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Long trip report from too-short trip to Sorrento/ Capri!

Long trip report from too-short trip to Sorrento/ Capri!

Old Apr 30th, 2004, 12:57 PM
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Long trip report from too-short trip to Sorrento/ Capri!

Hi Fodorites! Well, my friend and I returned Tuesday from our quick trip to Italy. My trip report:

Day 1: Thursday - rented car at the airport (Fiumicino) and drove straight to Sorrento. I know many advised against it, but we couldn't resist the car rental, and I am so glad we did it! I loved driving in Italy...and do think I'm an Italian driver at heart. We decided on a whim (advantage of having a car!) to swing by Vesuvius on our drive to Sorrento, and followed the signs to drive up to the guarded parking lot where you can hike up the path to the top. We did the hike - my friend still in her business suit from the workday prior! - and enjoyed the great view of the bay. We then continued on our drive to Sorrento, where we got stuck in a bit of horrid traffic approaching Meta, but we didn't mind because the view out of our windows was spectacular. Upon arrival in Sorrento, we checked into our hotel - Bellevue Syrene. Oh, what a dream. We were unable to get a sea-view room, but the view from the flower-covered terrace, lobby, and restaurant were just breathtaking. Our room was nice, very large - loft style - with its own balcony over the courtyard. The staff there are incredible - especially Franco! And the location is great - right on the cliff overlooking the water, but only a short walk (10 minutes?) through great shopping to Piazza Tasso. We parked our car at the hotel for the night - 18 euro/ night, but not so bad in comparison to NYC.

Day 2: Friday - hopped in the car for the drive down the Amalfi Coast. Again, loved having a car and driving on the Coast! We took the Autostrada down to the exit for Vetrie (sp?), where we started on the Coast road. From there, we drove to Amalfi, where we detoured up into Ravello...what a beautiful view! Along that road is a cute little ceramics shop - right on a curve. That was our favorite ceramics shop on the trip. From there, back to the coast road, we continued on toward Positano. Alas, the coast road was CLOSED between Amalfi and Positano due to rock slides. So, not only did we drive on the coast road, we also drove in reverse on the coast road! Ultimately, we detoured through Agerola - so high up on the mountains along the coast that we thought we were in heaven. Back over the mountains to Meta, we took the road from there to Positano. Spent a few hours in Positano where we shopped and wandered around. Finding parking was no problem - used one of the garages for 2-3 hours for 4 euro. From Positano, we drove back to Sorrento, where we had a wonderful dinner that night. The aforementioned wonderful Franco from the hotel recommended Il Buco (in Sorrento on Via Rampe Marina Piccola) - and it was FABULOUS. From there, we hit the nightclub Mathilde, right on the square.

Day 3: Saturday - woke up late to check out, and return our rental car to the Avis desk in Sorrento. Wonderful Franco again to our rescue. He was OFF DUTY, but helped deliver us to the Avis office, and ensured we were on our way safely to catch the ferry to Capri. Did I mention how great Franco was? Ferry to Capri...where we were picked up at the port by our hotel driver to arrive at the Caesar-Augustus. Again, fabulous hotel recommended by Fodorites! For the poster who said 'you will want to weep when you see the pool' - I think I wanted to weep at every corner in this incredibly beautiful hotel. Very classy staff (loved Franco, Cristian, and Dylan !), gorgeous views, gorgeous interiors, and INCREDIBLE pool. Our room was sea-view, with a huge balcony (this was a 'standard' sea-view room!). Bruno and Alfonso at the restaurant were also wonderful. Definitely more of a honeymoon hotel, and quiet this time of year, but we loved it just the same. We lazed at the hotel in the afternoon, had a wonderful dinner at the restaurant there, and wandered up to Anacapri that evening; a short walk (5 minutes?) from the hotel to the main square in Anacapri. Those who said Anacapri was quiet at night are right - but there's still nightlife at the Underground!

Day 4: Sunday - Ah, Capri! We awoke late (again!), and ultimately wandered around Anacapri, took the lift to Monte Solaro (what an amazing view from the top!), and took the Fodor's recommended walk back down the hill. Beautiful! We returned to our hotel and then travelled down to Capri town via the hotel's courtesy shuttle. In Capri we did much window shopping and very little actual shopping, but we definitely found Anacapri more quaint and 'real' than Capri town - much too much like Madison avenue, with prices to match! A very cute town, though, and we had dinner there. That evening it was off to Capri town for Aneme e Coro (nightclub) which was empty ! so we took the bus back to Anacapri for another evening dancing at the Underground.

Day 5: Monday - again, awoke late, and sadly checked out of the lovely hotel. Left our luggage there to do some more shopping in Anacapri - our favorite store was Kon-Tiki, along the walk between the square in Anacapri and Villa San Michele. This store had beautiful, unique jewelry, handbags, etc. We loved it! After shopping, we took the 900 steps of the Scala Fenicia down to Marina Grande - what a walk, and another amazing view - and we hopped a boat for the trip round the island. In the early evening, we grabbed our luggage, and then a ferry to Naples...cab to train station...then train back to Roma...to arrive late at our disaapointing Vatican City hotel (Starhotel Michaelangelo - a let-down after the Bellevue Syrene and Caesar-Augustus...staff was actually rude to us! And I promise, young though we might be, we are very polite americans!)

Day 6: Tuesday - awoke to a nice breakfast at the hotel, and walked the short (<5 minutes) to St. Peter's for 9 AM mass. A fitting end experience for our trip. After mass, picked up some religious gifts for family at home, headed back to our hotel, and grabbed a cab to Fiumicino (47 euro for trip). Great duty-free shopping there, then sadly, we departed Italy.

Can't wait to return!
happymz is offline  
Old Apr 30th, 2004, 01:32 PM
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Happy, Great trip report. I stayed at the Hotel Syrene and Casear Augustus and loved them both. The rooms and views are outstanding. I felt very pampered by the staff as well.

I had lunch at Casear Augustus after climbing from Capri up to Anacapri, and while I was starving, I know the food the hotel served was outstanding. I can still taste it to this day and still re-live my memories from there.

Like you I am ready to return. Luckily, in two weeks I will return to Italy but this time to Venice and Milan.

When you return and need some other hotel recommendations, let me know. I have a few others like these two.

Gail
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Old Apr 30th, 2004, 01:38 PM
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Thanks for the report Happymz! We loved Bellevue Syrene too, and the rest of your trip sounded fantastic as well. Thanks for jogging my memory a little about Capri, as my in-laws will be there in a few weeks and were looking for some suggestions. Trish
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Old Apr 30th, 2004, 01:45 PM
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Good for you! I am glad you had fun!
I love Capri too, now I want to have dinner at your hotel there. Thanks for the report.
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Old Apr 30th, 2004, 04:23 PM
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wonderful fun -- glad you rented the car, aren't you? We loved driving in Italy, even the Amalfi coast roads!
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