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Old May 15th, 2007, 05:23 PM
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luberon driving question

I have been reading more info on this site. Now I am a little concerned about driving time. I have taken Stu's itinerary and pretty much plan to follow it.
Here's my question: On one day we will leave Aix and drive to Joucas. We plan to see Jas de Bouffan upon leaving. Does anyone know how long this will take. Then we are on our way possibly stopping at Silvacane Abbey or Garden Val Joanis before reaching Lourmarin where I think we should stop and see now. Then thru Bonnieux and on to Joucas. Is this too much to do? How long of a day will this be?
The next day we will visit Luberon villages. Is it too much to see Gordes, Menerbes, Bonnieux, Apt and Roussillon in one day. I even thought of the villages des bories as well.
The following day we plan to take Stu's drive towards Sault seeing Montbrun, Gorges de la Nesque, Venasque. Would it be a better idea to concentrate on the villages of the first day and divide them into two days?
Stu, since you have done all of this, will we have a really long day?
Thanks
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Old May 16th, 2007, 06:27 AM
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ttt
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Old May 16th, 2007, 06:52 AM
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You might want to map it out on www.viamichelin.com to get an idea about distances and driving times.

I'm also using a good chunk of Stu's itinerary, which begins this weekend.
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Old May 16th, 2007, 06:55 AM
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Lay out your route on www.mappy.com to get an idea of how long your drives will take.

I'd say if you insist on visiting 5 villages in a day, you're missing the point of Provence, its laidback, take-it-easy, enjoy-life lifestyle.
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Old May 16th, 2007, 07:43 AM
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"Is it too much to see Gordes, Menerbes, Bonnieux, Apt and Roussillon in one day. I even thought of the villages des bories as well."

Ouch. While all close enough to each other, I think you'll find this far more than you want to do in one day. Just as an example, Roussillon is best viewed by walking uphill through the village to a viewing table at the highest point in town. I've done it twice and would say it takes perhaps 40 minutes each way from the municipal parking lot. That's without stopping too long to photograph the beautiful coloured walls and doors or browsing in any of the intriguing shops. If you are there on a crowded day, you'll find getting in and out of the parking lots slower.

Do you have a special reason for including Apt on your list? I think it's the least appealing of the various places you're considering that day.

I know how you feel, though: so many wonderful places to see and probably not enough time.

Anselm
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Old May 16th, 2007, 07:51 AM
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I have to agree, 5 villages in one day is a lot and you will miss a great deal of what Provence has to offer,IMO!

Rousillon itself could take awhile.
Walk along the ochre cliffs, spend some time in the cemetary, walk along the cobbled streets of town. Stop and read the proclamation from CDG on the "town hall".

I would also recommend you try and land in one of the villages during a market day.
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Old May 16th, 2007, 07:51 AM
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Thanks to all of you. I will rethink this. Have to hurry up though as we fly out Sunday and will leave home Friday.
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Old May 16th, 2007, 08:27 AM
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Mimipam - have a great trip. I agree that you'll want to relax and enjoy the time (and perhaps cut back on the number of villages). The area is gorgeous and worth exploring at a leisurely pace. If you happen to go to Venasque and are there for dinner, I would suggest stopping at the Auberge de la Fontaine (right at the top of the one street that goes through the town, by the fountain). We were there in the fall for our honeymoon, and had lined up cooking classes with the chef (and owner) Christian. The classes were great (chefs do seem to double as philosophers), and the dinners served was fantastic (we ate there two different nights). The cheese course was incredible in its own right - an amazing selection; the homemade ribbon pasta with sauteed fois gras, the truffle ice cream for dessert, the stuffed pigeon... I could go on, but you get the picture. The town itself is small and beautiful, but won't take you long to enjoy.
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Old May 16th, 2007, 09:01 AM
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>>On one day we will leave Aix and drive to Joucas. We plan to see Jas de Bouffan upon leaving. Does anyone know how long this will take. Then we are on our way possibly stopping at Silvacane Abbey or Garden Val Joanis before reaching Lourmarin where I think we should stop and see now. Then thru Bonnieux and on to Joucas. Is this too much to do? How long of a day will this be?<<

I don't know what Jas de Bouffan is or how long it takes to visit, when it's open etc. Assuming whatever it is, if you conclude your visit there by 11:00, you should not have trouble getting to Jucas in time to check in, get adapted, rest, etc. If you leave the Aix area at 11, you should get to Silvacane by noon at the latest - probably sooner. My Mighelin Guide says it does not close for lunch, so you should be finished touring by 1:00. If you choose to visit the Chateau in Lourmarin, that could impact your schedule. In May & June the Michelin Guide says that there are tours at 11, 2:30, 3:30, 4:30 & 5:30. If you get to Lourmarin around 1:30, tour the town, and then take the 2:30 tour, you should get to Bonnieux around 4:15 or so and to Joucas by 5:00. However, shops will be closed at 1:30 & it won't be the best time to visit - but still - it's a cute village. Perhaps have a quick lunch there (you may need to leave Aix a little earlier to do this).

If you do not visit the Chateau at Lourmarin or you are ahead of my estimated schedule, you should be able to get to Bonnieux by 3:00 or so. If you make it to Bonnieux by 4, I would visit it them - which will save some time from tomorrow's Luberon exploration.

>>The next day we will visit Luberon villages. Is it too much to see Gordes, Menerbes, Bonnieux, Apt and Roussillon in one day. I even thought of the villages des bories as well.<<

I would not plan to visit Gordes on this day. Joucas is next to Gordes, and you can just hop over there if you happen to arrive into Joucas earlier than planned yesterday, of if you have time left in the day on any other day you're at Joucas. Early mornings or later afternoons are the best times to visit Gordes anyway. You could even have dinner at one of the restaurants near Gordes (Estellan, Mas Tourteron, etc) and explore Gordes before dinner. Don't forget to take the walk down to the wash basin that's described in my itinerary.

I agree with Anselme about Apt. If anything, drop Apt & add Saignon.

You could, IMO, visit all these 5 villages (with Saignon instead of Apt) in one day if you get an early start & have breakfast (very expensive) in Gordes around 8:00 or so. Explore the town after breakfast, and then follow my driving route past Oppedde (don't miss), then Menerbes, then Lacoste, Bonnieux, Roussillon, Goult & then back to Joucas. However, if you like to dawdle while shopping (Gordes & Roussillon are the only two with more than just a couple of shops), and you want to have a 1 1/2 hr lunch (Le Fournil in Bonnieux) then this day will be pretty full. I would try real hard to visit Bonnieux on the prevoius day and Gordes to/from one of your other excursions (tomorrow - see below). Do not short change just driving around in the Luberon - it's quite beautiful. Follow the route that's in my itinerary. We've vacationed for over 6 weeks in the Luberon & I love just driving around aimlessly. I also love about a 45 min sightseeing drive on the way to dinner.


>>The following day we plan to take Stu's drive towards Sault seeing Montbrun, Gorges de la Nesque, Venasque.<<

I think you will have time today to visit Gordes or anything you missed yesterday. In June '03, some friends were visiting us when we were staying in a Gite west of Uzes. Wew started the morning at the l'Isle sur la Sorgue market, had a sit-down lunch there, drove to Gordes just to look at the fabulous view from the approach, then took my lavender route through Sault & Montbrun. We stopped, took pictures, wandered in the Lavender fields, & saundered through Sault. However, we deviated a little & did not return via the Gorges de la Nesque - we actually took a longer route at the base of Mt Ventoux, past Vaison, and all the way back to the Uzes area. We arrived at our Gite by 6:30 or so We stopped in Brantes for a coffee & pottie break along the way. So I think you can accomplish this drive in an easy half-day - which leaves time for a Gordes/Roussillon visit afterwards.

Stu Dudley
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Old May 16th, 2007, 10:58 AM
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Thanks Stu and everyone. Now I am thinking I will forego Jas de Bouffan (Cezanne's home about 10 min from Aix). I cannot even find info if it is still open. It was for the celebration last year.
I think we will just go on and leave Aix and maybe drive on to Lourmarin and try to see the chateau unless we go first to Abbaye de Silvacane (which Michelin gives **). So we could do this and then to Lourmarin skipping the Chateau. From Lourmarin we will go to Bonnieux and see this village. Than on to Joucas where we stay.
The following day I am still working on, but as I read this site I think maybe I would start in Roussillon since it could take some time. Then take Stu's itinerary sort of in reverse. (What about this Stu? Is there any reason to go one way over the other?) Maybe Gordes will fit in the next day or in the evening.
Sorry to be so much trouble here. I really do appreciate all the help.
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Old May 16th, 2007, 11:31 AM
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mimipam, just a note about the hours at Abbaye de Silvacane: it looks like it is open from 10 to 6 every day from May 28th to September 30th. Between October 1st and May 27th, it closes for an hour between 1 and 2.

You can take a look on their website:

http://silvacane.monuments-nationaux.fr/fr

Click on "Les visites et les tariffs" for their hours of operation.

If Romanesque architecture interests you, I hope you can fit it into your schedule. It's a beautiful site and, unlike the Abbaye de Sénanque, you can wander all around it without being on a escorted tour.

Anselm
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Old May 16th, 2007, 12:35 PM
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>>Between October 1st and May 27th, it closes for an hour between 1 and 2.<,

Looks like my Michelin Guide is wrong - it says it's open April - Sept 9-7, closes for 1 hr for lunch the remainder of the year. Thanks Anselme.

I would try to visit the Chateau at Lourmarin - it might be the only chateau you'll have a chance to visit on this trip. In the list of tour times on my prior post, I only listed ones that started after you plan to arrive from the Cezanne place. There is also a morning tour at 10AM - however check their web site (if any) - if my Michelin can be wrong about Silvacane it can be wrong about Lourmain.

The Luberon Drive in reverse is fine - one direcion isn't any better than another.



Stu Dudley

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