first few trips.

For those of you who can't understand why Rick Steves recommended rue Cler: it really WAS an adorable, lively market street once upon a time. When Mom and I first stayed at Hotel Leveque in 2000, there was a butcher shop, a fish shop, Tarte Julie serving tasty sweet and savory pies (in the former "Boucherie Chevaline" that's now a Greek restaurant), a boulangerie making the best almond croissants (now a boring Petit Bateau T-shirt store), the best crepe stand (no, not the one currently in front of the Greek restaurant; THE famous old crepe guy http://images42.fotki.com/v1434/photos/8/852267/7085483/RueCler_crepeguy-vi.jpg was in a small booth near the corner of rue du Champs de Mars-- he died a few years ago), and #40 (now plain) was an art nouveau building with a fun whimsical shape on the corner (torn off when Lenotre took over around 2002?) and housed J Ragut, a traiteur selling mouth-watering terrines. http://images45.fotki.com/v1425/photos/8/852267/7085483/JRagut-vi.jpg

I wish I hadn't already eaten a sandwich and could stop at Cafe du Marche for my favorite duck confit with garlic potatoes, but too late. On to revisit a few dream houses: 33 rue du Champs de Mars, 3 sq Rapp, and the luscious 29 av Rapp, then a stroll along the Seine to Pont Alexandre III. http://images44.fotki.com/v1418/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6076-vi.jpg

33 r du Champ de Mars: http://images46.fotki.com/v1393/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5937-vi.jpg
http://images47.fotki.com/v1402/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5947-vi.jpg
3 sq Rapp: http://images42.fotki.com/v1378/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5961-vi.jpg
29 av Rapp: http://images42.fotki.com/v1379/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6018-vi.jpg
http://images43.fotki.com/v1388/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6000-vi.jpg
http://images46.fotki.com/v1395/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B5997-vi.jpg

3pm-- my time slot for the sold-out blockbuster "Picasso et les maîtres" at Grand Palais. Outside, the posted estimated wait time for those without advance tickets is 3 hours. Inside, it's as packed as the subway at rush hour and almost impossible to see anything. Plus the stuffy air is making me even sicker, and if I stand any longer I'll pass out. There are benches in the middle of most of the rooms, so I slump down wherever a space opens up and just look at the few paintings visible from across the crowd. Dozing off. When a good-natured old man waves his hand in front of my eyes to see if I was conscious, I finally get up and take a quick look through the rest of the galleries. What a waste-- other people are freezing out there for 3 hours or paying scalpers over 6 times face value to see this, while I with a coveted ticket is walking like a zombie past all these masterpieces, unable to absorb anything.

After resting at the cafe with a big bottle of water and a fromage frais with creme de marron, I feel a little better and go over to Musee d'Orsay (open late Thursday nights). The related Picasso show there, "Picasso/ Manet: Le déjeuner sur l'herbe", is smaller, more cohesive, and more enjoyable (though I can't judge the other one fairly in this state). Another special exhibit, "Le mystère et l'éclat", shows pastels by Degas, Manet, Redon, etc.
http://images43.fotki.com/v1382/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6104-vi.jpg
http://images46.fotki.com/v1433/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6292e-vi.jpg

On the still crowded Metro, one girl tells another, "Je suis vraiment, v-r-a-i-m-e-n-t, epuisee." Me too. Completely exhausted. A more sensible person would have scalped the Grand Palais ticket and stayed in bed today, but I've never been sensible when using precious vacation time.

Next time you are in Paris, you might want to check out a restaurant called Bouillon Racine. The food is ok, but I think the Art Nouveau decor might interest you more.
http://www.bouillon-racine.com/
also on my website, bottom of this page:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/PARIS2008Day2.html

I'm amazed by how much you accomplished even when you were feeling so sick! I hope you felt better by the next day.

May I ask how much was lunch at La Fermette Marbeuf?

Fermette Marbeuf's lunch menu was 24.5 euros for entree+plat+dessert. I should have had the two-course (18 euros?) menu instead-- was already full before the dessert arrived (snacked on too many crepes and chouquettes).

ttt

Waiting patiently for the rest...

Sorry I'm so slow. Can't believe some of you have already finished trip reports from 2009!

I'm waiting for my photo-hosting site to finish their maintenance and upgrades this week so I'll have the correct photo links. (That's why some of the above links are broken right now-- I hope it's temporary).

I want to thank you again for this report. First, you helped me discover Nancy.

Second, after all my trips to Paris, walking on the same streets you have walked, I realize how often I didn't stop to look around me and "see" what you see.

It's a lesson I hope I'm not too old to learn.

Thanks again and whenever you finish up your report, I'll be waiting for it.

Kerouac was right - This report was going to be excellent. And it is even more than that!
You do not have a hidden talent - it's out here for all of us to enjoy!
Thank you MademoiselleFifi.

I am waiting too--for Day 9.

Aquarius211,

Are you Mom?! Welcome to Fodor's.

Hey y'all, as I guessed, the new poster above is my mom, who has lurked for months and finally signed up! Some of you "met" her in my London report. Please join me in urging her to write about her recent encounter with acqua alta and cats in Venice.

Day 9-- Van Dyck, Colette, Mantegna

Last ballet class. From the courtyard, I'm thrilled to see that M. Casati, the teacher I had on previous trips, is back from vacation! Unfortunately, though feeling much better than yesterday, I'm still too weak to dance well, so I hide in the back row and hope that he doesn't notice my mistakes.

I met L, one of my ballet classmates, 4 years ago when she was amused by my T-shirt about "un idiot" (so thankful not to need a vice-présidente version this time!), and today after class we meet her husband M at Musee Jacquemart-Andre to see the special exhibit of Van Dyck portraits. The house is magnificent, especially the winter garden with its grand staircase and Tiepolo mural.
http://www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com/fr/jacquemart/607-galerie_photos/
The museum's cafe looks nice and smells great, but it's packed, with a long line waiting outside, so we stroll down avenue Percier and have lunch at at the eponymous brasserie. Good duck salad. L advises me to always insist on a "carafe d'eau" instead of being pressured to buy bottled water. She says Paris has excellent tap water-- that it's their most expensive utility, more than gas or electricity, so take advantage of it (but take quick showers).

After lunch, L and M go home, and I go for a second try at finding no. 213 rue St-Honore. Colette no longer has the cute, inexpensive Pets@Work items I saw last year. Upstairs, I fall in love with the Odile Gilbert hair pin. A very simple little brass-toned thing, but as gracefully and ergonomically curved as a museum piece, and it holds up a twist or chignon with just the one single pin. What a lovely name too, conjuring two different swans. No price tag. I don't expect anything upstairs at Colette to be cheap, but the salesgirl's answer is about double my guess! I thank her and put it back, but downstairs before reaching the front door, all kinds of excuses and justification, some valid some lame, pop into my head: "haven't shopped much on this trip; people easily spend more than this on a haircut or dinner; my apartment for the whole week is less than what cousin Z pays for one night at the Hyatt; the exchange rate is decent this week...." Back upstairs to treat myself to the little splurge. (Googling it later, I find that when this pin first appeared, it sold out immediately, and there had been long waiting lists in both Paris and NY, and it costs much more at Barney's). http://falbalas30.canalblog.com/archives/2008/11/23/11485110.html

Glittering Christmas lights and window displays around Place Vendome:
http://images43.fotki.com/v1438/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6216cr-vi.jpg
http://images45.fotki.com/v1430/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6209-vi.jpg

Wednesday and Friday evenings, when the Louvre stays open late, there's a program called "Les jeunes ont la parole" for art students to share their knowledge with visitors. Tonight, one graduate student is giving fascinating lectures on Mantegna's "Le Parnasse" (http://mini-site.louvre.fr/mantegna/images/section8/zoom/08_03.jpg), and another is explaining Bellini's "Le Crist Benissant" (http://mini-site.louvre.fr/mantegna/images/section2/zoom/02_10.jpg).

The Louvre is always overwhelming; even after repeated visits, I've barely scratched the surface. After seeing the Mantegna and Picasso/Delacroix exhibits, I have hardly any time left for the permanent collection before they start herding everyone toward the exits. It's both funny and sad to see the mob pushing and shoving for a snapshot of just one painting in this museum while treating nearby Titians and Veroneses as wallpaper. I must admit though, that at least one of the hyped "Top 3" is not at all overrated-- no matter how many times you pass by the Winged Victory, there's always another angle to see. http://images47.fotki.com/v1397/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6250e-vi.jpg One of these days, I must float down those stairs like Audrey.

Day 10-- skulls and marionnettes

I arrive at the Catacombes too late for the 11am guided tour. There's a long line of mostly French people waiting to get in (duh, why didn't I think to come on a weekday morning?) I almost give up and leave, but it's such a beautiful day out, and everyone else in line seems so happily unhurried, that I too decide to slow down, breath, and people-watch here instead of rushing off to yet another museum or monument. http://images42.fotki.com/v1377/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6336-vi.jpg I take a few random photos of the long line and, scrolling back through them on my camera, notice that a child has been posing for me. Very amusing how many Europeans, young and old, enjoy posing for strangers' photos when they just happen to be in the background! (For example, look at this passerby on rue Mouffetard last year: http://images32.fotki.com/v1062/photos/8/852267/5656205/F11B1468-vi.jpg) Another kid, a smartly dressed boy, proudly adjusts and readjusts a skull-print scarf which he must have chosen specially for this occasion. Much has been written about French women's knack for tying scarves, but I'm surprised to see boys practicing at such a young age!

They let in only a few people at a time, and those in front of me must be walking much faster than those behind me-- during most of the descend to the second level, I see nobody else in the long tunnels, and it's quite eerie to walk through there alone. Once past the sculptures of Decure and the quarrymen's footbath, however, the crowd begins to thicken, and the ossuary is packed. The bones are so dimly lit that it's hard to see much-- the dramatic photos in guidebooks must have been achieved with special spotlights and/or Photoshop-- the actual skulls are not shiny, marble-like as they appear in the books; they're dark gray, matte, and ashy. About halfway through, I catch up to the guided tour and tag along to listen. The little snippets I manage to make out are fascinating, but this enthusiastic docent talks very, very fast so I only understand maybe 40% if what he's saying. http://images42.fotki.com/v1373/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6381-vi.jpg

After strolling around the Alesia area for a while (http://images42.fotki.com/v1434/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6386-vi.jpg), I ride the metro to the Latin Quarter. Around Sorbonne, it's sad to see many empty storefronts of cafes and shops which appear to have recently gone out of business. Enticed by a chocolate Christmas tree in a window, I buy an onion tart and an orange cake from Patisserie Bon.
http://images46.fotki.com/v1415/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6395e-vi.jpg
http://images42.fotki.com/v1380/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6399-vi.jpg
http://images44.fotki.com/v1418/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6413-vi.jpg

At Bibliotheque Ste-Genvieve, I sign up for a library card (with the little photo that was prepared for but not needed at Bibliotheque des Arts Decoratifs), but the separate line to enter the famous reading room is long and slow-moving. http://images43.fotki.com/v1381/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6419-vi.jpg Again, as at the Catacombes, most of the people seem so laid-back and unhurried-- must be because they're the lucky ones with a whole lifetime to spend in this city. I, without that luxury, give up on the library and board the #84 bus for a scenic ride to Place de la Concorde for the Musee de l'Orangerie.
http://images44.fotki.com/v1419/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6436-vi.jpg

This may be sacrilege to admit, but I'm not blown away by the Monet waterlilies. Pretty? Sure. But moved to tears? No. Maybe it's from having to wait too many years to finally see this museum (which closed for renovations just before my first trip). I much prefer his city paintings such as those of the Houses of Parliament or of the Grandes Boulevards. The Soutines, Derains, and Utrillos are captivating though.

For dinner, I have duck confit at Bistrot du Peintre on ave Ledru-Rollin, one stop east of the Bastille. This is my favorite kind of AN interior-- lots of sinuous dark wood, not too pastel.
Wall: http://images42.fotki.com/v1373/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6495-vi.jpg
Ceiling: http://images43.fotki.com/v1438/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6485cr-vi.jpg
Bar: http://images43.fotki.com/v1437/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6488e-vi.jpg
Entrance: http://images46.fotki.com/v1446/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6493e-vi.jpg

Theatre Dejazet, near Place de la Republique, has an interesting history as the only survivor among over twenty theatres from the "Age d'or" when blvd du Temple was nicknamed "le Boulevard du Crime". Originally built as a jeu de paume (a sort of indoor tennis court), it was turned into a theatre in the mid 19th century and almost became a supermarket in 1976.
Entrance: http://images43.fotki.com/v1383/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6521-vi.jpg
Staircase: http://images43.fotki.com/v1439/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6510-vi.jpg
Ceiling: http://images45.fotki.com/v1421/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6506-vi.jpg
Tonight I'm here to see Les Marionnettes de Salzburg in «Le Songe d'une nuit d'été» (Midsummer Night's Dream). Since most of the troupe's other productions are based on operas, I assumed this would be performed with just music, but it's actually the play, done in French. During intermission, I overhear some comments from the audience-- they think the puppets look magnifique but the translation sucks. Not a problem for me, whose French is obviously not good enough to tell the difference.
http://www.lefigaro.fr/theatre/2008/12/04/03003-20081204ARTFIG00381-shakespeare-sur-des-fils-de-marionnettes-.php
http://www.dejazet.com/

After the show and some dessert from the bakery next door, I return to the apartment and set the alarm clock for very early because, sadly, tomorrow will be the last (half) day.

I've finally had a chance to catch up with your report, Fifi, and it's wonderful. It's always so sad, going to bed on the last night.

Great cast for Raymonda. Dorothee Gilbert looks very tall! And I think that's Nicolas le Riche I see in your photos, I think he was doing Abderdan (or whatever the name is- brown velvet pants man) first cast with Gillot/Martinez (I've been on a Nicolas le Riche binge this past weekend)

I agree with you about the Waterlilies at the Orangerie, very pretty and soothing but they didn't excite me. Like you I also loved the Derains and Utrillos, and most especially the Soutines. I think the Soutines at the l'Orangerie are my favourite paintings ever. I don't know if you remember from my trip report last year, but kerouac is actually acquainted with Chaim Soutine's daughter. Small world.

Thanks for such a wonderful report, though you're leaving me heartsick for Paris.

Hi Apres,
Yes, that's le Riche, and he was marvelous in the role. The audience went wild during his curtain calls. On stage, Gilbert looked petite next to Gillot-- I think she just looked tall in that picture because she was closer to the camera.

I accidentally broke one of the photo links; the Ecole demonstrations photo is here:
http://images35.fotki.com/v1210/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B4845e1-vi.jpg The girl in the center looks like a miniature little Aurelie Dupont. I wish the students' names were shown on the program (only the class levels and teachers are listed).

Oh, after that thread about your screenname, I wanted to try the perfume but forgot to look for it in Paris!

Day 11-- Last moments

Sunday morning I bid au revoir (but not adieu) to the apartment and take the #96 bus to my classmate L.'s place near Notre Dame. Scenic route through many major attractions-- Place des Vosges, Hotel de Ville, Chatelet, Palais de Justice, St Michel ... better than the expensive hop-on/off tourist buses in many cities. This is what I should have done Thursday when too exhausted to walk around! OK, "you told me so," in numerous Fodor threads about the advantages of buses, but from living in San Francisco and New York, I've had a phobia of them-- getting stuck in traffic slower than a crawl, not knowing where and what the next stop is (when it's too crowded to see street signs out the window), pissing off the driver when pulling the cord to early or too late, .... French buses are almost as easy as the metro. An electronic sign lights up to indicate the upcoming stops (only in Nancy and not Paris?), and the recorded announcement is loud and clear, not the incomprehensible mumble of MTA people.

At St. Michel, I get off and walk to L.'s apartment. Busy getting ready for her family's visit, she has kindly offered to keep my luggage while I indulge in just a little more flanerie.

Tourists who must have just arrived are leisurely taking photos and videos in front of Notre Dame. Local residents are out buying Christmas trees. I envy everyone who doesn't have to leave today, even the birds. One pigeon's profile looks just like the the Guimard ironwork on which he's perched.
http://images47.fotki.com/v1399/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6564-vi.jpg
http://images47.fotki.com/v1402/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6595-vi.jpg
http://images47.fotki.com/v1404/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6599-vi.jpg
http://images44.fotki.com/v1409/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6647-vi.jpg

Travelling mostly in cold weather, I've never had Berthillon ice cream. This time, having read so many strong opinions on Fodor's (both for and against), I'm curious to see for myself. (Amorino's available in other countries, so that can wait). Well, I don't know what flavors the detractors tried, but the pistachio is perfect.
http://images39.fotki.com/v1232/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6590c-vi.jpg

After a whole week of photographing weird details like faucets and doorknobs, I should at least get a few more normal, typical "Paris" shots before leaving, and what's more so than the boats and bouquinistes along the Seine, with Notre Dame in the background.
http://images45.fotki.com/v1424/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6607-vi.jpg
http://images44.fotki.com/v1411/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6614-vi.jpg
Sadly, only a few of the bouquinistes are still selling old books and prints; many more are selling tacky souvenirs instead. I must buy something from one of the remaining real booksellers. The paperbacks are only 2,50 euros-- much cheaper than getting them shipped from Amazon.fr. I pick up Zazie dans le Metro and wish I had time to shop for a few more.

1pm-- time's up. Back to L.'s place to meet her grandchildren and pick up my luggage. In front of the Hotel Dieu, I realise with a shudder that with the RER, unlike the Roissybus or shuttle, there will be no final scenic tour. This is it. One last look back http://images45.fotki.com/v1423/photos/8/852267/7008158/F11B6679-vi.jpg , then down the stairs to the train to CDG.

The next morning, I am again on a crowded Metro, but instead of "...Arts et Metier, ...Rambuteau," I hear, in a less musical language, "...Queensboro Plaza, ...42nd St / Times Square." Back to reality.

MlleFifi - thank you again for this fantastic report. I am also not crazy about Monet's waterlilies. Perhaps I would feel different if I get to visit the museum alone without thousands of tourists wandering around and snapping photos.

I hope your mom will post her trip report!

When and where is your next trip?

Truly lovely trip report! Thank you for sharing your unique perspective.

I also hope your mother will share her trip with us. I'll be watching for it . . .

>>>Gilbert looked petite next to Gillot<<<

Hi fifi, that was my mistake, I've never really seen Gillot other than publicity photos and short little clips, and I thought that was Gilbert in your first photo...it's Gillot who's the amazon! (I'm tall so I'm always interested when I see tall dancers)

>>>Back to reality<<<

I know the feeling, it's so sad

Count me in with those who would love to hear from your mom about her trip.

Apres,

Ironically, not so long ago I was coming here annually as a tourist, and ending a NY trip then was just as sad as ending a Paris trip now; I envied the locals and fantasized about being able to drop by the Met Museum any time. How we start taking things for granted when caught up in the routine of work and normal life. My 2009 resolution is to keep my eyes more open every day, not just while on vacation.

Re tall dancers--
Have you seen Muriel Maffre? She was my favorite dancer at SFB. Such stage presence-- as Lilac in Sleeping Beauty, she could command the audience's full attention just standing in a corner.


LCBoniti,
Thanks!


yk,

The main reason I'm having such a bad case of travel-withdrawal right now is that I have no trips planned. Not sure "when", and have never been so indecisive about "where". Was hoping for Vienna (been at the top of my list for decades) in May, but that's not working out-- for a variety of reasons, Vienna has to be postponed again at least until late October, which also means no Thanksgiving in Paris for 2009

Just started a new job recently, so it's hard to schedule vacations. If I can get the time off, I'd like to still go somewhere with mom for one week in spring but will have very little time to plan. Considering Rome or somewhere in France (Bordeaux?), but I keep thinking we should take advantage of the low GBP and pick somewhere in the UK (Glasgow/Edinburgh?)

Zut, guess I won't be able to re-create Chartier's salad at home--

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2009/01/28/AR2009012804071.html
Bush War on Roquefort Raises a Stink in France: Departing Officials Set Duty at 300%

I think Vienna in October will be better than in May, no? I assume the concert halls and opera houses are dark by May?

I would love to go back to Vienna for another visit, even though we were *just* there in 2006. I got sick on the trip, so we lost a whole day of sightseeing time on our already short visit.

I also want to go back to the UK, like you said, because the pound is so cheap now. But I probably want to wait until late April or May when the weather is better. I have lots of FF, so perhaps I can get a free ticket there.

Here are a few Vienna trip reports that I've enjoyed (including my own, of course):

WillTravel (vienna in Nov 08)
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=35168437

amyb (Paris/Vienna April 08)
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=35126798

Mine (London/Vienna Nov 06)
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34905605