blej

We have exactly a week to go before flying to Fiumicino, renting a car and starting our vacation. Thanks to a previous post, most everything is in place - just a few questions remain.

We will be at Agriturismo Santo Pietro in Coltodino Fara in Sabina for two nights; seven nights in Umbria just outside of Todi at Castello Izzalini and four nights in Rome at the Relais Fori Imperiali - a few blocks from the Coliseum.

Most of the questions are regarding the last four days in Rome:

The main question is - should we get a private guide for the second day? We've decided to leave the Vatican for another trip and would just like to get an historical and architectural feel for the city in the short time we'll be there. Would a private guide be willing to take us on such a tour? Its obviously very late to do so - but who would you recommend?

The alternative is to walk around the city with a guide book.

If there is one place in Rome we should absolutely take the time to see in detail, what would it be?

From Umbria we'll be dropping the car off in Orvieto and taking the train into Rome. We'll be taking a taxi or driver to Fiumicino to fly home. Does anyone have a driver they would recommend?

What restaurant in Rome should we definitively not miss for good food and which for a great view outside with at least good food?

What's the one dish we absolutely have to have while on this trip? Where?

Thanks.

blej

Just in case I sent inquiries to Francesca Caruso, Daniella Hunt and Marlene Sommer. I know its late and may have to make other arrangements.

mama_mia

Re taxi or driver: I have used RomeCabs and found them very good. Romecabs.com

Since you are staying at a hotel, you could also have the hotel make arrangements for driver or taxi. Taxi service has a fixed rate to Fiumicino of 48 euros--I think.

Re one thing to see in detail: Well, that depends on your interests, right? I could make recommendations for great mosaics (Santa Prassede, Santa Pudenziana, Santa Maria in Trastevere) or, if you loved Caravaggio, I would say head to San Luigi dei Francesi or San Agostino.

In general, though, I guess I would consider the Pantheon and the Forum important to understanding Rome. Read up on the Pantheon and its construction. For the Forum, I really recommend a guided tour so that what looks like ruins can take shape and have meaning.

And for me, cinghiale in Umbria sounds appealing.

blej

Mama_mia, thanks for the recommendations. We both like art, history and architecture - so those are definitively places to consider. But which one, if you had to pick one ( leaving the Pantheon out) would you pick?

kybourbon

>>>We'll be taking a taxi or driver to Fiumicino to fly home.<<<

You can take the train for 14€. Rome Shuttle Limousine is 40€ for 3 people including luggage.

http://www.romeshuttlelimousine.com/...t-transfer.php

Your hotel is a few minutes walk from the Forum. A bit further to the Colosseum or in the opposite direction from the Forum is Piazza Venezia and the Capitoline.

Also within a block or two of your hotel, St. Peter in Chains.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Pietro_in_Vincoli

ekscrunchy

One dish you should certainly try, not least because it is a signature Roman dish and because it is delicious and not at all odd-lookingn or tasting, is Rigatoni with Pajata. This exemplifies the traditional Roman use of the "quinto quarto." I mention this because you are interested in food (I know from your previous queries and reports!!). It is not as easy to find these days but you should be able to track it down in its place of origin, Testaccio.

Barring that, other dishes you might consider are:
Spaghetti alla Carbonara
Spaghetti Cacio e Pepe
Coda all Vaccinara (this probably also best in Testaccio)
Fried filet of Baccala


There are other signature dishes that you will notice on some menus, but they will not be in season (the season for artichokes and baby lamb, for example, is in spring) so restaurants will not showcase fresh local product.

ekscrunchy

Also, see if this thread is any help on the Sabine Hills:

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-near-rome.cfm

mama_mia

Your hotel is not far from the Basilica of San Clemente. That would be a worthwhile stop to see the layers of history that make up Rome. The basilica is a 12th century church, over a 4th century church, over first century mithraic structures. You can descend into the excavations and see early frescoes and the mithraic altar and a spring. The upper church has nice mosaics.

I like the 15th century frescoes in the chapel of St. Catherine of Alexandria by Masolino. The basilica also has a narthex (portico) and atrium (courtyard), which were common in early Christian churches, although not all remain today.

Check out the website, which is helpful in understanding the layout and history of the church.

http://www.basilicasanclemente.com/

blej

Kybourbon: Thanks. The train tip to the airport saves some money, but might add a bit more complication than we’re likely to want at the end. The limo, on the other hand sounds good. We will certainly visit the San Pietro in Vincoli, probably on the day we arrive as it’s so close. The others we’ll see either on a tour or our own wanderings.

Hi Ekscrunchy: I was hoping I would get a few suggestions from you. It’s been awhile since we’ve been to Italy and I’m counting the days. I can see your food tastes have far out-stripped mine; I might try the Coda all Vaccinara but Rigatoni with Pajata might be a bit out of my comfort zone – the others might very well get a try.

I seem to recall a conversation you had in one of your posts re: faraona al salmì and a restaurant in Orvieto. That seems more my speed.

I did read the Telegraph Travel article on the Sabine Hills. I’m not sure if I got it from your Jan ’09 post or somewhere else and then read your post. It’s from the article that I reserved a couple of days at the Agriturismo Santo Pietro and also reserved a table for lunch at Il Boschetto, in Fianello, on our way to Todi.

I do have a little concern re: our reservation Agriturismo Santo Pietro. The reservation was made by phone a couple of weeks ago. I sent an email and asked for a confirmation. I was away, came back and still no confirmation. I called yesterday this morning and there was only a recorded message in Italian. I went to a local Italian Deli, dialed the Santo Pietro in Italy and the owner was nice enough to listen to the message. It was asking for the caller’s telephone number and said they would return the call. He left my number and an explanation of the situation. So we’ll see what happens.

Mama_mia: We will make the Basilica a must. The multiple layers through the ages is just what fascinates us.

blej

Still no response from the Agriturismo - may have to make other arrangements.

ekscrunchy

Is it possible that they are on vacation the last two weeks of this month, like many Italians?

blej

It's possible, but as Italians vacation now, and this is an area where they come for vacation, I would think they'd be open. I checked Tripadvisor and someone left a post for a visit on the 11th. I called this morning - same message. I tried to send a fax but it wasn't answered.

I received responses from two places in Sabina that have rooms. We leave in five days. What to do?
What would you do?
I think I'll start a new post with the question.

I also got a positive response from Daniella Hunt and Marlene Sommer. Both available for a tour. Daniella has more reviews but is almost twice as expensive. I may go with Marlene. She will send details on Sunday.

what is your absolutely not to miss place in Rome? Or Umbria?

blej

The problem with the agriturismo was finally straightened out today - details in the "DILEMMA" post.

If there are any more suggestions or personal favorites, I would be most grateful.