Krakow 2014 Trip Report

Old Mar 19th, 2014, 05:12 PM
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Krakow 2014 Trip Report

Greetings from Krakow, Poland

Trip Report March 2014

Hello friends from deep in the Eastern block of Europe. After 24 hrs. of travel, a minor airplane malfunction and an impromptu hotel switch- here we are! Arriving dreary in a valium induced hangover- brought on by airplane anxiety, Krakow greeted us with an overcast sky and a balmy coolness. A silent cabby drove us to our destination as cute, idyllic farmhouses whizzed by my periphery adjacent to oddly modern, and peculiarly out of place homes.

Our hotel which Frank had extensively researched – strangely misplaced our reservation with a computer glitch. As my ugly American threatened to emerge-the lovely receptionist explained, there is another room at their sister hotel waiting for us. Another silent cabbie, chauffeured us to our new establishment Hotel Kossak (http://www.hotelkossak.com/); a beautiful 4 star hotel overlooking the main epicenter of Cracow- Wawel Castle (https://www.wawel.krakow.pl/en/).

We are situated on the 5th floor, with expanse views, and all the luxuries one would be so grateful for after jet lag, exhaustion and the wears of international travel. We showered and took a heavenly nap as daylight drifted into darkness. Droplets of rain softly pelted the window lightly tapping us awake.

We explored our surroundings, walking down the wet cobblestone; eventually, leading us to the central hub- Main Market Square. (http://www.krakow-info.com/rynek.htm) Interesting architecture representing various time periods- Gothic, Romanesque, and Baroque served as marble landscape. We found ourselves in St. Mary’s church (http://www.sacred-destinations.com/p...t-marys-church) just by chance as a service was underway. We quietly sat down at a pew, as Military and State Police officers lined the church, shoulders touching, 2x2, 100 men deep. Unclear as to what was going on, we sat mesmerized, as the priest, in Polish conducted the service. An Operatic angel delivered hypnotic hymns as the crowd kneeled, sat and stood on cue. Still unclear the ceremony that took place, or what was spoken, it was captivating, unplanned and a complete unexpected delight. The church itself is from the 15th century and the altarpiece was an artistic, religious work of art.

The weather began to deteriorate at this point, windy, cold and rainy- but we were prepared for this and it did not affect our enthusiasm for getting to know this city. We found ourselves outside a charming restaurant Restauracija Farina (http://www.farina.com.pl/en/), specializing in traditional Polish dishes and fresh seafood. We had a very affordable “soup to nuts” meal – that was delicious, amazing service and a beautiful setting. Tulips and candles on candelabras adorned the cozy dwelling. Petite, dainty waitresses provided incredible service with impeccable English. I started with a creamy mushroom soup with a velvety texture and chuck full of earthy and hearty mushrooms and Frank had a seafood soup. Our next course was trout with crispy tasty potatoes and a pasta dish with fresh vegetables for me. We ended the meal with a tasty sweet desert. It was an indulgent meal, enjoyable and truly represented Krakow. We continued to walk through the city, as the rain lightly dotted the earth.

Love and tasty morsels of Polish Mushrooms~

~B & F~
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Old Mar 19th, 2014, 05:25 PM
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I love Krakow and thought Farina was wonderful.

A tip - don't use parens and commas and spaces for your URLs as they don't work with these things.

http://www.farina.com.pl/
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Old Mar 19th, 2014, 10:02 PM
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Here's a link to my blogsite....
http://edellsescipades.com/2014/03/20/dinner-at-farine/
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Old Mar 20th, 2014, 12:52 AM
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We loved our week in Krakow a couple of years ago, even with rain, snow, wind, and sleet pretty much every day of the holiday!
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Old Mar 20th, 2014, 01:57 PM
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Trip report Day 2
Follow site to blog... (Pics included)

http://edellsescipades.com/2014/03/20/day-2-krakow/
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Old Mar 20th, 2014, 06:17 PM
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I too loved Krakow and am happy to return via your report. Many thanks.
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Old Mar 20th, 2014, 06:33 PM
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joining in too.

a few years ago we went to Krakow in the Spring - which arrived with a burst of energy on the day before we left, but none the worse for that.

Concerts in churches seem pretty common in Krakow - we went to one which was to commemorate the death of John Paul II - it was an extremely beautiful and moving experience.
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Old Mar 20th, 2014, 06:51 PM
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Another Krakow fan here, happy to revisit it through your blog.
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Old Mar 21st, 2014, 03:44 PM
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Krakow Trip Report
Day 3
Enjoy!
http://edellsescipades.com/2014/03/2...-report-day-3/
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Old Mar 22nd, 2014, 04:15 PM
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Ok, Let me preface by saying firmly that Auschwitz Concentration Camp is no joke- not funny at all- and I would never, ever insinuate that it is. But, a funny thing happened on the way to the concentration camp…………..We will call this the Concentration Camp Kerfuffle.
Krakow Trip Report
Day 4
Let me explain…..Frank and I have been to Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp outside Berlin several years ago. It was an emotional experience for us both; it forever changed me. On a human level it was unbelievable and as a Jew, it was frightening. A couple years ago, we went to Dachau outside Munich- it was a similar experience. Being such a short distance right outside Auschwitz, I felt it was necessary to make this a part of our journey here.

If you are enjoying, follow link to blog website....

http://edellsescipades.com/2014/03/2...-report-day-4/
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Old Mar 23rd, 2014, 08:15 AM
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brookums - it sounds like you made a wise decision. We chose not to visit Auschwitz on our stay in Krakow but we did visit the Ghetto, see the pharmacy and the exhibition of chairs [so moving] and so on. As you say, these are very personal decisions.

Enjoying your account of your trip very much.
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Old Mar 23rd, 2014, 09:02 AM
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Thanks Annhig. More to come later!
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Old Mar 23rd, 2014, 10:03 AM
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We booked private transportation to Auschwitz and appreciated having the ride to (and especially from) in relative silence. I think I would have been bothered by your van mates too.

Never tried that weird pizza with ketchup that everyone seemed so into in Krakow.
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Old Mar 23rd, 2014, 10:46 AM
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Never tried that weird pizza with ketchup that everyone seemed so into in Krakow.>>

we managed to miss that, thank goodness.
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Old Mar 23rd, 2014, 01:54 PM
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Leely
do you recall how you booked the transportation?
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Old Mar 23rd, 2014, 02:05 PM
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I'll see if I still have the card, but I believe I just asked our hotel desk whom they recommended. Then called the company and booked a private driver. It was relatively expensive but going to Auschwitz and Birkenau was important to me.

Are you there now? How is the weather? One thing I loved about Krakow is how many of the restaurants had outside seating in their "back yards."

If you have time/interest, you might check into taking the long tour (about 60 minutes) of the Collegium Maius at Jagiellonian University. Very interesting.
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Old Mar 23rd, 2014, 02:15 PM
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Go to link for full blog and pics....

http://edellsescipades.com/2014/03/2...-report-day-5/

Krakow Trip Report

Day 5

Our trip is dwindling down, but it really has been amazing. I have enjoyed Poland thoroughly and feel we have truly absorbed the culture, the FOOD, and the spirit of the people. It is always good to go away and learn new things, experience new adventures and see how other people live. It is also good to return to reality, live in the present, earn money and then plan the next gig!

This morning we went back to St. Mary’s Basilica http://www.sacred-destinations.com/p...t-marys-church for morning mass. It was standing room only – a full house- all there for the same purpose. As I sat in the pew, with my husband at my side, many thoughts circulated in my brain. Listening to the priest‘s steady voice as it echoed off the ornate walls and the opulent ceiling-in a foreign language in a foreign land- I felt a total complete calmness down to the center of my being. For someone, who is at most times-in a constant state of anxiety and whirling thoughts and tasks, this serenity was welcome. In addition to the tranquility I was feeling, an overwhelming feeling of love enveloped me. I prayed for the people not as fortunate as I am who have financial burdens, emotional demons and are in crisis. It was a moving experience that left me tearful and very moved. Later as I shared this with Frank, he voiced a similar feeling and summarized it in a logical way that being in church (or however one connects to their “GOD”) forces one to slow down their thoughts, focus on the beauty surrounding you and take a deeper look at oneself. To summarize this experience, people ask me all the time-“why do you go to Church if this is not your born faith?” My answer is clear –in this whole paragraph.

After the church, we went on a mission back to the Jewish Quarter, to search out this famous ice cream establishment called Lody http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CNpLTl0hO5M apparently, people go insane over this. It is quite popular. The line was not bad at all, maybe 10 minutes. In the summer, it wraps around the entire block. With much anticipation, we got our ice cream cones- coffee flavored and blueberry. I was not overly impressed; in fact I favor Dairy Queen vs. Lody. Frank (I think just to annoy me) LOVED it. As the same as the Great Matzah Ball debate of 2014, this may follow the same course.

After the lack luster sweet treat, we made our way to Schindler’s Factory http://www.mhk.pl/branches/oskar-schindlers-factory which is actually a World War II museum called Muzeum Hystoryczne Miasta Krakowa. It was a very interesting exhibition that captured all the senses. As it takes you through events in a time sequence, leading you down claustrophobic dark hallways, confined cattle cars, commentary from survivors and emotional accounts of horrific atrocities. It was intimidatingly crowded with masses of school groups, obnoxious indifferent teenagers and multi-language tours creating frustration and congestion. But, once you get past these benign annoyances, it really is a fascinating museum that any person interested in WW II should see. Interestingly enough, Schindler from the movie Schindler’s list has not much to do with it, other than the site of the original factory. We spent 3 fact filled hrs. there.

From the museum, we made our way back to the center of the Jewish Quarter called Kazimierz http://cracow.zaprasza.net/kz/ . We ate at a traditional Polish Restaurant called Szara Kazimierz http://www.szarakazimierz.pl/en It was a beautiful restaurant (Michelin rated) with excellent service. I ordered the special which was White Beet Soup( not beets at all) a fermented (yes-fermented) vegetable soup that had hardboiled eggs in it. I took one taste of the sour concoction- and gave it right to Frank. He was having his own little strange feast with Black pudding (ummmmmmmmm, duck blood and a kasha like grain!) The next course was pierogis for me- which is essentially a Polish ravioli. It was quite tasty and Frank had a Loin of something or other. The sparkling water was more expensive than my dinner! The dinner was extremely affordable and other than the strangely, unfamiliar dishes to me, it was very enjoyable.

We rushed back to hotel for the evening’s event at the Philharmonic, the same place as last night’s symphony. We saw a symphonic production of a tribute to the rock band Queen. There was a small but mighty orchestra, a sublime choir and even a Freddie Mercury –like singer, with the addition of a strong Polish accent. There were 4 encores, an amazing “Bohemian Rhapsody” and a stellar “We are the Champions.” We had great seats and jammed out for 2 hrs.

We are calling it an early evening as it is rainy outside and fatigue is accumulating in my bones.

Love and fermented veggies…..

~B&F~
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Old Mar 23rd, 2014, 02:20 PM
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I checked. It was Krakow Direct. We called a few places because we didn't make advance arrangements and wanted private driver; this was last July and many companies were booked. We were happy with Krakow Direct.

http://krakowdirect.com/auschwitz_tour/

There is some inevitable cognitive dissonance because the camps have become such a big tourist site. I still think it is possible to have a meaningful visit.

Kind regards.
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Old Mar 23rd, 2014, 02:21 PM
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We had a great lunch at Szara in Kazimierz!
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Old Mar 24th, 2014, 10:33 AM
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Krakow Trip Report

Day 6

Last Day

Today is our final day in lovely Krakow. It has been a great trip and I have really enjoyed chronicling it. This morning was wet, cold and gloomy. Just as the same weather that greeted us-so it only seemed fitting to send us off with the same conditions. We went for a walk along Wawel Hill as the early morning dew settled on jagged rocks. Wanting to make the most of our last day here- rain was no deterrent. Frank made spontaneous plans for a tour called Communism Tours http://www.crazyguides.com/krakow_to..._huta_district

Our “crazy guide” named Peter picked us up, and loaded us in his Vintage Trabant car (aka- “the soap box”) – for our deluxe communism tour- a 4 hr. tour complete with lunch at an authentic “commie” restaurant. A bright orange “Mr. Bean-esque” automobile was waiting for us. It was entirely made of plastic with an engine of a fancy lawnmower that requires a cocktail of oil and gas to run it, that continually stalled and required at times prayer and finger crossing to restart (and some Polish swearing). As he drove, with me in the front seat and Frank crammed into the back seat, he told us of the communist history and the community which was the main subject of the tour- Nowa Huta.

Our first stop was at the only restaurant that existed during communism. We had some hot beverages and Peter described what it was like to live life as a communist. Although, he was only in his late 20’s his parents lived through communism and spoke of the struggles of the Polish people during this time.

The next stop was at the Steel Factory that was the main work source for the community. He told us stories with passion and gave us his spin, living life in Poland during communism. After the factory, he took us to an apartment (“museum”) that showed what it was like to live in a communist residence. He showed us a short movie that illustrated the propaganda that was fed to the Polish people. He served us several different flavors of vodka. Between the scratchy fabric couch, the entertaining film and the alcohol, I was thoroughly brainwashed and ready to sign up! (jk) It was very interesting and even more so persuasive. Of course, we all know how this story ends, with the fall of communism in 1989. (Mr. Gorbechev- tear down this wall!”)

Our last stop was at a government owned restaurant- to get an authentic feel for a “no frills” kind of meal. http://easteuropeanfood.about.com/od...ar-Mleczny.htm The restaurant is called a “milk bar”. It is homemade, nothing fancy, but wholesome food. There is no bathroom, no waitress, limited selection-but again- good wholesome CHEAP food. I wish we had found this day 1! Peter ordered us all potato pancakes in a creamy mushroom sauce, served with sauerkraut, beets and carrots. We had some “compote”- juice with it. All three of us ate for less than the equivalent of $7!!!!!

The tour was a fun filled 4 hrs. Peter dropped us off at the Galleria Mall/Train station where we did some light shopping. Frank had his first Starbucks coffee in 7 days. The cost of the coffee was half the price of our whole meal for 3 of us combined!

We walked back to our hotel, with a pit stop in the main square for some more shopping. We bought a beautiful, luxurious Polish linen tablecloth with colorful flowers embroidered and some souvenirs for the “peeps” back home.

I am ending the blog a little early as we will be calling it an early night for a 6am flight tomorrow back home. Krakow has been like finding a pearl in an oyster. Having been all over Europe, I had never considered Krakow. But, spending 1 week here, I have grown to love the spirit of the Poles. They are a feisty bunch, that have been on the fighting (and losing) end of many battles. Their history is vast; they are proud, strong, and independent. They are not Russia, they are not Germany- they are distinct in their culture and have strong traditions. The Jews live in solidarity with the Catholics, both so individual-but both have strong faith-faith that had been challenged them time and time again. For all these reasons, I leave Krakow with a renewed love and spirit for all beings. I will fight a little bit harder and practice a bit more tenacity- all in the spirit of Poland.

Krakow TOP 10:

10. Wawel Hill

9. Hotel Senaki and the wonderful reception desk!

8. Masses first night & Sunday AM @ St. Mary’s Basilica

7. Jewish Quarter Tour/ City Center Tour

6. Klezmer concert in Kazimierz

5. Symphony at Philharmonic

4. Schindler Museum

3. Communism Tour with Crazy Guides

2. Queen concert at Philharmonic

1. Horse and carriage ride through Main square

Love and all glorious Polish things….

~B&F~

P.S. See you in the fall-maybe Lisbon?

http://edellsescipades.com/2014/03/2...ay-6-last-day/
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