Can't wait to read more I travel with our DD often and love it. We took my mom to Paris a few years ago, just the 3 of us. So I am really looking forward to hearing how your trip with the 3 of you went.

Great report. I travel with my sweet mother all the time and we always have the best time. I can't wait to read more!

i agree that trip reports are helpful for ideas. i also like that you took the time to actually plan AHEAD instead of posting another "leaving for Paris in 2 days what should we see?" type nonsense. looking forward to reading more.

Fun report, lantana. I'm looking forward to more. I like your illustrations!

Hi Lantana

"We were hoping to see the portrait of Princes William and Harry"

Did you see the portrait. Great, eh?

Really enjoying you report...

Looking forward to more lantana!

Thank you all for the encouragement

mms - your TRs are definitely some of my favorites!
tailsock - you made me laugh. Thank you for reading.
latedaytraveler - no, we didn't get to see the portrait We asked about it and were told it was not currently on display.

Day 3
We were out of the hotel a little after 9am. Went to the Starbucks around the corner for coffee, tea - and a bacon roll for my daughter. She loved these. We also enjoyed a wi-fi frenzy, as wi-fi at Number Sixteen costs a whopping £20 per 24-hr. period. We appreciated being able to check emails, send emails and upload pics.

By 10:20 we left Starbucks (in a light rain) and headed to the V&A, which was just a couple of blocks away. Currently, there's an exhibition "Ballgowns: British Glamour Since 1950" http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/exhibitions/ballgowns/ that I knew would be of great interest to my daughter, who's very "into" history, fashion and Britain. It was about £17 for the two of us to go in. We enjoyed it - and also the permanent collection of fashions from 18th and 19th centuries. My daughter was in heaven here. Not allowed to take pics of ballgowns but here are some from permanent collection:
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/efa31abc.jpg
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/9d06531a.jpg
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/254-1.jpg
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/255-2.jpg

The museum, as frequently mentioned, is huge. We explored a bit, admiring the stained glass, portrait miniatures (loved) and the Turners. I just couldn't handle the jewelry but my daughter checked it out while I sat down and studied my map and rested a bit. There's nothing more exhausting than a museum!
We went out into the courtyard, even though it was chilly and wet, and had fun in the rolling basket chairs. Browsed in the large shop, which had many nice items.

When we walked outside, my daughter remembered the Cabmen's Shelter that I'd told her beforehand (thanks to lovs2travel) would be right outside the V&A entrance. We were eager to get tea from one of these historic stands/shelters but it had literally just closed! http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/314.jpg It was open only until 1pm on Saturdays. We never did make it to one - but at least we saw a couple. Very cute.

We were chilly and wet (but happy) and walked back in the direction of our hotel. We were hungry and had passed a Le Pain Quotidien that morning that looked very appealing. We stopped there for lunch and it was delightful. We had to wait (it was 1pm on a Saturday) a bit but we had a really nice lunch and just fell in love with the place. We returned several times during the week.
Chicken and mozzarella tartine at Le pain Quotidien: http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/280.jpg

After lunch, we walked to Harrod's. This is an hour out of my life that I wish i could get back but, oh well. I'd been warned but it just seemed like something we should at least see. Ugh. Then we went to Harvey Nichols for about 5 minutes. We walked to Hyde Park Corner and entered the park, walking along the lake, eventually coming upon the Diana, Princess of Wales Memorial Fountain (there are many Diana references in my report b/c my daughter loves her and has read several books on her. She's also a "royal watcher" in general). We were happy to have seen it, although it's not exactly beautiful.
We loved seeing so many dogs enjoying the parks - almost all were off-leash, unlike where we live. These were happy doggies. And mostly terriers They had wet bellies from running through the damp grass. We had fun people- and dog-watching in the parks.

Continued our walk into Kensington Gardens http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/292-2.jpg and returned to the Palace http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/298-3.jpg and its gift shops. There are actually two shops - one with children's items and also books. It had been closed when we were there our first afternoon, so we were glad to be able to check it out. I bought a small Bensons map of London, which I used for the rest of the trip.

We ended up returning to the Orangery for tea and cake. It wasn't quite as fabulous as our first time - but nice. And sunshine was streaming in through the windows by the time we left. http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/317.jpg Got to see gardens in a different light http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/323-1.jpg

We walked out of the park, along the south border, and out at the Albert Memorial http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/330-1.jpg , admiring the Royal Albert Hall across the street. We walked a bit out of the way but there were many interesting sights on the way back to our hotel, including what I believe (from looking at my map)to be Ennismore Gardens. Lovely neighborhood. http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/336-2.jpg

We got back to the hotel and just relaxed for the rest of the evening.

Even though I am going to London soon, I can't wait to see what you have to say about Paris, good or bad.

What a fun report! Thanks for posting it. I'm looking forward to the rest.

Lee Ann

Day Four Sunday, July 14
Got a late start. Woke up very early but went back to sleep and then could barely get moving.
We went to Starbucks for coffee and wifi and were on the tube by 11am on our way to the British Museum. We arrived by 11:30. We loved what we saw but were pretty much in and out. The place was mobbed. I had a list of the major must-sees which, for us, were the Rosetta Stone, Elgin marbles and mummies.
I like taking photos but it gets silly at museums. I think it should be banned. And enforced. Anyway, we were lucky to get 30 full, unobstructed seconds before the Rosetta Stone.
The mummies were so special. We spent most of our time with them. Fascinating and very touching. Miraculous.
We left and headed to our tea time at Fortnum & Mason. Stopped in at Hatchard's bookstore on the way. Great bookstore and I got one of my brother's a signed copy of the latest Martin Amis novel. My daughter got a book on Wallis Simpson that she's enjoying very much.

The Diamond Jubilee Tea Room It was posh and all that but I didn't love it. Sort of fake fancy http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/380-3.jpg My daughter was very impressed, though. Everything tasted good. http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/385.jpg
We shopped afterwards and just loved the china and antiques section. What a nice store...
After tea, we walked to the National Gallery, which we absolutely loved. We got super lucky here because Vermeer's "Guitar Player" was on loan from Kenwood House, which is going through a renovation. I love to see Vermeers where and when I can and had made a note of the room in the NG where their two are. When we arrived, "Lady Standing at a Virginal" was there but "Lady Sitting at a Virginal" was not. There was the "Guitar Player", though - one of the most beautiful paintings I've ever seen. I felt very lucky.
We also went to see "Sunflowers" and as an added bonus, got to see someone get blessed out for photographing it
So much important art here - da Vinci, van Eyck (got to see the "Arnolfini Wedding Portrait" in real life and learned that it's actually no longer called that, as it's not considered to portray a wedding at all), Caravaggio, Rembrandt, etc. It was overwhelming but in a good way. We had fun buying postcards of some of our favorites.

Walked out into Trafalgar Square and there was a huge crowd watching some performers. Human Fountain or something like that. Anyway, I took pics of my daughter with the Olympics countdown clock (couldn't resist) and then we walked around the corner to the Nat'l Portrait Gallery. Had just missed the Queen Elizabeth exhibition (again), but we shopped a bit and used the restroom. I then dragged my daughter over to the London Eye. It was very chaotic in the area http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/424-1.jpg but I really wanted us to do it and it was a nice afternoon. We got tickets and waited only about 20 min. Unfortunately, my daughter was quite uncomfortable with the ride at first but she did ok in the end. I'm glad we did it once. http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/476-2.jpg http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/459-1.jpg

Got back via tube and stopped in at "our" Pret A Manger for hot sandwiches and a cappuccino and hot chocolate to go. We were exhausted. There was a knock at the door about 20 min. after we got back to our room and it was a housekeeper, telling me I'd left my key in the door

We relaxed for the rest of the evening. My daughter was happy with her book and I scanned my notes and Michelin Green Guide.

kerouac - all good, all good. Although, I somehow missed all the fabulous métro stations you'd gotten me excited about. Well - all but Arts et Métiers. It was lovely.
Let's just say I spent way too much time in Châtelet

Wonderful report. Haven't clicked on all the photo links yet but will this evening.

>>had fun in the rolling basket chairs.<< I loved those. My problem is I'm very short and had the darnedest time getting enough traction to get it rolling. But w/ a mighty fling backwards I finally got it going.

Speaking of which, we couldn't believe how many restaurants, cafes and bakeries were in London. I've never seen so many places to get something to eat in my entire life.>>

lantana - you set me thinking about how many eating places there are in my local town - Truro.

after a great deal of research ! I've concluded that very roughly every 5th shop is a restaurant, cafe or pub. there's one area of town where that goes up to one in two places.

no wonder we're all getting fatter.

BTW, lantana - I'm greatly enjoying your TR.

This is great! I love all the detail and that you added your pictures into your report. I am looking forward to the rest!!

janisj - how hilarious about needing traction for those chairs at V&A Very cute.

annhig - you live in Cornwall? My parents hope to visit there in the next couple of years ♥
No kidding about us all getting fatter. My friend in Paris took me to get Berthillon ice cream after dinner one night and I couldn't believe how gigantic US scoops are in comparison. It's obscene, really.

Thank you lovs2travel. I hope you know your report was a delight to read!

Day 5
I woke up at 5:30am
It was, unsurprisingly, a wet, grey morning. Didn't get moving until later and didn't leave hotel until 10:15a. Had breakfast at Muriel's Kitchen. http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/507-1.jpg and then went to a bank across the street to get coins for my husband. He wanted some £1 and £2

Tube by 11:30a. We were at St. Paul's by noon and got to hear the bells ringing. St. Paul's certainly is impressive. Just magnificent. My daughter was thrilled to walk in the footsteps of Diana on her wedding day.
We enjoyed the audioguide and then walked up to the Whispering Gallery. I'm so glad we did. Beautiful to see the church from that vantage point.

We finished in the cathedral's shop by 1:30p and walked down the street to a Starbucks, happy to sit down with some refreshment and, yes, wifi (we had a lot of people back home who were eager to hear news and see photos!)
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/529-3.jpg

I needed to pick up a few things from a drugstore and when I saw a Boots across from the Stbx, I decided to go in. I recognized the name from Fodors. We bought some UK eye shadow for my makeup-loving niece and some face wash and tiny nail clippers. I also got correct directions to the Millennium Bridge. I was glad I asked, as I was headed in the opposite direction.

http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/541-1.jpg
We walked across the MB to the Tate Modern http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/551-3.jpg , which we enjoyed for its restrooms and free wifi. I can't believe how popular this place is. Oh well, at least we got to see a few things we enjoyed (a Matisse portrait, some Miros and a Kandinsky. Most things we saw looked ridiculous to us.)Just not our thing at all...

Took a cab back to our hotel. This was our only cab ride in London. We had a very nice driver but the ride was long and cost as much as one of my 7-day travel cards. Plus, we both got nauseated with all the stops and starts.

Stopped and had an early supper at Le Pain Quotidien on our way from S. Ken station to our hotel. I had a chicken curry sandwich that was very nice http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/576.jpg , my daughter got a ham and cheese quiche http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/577-1.jpg We also had a nice pot of tea http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/575-1.jpg
We waited to get dessert from the Hummingbird Bakery on the walk back to the hotel. I got a whoopie pie that was insanely delicious and huge. It lasted 2 days. My daughter got a red velvet cake cupcake. I only got pics of the to go boxes http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/578.jpg

We were back in our room by 6pm and relaxed for the rest of the evening.

Day 6

This headline made me laugh: http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/582-1.jpg

Today we had tickets to visit Highclere Castle from 1-4pm. We love the Masterpiece series, "Downton Abbey" and thought it would make a fun day trip. We loved it and had a great day.
We got very lucky with the weather, as today called for sunshine and 71 degrees. And no rain! So we didn't have to lug our raincoats this day.

On our way to the tube station we dropped off my daughter's fascinator to be shipped home (£16.20) and then stopped for breakfast at Le Pain Quotidien - so good! http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/584-1.jpg
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/585-1.jpg

Took tube to Paddington Station, got some cash from an ATM, bought chocolate (for my daughter), raisins in adorable little boxes (to take home to my little niece) and water from M&S, then took a train to Newbury. I knew which times there'd be trains but didn't buy them until this morning. I think it came to about $60 USD for the two of us for train to Newbury and same-day, non-peak return.
Left right on time, at 11:18a
Lovely trip. The countryside is gorgeous.
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/595-1.jpg

Had a really friendly cab driver to Highclere. He gave me his card and told me to call him when we were ready to return to the train station and he helped me with how much time to allow, etc. I think it was £15 each way and I tipped him another £3;

Lots of sheep on the Highclere grounds. And they're loud. When we first arrived and were walking around outside, I told my daughter there must be some sort of match going on nearby b/c I could hear yelling. She told me it was the sheep
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/602-1.jpg

We got there and walked the grounds a bit, then went to find bathroom and then shopped a bit. We entered the house by 1:30. No photos allowed inside.

http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/868a93f7.jpg

http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/951ac53d.jpg

It was fun to see some of the rooms from the show and it was very interesting to see a real castle but the passageways get packed with slow-moving guests. And there are a few too many photos of the lady of the house for my taste But it was fun to visit and we really fell in love with the English countryside. Just the cab ride from train to castle was delightful. My daughter dreams of living in the country with her English husband and babies one day

After going through the house, we had tea outdoors http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/8d9544b1.jpg (tea for two, plus two scones w/ jam and clotted cream was £8) and then walked in the fields below and behind the house. It was such a pleasure being there.
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/9867dd28.jpg
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/91392d5d.jpg


We were on train back to London by 3pm. On return we took train that required change in Reading, rather than waiting around 45 min. (I think) for the direct train.

From Paddington we took tube to Oxford Circus. I wanted to go to Liberty of London. I thought it looked like a store we'd enjoy. Very original. We loved it. They have an amazing vintage clothing collection. And great china and gifts and paper goods. Very fun place to shop. And I love that they sell knitting yarn and buttons and fresh flowers. Very cool store
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/adfba896.jpg
We ended up having dinner across the street at a Spaghetti House. It hit the spot. Afterwards, we walked via Regent St. to Piccadilly Station, stopping in at a Zara where we found my daughter a very pretty Chanel-inspired jacket, then took tube to S. Kensington.

I am saving this report for future trips. You have planned this out so well! I can't wait to read more.

I'm really enjoying your report, also looking forward to Paris.

Love seeing all the photos! Thanks

“no, we didn't get to see the portrait We asked about it and were told it was not currently on display.”

Lantana, Sorry that you didn’t see that great portrait of Wills and Harry at the Portrait Gallery – probably on view elsewhere. I am sure that it will be back in London someday.

Really enjoying your report - thanks for sharing...

I'm back.

Lantana, I have to ask, was the book your daughter bought THAT WOMAN, THE LIFE OF WALLIS SIMPSON DUCHESS OF WINDSOR by Anne Sherba recently published?

I just read it – great read. Actually both Wallis and Edward were a bit crazy and anorexic. In my view the Duke of Windsor really did not want to be king.

Really enjoying your report. I want to go back to London...

Wow! What a great report. It feels like I'm right there. Great pictures too. Sounds like you had a really wonderful time and stayed busy doing all the things you had spent so much time planning for. Good job! If your daughter's dream of living in the English countryside with her husband and your grandbabies comes true, you will no doubt be spending a lot of time there doing even more fun things. Can't wait to read about Paris....

Loving your report, lantana. I especially like the photo of lavender and wall at Highclere, and what a beautiful place to have tea. Must keep Muriel's Kitchen in mind.

Agree about photos at museums. I've seen people walk briskly along a gallery, taking photos of almost all the paintings. If you don't take the time to look at the originals when you're there, how likely is it you'll enjoy photos? Also more difficult to enjoy say Monet's waterlilies with endless groups posing and grinning in front.

It feels great to read all your kind comments. Thank you!

john183 - I'm very happy you found my TR

stokebailey - in all seriousness, the Japanese seem to NEED to have a photo of everything.

latedaytraveler - that's the book. My daughter certainly agrees with you. She says she's enjoying reading about a different side to the Duchess of Windsor (she'd read a bit before in Women of Windsor) but that she still finds her very unlikeable.

Day 7
This was our last full day in London. It was nice, though, the time didn't fly by. We enjoyed each day and looked forward to the next. I think planning things out and having a list of must-sees helped with this a lot.

I woke up early (EVERY day of the trip) but let my daughter "sleep in" until 9:15a. We left the hotel by 10. Bought 3 postcard stamps at the p.o. around the corner, with the idea of sending off postcards we'd bought at Highclere the day before. We never got around to writing them, though, so the 3 stamps are little souvenirs.

We had a leisurely breakfast at Le Pain Quotidien. Pain au chocolat and a side order of ham for my daughter, with a pot of tea. And "porridge with stewed fruit" http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/f0b48c38.jpg (which was absolutely divine. I'm going to try and replicate it this weekend at home.) and a giant cappuccino for me http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/225aee62.jpg

By 11a we were on the tube, headed to Tower Bridge. I wanted to travel to our furthest point and then work our way back. We'd seen the bridge from a distance from the Millenium Bridge but I wanted to walk onto it and really see it (and take photos).

At this point we had one day left and I had several items on my To Do list that I was trying to "get done" and, although Tower of London was at the top of the list, due to recommendations and guide books, I just couldn't get excited about visiting it. I'm not sure why. I asked my daughter about it and she wasn't really interested either. I thought she might be eager to see the Crown Jewels but she said what she was really interested in were the tiaras which are in the Queen's personal collection and not part of the Crown Jewels. Looks like she'd done a bit of research after all.
**I've just read that the Queen's "best diamonds" and 80 dresses are now on display at Buckingham Palace (which was not open during our visit), through Sept. 24.

Anyway, I know The Tower is extremely popular and that we would've enjoyed it and learned a lot but we decided not to go. I went out of my way to ride the London Eye but didn't visit the Tower. Call me crazy. Maybe next time. We did go into its shop after visiting Tower Bridge and before getting my daughter some Cornish ice cream
A few other things we didn't get to were: Windsor Castle, Queen Mary's Garden in Regent's Park, Tate Britain, Borough Market and the British Library.

I can't remember what my plan was, but after the Tower Bridge area, I think we took the tube to the St. James's Park station and then spent a bit of time figuring out which way to go. I think my original intent was to see Buckingham Palace from the back. From the Palace Gardens. But we never made it. Ended up at a/the Buckingham Palace shop and then went to the Royal Mews across the street. We were happy to visit - it was very relaxed and such a treat to see the truly over-the-top Gold State Coach http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/c364b12f.jpg and, of course, the Glass Coach http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/53dc17a4.jpg which carried Diana to St. Paul's on her wedding day.

In the shop we watched a video that was playing of Queen Elizabeth's 1953 coronation. We were spellbound.

http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/f98a40ec.jpg

We walked past Buckingham Palace again, this time getting much closer. It was surreal to see "the balcony"
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/62ea1042.jpg and, of course, the guards.

Walked into Green Park (how I love the parks with their gorgeous trees http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/7b6838fc.jpg ),
ducking out behind Clarence House area and then walking up St. James's St. Decided to take tube from Green Park station to Covent Garden, as we'd hardly explored this area. Exited CG station to a light rain and ducked into The White Lion pub (had not yet visited a pub!) and had a really nice late lunch. Very sweet guy running the upstairs dining room by himself.

http://www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk/thewhitelioncoventgardenlondon/
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/6a9a2de5.jpg
Of course, we ordered
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/76b4ef8c.jpg Fish & Chips and
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/402e53d8.jpg Bangers and Mash
The food and service were both really good.
With ginger beer and Pepsi w/ lime it was £25.10 + tip.

Walked to the National Portrait Gallery (yet again) and got in at 4:30, just in time to see the Queen: Art and Image exhibition (believe they stopped letting people in for this at 5pm). Enjoyed it a lot. It definitely allowed us to look at the Queen in a different way.

I can't remember what we did next but we probably stopped for coffee and possibly cake and then took a roundabout tube trip to The Globe.

We had tickets to "Taming of the Shrew" there at 7:30p. I'd ordered the tickets on April 30th and had not been able to get any seats together that looked good. So I bought seats one behind the other and it worked out great. I'd had to do this in NYC before and didn't think it would be a problem.

We were in Bay G, Lower Gallery
in rows D and E
£39.00 per ticket. They were great seats.

Also bought cushion vouchers at £1.00 each
and one program, for £4.00

We LOVED the show and adored the venue. It was like going to a big party (in a good way). My daughter declared it the best part of the trip. She took a course last summer called "Shakesperience" and is familiar with many of his works. She's a lover of drama. And comedy. And English males So, she was in Paradise!
The play was so funny and the actors were fanTAStic! We really, really enjoyed it and I encourage anyone and everyone to see a play at The Globe. I think it's considered a very touristy kind of thing to do but I must say, I think it'd be a very fun, worthwhile experience for anyone.
And I love the set-up, with food and drink for sale outside, etc. Wish we'd had time to visit the shop. I need to check it out on-line.

Before: http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/7401711d.jpg
After: http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/6db7456e.jpg
(no photography allowed during the show. And I watched 2 different people get busted who were snapping away merrily - w/ flash!)

We walked across Southwark Bridge and were on tube at Mansion House station before 11pm. Got to the hotel and I packed about halfway for the next day's departure. Was up early to finish the job.

A day of random sightseeing and a play at The Globe was truly a wonderful last day in London. We SHALL return!

P.S. I may sometimes look silly constantly taking pics with my iPhone. But it's tough to beat the iPad crowd. You've got to love this guy. Look at the intensity
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/1004ab3e.jpg

john183 - I forgot to say "thank you" and that your TRs were some of my very favorites

>>But it's tough to beat the iPad crowd<<

I can see them becoming quite a nuisance, as more and more people wave a damn great slab in the middle of everyone else's view.

Glad you enjoyed your time in London: and you can always come back again for the things you missed.

"I think my original intent was to see Buckingham Palace from the back. From the Palace Gardens. But we never made it."

Good thing you didn't waste the time trying. One can't see the back of the Palace or the gardens . . . unless one is IN the gardens. The Mews were as close as you could get - a huge wall encircles the entire complex. . (You can get a glimpse from the top floor restaurant/cocktail lounge of the London Hilton and a few other places)

The Duke of Windsor wrote a lovely graceful memoir called A King's Story. Our local library had an old edition, but it seems to have been later published in paperback.

latedaytraveler - this is for you (my daughter found it on tumblr and sent it to me.) http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/f667383e.jpg

Thank you for mentioning that book, stokebailey. I'll look it up

janisj - Thanks for the info. Now I KNOW I made the right decision not to go

Thanks patricklondon. We will definitely return to London before too long. We really, really loved it.

Lantana LOL – what a pic! I guess at the end that the Duke and Duchess would do anything for attention.

Both were obsessed with staying slim though.
Please thank your daughter.

PS Sometimes it takes so long to download a link of Fodors, eh?

Day 8 Leaving London; headed to Paris

I finished packing and we checked out, saying goodbye to our adorable hotel http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/83e7fbf6.jpg
We enjoyed Number Sixteen very much and I would certainly stay there again. I really liked the neighborhood. I think staying here had a lot to do with how much we loved London. It was village-y somehow. Not at all overwhelming. I loved our little tube station http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/510-1.jpg
We went one last time to the Starbucks around the corner and then at 9:20 were on tube to St. Pancras. Thanks to Fodors tips, I turned in my Oyster cards and got cash refunds of £6.60 each. So, thanks

Today we took the Eurostar to Paris. I bought our tickets in March, a couple of days after they went on sale, 120 days out. I used www.seat61.com to learn which seats to book (definitely wanted forward facing and window seats). GREAT resource.
Our one-way, London to Paris tickets cost $216 USD total.

We had plenty of time for our 11:30 train. We shopped a bit for gifts for friends we'd be seeing in Paris - such as these lovely tins of shortbread http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/ad4420c89dd111e1b9f1123138140926_7.jpg - and for lunch. I got a nice salad at Marks & Spencer, and my daughter got a sandwich. I also got some fab "Welsh Cakes", which I will be hunting down asap http://s883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/?action=view&current=welshcakes.jpg (this is not my photo, I found it in a google images search) and then checked in for our train (scanned printed tickets; security; passports) and took a seat. http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/bef70e32.jpg I went and bought 3 carnets of metro tickets as well (for my mom, my daughter and me). That was a nice tip I'd learned here on Fodors. It also helped to eat up my remaining ££.
When they called for boarding of our train there was a mad rush. But we easily found our car and our seats and settled in. I thought it was very comfortable and nice. We left precisely on time, at 11:31a.
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/13f5d993.jpg

We arrived at Gare du Nord at 14:41

I wish I'd taken more notes on this day. I remember we got to GdN and followed signs to RER B. I knew what to look for but it still was a wee bit confusing. I'd read about there being lots of pickpockets at the station and told my daughter we needed to look like we knew what we were doing and where we were going

Getting on the train was a bit of a shock, as we boarded what was basically a cattle car. No seats and very few handles/rails. But we were happy to be on a train heading in the right direction.
When we got off at St. Michel it was not St. Michel-Notre Dame, as I'd expected, but St. Michel (at the corner of Blvd. Saint-Michel and Blvd. Saint-Germain) Probably equidistant from hotel (only a couple of blocks) but we didn't walk out and see Notre Dame as I'd thought we would. It was nice that there was a sign pointing the direction of St. Séverin, as our hotel was directly across the street from this church. As we walked to our hotel, we couldn't help but compare Paris to London and were having a bit of a culture shock, my daughter especially. Just the underground/métro differences were a bit jarring. But the cafés full of patrons were festive and we were grateful for the boulevard's wide sidewalks and for the sunny skies.

We checked into our hotel, and there was a note for us at the front desk from my mom, giving us her room number and asking us to come by her room once we'd settled in. She'd been there for a couple of days already with my godmother, who had joined her from Switzerland. They had a room on the first floor which I must say was quite dark and grim. They liked it just fine and had been napping after a long day of touring. They'd gone to the Marmottan (which they raved about) and had enjoyed a fabulous lunch at Les Deux Magots - Croque Monsieurs slathered w/ foie gras, they said

I was thrilled to learn I'd gotten the room I'd requested. Room 601. I'd read tons of reviews on Trip Advisor and knew that only one of the hotel's triples had a view of St.-Séverin and that it also had a distant view of the Eiffel Tower. I'd requested this room back in Feb. but knew it was not guaranteed. The room was great. I loved having 3 twin beds and I loved the views. Not only did we have the aforementioned views http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/c02365d0.jpg from the front window but from a balcony off the back we had peeks of Notre Dame's towers and spire! http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/d36fae11.jpg and down into a tiny courtyard http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/faffc142.jpg

Our triple room was €230 per night. As busy and touristy as the location was (and I knew it would be - I'd read many, many reviews and also my Parisian friend had driven by it and forewarned me) it really was a nice place and a quiet hotel. The room had heavy duty sound-proof windows b/c when they were closed, we heard nothing. However, the weather was really nice and we wanted the windows open most days (and nights). Sounds from the street were at times deafening, which made us laugh out loud more than once. Such crashing about, maniacal motorcycle engines, trucks, smashing glass, etc. Didn't bother us in general but seemed really hilarious and I knew some people would be furious. I'm not complaining, mind you. All we had to do was close the windows to solve the problem.
After our tiny (but higher end) accomodations in London, we did appreciate the relatively spacious room and bathroom at Henri IV RG. The room felt spacious, even once my mom joined us the next day, when my godmother returned home. The bathroom was simple bur very roomy. And I'm asking Santa for a towel warmer. Absolutely a must for me now (and did double-duty driving hand-washed clothes)

We had plans to go to the home of some dear friends that first night. My mother grew up in and around Paris - in Saint-Germain-en-Laye as a child and later in Passy (16th arrondissement?) - One of her childhood friends lives in Courbevoie with his partner and they have visited us in the US many times over the years. They're wonderful, fun, funny, generous people and it was such a treat to have dinner in their beautiful home. They really spoiled us.

So - we walked to Châtelet, passing by Notre Dame for the first of many times. http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/236bf58b.jpg It was a treat to get to see her so often. Shamefully, we never went up. We never even went in! Left it until too late and when my daughter and I walked by on our last day, the lines were too much for us. Will have to save a visit inside and to the top until next time.
We took métro from Châtelet to Pont de Neuilly (Line 1, direction La Défense) and they picked us up there (while we waited I caught my first glimpse of the Arc de Triomphe, way off in the distance http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/fad4ba6b.jpg ) and we drove to their house. I LOVED where they lived and might need to ask to stay with them next time I like to have my own space and my own schedule when I travel but their home and little town would be well worth any sacrifice.

We had drinks in their garden and a delightful dinner (including a cheese course to die for and delicious apricot tart - something else I need to try and duplicate at home.) It was a delightful evening and so great to catch up with them. After midnight, they drove us back to our hotel, taking what must've been the scenic route http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/5d79dce4.jpg http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/a128105c.jpg
FUN first evening in beautiful Paris.

Thanks latedaytraveler. And I'm sorry if some of my links take a long time for you

Cheese course and apricot tart. Now you're speaking my language.

I hear ya Nikki....never too much cheese.

Glad you got the room you wanted lantana! I love Paris!

thanks for sharing the story of a wonderful trip! I enjoyed reading it.

I am really enjoying your report. I like the way you describe things and I like the way you put links to the photos in your report so I can click on it and see exactly what you are describing. Can't wait to read more.

It is too bad that you did not climb to the top of Notre Dame but that will now be a priority on your next trip to Paris when you stay with your friends, right?

We are on our annual family beach vacation this week so I'm looking forward to reading your report in more detail once we get back home.

Hi Lantana,

Just read your above account. Glad you settled in so nicely.
What a wonderful treat to be dinner guests at your relatives in the 16th. From what I have read, it is one of the most exclusive digs in Paris. I observed this closely when I went to the Marottan-Monet.

They had a beautiful garden on the property that was not accessible to museum goers, but looking out the window, I could see some very high rent properties all around it – with those fabulous French windows and drapes.

Excellent report…

t

Thank you Nikki, denisea and irishface

john183 - thank you for your kind comments and have a great time at the beach!

latedaytraveler - the friends we had dinner with live out in the suburbs of Paris. In Courbevoie.
My mom lived the 16th when she was a teenager But we were very lucky to be entertained by French friends in their own own homes. Such a treat.

Oh, fun, lantana. What a primo view from your hotel. I'm glad to have the rail info link, too.

Where at St. Pancras can you buy the carnets?

I'm really enjoying your trip report. We will be "over there" next month!

Thank you for sharing. I agree you get so much information from trip reports.

Lantana
Really enjoying your trip report. Look forward to more

stokebailey - thanks. The métro tix can be purchased once you're inside the Eurostar "lounge". There was a sign, I believe. It was on the far right of the waiting area.

ausie_10 You must be so excited for your trip! I'll look for your TR

Thank you, chutney

Lantana I don't want your report to end. It is such a pleasure to read along with all the pictures. Any pictures of your friend's place? We will be in London and Paris Sep. and Oct. Looking forward to read about your dining experiences in Paris.

Day 9, Friday July 21

We woke up and walked around the corner to a café across from Notre Dame for a late breakfast. We had an adorable server who brought us luscious chocolat chaud, café crème, yogurt, croissants and eggs.

Walked through the Square René Viviani (which I had learned through a Rick Steves podcast was home to the "oldest tree in Paris".) Here's a pic of part of it, with ND in background http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/b3c36eb4.jpg This was something fun to point out to my mom, who's an avid gardener. She couldn't believe the little things I'd learned in my research This little park is right next to the Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre church. Shakespeare & Co. bookstore is right in this area as well and we returned later in the trip b/c my daughter wanted to get a particular book (along w/ their famous stamp) for a teacher.

We walked to the Musée de Cluny http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/878c2f78.jpg , which was only 4 blocks away. We walked around the nice herb garden outside and there were several groups of people enjoying their lunch. My daughter was surprised to see a young couple kissing over their Big Macs and fries

We entered the museum and I purchased my 6-day Museum Pass and audioguides for my daughter and me. They held my driver's license until I ret'd the audioguide. I was surprised. Anyway, we enjoyed the museum. I'm sure my daughter was bored by much of it but she enjoyed several things, including the tapestries ("Desire" was not on display, unfortunately). My mom couldn't get over the detail in the dresses in the tapestries.

I really loved the ruins of the Roman baths and how they're incorporated into the museum - and am fascinated by the heads and bodies of the statues that were once on Notre Dame. http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/95b7cb35.jpg (for those who don't know, the audioguide said statues were removed from Notre Dame -and decapitated - during the Revolution. Apparently, the heads weren't discovered until 1977, buried in someone's yard!)

After walking through the museum, we sat outside in the courtyard to get off our feet. There were children there with a couple of teachers who were on a sort of scavenger hunt. http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/928.jpg Suddenly, a woman appeared across the yard, pulling out a vial and drinking its contents and then collapsing to the ground. They yelled something at her and it was just so funny to get caught up in their play.

We walked to the Jardin du Luxembourg next. This was certainly a must-see and I wanted to rent one of the sailboats, which I did. Here's my boat! http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/44f56e0b.jpg I had so much fun with that simple little boat. (€2 for 30 minutes.)
The gardens are just gorgeous: http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/7054143c.jpg

Heading out of the park, in the direction of St.-Sulpice, I looked over and realized there was the Medici Fountain.
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/71b39698.jpg I'd forgotten to put it on my list but it was something I'd wanted to see. I'd seen several photos of it but read that it could be "hard to find". Not sure why it would be described this way?? But we loved seeing it and stood for a while watching a duck with her teeny tiny black ducklings, two of whom were wandering off and high speeds. Absolutely precious.

We walked to St.-Sulpice. I wish I'd read up on it and known about the Delacroix murals inside the church before I'd gone b/c we missed them
The church is massive - and very dark. But stunning http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/9048e6ab.jpg

We started heading back to our hotel at this point, stopping at some lovely shops along the way (sales were still going on everywhere). We also came across Gerard Mulot, which I'd read about. The shop smelled divine. My daughter says her pain au chocolat was the best she's ever had.

At 7:30pm I had plans to meet a friend. She is the daughter of
another of my mother's childhood friends and came to visit us in SC during several summers, starting when we were both 14. She has lived in Paris all her life and is currently living in the 15th arrondissement. She and her mom and my mom and my daughter and I were all having dinner together the following night, but we wanted to get together just the two of us. So, after work, she met me at my hotel and we walked and chatted and caught up on life. It was a gorgeous afternoon/evening (we had great weather every day of our visit) and we walked all over the Île Saint Louis, stopping for something to eat (YUM) http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/039441c8.jpg
at a café at the tip of the island, by the Pont Saint-Louis. Then we got Berthillon ice cream from the window of Le Flore en L'ile. I got back to the hotel around 10pm - it was still light outside Great evening.

Thank you, Micheline What a wonderful time you will have in London and Paris!

Here are a few pics of the house of our friends in Courbevoie
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/1597.jpg
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/875.jpg

I'm afraid my report really doesn't include any interesting dining reviews, although we did have a fabulous dinner one night at a club my friend has just joined on the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré

stokebailey - thanks. The métro tix can be purchased once you're inside the Eurostar "lounge". There was a sign, I believe. It was on the far right of the waiting area.>>

stoke - there is indeed a Paris TB information desk on the right-hand side of the eurostar lounge, once you get through security and before you climb the ramps/escalators up to the trains. as well as carnets, i think you can buy museum passes too, guide-books, etc.

there are also a cafe, and a couple of ATM machines, from one of which you can get euros - I don't know what the exchange rate is though.

Merci beaucoup pour les photos Lantana!

I am enjoying your report; nicely done--the planning, the traveling, AND the trip-reporting.

ttt

Thank you, Ann! I hope our connection allows just enough time to buy tickets and passes, lounge a little. Last time, going the other way, they allowed us to race up late and still board practically as it was pulling out. A first-train-of-the-morning fluke of security, thank goodness.

Fun, lantana. You did just the things we would love. I didn't know St.Sulpice had Delacroix murals either, and missed them, too. Is the old tree some kind of locust, I wonder?

I think they also sell metro tickets at the snack bar on the Eurostar itself.

Thanks, K.

stoke - we found St. Sulpice but also missed the murals, though we did catch the organist doing some practice on what is apparently a renouned organ.

something else you might like to know is that unlike at all the other London termini, the loos at St. Pancras are free. well worth keeping your legs crossed til you get there.

Thank you very much, texasbookworm. Your London TRs are some of my favorites.

stokebailey - I just looked it up and yes, the tree IS a locust

Day 10, Saturday July 22

At dinner on our first night in Paris, I'd mentioned to our friends that one thing I'd like to get to do was go to a flea market. They are shopping addicts who have bought and sold in markets all over... I explained that I wasn't looking for an expensive antiques market (although that would've been gorgeous to look at) but an affordable, typical flea market. They said that not much was going on this time of year (and this particular week) but that there was a market on Saturday morning at Place des Fêtes, and that they would meet us there at 9:30am. They gave me exact métro directions, which were very straightforward. So with this plan, we left the hotel Saturday by 8:50am to catch a métro all the way to Marie de Lilas, where we would arrive at the Place des Fêtes market. This was in the Belleville area, 19th arrondissement. It was lots of fun. We saw everything from cosmetics to prayer benches. We all actually found little treasures and it was so interesting to experience. I found a really pretty brooch for 15 euros; my mom got some exquisite tiny sterling silver cups. My daughter bought a great jacket for only 4 euros. She also picked out some books and an LP from 1975 by an artist named Dalida, which she loves I also found a tiny Walt Disney storybook for one of my nieces. In French, of course.
Just a few pics from the market:
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/aee6bcc1.jpg
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/8e649064.jpg
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/1009.jpg

There was a small park in this area that looked freshly spruced up. http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/e41b7c1c.jpg There were lots of families enjoying it.

When we'd had enough we stopped at a café for cafe creme and croissants http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/b705f0c0.jpg This is living!

By noon we were back in our friends' car, headed to Montmartre, where I wanted to visit Sacré Couer and my mom wanted to visit some fabric stores. Our friends had recommended Marche Saint Pierre and they dropped us off right in front (such service!). This area was heaven for my mom. Tons of interesting and affordable fabrics. She had so much fun and could've stayed there all day. The men working in the stores were very kind and helpful - and funny. Mom bought several yards of a gorgeous velvet - and even some white piqué. She's going to sew herself a nightgown She was very happy with her purchases.

When we could finally tear her away from all the fabrics, we headed toward the basilica. We were coming from shops at the foot of, and to the right of the large square beneath Sacré Couer. http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/72a14e46.jpg We walked up a large set of stairs and then took a path up to, I guess, the first overlook area. The walk was rather hard on my mom and she rested on a bench while my daughter and I went all the way up to and through the church. Well, at least we've gone and seen it for ourselves - and enjoyed the views of Paris from there http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/050-1.jpg but let's just say I think we would've done well to simply admire the church from a distance. Live and learn. (of course, going on a Saturday afternoon in the summer may have had something to do with what a madhouse it was )

Walked back down to Anvers métro, getting off at Saint-Michel. Right outside the station, we got the hot dogs I've read about in some Paris TRs. They were huge and soooo delicious. As we walked back to our hotel, cutting through Rue de la Huchette, I noticed a sign with a cappuccino on it and decided I'd like to grab one to take back to the room. As we got closer, I saw that this was Amorino, which was definitely on my list, to compare to Berthillon. (I MUCH prefer Amorino, btw) My daughter was thrilled to get ice cream and my mom was charmed beyond belief by the rose-shaped scoops. http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/1806.jpg We loved it and went every day after this. Their cappuccinos were always perfect. We loved that one of their flavors is Speculoos - something my daughter and I discovered for ourselves last summer in NYC. We also tried Amerena (cherry), Caramel w/ salted butter L'inimitable (hazelnut and chocolate) and nocciola (hazelnut); my daughter had a couple of their different chocolate flavors during the course of the week, as well. This Amorino is definitely the best thing about Rue de la Huchette I love that you can pick as many flavors for your cone as you'd like.

So - back to the room by 3pm. We wanted to rest before dinner. We were meeting friends at the Cercle de l'Union Interalliée, on rue du Faubourg St.-Honoré, a club my friend has recently joined. She'd given me exact directions and had recommended that we set out a bit early and window shop down this very fashionable street. Good advice and, even though we were running too late to enjoy it very much, the shops certainly were fabulous and we saw some great window designs.

The club is housed in a stunning mansion. My friend told me the British ambassador lives next door and that the residence of the French president is just down the street. This would explain why we saw many guards on our walk there.

Didn't take many photos at the club but here are several:
Divine amuse bouche of foie gras and fig http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/45fa670d.jpg
View of water glasses
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/ac8b696c.jpg
Checking out the grounds after dinner
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/aa8b0dbf.jpg

It was a very nice evening, with 3 generations of friends - my mom and her childhood friend, her daughter, my daughter and me. Very special.

Day 11, Sunday, July 22

We headed out to the Louvre before 9am http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/414fcfd1.jpg , arriving by 9:20. Unfortunately, it wasn't until then that I realized I'd left my Museum Pass at the hotel. Very unlike me as I'm a ritual checker of things like this. Oh well - it was in the safe. I decided that I didn't mind walking back to the hotel, so I left my mom and daughter there to get started. I enjoyed the walk and met them back there by 10:15 or so. I went in through the Carrousel entrance which I knew of thanks to Fodors. http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/1b3f1bfa.jpg
I had "the big 3" on my list of things to seek out, as well as the museum's two Vermeers, "The Astronomer" and "The Lacemaker", plus the Napoleon III apartments. We found everything we were looking for, plus a bit more in the process. Decided to exit at 12:30.
My favorite http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/4fe6c0eb.jpg

We sat outside at a table in some shade http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/00942c82.jpg and enjoyed coffee and some sandwiches from a Paul kiosk outside.
Beautiful day in the Tuileries http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/eacd2a5f.jpg http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/496dfd61.jpg
Walked over to Les Arts Décoratifs and saw the Louis Vuitton/Marc Jacobs exhibition, which all three of us enjoyed. I especially loved seeing the old trunks and 19th century fashions.

We then walked to l'Orangerie. It was here that we noticed spectators gathering for the Tour de France http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/7d6f525c.jpg . We visited the museum, which was absolutely lovely - the Lilies especially.

Next, we headed to the Musée d'Orsay http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/58674bdc.jpg , although we lingered on the pedestrian bridge there for a while, deciding whether to wait to see the cyclists pass. Glad we didn't, as - in the end - it would've been a 2-hr. wait! We also were happy to see this statue of Thomas Jefferson at the end of the bridge. My daughter's a big TJ fan http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/7955ce70.jpg

The Orsay was packed. But what beautiful treasures inside. Wow. I'd been here on my first (and last) trip to Paris in 1992 but have almost no memory of it.
Went to the 5th floor terrace to get cold drinks and see if we could see the Tour de France cyclists pass by. Waited forever but I did see them go by - 3 times (out of 8, I think). I got video footage to send my brother. It was a gorgeous, gorgeous day and I have to admit it was exciting to catch a glimpse of this race. http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/44a937a7.jpg

Walked back to our hotel via Blvd. St. Germain.
My mom went out later and got crepes with ham and cheese. Later, I picked up Amorino ice cream and cappuccinos. Restful evening.

Drinking it in.

You went to the Louvre, the Musee des Arts Decoratifs, the Orangerie, and the Musee d'Orsay in one day? You should get an Olympic medal.

Love Gerard Mulot...my fav pain au chocolat! Would love to sample everything in there, such a pretty shop!

Latana, I really enjoyed reading through your travel. I almost felt i was there. Great narration. I am also planning for the same trip in the first week of october. I have only 9 days to cover both the cities. We want to plan an economical trip. Can you please tell approximately how much budget is required to plan the trip apart from flight tickets. Please help!! Thanks in advance

Finally had some time to catch up on your report and I'm really enjoying it. It looks like you had great weather and a lot of really good food!! I wish we would have done the little sailboat at Luxembourg Gardens - looks fun! When we were at the Orsay the 5th floor was closed for renovation and I'm really sorry we missed it.

I agree with Nikki about the Olympic medal - the Louvre, the Musee des Arts Decoratifs, the Orangerie, and the Musee d'Orsay in one day? Wow!! I know you were looking so forward to this trip and it appears like it lived up to your expectations, right?

Thanks stokebailey and nikki

denisea - I agree - Gerard Mulot is so pretty. And the aromas... Ahhh

Sowmzs - good luck with your planning. For me, airfare and lodging were the two biggest costs. 14 nights in hotels adds up.

john183 - the trip definitely lived up to my expectations! It was wonderful.

I have a few more days left to report on...

Day 12, Monday, July 23

We were at a bus stop and headed to Champ de Mars at 9:30am and we arrived at the Eiffel Tower by 10am. It was a gorgeous morning and we gazed at TE and took many photos, http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/df97b926.jpg - then left. I'd originally wanted to go up to at least the 2d level but by the time the opportunity arrived, none of us had any desire to take the time to go up.

We then walked around the corner and took a bus to the Champs Elysees. I wanted to walk up the CE toward Arc de Triomphe, so this is what we did. CE wasn't as bad as I'd expected. We actually had a nice time shopping at a Zara and a Guerlain http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/1297.jpg and had lunch at Paul out on the sidewalk.

My mom told us to go ahead on our walk to the Arc and that she'd meet up with us afterwards. We did go and did walk to the top. I was very eager to do this - and it was well worth the effort http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/3d36f21f.jpg
Walked back, meeting my mom along the way and hitting the Champs Elysees Ladurée, which was currently closed due to a fire http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/cdeb6a39.jpg but was operating out of a small shop on the sidewalk. We bought a few to sample and my mom bought a couple of boxes as gifts http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/8a0966ee.jpg
Took métro back to Châtelet, where I decided to continue on to the Marais, an area I'd been wanting to visit. My mom was exhausted and my daughter liked the idea of stretching out with her book, so I ventured on solo.

From the St. Paul station I walked into a pharmacie, then a tiny clothes boutique. Next I ducked into a Monoprix, where I enjoyed looking at everyday things that French people buy, just as I might shop at my local target. Next was a lovely flower shop http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/cc26317c.jpg
I found my way to Place des Vosges http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/1344.jpg , right outside of which was a very nice boutique, Sylvie Guillon, where I bought a lovely sweater and a gorgeous, thin, light, dangly chain bracelet that I LOVE and am so happy I bought for myself ♥ There were some very nice scarves that were very hard to resist.

I headed back in the direction of "home", window shopping along Rue des Francs Bourgeois for several blocks. Great shopping and, again, many things were on sale. I'm not much of a shopper at home but I sure enjoyed it on this trip!

When I crossed over the Seine at about 4:30pm, Paris Plage was full of happy beachgoers http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/1348.jpg

Got back to the room and rested. We had tickets which I'd purchased in advance, online (€8 each), for Vedettes du Pont Neuf which I chose b/c it is the most-recommended of the river cruise operators here on Fodors. We LOVED it and I would recommend this cruise to anyone and everyone. As mentioned, get there early and get a seat on the top deck.

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We went on the 10pm cruise and it was perfect. Very FUN and easy - especially since our hotel was just a couple of blocks away.
Dined after our cruise on frites at an outdoor café on Place St. Michel and then back to hotel. Great day - and night
Paris, nous vous aimons!

Enjoying your report as we just returned from 2 weeks in France. Plan on writing a report, too. Regarding the Louvre and the Museum Pass, we went in through the Carrousel entrance, but were told that the line for pass holders was outside by the pyramid! So we walked back outside; it was very confusing because there was a very very long line for people who didn't have the pass, & a very short line (that seemed to blend in with the long line)for pass holders. I had to ask a staff member who was working outside where the line for pass holders started because it wasn't obvious because there were so many people around. Anyways, once we found the line, we walked right in! There wasn't a wait at all.

lantana - looking forward to more.....I know you probably have work and other obligations but hey - we're waiting here.... LOL!!!! Still really enjoying your report.

Great report. Heading to Paris in the spring and your report is a great resource!

>>I'm not much of a shopper at home but I sure enjoyed it on this trip!>>

I totally understand this! I'm glad you got to buy yourself a trinket - such a nice memory of your trip.

I'm loving your report, and appreciate you sharing the personal aspects as well. Three generations of friends is indeed really special!

Thanks for posting.

Yes! Fun to see the Plage being put to good use, and I'm glad to hear about the Vedettes. Thank you, lantana. Omit no detail, however slight.

I agree it's worthwhile climbing to roof of the Arc de T. (It was there I realized how leery of heights my husband had gotten, worse than me. He pretended to be fascinated by the museum inside.)

Thank you for this detailed report! Bookmarked for my future trip.

Sorry it's taken me so long to continue with my report.

Thanks Kwoo, john183, swalter518, YankyGal, stokebailey and Vivi004

Kwoo - how odd about the "pass holders line" info you got. Were you there right at opening? Maybe that entrance opens a bit later. What a pain...

stokebailey, very cute about your husband hanging out in the Arc's museum

Day 13
Versailles
RER C was closed/not running at the St. Michel stop. Too bad I didn't read/notice this beforehand b/c it messed up my plans and I made some poor decisions which affected our whole day. BUT we ended up on bus to Invalides and then train to Versailles-Rive Gauche http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/1424-Copy.jpg . Annoying to have to deal with the professional beggars.
Didn't arrive at the gates until 10:15 http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/1433-Copy.jpg and, even w/ Museum Pass, waited 2.25 hours to get inside http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/1448-Copy.jpg It was then packed going through rooms. This is what people warn you about. But I'd planned to get there at 9, not 10.

We lined up to pay for and enter the gardens but were tired, frustrated and extremely thirsty and decided to pull the plug and leave before seeing any of the gardens.
(At least we'd gotten a peek from inside http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/ac38/urbanhymns/1564.jpg ) We had been there for 4 hours and had dinner plans and wanted to get back to the hotel and relax. A disappointing experience. We'll have to return in the off-season sometime. Some of the rooms are incredibly beautiful, though, so we are happy to have seen those

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Then there are the modern knick knacks sprinkled in
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We were back at our hotel and napping by 3:50

Dinner with our friends in their garden in Courbevoie helped us to get over our disappointing day. (We should've taken them up on their earlier offer to drive us to Versailles!)

Hi lantana,

i am so sorry that you had such a long wait to get into Versailles - I don't think I'd have had the patience.

It won't help you to read that when we went in March, there was no queue at all, will it?

Hehe, yes I have read your post annhig! And that's why next time, I'll be visiting in the "off season". Something to look forward to...

As it is, I experience post traumatic stress when I look at the sandals I wore that day and also when reviewing the photos from that day

the downside of visiting in March was that it really wasn't very warm, but it was warmer than when we went 30ish years ago on one of the [then] 4 days of the year when they used to have the fountains going, when it was positively freezing. [i think that must have been in March too, though i couldn't swear to it].

I don't remember there being any crowds then at all!

Wow. I thought the lines were long for us last year but ours were nothing compared to yours. Versailles is such an incredible place - it really stinks that you didn't get to enjoy it like you hoped. But I like your attitude - next time will be better. Now about those sandals that caused PTS....I hear the best treatment for that is another trip to Paris. LOL!!

Great TR!

Wonderful trip report with so many links & photos. We are planning a trip to Paris for March and will try to get to Versailles then. We are not big fans of crowds.

Lantana
I've been looking forward to reading your trip report - and what wonderful photos! (I have been under the weather for a bit, so just recently able to catch up on Fodor's.) You covered so much ground and I have taken notes for my next Paris visit (The Cluny for sure). How fortunate you are to have a coterie of family and friends in that part of the world but jealousy will get me no where! Appreciated and enjoyed your detailed, colorful report. Thanks again for your comments on my trip report to London and Paris with three grandsons back in June.

lantana, I'm sure we were at the Louvre by 10AM, maybe earlier. Are you saying that we should have been able to enter through the Carousel entrance with our Paris Museum Pass? Oh well, it worked out anyways.

I am surprised you had to wait for over 2 hours to get into Versailles. We waited for an hour, which wasn't too bad. We had to take the bus to Invalides, too.