I was wondering if I would cross paths with you on my trip! I will in Italy around the same time as you. We will be in ML, which is my husband's hometown.

As much as I love to eat and read your food reports, I am not the best person to advise you on food since I have food issues or phobias that you clearly don't. As a result we don't go to lots of renowned places in the area, not to mention we eat a lot of Mamma's cooking when we're there anyway.

I have been to Le Torre once or twice, but it's been a few years. I don't remember anything in particular about the food. As far as getting there, not clear on your driving question. Do you mean actually finding your way or the road? The roads around are narrow and winding like most in the area, they are also not well marked. You might see a street sign where the street begins but nowhere else along the way. There is signage directing you to the various villages in ML though.

I haven't been to Terranova but I know that street is right off a road leaving/entering Sant'Agata.

If you have any other questions that I may be able to help with, let me know.

...and now I'm wondering which restaurant is closed on Wednesday.

Hamlet: Many thanks! What a coincidence! Closed Wednesday is Lo Stuzzichino, which is a Slowfood pick that seems to get rave reports. It is right in Sant Agata, so it would be easy to find.
http://www.ristorantelostuzzichino.it/index.php?lng=en



The issue on the driving is this: We have to drive from Praiano to the car return place in Sorrento. I will be traveling with two friends including the one who will be the principal driver. They do not share my interest in food. So I do not want to detour too far off our route to a restaurant, since I already know that the driving in that area is a bit tricky for some of us. I am not worried about finding the places, as we can always ask someone; I was concerned about leading my friends too far astray on winding narrow roads that might induce heart failure in at least one of us, in the cause of finding that one perfect lunch.... Even as I write this, I realize that I am over-thinking the issue...

I could not decide between those two places--Terranova sounds like a charming place, apart from those negative reports. La Torre sounds as if it is a normal restaurant, albeit one with excellent food....

Will you be in the area the last week of this month?

The more I read about ML, the more intrigued I become. Why does that area get almost no attention on this board? It seems to have great scenery, great walks and hikes, and easy accesss to Sorrento. I read mostly about the food/restaurants and they seem to be MUCH better and less tourist oriented than the places along the Amalfi Coast. I am sorry that I did not have time to spend a few days in the area....

eks - were we separated at birth? We stayed in Sant Agata for a week several years and ate at Lo Struzzichino too many times to admit to (plus takeaway!)

There is a lovely restaurant in Marina del Cantone which google maps says is 15 minutes from Sant Agata. We did that drive and while it is a little twisty I don't recall it being heart attack inducing (although I don't tend to suffer from that so my memory cannot be counted on). We had two wonderful meals with Antonio (before the Michelin star so it might be a little pricier than you want).

http://www.ristorantequattropassi.com/en/index.html

Is Don Alfonso 1890 hard to get to? I just looked it up in Gambero Rosso, and they give it a 93.

Gambero Rosso also has a surprising 7 recommendations for Massa Lubrense. (La Torre is one.)

How can you be surprised that places in Italy with great scenery, great food and Italian culture get no attention on this board?

Zeppole: All too true, or so it would seem. I still cannot get over the fact that there is virtually NOTHING here on this area! While it seems as if each and every first-time visitor on this forum to Italy is headed for Positano!

I did not consider Alfonso 1890 because I think it is just too fancy for my taste, although I am sure the food is great. It just does not call my name the way the other places do... Not that I would pass up a chance to eat there if I had a week, but with only one lunch in the area, I wanted to try for some less gussied up local fare. The prices must be astronomical, too.



Elizabeth: I did not realize that you had spent time in that area. You already know that I am a huge fan of your report, and photos! I feel like I missed the boat on this one, but I am traveling with friends who were set on the Amalfi Coast so I am happy that I have managed to work in the Cilento and Maratea. At least I can get a glimpse, albeit only for a drive by (!) of the ML area, and can dream of returning someday soon... Where did you stay in Sant' Agata?

Yes, I will be there this month - leaving JFK in 2 weeks and staying through beginning of Oct. (and then on to Belgium)

If your friend can navigate the coast roads I'm sure getting to Le Torre would be fine.

I am familiar with Lo Stuzzichino and have eaten there a few times. Actually the last time was not good, OK food wise, but the person who was serving us (owner/wife) did not speak. It was strange. Almost literally did not speak, not even a buona sera. Came to the table with a nod of acknowlegment and after a pause we just gave our order. She turned around and came back and uttered 3 words, forgetting something about the order ("ABC o XYZ?"). Never stopped back, never cleared our plates when we were done and so then after a while of laughing about it but being annoyed at the same time, we just asked for the check. She brought it, we left money on the table and got up and left. Mimmo ran after us as we were already out the door and said thank you. Something was very wrong that night (with her) and he must have known. This was 1st week of May before a busy tourist season and there were only 6 tables of people so it was definitely not because it was a busy night.

I went to Quattro Passi a few years ago. I remember it was lovely inside and I had a hard time trying to order. Don A is right on the main street in Sant A and easy to get to. Wouldn't go there for same reasons as you eks, altho one day we may try. (I'm probably the only person in town who doesn't eat fish or cheese or drink coffee or wine. It's good that they still let me cross the border.)

My husband and I discuss the lack of tourism all the time. In some ways the town isn't cut for it and doesn't attempt to. They do have a tourist office though! Things are very spread out and not contained and walkable like Sorrento or Positano or Amalfi (all which easily lure people away) so harder for some to base there. There are few sidewalks to walk from place to place. Having a car is hard, roads are so narrow and frequently don't allow for parking. Massa center and Sant'A don't even really have parking lots. The tourist office is in Massa centro, but there is no concentration of hotels or restaurants there. Punta Campanella was just cleaned up a few years ago and unfortunately I think people still use it as a dump.

The SITA bus is usually used by people to go to/from Sorrento and not really just within ML. We've talked to people there suggesting a shuttle type route that circles a few areas to help tourism and bring locals around to the villages to visit/shop, even for a fee.

There has always been a greater number of visitors from the UK. The well known restaurants are bringing more and more people in from everywhere else though. GVisetti who first ran the ML website and now www.giovis.com provides great info. In some ways it would be great to see ML step it up, but personally speaking, it is nice to know we can always go home to our place in Italy and not be overrun by tourism.

We saw the movie "Benvenuti al Sud" last time we were there and we're thinking of heading to Cilento/Castellabate for a day trip.

Ekscrunchy, I am not familiar with the restaurants you have mentioned but I just wanted to tell you that I loved Massa Lubrense. We stayed there for two weeks years ago on a trip with our now deceased mothers, my sister and our son. We have not been back to stay there but have visited there while staying in Sorrento on several occasions.

I did write a trip report but I think I was Mari at the time (pre-registration days). As Marianna, I know I have commented numerous times when people asked about Massa Lubrense.

Enjoy your visit!

Oh yeah, for heart failure I recommend the road to Conca del Sogno restaurant!

I think I have an idea for my NEXT trip! Thanks, everyone!

I will now see if I can find Marianna's posts on Massa!

Hamlet: This lunch will take place on the last Wednesday of the month; let me know if you want to join us! Still unsure of which place to go, but I fell more confident that we can get there unscathed!

If possible as some point, I recommend you drive Via Nastro Azzurro so you can get the terrific view of "i due golfi." The view is best out of Sant Agata driving to Colli di Fontanelli and straight ahead you have a panoramic view of gulf of Naples to the left and Salerno to the right! There's also a place or two to pull over.

Thanks for the invite. Not able to commit to anything at this point. If you want to get in touch off line and I can give you my # in Italy in case we can make a plan, write me at cybernex...net

Hamlet, thanks. You are probably right about the difficulty of making plans with so many variables and with so many parties involved. I wrote to Fattoria Terranova and asked about a booking there for lunch on the 28th.
If and when I get a response, I will let you know and you can decide at the last minute to join us if you are able. Bring Mama, too!

Looks like we will just miss you there eks. Have a great time and be well.

Flame: I hope that you have a marvelous trip! I look forward very much to reading all the details after your return!

So far no response from Terranova, but I expect that they will get around to it soon...