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Thanks to Ryanair's sales I have been tempted to take some quick trips to Madrid from Valencia when I see a special event. This time it was to see the Angel Corella Gala Ballet at the Teatro Real.
The mother of a friend of mine went up on the train, and I met her at Atocha. We took a taxi to the 4* Tryp Menfis hotel on the Gran Via.
Our newly decorated modern two-bedded room was not very large, nor was the bathroom. It seems the other rooms with one bed are nicer. For 15E more one can have a Premium room, which looked especially nice. I would only stay here again if their price were VERY competitive. We had a good rate (65E incl. tax) so can't complain too much.
We went directly to the Plaza España and onto the Royal Palace area to walk around. We stopped by the theatre to collect my telephone tickets at a credit card kiosk machine. This took literally 2 seconds.
We tried to have lunch at the recommended Casa Marta near the theater, but even though it was early (1.45) all the tables were reserved as it was "Cocido" ( special Madrid stew) day, and the owner apologized that he couldn't seat us although the place seemed almost empty! I will definitely try this place when I am in the area next time. It was very cosy and recommended to us twice by different people.
We left in search of an attractive place with a menu of the day. We had a very nice meal at the Restaurante de la Opera. The menu was 16E and had a nice assortment of dishes. It is in a very nicely decorated old building, with numerous antiques and photos around the walls. The atmosphere was perfect for my friend's mom first meal in Madrid. Old world.. white table cloths, lots of wood, and filled up quickly with patrons well known by the staff. Plus, it was tasty!
We then strolled back to the hotel to take a rest.
We later took advantage of the free afternoon at the Prado. We visited a good amount of the rooms we had wanted to. It was lovely to see so many people doing the same.
We took a taxi to the theater but Madrid is so dug up right now it can be a real labyrinth depending on where you are going to and from. The next time I go I am sure many of these unpleasant digs will be over and the finished product will be green and friendly. Every time I am in Madrid lately I see a newly landscaped area and must say "well done!".
In fact, Plaza San Martin is 200% nicer than before. This area used to be quite dicey at night as unusual people would be hanging around the few times we parked at that garage. I am glad to see its improvement. The lighting of the Plaza has also been upgraded.The Hotel Palacio San Martin certainly has a prime location.
We then had a quick snack before the Ballet.
This company, Angel Corella, did a wonderful gala in benefit of Unicef. The dancing was superb, and it was well worth the trip. We stayed later to speak to a couple of the dancers I had met in my hometown of Cincinnati. It was fun to chat with them again, as we have a friend in common.
http://www.angelcorella.org/home.html
Seeing the energy of these young dancers, some already at the height of their careers ,...watching them board their bus with their huge gear bags to go back to Segovia where they all live.. and to see the satisfaction on their faces, was all part of a great evening out.
Walking back to our hotel we stopped at Nebraska, a long time cafeteria in Madrid, just to have a fresh fruit cocktail before going to bed. This café is not attractive, but the food is not bad, and stays open fairly late on the Gran Via. VIPS further down the street would have also been fine.
I will quickly list what we were able to do the next day. We went the Convento de Las Descalzas, ( the Claris barefoot Nuns) and enjoyed the tour. I do think it would be better to buy tickets for the English tour, even if that meant buying the tickets and having to come back an hour and a half later to take the tour. But we didn't have time. I translated (the best I could without bothering the rest of the people) all the interesting facts the excellent tour guide told us.
This cloister-convent was opened to the public with the Vatican's permission in the 60's as there is so much wealth for the world to see here.
Most of the girls in the convent were of noble families or Royalty themselves, therefore receiving very valuable gifts from their families during its time. There are still 20 cloistered nuns living here from 18-86 years old. I love this place and never tire of visting it.
Then off to Plaza mayor, the Royal Palace gardens and a few churches as we worked our way back up towards the Sol area.
We then went to El Retiro park to see the Cristal Palace and the boat pond. The trees are turning and it was very tranquil. Such a great place to bike ride or roller blade! There was a lovely outdoor café near the boat pond but we were looking for more of a substantial meal.
We had a great inexpensive lunch at a place between the Retiro and the Prado called "Café San Gerónimo". I walked past it.. was not sure the food would be good until I saw a few businessmen walk in, so I told my friend.. "let's just go here". We unfortunately didn't have time to go to some places I had hoped to dine at. Seeing the city was more important this trip than the food. But this modest café turned out to be just fine and had tasty homemade food.
We had Sopa Castellana.. ( heavy broth, garlic, bits of ham, lots of bread and a whisked egg), that was perhaps the best one I have had in years.
Then, one of us, stuffed peppers and the other, a pork chop and salad and flan and bread pudding for dessert plus a drink for 9 euros each.
We then treated ourselves to tea in the garden at the Ritz before getting our luggage at the the hotel. Tea was the same price as our meal, but with the pianist in the background for most of the time we were there, and the sun lightly beating down on us as we lounged in the comfortable wicker chairs, it was a grande finale for a quick side trip to this amazing city.
Now, since the traffic was very heavy I was afraid to catch a bus or taxi to Atocha from our hotel so we took the metro(s). Unfortunately, my friend's mother was the target of the frequent typical metro robbery as she got onto the train when we changed at Tribunal. She suddenly screamed so loud I thought she was being stabbed or something and almost dropped my bag.
Looking back I realize exactly how these two girls tried to do this . They "blocked " us a bit getting on. The one in front stopped and took up a lot of room, then I stood aside as I was waiting to get on in a civil matter when woman number 2 decides to FORCE herself against my friend's mother for no reason. I got on and then the BLOOD CURDLING (seriously) scream when the doors closed.
I turned and pressed towards my friend and saw she had her hand grasping her wallet with an open purse shouting "she's trying to rob me!!" while the potential thief pointed down to the map on the floor which had now fallen out of her hand.
We quickly moved away, checking out our purses further, staring at these parasites as everyone on the train gave them penetrating looks also. They got off at the next stop.
To say the least it was unnerving but luckily my friend ( a strong 70 yrs. old, I must say!)reacted loudly and quickly.
I accompanied her to her train and then sped off to the airport myself, having to do the Atocha -Barajas metro changing game. But I was drained from this experience. Tired, pressed for time to get to Barajas now as I hadn't dared let her try to get to the train by herself .
I didn't feel I had enough time, considering the heavy Friday afternoon traffic, to do the C1 bus ( outside of Renfe) to the Intercambiador Avenida de América to get another airport bus, which would have been my first choice, as those who read my posts already know! So I had to endure the three trains, numerous steps, escalators, hallways.. to the airport.
I have reconfirmed my preference. The metro to Terminal 1 leaves you so far from the terminal that I will stick to my bus plan that drops me and picks me up at the door!
I cannot imagine this route with luggage..even with just one large rolling bag.
My flight home was uneventful, full of people excitedly going on vacation for the weekend to Valencia, and others returning after work or play in Madrid. It was a pleasant productive trip that ended well, thank goodness!
Thanks for reading!
Madrid in 31 hours again
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What a great report so full of information. Muchas gracias. sorry about the train, it is so sad that this scenario has become a common one. So sad. I just returned from Italy and I must say that everything seems more expensive over there. The 65 eur sounds terrific, even it is some kind of promotion and the room is not big. However I think there is more quiet on the pickpocket's side.
I have a question that I always wished to address: the daily menus which are repeatly such a good deal all over Spain, are they available in Italy or for that matter in any other European country.>? Once in a local hotel in the Dolomites we found one in a little town, but I do not know what to expect out of Spain. Do you know?
Wow, kudos to your friend's quick response! Thanks for posting, lin.
Thanks graziella..
Do you come from the States? Yes, if so, the dollar is having such a tough time. ( But sorry, inside it warms me when I go to the States for one month..)
I do think there are "business lunch" menus, and daily reduced priced menus most everywhere I have been outside of Spain.
I have noticed some places you must ASK if they have one.
Others write it on a board out front or post it on a window, like in Spain.
Others BRING it to you if you ask for it.
re pickpockets. You can never leave your guard down. My friend was constantly looking at the metro map concerned of how I was going to get to Barajas. No matter how much I told her not to worry.. that I knew how to do it, she was busying herself checking everything out and not paying attention to anything else.
I had warned her before we went down into the first station about her purse, but by the time we had walked the half mile to change trains at Tribunal, and were waiting for the metro, she was not thinking about protecting anything.
It happened so fast it is really amazing, but when you go back to visualize the scene, you can see exactly how/when it unfolded. I just wonder at what point they targetted us.. did they follow us from in front of our hotel at the first stop, or were they just hanging out at Tribunal ( one of the popular changing points to go to Atocha.)
I just hope she and I are as lucky in the future.
I really think it is best to put your purse IN your suitcase/carry-on when taking transportation to/from the airport or train. Put some money in your pocket and stash the purse completely.
Hi yk! Yes, she sure can scream!
What a great short trip!
I went to the Convento de Las Descalzas when I was in Madrid last winter - it was my understanding that there aren't any tours in English.....even without understanding much, it was still wonderful to see the artwork there.
Thanks, Mara.
Today they were offering a tour in English at 11.30 which certainly would have been informative for my guest if the guide were as interesting as the man we had.
This past summer I did the tour in English at the convent but the guide's English was VERY difficult to understand-she got very angry when someone tried to ask questions and finally stopped trying to answer them and cut the tour short!Something good did come out of the tour- I learned there is a noon mass on Sundays right next to the entrance to the convent.The same nuns that clean the convent and keep it so polished also sing at the mass from behind a grill -beautiful!
I make it a point to go to Marta's for lunch at least once during my visits to Madrid.Always busy, full of Spanish people-no tourists.It's really small and if it's full we walk down to the palace for about 20 minutes and then go back to Marta's.I've never had a bad meal there-all made from scratch with generous portions! Also has spotless bathrooms!!!
in France you have a daily menu in all restaurants, a bit more expensive and shorter than in Spain, but you can have a fine meal for about 15-20 euros per person.
Did you know that the daily menu was enforced by Franco, the dictator? He wanted people to be able to eat well at fair prices, so he obligated all restaurants to offer an inexpensive meal once a day. Hence the popularity of daily menus in Spain...
Mike, that is very interesting about Franco and the menu of the day.
Lincasanova, I think older women are targeted most, based on what I have read and family experience. Good for your friend's mother that she was able to respond so appropriately.
WillTravel,so true, but I have had even young spry women targetted when I was with them. This happened within the hour after warning everyone about their bags/knapsacks.
Once we were touring the central market learning about the types of jamon at one of the stands, and a large group pushed past our group and the consequences were one important wallet had been stolen. Really ruined the rest of the morning for everyone. I can't warn people enough. No knapsacks on your back and spread your valuables around on inside pockets if possible.
Chapla.. interesting/ a shame about the level of English of the guide. Most likely this person learned her tour in English but has no conversational abilities. That is why sometimes, depending on the guide, the tour in English is not as good as it could be.
Yes, there is a sung mass at 12 that someday I would also like to attend. On Good Friday there is a special procession within the convent and church also that must be amazing.
Re Franco.. universal health care, pensions and welfare were highly developed also.
It is a well known joke amongst Spaniards that the menu del dia is the only good thing left from the Franci era!
There is an on going discussion about what to do about the Valle de los Caidos outside of El Escorial-built by the prisoners of the civil war.As of a couple of weeks ago, the Spanish government voted to try to identify/conduct a census of all (estimated 30,000)who were buried there,haven't read what they intend to do about Franco's grave!
It would be shame to destroy (is this being proposed??)something made with their hands, in respect to those who toiled and lost their lives there.
Hi Lincasanova, I will be staying at Tryp Menfis in abt 2 weeks, is it walkable distance from the hotel to Plaza Mayor? And what about Prado museum? Thanks!
When I first visited Spain, and Franco was still alive the menu del dia was called el cubierto. There was a reatuarant in Barcelona where the menu del dia was than the equivalent of $1.25 for seven courses. But I used to joke the napkin and the fork were two courses. They would put a fried egg on top of the roasted chicken and that was two courses.
Franco may have instituted universal healthcare but there many people wwith horrible teeth and terrible eyes. I remember going with a cousin to visit the dentist. The dentist was 127 years old and it looked like he inherited his instruments from Torquemada. Franco also institued the parador system.
Among the many things that prevented Spain from prospering under FRanco was that a Spaniard or Spanish company had to own 51% of a company which prevented foreign money from entering Spain.
Rumor has/had it that the Corte Ingles was/is owned by the Franco family............!
El Corte Inglés was always in the hands of its founder, Isidoro Areces, as far as I know.
Bookmarking!
Aduchamp. The terrible teeth and the poor failing eyesight was so prevalent. It is only in the past 10 years or so that dental hygiene has become a priority. Things have really improved in that sense!
Noorjahan, the Tryp Menfis is walkable to Opera, Teatro Real, Palacio Real and the Plaza Mayor.
El Convento de Las Descalazas is on the "way" to the Plaza Mayor. Easy to do both those together.
The museum triangle is a bit further but buses across the street take you to Cibeles, then walk RIGHT down the Castellana ( or is it called the Paseo de Prado there?)from there.
Also, you may want to buy the Madrid Vison bus pass for two days and use it as your in-city transportation as there is a stop a minute away at Plaza de España, on the left side of the Plaza as you walk down to it. (almost caddy corner to the hotel).
The Menfis was having a breakfast special for 8 euros while we were there. We had 2 x 1 at normal price (14) due to our "Mas" card. Sign up for it online in case you get some other perk.
Give yourself plenty of time for check out.They only have two people at the front desk, and sometimes ONE, and it seems to take them longer than normal to check people IN.
It is a busy little hotel.
Casa Marta is very near the Teatro Real. Go around the corner from the music store, turn right and immediately left and you will see it. Ask if you get lost. It is just a few steps from the music store. Sorry I don't have the address just now. Thier menu was 10.50E but I don't know if that included drnks and coffee. The R. de la Opera included both for 16 and was very good.
chapla.. I think it was Galerias Preciados the wife of Franco had shares in, but not 100% sure. Perhaps when El C.I. bought them out, she acquired shares in C.I.
The Franco's palatial home in Galicia is on the board for becoming some type of public accesible building.. maybe a parador.
Franco's granddaughter's ex-husband, Alfonso de Borbon, who was beheaded in Colorado skiing down a supposedly "closed off" run where a bannerless wire was hanging at neck's length, during his pre-Olympic USA visit, is buried in the chapel at Las Descalzas. One of his sons was killed previous to that in a car accident while he, himself, was driving the boys home from a ski vacation.
So much tragedy. There is so much more but I should start another thread.
Casa Marta is very easy to miss-as you walk to the palace,it is on the left,calle Santa Clara 10. When it's closed they pull down a metal shutter and make it invisible!With lunch you get a generous carafe of wine, an individual crispy roll and a dish of great olive.The owner is a charming man,always smiling and checking to see all is well.As said before,it is a small place so get there early or check in and ask how long a wait for a table.
I once lived on the street up further from the restaurant.Go up the street towards another favorite street of mine Calle Santiago which leads to Calle Mayor and the Plaza Mayor.You will pass a lovely square and a very old churchkeep looping around to the Plaza de Ramales and there is a beautiful building on the corner of the plaza and calle de Vergara-look up!Then walk down Vergara and you will be back at Sant a Clara!Lovely little neighborhood of Madrid-full of families.
Thanks for the info on the hotel. I just signed up for mas and it says I've 1500 points, I guess just to sign up. I didn't get your breakfast thing- you paid 14 euro normal price due to mas card? Or due to mas card the price was lowered to 14 euro per person?
The Franco's palatial home in Galicia is on the board for becoming some type of public accesible building.. maybe a parador.
Is that near Sada?
Normally breakfast is 14E per person. Due to "Mas" card, you get 2x1(7E each).
But while we were there, they had a breakfast special I saw offered to people( not sure until WHEN) where breakfast is 8 euros/person, regardless of Mas card.
These breakfasts aren't worth it unless you like more than toast and coffee ( usually 2-3 euros everywhere). There was a lot of fresh cut fruit, yogurts, and plenty to choose from, but no granola or pure grain cereals.
They were bringing out freshly made omelettes ( tortillas)near the end of our breakfast, so ask for one if the scrambled eggs don't appeal. I would have ordered one had I known.
This breakfast room is shared with Hotel Washington, their sister 3* right next door.
Aduchamp, yes it is near Sada. It was a "gift" to Franco from the area, proposed and supported by a banker and mayor at the time. Locals were voluntarily requested to sell their adjoining land at low prices to increase the lands of this home before its delivery to the Franco family.
They family is resisting the government's re-possessing it, although so many public funds were used to buy it and gift it to them.
It will be an interesting affair to follow, I am sure.
Here is a webpage with photos, not only of the Pazo, but there is actually the famous one sneaked to the press of Franco on his death bed.("El paciente en el Pardo")
http://www.blogoteca.com/pazomeiras/index.php?gal=1312
Thank you. linca.
hmm.. I didn't mean to say "although so many public funds were used" but "SINCE". sorry
Hi Lin great thread.
Ohio? So many dance people from there.Also alot of Spanish heritage in Ohio, no?
How did you like the ballet? That link you gave for them has a video for Turismo in Segovia that is just fantastic.
Thanks enjoyed it.
The ballet was tops. I will go to Alicante to see them again in December. I was able to meet Angel Corella, and he is so young! The other two dancers were happy to see me, and knew I was coming through our mutual friend.
wow are you a dancer too?
No I am not. Was aficionada for years but left classes about 20 years ago. Just a serious hobby I wish I had kept up.
Well once a dancer always a dancer...20 years or not.
Sounds like you know your stuff.