I've been to Budapest some 20 years ago and I'm going again this summer (on a trip that includes Prague, Vienna, Graz, and many more, but not Krakow - this time). Budapest is definitely worth a 2-3 days visit, it is very beautiful. Never been to Krakow but I've heard good things. I'll be driving between cities, but I am sure you can easily travel by train or plane. Perhaps check which one of these cities is more convenient for you, as far as travelling, and go there.

Krakow, Krakow, Krakow. Wonderful place. Maybe I'll get working on my trip report soon. It's one of my favorite cities; I've been there twice in the last two years and can't wait to go back.

I would fly from Krakow to Vienna as the train takes about 9 hours. Budapest is much closer to Vienna so the train would be best.

I'd recommend Krakow, too. It's full of beautiful buildings, which were apparently not damaged in the war. budapest is pleasant, but I don't think it holds a candle to Krakow.

Krakow. That is my vote.

I think it depends on what you want to see and experience! Based on my limited and long ago visits:

Krakow's historic core, which is original (it was not seriously damaged during WWII) is smaller than Budapest's and combines the charms of an Old World cultural center with the vibrancy of a college town. It's small art museum, the Czartoryskis Museum, has a wonderful collection that includes a gorgeous portrait by Leonardo da Vinci (but you probably won't be able to see that if you go before May - see the link after this paragraph). And if you are interested, Auschwitz/Birchenau makes for a very powerful and very moving day trip. I thought 2 days perfect for Krakaw - 1 for the city, one for Auschwitz. I believe other people add a day for nearby salt mines. (And having seen a salt mine near Saltzburg, I can understand why people would visit one!)

http://www.krakow-info.com/museum3.htm

Budapest's historic sites are more spread out, covering what were once 4 separate communities (although the main sites are in 2 - Buda and Pest). The city has an interesting variety of styles of architecture, and a much stronger Austro-Hungarian influence than Krakow (so it might provide as great a contrast to Vienna, although it is still quite different). From my perspective, an ideal stay in Budapest would include at least 3 days (but I like to spend a lot of time in museums, and that isn't everyone's preference).

The good news is that both have much to offer.

Hope that helps!

Both

Thanks to all for your good and helpful advice. Looks like Krakow is the winner, so we will probably go there, then fly to Vienna. Now trying to decide about a more specific itinerary, and whether to visit Auschwitz. Feel free offer more advice, especially as regards hotel (we're willing to spend up to &150/night), restaurants, etc. I will do plenty of advance planning with guidebooks and the internet, but I usually get the best information from fellow Fodorites...thank you all in advance!

an advantage of staying in budapest is that you can get the hydrofoil direct to Vienna, or stop off and spend a day [and night] in Bratislava.

having been to both Krakov and Budapest i would go for Budapest this time.

Thanks, Annhig. Why do you prefer Budapest?

Another vote for Krakow. I was in Budapest in 2010 and will not return soon. It was ok, but is not one of my favourites. The only point that Budapest has over Krakow is the closer distance to Vienna IMO.

Why do you prefer Budapest?>>

i felt that there was a lot more to do - really Krakow was a 2-3 day destination, whereas one could easily spend a week in and around Budapest. we spent 2 1/2 days in each, and we'd just about exhausted Krakow, [and that included a trip to the salt mines] whereas there was still a lot we hadn't done in Budapest. and it was a centre of an empire, which Krakow was not.

I'm beginning to wish we had time for both!

are you sure you don't?

I know that you want to spend time with your DS, but with a total of about 13 days [from what you have said above] you could fly into krakow, spend 2 days there, then get the night train [a proper night train I think, no changes] from Krakow to Budapest, stay 3 days, then take the hydrofoil up the Danube to Vienna for your last week. if you want to get to vienna a bit quicker, the train takes about 3 hours and there are loads every day. [for international train timetables, see www.bahn.de].

Again, thanks everyone for your help. At this point, we're finding ourselves a bit surprised by the logistics of economically getting to Krakow. Unless we fly Lot, the major airlines require at least three flights from Chicago. We have the time, so it's not the worst thing, but again we're seeking better ideas from others who may have done this. Thank you!

If you want to go to Krakow then look into flying into Warsaw as it's easier to get there from the US. You can then either fly to Krakow or take a high speed train that takes about 3 hours.

The Krakow airport is 20 minutes from the center; the train station is a 10 minute walk from the center.

About the number of things to do in Krakow: There are new things that have changed in the past few years such as the brand new (opened a bit more than a year ago) Krakow under the Occupation museum in the old Schindler factory admin building. It's a state of the art museum that is one of my favorites. The 1 hour university tour is great (need to book as it's offered at various times. There is a 1/2 hour tour but the 1 hour is much better. It actually lasts closer to 1.5 hours.

The Cloth Hall has been recently renovated and has a museum of 19th C. Polish art and on the same level a small outdoor cafe that overlooks the main square. The lower level features the excavations with lots of plasma touch screens. On the main floor are tons of vendors selling nice things. What I really liked about the vendors is that they do not pressure you to buy. They only acknowledge you when you ask a question or show that you want to purchase something. None of that in-your-face stuff that I hate.

The Salt Mine was incredible - that would take at least half a day to get there, tour the mine, and come back to Krakow. It's only about 20 minutes out of town.

You could spend an entire day wandering in Podgorze and Kasimierz, seeing both the Christian and Jewish sights.

I keep saying that I have to write my trip report so I can refer to it.

If you decide not to go to Krakow this trip please make an effort in the future - it's really special. I went to Warsaw, Poznan, and Wroclaw as well and enjoyed them all. The only place I didn't care for was Zakopane.

Krakow - And I would definitely do the Auschwitz visit. We actually rented a driver for the day, he picked us up at 7 and had us there by 8; just when it was opening. He was extremely helpful and knowledgeable. We also did the Salt Mines. Took the local bus and it worked out fine. Was very interesting as I had no real idea what we would be seeing there.

If you were interested in using a driver at least for a day-trip to Aushwitz (or elsewhere); I would highly recommend Andrew Durman. I believe he can be founds at www.tour.service.pl. We used him several years ago; believe it was about $100 (+ tip) for a day; and he was excellent. Great stories; information; he grew up in Krakow but worked in the U.S. for a number of years also.

I went to both Budapest & Krakow this past October. I'd recommend Budapest. The people are friendlier and I found it to be cheaper than Krakow (although I did find Krakow to be quite reasonable as well) food & drinks wise (and I ate at decent places). I was more comfortable aimlessly wandering/sightseeing in Budapest than Krakow. You can do a day trip out to Szentendre, small medieval town on the Danube. And it's quicker to get to Vienna from there.

Thanks so much everyone! We have decided to visit Krakow this time, and will probably go to Budapest next trip. Now we get to the fun part, making plans for sightseeing. We are considering several hotels, including the Trecius or Saski.....can anyone recommend (or not) either of these? Adrienne, I think you recommended Trecius, but it was a little noisy? Otherwise, it sounds great.

The room we had was on the street and there was noise which does not bother me. There are rooms across the hall and I'm not sure what they overlook but it must be a courtyard (air shaft?).

The Trecius is undergoing intense renovations and may be totally different than when I was there last fall. The plans were to put a ground floor reception and restaurant (not sure if it would serve more than breakfast). And to add an elevator.

Ask for a quiet room that does not overlook the street and they may be able to accommodate you. They are wonderful people to deal with.

In Krakow we used a local private guide for Kazimierz and Podgorze who was quite reasonable. Her name is Marta and her email is:
martachm7@gmail.com

We found some very good reviews for Crystal Suites, which is technically a small apartment, but can't find any reference to it from Fodorites. Adrienne, it looks like the Trecius might be closed for renovation until fall 2012.

We stayed at a small hotel called the Globtroter. It was one block off of the main square; but you entered through a long hallway and so hotel was actually off of the street. Hotel was nice; room was big; and exceptionally quiet.

<< it looks like the Trecius might be closed for renovation until fall 2012 >>

You're right - thanks for the update. I'd love to see what they do to it. I saw the basis of the renovation last fall - where the elevator will go and I know that the reception will move to the ground floor. I doubt they'll re-arrange the 1st floor sleeping rooms. Maybe some new curtains, etc.

I normally use the link that takes you directly to the English part of their web site so I missed the message about the closing.

"whereas there was still a lot we hadn't done in Budapest. and it was a centre of an empire, which Krakow was not."

Budapest was a secondary capital, to Vienna, in the Austro-Hungarian Empire for about 50 years during it's death throes from 1867 - 1918.

Krakow was the home of the Polish monarchy for over 400 years and the capital of Poland for over 500. It is the centre of Polish academic, cultural and religious life.

Size (it's population is about 2.5 times that of Krakow) may mean that Budapest has more physical things to keep one interested for beyond than 3 days, history does not.

Aramis, while I am certainly not the biggest fan of Budapest, I have to say this in its defense:

From about 1000 to 1526 Budapest was capital of the Hungarian Kingdom. Even when it was "only secondary capital" of the Austro-Hungarian Empire from 1867 on, Budapest was the capital of the Kingdom HUNGARY. Emperor Franz Joseph stayed in Budapest for several weeks every year, ruled from there. From 1918 on Budapest has been (and still is) capital of the country Hungary.

That makes about 600 years of capital plus 50 years of "secondary capital" (if you want to call it that).

Besides, in regards of culture - Budapest has been the centre of HUNGARIAN culture for about 1000 years, even though Pressburg/Bratislava was capital from 1526 - 1784.

Ingo - I don't disagree with you, but the reference to which I was responding was that Budapest, as the "centre of an empire", somehow superseded Krakow. That, I thought was a little misleading.