ooh i look forward to tomorrow

hmmm know that cheese guy you are talking about, it is good eh!

Thanks for sharing this.

What a swell little report. We leave for London in early July. Borough market is at the very top of my list.

Great start, cant wait for more!

thanks, can't wait for Puglia!

Great report. You hit all the highlights giving us a great quick read and a feel for your trip.

Oh-- p.s. on Borough Market-- I think they're only open Thurs thru Sat. Also-- their goods do go beyond England/UK-- but we were mostly interested in the most local products.

ON TO LECCE….

Train from Rome to Lecce—5 hours—and I can tell you that we both feel that the time has come to ride only in first class for journeys this long! I had read that, for this fast train, first class was not much different from 2nd class. This is somewhat true—but what I noticed on all of the trains we took was that 2nd class was ALWAYS fully booked. I’m talking center aisle just filled with luggage so you couldn’t walk through the cars. And this was in early May! So next trip—only first class.(ok.. I'm getting old... I admit it...)

We really liked Lecce. It’s a town that it’s nice to settle into. It’s such a mixture of styles and people. We were turned off at first in the more modern section of town, but grew to love all of Lecce’s neighborhoods. You find the most baroque style imaginable inside the many churches—and then almost (greek?? Turkish??) style fortresses… a roman amphitheater, then ugly modern block-style buildings. Understated, but sometimes overwhelming as you stop and look. The town sneaks up on you—-each turn down a quiet street finds another treasure.

Speaking of treasures—it is the ‘Ciceri e Tria’ that we will remember most!! Our favorite version was at 'Alle Due Corte'. This is a pasta that you could bury yourself in, and die happy. Thick noodles, half of them boiled and half fried until chewey & crispy at the same time. Tossed with chickpeas and a little oil so that it makes a sauce of itself that is thick and creamy and worth a trip to Puglia!! The house wine here was unbelievable . 2 pasta, 2 meat, ½L wine, water and 2 espresso= 38E.

Stumbled through town and an hour later found ourselves at the recommended “Natale” for gelato and a smile. They are just so kind and proud of their product. This is quality gelato that’s perfect in every way. Not too sweet—as so often they can be. They always slip just a little tip of a new flavor to try on the top of your cone. Nice touch.

Will not recommend our B&B Centro Storico. Perfect location and beautiful room with high, arched ceilings. But the furniture is falling apart and the roof with a little view has disgusting plastic furniture that nobody would want to sit on.

Our B&B did come with little cards that were good for breakfast at the central square “Cin Cin” which we just loved. This seems to be the hangout for locals as well as tourists. Super coffee at a reasonable price. Our favorite “pasticciotto” which is the local pastry… get it here first. You won’t be sorry—especially in the a.m. when it’s slightly warm. Flaky delicious crust surrounds a cream in the middle that, to me, had a slightly citrus flavor. (though I asked and they said no citrus… but my Italian isn’t perfect!) Starting the day with the perfect cappuccino and pasticciotto… I will remember this about Lecce!

It was my birthday, and DH arranged for a ‘cooking class’ at restaurant “Piccola Casa” which was really fun—but not exactly a cooking class. This is a Tuscan restaurant in the heart of Puglia…it’s fairly new and they seem to do very well!! (maybe they feel they can get good Puglian cooking at their mama’s house!??) We showed up a couple of hours before they opened and the sweet, Tuscan owner showed us how to make pasta.. and just pasta. We then enjoyed it with a delicious duck sauce, champagne, amazing local wine, fried bread, 5 other kinds of breads, maile with prune&onion chutney, great dessert & coffee and more. The lesson with dinner was 40Epp. It was a fun and delicious birthday!

Rented a car and drove out to the “Reserva La Cisene” park for some birdwatching. (Directly E.) Stopped at a farmhouse “la Poeta Contadino” that we spotted off the highway along the way and had some outstanding food . Lovely setting outside looking over the wildflower covered field of olive trees.

This night, we discovered the delightful cheese ‘schmorza’ – - where have you been all my life?? Melt it under a big fire over just about anything, and you’re in heaven.

LECCE TO TRICASE—SOUTH

Stopped along the way in Corigliano at a slow food spot, ‘Olo Kalo” which was quite good. Their Ciceri e tria is very different from what I’d had—more like ‘In Brodo”… but delicious.

Absolutely loved our simple Masseria Agriturismo Uccio in Tricase. No pool and nothing fancy, but the white bedding and modern fixtures mix artfully with the ancient building. Super comfy. Great hosts who brought us fresh peas from the farm. Use of bicycles. Gorgeous landscape. A fantastic church next door (you could hear the bells, and sometimes singing.) This church is way out of town in the country -- would love to hear that story.

The owner put a really nice bunch of typed info in the rooms—and he recommended ‘La Ficarigna” 6 miles away in Specchia. We found it (thank you garmin!) and it was about 9:30 and it was pretty empty. We were nervous.. but by the time we left at midnight, they were completely full. They are known for a pasta flambé (forget the name)and we were worried it would be ho-hum and just for show—but this was a dish we will dream about for a long time. A huge, huge wheel of Grana Padano cheese is set afire with liquor and stirred to pull off the cheese. A hot cream sauce is added to the wheel and stirred into the cheese to make the sauce. Cheesy, delicious and worth a trip just for this pasta. Delicious house wine. Fantastic and fresh salad. Just a delicious meal.

Had a very good and very local lunch in Triggiano “A Casa Da Nona” where, on a Sunday, there were children running wild (in a good way) and several families were enjoying dinner together in this very small place. Classic Puglian oriccette w/palpetine, really good grilled meats, rustic barley bread, fried bread balls, organic local wine , coffee, etc. (27E) Down here, we are finding that English is rarely spoken—so bring your phrase books!

Drove over to the gorgeous coast. The roads are good and, being May, not at all crowded. Stress-free driving— - this is pretty rare in Italy. Wanted to soak in the waters at Cesarea Terme but were only able to sniff their sulfur. Perched on the edge of the sea—we liked this little town—but sadly, the baths are closed on Sundays. Took the long way home, driving along the aqua waters to the very bottom of the heel and then back. Gorgeous, peaceful and memorable.

Tomorrow we move on to Truli Land…. But signing off for today.

Hi Kawh sounds like lecce was on the whole quite good- we are off there today while u are up here for trulli!!

be sure to grab some of the sugared almond nuts of the guy in alberobello

Good report kawh, our style of travel is similar I think. Some good eating, leisurely driving, enjoying the social aspect of the cities but also the quiet beauty of the countryside.
Btw what is palpetine?

Enjoy the trullis, and I am looking forward to the rest of your report.

Loving this so much!! Cant wait to hear more!

Great report! We took the cooking class also and I have re-created at home most of what we did when with Chef Andrea. Food is a good reason for travel isn't it

Enjoying your report and adding more places to eat in the Fall onto my list.

HGOO1- no-- we are now home in sebastopol, california. this is all a post-jet-lag memory! missed the nuts... ah, well.
if you are in lecce now-- make sure to make a reservation if you want to go to the recommended 'Le Zie' as we just went by early and thought we'd get in but completely booked for the whole night.

sundried-- maybe it's spelled polpettine-- little tiny meatballs using various meats-- whatever is local.

luvto-- i thought andrea did a fantastic job. i don't know how he keeps up his patience and enthusiasm with so many different levels of cooks. i enjoyed learning the history and science of the cooking-- and that it was totally hands-on.

OUR LOVELY TRULLO FARM AND ANOTHER COOKING CLASS…

Drove to our trullo just outside of Ceglie Messapica. (Trullo Casedd through airbnb) For a moment we were turned off—because this ancient trullo has a little makeshift homedepot-type shade just outside. We get it now—this is where real people live—people who can’t afford designer awning set-ups!

This place is fantastic! The owners met us there (they live elsewhere but farm the land with their parents) and proudly showed us around the farm—-the fava crop, fruit trees (we picked cherries) and the small vineyard which their parents were trimming. The trullo was big and roomy but cool and cozy with half its kitchen inside and half its kitchen from the outside. It felt like home from the moment we entered and was DH’s favorite place we stayed. The owners informed us that they wanted to bring us dinner for our 2nd night and we eagerly agreed. Oh—did I mention it had a WASHING machine?? Man, we put that to good use.

We blindly headed into Ceglie Messapica and fell in love with the place. Every corner is a blind corner. It’s just small and lovely. One of our favorite little towns to get lost wandering around in. Only wish we could have spent more time there.

Had no food ideas for this town – and followed our noses to ‘Arrosteria Borgo Antico.’ I think that translates as ‘Roast Meat Heaven.’ This tiny place serves only meat—no pasta or pizza—and they do it right. We had heard that Puglia was known for their amazing roast meats—but hadn’t really tried much of it. This was worth the wait. We put ourselves in the chef’s hands and he recommended a N.Y. Steak (really—in Italy??) for my hubbie. I thought….” Oh no.. this is going to cost us a fortune. Ah well—.” Wrong!

This was the steak of a lifetime. Huge. I mean width, length, girth. It would not fit as a carry-on !! Seriously, though, it was at least 1 ½ pounds and cooked to perfection. Easily the best steak we’ve ever had. I had the local cut of pork which, I think, was from around the neck? Scrumptious. This was preceded with amazing antipasti and crazy-good charred roast potatoes. A liter of great wine. And they do NOT have espresso… the meal must be followed by lemoncello and grappa. Total was 35E. The chef came to check on us several times. He is obviously proud of his product. Posed for a quick picture by the wood-fire oven after. Not a word of English spoken.A delicious meal followed by a walk through the tiny dark maze of streetways.


Cooked up leftover steak and pork and bread (too late to shop—so asked last eve if we could please take the virtually untouched bread left in our basket and they packed it all neatly for us) for breakfast at our little trullo farm. Took off to explore.

Lovely drives through stone-walled narrow streets. A time or two, Garmin sent us through some fields with just tractor marks (oops—later realized that it was set for pedestrian-mode!) and what a gorgeous area.

Ended up in beautiful little Martina Franca armed with no less than 5 restaurant names and each one (that we could find) was closed!!! Here we had the worst meal of our trip at the busy but horrible ‘Agroalimentare Pace’ whose menu states that they use all local ingredients etc etc—but we affectionately refer to it now as ‘the cat food place.’ ‘nuf said.

On through more tiny streets, vineyards, pastures and dotted with ancient trulli to Alberobello and its amazing, but Disney-like tourist zone with each store featuring souvenir jingle-jangles just like the store before it and the ones after it. Yet, even with the touristy patina and the all sights and sounds of squealing sugared-up school kids jamming the streets, the place holds its magic. In the newer part of the city, the streets were filling with older gentlemen strolling, at the bars and in the little park. Are all the women at home preparing amazing Puglian feasts for their families??

Speaking of...Had to get back home because our Trullo owners were coming over with dinner. They arrived with big smiles—with food burning hot from the wood oven. She had made 3 kinds of fugazza-- perfectly chewey, crispy and burnt at the edges— some eggplant parm, and a calzone with a very, very strong (and underappreciated by us) cheese. He had 2 bottles of wine (both adorably sealed in recycled water bottles) from his vineyard—and looked every bit as if he had just come from the field. A feast we won’t forget.

I wanted to get to our cooking class and dinner at Il Frantoio tonight—but must stop for now.
Will continue tomorrow. Sorry this is getting so long!!

Enjoying your report. Thanks.

Not long enough kawh! This is bringing back many great memories. The south is so specially charming in its own "time warp " sort of way.

Maybe it is very poor. But it's traditional way of life is something us North American city folk can not remember and can hardly comprehend and it is so exquisitely preserved here.

Let's hope at least some of it survives, that we visitors can walk gently, and contribute something to its economy without taking too much in return.

Oh , mushy I know. I can't help it, hope you love it as much as we did.

ah love the sound of Ceglie Messapica, we are off there today so might just seak out that steak place

Agree re alberobello- it does retain its Charm despite the tourism.

oh and think you would like locorotondo, it sounds similar. Follow your noises their too and you will have some yummy pasta

ahh apologies i just read the bit about you being back in California!! oops!! thought you were still here now

Would love to hear about your dinner at Il Frontaio!

Sounds like you had a great trip! Thank so much for sharing!

The trullo looks fabulous! was it comfortable?

jub not sure if your meant me?

Anyway if you did- yep it is super super comfy. We have had the best sleep ever and the day beds are a real treat. Today apart from a mini trip to the beach we are just enjoying the villa. Its not the biggest villa but it is perfect for us and the day room gets flooded with light and is a great place to relax. Its a really pretty setting and you can see the blue sea too which is nice The outside space is so pretty and nice to enjoy too

are this was meant for Kawh!! opps sorry for the description of mine!! Sorry Kawh/Jubilada!

Jubilada - in case you meant me-- yes. slept like a dream. (though the 2nd person has to crawl over the 1st in the cozy bed nook.) We just loved that place-- but that whole area is magical!

dina4 - i promise promise to post the next part with il frantoio this afternoon. it's hard to get back to the "real world", isn't it?

Thanks,Kawh and HG! kawh, I did mean your trulli. It looks so adorable. Are there any comfy places to sit besides the bed?

Thank you for your London report! We are going in July for the very first time and I'm so excited!
Everything sounded lovely. (And I got tix to "Matilda" since it gets such rave reviews and we love the story. So glad to hear you loved it too.) Thanks again!

very nice! glad you enjoyed London... so much to do there even in the rain

jubilada- yes. you can actually have more than 2 people stay there. there's another very little alcove with a day bed in it (which we used as a luggage rack) then there's a little desk set-up which was nice. (no internet) and a chair that faces the t.v. (which also swings around so you can watch in bed.
there are many trulli from which to choose-- but the price was great on this one, and we really liked it. i had reported on it briefly, actually, form our trip... click on my screen name and it should come up 'quick budget recommendation from puglia."

IL FRANTOIO COOKING CLASS, MATERA, AND THE GORGEOUS GARGANO PENINSULA…

Sorry it’s taken so long to get back to this.
So.. Il Frantoio… one of the most enjoyable experiences of the trip.
Everyone else has described the meals here better than I could. After all the long poems you Fodorites have written to this place, it did not disappoint. We had dinner there—but did not stay.
I noticed that they can arrange for cooking classes so I wrote them on a whim. Arrive at 4 and cook until dinner at around 8. We didn’t know what to expect but it sounded fun.
Please let me know if anyone else out there has done this—because we really got the feeling that they hadn’t done this often.

Silvana (the manager and our translator for the day) led us for class into an Italian country kitchen with a staff seemingly cast by a Hollywood agent looking to present the penultimate in friendly and fiendishly efficient master Italian cooks. The sweetest and most devoted cooks ever. This, I think, is the secret to Il Frantoio’s success!

We were lucky to be the only two students and saw as the squad of five, led by the ever smiling main chef and her primary assistant, seamlessly chopped, sautéed, grated, diced, stuffed, layered, fried, boiled, baked, rolled pasta, fashioned desert, and more, preparing before our eyes a full course meal for 30. And in the midst of it all, they were generously explaining, gently guiding, sometimes prodding, but always encouraging us to join in and participate in some of the tasks. So, we cut some pasta with a special grooved rolling pin, stuffed some zucchini flowers, tasted the sauces, sampled the dishes and practiced our Italian (which required even greater patience on their part then our cooking efforts). . Laughs, information, warmth and hard work. We fully appreciated that some of these little tiny dollops of flavor on the plate each take an hour or more to make. This was an amazing ‘cooking class’ – interrupted in the middle with a delicious cold coffee drink that I wanted to drown in. (they made it with almond milk)

While they were putting the finishing touches and getting ready for the dinner rush, the owner, Armando led us and another couple on a tour of the grounds in his 1938 Fiat. Crammed in, we bumped along dirt roads through the orchards as Armando explained (and mostly embellished) stories of how the thousand year old groves were first planted, the olive oils pressed and how generations before him lived and ingeniously dealt with the many challenges they faced.

Drinks and such in the lovely outdoor area as the many guests slowly arrived. Throughout dinner, Armando preened and pranced around the table telling of how the unique apple olives (which we watched being cooked) are the only ones that can be eaten without first being brined, and how they were gathered just this day and how the potatoes and ceci (chick peas) mash was prepared without ever touching metal. He repeated—“they never touch the iron.” We exchanged conspiratorial glances --as we’d seen earlier in the kitchen how the olives had been gathered, but from the freezer from last Fall’s harvest, and how the peas and potatoes( though mashed in ceramic with a wooden implement) were first cooked in a (gasp!) metal pan. Of course, this took nothing away from the magnificent feast-- speaking more to the theatric vision painted by Armando and confirming that not all of Italy’s biggest hams are found solely in Parma! It was an afternoon and evening we will never forget.

Next day, off to the Gargano and the Forest Umbra—with a stop at “Masseria Barbera” in Minervino Merge. It’s a long and puzzling drive from Matera. There’s just no easy way to get there— but it was a pretty drive. Still—GPS let us down a time or two— taking us through a country road that seemed more like a tractor path. And as we got nearer, we were completely lost and super late. Finally had phone reception and called and they were kind—-yes, they would take us though we were over an hour late for lunch.

Here we used the true Italian GPS, which my hubbie has coined “Gentili Persone in Strada”. The third person we asked was a cop. He offered to let us follow him there—which we eagerly and gratefully accepted! (The last time we were led to a meal by an Italian cop was almost 10 years ago, to the divine “Il Gaidello” near Modena! It was a good sign!)

Arriving late at Barbera, we were welcomed and presented plate after plate after plate of delicious local cheeses, vegetables and the best bread ever! Baby asparagus soufflé, fresh ricotta with sweet cooked wine , deliciously charred peppers that were unbelievably sweet & smokey, baked onions… these were some of the stand-outs. We then had pasta courses which were very good—orecchiette with fava a pici-like pasta… and the mixed grill was divine. Dessert of nuts, cookies and a flan. Really—everything was delicious, but If I had it to do again, I probably would have just had the appetizer and meat courses. It truly was too much of a good thing!

We left after a 2 hour lunch—- could have definitely stayed longer and strolled the gorgeous grounds between courses-- but had to get on to Peschici in the Gargano. We didn’t want to end up driving these unfamiliar coastal roads in the dark. It wasn’t long before the road became highway—and then the winding roads into the Gargano (from the north end, not the south) were really pretty good! Glimpses and gorgeous water—both rough and smooth—with mountains and forest in the other direction. Lovely.

Arrived at “B&B Baia Sciroco’ in Peschici and were so pleasantly surprised. It’s sooo much nicer than the pictures made it look! Perched right on the edge at the water… with a huge tile deck. It's a world-clas spot to have a glass of wine with the waves below and the dreamy coastline cliffs. The owner is so kind and very “Martha Stewart” in that she cares about the details. Breakfasts included her divine homemade yogurt – and I don’t even usually like yogurt!

From here, we were able to walk into this small town— the old section was just a 10 minute walk. This town has a real lived-in feel and we really liked it. I don’t think I would want to be anywhere in this area in mid-summer, however, as I think it would be way too crowded on the roads. But early May was perfect!

Went bird-watching in the forest on the second day. Saw some amazing woodpeckers . Lots to explore there and great for easy walks. Enjoyed Vieste—It’s a pretty little historic town on the coast—but would not put it first on my list.

Beaches are gorgeous all along here—but seem like they would be truly overrun in the heat of summer. We mostly enjoyed driving the gorgeous roads along the coast and through the forest and countryside. It’s a lovely area.

Had another favorite meal at ‘Agriturismo Osteria Pane e Vino” just outside of peschici. We were suspicious, because we had seen signs along the road, but the owner of our b&b insisted we would like it. YES!!
We were seated by a little fire (it was unseasonably cold and rainy in May) at a long table. We almost didn't start with the antipasto-- but the owner sort of insisted. Thank goodness!! It really is a meal in itself. .. absolutely do not miss it! (We should have known it would be great when we walked in and saw some local polizia having lunch at one of the long tables, and the uniformed forest service worker at another…)

Theirs was the best bread of the month-long trip. Chewy, crusty and perfect. Burrata cheese with fried zucchini. Fried polenta with a cheese dip. zucchini marinated with lemon. amazing salami, and on and on.Watched them grilling the meats out on the patio. It reminded us of a more rustic, more greasy (in a good way) Masseria Barbera meal. All fresh and delicious and endless.

The pasta was delicious. The service was sweet and calm and quick. No real English spoken. The owner seems to be so proud of what they serve. They ended by bringing 4 different homemade liquors (on the house) to our table and we tried them all. (loved the dark green one-- don't remember what it was... herbal and so fresh!Maybe fennel??)
The bill was super reasonable. Highly, highly recommend this place. Pane e Vino was one of the top 5 of our trip. (Well—maybe there are 7 or 8 in my top 5…)

To wrap this up… after 3 nights in the Gargano, we continued on to return the car in Termoli. Train to Bologna.

Will post a quick finish to this epic report with Bologna, Parma and Milano tomorrow. Again, sorry it's gotten so long!

Kawh, entertaining account of Il Frantoio, I don't think I could even attempt all that food, but the cooking class sounds intriguing.
In planning our fall trip I had a very difficult time deciding whether to do a few days on the Gargano Peninsula or going south to the Salento. The south won out, partly because the idea of going to the very tip of the heel of Italy is just too much of a draw to ignore. I might be disappointed but want to say I've been there, in any case.
And, the Gargano can more easily fit into another itinerary another time. Any comments one way or the other?

sundried, i think you will definitely not be dissapointed with the Salento. Our little trip to Santa Maria Al Bagna really gave us a feel for that southern region and we were definitely left wanted to properly visit there another time. That place had a small beach which was very very pretty indeed, if a little busy.

also

this book

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Head-over-Heel-Seduced-Southern/dp/185788521X

will really wet your appetite for it. The guy (australian i think) met his wife in italy and they moved to her home village in the Salento. Its a pretty good read even without the travel link too.

Thanks HG I will definitely give that a read. Only 3 months til we leave!

I agree with HG -- you will love the Salento. You won't be sorry! You can save the Gargano for next time when you are generally more north.

As I said in our report-- we stayed in Tricase and loved that whole area. Not to mention the wines which I declare the best in Italy! (ok... maybe the best budget wines in Italy!)

Where will you base yourself down there??

We only have a few days and will day trip from Lecce. Would have liked to stay near Otranto. Well, we still have lots of traveling years ahead of us, I'm sure we will return at some point and stay longer.

I don't think it's possible to not return to the South!

Oh, we had just decided probably not to go all the way to peschici and now it sounds so wonderful.

Kawh, looks like Tricase is just by Andrano, which is the central village they live in in the book. Think i might base a Salento trip down in that little area myself!

hg-- oh- for some reason, i thought you were talking about a photo-book and didn't check it out. (i already have my own photos!) but i see now that it's a sort of travel log-- i'm going to order it. looks interesting.

ps-- if london is where you actually live, would love any advice you have on the place. i'm unexpectedly going back in october. (i have a separate posting about trips out-- but would love advice for places to eat. v. budget but going with a foodie friend from s.f. -- it's tough to do big-city budget/foodie together!)

GARGANO TO BOLOGNA TO PADOVA TO MILAN AND HOME…
As I end this longer- than-intended report, we say farewell to the Gargano. Took one last drive along the coastline along the spur of the boot… and a gorgeous coastline it is. Lots of new road and parking construction as they get ready for the summer crowds.

From the coast, it’s an easy drive on the freeway to Termoli and we easily (for a change) find the rental place… we had rented through Kemwel and they used Europecar. The office is literally a short block from the train station—the perfect location.

It’s too early to catch the train—so we search out lunch. Had a good lunch in the nearly-empty Rist. Don Giovanni. Spoke with the owner and her son—they are so obviously not that used to international tourists…he said, “Oh- - we had a visitor from California last month! “ Good meat and pasta and close to the station.

An easy train ride to Bologna and an easy taxi to our airbnb room. Our first with just a room inside an apartment-- not our own place. It was really fun getting to know the owner, Elizabeth, and meeting her two sons. It was the absolutely perfect location just 5 minutes walk from the Duomo.

Had a busy schedule in Bologna. D.H. had taken a language class there the summer before, so visited his host family, which was very sweet. She made her mother’s lasagna—outstanding. Onions baked and stuffed with cheese, spinach torte, and an amazing rice-based dessert for which I got the recipe. I spent the next day trying to find the same dried fruit mixture at the grocery story as she had used for the dessertso that I could try to replicate it back home!

D.H. went bird-watching with a family he knew from the year before—off in the lovely hills around Bologna. (saw a bunch of bee-eaters)
We had a good dinner at the touristy-but-classic Restaurant Diana. The Tortellini in Brodo was quite good and we loved the scene as well as the ultra-bright interior. Service was less than perfect—and after almost a month of enjoying amazing and inexpensive wine in Puglia, we were shocked at the lackluster red house wine with their own name on the label. Ah, life in the big city.

We love everything about this city. The students, the porticos (especially with an unexpected light May rain), great food, sculpture, historic buildings… just everything.

It still boasts one of my top 5 Gelato spots – the amazing “Stefino” which is on V. Galleria (not to be confused with the vastly inferior gelato place that is ON a street named Stefino) … they have the cleanest flavors I’ve ever had…. And their fresh granita is beyond!

Visited with D.H.’s teacher from last summer (Koine Language school) and had drinks at the very, very lovely rooftop bar at the unlikely “Hotel Touring.” I would say that this is a wonderful and unexpected spot that we would never have known about without the advice of a local resident. No evidence of a bar from outside or the lobby of the hotel… just step in the elevator and take it to the top. You will walk out on a modern little rooftop bar with a view over Bologna on one side, and over the hills and monastery on the other. PERFECT place to watch the sun setting. Sat and had drinks for several hours—not cheap-- it was about $20 a person, but we had champagne and enough hors d'oeuvres to call it dinner. (bread and cheese/meat, lasagna, olives, dips… )

From Bologna we took the train to lovely Padova. This town is just so charming. Much like Bologna, but on a smaller scale—and filled with students.

The old school and lab are great to visit and, of course, the historic coffee house, Caffe Pedrocchi. Here, you really get bang for your buck. First of all, you can hang out in the green room all day without buying anything. But we chose to have “Spritz” drinks in the formal red room. We looked a mess form the light rain—but were greeted with enthusiasm and the service was divine. 2 drinks with little munchies as well cost us 5E each—no cover. Outstanding value and just a great spot to take a moment to breathe deeply. The spritz is now our favorite drink to make this summer… fresh and fruity but not sweet. Mmmmmm. Only wish we had brought home more Aperol to make them with—bought one bottle at the grocery store for 7E, thinking we’d buy more at the huge Milan airport—but they were out!!! So now must buy it imported—at $24 a bottle.

The real bargain in Padova was the Padova card. 16E for 48 hours. All transportation—bus and tram in town and out. Many reduced entries. The biggie, Scrovegni Chapel, was free with the card (after a 1E reservation charge.)

But the main attraction was going to the 5* spas just out of town on the card!! Bus, day at the thermal pools, and a half-hour MASSAGE were all included on the card! We spent a luxurious day at Abano Grand Hotel and relaxed in our hotel robes, enjoying the thermal pools. I will admit that the ‘free’ day got pricey with a fantastic lunch (in our robes, by the pool, of course) but that was just the relaxation taking over our good senses. It was an amazing day. Even though the bus was having a ‘manifestazione” and we had to search for 45 minutes to find the new bus stop, it was a near-perfect day.
And of course there was the 4.7 earthquake which sent everyone out in the street at 4am. As Californians, we were less nervous than many (though an earthquake in the midst of such old buildings is a whole new thing…) but it was scary. After standing outside for almost an hour, the little Hotel Fagiano started making espresso and handing them out to calm our nerves!!

Best story about the earthquake happened 2 days later in Milan. Chatting with the very sweet hotel clerk (Hotel Rio) in Italian, we were exchanging notes about the earthquake. He asked whether everyone ran outside. We said, “Yes, everyone was quite scared.” He said—oh they ran outside like ittle ----- something??? I didn’t know the word. Asked him to repeat it. ‘Like little -----“ he repeats. So I am thinking that the word sounds like an onomatopoeic word for mouse or maybe cockroach… but I say, “What does that word mean, SCHETTINO ?”
And of course, he was saying that everyone ran out like little SCHETTINO —as in Ship Captain Schettino – the man they consider a shameful coward for leaving his sinking ship!!! He now has the (deserved) honor of being a descriptive word for ‘cowardly’ or ‘frightened’ . Don’t you just love it??

So much more to say about Padova, but must finally, finally wrap up. Milan just for a quick 2 nights as we steady ourselves for home and all the undone chores that lay ahead. Had a pretty good meal that included one of the best single items I’ve ever eaten at Il Coriandolo. It’s the kind of place that hotels send foreigners— and a little over-priced—but "pansotti Genovesi al Sugo di Noci" was one of the best dishes I've ever eaten. I seriously wanted to just order the same thing again as our second course! I know it's not a local dish-- but I wanted to try something new and it was just beyond. The most delicious stuffed pasta with a hearty bite and layers of flavor. Covered in a sauce that is cream-based and impossible to describe…fresh borage and nuts but a really complex flavor.. an absolute must... if you are on a budget-- just go and have this dish and call it a day! Divine.
Also must mention a new favorite gelato place—just behind the Galleria and toward the department store… I stumbled upon Cioccolati Italiani as I took a stroll through the Galleria and thought it was amazing. The Stracciatella is was wonderful-- with a super-dark chocolate added in irregular bits. As an added bonus-- they add warm, thick chocolate to the bottom of the cone-- a warm and yummy treat when you finish your scoops.
It should be noted that their espresso was good as well-- and priced at an outstanding 1E for a cup!! This is probably less than at the Autogrill a block away.

So this is it. I’ve reached the end. Being the travel addict that I am, I am already planning for a quick trip to London in September (a dear friend’s 60th) so any advice-givers are welcome to go off-topic and give me advice!

Puglia-and-beyond was a dream vacation. Without the help of many of you, it just would not have been as dreamy. Thank you—and happy travels.

Lovely report - and do read that book, its really great! I enjoyed it alot and forced hubby to read it too...even he enjoyed it!

Thank you so much for reporting back - we head off to Italy and Puglia at the end of June!

thanks so much for your evocative report. To all those going soon, please tell us about your trips; it is so helpful and simply fun!

I really enjoyed this report and am sad to see it end. Thanks for all of the great details. I just loved Bologna and am envious at your DH's time at the language school there, and always am happy to read more about that great city.

All of these Puglia reports are REALLY making me crave a visit there. Sounds delightful. Thanks again!

p.s. just downloaded "Head Over Heel" to my nook

Thanks again for your great report. I have one night booked in Bologna on our way between Venice and Perugia, but after your report, I am thinking maybe we should stay in Padova instead. I will have to check out the logistics on that one.
Airbnb sounds like a great budget option. Would you say it's helpful to know a little Italian, more so than at a hotel?

Thank you for your great report. Loved Padua, but we missed the Padova card.

jamikins-- remind me of your itinerary?? oh oh i wish i was going back!

sundried-- it's tough to decide between bologna and padova! both such great cities.... if you or your travel partner haven't been to bologna, i would say bologna (it's just one of my favorite cities! ) bit if you've both been-- try padova out for sure.

We are spending a week in Le Marche, then driving down the east coast and staying at a masseria in the countryside outside Brindisi. Plan to visit: Ostuni, Otranto, Lecce, monopoli area, the towns with Trulli, Galipoli and a long day trip (not ideal but we really want to go!) to Matera. We have a full week and really plan to eat/drink our way through Italy hahaha!

Starting out with a day in Bologna as that was the cheapest flight we could get...yay!

Desperately need a vacation!!!

I'd all but decided to skip the Gargano since it is so off the main travel routes; but now I put it back on my future map!

Can you describe the differences between Peschici and Vieste, as you saw them? Is one prettier than the other? More touristy?



Did you go to Matera? You mention it, but I did not notice any comments....no matter, I really enjoyed reading and I liked that you reviewed your hotels/B&Bs on TripAdvisor.

ek-- yes-- we absolutely loved matera! we also used and adored your recommended guide, nadia g.

yes-- this got long enough without long reviews of all-- so did that on t.a. and hope it helps someone, somewhere.

i will say that we loved peschici and have such fond memories of our time there. however, the town itself is not 'pretty' as so many of the puglian old cities are pretty. even the centro storico has more of a 'used' and working feeling to it... it has some charming narrow streets, but not a lot of view spots or old squares where you look out over the landscape.

the charm we found in peschici was more about settling in there. our place was, as i said, on a gorgeous cliffside where we enjoyed hanging out and listening to the water below. we could take a walk along the cliffs -- or wander into town to see what was happening at the little square (not especially gorgeous-- but often active) or for some good food. we just enjoyed the quiet flow of the town.

vieste is, no doubt, charming and pretty-- but we both thought to ourselves that we were glad we hadn't stayed there. the old town is quite small and seemed to be all shops with the same-old. beautiful views from here and there and lovely to see-- but the promenade is lacking (in my opinion) and you will either stay in the old town (which is a little hike from one's car) or in the newer town which is lined with india-imports type tourist shops.

of course-- i am no judge, as we only spent 5 or 6 hours there.

we loved peschici's location (was it 'fanco' here who recommended it to me??) because we were at the water, in a small town, but could get in and out really easily--without a lot of hectic driving-through-town. we could head along the n. coast of the spur to some great hiking -- or head toward vieste for gorgeous views and beaches. we also could easily head into the center of the gargano-- which we wished we had more time to do.

we did not have time for the creme de la creme of the area-- which was monte st. angelo. others at our b&b told us that it was not a bad drive, but gorgeous and many cliffs and curves. in general, we found the roads there to be just excellent. in may, it was easy and pleasant driving throughout-- but many of the businesses were not even open yet. in summer, i imagine they are nearly impossible with traffic. let me know if there's anything else you want to know. you have been such a help to us!

We did the same cooking class last year with Chef Andrea. It was a highlight of our trip. Highly recommended.

Kawh: Thanks so much for those helpful comments about Gargano and the comparisons between the two towns. I will try to work this area into one of my future Puglia trips!

You'll love it!

eks-- 'yestravel' just posted an article from the nyt on the gargano which is quite good. don't know whether you're still considering visiting. -kawh

kawh - only just found this fantastic TR - thanks for writing it! I was right there with you, all the way.

Now I'm wondering if we ought to go to Puglia rather than Sicily next spring!

annhig-- so glad you enjoyed-- and let me know if you have any questions at all. sicily is on our short list... so if you go, be sure to report in!!! i'll be watching!

Great report! The food descriptions are killing me....we had Subway for dinner!

denisea... yes... and you can get subway just about anywhere in the world EXCEPT puglia!! honest-- i've seen subway in the tiniest towns throughout the world... but don't remember seeing one in puglia. ha!

actually that was a pleasant surprise to not c virtually any chains anywhere that we went throughout the region. I think we saw a McDonald sign somewhere.

Great report...brings back fond memory of our time in Puglia!! The food in Puglia is indeed exceptional, we spent four nights in Lecce and had wonderful food every night. And for everyone who is planning a visit to Lecce please do yourselves a favour and try the pastry/cake called Pasticiotto...it is absolutely delicious. Our favourite was from Natale.
kawh it is a shame that your accommodation in Lecce was not up to scratch. If you ever go back to Lecce, stay at L'Orangerie d'Epoque, it's just a block outside the wall of the old town. We had the best stay there...
http://www.lorangeriedepoque.com/inglese/home.php
We stayed at Il Frontoio and had their 8-course dinner on our wedding anniversary a couple of years ago. It is a lovely location and the accommodation was nice, but DH and I found the whole experience a bit commercialised and contrived...and perhaps rehearsed (from the owner's guided walk in the garden before dinner to his speech accompanying each dish). But that's just our take on the place...
Thanks for sharing your wonderful trip!

lilloulou-- well-- i hope i wasn't too subtle when i talked about our visit to frantoio and the owner. yes.. when i say embellished, i guess i also mean rehearsed! i mean-- this guy is a control freak!! (and i mean this in the nicest possible way..... I think he may be a frustrated actor. still-- the food was amazing and being with the kitchen staff for several hours as they prepared dinner was as real as it gets. it was magical.

l'orangerie was on our short list for lecce accommodations, and now i'm really sorry we didn't go with it.

our favorite pasticiotto was at the bar cin cin, which i mentioned above. warm every morning and not very sweet. of course, being fair and balanced food critics... we tried it everywhere!! a tough job, but someone has to...

yes, did you know that in 2006 a bakery in Altamura forced Mc Donald's fast food to close ?

olivella, I had read about that and loved it!

cheers from me!!! (though i have to admit to stopping at many a foreign mcdonalds for 2 things-- a soft drink with a TON of ice (impossible to get and such a divine treat after weeks of travel) and, well, we just call mcdonald's "the world's bathrooms." for that, i have oft been grateful!!!)

Yes, Kawh... so sad that Mc Donalds closed in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milano!!!!!

olivelia-- ah, well... no great loss... there's a good restroom in rinascente next door!!