Also: Any comments on Benahavis for an overnight stay?

You probably know I love both Málaga city and Nerja, very different cities/towns in all ways, not at least in size (pop. 550 000 vs. 22 000). If you find much of the museums in Málaga to be closed on Monday (there will be plenty of great restaurants/tapas bars open both Sunday and Monday), a trip to Nerja is not a bad idea.

Then I suggest you visit the quite spectacular prehistoric caves, lived people here 25 000 years ago. Discovered in 1959 and it's much of the reason for the growth of Nerja as a tourist destination. Open every day. In winter from 10-14 and 16-18.30.

Perhaps go in the morning, and leave time for a lunch in a typical Nerja restaurant. I suggest La Puntilla in the midst of the beautiful old town: http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g315917-d1897626-Reviews-La_Puntilla-Nerja_Costa_del_Sol_Andalucia.html

If it's closed, there are a couple of perfectly fine options very close by (within 50-100 meters).
Los Cuñaos: http://www.nerjatoday.com/barsandrestaurants/los-cunaos/
Taberna de Pepe: http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g315917-d1002954-Reviews-Taberna_de_Pepe-Nerja_Costa_del_Sol_Andalucia.html

Perhaps also visit the new Nerja museum about the regions history, 5 floors and 1400m2: http://www.cuevadenerja.es/index.php?modulo=mus_obra

The museum is just off the famous landmark Balcón de Europa.

Nerja is far from the tourist developments west of Málaga and has retained much of it's small town charm. It's popular with tourists and some parts of town are very touristy, but not much have changed the past ten years.

Kimhe: Many thanks for this, and for all of your other incredibly helpful responses over the years. I've been to Spain quite a few times but somehow I always missed Malaga and am not quite eager to see what I've been missing. There seem to be direct buses that take only an hour, so perhaps we will take a daytrip to Nerja on Monday.

We will be driving from Gaucin to Malaga (on a Sunday) so any advice on routing/stops for lunch is also welcome. Many thanks!

In Málaga, be at least sure to visit Casa Aranda for a coffee or chocolate con churros for breakfast or anytime. In C/ Herreria del Rey, 3, just off main street Marqués de Larios: http://www.casa-aranda.net/

Perhaps wander about in the narrow streets in the very small area between C/ Marqués de Larios in the west, Calle Granada in the north and the Cathedral in the east.

Late in the evening you might have a glass and/or a light meal in the back of El Pimpi in Calle Granada. Exit through the doors in the rear and meet Alcazaba at night: http://www.ojodigital.com/foro/urbanas-arquitectura-interiores-y-escultura/195123-alcazaba-de-malaga.html

sorry for the hijack -

@kimhe: you always have great advice/tips, so I'm wondering what's your thoughts on Nerja vs. Ronda? (I have Ronda for 2 nights planned after Granada, but now I'm thinking maybe go somewhere else - Cadiz? Cordoba? Ronda? now after reading your advice here, Nerja?

(Main reason for thinking Cadiz or Nerja, is because it'll be nice to be near a beach in July)

Thanks!

There is plenty to do in Malaga for a day or so even without any museums. There is a nice old center to walk around, the cathedral is wonderful, the port area is interesting, nice park. I did a really short trip report, but there's a link to my photos which will give you an idea what there is to see.

http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/southern-andalucia-photographic-trip-report-malaga-ronda-and-gibraltar.cfm

Isabel your photos are incredible! Thanks so much for posting...you've convinced me!

I'll probably want to spend a few hours in the main food market as well, to shop for treats to bring home.

ekscrunchy,

Casa Aranda is 40 meters from the great Atarazanas food market!

jomagpie,

Ronda, Cádiz and Nerja would be very different and highly recommended in their own ways.

Ronda is cradle of bullfighting and stunning landscapes. Wonderful Rocío Molina dancing a rondeña in the bullring: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rQcJC72NTsc

Cádiz is 3000 year old Phoenician Gadir (one of the oldest cities in the world), cradle of flamenco, home of the liberal 1812 constitution (the bicentennial of "La Pepa" is celebrated through all of this year), a Havana-like old town, magical light and some of the finest beaches in the country. Sara Baras from Cádiz is one of the most famous flamenco dancers in the world, and she is currently touring with her homage to her hometowns 1812 constitution "La Pepa":
http://www.flamencotv.es/es/actualidad/noticias/item/4131-sara-baras-es-la-voz-del-pueblo-en--la-pepa.html

Small Nerja is understandably very popular with tourist, wonderful beaches among the cliffs, high quality both Spanish and international restaurants, a very laid-back atmosphere and still a small town Andalucian atmosphere outside the most touristy areas. At the end of this short clip Rocío Molina is dancing on home turf (she's from neighbouring Torre del Mar) down in the famous Nerja caves last summer. A great night! http://www.canalsur.es/portal_rtva/web/noticia?id=184206

Casa Aranda is on my list!

The Atarazanas market looks fabulous! I can surely spend half a day in there. http://www.spain-holiday.com/blog/atarazanas-malagas-central-market.php

Try to find some Jamón Ibérico de Jabugo at the market. The small town Jabugo in the Huelva province produces the absolutely finest cured ham in the world, San Sebastián pintxos bars and restaurants are full of Jamón de Jabugo. Make them cut it in very thin slices and pack it "al vacío", and it's perfectly fine for several weeks. http://rozannegold.wordpress.com/2011/12/08/ham-from-jabugo-150lb/

topping, shall come back later.

Kimhe: I will not miss the jamon Iberico! We are not supposed to bring it back to the US (although we can now buy it here for very high prices), but I plan to consume a hefty share while in Spain!

For those who do not know about this world-class ham, here are a few threads:

http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/absinthe-and-jamon-ibericoboth-now-available-in-the-us.cfm


http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/iberian-ham-jamn-ibrico.cfm

http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/huelva-jamon-iberico.cfm



What else, in addition to the ham, should be on my shopping list for the Malaga market?
(Staples that I always bring home from Spain include: 3 varieties of pimenton de la Vera; canned seafoods; tortas de aceite (a relatively new addiction) olive oils; dried beans; almonds and garlic and saffron from La Mancha.)


Anything particular to the Malaga area?




There is a long thread about shopping in Spain, focusing on food; I will top it now for anyone bound for that country this summer..

We were surprised how much we enjoyed Malaga. The Alcazaba is lovely. We took a cab up to Castel Gibralfaro (great views of the harbor and bullfighting ring) and walked down.

If you like wine, the Malaga Wine Museum is small but sweet and includes tastings. www.museovinomalaga.com

We liked a wine tavern called Las Garrafas (recommended by Pedro at the museum). Be sure to try the “albondigones” -- giant meatballs made with hamburger and almonds.

Hi again.
One of my favourite museums is the local Arts and Crafts, I always take my guests there, and it is open on Mondays, at ten. link http://www.museoartespopulares.com, it is very interesting the rooms dedicated to wine/cask making, the fishing, the leather and saddlery...and the outstanding collection of clay figures. It is very near the Central Market (aka Atarazanas Market).
I am a regular of Las Garrafas, so I rec. it too. You'll see the dishes at a glass counter (refrigerated). Calle Tejón y Rodríguez. You'll find most eating places open. Fried fish restaurants traditionally close as there's no fresh catch on Mondays, but some will be open. Try at Calle Comisario (a narrow street from Alameda to Calle Martínez), after a visit to La Casa del Guardia (Alameda, closed Sundays).
The Moraga is a fashion-tapa place, there is another location at Calle Fresca, very near the Cathedral. BTW, the Cathedral shall be open for the cult on Sunday evening, free but limited access.

You can buy good ham in Malaga, but it is not a local product. At the market we buy only fresh products, i.e. fish. Try to find Melocotones de Periana, Tortas de Algarrobo (a town in the east), goat cheese from Ronda area.
About a restaurant on your way on Sunday, as I believe you'll drive from Gaucin to the coast I can't but recommend you Restaurante Camurí on coastal road N-340 past Estepona, it is very new but running very well, I should know as it belongs to my brothers check www.restaurantecamuri.com, if it suits you, make phone reservation, and use my name if needed.

Forgot to recommend you Malaga muscatel raisins, from Cómpeta area, but make sure they are from Malaga.

Will look for those raisins! Will I find those in the main food market?

Which reminds me; I've had moscatel from this producer and liked it very much:


http://jorge-ordonez.es/

I had a Ordoñez white muscatel last friday, very good. Almachar is one of the towns of the Competa area, being this the big one.
The raisins are packed in triangular or rectangular flat boxes, size about two cds. If not in the market in any dry goods shop around.

Thanks! I will look for them. Will the food market be fully open on Mondays?

Do you happen to know any good restaurants that will be open on Sunday and Monday night?

The market shall be open. About restaurants, I'll have to check. Do you prefer local food or other? Sundy lunch or dinner?
Besides, you are coming in Oct. and who knows by then...many places are closing/opening.

Josele: I see that I missed your response here! Thank you so much for offering to inquire about restaurants open on Sunday. I was hoping to find a very good one for dinner on that night. Local food, seafood, Inventive "gastro" tapas..anything as long as the food is great. We don't mind sitting at the bar, if we can reserve places there. If we cannot find anything really good for Sunday dinner, we could plan a late lunch, instead....

La Moraga Antonio Martin might be open Sunday evening...(??)

We will need a good place for Monday, too....we might do a late lunch, or dinner....

Hi eks, I've been scarce on this site recently (doing too much traveling to write about it) but learned through this and one other post that you're traveling to Spain in Oct/Nov. Have you posted any threads on that part of your trip? I expect you're returning to Northern Spain. I have a trip coming up there in June. If you're debating about anything as you plan, I'd be happy to try to check out things for you if we're nearby.

Our trip will start and end in Madrid. We'll spend one night in Penafiel before moving on to the coast at Aviles beyond Oviedo (or not, I'm debating that and asking for opinions on another thread). Then to Ribadasella to stay for a third time at our favorite Villa Rosario, to Mutriku on Basque coast, St. Jean de Luz, Logrono and back to Madrid. Planning details and meals for that trip now. If you want anything in the area checked out, let me know if I can help.

Julie, a big hello! I did wonder where you had been. Sounds like an incredible trip that you are planning! It's funny because just yesterday I was looking at hotels in the Penafiel area online, trying to figure out where I woulds stay when I have dinner at Mannix. Mind you, this is for some as of yet unplanned, trip that will also begin in Madrid and meander throughout he lechazo territory en route to the northern coast. Much like you are planning. Where will you stay in Penafiel?

I'll take this next Spain trip with a friend who was set on spending some time in Seville. We will begin with 4 nights in Madrid, in an apartment on the SE corner of Retiro park. See thread here for planning details; I know that this location is a bit out of the way and hope it will not prove to be too inconvenient. I am going to check to see if you wrote any Madrid reports (??)

http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/madrid-apartment-search2-bedroomopinions-recs-please.cfm

We only have four nights in Madrid (my friend has never been) and one of these is Sunday, the day of arrival, so the restaurant planning will be critical; I already have a sheet of about 20 places I want to try! I'm all ears if you have any advice on this. I'll begin a Madrid restaurant thread soon...will I look totally food obsessed if I confide how much research I've already done for a trip to take place 5 months from now? (I know my secret is safe with you!)

After four nights in Madrid, we will take the train to Seville where we rented an apartment for 6 nights. (My friend has never been there). We can do a day trip to Cordoba and maybe one additional day trip.

We will rent a car upon leaving Seville and drive to Gaucin, in the Sierra de Ronda, where we have 4 nights that will include the Day of the Dead. Day trip to Ronda from here, and other day trips to nearby "white villages." We found a great-looking apartment with a pool, and that is the reason for the long stay in this tiny village.

http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/gaucin-andalucia-.cfm


And finally, drive to Malaga and spend two nights in a hotel (not decided which hotel yet; would love recommendations; this is Sunday and Monday night so more research than usual will be necessary on the food front since is looks as if pickings will be very slim, especially on Sunday evening.

So that's it. There are SO many areas of the country that I must visit, and hopefully will be able to plan a return trip for NEXT year. Meanwhile I cannot wait to read any and all details of your trip, from planning to the actual travel. So keep in touch, please! Do you have an itinerary with hotels/restaurants? Want to share so we can dream?

Hello Julie,
about the Malaga Hotel, I always rec. AC Malaga Palacio, I saw yesterday they belong/relate to Marriot. The view is unbeatable. Only problem may be parking, as this hotel has not many spaces and have to rely on adjacent parking lots. This you have to check with them but I do not think there'll be problems the day you visit. Next rec. is the NH Malaga, with parking and location but not same view
About Gaucin, I met in London the other day a fellow scottish painter who lives there, of all places. I'll visit her in Sept (she's travelling now) and shall get all kind of info first-hand.

Josele what a coincidence! I'll be very interested to hear your thoughts on Gaucin, and your tips on where to eat, and what side trips to take, from there...thanks for the hotel advice!

We will turn in the car, I think, as soon as we arrive in Malaga (hopefully we can find a rental agency open on Sunday or we may have to wait until Monday..) so perhaps will not need to worry much about parking. Unless you advise keeping the car and driving to the airport on the day of departure (??)

You can return the car at the Railway station (after leaving luggage at the hotel!). Yesterday was Sunday and my friends picked one there. But not all companies have depots there, so check. Going to the airport in Malaga is easy and not expensive as it is near, 5 miles. I guess it might be some 20 eur., but I'll check. There is also a regular line bus that can take 30 min., plus the railway from city center to airport. The tube is being finished and it may take you there as well, let's wait.