M_kingdom2: Barcelona (Hotel Arts); Bilbao (Sheraton Hotel)
Jul 26th, 2004, 09:27 AM
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M_kingdom2: Barcelona (Hotel Arts); Bilbao (Sheraton Hotel)
Hello again, I am back from Barcelona and Bilbao!
I will try to cover most aspects of my holiday, and split it into subsections regarding things to see and do, but more importantly, and I?d imagine more useful to others, the hotels. As for restaurants, I will cover these with little depth as I had no exceptional dining experiences on my travels. Apologies in advance for any misspellings.
Barcelona:
I took a taxi from the airport to Hotel Arts (see section below) at a cost of around 24EUR including a ten per cent tip. That evening, like most of the others, I dined locally in the Olympic Port which has countless restaurants, ranging in price from budget to the top-end of mid-priced.
The sights:
I was keen to examine the work of Gaudi, in the form of the Sagrada Familia, and Gaudi?s apartment block on the Paseo de Gracia. The Sagrada Familia is an overly organic towering monstrosity that is in the earlier (only by the actual amount built, not time-wise) stages of construction. One can take a lift to the top of one of the towers; this offered excellent panoramic views over the entire city. Instead of taking the lift (which I had paid for) down to the ground again, I decided to walk down the narrow, rather castle (in the English sense) like stairway. This in itself turned into a nightmare, the stairs becoming steeper and smaller, and eventually the handrail in the centre (separating one from the middle of the stairwell and the air) disappeared. Once down, I had seen quite enough of this ridiculously, and poorly designed building. The next work by Gaudi was the apartment block. I was disappointed to find little more than empty rooms, the whole experience was a little like walking around a new-build block of apartments, no atmosphere, and no exceptional views. The gothic-esque almost grotesque chimneys/roof terrace again afforded excellent views. Gaudi seemed far too and experimental architect, his designs not subtle enough, and really rather hideous - I enjoyed the views from his buildings far more than the buildings themselves. The Picasso Museum was small, but well thought out and allowed one to see how his style, as an artist, progressed - definitely a must-see! The Miro museum was equally well thought out and once again provided an insight into the development of the artist. Mount. Tibidabo, reached by a funicular railway (a short journey - under ten minutes) again offered spectacular views of Barcelona and beyond. A small cathedral at the summit provided further interest. I also took a cable car ride from the port, again more wonderful views, but this experience was a little dull, certainly wouldn?t repeat it! The Rablas were, like most of the city, packed with tourists. Various stalls provided points of ?interest?, it wasn?t seedy or rough as others had made out, but then I didn?t explore it in the evening. I wasn?t that impressed with Barcelona, I walked all around the little side streets, and not so little boulevards, and avenues, but somehow I didn?t warm to the place. Perhaps if I?d have stayed more centrally I would have had a different perspective on this city.
The shops:
Paseo de Gracia (the equivalent of a Bond St. meets Regent St. mongrel) offered one, Louis Vuitton, Yves Saint Laurent, Loewe, other designer boutiques and a Corte Ingles. No Gucci or Prada stores! I was advised to go to Gonzalo Comello, on the same road, for these brands. However, they only carried Prada Sport, and very limited Gucci pieces. I left, very unimpressed by this lack lustre shopping experience. Certainly not a world class shopper?s city like London!
The hotel:
As you may be aware, I had had a rather difficult time choosing between The Claris, The Ritz (seen from the outside only, and didn?t find the aspects appealing), and Hotel Arts; Hotel Arts was the chosen one.
Upon my arrival, the bell captain swiftly removed the luggage from the taxi and whisked it away. One enters a small lobby with two sofas, and a wonderful French delicatessen, ?Hediard?. Two lifts lead into the main lobby of the hotel. The reception area is stylish, if a little bland and international, a frosted glass chandelier looking most out of place. Receptionist was swift and efficient, and obliged my request for a sea view room (having only reserved a city view) on a high floor. To access the rooms, one leaves the lobby down a passageway which has various vases and cut flowers decorating it, to yet another lobby housing the six lifts. Lifts are lined in a burr wood, with the only mirrors being the doors. The corridors leading to the bedrooms are a little bland, lifted only by the occasional painting.
The bedroom comprised a small lobby with two double (single hanging) wardrobes, which led into a very long, but rather narrow room with a marvellous ?wide screen? picture window with views over the pool, marina, and ocean beyond. The bathroom, to my surprise, felt rather dated, with peachy cream sanitary-ware. No Bulgari toiletries (as noted in other reviews), but ones created ?exclusively for Hotel Arts? by some squiggled signatured company in ?Hong Kong and New York?. That said, they were of a relatively good standard. The bathtub was long and wide, but took a terribly long time to fill to a suitable depth. A toilet and bidet were contained in a screened off area, as was the shower cubicle. Unfortunately, as I was to discover, the seal on the shower door wasn?t as flush/tight as it should have been. The combination of two side jets and one fixed head led to one finding the entire bathroom flooded upon exiting the shower. I wondered whether, perhaps, I had left the door slightly ajar, however, when the bathroom was flooded yet again on the next day, I realised it was the seal at fault. The staff were very quick in mopping up the soaking floor, and replacing the towels that I had used in an effort to dry the floor. The bed was comfortable, but still had old fashioned sheets, not a more modern duvet. The control panel (for speakers, blind, and lights) beside the bed which incorporated an alarm clock was a very well thought out feature. One could wake up and at the touch of a button be greeted by ocean views! The Bang & Olufsen stereo was sadly not supplemented by speakers of comparable quantity, those provided were a little feeble and lacking depth of sound - a shame to waste such a great system on them. The television was a little awkwardly placed if one had wanted to watch it in bed. No video library rendered the thoughtfully provided VCR useless - does one really travel with video cassettes? DVDs perhaps, but not videos! A previous reviewer had commented on the ?cheap? fitted furniture. In fact, it is cleverly designed laminated furniture so as to blend in with the wallpaper, and not become a feature in itself. All cupboards were well lit. An iron was provided in the room, along with an ironing board, something I find a little strange for a deluxe property. There were other American school touches like this throughout the entire hotel, nothing wrong, just a little out of place.
The gardens were small, but well landscaped and incorporating terraces for bars, restaurants and a pool deck. The pool was ludicrously small for such a large property, the sun loungers started to free up in the late afternoon. Pool staff did not speak English of any standard - they did not understand when asked for ?towels? even when coupled with a drying gesture. Loungers were available in single or double sizes, and some had ?tents? enveloping them, presumably for those who prefer the shade. Complimentary bottles of chilled water, and apples were available, and even sun lotion and champagne at extra cost.
The lobby area behind the reception contained a small lounging area filled with sofas, deep seated leather chairs and a selection of coffee table books about fashion, architecture and travel. Lemon and minted water was provided in large jugs in the centre of this room. Off of here was the ?Bites? restaurant - a small menu, with lighter dishes that sounded very sickly. On the opposite side was a breakfast room cum lounge, containing more low sofas and deep chairs. A gas fire burnt night and day to serve as a focal point. In the summer this seems ridiculous, style for style?s sake, some function and logic would have been much appreciated. This room led into the bar, a small room with yet more low chairs and banquettes decorated with black and white photography of the Marx brothers. A small ?walk-in? humidor in one corner with the bar running along the length of the room. Drinks were steeply, and irregularly priced. A mojito (well made, and a generous size) was priced the same as a champagne cocktail at 16EUR - fine for the latter, but too much for the former. Martinis were all 13EUR. It seemed as if they had been rather lazy and thoughtless in pricing the drinks, almost with the attitude ?if you can afford to stay here, anything goes?! Service was prompt and efficient. I will note that the cigars were all cheaper than if shop bought in the UK, but I imagine this is something more to do with duty/taxes rather than the hotel?s generosity.
The restaurant where one took a buffet breakfast (the name has recently changed and is no longer that advertised in the room) had a large terrace with equally large and cumbersome pieces of wooden furniture. Service, as in the bar, was prompt and efficient, copious amounts of fresh orange juice, and good quality (but by no means the best) coffee was offered by waitresses who continually swanned around. The buffet itself has the usual breads, fruits and pastries. Most notable were the bagels (another American touch), Moet et Chandon champagne, and fresh strawberries with cream that were provided. 25EUR + 7% tax seems relatively good value when compared to other dining options at this property. I took breakfast on three out of five mornings, whilst it is not the best hotel breakfast I?ve had, it is one of the best, certainly recommended. I should also point out that ?Bites? offers an à la carte breakfast menu, but after one would?ve ordered orange juice and coffee, it is more cost effective to have had the buffet and had only a few things.
Arola had an excellent menu, however, on the evening I had decided to try it, I was informed (in the morning) that it was fully booked. If I had known it would be so popular I would?ve booked it upon my arrival, I feel that the receptionist should have not overlooked this when checking me into the hotel, at the very least there should be a note in the room advising very early booking. Instead I dined at the main restaurant (Enoteca Bombasti - or words to that effect!). Again I noted the weird pricing system. Starters ranged in price from 10EUR-28EUR (excluding caviar), and main/fish courses from 18-32EUR. The starters seem overpriced, and the main courses slightly underpriced, this is inconsequential, but looks strange on the menu. Food was well presented, if a little sickly at times, but all in all, an enjoyable meal. The poolside restaurant was very casual, and offered a light menu, pizzas, grilled meats, and suchlike; it was also of an equally high standard, with efficient and courteous service. I did not take any other meals at the hotel, but it all seemed to be pretty international fare.
Service was very American styled: ?It is my pleasure, have a nice day?, which was polite, if rather insincere, but this cannot really be criticised. The concierge was excellent, pointing out various places of interest and locating them on a map, as well as shopping suggestions - they cannot be blamed for Barcelona?s lack of quality shopping. When I requested the room to be serviced within the hour, they obliged, with smiles on their faces.
As a last note, the hotel lacked atmosphere, this was due to the guests staying there. Mainly brash Britons from Essex (read Louis Vuitton obsessives), and various sections of American society; ranging from older people ?on vacation? to terribly green corporate types; one man asked his colleague, after touching his trousers ?are they wool? followed by, ?am I dress okay??, how green! During the day people walked around the lobby in sandals, and shorts, which is acceptable given the casual and resort nature of the hotel. However, at 11PM I do not expect to see people walking barefoot (mainly Americans I am afraid) though the hotel. There was no grand or even stylish atmosphere, the hotel had a rather too corporate emphasis on things. If I were to return to the city (which I won?t be) I would stay there again as it was such a relief to escape the madness of the city centre and walk along the pleasant (if corpse like) beach.
More on Bilbao to follow shortly.....
I will try to cover most aspects of my holiday, and split it into subsections regarding things to see and do, but more importantly, and I?d imagine more useful to others, the hotels. As for restaurants, I will cover these with little depth as I had no exceptional dining experiences on my travels. Apologies in advance for any misspellings.
Barcelona:
I took a taxi from the airport to Hotel Arts (see section below) at a cost of around 24EUR including a ten per cent tip. That evening, like most of the others, I dined locally in the Olympic Port which has countless restaurants, ranging in price from budget to the top-end of mid-priced.
The sights:
I was keen to examine the work of Gaudi, in the form of the Sagrada Familia, and Gaudi?s apartment block on the Paseo de Gracia. The Sagrada Familia is an overly organic towering monstrosity that is in the earlier (only by the actual amount built, not time-wise) stages of construction. One can take a lift to the top of one of the towers; this offered excellent panoramic views over the entire city. Instead of taking the lift (which I had paid for) down to the ground again, I decided to walk down the narrow, rather castle (in the English sense) like stairway. This in itself turned into a nightmare, the stairs becoming steeper and smaller, and eventually the handrail in the centre (separating one from the middle of the stairwell and the air) disappeared. Once down, I had seen quite enough of this ridiculously, and poorly designed building. The next work by Gaudi was the apartment block. I was disappointed to find little more than empty rooms, the whole experience was a little like walking around a new-build block of apartments, no atmosphere, and no exceptional views. The gothic-esque almost grotesque chimneys/roof terrace again afforded excellent views. Gaudi seemed far too and experimental architect, his designs not subtle enough, and really rather hideous - I enjoyed the views from his buildings far more than the buildings themselves. The Picasso Museum was small, but well thought out and allowed one to see how his style, as an artist, progressed - definitely a must-see! The Miro museum was equally well thought out and once again provided an insight into the development of the artist. Mount. Tibidabo, reached by a funicular railway (a short journey - under ten minutes) again offered spectacular views of Barcelona and beyond. A small cathedral at the summit provided further interest. I also took a cable car ride from the port, again more wonderful views, but this experience was a little dull, certainly wouldn?t repeat it! The Rablas were, like most of the city, packed with tourists. Various stalls provided points of ?interest?, it wasn?t seedy or rough as others had made out, but then I didn?t explore it in the evening. I wasn?t that impressed with Barcelona, I walked all around the little side streets, and not so little boulevards, and avenues, but somehow I didn?t warm to the place. Perhaps if I?d have stayed more centrally I would have had a different perspective on this city.
The shops:
Paseo de Gracia (the equivalent of a Bond St. meets Regent St. mongrel) offered one, Louis Vuitton, Yves Saint Laurent, Loewe, other designer boutiques and a Corte Ingles. No Gucci or Prada stores! I was advised to go to Gonzalo Comello, on the same road, for these brands. However, they only carried Prada Sport, and very limited Gucci pieces. I left, very unimpressed by this lack lustre shopping experience. Certainly not a world class shopper?s city like London!
The hotel:
As you may be aware, I had had a rather difficult time choosing between The Claris, The Ritz (seen from the outside only, and didn?t find the aspects appealing), and Hotel Arts; Hotel Arts was the chosen one.
Upon my arrival, the bell captain swiftly removed the luggage from the taxi and whisked it away. One enters a small lobby with two sofas, and a wonderful French delicatessen, ?Hediard?. Two lifts lead into the main lobby of the hotel. The reception area is stylish, if a little bland and international, a frosted glass chandelier looking most out of place. Receptionist was swift and efficient, and obliged my request for a sea view room (having only reserved a city view) on a high floor. To access the rooms, one leaves the lobby down a passageway which has various vases and cut flowers decorating it, to yet another lobby housing the six lifts. Lifts are lined in a burr wood, with the only mirrors being the doors. The corridors leading to the bedrooms are a little bland, lifted only by the occasional painting.
The bedroom comprised a small lobby with two double (single hanging) wardrobes, which led into a very long, but rather narrow room with a marvellous ?wide screen? picture window with views over the pool, marina, and ocean beyond. The bathroom, to my surprise, felt rather dated, with peachy cream sanitary-ware. No Bulgari toiletries (as noted in other reviews), but ones created ?exclusively for Hotel Arts? by some squiggled signatured company in ?Hong Kong and New York?. That said, they were of a relatively good standard. The bathtub was long and wide, but took a terribly long time to fill to a suitable depth. A toilet and bidet were contained in a screened off area, as was the shower cubicle. Unfortunately, as I was to discover, the seal on the shower door wasn?t as flush/tight as it should have been. The combination of two side jets and one fixed head led to one finding the entire bathroom flooded upon exiting the shower. I wondered whether, perhaps, I had left the door slightly ajar, however, when the bathroom was flooded yet again on the next day, I realised it was the seal at fault. The staff were very quick in mopping up the soaking floor, and replacing the towels that I had used in an effort to dry the floor. The bed was comfortable, but still had old fashioned sheets, not a more modern duvet. The control panel (for speakers, blind, and lights) beside the bed which incorporated an alarm clock was a very well thought out feature. One could wake up and at the touch of a button be greeted by ocean views! The Bang & Olufsen stereo was sadly not supplemented by speakers of comparable quantity, those provided were a little feeble and lacking depth of sound - a shame to waste such a great system on them. The television was a little awkwardly placed if one had wanted to watch it in bed. No video library rendered the thoughtfully provided VCR useless - does one really travel with video cassettes? DVDs perhaps, but not videos! A previous reviewer had commented on the ?cheap? fitted furniture. In fact, it is cleverly designed laminated furniture so as to blend in with the wallpaper, and not become a feature in itself. All cupboards were well lit. An iron was provided in the room, along with an ironing board, something I find a little strange for a deluxe property. There were other American school touches like this throughout the entire hotel, nothing wrong, just a little out of place.
The gardens were small, but well landscaped and incorporating terraces for bars, restaurants and a pool deck. The pool was ludicrously small for such a large property, the sun loungers started to free up in the late afternoon. Pool staff did not speak English of any standard - they did not understand when asked for ?towels? even when coupled with a drying gesture. Loungers were available in single or double sizes, and some had ?tents? enveloping them, presumably for those who prefer the shade. Complimentary bottles of chilled water, and apples were available, and even sun lotion and champagne at extra cost.
The lobby area behind the reception contained a small lounging area filled with sofas, deep seated leather chairs and a selection of coffee table books about fashion, architecture and travel. Lemon and minted water was provided in large jugs in the centre of this room. Off of here was the ?Bites? restaurant - a small menu, with lighter dishes that sounded very sickly. On the opposite side was a breakfast room cum lounge, containing more low sofas and deep chairs. A gas fire burnt night and day to serve as a focal point. In the summer this seems ridiculous, style for style?s sake, some function and logic would have been much appreciated. This room led into the bar, a small room with yet more low chairs and banquettes decorated with black and white photography of the Marx brothers. A small ?walk-in? humidor in one corner with the bar running along the length of the room. Drinks were steeply, and irregularly priced. A mojito (well made, and a generous size) was priced the same as a champagne cocktail at 16EUR - fine for the latter, but too much for the former. Martinis were all 13EUR. It seemed as if they had been rather lazy and thoughtless in pricing the drinks, almost with the attitude ?if you can afford to stay here, anything goes?! Service was prompt and efficient. I will note that the cigars were all cheaper than if shop bought in the UK, but I imagine this is something more to do with duty/taxes rather than the hotel?s generosity.
The restaurant where one took a buffet breakfast (the name has recently changed and is no longer that advertised in the room) had a large terrace with equally large and cumbersome pieces of wooden furniture. Service, as in the bar, was prompt and efficient, copious amounts of fresh orange juice, and good quality (but by no means the best) coffee was offered by waitresses who continually swanned around. The buffet itself has the usual breads, fruits and pastries. Most notable were the bagels (another American touch), Moet et Chandon champagne, and fresh strawberries with cream that were provided. 25EUR + 7% tax seems relatively good value when compared to other dining options at this property. I took breakfast on three out of five mornings, whilst it is not the best hotel breakfast I?ve had, it is one of the best, certainly recommended. I should also point out that ?Bites? offers an à la carte breakfast menu, but after one would?ve ordered orange juice and coffee, it is more cost effective to have had the buffet and had only a few things.
Arola had an excellent menu, however, on the evening I had decided to try it, I was informed (in the morning) that it was fully booked. If I had known it would be so popular I would?ve booked it upon my arrival, I feel that the receptionist should have not overlooked this when checking me into the hotel, at the very least there should be a note in the room advising very early booking. Instead I dined at the main restaurant (Enoteca Bombasti - or words to that effect!). Again I noted the weird pricing system. Starters ranged in price from 10EUR-28EUR (excluding caviar), and main/fish courses from 18-32EUR. The starters seem overpriced, and the main courses slightly underpriced, this is inconsequential, but looks strange on the menu. Food was well presented, if a little sickly at times, but all in all, an enjoyable meal. The poolside restaurant was very casual, and offered a light menu, pizzas, grilled meats, and suchlike; it was also of an equally high standard, with efficient and courteous service. I did not take any other meals at the hotel, but it all seemed to be pretty international fare.
Service was very American styled: ?It is my pleasure, have a nice day?, which was polite, if rather insincere, but this cannot really be criticised. The concierge was excellent, pointing out various places of interest and locating them on a map, as well as shopping suggestions - they cannot be blamed for Barcelona?s lack of quality shopping. When I requested the room to be serviced within the hour, they obliged, with smiles on their faces.
As a last note, the hotel lacked atmosphere, this was due to the guests staying there. Mainly brash Britons from Essex (read Louis Vuitton obsessives), and various sections of American society; ranging from older people ?on vacation? to terribly green corporate types; one man asked his colleague, after touching his trousers ?are they wool? followed by, ?am I dress okay??, how green! During the day people walked around the lobby in sandals, and shorts, which is acceptable given the casual and resort nature of the hotel. However, at 11PM I do not expect to see people walking barefoot (mainly Americans I am afraid) though the hotel. There was no grand or even stylish atmosphere, the hotel had a rather too corporate emphasis on things. If I were to return to the city (which I won?t be) I would stay there again as it was such a relief to escape the madness of the city centre and walk along the pleasant (if corpse like) beach.
More on Bilbao to follow shortly.....
Jul 26th, 2004, 09:31 AM
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Oh, and as a side note - people in Barcelona were dressed in every possible clothing combination imaginable. I could always pick out the Americans, not because they were badly dressed, but because they have a certain look. Similarly I could nearly always tell who were Spanish/Continental European and British.
Jul 26th, 2004, 11:12 AM
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Bilbao:
The airport taxi to the hotel cost around 30EUR including tip, my return journey this morning was 17EUR including the tip, no traffic on either route, so I assume the first taxi driver somehow conned me, but either way I am not out of pocket by a great deal, but I just thought I?d let you know that taxi drivers to have to be watched. If it had happened around the other way, with my return journey costing more then I would?ve complained, but as it stood I knew no better!
The sights and the shops:
If someone was asked to name a place associated with Bilbao, they would instantly say ?The Guggenheim?. This is a wonderfully designed building from an external perspective, although it is interesting to note that it is not lit at night - it would really benefit from some clever lighting scheme to further enhance the ?Guggenheim experience?. The interior, however, is a little disappointing with no great architectural uniqueness. The exhibits are ?interesting? at the least, and fascinating at best. Some artists? work shows depth, thought and passion, others is little more than a poorly conceived idea turned into some gormless object. I happened to touch a giant plastic house shaped cube (sculpture), the guard rushed over and inspected the area where my fingers had been. They take this art far too seriously, when in fact the artist injects so much humour into the work by means of their high prices. The admission is inexpensive so of course it is a must see. The art museum is also worth seeing, and it had more traditional art, and even paintings by the likes of El Greco and Cezanne - in some respects a more fulfilling visit than that to the Guggenheim. The town of Bilbao itself is very pleasant, smaller and far more intimate than Barcelona and a lot less touristy with more of a ?lived in? and ?local? feel. The old town is very pleasant and for a few euros, I had a wonderful tapas lunch with a small glass of white wine. It is a small city, one can walk along the river, crossing bridges, exploring side streets and find oneself back where they started in no time at all. They had a marvellous shop that stocked Dior, Prada, Paul Smith, Gucci, Neil Barret, Dolce e Gabbanna, Dsquared2 etcetera - far superior to any shop I came across in Barcelona! El Corte Ingles, once again is ever present. Lots of other little shops too with knowledgeable and helpful staff that speak acceptable English. I spent two out of my four days wandering around between shops and the river, very pleasant indeed.
On one day I got the urge to go to San Sebastian, sadly the concierge (more about the hotel later) was useless in organising a private car with driver, so I decided to brave public transport and take a bus. One goes to a booth to purchase tickets, seats are pre allocated. I had sat down on the first seat in the first row only to be asked (most politely may I add) to move by a charming Spanish couple who explained this system to me. I had two dreadful Scottish women behind me who did not stop talking throughout the entire one and a bit hours journey. Scenery was picturesque - autopistas contrasting with the mountains in the background. The walk from the bus station in San Sebastian was a brisk fifteen minute walk from the centre. It had a fabulously continental feel further enchanced by the fact that most of the tourists holidaying there were either Spanish or French, not an American or Brit in sight! Whilst I was there I had a cocktail at the West Maria Cristinia hotel - elegant with a touch of faded grandeur, I intend to return and stay here for a few nights. Little details such as marble with perfectly matched veins (fitted upwards of thirty years ago) stood out, as well as old fashioned charm and service - something Hotel Arts and the Sheraton lacked - this property had atmosphere. Also worth nothing - the tasting menu was only 40EUR per head for several courses and coffee afterwards; cocktails from 8EUR were a bargain. Its location by the river which gently flowed into the sea was equally charming. A walk all along the river, then by the beach all the way from one side of the ?croissette? to the other, then back on the bus to Bilbao. San Sebastian is a fabulous old fashioned seaside resort with character and dignity - a must see if you are in Bilbao for more than a couple of nights.
The hotel:
As I had a relatively longer time in Bilbao than Barcelona I decided to visit other hotels. Hotel Carlton - old fashioned, a little staid, but some original quality remained, not an high service property. Gran Hotel Domine seemed a little gloomy, and lacking in atmosphere, but is the only hotel in Bilbao that employs a permanent doorman. Hotel Miro is very small, but stylish, the bar served wonderful food and drinks, with views of the Guggenheim, and all dishes very reasonably priced. If I were to return, I?d stay at Miro or Gran Hotel Domine.
After pulling up in a taxi, and waiting a minute or so, no doorman emerged so I struggled into the hotel with my luggage, up a small flight of stairs and into the vast lobby. Not so vast in terms of floorspace, but some ten storeys high with a lofty atrium effect. After complaining that the swimming was not working, yet at booking I had been informed it was in operation, I was upgraded to an executive suite. This room comprised a large living room with a small suede sofa, undersized glass dining table, desk, corner unit with stereo, and a guest cloakroom. Off of this room, through sliding double doors was a large bedroom with a floor to ceiling window, towards the back was a double wardrobe housing the safe, and adjacent the bathroom. Bathroom had the usual twin vanities, separate toilet/bidet area, jacuzzi bath which was too short and narrow, and wet-room style shower on an unpolished marble slab. For a suite, I felt the bathroom was somehow not quite luxurious enough, and on the last day of my stay a terrible smell of drains was evident. The ventilation was not adequate, and like Hotel Arts the mirrors were not heated so one had to wait a while before they became operational again! Bed was extremely comfortable, with good selection of pillows and this time a duvet. Blinds, like Hotel Arts were fully electric; one could have a gauze to act as a screen from people in the street, or a black out lining down simultaneously. The entire room/living room was carpeted in a woven/plaid red/green effort - stylish, but impractical as already some of the loops had been caught. The living room should have had a wooden or marble floor, and the entrance lobby once again should not have been carpeted. The view from my window was a park in the distance and a large, but quite quiet building site in the foreground, when the work is completed (an underground car park) I?d imagine the view will have improved, but this did not cause any great inconvenience. A ?business centre? comprised a few coffee tables, chairs, and one computer with free, fast internet access. The gym had eight or so pieces of equipment and a tiny sauna in the changing rooms. The pool area was accessed through a sliding door, and looked down on to the street, quite why it wasn?t working is a mystery - the pool itself was an eighth full with water! The hotel has two restaurants, one is a café, and another a full service restaurant with menus developed by a michelin starred chef. The actual build quality throughout the hotel was distinctly lacking, with various fixtures not having been fitted perfectly.
I dined in the café one evening. Food was a little designerery, service was acheingly slow, and the staff were inexperienced. Prices were very steep when compared to say Hotel Miro where I enjoyed an excellent meal in a similar cafe/bar setting. Breakfast was a weird affair, tiny little dishes of poached eggs with mushrooms, only three different cheeses, and various fresh fruit. Bread was labelled as ?home-made toast?, how quaint. Service was again, a little clumsy. No champagne, or red berries to be seen.
Concierge was also inexperienced, having to make telephone calls for even the simplest set of directions or advice regarding restaurants, they lacked confidence.
Maid service was not up to scratch. Every evening, when I was dressing for dinner, the maid would knock on the door wanting to carry out turndown service (a full second room service was not offered), and she slipped a card through telling me to call the guest service centre when I was ready for the room to be turned down. I called, and upon my return several hours later, the room had not been touched! On the second day, I had left six used wine glasses on the table, I returned to find the same six wine glasses unwashed, untouched. On the third day the maid had removed all of the glasses, but had not bothered to replace them. When I asked for a second service that evening, it was not performed, but the glasses were replenished. Perhaps I am expecting too much, after all this is under half the price of Hotel Arts, but if an hotel is rated five stars, I expect five star service to match.
The building is in an highly contemporary style designed by a Mexican architect, it is hard to envisage how it can be refurbished in twenty or so years time - the style is far too radical and bold to lend itself to anything different to the interiors that are already there - I will be most interested to see how they cope when the current look becomes passé all too soon!
In conclusion, I?d never stay there again. Don?t dine there as the service is so appalling and the food not quite hot or fresh enough. It is cheap, but I believe the other hotels are even cheaper, Sheraton needs to get through the teething problems which really should not be persisting nearly a year after opening. I am writing to the MD about this hotel, and how it should be improved.
The airport taxi to the hotel cost around 30EUR including tip, my return journey this morning was 17EUR including the tip, no traffic on either route, so I assume the first taxi driver somehow conned me, but either way I am not out of pocket by a great deal, but I just thought I?d let you know that taxi drivers to have to be watched. If it had happened around the other way, with my return journey costing more then I would?ve complained, but as it stood I knew no better!
The sights and the shops:
If someone was asked to name a place associated with Bilbao, they would instantly say ?The Guggenheim?. This is a wonderfully designed building from an external perspective, although it is interesting to note that it is not lit at night - it would really benefit from some clever lighting scheme to further enhance the ?Guggenheim experience?. The interior, however, is a little disappointing with no great architectural uniqueness. The exhibits are ?interesting? at the least, and fascinating at best. Some artists? work shows depth, thought and passion, others is little more than a poorly conceived idea turned into some gormless object. I happened to touch a giant plastic house shaped cube (sculpture), the guard rushed over and inspected the area where my fingers had been. They take this art far too seriously, when in fact the artist injects so much humour into the work by means of their high prices. The admission is inexpensive so of course it is a must see. The art museum is also worth seeing, and it had more traditional art, and even paintings by the likes of El Greco and Cezanne - in some respects a more fulfilling visit than that to the Guggenheim. The town of Bilbao itself is very pleasant, smaller and far more intimate than Barcelona and a lot less touristy with more of a ?lived in? and ?local? feel. The old town is very pleasant and for a few euros, I had a wonderful tapas lunch with a small glass of white wine. It is a small city, one can walk along the river, crossing bridges, exploring side streets and find oneself back where they started in no time at all. They had a marvellous shop that stocked Dior, Prada, Paul Smith, Gucci, Neil Barret, Dolce e Gabbanna, Dsquared2 etcetera - far superior to any shop I came across in Barcelona! El Corte Ingles, once again is ever present. Lots of other little shops too with knowledgeable and helpful staff that speak acceptable English. I spent two out of my four days wandering around between shops and the river, very pleasant indeed.
On one day I got the urge to go to San Sebastian, sadly the concierge (more about the hotel later) was useless in organising a private car with driver, so I decided to brave public transport and take a bus. One goes to a booth to purchase tickets, seats are pre allocated. I had sat down on the first seat in the first row only to be asked (most politely may I add) to move by a charming Spanish couple who explained this system to me. I had two dreadful Scottish women behind me who did not stop talking throughout the entire one and a bit hours journey. Scenery was picturesque - autopistas contrasting with the mountains in the background. The walk from the bus station in San Sebastian was a brisk fifteen minute walk from the centre. It had a fabulously continental feel further enchanced by the fact that most of the tourists holidaying there were either Spanish or French, not an American or Brit in sight! Whilst I was there I had a cocktail at the West Maria Cristinia hotel - elegant with a touch of faded grandeur, I intend to return and stay here for a few nights. Little details such as marble with perfectly matched veins (fitted upwards of thirty years ago) stood out, as well as old fashioned charm and service - something Hotel Arts and the Sheraton lacked - this property had atmosphere. Also worth nothing - the tasting menu was only 40EUR per head for several courses and coffee afterwards; cocktails from 8EUR were a bargain. Its location by the river which gently flowed into the sea was equally charming. A walk all along the river, then by the beach all the way from one side of the ?croissette? to the other, then back on the bus to Bilbao. San Sebastian is a fabulous old fashioned seaside resort with character and dignity - a must see if you are in Bilbao for more than a couple of nights.
The hotel:
As I had a relatively longer time in Bilbao than Barcelona I decided to visit other hotels. Hotel Carlton - old fashioned, a little staid, but some original quality remained, not an high service property. Gran Hotel Domine seemed a little gloomy, and lacking in atmosphere, but is the only hotel in Bilbao that employs a permanent doorman. Hotel Miro is very small, but stylish, the bar served wonderful food and drinks, with views of the Guggenheim, and all dishes very reasonably priced. If I were to return, I?d stay at Miro or Gran Hotel Domine.
After pulling up in a taxi, and waiting a minute or so, no doorman emerged so I struggled into the hotel with my luggage, up a small flight of stairs and into the vast lobby. Not so vast in terms of floorspace, but some ten storeys high with a lofty atrium effect. After complaining that the swimming was not working, yet at booking I had been informed it was in operation, I was upgraded to an executive suite. This room comprised a large living room with a small suede sofa, undersized glass dining table, desk, corner unit with stereo, and a guest cloakroom. Off of this room, through sliding double doors was a large bedroom with a floor to ceiling window, towards the back was a double wardrobe housing the safe, and adjacent the bathroom. Bathroom had the usual twin vanities, separate toilet/bidet area, jacuzzi bath which was too short and narrow, and wet-room style shower on an unpolished marble slab. For a suite, I felt the bathroom was somehow not quite luxurious enough, and on the last day of my stay a terrible smell of drains was evident. The ventilation was not adequate, and like Hotel Arts the mirrors were not heated so one had to wait a while before they became operational again! Bed was extremely comfortable, with good selection of pillows and this time a duvet. Blinds, like Hotel Arts were fully electric; one could have a gauze to act as a screen from people in the street, or a black out lining down simultaneously. The entire room/living room was carpeted in a woven/plaid red/green effort - stylish, but impractical as already some of the loops had been caught. The living room should have had a wooden or marble floor, and the entrance lobby once again should not have been carpeted. The view from my window was a park in the distance and a large, but quite quiet building site in the foreground, when the work is completed (an underground car park) I?d imagine the view will have improved, but this did not cause any great inconvenience. A ?business centre? comprised a few coffee tables, chairs, and one computer with free, fast internet access. The gym had eight or so pieces of equipment and a tiny sauna in the changing rooms. The pool area was accessed through a sliding door, and looked down on to the street, quite why it wasn?t working is a mystery - the pool itself was an eighth full with water! The hotel has two restaurants, one is a café, and another a full service restaurant with menus developed by a michelin starred chef. The actual build quality throughout the hotel was distinctly lacking, with various fixtures not having been fitted perfectly.
I dined in the café one evening. Food was a little designerery, service was acheingly slow, and the staff were inexperienced. Prices were very steep when compared to say Hotel Miro where I enjoyed an excellent meal in a similar cafe/bar setting. Breakfast was a weird affair, tiny little dishes of poached eggs with mushrooms, only three different cheeses, and various fresh fruit. Bread was labelled as ?home-made toast?, how quaint. Service was again, a little clumsy. No champagne, or red berries to be seen.
Concierge was also inexperienced, having to make telephone calls for even the simplest set of directions or advice regarding restaurants, they lacked confidence.
Maid service was not up to scratch. Every evening, when I was dressing for dinner, the maid would knock on the door wanting to carry out turndown service (a full second room service was not offered), and she slipped a card through telling me to call the guest service centre when I was ready for the room to be turned down. I called, and upon my return several hours later, the room had not been touched! On the second day, I had left six used wine glasses on the table, I returned to find the same six wine glasses unwashed, untouched. On the third day the maid had removed all of the glasses, but had not bothered to replace them. When I asked for a second service that evening, it was not performed, but the glasses were replenished. Perhaps I am expecting too much, after all this is under half the price of Hotel Arts, but if an hotel is rated five stars, I expect five star service to match.
The building is in an highly contemporary style designed by a Mexican architect, it is hard to envisage how it can be refurbished in twenty or so years time - the style is far too radical and bold to lend itself to anything different to the interiors that are already there - I will be most interested to see how they cope when the current look becomes passé all too soon!
In conclusion, I?d never stay there again. Don?t dine there as the service is so appalling and the food not quite hot or fresh enough. It is cheap, but I believe the other hotels are even cheaper, Sheraton needs to get through the teething problems which really should not be persisting nearly a year after opening. I am writing to the MD about this hotel, and how it should be improved.
Jul 26th, 2004, 11:38 AM
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Welcome back, m_kingdom2. Thank you for posting your trip report. I couldn't help chuckling when I read about you taking a bus (with the "commoners"
& lugging your own bags into the hotel. I guess you survived!
& lugging your own bags into the hotel. I guess you survived!
Jul 26th, 2004, 12:16 PM
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Welcome back. I must say the forum was less interesting without your input!
On balance would you say that your destinations were a good choice for your trip? Or do you feel there ae other destinations which would have been preferrable? (I mean cities, not hotels).
On balance would you say that your destinations were a good choice for your trip? Or do you feel there ae other destinations which would have been preferrable? (I mean cities, not hotels).
Jul 26th, 2004, 12:21 PM
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I think I did the trip round the right way - Barcelona with so many things to see and do first, then Bilbao which allowed a less frenetic pace.
I might have gone to Madrid, but I have been there so many countless times I have no desire to return for a long time. I might have stayed one less night in Barcelona and stopped over in Bilbao for 2 nights then 3 more in San Sebastian. I'm anxious to do San Sebastian and Biarritz in one trip sometime soon!
I might have gone to Madrid, but I have been there so many countless times I have no desire to return for a long time. I might have stayed one less night in Barcelona and stopped over in Bilbao for 2 nights then 3 more in San Sebastian. I'm anxious to do San Sebastian and Biarritz in one trip sometime soon!
Jul 26th, 2004, 12:55 PM
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"...had a fabulously continental feel further enchanced by the fact that most of the tourists holidaying there were either Spanish or French, not an American or Brit in sight! Whilst I was there.... I intend to return and stay here for a few nights."
What? And ruin that "fabulously continental feel" for everyone, yourself included ?
How awful that you should have found so much negativity on what was supposed to be a vacation. And the 'brash Britons from Essex' on top of it all. I'm surprised that you didn't pack it up right there and then and go back home. Too bad that you had to spend a vacation this way. Hope your next one will be more pleasant, though I'm sure that theres lots more to be found that won't be to your taste or liking unfortunately.
Jul 26th, 2004, 01:04 PM
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When I talk about these Britions - it is the vile essex sort, and flashy nouveaus that I detest. It is the pushy nouveau Americans that I detest too - most are not like this!
I thoroughly enjoyed my holiday, I'm sure you realise that. Sadly, nothing is ever perfect, I can find fault with virtually anything and everything. Barcelona was just too touristy for my liking, I'd imagine that I would've preferred it if I was there in the fall or winter, but I wasn't so I left unenamoured with the city!
I thoroughly enjoyed my holiday, I'm sure you realise that. Sadly, nothing is ever perfect, I can find fault with virtually anything and everything. Barcelona was just too touristy for my liking, I'd imagine that I would've preferred it if I was there in the fall or winter, but I wasn't so I left unenamoured with the city!
Jul 26th, 2004, 01:09 PM
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Great hotels should have a fantastic atmosphere - Claridge's in London has a wonderful atmosphere. Hotel Grande Bretagne is the best example of this - a lobby always bustling with locals, warmth and hospitality oozing throughout. Hotel Arts, and The Sheraton lacked any real atmosphere or warmth. Arts was posey and terribly nouveau - fancy wearing swimwear in the evening, no idea, so very very green! The Sheraton was terribly quiet, and if you've got views of the building site - what chance do you have?
Jul 26th, 2004, 01:23 PM
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Add me to the list of San Sebastian fans. I just discovered it on my trip in early July. I am still kicking myself that I did not stay at least one night 
I will definatly go back for a few days within the next 12 months. Also liked Biarritz, but prefered SS. Next time, consider renting a car, as there are many wonderful towns in the region.
Thanks for the detailed account of the hotels. I get the impression that you were less than completely satisfied?
regards Ger
I will definatly go back for a few days within the next 12 months. Also liked Biarritz, but prefered SS. Next time, consider renting a car, as there are many wonderful towns in the region.Thanks for the detailed account of the hotels. I get the impression that you were less than completely satisfied?
regards Ger
