May 2005 - Ireland Trip Report

Old May 14th, 2005, 03:09 AM
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May 2005 - Ireland Trip Report

Ten day tour of the Galway, Dingle, and Kenmare areas:
Part 1
We (two 50-year old women from Vermont)arrived Shannon from Boston at 5:45 AM on May 2. Flew Aer Lingus which was fine. Got our rental car (Ford Focus with 1500 killometers on it) from Dan Dooley. Great car and the service was just fine. Nancy drove...took to it like a fish to water (unlike me). Nothing open at the airport so we headed to Ennis expecting to find a restaurant for breakfast. It was either too early or maybe because it was a holiday nothing was open. We picked up a baguette and a chunk of irish cheese at a gas station/deli. Then onto the Cliffs of Moher and Burren. We were tired but the weather was pretty good so we decided to drive. Got to the Cliffs around 9:00. Stayed for about an hour. O'Brien's Tower was not open. When we left the tour busses had begun to arrive en masse. Headed north through Doolin and into the Burren. Beautiful in its starkness. If we hadn't been so tired we would have done more than stop and photograph. It would be a neat place to walk. Had lunch in Ballyvaughan then headed to our B&B (Clifden House, about 65 euros/pp) in Corofin. Stopped along the way at various historic spots. Nice B&B except breakfast wasn't served until 9:00 which is late for us. Took a row (there are 2 boats) out to Inchiquin Castle (O'Brien) as Nancy is an "O'Brien". Had dinner at Bofey Quinn's in town. Drove over a broken bottle while parking...luckily no flat tire.
The next day we headed north through Turlough stopping at historic sites along the way and eventually arriving in Galway in time for a late lunch. Stayed at Four Seasons on College Road (about 35 euros/pp). Nice hosts, utilitarian room. Fresh squeezed orange juice at breakfast. Eddie, our host, suggested Tig Coili for early (6:30 I think) trad music. A good choice. We heard different music on two nights there. Very good.
Did a day trip to Inis Mor. Awesome place. It was a nice day and we rented bikes (10 euros each). Dun Aengus was incredible as were some of the other sites we visited. Wished we'd had more time and vowed to return on another trip.
The next day we drove up into the Connemara region doing a loop from Maam Cross up through 'Joyce's Country' to Leename, Cliften, Roundstone and back to Maam Cross. Loved the 'Joyce's Country' area in particular. Wanted to do the Sky Loop Road in Clifden but we didn't want to spend the additional time in the car. It was a long day as it was. Did a little hike in the Connemara Park. Stopped at Kylemore Abbey which I could have skipped. For 11 euros each we could see very few rooms. I hear the gardens are very nice but it was raining pretty hard at that point so we skipped them. We had good dinners at McDonough's and a 'gourmet' pizza resturant called "Milano". Recommend this for a change of pace. They had a good salad too; a rarity in Ireland.
The next day we left Galway for Dingle via the Tarbert/Killimer ferry. Say dolphins on the ferry trip. Had a nice lunch in Castlegregory at Phil's. Good home-made vegetable soup and chicken curry for about 12 euros total. Drove Connor Pass in the mist (no views that day). Stayed at Emlagh Lodge (32.50 euros/pp). Our favorite B&B of the trip. Located on the harbor with water views out both windows of our large room (called 'Seaview'). A truly beautiful spot! Also a decent walking path along the water that we did before breakfast the first morning. I highly recommend this B&B. We didn't hear any music here (at all started too late in the evening for us). Did the Slea Head drive on a beautiful day. Stopped at many of the historic sites and if we'd had another day we would have gone to Great Blasket Island. We did stop at the Blasket Island Heritage Center and were glad we did. Very interesting history of the islands. Left for Kenmare after two nights in Dingle. We did drive up the Connor Pass that morning before leaving so we would see what we missed upon arriving two days prior. Nice view back towards Dingle. There is a walking path up there. We will save that for the next trip along with hiking Mt Brandon.
I will take a break and finish with the second part of this report later. If anyone has questions, let me know. I must say that Ireland is a beautiful country with friendly and polite people. I certainly intend to return.
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Old May 14th, 2005, 07:25 AM
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Dear Carolsc, Hurry, hurry, write more. I'm really enjoying your report. I left Ireland a week before you arrived. Thanks for reporting and look forward to more. Regards, Joan
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Old May 14th, 2005, 07:34 PM
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Glad to hear you liked Emlagh Lodge. A friend (also 2 women), and I are staying there for 2 days in September. We are doing a 5 day, south west circle from Shannon airport and then a 8 day walking tour, with JoyceIreland tour along the West coast going North. Will be interested to hear the rest of your tour.
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Old May 15th, 2005, 02:54 AM
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Trip Report, Part 2:
Leaving Dingle we stopped at Inch Beach for a little walk. It was low tide and the beach is quite wide. No bird life though. Then off to Killarney which was mobbed (it was a pleasant Sunday and horse racing was going on). We walked in town a bit, had lunch, found out the tourist info office is closed on Sundays, and booked a tour of the Gap of Dunloe through Dero's Tours (25 euros each) for the next day. Then we headed towards Dingle with stops at Ross Castle and the Torc Falls where we did a little walking. We have more spectacular falls locally so it didn't seem that impressive but it was nice to do a little 'hiking'. Checked into Viginia's Guest House in Kenmare right on one of the streets in town and above a restaurant. The owners are great, two of the nicest people we met. The room (45 euros/pp for one of the larger rooms) was upstairs and had a queen sized bed and sitting area. (The TV had a lot of stations not that we spent much time watching but it is noteworthy because every other B&B had 3 or 4 stations only.) Breakfasts included fresh squeezed orange juice and homemade toast (not the usual store-bought white bread). Nancy had porridge with whiskey & cream one morning.
Had a nice dinner at the Lime Tree Restaurant. I was taken with a painting they had called 'the sheep shearer' by Liam O'Neil. I seached art galleries the rest of the trip looking for his work and other than a large one in a gallery in Killarney I was unsuccessful. It would have been a nice reminder of the trip to have a painting. As it was I came home with only a Smithwicks glass.
Drove back to Killarney to meet the 12-person tour bus. The Gap of Dunloe hike was actually a walk along a paved road (almost all the roads we traveled were paved, very unlike Vermont!). Though we carried a walking stick we certainly didn't need it. The distance was about 6.5 miles and the scenery well worth the walk (or other means of transportation for those not wanting to walk). It took us (and the others in our group) close to 2.5 hours at a leisurely pace to get to Lord Brandon's Cottage at the end of the walk. We had barely enough time to split a bowl of vegetable soup (which seems to always be the 'soup of the day' everywhere...we got a kick out of that) before our boat was ready to take us back through the lakes to Ross Castle. The boat ride was enjoyable though a little cold. It took my ungloved hands about an hour to thaw out. Our 'driver' was a character and told Irish tales (some where probably accurate) off and on the whole way back which took a little over an hour I think. Got back to Killarney before 4:00. Went to a photo store across the street and had our photo card put on a cd for safe keeping (6.50 euros).
The next day we left Kenmare and headed south for Glengarriff. It was a nice drive...views and tunnels through the rock mountains. Just south of Glengarriff we turned off to the north as we had decided yesterday to go see the Rock of Cashel instead of driving the Barra Peninsula since we had seen so much coastine on the trip already. We drove through the 'Gougane Barra Forest Park' area. One-lane road up and down mountains. Beautiful scenery similar to the drive between Kenmare and Glengarriff. Sheep everywhere. We stayed to the east of Killarney and drove through Mallow and finally to Cashel to see the castle. It was interesting but a long day in the car. We decided we didn't want to stay in Cashel preferring instead to find a place to spend our last two nights (instead of staying 2 separate places). I remembered reading on this forum that Bunratty Lodge was recommended so that is where we went. Got there about 5:00 and Mary Brown told us she had had a cancellation and gave us a room with 2 double beds for 35 euros/pp. The room was fine, a bit 'southern belle' looking for our tastes but it was clean and well kept.
We had dinner at Kathleen's as Mary recommended.
Bunratty is not a place I would return to. Ugly Americans galore. And just too darn touristy. Other than eating dinner we spent no time there. Took a nice walk in Cratpoe Woods (recommended by Mary) then toured Knappoque Castle and Craggaunowen Center. Had a late lunch in Ennis and then went to Dromoland Castle(O'Brien again) for a look. Then back to Bunratty where we did enjoy the trad music at Kathleen's our last night (it started at 7:30). After our last breakfast we took a brief walk and then headed to Shannon. Spent the last of our euros in duty free (candy bars and whiskey samplers). Uneventful flight home. Even though it has only been three days since leaving I'm ready to go back. A beautiful place. Wonderful memories.
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Old May 15th, 2005, 08:21 PM
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Thanks, Carolsc, for your interesting report! Very helpful! And I have a question for you - I've been trying to get an opinion about Craggaunowen from someone who has been there recently, but had no replies.You were there! Can you tell me if it was worthwhile? and do you think it would appeal to kids of all ages (3 to 17)? and to adults? If we must choose between Bunratty Castle and Folk Village vs, Craggaunowen, with the kids, which would you recommend? And I'd also love to hear more about Inishmore - again, with all our different ages in mind - and only one day. I'm presuming we old folks will not be able to walk up to Dun Aengus - are any of the other interesting sites you mentioned more accessible for less-than-able seniors? I suppose there is beautiful scenery, even if we must view from a distance? Thanks!
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Old May 16th, 2005, 03:15 AM
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Glad to hear back from you and that you had a great trip. Don't you just hate leaving Ireland?
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Old May 16th, 2005, 08:13 AM
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I'll just slip in and post an answer to the question about Craggaunowen. I didn't see your original question.

We enjoyed it a lot and think that kids would especially appreciate all the places to get rid of some energy and see a lot of interesting things about the way Bronze Age peoples lived in the crannogs (lake forts) and ringforts. There's also a castle on the site which was built around 1550. Not a lot to see in it but you do get an idea of how spartan things were.

In the Ringfort, your kids would probably enjoy climbing down to the souterrain - I was too chicken to, but my husband did - which are underground passages where they stored food. There are also wild boars that the Iron Age people hunted - took me a while to pick one out from the same coloured rock.

One of the primary reasons we rent was to see the boat that Tim Severin and two others used on the Brendan Voyage (if your kids haven't heard of it, there's a great book by Severin they could read ahead of time. A real, action thriller). It was amazing to think they travelled so far in this little thing.

I think it's definitely worth a stop for you and your kids.

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Old May 16th, 2005, 08:29 AM
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Wonderful! Thanks, Nickmay!!
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Old May 16th, 2005, 12:52 PM
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GmaMcD: Regarding your questions about Craggaunowen, Bunratty and Inis Mor. The big thing about Craggaunowen is that it reconstructs (expertly) several aspects of pre-history and early christian Ireland that you cannot find elsewhere (as in they don't exist) specifically the crannogs (lake houses), hunter's cooking sites (fullacht fiadh),and a functioning souterrain. In addition live wild boars and as mentioned the actual boat used by Tim Severin recreating St.Brendan's boat [we thought it was a replica but learned later it is the real deal]. Everything there is very accessible - except the souterrain which requires a little agility and nerve. It's billed as 'the living past' so we were half expecting people playing roles - that was not the case but was still well worth it (we think about E7.00 per adult). That said there are a few replications there that if you've seen a real one are disappointing - a dolmen tomb for example. The tower house is partly real and again reconstructed so not totally authentic - plus there are so many real ones around.
Frankly we avoided Bunratty folk park because we believed it to be very tourist oriented and it was fairly expensive. Might be good though for kids and I suspect everything is very accesible. We did hear from folks that if interested in the medieval dinners Krappogue castle nearby is a little less frequented than Bunratty and in that regard better - less showlike. One could do all these in one day due to their collocation.
We had a delightful day (actually about 5 hours max when you finally get there on the ferry)on Inis Mor. A day gives you a taste but we decided when we go back it will include an overnight. There is plenty to see there - other than Dun Aengus - from a jaunting car or tour van - the guides are very willing to take you anywhere you want to go ..other ringforts churches and bee hive huts. Most require a little walking on somewhat uneven ground but relatively flat. Dun Aengus is well worth the walk if you can manage an uphill over some uneven ground - it is on a rocky path. It is important to stress, as I'm sure you've read,that once on the site there are no barracades to a 200 foot drop. Small children may need to be on a leash! Because it is all outdoors a nice day is a huge benefit worth planning around. Holler if you need other details.
Nancy for carolsc ...
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Old May 16th, 2005, 01:44 PM
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CarolSC/Nancy - thanks for your report! I will be in Ireland in September and will be at some of the same places, so I appreciate your thoughts! I had already planned to spend the night on Inis Mor, so I'm glad to hear you would recommend it.

SPRATT: I, too, will be at Emlagh Lodge in September! Maybe I'll see you there!
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Old May 17th, 2005, 12:53 AM
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Carolsc & Nancy - Thanks! Your descriptions are helpful. With so many of us (29 - our six kids and their families plus us,the grandparents) and only 8 days, we can't waste time on indecision when there! July 1 will be here before we know it.
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Old May 20th, 2005, 06:48 PM
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suspire, we will be at Emlagh lodge on Sept 27 and 28. You??
carolsc
thanks for the very informative report.
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