Rebecka

... lovers of music that is!

From Amsterdam with its visual arts I traveled to Leipzig with its musical arts.

The journey from Amsterdam to Leipzig began on an inauspicious note when I learned that due to a medical emergency, my train had been rerouted from Amsterdam Zuid to Schiphol. Due to communication problems and a mistake in judgment on my part – it’s a long story! – I missed my train and had to take a later one that had me connecting though Hannover, Magdeburg and Halle. Not only that, but I had contracted some sort of stomach ailment that made the trip even more of an ordeal.

Frazzled and bleary-eyed, I arrived in Leipzig, Europe’s biggest railway terminus, at one in the morning. At least my hotel was only a short walk from the Hauptbahnhof on the Branderburgstrasse to the left of the station as you leave it:

A&O Leipzig Hauptbahnhof: Basic, but better than I had expected and very reasonably priced. The room was rather sterile, but very clean and so was the bathroom that even had a heated towel rack. The youthful hotel staff was helpful and the buffet breakfast (4 Euros) was ample with warm croissants, rolls, breads, cold cuts, cheese, yogurt, cereals and coffee and tea. Wifi can be bought for a Euro/hour and there was even a cash machine near the entrance. For a pittance I was also able to call my brother in Massachusetts. In short, I would recommend the A&O for budget-minded travelers.

One of the things I loved about Leipzig is that just about everything worth seeing is within the compact historic center. Although I spent 6 nights there, you could easily see the most interesting sites in 3 or 4 days. A short walk from the main entrance of the Hauptbahnhof brings you to Nikolaistrasse and the first major site:

St. Nicholas Church: This is where peace prayers against the arms race and the human rights violations of the GDR were held throughout the 1980s. It thereby serves as a reminder that Leipzig played a major role in the fall of the Berlin Wall. The lovely church itself dates from the 12th century but in the late 1700s, the interior was stripped of its medieval décor and a replaced with a pink and pastel green late Rococo style that is very pretty and unusual. Organ recitals and tours are regularly scheduled here. I attended a brief weekday service and was moved by both the beautiful music and the abiding spirituality of the place. St. Nicholas is still open to everyone and the peace prayers continue.

An eight minute or so walk brings you to:

The Gewandhaus: A kind friend gave me a birthday present in the form of fourth row orchestra seat ticket to one their Grosses Concert. On the program: Haydn’s Symphony No. 94, Elgar’s Cello Concerto inn E Minor, Mendelssohn’s youthful and spirited Symphony No. 1, and Carl Reinecke’s King Manfred Overture. Conducted by Gerard Korsten, the concert was a delight. Built in 1981, the great hall of the Gewandhaus has an interesting configuration: balcony sections run along the back of the orchestra, facing the conductor. I’m no expert on concert halls but I think this may be the first time I’ve seen this. A large organ dominated the front of the hall. I also found the polite applause following the performances without the customary American bravos and standing up interesting. Spoiled with all this great music everywhere, perhaps the Leipzigers express their appreciation in more measured ways? Anyway, I am always amused to note cultural differences.

To be continued ...

yk

Hi Rebecka, so far so good! I remember your thread asking about classical music in Leipzig, so I'm SO HAPPY to see your trip report.

Speaking of Gewandhaus Orchestra, I'm still weeping over the fact that I missed their concert in Boston last month (part of their US tour, led by Chailly). How great must it have been to attend a concert in THEIR concert hall...

Echnaton

>>>the polite applause following the performances without the customary American bravos and standing up interesting<<<

That is not typical for Leipzig but for all Germany. The audiences are very conservative.

Ingo

Thanks for the report. I hope there's more ...

A&O sounds like a good place for budget travellers. Glad to hear that. I attended several concerts in the Gewandhaus and enjoyed all of them. Even sat in the back of the orchestra twice ... indeed a very interesting experience. Was fun to watch the conductors. Btw, isn't the illumination of the Gewandhaus by night gorgeous? The huge fresco in the lobby that is visible from the outside?

Rebecka

yk, it felt strange to miss out on the Gewandhaus orchestra performing in Boston just days before my trip. Oh, well!

Yes, Echnaton, I kind of suspected that would be true about German vs. American audiences.

Ingo, the Gewandhaus by night is indeed gorgeous. I took a picture of it and it came out pretty well. Maybe I'll post it here.

Glad there is some interest in my report. I'll post the rest of it as soon as I get the chance. Upcoming highlights: St. Thomas Church, Mendelssohn-Haus, Auerbachs Keller, Grassi Museum. Just to keep you in suspense a while longer!

Ingo

There's definitely interest here, many Fodorites will just read, not comment (which is too bad, I got only a few comments on my latest trip report and feel like I won't post another one, btw).

This list for upcoming sights sounds very good. Curious why Auerbach's Keller was a highlight ... And believe it or not, despite my couple dozen visits to Leipzig I never made it to the Grassi (inside) so far. LOL

yk

Ingo - no Budapest trip report from you?

Rebecka, I agree that many people read TRs without commenting on them. This has been discussed several times in the Lounge and many posters admitted to that (reading but not commenting). Please go on; esp there are so few (if any) TRs on Leipzig!

quokka

LOL, we Germans find the American style of applauding just as interesting!

annhig

hi Rebecka,

I'm reading AND joining in. The Gewandhaus is not the only concert hall to feature seating behind the orchestra facing the conductor - you can see it in The Royal Albert Hall, in London for example. I'm sure I've been other places that have it as well, but I can't remember them now.

applause customs are interesting - here in the UK we tend to the rather more sober style as well; you don't get much whooping and hollaring. you might get the odd standing ovation once in a blue moon - or is that part of the audience hurrying to catch a train?

BTW, if impressed with the conductor and/or solists, the orchestra will stamp their feet rather than applause - do they do that in other places too?

keep it coming Rebecka - Leipzig and the surrounding area is definitely on my "do to" list.

CarolJean

Rebecka
Please continue! I am enjoying your TR very much. I confesss to reading all TRs re Germany but seldom respond. I'm sorry! (It's just my style - don't say anything unless you have something to contribute.) I'm interested in Leipzig and hope to get there this year.
Ingo - I read everything you post. I admit to being a fan. CJ

Ingo

At the moment it doesn't look like I'll post a Budapest trip report, sorry yk. CarolJean - thanks!

As for applause customs - it really depends. I've seen both really loud applause and polite applause. I recall we almost knocked down the house twice in Dresden, one was Gruberova singing Lucia di Lammermoor, the other the premiere of Rigoletto with Florez, Damrau, Lucic. Applause after concerts is more sober than after operas.

Rebecka

Thanks, everyone, for showing interest. Ingo, glad to hear you say that about "silent" readers. Sometimes these forums and social networks remind me of high school and not being one of the popular, cool kids getting all the attention. But I, too, have read many excellent reports without replying, so I guess it's silly to feel that way.

The rest of the Leipzig report follows! I apologize in advance for any typos, but I really want to post this and get on with life although I have really enjoyed reliving the adventure. A pity I can't quite recapture the taste of that chocolate so easily.

Rebecka

From the Nikolaistrasse take a right onto the Grimmaische Strasse, past the 18th century stock exchange with the Goethe statue, and you get to:

St. Thomas Church: I could not help but feel a sense of awe upon entering this 14th century church with its remarkable historical associations: J.S. Bach worked and his buried here; Martin Luther preached here; Wagner was baptized here; and Mozart played the church organ. This is also where Mendelssohn revived Bach’s St. Matthew Passion to Leipzig audiences in 1841. Stained glass windows honoring both Bach and Mendelssohn adorn one side of the church. The interior, which has undergone continual changes over the centuries, is in simple, neo-Gothic style, which would not have been the case in Bach’s time. However, the interior is still beautiful in an understated sort of way. I had the great pleasure of attending a motet where the famous Thomaner Choir sang. I could close my eyes and almost feel the flapping of angel wings; such was the beauty of the boy’s voices. On the program was organ music by Bach and by one of his gifted contemporaries, G.P. Telemann. There was also a sermon, but as my German is minimal, it went right over my head, alas. Statues of both Bach and Mendelssohn surround the church and there is also a bookstore. The nearby Bach Museum reopened March 21, long after my return. I regret not having had the chance to see it.

A five-minute walk from the Gewandhaus took me to:

Mendelssohn-House: This is the only museum dedicated to this remarkable, multi-talented composer who lived here on the second floor with his family between 1845 and 1847, and died here at the tragically young age of 38. I have developed a fascination with Mendelssohn and his music over the past year and so this was something I really looked forward to. While I can’t say there was a large amount of memorabilia, what there was did not disappoint. The house is in a late classical style and some of the rooms are tastefully furnished with either reproductions or furniture owned by the composer. The Biedermeier study and parlors are elegant in an understated way as is the pistachio-hued music room where I attended a delightful Sunday morning concert featuring music by Beethoven, Brahms and Liszt. Other highlights included the impressive collection of watercolors that Mendelssohn painted the year he died, and the famous Magnus portrait, commissioned by Felix’s friend Jenny Lind, the great Swedish singer who likely fell in love with him. Poignant reminders of his life include a delightfully whimsical travel trunk and the death mask that sits in the very alcove he died. Wall essays discussing the many aspects of the composer’s busy life as composer, inveterate traveler, conductor, teacher, devoted friend and family man are in the unfurnished rooms. There is even a binder with English translations for those of us who need it. Tip: Bring your “Geld” as they do not accept credit cards. While I may have my crush on Felix, you hardly need one of your own to find the Mendelssohn-House well worth seeing.

Another short walk and you get to:

The Grassi Museum: The Grassi comprises three museums: Ethnography, applied arts and musical instruments. I found the latter the most interesting, although I would have enjoyed it better had there been more detailed English translations accompanying the displays. However, the instrument collection is a must-see for music lovers as it is the largest and most important of its kind. Among the highlights: the oldest clavichords in the world, dating from the mid-1500s, and early instruments designed by piano inventor Bartolomeo Cristofori. Other rooms survey the historical development of musical instruments and there is even a recreation of an instrument maker’s workshop. My only disappointment was the absence of instruments owned by any major musical figures. Perhaps most of them have been lost in the mists of time? The applied arts museum provided an interesting survey of decorative arts in Germany, mainly from the 17th through the 19th centuries. I especially enjoyed the gorgeous collection of laces dating from the 1600s and 1700s as well as the exquisite German porcelain on display. (Would have loved bringing home one of those teapots!)

Museum of the City of Leipzig (Stadtgeschichtliches Museum Leipzig): Housed in the Old Town Hall dating from the 1500s, this museum provides an interesting overview with artifacts of the history of Leipzig going back as far as Prehistoric times. Worth seeing were the grand ballroom with its Renaissance décor and rows of portraits of Saxon royalty and town magistrates from the 1600s to the early 1800s that, more than anything, provided an amusing overview of men’s hair- and wig styles through the centuries. Not to be missed at the museum is the only authentic portrait of J.S. Bach by Haussmann, the old conductor’s stand from the Gewandhaus with its remarkable composer associations, a 1820s model of the city, and a famous portrait of Martin Luther.

Museum in “the Round Corner”: This used to house the Stasi (the GDR secret service) up to 1989 and as such, it serves as a grim reminder that less than twenty-one years ago, Leipzig was under the thumb of communist dictatorship. This warren of offices retains all the impersonal dinginess of the communist bureaucracy. Evidences of the indignities the Stasi imposed on its citizens are everywhere: wiretapping equipment, devices to steam open envelopes, cameras artfully concealed, and information about every resident stored on index cards, many of which were hastily and ineptly destroyed after the offices were stormed by protesters in 1989. Headphones with an English guide to the displays give a lot of information, almost more than I needed, but I can’t complain. I happened upon the museum on my last day in Leipzig and it provided a fitting if sobering bookend to my journey.

Other sites: The Museum of Fine Arts - a bit disappointing, not much art before 1900, although the surreal symbolist art of Max Klinger was very striking, especially his monumental Beethoven statue.

Schumann-House – after seeing the lovingly recreated period rooms at the Mendelssohn-House, this lacked any original furniture or memorabilia, but I can say that I stood in the study where Robert Schumann composed his Spring Symphony. Well, at least I think I did. Perhaps in this bicentennial year of Schumann’s birth, the home where he and Clara, herself a gifted musician and virtuoso pianist, spent their first four years of marriage will receive more attention ... and money.

Food: The reason I listed Auerbach’s Keller as a highlight of my trip was because by the time I dined here on a delicious meal of wild boar, red cabbage, potato croquettes and a nice glass of Riesling, I had finally regained my appetite. I also had better luck with tea in Leipzig, finding both a small café serving loose leaf tea across from a Starbucks (!) and bringing home samples from two teashops, one of which was in the big shopping center in the Hauptbahnhof. Finally, I found some delicious chocolate at Hussel, and the friend who picked me up at the airport pronounced them the best she’s ever tasted. She may be right. A pity you can’t order Hussel chocolates online. Most chocolate here in America is truly inferior, IMHO, of course.

A trip to the Opera, across the street from the Gewandhaus, to see its fine production of La Traviata ended my Leipzig adventure on a musical high note. Sehr gut!

That's all folks!

quokka

Thanks for the report Rebecka!

yk

Wonderful! thank you for the fantastic report and all the details!

Ingo

Excellent, thank you very much. The report on the Grassi sounds interesting, I'll give it a try next time. Glad to hear you enjoyed your time in Leipzig.

Rebecka

Thank you all for taking the time to read my report. I've so enjoyed reliving my adventure.

Apart from missing the Bach Museum, my other regret was not making to Dresden.

annhig

lovely report Rebecka, i love visiting musems dedicated to musicians too. your remark about them not having any instruments which had belonged to famous musicians set me thinking about Liszt's house in Budapest - which has not only his great piano, but also Beethoven's piano which was bequeathed to Liszt on Beethoven's death. It's tiny! no wonder poor old Ludwig couldn't hear a note.

Did you find out about the concerts in Leipzig in advace, or did you take pot luck?

DAX

Nice detailed report Rebecka. I'm impressed that you'd endure the long train ride from A'dam to see Leipzig. It's not in the travel radar for most tourists but Leipzig actually has a very nice comfortable old town to enjoy aside from the city's collection of museums & churches. It was a pleasant surprise the first time I went there that I decided to make a brief second visit last November. Thanks for posting your report.

Rebecka

annhig, that must have been amazing seeing Beethoven's piano! The only other composer museums I've seen so far are in Vienna and the most interesting one was Mozart's Figaro House. Beethoven's Pasquatilati (sp?) House was disappointing when I learned that it wasn't the actual apartment he lived in, only one in the same neighborhood. Waltz King Strauss's home was on a second floor, above a McDonald's. Yikes!

Apart from the Gewandhaus concert, the other concerts and the opera were decided on once there although I believe there is a Mendelssohn-Haus concert schedule online.

Yes, after feeling a bit like a zombie after my hectic Amsterdam days, Leipzig became a nice, relaxing change. And God bless that pharmacist who helped me get over my tummy trouble in time to enjoy some local treats including a "Leipziger Lerchen", a shortbread tart filled with almond paste and strawberry jam:

http://www.leipzig.de/imperia/md/ima...5_internet.jpg