KarenW

Thank you to the many helpful Fodorites who helped us plan our trip. My sister-in-law and I accompanied my son to England on his way to his junior year abroad at the University of Leeds. We flew into London from Philadelphia and stayed for 3 days at the Rubens at the Palace Hotel on Buckingham Palace Road. It was a perfect location for us, as we had tickets for the Palace Tour the next morning, but it was quite expensive for the size of the room and the service. I would try another hotel next time, maybe in a different location just to try another neighborhood. The Palace tour was great?I definitely recommend it for anyone who is in London at the right time (just August and September, I believe). We enjoyed the hop on/hop off bus tour, and actually used our tickets for transportation back to the hotel a couple of times?very handy to be on their route. Another highlight was ?Woman in White? at the Palace Theatre. We intended to take a taxi back after the show, but there were none to be had, so we used the Underground. This turned out to be easy, with helpful people and clear directions. A London friend took us to dinner at the old Smithfield meat market, a place we would never have ventured on our own, but which I would certainly recommend. He preceded this with a regular historic pub tour around the City and a walk across the ?wobbly bridge? to the Thames south embankment, which was a lively street scene, for sure, on Saturday evening. The taxis around London were great, and not that expensive compared to just about everything else. London was numbingly expensive, given the dollar exchange rate

KarenW

Continued: We went north to Leeds on a Sunday. A very pleasant train trip from Kings Cross station, 2nd class with reserved seats. We met a teacher from Ilkely who actually knew someone who knew one of the Calendar Girls! Haley?s Hotel in Headingly (the student neighborhood just outside the Leeds city center) was a great place! The staff were friendly and helpful, with lots of good advice. They upgraded us to a triple and double, so we had at least twice as much room as in London?lovely rooms, all chintzy and cozy, with wonderful gourmet food in the hotel dining room and full English breakfasts (served, not buffet) every morning. We had dinner there the first night, but other nights sampled Bryan?s, the casual fish-and-chips place in Headingly, just a few blocks walk from the hotel; Shabab, an Indian restaurant in the center; and Leodis, a more elegant bistro place near the wharf. Couldn?t get reservations for 42 The Calls on our last evening, but will try for it if we return. We rented a car to drive out to Ilkely and Haworth, but decided that was a form of insanity for those of us used to driving on the right. We got the car back without dents or damage, but our nerves were shattered. Haworth was wonderful, however, for this Bronte fan, and so was the Yorkshire countryside. We spent two days shopping in Leeds, mostly for supplies for the college dorm. It?s a great city, with lovely Victorian arcades over the major shopping district streets, a lively street life, and just a feeling of prosperous, busy people everywhere. The University itself reminded me a little bit of Columbia, my alma mater?a city university, for sure, with lots of tall buildings close together, but with a few serene spots around lawns and older Victorian brick buildings. It seemed as though every Brit we told of my son?s plan to spend a year in Leeds assured him that he was going to enjoy the rowdy student pub scene there. They were right?there are no fewer than 3 different pubs in the Student Union itself, and the town is full of them, everywhere. (Ethan has been there almost two months now, has made lots of friends and is definitely enjoying himself, but ASSURES me that he is also studying.) I hope to return for a visit in March, and want to get to York and Harewood House next time, but not by driving there myself! We returned to Philly from Manchester. This could not have been easier?the train goes from Leeds right into the Manchester airport terminal, about an hour?s trip, with frequent service. I am definitely looking forward to another trip.

ggnga

Thank you. I enjoyed your report. I can relate to the shattered nerves. My son and I drove Edinburgh to St. Andrews and I do not think I would ever try it again. I have only been to the Cotswolds outside of London, but look forward to exploring more.

How wonderful for your son to study abroad.

kvadragon

Karen-

My husband and I planned to stay at the Rubens next May. Can you elaborate on what you liked/disliked about the hotel?

Thanks,
kvadragon

KarenW

Thank you, ggnaga. Kvadragon, as I said, the location of the Rubens was good, since Buckingham Palace was a big part of this trip. The public rooms are nice, too. But our rooms were tiny--hardly room to move around the beds. The bathrooms were roomy and attractive, but didn't have shower curtains, so we ended up flooding the floor every time. The concierge told me that train tickets to Leeds would be over 100 pounds each, but when I walked over to Victoria Station myself, I bought them for 50. So, nothing really awful about the place, but with so many hotels to choose from, I'll just pick another next time.