hazel1

I'm currently in the planning stages of a trip to northern Italy this fall. As part of our three week trip, we would like to rent a place for a week on the Ligurian coast, but not in le Cinque Terre. I'm having a hard time trying to decide were to base ourselves - I've gotten information on rentals in Lerici, San Terenzo, Tellaro, Portovenere and Levanto, but can't decide which town might be best to stay in. We would prefer not to have the expense of a rental car, but would like to be able to visit some of the other villages and towns as day trips, perhaps CT one day, Camogli (where I spent a few idyllic days of a honeymoon twenty-some years ago) or SML another day, as well as enjoying the beach and perhaps some of the nature reserves in the area.

Do any or all of these areas have frequent bus service to nearby train stations, or will a car be necessary? Any thoughts on these locations, and as well, does anyone have a rental they'd recommend in this area? Another question is how late in the season are the beach clubs open, i.e. being able to rent sun beds and umbrella? Is the end of September too late?

yorkshire

I've been to Lerici/ST/Tellaro and I think there is only frequent bus service in high season. I was picked up and dropped off at the train station in Sarzana, but then I was only there for a few days so I was able to walk where I wanted to go. There are ferries from Lerici across the bay though.
Hope that little bit helps. I did like the people I rented from quite a bit: http://www.liguriaguide.com/liguria-...breakfast.html
As much as I love the area near Lerici, I think Levanto/Portovenere may be more convenient--and that was you can visit everywhere.
Hopefully zeppole will chime in--s/he is a local and always a good source of info.

hazel1

Thanks, yorkshire - that link was one of the sources I've looked at for an apt. Which one did you rent and what did you think of it?

zoecat

Without a car, I suggest staying in Camogli. As you know, it's a beautiful town and accessing the train for day trips is easy. Depending on the weather, you can take a public boat trip to San Fruttuoso Abbey, between Camogli and Portofino. If you enjoy hiking, you can also hike from Camogli to the abbey. If the weather is bad, you can head to Genoa by train to explore for the day.

Lerici, San Terenzo, Tellaro, Portovenere are not on the train line, so day trips would be difficult without a car.

zoecat

I forgot you mentioned Levanto. It's on the train line and central for day trips.

yorkshire

I stayed in the b&b La Tata in La Serra--a village up a steep path from Lerici (because of the path, I could get down to Lerici at night for dinner and drinks, and my calves got an amazing workout!). The b&b was quiet, clean, and simple--nice view, too.
Lerici has some really great restaurants, Tellaro is gorgeous, and you can hike from Lerici to Montemarcello national park--you will see nary a person.
So, I really loved the area, but for a week I think you would want a car. That said, you could just also probably just find a taxi to get you to the train station and back, or only rent a car on days you want to explore.
http://www.liguriaguide.com/b-and-b-la-tata.html
It really just depends on if you want to be able to hop on the train and explore with convenience or to get away from it all. I'm sure it will be great either way!

zeppole

When picking a rental location, I would be wary on relying on a combination of buses and trains if you are imagining doing a lot of day trips, because buses usually stop running around 8pm, and may not have convenient schedules otherwise for connecting with trains. In addition, unless you are committed to eating at home every night, you might need to be within walking distance of places to eat so you can get home after dinner.

Even in late September, it is a good idea to plan around the idea of NOT having a car, just because it so hard to find parking if you take the car out during the day to go sightseeing in another town.

If you don't mind an hour's train ride to Camogli and Santa Margherita Ligure, Levanto should be fine.

Otherwise, Rapallo is ideally located for everything you want to do. However, Rapallo is a buzzy town, not a village. If you are looking for an idyll, Camogli has very few rentals, but you can dig around. Zoagli also has some rentals, but be careful with both towns that you are within easy walking distance of the train station and restaurants, not up a long staircase in the hills (unless you love long staircase climbs!)

Moneglia might work for you. Sestri Levante is wonderfully located, and while a town not a village, it is quieter than Rapallo. Finding a nicely decorated apartment there requires some digging.

I've actually never paid attention to the beach clubs. If the weather is pretty, they are sure to be open on weekends. They may even be open during the week. If not, for a week's stay, buying your own beach umbrella and min-chair isn't expensive, and if you buy at the seaside, you can probably persuade the store owner to let you stow it with him so you don't have to drag it back and forth to your apt every time.

zeppole

By the way, I should have added that Rapallo is not ideal if you want to go to Porovenere/Tellaro etc and don't have a car. However, you can rent a car in Rapallo for a couple of days. The rental office is right there.

That is also true if you decide to stay in the Porotvenere area mainly to go hiking and take boat rides to le Cinque Terre. You can rent a car in La Spezia for a few days to revisit Camogli (don't pick a weekend because of parking) and visit Sarzana or Castelnuovoa di Magra.

But time a car rental for weekday exporing, not weekend exploring.