Lake Como

Old Jun 2nd, 2014, 07:36 PM
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Lake Como

Hi,

My travel companion and I decided to add Como to our trip after shifting over plans and realizing we have an extra day. But we want to be back in Milan by evening to be able to go back to our hostels and freshen up and to be able to go to the Armani Bamboo Bar for an aperitivo and the Dolce & Gabbana Gold Restaurant for dinner & desert. The Armani Bamboo Bar aperitivo is from 6:30 - 9:00 and dinner at Gold is from 7:30-11:00 PM.

Is coming back to Milano Centrale by 6 reasonable? We are planning to take the train from Milan to Varrena, stroll a little, take the ferry from Varrena to Bellagio and have lunch and explore and then take the ferry to Como, where we will catch a train to Milan. We don't want to feel rushed, though, so can anyone recommend a good pace? We can always switch the 2nd night plans in Milan with this (3rd) night if it is recommended to spend longer in Como.
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Old Jun 2nd, 2014, 08:32 PM
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I would want as much time on Lake Como as possible, but I suspect my priorities are different from yours.

You don't say what time of year you're going, and it doesn't sound like you have any interest in sights beyond Varenna and Bellagio...

If you were going tomorrow (Tuesday, June 3), you would take the 8:20a train from Milano Centrale and arrive at Varenna-Esino at 9:23a. At 10:23a, you could take the mid-lake ferry to Bellagio and arrive at 10:35a. You'd have to catch the 3:45p ferry back to Varenna in order to make the 4:37p train that arrives in Milan at 5:40p. Buy the round-trip train ticket in Milan. Be ready to get on and off the train in Varenna because it only stops for one minute.

You can search train and ferry timetables for your travel date at these websites. Use Italian spellings and the entire "Varenna-Esino" name when searching trains.

http://www.trenitalia.com/cms/v/inde...0080a3e90aRCRD

http://www.navigazionelaghi.it/c_dow...TRO%20LAGO.pdf [effective June 1 to October 5, 2014]
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Old Jun 3rd, 2014, 12:38 AM
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I am desperately trying to remember the strolling possibilities IN Varenna. I remember that it is an easy walk (about 10 minutes or so and all downhill) from the train station to the ferry dock. You might be able to stroll from there along the lakefront to the "downtown" area where the church is but Varenna is somewhat hilly so be prepared for that.

In Bellagio there is also hilly terrain but I think a lot of visitors may very well confine themselves to the lakefront area and those stairways which go uphill and may afford access to other shopping, etc.

Take a good look at that ferry schedule. I am wondering if it would be easier to get a fast "ferry" from Bellagio back to the city of Como itself and then a train to Milan.

On the way from Milan to Varenna be sure to sit on the left side (facing forward) of the train for the best lake views which begin at Lecco.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2014, 03:45 AM
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Thanks for the suggestions!

We don't really plan to go beyond Bellagio and Varenna (this is what was recommended to us the most). We are planning to in the first half of September. So say that we follow the route you suggested, Jean, and arrive at Bellagio around 10:35, does the ferry from Bellagio to Como take about 2.5 hours, or am I looking at something else entirely...

Thanks Dukey! We don't mind it being hilly, we are just looking to take some good pictures there and relax a little. So we were actually considering taking the ferry from Bellagio to Como.

The options we seem to have are:
1) Taking the 3:45 ferry back to Varenna as Jean suggested for the train back to Milan.

2) Taking the 1:30-3:56 ferry from Bellagio to Como, which gives us less than 3 hours on Bellagio.

3) Taking the 4-6 ferry from Bellagio to Como, and by the time we reach our hotel and leave it, it will be close to 9. In this case we'd have to move the plans we have for this night to the previous night and go with the previous night plans (which is going to N'Ombra de Vin for drinks and then to Byblos for a night out around 12:00 am.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2014, 04:00 AM
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The ferry I took from Bellagio to Como City was an hour. I just checked the schedule and it's 53 minutes.

http://www.navigazionelaghi.it/eng/c_orari.asp
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Old Jun 3rd, 2014, 04:07 AM
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If yo like to get up that early to head to the train station, great. But my husband and I wouldn't get up that early in the morning to catch a train for a day in Lago di Como. I would plan to go for lunch and enjoy the view and come home. Lago di Como is a nice place to spend a week or a month goofing off in a private apartment, but it also fun to head out for lunch, relax by the lake, and go back to town.

I would also check out the possibility of taking the ferry from Como to Bellagio, and then coming back by train.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2014, 04:13 AM
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Can I also clarify that we have to book none of these tickets in advance, right? So that way we can decide whether or not we want to stay longer, etc, on the spot?
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Old Jun 3rd, 2014, 04:43 AM
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Jean, I'm trying to understand the ferry schedule. If I want to leave Bellagio early to get to a train in Varenna, Looks like there is one out 8:30 AM. It appears that it takes around an hour. That's not right is it?
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Old Jun 3rd, 2014, 08:50 AM
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From my understanding the 8:30 AM ferry from Bellagio will be Bellagio -> Menaggio -> Bellano -> Varenna, so it will be about 50 mins.

I don't mind waking up early, but we aren't going to be getting to sleep until 2:30-3:00 am. We have done this before and been fine, so 4 hours of sleep would be fine for us, but it would help if we didn't have to purchase ferry tickets earlier (not sure?) so that way we can decide how we want to spend the time.

Is my understanding of the 3:40 - 5:08 from Bellagio -> Como correct?
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Old Jun 3rd, 2014, 09:12 AM
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Pawleys, the passenger-only ferry leaving Bellagio at 8:34a goes to (in order) Menaggio, Bellano and finally Varenna. That's what the arrows mean. There are car ferries departing earlier that allow walk-on passengers. Car ferry timetable:

http://www.navigazionelaghi.it/c_dow...0TRAGHETTO.pdf

The fast ferry to Como can be an option for people on a tight schedule, but I don't find the ride very pleasant. Loud, slightly claustrophobic on the smaller hydrofoils. Sometimes the train connections aren't the most convenient. But the train from Varenna to Milano Centrale isn't the nicest ride either. Older cars, can be crowded.

LR220, if you decide to take the fast ferry to Como, your train will likely depart from Como Nord Lago (closest to ferry dock) and arrive at Milano Nord Cadorna. Depending on the location of your Milan lodging, you may then need/want to take the subway or a taxi. Include that time and expense in your calculations. Fast ferry timetable:

http://www.navigazionelaghi.it/c_dow...0%20RAPIDO.pdf
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Old Jun 3rd, 2014, 09:24 AM
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LR220, yes, the 3:40p ferry from Bellagio arrives Como at 5:08p. If it's on time (usually is) and you walk directly and quickly to the train station, you 'might' be able to catch the 5:17p train to Milano Nord Cadorna. (The next direct train leaves 20 minutes later.) I don't think you can buy tickets on the train, but I'm not sure. The 5:17p train arrives in Milan at 6:20p, but depending on your lodging location you may then want/need to take the subway or a taxi.

We've done the long, slow ferry ride down to Como. On one trip (in late October), we were the only passengers for most of the ride. It's a pleasant way to see the lake (esp. on a beautiful day), but it is definitely slllooowww.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2014, 09:30 AM
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I just checked and it seems like Milano Nord Cardona is next to Sforzesco Castle? That would make both stations equidistant from our accommodation, so I'm fine with that!

Does the fast ferry move so fast (like a small boat ride) that you can't really take good photos of the view?
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Old Jun 3rd, 2014, 10:12 AM
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>

If you mean the fast ferry from Bellagio to Como, it moves slowly and you will be able to take photos. It's a large ferry and it stays in the center of the lake and there are large windows for good views.

If you take the train from Varenna you need to buy your ticket ahead as there is no place at the station to buy tickets.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2014, 02:09 PM
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LR220,

If you are staying up that late the night before, and if your hotel is just as convenient to Cadorna as it is to Milano Centrale, you might at least know that you can catch a slow ferry in the town of Como at around 10.30am or a fast ferry at 11.00 am and still arrive in Bellagio in time for lunch! Something to consider about a visiting the lake is that the point is enjoying being on the lake, not being in the shopping towns (shopping is better in Milan). There is nothing about the towns of Varenna or Bellagio beyond seeing them (or finding a good restaurant in them) that would make most people want to rush up there. The look picturesque from the water. Some people go to the gardens, but many don't, and it doesn't seem to be on your agenda.

If you are planning on relaxing over lunch someplace with a view, then you should book ahead for a 1.30 reservation. You have said at least once in this thread that the point of the excursion is relaxing, so in the end you might be more relaxed if you knew there were some late-morning transport options that made for a nice boat trip on the lake, a table with a view awaiting you, and then a train back home in easy time for the Bamboo Bar.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2014, 06:16 PM
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Jean, thanks for the car ferry schedule. I' m trying to decipher It. Does the info at the bottom indicate that it is a 15 min trip from Bellagio to Varenna on the car ferry? And see Car ferry depart from the same dock as the regular ferry?
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Old Jun 3rd, 2014, 07:13 PM
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Squeeze in Villa Balbianello if it's possible!
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Old Jun 3rd, 2014, 07:22 PM
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Passenger ferry and car ferry depart from different places but they are very near each other. If you're facing the passenger ferry and the water the car ferry is to the left a couple of hundred yards.

The 15' does mean 15 minutes but the time varies if the ferry goes via Menaggio or Cadenabbia. If you look at the schedule I gave you can see the routing and see which departure times take 15 minutes and which take longer.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2014, 07:52 PM
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Thank you Sandra! I was unsure about how much time to really give each place because of the various amounts of information I've been getting, but I'm leaning more towards taking the slow ferry because I'd prefer being out on deck, enjoying the view, taking some nice photographs, rather than in the boat with glass windows. So if it's not necessary to spend more than 2 hours or so on Bellagio I'd prefer that rather than getting there and realizing I could have spent more time on the lake instead. The only downside to this it seems is that I'd have to buy the ticket from Varenna -> Milano beforehand.

deladeb, I was actually just thinking about Villa Balbianello! I came across this photoset and it's beyond beautiful: http://www.flickriver.com/photos/pet...7623876068954/
Would definitely love to go!
We are going on a Thursday, from what I gather it's closed on Mondays and Wednesdays?

This is the plan so far:
Milano -> Como (buy train ticket @ station)
Como -> Lenno (buy ferry ticket @ Como?)
Lenno -> Villa del Balbianello -> Lenno (buy boat ticket @ Lenno)
Lenno -> Bellagio (buy ferry ticket @ Lenno?)
Bellagio -> Varenna (buy ferry ticket @ Bellagio?)
Varenna -> Milano (buy train ticket in advance)

Would it also make sense to go to Villa Carlotta? I guess this would delay our plans to get back into Milan, so since we decided to just go to N'Ombra de Vin and Byblos, I think it will be fine?
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Old Jun 3rd, 2014, 09:08 PM
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You've got to suss out all the ferry and train times to see if this plan works. What is the latest time you want to be back in Milan?

The villas are not adjacent to the two ferry docks, so add time to the journeys between points.

I think the slow ferry + Balbianello + Carlotta + Bellagio + Varenna is a lot to pack into a day in which you also have evening plans. I'm sure you have the energy; I just don't know if there are enough hours. But check the timetables for yourself.

FWIW, I'm not a shopper, but I love wandering in Bellagio and Varenna. (We're usually there in October when crowds are thinner.) The views looking north from Bellagio are wonderful, but the views from Varenna (esp. early and late in the day) are my favorites. If you end up with any time at all in Bellagio, walk to Punta Spartivento ("point that splits the wind") where the three legs of the lake come together. There's a small park, restaurant and great views on a clear day.

http://www.ristorantelapunta.it/index_en.html
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Old Jun 3rd, 2014, 09:44 PM
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You buy a day ticket rather than individual tickets to the mid lake towns.
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