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May in Paris and Provence

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May in Paris and Provence

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Old Jan 29th, 2006, 08:05 AM
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May in Paris and Provence

My wife, 20 year-old daughter and I are in the midst of planning a trip to France, arriving in Paris on May 12 and departing on May 29. This will be my second, my wife was born and spent her childhood in Paris and this will be our daughter's first visit.

As we planned our Switzerland/Italy trip in 1999, along with studying pertinent guidebooks and traveladvisor.com, we have spent over a month pouring over the many postings in this forum.

We now turn to you my dear friends for advice and guidance.

We have reserved an apartment in the 4th arrondissement across from the Pompidou Center from May 12,checking out on May 18.

That morning we intend to take the TGV to Avignon. Much to my wife's chagrin (she does all the driving and is terrified at the idea of driving in France) we would rent a car there, tour Avignon and drive to Les Baux later that afternoon. We are staying 2 nights at the Prince Noir in Les Beaux http://leprincenoir.free.fr/index.htm#en

During our first full day there we plan to drive to Arles, tour there a half-day and do a loop through St. Remy back to Les Beaux and enjoy the evening there.

On Saturday, after a liesurely start, we would drive the back roads to Cassis, avoiding Marseille, with perhaps lunch in the Aix-en-Provence region. Evening and stay in Cassis (Looking for a place to stay there).

On Sunday, we would take a boat tour of les Calanques and relax in town.

From Monday through Wedneday, we are looking for a Provence Mas in the Luberon. During those three days, we would use this mas as a center for lazy driving tours of the Gordes/Rousillon area and Petit Luberon. Or stay "home" and do some walking around.

On Thursday, we would drive back to Avignon, return the car and take the train to Lyon and spend the afternoon and night there.

On Friday, we would take the train to Beaune, tour the Hotel-Dieu and town.

On Saturday, we were thinking of a hot air balloon ride either in Burgundy or the Loire Valley. Depening on where and if we do this, we would stay the night in that area.

On Sunday, we would take the train back to Paris and spend a night somewhere convenient to a metro , perhaps in the Rue Clerc area.

On Monday, we fly back home.

Suggestions/comments about the planned trip?
A country place to stay in the Luberon?
Where to stay in Cassis and Beaune?


Bonjour_Voyageurs is offline  
Old Jan 29th, 2006, 08:18 PM
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ttt
We're stuck in mid planning; PLEASE help us.
Michèle
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Old Jan 29th, 2006, 09:50 PM
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Dear Michele, there are many "Luberon experts" around but while you have not received any feedback, I will tell you about my favourite country village in the Luberon.

It is the lovely village of Saignon, where I can recommend the Auberge du Presbytere. You can easily reach places like Bonnieux, Rousillon, L'Isle Sur la Sorgue, Fontaine du Vaucluse and many more from there. Apt is also only about 11 km away.

The Luberon is lovely - enjoy!
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Old Jan 30th, 2006, 04:39 AM
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Michèle, a couple of thoughts come to mind. You may already have picked up some of these in our research here, but if not, they might be helpful:

- if you are not staying overnight in Avignon, the easiest place to pick up your rented car is at the Avignon TGV station; it's on the outskirts of the city, and it is quite easy to get from there to Les Baux. When you book your TGV tickets, make sure you sepcify "Avignon TGV" as the destination.

- I think most people here have made the pleasant discovery that driving in France is not as difficult as they initially fear. There have been many posts here about rules of the road and driving habits; you can find them in a search. Some first-time drivers find navigation a challenge. You simply have to remember that the most prominent direction signs point you to towns (either your destination or a town along the way); highway numbers are far less visible. Good maps are essential. I like the Michelin "local series" (they are numbered in the 3XXs), but others are content with smaller scales.

- like chiarachiara, I like Saignon as a base for the Luberon, but as Stu Dudley has pointed out here before, you pretty much have to drive through Apt to see the western end of the Luberon. Goult is more centrally located (in fact, it is about halfway between Bonnieux and Rousillon).

Anselm
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Old Jan 30th, 2006, 05:04 AM
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I would also suggest that you pick up your rental car at the Avignon TGV station.... but if you want to look around Avignon first, it's best to do on foot ! You can take a shuttle bus to the central train station just outside the walls and walk right up the main street through the Place de l'Horloge and up to the Palais des Papes, which are the highlights of the city.

The drive from the TGV station to Les Baux is easy... even the road over the Alpilles to Les Baux.

I would suggest that you pack light, as you'll have to walk from your car in the parking lot uphill (and it's pretty steep in places)to your B&B in Les Baux.

There really isn't much to do in Les Baux after 6 or 7 PM when all the tourist shops close, so you might wish to have dinner in St Remy before you head back there.

It seems a shame that you won't be visiting the Pont du Gard and Uzès while in the area.

There's a lovely B&B called La Ferme de la Huppe just outside of Gordes (sorry, I don't have the website handy) in the Luberon.

If I can answer any questions about the St Remy, Les Baux portion of your trip, feel free to email me - I live just outside of Les Baux.

Patricia
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Old Jan 31st, 2006, 08:07 AM
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Dear Chiarachiara,
Mille fois merci for the suggestions in the Luberon!

To Anselm,
Your recommendations are very helpful and we will look into them. My husband is a map fanatic and already is scrutinizing the latest local Michelin map for the area.

and Patricia,
We intend to pick up the car at the TGV station in Avignon. Some of the postings have talked about rental cars being ransacked but I'm hoping that these were unusual circumstances. Perhaps it would be wiser to leave our belongings in a locked area at the station, tour Avignon on foot as you suggest, then return to the station for the car and our bags???
My husband was aware that Les Baux turns into a ghost town after the tourists are gone and that's what attracted him to the idea of staying at Le Prince Noir. I believe that we are able to drive the car up to the B & B after dark.
While doing more research (and before reading your reply), I found the website for La Ferme de la Huppe and it is now on our list for discussion.
Thank you for the offer of more assistance, I just might take you up on it. Please email your address to me.
Lastly, any comments/suggestions from:
Stu Dudley
Cigalchanta
St. Cirq
TravelNut
S. Fowler
ira
and anyone else???

Merci!
Michèle
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Old Jan 31st, 2006, 09:06 AM
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Michèle,

I wouldn't suggest trying to drive in Avignon... the underground parking lots are a pain to get to since they've been having fun all winter changing street "directions" and making them one way - usually not in the direction one wants to go. They are also doing a lot of construction and most of the small parking lots I usually use are now gone or being turned into private lots.

Make sure that if you do park in the lot outside of the town walls that you don't leave anything visible in the car. Sadly there are a lot of breakins of rental cars.

Yes, you will be able to drive up to your B&B in les Baux after 7 PM... but only to drop of luggage. You can't leave the car in the village, only in the parking lot down at the entrance.

If you would like to email me about anything my email address is [email protected]

Patricia
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Old Jan 31st, 2006, 01:05 PM
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Hi. Sounds like a great trip. Lubéron is a great place. My favourites hotels :
1) Le Moulin, L'Ourmarins
2) Hotel Les Bories, Gorde
3) Bastide de Capelongue, Bonnieux.
Gorde being the nicest village...but everybody knows it ! Bonnieux, Apt are less crowdy. May will be OK anyway.

For Cassis area est one is Les Roches Blanches, with one of the best view of mediterranean sea (not joking, I live in Marseille, I can tell). This hotel however is quite expensive and can be perceived as "old fashioned". 2 good options : is Mahogany Hotel (almost the same view as previous one) and Royal Cottage (very nice, that's were all our international customers usually stay).
Keep an hour to rest on the beach of Bestouan ("Plage du Bestouan", right under Mahaogany Hotel). Keep in mind that on Saturday in May, Cassis might get crowded by cars getting to the beach. Park your car at the hotel and walk.
THE MANDATORY DRIVE : drive from Cassis to La Ciotat on the small road called "Route des Crêtes". Once again, one of the best scenic drive ever. Road goes all the way up to the sea cliffs (highest in Europe, which is even more than the irish cliffs of Moher). Amazing 30minutes drive. You can use the tollway to drive back.

If you have some time, don't skip Marseille it's a city like or another. Can be perceived as very dirty (it is indeed) but some places in the south part are great and I can give you a few places to have dinner in the wildside, you would not believe you're still in the city.
Have a nice trip !
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Old Jan 31st, 2006, 05:55 PM
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Old Feb 9th, 2006, 02:19 PM
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For benjinho:
After further research we settled on your recommendation to stay at the Royal Cottage. I am curious though, what you mean when you say "Royal Cottage (very nice, that's were all our international customers usually stay)"
What business and where are you located?

For Patricia,
Many thanks for your offer and email. I am sure I will take advantage of it as we progress along planning this journey.

Anyone have suggestions for a place to stay in Aix, Lyon and Beaune?
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Old Feb 9th, 2006, 02:37 PM
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I agree with benjinho. Try to visit Marseille; it's a vibrant, exciting city. It was one of my favorites of a tour through Provence.
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Old Feb 9th, 2006, 03:14 PM
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We loved La Ferme de la Huppe, but I wouldn't call it a B&B; it's more of an inn, complete with a very good restaurant and a nice swimming pool.
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