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"Meals Game Plan" for Rome, Sorrento, and Florence, per piacere.?

"Meals Game Plan" for Rome, Sorrento, and Florence, per piacere.?

Old Jul 28th, 2015, 07:38 AM
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"Meals Game Plan" for Rome, Sorrento, and Florence, per piacere.?

(As many of you seem to also be on the Italy ChowHound boards, I decided to take your advice and repost here as well for those of you who do not contribute to Chowhound but will certainly have great advice. Thanks in advance.)


The time has come. Headed back to Europe the last two weeks of August after a 12 year hiatus with the 11 year old ChowPup. For those of you who know me and have graciously helped me with myriad North American travel dining requests practically since Chowhound's 1997 inception, this is the kid whose 10th bday dinner started at Queens' Tacqueria Coatzingo and ended with the truffle tasting at SD-26, all the while second guessing whether we should have "just gone to Maialino for the porchetta and cacio e pepe." In short, this child appreciates good food and feels as grateful as I feel blessed to be able to visit Italy and Spain this summer for his first time to Europe. He's been poring over the Yelp photos of Roscoli and Cesare al Casaletto (those gnocchi!) since it was announced we would be in Rome! We are talking hardcore here. What will make this trip extra special is that we will be traveling with my parents to celebrate both of their 70th birthdays. We'll start our trip in Barcelona for three nights, then in a villa in Sorrento for 4 nights (from which we will visit Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, Pompeii), Rome for 4 nights with a possible day trip to Florence just for old time's sake. None of these places are new to any of the adults, just my son, and the trip is more of an overview (no snarky remarks about the ridiculousness of Florence as a "day trip", per favore).

Weeks ago I tried to book Elizabeth Minchilli or Katie Parla for food tours of Rome, to no avail. I was particularly interested in the Trastevere Jewish ghetto tours, but in the end will settle for a self- guided tour and a meal at Piperno. I'm fairly confident, with or without guided tours etc, we will eat well and have really only begun to seriously research prior reports on these boards to come up with a rudimentary list of places we want to hit. We are seeking comfy, homey places with zero pretension. More trattorie style. Not looking for the Italian version of El Bulli or anything that features foam or is deconstructed. Just warm, casual places that feature well loved dishes that will be enjoyed my our multi-generational family.

I am hesitant to make reservations in advance because we never know what our days will entail until we arrive, however if I am advised otherwise, we will definitely heed advice.

I am seeking a few excellent dinners and lunches in Rome. Also snacks (read: gelati). We will be staying in the Piazza Navona, and as we are tourists, seek places near touristy things such as the Colosseum, Vatican, etc.

When we are in Sorrento we will spend one full day exploring the coast by sea on a private charter and welcome any suggestions for where we should dock and enjoy a memorable family meal. I have been looking forward to this day for a very long time and want it to be special. The captain who is taking us out apparently has many suggestions, but I would like to be prepared as well. I recall reading somewhere that one of the little towns on the Amalfi coast is the birthplace of sfogliatelle which is one of our family's favorite treats here in NYC. We get incredible ones from our Sicilian friends at a local bakery, but would LOVE LOVE LOVE to taste ones from where they originated. If anyone has any thoughts on this, please share. I have visions of beginning or ending our little day at sea with a still warm sfogliatelle. Who knows?

We decided NOT to have a car on this trip to Italy as most people told us it would be more of a hindrance during high season. Someone compared the back ups on Amalfi coast in August to the LIE traffic going out to the Hamptons and that was all my husband needed to hear! So we will be taking taxis and ferries etc. We have no problem paying whatever we need to pay to make it as fast and convenient as possible. I haven't done much research on this part of the trip at all. Being that our villa is 5 minutes from Sorrento, I am thinking most of our dinners will be in Sorrento, but lunch ideas in the neighboring towns would be much appreciated.

In Florence, if we even end up going for the day, I am thinking I would want my son to try a classic Bistecca alla Fiorentina and some fagioli all’uccelletto etc. Many friends have recommended Trattoria All’Antico Ristoro di Cambi in the Borgo San Frediano which is a bit out of the way. If I were staying there for a long weekend I would be happy to venture afar, but being that we would only have a full day there I would want something closer to the city center. Any thoughts?

And then Rome. I can't WAIT for the food in Rome. You have no idea. Well, actually you DO I was thinking Armando al Pantheon (seems like a love/hate thing for many of you, but def is iconic), Cesare al Casaletto (might be too much of a schelp), Roscioli, Pizzarium for pizza al taglio which my kid will LOVE, FattaMorgana for gelati? I am overwhelmed for sure. So much I would love to try, and if I were there for a few weeks I would have the time to venture off the beaten path and get a real insider's taste, go to the Italian equivalent of say Corona or Jackson Heights, but we are really just tourists this time and just want to cover the highlights. What to do?

Thanks in advance for tolerating the meandering and indulgent post. Hoping that with your expertise I will be able to come up with a game place that will be delicious and memorable for all of us.

Mille Grazie,
Lisa
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Old Jul 28th, 2015, 08:43 AM
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Our favorite place in Florence is Trattoria Sostanza, and they have Bistecca. We love it so much that we took the train from Rome once just to have lunch there. We also had a great lunch a couple of years ago at Da Rocco in the market in Florence.

Katie Parla just posted on her blog a list of restaurants in Rome that are open in August, so I would check there first for your Rome options. And I would consider making at least some reservations, due to many restaurants being closed in August.

Here is an article in the origins on sfogliatelle: http://www.itchefs-gvci.com/index.ph...280&Itemid=632

I have never stayed in Sorrento (Positano is always my choice), so I can't help with restaurant suggestions there. But my friends who live in Positano love to take a boat and go to lunch at Ristorante Lo Scoglio (in Marina Del Cantone) or Conca del Sogno.

If you have an iPhone, I would definitely download Elizabeth's apps for Florence and Rome and Katie's app for Rome. I took a tour with a nice young man when I was in Rome last year (which included some amazing Suppli) and I know he is now doing food tours, if you are still looking for a tour. I will be taking his tour next time I am in Rome. Let me know if you want his contact info.
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Old Jul 28th, 2015, 08:51 AM
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Thank you so very much for your thoughtful response. I have both of those apps downloaded already I am going to look into Sostanza and also Conca del SOgno which was recommended by the captain of the boat!
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Old Jul 28th, 2015, 09:47 AM
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If you are unwilling to make reservations in August you will not get into most of the places recommended on Chowhound and the trendy apps. Better would be to make the reservations and if for some reason you cannot go, be a good citizen and cancel as soon as you realize you're not going to make it there. In August, the places you mention are not going to have trouble filling your table with another customer.

I don't know anyone who has been to Armando al Pantheon in recent years who doesn't like the food and service very much. Criticisms it gets on Chowhound are from one source who occasionally admits she has not been in more than a decade, and the criticisms are that it is popular on the internet (ipso facto, can't be good, right?). Unless things have chaged, there is no place to sit at Pizzarium, so know that before you go.

On a day when you plan to have a lunch like a bistecca, you should plan to et a lighter dinner. On a day when you are going for destination gelati, try not to make it the same day you are planning on a cheese-heavy lunch or dinner!
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Old Jul 28th, 2015, 12:42 PM
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I always cancel reservations if I can't make them and I don't eat much cheese outside of my home for reasons you might not like to hear about on Fodor's or anywhere for that matter, so no worries about having any "cheese-heavy" lunches or dinners! Any cheese will be consumed within a few minutes walk from the Piazza Navona for sure.

Ekc, please let me know about the young man to whom you refer. Both Elizabeth Minchilli and Katie Parla recommeded alternatives to their tours, and both included a few gentlemen.
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Old Jul 28th, 2015, 01:31 PM
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On a recent visit to Rome we fell in love with Bella Napoli www.ristorantebellanapoli.it/ which would meet your requirements. It was recommended by a fellow Fodorite and on the two occasions we ate there the vast majority of the crowd were locals. It is fairly close to Vatican City but outside the main tourist area and easily accessible from the Ottaviano metro stop or via taxi. If you do go via metro, as you are walking the couple blocks to Bella Napoli look on the left hand side for bakery Dolce Maniera http://www.dolcemaniera.it/ at 27 via Barletta (you walk though the nondescript doorway and downstairs to the overflowing cases of sweet treats) for a bag of goodies to take home for breakfast.

As for gelato - we ate so much (at least once a day) and never had a bad one, but we thought the best we had in Rome was from Old Bridge http://gelateriaoldbridge.com/home/en/ice-cream-shop/ just outside the walls of the Vatican on the side with the museum entrance, and a wonderful place with excellent Sicilian pastries called I Dolci di Nonna Vincenza on Piazza di Montecitorio near Trevi http://www.dolcinonnavincenza.it/sito/contatti.php
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Old Jul 28th, 2015, 02:58 PM
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Two restaurants in Rome that might fit your needs:


For those interested in the menus:
Salumeria Roscioli 122,50€
1 Cannolo alla Siciliana
1 Pane Roscioli
1 Acqua
1 Insalata di Polipo
1 Gamberi e Verdur
1 trancio di spigola
1 Cime de Rapa e Vongole MM
1 Polpette tradizione Romana
2 cesanese ciolli
1 verdicchio gaiospino

Ripa 12 105€
Acqua filette gassata
Chardonnay Jermann
pane
carpaccio di cernia
Calamarata moscardini
Gnocchetti fasioli e [unreadable]
polpette di pesce
Rucola e parmiggiano
Sorbetto al limone
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Old Jul 28th, 2015, 03:12 PM
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Rome: Osteria Barberini
Gelato del Teatro

Sorrento: Re Foods

Spelling not guaranteed
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Old Jul 28th, 2015, 07:23 PM
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From my May 2015 trip report:

Rome:

Osteria la Gensola – went two times, everything we ordered was top notch, friendly service

Roscioli – fun, deli/wine bar atmosphere, huge portions

Reservations required. Roscioli is near Campo dei Fiori, and Gensola is across the river but an easy walk.
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Old Jul 28th, 2015, 07:48 PM
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In Florence, since you'll be on the train, you can't, I think do better than Trattoria I Due G
4.514 Google reviews
Down Home Cooking Restaurant

Address: Via Bernardo Cennini, 6/R, 50123 Firenze, Italy
Phone:+39 055 218623
Hours:
Open today · 12:00 – 2:30 pm, 7:30 – 10:00 pm

Very good, best bistecca Fiorentina I've had in years, and I am fan of the stuff.

In Rome, someone recs Gelateria al Teatro. The very very best.








Photos
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Old Jul 28th, 2015, 09:47 PM
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Le Tamerici worked for us in Rome.

http://www.tripadvisor.com.au/Restau...ome_Lazio.html

Not far from the Trevi fountain (presently being restored).
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Old Jul 28th, 2015, 11:18 PM
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Roscioli and Armando are firmly fixed on the USA food lovers trail - you won't see anyone but your fellow Americans. If that floats your boat then fine. For me, they are like Da Adolfo in Positano - a victim of their hype and about to eat themselves alive.

How about discovering your own places rather than go where all the 'popular kids' go? I love this restaurant - just off Piazza Navona but right out of the tourist path.

http://www.osteriadememmo.it/

or this one - just near the Pantheon but bypassed by tourists as it's down stairs.
http://www.parmaroma.com/

They're just a couple I visit frequently. Maybe they won't be your thing but at least you've been somewhere different.
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Old Jul 29th, 2015, 05:13 AM
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That's absolutely not true about Armando al Pantheon. When was the last time you ate there at the Italian dinner hour? Seriously. Be truthful. After 8.30/8.45, plenty of Italians (by the way, Italians are also tourists in Rome).

However, in August, chances of finding Romans in resetaurants in Rome is pretty slim, no matter which restaurant you choose. Romans who can afford restaurant-going are mostly out of town in August.

If it really floats your boat to eat where only Romans go, rather than go to places that might first and foremost have good, fresh food expertly prepared, iI see no reasons to take recommendations off Fodor's. You might as well take them off Chowhound, where at least you'll find people who have a professional stake or huge ego-investment in being careful about what they recommend. Ex-pats invent all kinds of reasons to rank restaurants in Europe in terms of their snob appeal. "Americans go there" is a fast universally understood put down -- and if they don't go to those restaurants how do they know what the food is? Don't cheat yourself of good food in Rome because people think as a tourist you should affect a certain behavior.

As for other subjects, I don't meach much cheese either -- for some reason it give me muscle cramps! However, if you are going to nibble cheese on the fly, Beppe e i suoi formaggi in the Campo de'Fiore area is outstanding for all of Italy -- a reason in itself to go to Rome.

http://www.beppeeisuoiformaggi.it

You may see Americans there. I hope so! He deserves all the business in the world.
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Old Jul 29th, 2015, 06:00 AM
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On our other trips to Italy we pored over our Gambero Rosso guide and tried to hit all the "highlights"; these days I much prefer to trust the recommendations of friends who live abroad and a few posters I have come to know fairly well. I like to go to a combination of places: high profile and off the beaten path. We generally don't have many "misses" so it's been working out well
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Old Jul 29th, 2015, 07:04 AM
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Just a few experiences on places mentioned above:

La Gensola in Trastevere: We had very good food but a total service disaster.

Armando al Pantheon: last visit (not our first) was a disaster. My bowl of pasta was wet, gluey and flavorless. When the waiter came to clear, it wasn't mentioned by him. We didn't stay for dessert (which we had enjoyed in the past) because the rest of the meal was not good.
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Old Jul 29th, 2015, 07:37 AM
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tuscanlifeedit, I'm sorry to hear that about Armando Al Pantheon. I've enjoyed several good meals there but I haven been there in a few years. I was planning to go back on my upcoming trip this September.
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Old Jul 29th, 2015, 10:55 AM
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We have a very dear friend who is a high profile NYC chef who hails from Abruzzo. He loves loves loves Cesare but told us to avoid Armando. Who knows? Now I'm curious and will have to go!
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Old Jul 29th, 2015, 12:15 PM
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HI!

Look into the places in Massa Lubrense including La Torre in a fraccione of Massa; tables outside with very distant view of Capri.

http://www.latorreonefire.it/

I cannot urge you enough to travel by bus/taxi to the town of Cetara for some very great eating there. I think there are a lot of reports here and also on Chowhound, a few of which I wrote myself on the latter site.

Very old threads but maybe interesting to you:

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...alian-cuis.cfm





http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...and-naples.cfm
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Old Jul 29th, 2015, 02:58 PM
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Sandralist are your comments directed at me? If so the 'Italian dinner hour' (which you didn't need to explain) is what I do as my Italian family know no different. Plenty of foreigners in Armando at that time - I don't mean to single out Americans but word gets around about places like Armando and they become victims of their undeserved - IMHO - popularity.
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Old Jul 29th, 2015, 03:46 PM
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Sandralist we loved Beppe e i suoi formaggi too. We stayed nearby for about a month and would drop in for wine/cheese recommendations. We found they were charming people.
I can second the recommendation for Cesare al Casaletto, we enjoyed several good meals here, it's a easy tram ride from Largo Argentina. If this feels like a schlepp then forget about, "getting off the beaten track".

We liked the food at Roscioli, but found it a bit of a scene.
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